^^LCP 


lUiMii.  Kaannlnu  *  I'riniiiiu. 


NARRATIVE 


OF  TIIH 


SECOND  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION 


MADE   BY 


CHARLES  F.  HALL: 

HIS  VOYAGE  TO  REPULSE  BAY,  SLEDGE  JOURNEYS  TO  THE  STRAITS  OF  FURY 
AND  HECLA  AND  TO  KING  WILLIAM'S  LAND, 


RESIDENCE   AMONG  THE   ESKIMOS   DURING    THE   YEARS   18G4-'GU. 


EDITED  UNDER  THE  ORDERS  OF  THE  HON.  SECRETARY  OF  THE  NAVY, 

BY 

Prof.  J.  E.  NOUESE,  U.  S.  N. 


U.   S.   Naval   Observatory, 

1879. 


washi:n^gton: 

GOVERNMENT     PRINTING     OFFICE. 
1879. 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORMA 

SANTA  BARBARA 


LETTEE  FEOM  TUB  SECEETAKY  OF  THE  NAVY,  COMMUNICATING, 
IN  ANSWEE  TO  A  SENvVTl^]  EESOTJITION  OF  FEI3EUAEY  (J, 
1877,  THE  NAEEATIVE  OF  THE  SECONJ>  l<:XPi:niTION  TO  TIIIC 
AECTIC  EEGIONS  MADE  BY  THE  LATE  CAPT.  C.  F.  HALL, 
DUEING  THE  YEAES  18G4  TO  18(;t). 


January  14,  1879.— Ordered  to  lie  ou  the  tiil)le  aud  be  printed. 


Navv  Department, 
Washington,  January  14,  1870. 
Sir:  On  tlie  6th  of  February,  1877,  the  fonowing"  resohition  was 
adopted  by  the  Senate,  on  motion  of  Mr.  Sargent : 

Itcsolved,  That  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  furnish,  through  the  Superintendent  of  the 
Naval  Observatory,  a  narrative  of  the  second  expedition  to  the  Arctic  Regions,  made  by'the  hite 
Caiit.  C.  r.  Hall,  during  the  years  18G4  to  1869,  said  narrative  to  be  conijiilod  from  the  manuscripts 
purchased  from  the  widow  of  said  Hall  by  act  of  Congress  approved  January  215, 1:^74. 

The  Narrative  has  been  prepared  in  accordance  with  tlie  resolu- 
tion, and  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  the  same  herewith,  accompanied 
by  a  letter  from  Rear-Admiral  John  Rodg-ers,  Superintendent  of  tlie 
Naval  Observatory,  dated  the  11th  instant,  and  a  communication  from 
Prof  J.  E.  Noui'se,  who  was  directed  to  prepare  the  Narrative. 
I  am,  very  respectfully, 

R.  W.  THOMPSON, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy. 
Hon.  William  A.  Wheeler, 

Vice-President  of  the  United  States. 


United  States  Naval  Observatoijy, 

Washington,  January  11,  l^TU. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  submit,  herewitli,  tlio  Narrative  of  tln^ 
journeys  made  by  the  late  Capt.  C.  F.  Hall,  and  of  liis  residence  among 
the  Eskimos,  during  the  years  1864-'G9  ;  whicli  Narrative,  by  tlie 
resolution  of  the  Senate  of  February  6,  1877,  was  ordered  t<»  be  i'ur- 
nished  through  the  Superintendent  of  the  Observatory. 

I  also  forward  the  letter  of  Prof.  J.  E.  Nourse,  who  was  ordered 
by  the  Department  to  prepare  this  work. 

The  Observatory  is  indebted  to  a  number  of  scientific  persons, 
Arctic  explorers,  and  friends  and  helpers  of  the  late  Captain  Hall,  for 
essential  aid  in  the  collating  of  Arctic  information.  As  its  exchange 
list  calls  for  the  transmission  of  a  number  of  volumes  of  each  of  its 
publications,  I  beg  leave  to  ask  that,  if  Congress  shall  order  tlie  pubH- 
cation  of  this  Narrative,  as  I  trust  they  will,  provision  be  made  for 
placing  two  hundred  and  fifty  copies  at  the  disposal  of  the  Observatory 
for  distribution. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

JOHN  RODGERS, 
Bear- A  dm  iraJ,  Supcrht  ten  den  t. 
Hon.  R.  W.  Thompson, 

Secretary  of  tlie  Navy,  Washington,  I).  G. 


U.  S.  Naval  Observatouy, 

January  10,  1X75). 

Admiral  :  I  liave  the  honor  to  submit  herewith  the  Narrutiv(;  of 
the  residence  of  the  late  Capt.  0.  F.  Hall  among  the  Eskimos,  which 
has  been  prepared  for  the  Senate,  by  the  orders  of  the  Department, 
under  your  superintendence  and  advice. 

The  Manuscripts  of  Captain  Hall's  explorations,  purchased  by 
Congress,  have  been  found  to  present  a  mass  of  writing  in  the  form  of 
journals,  note-books,  and  even  scattered  leaves,  exhibiting  a  large 
amount  of  close  observation,  the  results  of  which  the  lamented  ex- 
plorer more  than  once  expressed  his  desire  to  arrange  with  his  own 
hand  and  publish. 

In  preparing  the  Narrative  the  aim  has  been  to  exercise  a  close 
discrimination  in  the  selection  of  the  material  which  seemed  the  most 
valuable  chiefly  in  its  geographical  and  ethnological  bearings.  The 
astronomical  and  meteorological  observations,  reduced  from  Hall's 
journal  entries,  are  given  in  Appendixes  I  and  II.  Mr.  K.  W.  I). 
Bryan,  late  of  the  Polaris  Expedition,  assisting  in  the  jireparation  of 
the  Narrative,  under  the  orders  of  the  Department,  has  rendered  very 
valuable  services  in  arranging  and  condensing  the  material  found  in 
the  journals  and  in  superintending  the  astronomical  and  meteorolog- 
ical   reductions.      Prof    C.    Abbe    will    kindlv    re-examine    the    last 


Letter. 

naiufd.  Tlirou<'li  the  courtesy  of  Professor  Baird,  Secretary  of  the 
Suiithsoiiian  Institution,  and  of  Professor  White,  United  States  Geolo- 
u-ist.  a  vahiable  paper  on  the  geological  collections  brought  by  Hall 
in  tlie  United  States  has  been  furnished  from  the  pen  of  Prof.  B.  K. 
Kmerson,  of  Amherst  College. 

The  two  years  preceding  this  expedition  being  years  of  severe 
labor  spent  bv  Captain  Hall  in  preparing  for  the  renewal  of  his  earlier 
wnrk  which  liad  the  same  objects  in  view,  the  Narrative  commences 
with  this  period  of  preparation,  and  is  thus  legitimately  linked  to  the 
objects  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition  of  1845  and  to  the  expedi- 
tit»ns  sent  out  for  his  relief.  In  a  Preliminar}^  Chapter  the  results  of 
these  are  given  in  tabulated  form,  with  maps  illustrative  of  the  general 
progress  of  geographical  exploration  secured  by  these  expeditions. 

I  have  to  acknowledge  the  courtesy  shown  by  Sir  Leopold 
McCHntock  and  by  Admiral  R.  CoUinson,  K  N.,  in  the  communica- 
tions received  iVoni  them;  the  kindness  of  Miss  Sophia  Cracroft  in 
returnin;:-  two  of  Hall's  journals  which  had  been  sent  by  him  to  Lady 
Franklin,  and  in  tlie  htan  of  a  portrait  of  Sir  John  which  has  been  repro- 
duced by  the  Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing ;  and  the  receipt 
througli  the  State  Department  of  valued  statistical  information  col- 
lated l>y  Fnited  States  Consul  McDougal,  of  Dundee.  The  assistance 
rendered  t(.  Hall  l)y  liis  numerous  friends  is  named  within  the  text, 
from  his  own  ackiiKwledirments. 

I  am,  sir,  very  respectfull}',  your  obedient  servant, 

J.  E.  NOURSE, 

Pro/,  U.  S.  N. 

Rear- Admiral   .Ioii.n    iioDOEKs, 

Superintendent. 


CONTENTS. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 


OFFICIAL   LETTERS 

Letter  of  Hou.  R.  W.  Thompson,  Secretary  of  tlie  Navy,  to  the  Vice-Presith-iit  U.  S. 
Letter  of  Rear-Adiiiiriil  Rodgers,  Superiuteiulent  of  th<'  Naval  Oh.servatory,  to  tlie  Secre- 
tary of  the  Navy,  forwarding  the  Narrative. 

PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


Pat'e. 


Hall's  three  expeditions — Piucliase  of  his  manuscrixits  l)y  Congress — Resolution  of  the 
Senate  of  Febrnary  G,  1877 — The  three  expeditions  compared — Connection  of  the 
first  and  of  the  second  with  the  Franklin  Expedition — Correspondence  with  Lady 
Franklin — Hall's  "aiipeal"  and  lecture  in  1860 — Tables  of  English  and  of  Ameri- 
can explorations  for  the  Northwest  Passage  and  for  the  relief  of  Franklin — Bene- 
iicial  results  and  estimated  costs  of  these  expeditious,  public  and  private,  stated  in 
a  letter  from  Admiral  Sir  Leopold  McCliutock,  R.  N. — The  small  i)ercentage  of 
deaths— Arctic  authorities,  1S18-18G0 XI-L 

CHAPTER   I. 

PREPARATORY  WORK  FOR  THE   EXPEDITION. 

September  to  December,  1862. 

Hall  returns  from  his  First  Expedition — Telegraphs  from  St.  John's,  Newfoundland,  ex- 
pressing his  purpose  of  a  second  voyage — Writes  to  Mr.  Grinnell  from  Cincinnati, 
desiring  to  present  the  Frobisher  relics  to  the  English  people — His  abstract  of 
Captain  DUlon's  discovery  of  the  relics  of  La  Perouse's  Expedition — Studies  Hak- 
luyt,  Purchas,  and  other  authorities,  and  finds  i)roof  of  the  genuineness  of  his 
discoveries — Reads  a  paper  betbre  the  American  Geographical  Society,  avowing  his 
luirpose  of  retnruiug  North  in  the  following  year — Ackuowleilgment  by  the  Royal 
GeogTaphical  Society  of  the  receipt  of  the  relics — Correspondence  with  Mr.  .John 
Barrow  and  with  Captain  Becher,  R.  N.,  resulting  in  llii'  jucjunaf ion  <>f  a  new 
Arctic  volume  by  Admiral  Colliuson,  R.  N.,  for  the  Hakluyt  Society — Hall's  account 
of  his  discoveries  read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  London— 'I'heir  gen- 
nincn(>ss  confirmed  by  Rae,  Barrow,  Markham,  and  Young — His  abstract  of  the 
three  expeditions  of  Sir  Martin  Frobishei- — Addenda ^l'-' 


ii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    II. 

PKEPARATIONS  FOK  11 1 1:  VOYAGE— HALL  SAILS  FROM  NEW  LONDON. 

DlXI.MBKR,  180*2,  TO  JlLY,  1804. 

Ilall  li'i-tnrvs  for  his  iiorsonal  siiiiport  and  that  of  the  two  Eskimos— His  care  of  these 
jH.(,j)K. — Dt-atli  of  Tuk-i-e-li-keo-ta- Friends  gained  for  the  Seeoud  Expedition- 
Plan  of  an  ex-i>e<lition  submitted  by  Hall,  March  17,  186:5,  to  Mr.  Grinuell  and  R.  H. 
Chapi-11,  of  New  London,  Conn. — Hall's  preference  for  a  plan  which  would  not 
include  whaling — Financial  diflicultics— Embarrassments  in  forming  new  friend- 
ships—iKti-rniination  to  go  out  a  second  time,  even  for  an  absence  of  ten  years — 
Expectation  of  linding  mw  whaling-grounds — Correspondence  on  this  subject  with 
ilr.  U.  H.  Chapt'll  and  Professor  Bache,  Superintendent  United  States  Coast  Sur- 
vey— Disappointment  as  to  assistance  from  the  Legislature  and  from  the  New  York 
Chamber  of  Commerce — Failure  to  obtain  a  loan  of  instramcnts  from  the  Gov- 
i-mim-nt — Card  to  the  public,  postponing  the  expedition  to  another  year — Hall 
resumes  work  on  the  "Arctic  Researches" — Lectures  before  the  Long  Island  His- 
torical .Society — May,  1804,  renews  his  appeal,  indorsed  by  leading  citizens — Loans 
of  instruments — Free  passage  tendered  by  Mr.  Chapell — Hospitable  recei)tion  at 
New  Londnn — Sails  for  St.  John's 'i'S-AA 

CHAPTER   III. 

1  i;«i-M  sr.  JOHN'S.  NEWFOL^'DLAND,  TO  WINTER  QUARTERS  ON  THE  WELCOME. 

July  18  to  Octobkr  1,  1864. 
.Vrrival  at  St.  Jidin's,  Newfoundland — Departure  for  Hudson's  Bay — Passage  through  the 
Straits — E\<iting  capture  of  two  Polar  bears — The  Monticello  lands  Hall  at  Depot 
Island  and  cruises  for  whales — A  white  man  hired  from  the  whalers — The  Helen  F. 
takts  Hall's  party  toward  the  Wager  River — Mistakes  the  latitude,  landing  them 
forty  miles  south— Tents  set  up  and  cache  made — First  meeting  with  the  Innuits 
from  HepiilM'  Bay— Inquiries  mad<'  of  them  as  to  Franklin's  Expedition— Change  of 
the  wawiU— Removal  of  tui)iks— The  Innuits  collect  their  fur  di'esses — Their  Ire- 
quent  visits  t<>  Hall's  tupiks— Snow-drifts— Wolf-tracks-Snow-partridges— Con- 
Htructioii  of  an  igloo — Winte;  i|uarters 47-70 

CHAPTER  IV. 
liTKiic  <.i  K-si:  wnii  riii:  i.nmits— their  feasts  and  hunts. 

OcToiJKU  TO  Dkckmukr  :U,  1804. 

Hf»li  h   iiiiiiiKuatK.ns   K.   III,.    KnlVering— Their  gratitude— Feasts    described— Ebicrbing 

aiikiHHe.l— An  aurora— Magnetic  observatory   erected— Sledge  journey  down    the 

WeiruMie— Mui*k-<ix    liunt— A    IV.x    .aM;;lit    in    his  (.w  n    dap— Cust.mis  in  making 

n-indeer  dep-.Mi  .      \  lM:,r  slain-  Pi.p;,,ali..i.  -.f  skins-Hall's  seal   Ininl-Plii  viiig 


CONTENTS.  iii 

the  koy-low-tik — Removal  to  the  walnis-^^roiiiMls— Ou-c-la's  Iiniiiit  slorics — Visit 
by  tlio  natives  to  the  wlialc-ships  at  Depot  Island— Alleged  reasons  for  a«lvico 
given  hy  the  lunuits  to  Dr.  Eac  in  1854— Discovery  that  a  day  had  been  lost  in 
the  reckoning — Presents  received  from  the  whalers— Successful  walnis-hunt 79-123 

CHAPTET^  V. 

WENTEE  LIFE  AND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  WAGER. 

January  to  May,  18C5. 

New  Year's  Day— Hall's  speech — Feasting— Brilliant  auroras- He  visits,  with  the  Innuits, 
the  whalers  at  Depot  Island — Hospitalities  and  amusements  on  hoard — Return  to 
Noo-wook — Shoo-she-ark-nook  jiersuades  some  of  the  Innnits  to  abandon  Hall — 
Suiiposed  earthqua,ke — New  orders  of  the  An-ge-ko — Meteorological  observations 
— Want  of  confidence  iu  the  instruments — Experiments  as  to  the  freezing-iioint  of 
mercury — Severity  of  the  cold — Difficulty  in  making  records — Hall's  brass  tablets — 
Supplies  nearly  exhausted — Ebierbing  comes  to  the  rescue — Flocks  of  eider-ducks 
iu  the  Welcome — Native  customs  in  sealing — Nu-ker-zhoo's  and  Ebierbing's  ill- 
success — Supplies  of  provision,  fuel,  and  light  nearly  gone — Plenty  restored — The 
season  moderating — Plan  for  survey  of  the  Welcome — Hall's  broken  health — The 
tides  in  the  river — Removal  to  the  Wager l'^7-l(;4 

CHAPTER  VI. 

FROM  THE  WAGER  TO  FORT  HOPE. 

May'  to  September,  1865. 

The  thirteenth  encampment  made  upon  the  Wager  River — A  successful  sealing  season — 
Hall's  own  prize — Rejoicings  at  the  fii'st  success  of  a  young  Innuit — Customs  at  the 
birth  of  an  infant — Moving  from  kom-mongs  into  tupiks — ^Appearance  of  the 
deserted  village — Aurora — Journey  to  Repulse  Bay — Eefraction — Encampment  on 
Oog-la-ri-your  Island — Ou-e-la's  dexterity  in  hunting — Game  secured — The  making 
of  ook-gook  lines — Clearing  out  of  the  ice — Ajipearance  of  the  whalers  in  the 
Welcome — Refraction — Storm — Treatment  of  the  dogs — The  tides — Death  of  Shoo- 
she-ark-nook — Mourning  customs — Renewed  api>earance  of  whalers  in  Rei>ulse 
Bay — Capture  of  a  whale  by  the  crews  of  Hall's  boats — Encampment  near  Fort 
Hope  of  Dr.  Eae — Hall's  notes  of  the  rocks,  stones,  and  sand  found  on  the  ice,  com- 
pared with  Parry's  observations 1(>7-10S 


iv  (CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   YU. 

A  SECOM'  WlMKi;  LIIE-PKEPARATIONS   VOU   THE   FIRST   SLEDGE   JOURNEY  TO 

KING  WILLIAMS  LAND. 

SEPTEMUKI!,  lH&o,  TO  APKIL,  1866. 

riaus  lor  a  skilge  journey  in  tlio  sprinj,'— Si-paration  from  the  Imiuits— Ebierbiug,  Too- 
kui>-li-too,  and  Ar-iuou's  family  ivmain  with  Hall— Hie  interest  in  the  deer-hunts — 
Dau"or  to  life  expeiii-uced — An  aurora  described  by  Hall  as  seen  fiom  his  bed  on 
the  rocks— Large  number  of  deer  slain- Hall's  reindeer  deposits— Severe  gale — 
Too-km>-li-too's  remembrance  of  the  Brooklyn  ladies  wishing  her  to  dress  like 
civilized  jicople — Exjiosures  on  visiting  the  deposits — Failure  to  catch  salmon — 
Hair.s  daily  subsi.stencc — He  prepares  skin  garments — Removal  toNow-yani — News 
uf  the  drowning  of  Ar-too-a — Feasts  ami  amuseuieuts  at  Now-yarn — Visit  to  Oog-la- 
ri-your  Island — Troubles  with  the  natives — Reconciliation  and  encouragements — 
Temperature  of  the  winter  months — Frequent  auroras — Readiness  for  a  forward 
uiovt'  to  King  William"s  Land 201-233 

CHAPTER  Vni. 

FIR.ST  ADVANCE  TOWARD  KING  WILLIAM'S  LAND— SLEDGE  JOURNEY  TO  COLVILE 

BAY  AND  RETURN. 

March  31  to  May  25,  1866. 

Start  for  King  William's  Land  March  31 — Hall's  companions — His  exposure — Walks 
iK'hind  the  sledges — Gale-bound — Innuit  legeudsof  the  wolf  and  the  bear — An-koo- 
tiug  for  Too-koo-li-too's  sick  infant — Uncertainty  of  the  guides — Dr.  Rae's  chart 
foll(jwe<l — Letters  sent  back  to  the  Avhalers — Tardiness  of  the  natives — Renewed 
aii-koo-ting  for  the  child — Further  delays — Icing  of  th(r  sleds  renewed — The  Sea  of 
Ak-koo-lee  reached  on  the  twenty-eighth  day  of  a  journey  once  made  by  Rae  in 
five  days— Meeting  with  natives  from  Pelly  Bay— Their  accounts  of  Franklin's 
Bhiph — Relies  obtained  from  them — Intimidation  of  Hall's  men  by  these  natives — 
Hall  compelled  to  retnni  from  Colvile  Bay— Leaves  a  deposit  at  Cape  Weynton  for 
bin  next  journey— Buries  Too-koo-li-too's  child,  "Little  King  William"— Arrives  at 
Ik-ucou  Hill  May  "Zi — The  Innuits  agree  to  go  back  the  next  year 237-269 

(TIAl^TER  IX. 

JOI'HXEVS  Al:<MM)  IM:IMI>E  bay,  simmer  life,  and  THIRD  WINTER. 

.llXK,   1HC,<;,  T(,  FKnKt'AItY,  1867. 

Condilioiui  nrccMHary  for  a  new  jonrney— Exp.ri.iice  with  the  natives  of  Felly  Bay- 
Arrival  of  tli«'  trilH'  at  E-M<M)k-shoo-lik— Hall  goes  out  to  meet  them— Reception  of 
Ih.-ir  un-L-  k.,  I  l„.ir  Ktory  of  the  white  man's  monument  at  Shar-too— The  tin  cup 
«■'•'•  I»»l  liieh  wa*«  thrown  away— Th.-  «k<-letons  bv  the  monument— The 


CONTENTS.  V 

aupcrstitions  of  these  jjooph — llnll  iifciisfd  of  liiiiii,fiii!,r  sickness  ;uii()ii^   tlicin 

The  bangiug  of  the  ohl  chicsf  and  his  wife  li.v  their  smi  "to  take  llieiii  to  the 
happy  laud"— Hall  keejjs  the  i>eace  hetween  tlie  I'dly  ]5a.v  and  tiie  JJeitnIse  JJay 
natives — Settles  some  old  feuds  in  his  liipik— His  sledge  journeys  for  survey  of 
the  bay — Eiuharrassmeuts  in  his  work— Death  of  Oii-c-la's  wife— Ill-treatment 
of  womeu— Arrival  of  the  whalers— Hall  requests  them  to  spare  men  from  their 
crews  for  his  next  jourucy— His  assistance  to  the  eajjtains— The;  sliijis  decide  to 
winter  in  the  bay — Hall  encamps  near  them  iu  Noveuilter — lutereoni-se  throuji;h 
the  wiuter— The  captains  will  not  let  the  Innuits  furnish  him  with  dogs 273-290 

CHAPTER  X. 

SLEDGE  JOURNEY  TO  IG-LOO-LIK  FOK  DOGS. 

February  7  to  April  1,  1807. 

Counter-claims  on  the  Innuits  for  their  dogs — Hall  dctcrniines  to  make  a  sledge  journey 
to  Ig-loo-lik  to  purchase  his  own  team — Leaves  Ships'  Harlx>r  Islands  February  7 — 
Fii'st  delays — Ou-e-la  loses  his  way — Provisious  become  scarce — The  mouths  of  the 
dogs  tied  wp  to  prevent  their  eating  the  harness — Am-i-tokc  reached,  but  no  natives 
found — Ou-e-la  accuses  Hall  of  bringing  him  to  starvation — Ig-loo-lik  reached  on 
the  27th — Purchase  of  dogs — Visit  to  Tern  Island,  to  Parry's  llag-statf — Ou-c-la  i)uts 
a  widow  and.  her  household  goods  ou  the  return  sled — Hall  puts  her  oii'  on  the  ice — 
Starts  back  with  another  native  as  driver — Ou-e-la's  bad  conduct  on  the  return — 
Hall  again  sights  the  ships  on  the  30th  of  March — The  captains  now  refuse  to  let 
him  have  the  men  for  his  journey 293-310 

CHAPTER  XL 

JOURNEY  TO  CAPE  WEYNTON. 

Summer  of  18G7  axd  winter  of  1868. 

Anxiety  for  the  safety  of  the  cache  made  iu  1866 — Hall's  party  sets  out  to  vist  it  May 
1 — Route  by  Gibson's  Cove,  Walrus  Island,  aud  Iwillik  to  Chri.stie  Lake — Sails 
raised  on  the  sleds — Snow-blindness — Miles  Lake  reached — Strange  Innuita  seen — 
The  Sea  of  Ak-koo-lee  aud  Point  Hargrave  reached— Expedients  to  hurry  up  the 
dogs — Cape  Weynton  reached — The  cache  changed — Return  to  Beacon  Hill— A 
■week's  musk-ox  hunt — Survey  of  Ships'  Harbor  Islands — Native  superstition — H.ill's 
purchase  of  supplies — Capture  of  a  walrus — The  hiring  of  five  white  men — "Winter 
quarters 31:5-327 


vi  CONTENTS. 


riTAPTER    XTI. 

JOrRXEY    T(^   THE   STlJAIl     OF  FURY   AND  HECLA  AND   TO  LYON'S  INLET,   AND 

FOURTH  WINTER. 

Frniu-ARY,  1868,  to  March,  1869. 

Hall  iiurposcs  to  visit  the  northt-ni  part  of  Mellville  Peninsula— Reasons  for  this  jouiney 
in  place  of  one  to  King  William's  Land— The  information  from  the  natives  of 
monument  and  places  of  white  men  seen  there  since  1863— Purchases  the  few 
dogs  still  alive  among  the  natives— His  provision-hst  for  the  journey  and  articles 
of  barter— Loses  some  of  his  notes  by  the  gale— Encamps  on  the  ice  near  the  Ooglit 
Islamls— Converses  with  the  natives— Visits  Parry  Bay  with  Koo-loo-a— Finds  a 
monument— Digs  in  vain  for  the  cache— Finds  the  remains  of  a  tenting-place  once 
occupied  by  white  men— Discovers  Grinnell  Lake  and  Brevoort  River— Visits 
Amherst  Island— Returns  to  Tern  Island— Holds  further  conversations  with  the 
natives — Receives  several  maps  drawn  by  the  Eskimos — Visits  Giftbrd  River  to 
fud  another  tenting-place — Returns  to  Repulse  Bay— Salmon-tishing  and  deer- 
hinits- Mutiny  of  one  of  the  five  white  men — Loss  of  life — Capture  of  a  second 
whak' — Journey  to  Lyon's  Inlet — Survey — Discharge  of  the  four  white  men — Hall 
dries  venison  and  ^irepares  pemmican  in  his  own  igloo — Plans  for  a  new  sledge 
journey  to   King  William's  Laud 331-374 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

FINAL  .lOlRNEY  TO  KING  WILLIAM'S  LAND  AND  RETURN  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES. 
Mahcii  23,  1869,  TO  September  26,  1869. 

Hall  l>egin8  his  final  journey  to  King  William's  Land — Route  toward  Pelly  Bay  the  same 
with  that  followed  in  1866  and  1867 — The  cache  made  in  1867  reached — Safety  of  the 
Htores — Deposit  made  for  the  return  journey — Encamps  on  Lake  Tep-suk-ju-a 
April  8 — On  Augusta  Island,  April  11— Meets  Pelly  Bay  natives — Peculiarities  of 
the  ice  form.'ition — Flying  sledge  trip  to  the  igloos — Franklin  relics — Hall's  natives 
alunued — Their  fears  (inieted — Musk-ox  hunt  near  Simpson's  Lake — Neitchille  na- 
tives mot — Conversations  wiih  In-nook-poo-zhe-jook — More  Franklin  relics — En- 
cuMipH  on  Todd's  Island — Graves  of  Franklin's  men  visited  near  Pefler  River — 
(Iravw*  on  Toild's  lHlan<l — Deep  snow  prevents  fnrther  search — Unwillingness  of 
tlie  iiutivcK  to  remain- Hvfurn  to  Repulse  Bay — Information  from  In-nook-poo-zhc- 
jcKjk  ou  the  rout<— Alnindani.e  of  game  from  King  William's  Land  to  Repulse 
Bay— Muhk-ox  huntn— Hall's  letter  giving  the  results  of  this  journey — Arrives  at 
UepulMc  Hay— Plans  of  return  tti  lli.-  United  States— Occupations  during  June 
aod  July— PlacoH  the  bone  of  IiIh  third  whah;  and  his  musk-ox  skins  on  the  An- 
(it'll  Gibb»— SaJiN  for  the  United  States— Hunts  the  bear  and  the  deer  at  Whale 
Point— Arriv.-«  at  New  Bedford,  September  26,  1869— Tributes  of  respect— Visit  to 
bin  grovo  by  th«  KngliHh  Arctic  Exjtedition  of  lH7.'j 377-438 


CONTENTS.  vii 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

ADDITIONAL  NOTES— HALL'S  TWO  ESKIMO  FRIENDS. 

Hall's  two  Eskimo  friends— Ebierbiug  (Joo)  and  Too-koo-li-too  (Hannah)— Their  chil- 
dren— Joe's  consins — The  inscriptions  in  the  cemetery  at  Groton,  Connecticut 441-448 

APPENDIXES 

I.  Hall's  Astronomical  Observations 451-475 

II.  Hall's  Meteorological  Observations 479-550 

III.  Hall's  Geological  Collections  discussed  by  Prof.  Benj.  K.  Emerson,  of  Amherst  Col- 

lege, Massachusetts 553-5815 

IV.  Conversations  with  the  Innuits,  1864, 1868,  and  1869 587-611 

V.  Statistics  furnished  by  U.  S.  Consul  McDougall  as  to  the  whale  fishery,  and  the 

manufacture  of  jute  at  Dundee,  by  the  use  of  whale  and  seal  oil 615-633 


ERRATA. 


Page  35,  for  (Appendix)  VIII  read  V. 
Page  37,  for  (Messrs.)  Poillou  read  Poillon. 
Page  42,  for  whaling  brig  read  barque. 
Page  176,  for  Eggers  read  Eggert's. 
Page  297,  for  80°  below  zero  read  50. 


1  L  L  r  S  1^  R  A  r  I  O  N  s . 


STEEL  ENGRAVINGS. 
(Executed  at  the  U.  S.  Treasury  Department.) 

Portrait  of  Hall  (1870) Frontispiece 

Page. 
r..rir:iit  f.f  Sir  Jnlm  Erankliu  (from  an  engraving  loaned  by  Mi.ss  Cracroft,  of  London)..  ..  xxviii 

WOOD  ENGRAVINGS,  PHOTO-ENGRAVINGS,  AND    HELIOTYPES. 

S|K»on  holouging  to  Sii"  John  Franklin xxiii 

Miiiiuture  of  Franklin xxiv 

Hir  Martin  Frobi.sher 7 

Mr.  Henry  Grinneli.  with  autograph 26 

Ml.  J.  C.  Hrei'voort.  witii  autograph 41 

liar) Mir  of  New  London 42 

Harbor  of  St.  John's 48 

polar  li«ar  of  Hudson's  Strait 52 

Mo\  ing  the  Tupiks      68 

Suow-partridges 71 

Suow-knife 73 

Hall's  Firnt  IglfM»  and  (Jrouinl-plan 74 

Innuit  Lump 75 

Eskimo  i>Ut\  85 

S<-k-k<MinK  (fur-serapirs) 91 

Enkimo  (fuim-M  (ball  and  cii]i) 95 

Playing  tin-  Key-lnw-tik 96 

K«'y-lo\v-tik  an<l  Kentmm 97 

I)og-Hkin  Mittiiih  107 

Innuit  Lanre  and  I'arih  of  the  Same 119 

A  WalniH-Huiit l-^l 

Wolnin  Hea<l 122 

UitMind-plan  of  Village  Igloo 128 

C;niinid-plun  of  Ighni  of  iSledge  Journey 134 

Am.wt«r 135 


ILLUSTRATIONS.  ix 

Pago. 

Seal-skin  Boots  and  Bear-skin  Mittens 136 

Ebiorbing  going  out  Sealing , ir>4 

Innuit  Harpoon-heads IC'J 

Ivory  and  Bono  Combs 177 

Eskimo  Dog 185 

Too-koo-li-too  going  out  into  the  Storm '206 

Deer-skin  Gloves 213 

Repulse  Bay  Kia,  and  Kia  Ornament 216 

Ar-too-a  Drowned  from  his  Kia 217 

Innuit  Tight-ropes 218 

Seal-tooth  Ornament  for  the  Head 219 

Ground  i^lan  of  Feasting-igloo 220 

Eskimo  Sled 221 

Hall's  Sketch  of  Now-yam  Harbor 222 

The  Rent  Cliff 223 

Aurora  Sketched  by  Hall 230 

Franklin  Relics 258 

Franklin  Relics — Spoons  and  Forks 259 

Bear-tooth  Toggle 295 

Hall's  Lamp 297 

Innuit  Arrows  -^02 

Bone  Charm,  Needle-case,  Knife,  Saw,  and  Bone  Fork 304 

Hall's  Boat-log :524 

Snow-goggles "^43 

Monument  Built  by  White  Men 344 

Sketch  of  Monumental  Inlet 345 

Sketch  of  Tenting-place  of  White  Men 352 

Scraper  to  Deceive  the  Seal 352 

Hall's  Capture  of  a  Whale 363 

Snow  Village 368 

Setting  out  for  King  William's  Land 378 

Seal  and  Deer  Skin  Foot-gear , 380 

Sabres '^^ 

Snow-shovel ^^'' 

Innuit  I\;ory  Knives,  Fork,  and  Spoon 397 

Desk  from  Franklin's  Ship,  Needle-case  from  King  William's  Land 399 

Innuit  Stone  Pot ^^'^ 


Leaf  from  Hall's  Note-book . 
Tablet  for  Covers 


409 
410 


Musk-ox  Horns  and  Ladle  made  from  them 

Horns  of  a  Deer  shot  by  Hall 

Musk-ox  Hunt '*^"* 

Hall's  Grave  "^"^ 


X  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Page. 

Ktkiim.  Joo 443 

Grotou,  Couuccticnt 440 

Ou-^-j;oup  (Jeanuie)  and  Kud-lup-pa-iui-ne  (cousins  of  Joe)  44H,  447 

flanuah 448 

MAPS. 

Cimiiupolar  Maj>.  with  explorfrs'  names in  the  pocket  of  the  vohimc. 

Part  of  the  Chart  furnished  to  Franklin xx vii 

Supposed  Track  of  Franklin xxxii 

The  Kecord  found  by  McClintock  in  the  Cairn xxxiii 

CirtuniiKdar  Map  No.  II — Geographical  Discoveries  since  1818 xxxviii 

Frobisher's  Map 15 

Hall's  Voyages  to  Re]>ulse  Bay  and  return 55 

Hall's  Boat  Journey,  1805 179 

Hall's  Boat  Journey,  18GG 279 

Hall's  Survey  of  Ships'  Harbor  Islands 321 

Hall's  Journey  to  Straits  of  Fury  aud  Hecla,  18(58 346 

Hall's  Journey  to  Lyon's  Inlet,  18G8 367 

Hall's  Journey  to  King  William's  Land.  1869 386 

SKETCHES  OF  COASTLINE,  DRAWN  BY  INNUITS. 

Annou's  Sketch  of  Coast  from  Fort  Clnncliill  to  Lancaster  Sound 225 

Ou-<»-la's  Sketch  of  Repulse  Bay 278 

Nood-loo's  Sketch  of  Murray  Maxwell  Inlet 351 

Oou-ger- Ink's  Ske*';h  of  Fox  Channel 354 

Oon-ger-luk's  Sketch  of  Admiralty  Inlet 3,56 

Pa-pa-tcw-a's  Sketch  of  Lyon's  Inlet 364 

Papa-tfw-a's  Sketch  of  Pond's  Bay 370 

lD-nouk-i>oo-/hee-jook'8  Sketch  of  King  William's  Laud 398 


PRELIMINARY  CHAPTER. 


PRELIMINARY    CHAPTER 


Hall's  three  Expeditions— Purchase  of  his  Manuscripts  by  Congress — Resolution  of 
THE  Senate  of  February  6,  1877— The  three  Expeditions  compared— Connection 
OF  THE  First  and  of  the  Second  with  the  Franklin  Expedition— Correspondence 
WITH  Lady  Franklin— Hall's  "Appeal"  and  Lecture  in  18C0 — Tables  of  English 
and  of  American  explorations  for  the  Northwest  Passage  and  for  the  relief 
of  Franklin — Beneficial  Results  and  estimated  costs  of  these  Expeditions, 
public  and  private,  stated  in  a  letter  from  Admiral  Sir  Leopold  McClintock, 
R.  N. — The  small  percentage  of  deaths— Arctic  Authorities,  1818-1860. 

The  late  Capt.  Charles  Francis  Hall,  commander  of  the  Xortli 
Polar  Expedition  of  187 J,  United  States  steamship  Polaris,  had  pre- 
viously made  two  voyages,  or,  as  he  has  called  them,  "  Expeditions," 
to  the  northern  shores  of  America. 

The  first  of  these  embraced  a  period  of  two  years  and  three 
months,  from  May  29,  1860,  to  September  13,  1862,  furnishing  the 
material  for  his  "Arctic  Researches,"  which  he  published  in  1864 

The  second  voyage  and  residence  among  the  Eskimos  occui)ied 
the  longer  period  of  five  years  and  three  months,  from  June  30,  1864, 
to  September  26,  1869 ;  but  of  this  he  left  no  narrative,  becoming 
absorbed  immediately  on  his  return  in  preparing  for  his  third  voyage, 
that  of  the  Polaris.  On  board  of  this  vessel  his  sudden  death  occun-ed 
November  8,  1871. 

Under  the  act  of  Congress  approved  June  23,  1874,  the  Navy 

xi 


xii  Prelimiuary  Chapter. 

Department  purchased  from  liis  family/for  the  sum  of  $15,000,  the 
manuscripts  of  his  several  explorations,  some  of  which  were  made  use 
of  1»\-  the  late  Admiral  Davis  in  preparing  for  the  Department  the 
widelv-appreciated  "  Narrative  of  the  North  Polar  Expedition."*  The 
hirger  number  of  the  manuscripts,  however,  have  been  found  to  belong 
t<»  the  Second  Expedition,  and  form  the  basis  of  the  Narrative  now 
prepared  by  the  orders  of  the  Department,  to  meet  the  call  of  the 
Senate  in  the  resolution  adopted,  on  the  motion  of  Hon.  A.  A.  Sargent, 
February  6,  1877. 

llaU's  journals  and  notes  of  the  years  18(i4  to  1869,  kept  gen- 
erally with  much  care,  present  a  few  blanks;  chiefly  because  an  un- 
broken diary  was  made  impossible  by  the  privations  of  an  ill-furnished 
Arctic  life  His  private  coiTespondence,  courteously  loaned  by  his 
steadfast  fiiend,  Mr.  J.  C.  Brevoort,  and  by  the  family  of  the  late 
Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  supplements  in  part  these  deficiencies.  It  dis- 
closes also  repulses  experienced  while  seeking  assistance  for  this  sec- 
ond voyage  which  must  have  severely  schooled  his  energies. 

His  three  enterprises  had  a  common  object  in  geographical  dis- 
covery. The  Polaris  voyage,  however,  finds  its  distinctive  separation 
fr(»ni  Ills  cirlicr  objects  in  its  aiming  at  solving  the  problem  of  the 
Pole.  Ill  tiiis  p(»iiiT,  and  in  its  being  in  the  fullest  sense  an  exjDedition, 
and  not  tlie  itinerary  of  a  traveler  with  a  few  native  attendants,  it 
claims  a  iiiiicli  lii^ilicr  jilacc  than  the  Narrative  now  presented. 

I'.ut  tli<.'  journals  of  the  years  isiM-'GiJ  exhibit  a  longer  experience 
l.y  .Mr.  Hall  in  Arctic  life,  and  consequently  with  the  customs,  traditions, 
and  superstitions  of  the  Innuits  than  has  fallen  to  the  lot  of  other  Arctic 


'V\\v  thinl  <<litioii  of  tliis  Xarrativ.-  was  ord.Tcd  l.y  Congress  June  7,  1878,  to  bo  on  sale 
under  tin-  iiroviMiotiH  of  the  act  of  thai  date.     This  edition  is  exhausted. 


Preliminary  Chapter.  xiii 

travelers.  His  Second  Expedition,  as  distinguished  from  \\u'.  Tliinl,  will 
also  be  found  to  be  closely  connected  with  the  First  and  with  the 
course  of  American  and  English  Arctic  exploration  during  the  j)re- 
ceding  twenty  years ;  for  the  two  voyages  of  1860-62  and  of  1864-'(>1) 
were  ahke  "Franklin  Relief"  Expeditions,  in  which  Hall  endeav- 
ored to  complete  the  work  begun  by  Lieutenant  De  Haven,  Dr.  E.  K. 
Kane,  of  the  United  States  Navy,  and  their  associates,  and  by  more 
than  thirty  English  relief  parties  which  had  preceded  them. 

Sympathy  for  the  mysterious  fate  of  Franklin's  Expedition  was 
universal.  In  Hall  it  kindled  a  spirit  of  enthusiasm  which  failed  him 
only  with  his  life  It  early  became  his  controling  idea.  Through  the 
nine  years  from  May,  1850  when  Secretary  Preston's  Instructions  for 
the  First  Grinnell  Expedition  issued  to  Lieutenant  De  Haven,  to  the 
return  of  the  English  steamer  Fox,  he  was  steadily  increasing  his 
Arctic  library,  and  devoting  every  spare  hour  to  Arctic  study ;  and  his 
notes  and  comments  show  his  interest  in  all  such  returns  from  the 
searched  region  as  Dr.  Rae,  in  1854,  brought  from  Boothia,  De  Haven 
and  Kane  from  Beechy  Island,  or  McClintock  from  King  William's 
Land. 

On  the  return  of  the  officer  last  named.  Hall  urged  that  the  explo- 
rations made  by  him  and  his  junior  officers,  Hobson  and  Young, 
though  eminently  successful,  still  left  much  of  value  to  be  secured ; 
that  they  had  been  made,  by  necessity,  in  the  month  of  May  when 
the  land  was  still  covered  with  snow,  and  that  interviews  witli  the 
Eskimos  had  been  found  practicable  with  detached  parties  only. 
Hoping  for  further  success  in  a  more  favorable  season  of  the  year,  and 
believing  that  "  as  England  had  left  the  field  of  search,  the  Stars  and 
Stripes  should  enter,"  he  sailed  from  New  London,  Conn.,  in  May, 


xn 


Preliminary  Chapter. 


18GU,  for  the  most  favorable  northwestern  point  he  could  reach  in  a 
whaler,  from  which  point  he  would  make  his  way  westward  with  such 
Eskimo  comi)anions  as  he  could  secure.  To  the  American  Geograph- 
i«al  Society  lie  had  avowed  his  chief  object  to  be  "to  determine  more 
satisfactorily  the  fate  of  the  one  hundred  and  five  companions  of 
Franklin  known  to  be  alive  at  the  date  of  the  '  Record'  brought  back 
by  McClintock." 

Nothing  seems  to  prove  more  fully  the  sincerity  and  depth  of  con- 
victions— at  times  insecurely  based — than  this  expectation  of  finding  offi- 
cers or  men  of  that  party  still  alive.  The  paper  found  at  Point  Victory 
in  iSo'J  showed  that  Captain  Crozier  had  left  the  ships  on  their  aban- 
donment, w  ith  a  weakened  party  and  with  the  remnant  of  perhaps  origi- 
\\A\\  ill-sni)plied*  provisions,  to  find  his  way  toward  the  desolate  region 
( if  j^ack's  or  Great  Fish  River.  The  presumption  in  the  minds  of  most 
men  was  entirely  against  the  probability  of  extended  life  in  any  one  of 
the  survivors  named  in  that  Record. 

But  all  difficulties  in  the  case  were  overcome  or  lost  sight  of  in 
Hall's  reasonings,  and  in  his  impulse  to  bear  relief.  From  inquiries 
r»f  the  whalers  who  visited  Cumberland  Sound,  Repulse  Bay,  and  other 
n<»rthern  localities,  he  learned  that  the  experience  of  some  who  had 
lived  ft.r  UKUiths  as  Eskimos  with  the  Eskimos,  had  not  been  severe; 
and  fn.ni  one  of  Dr.  Kane's  party,  Mr.  William  Hickey,  he  received 
Insurance  that  \\\u-\\  li<-  and  others  of  that  party  had  so  lived,  they  had 
recovered  from  all  sicknesses  and  maintained  their  health.  Hall  con- 
cluded that  some  of  Franklin's  survisors  might  be  still  enjoying  a  lease 

•See  Sir  John  Hichanluon'B  "Polar  Regions,"  p.  162;  Admiral  Sherard  Osbom'e  "Career  of 
l-Yanklin,"  piJ.  70,  105,  108;  and  D.  Murray  Smith's  "Arctic  Explorations,"  1877,  especially  for  the 
qualify  of  Goldn.-r'B  proviMionH.  The  want  of  pcmmican  itself,  of  which  Osboni  spealcH,  would 
makf  the  HiipiM.rt  of  Crozier'H  j.arty  jilincmt  hopelcHs,  compelling  thoni  to  drag  loads  too  heavy 
for  th«ir  Mtn  n;;lh. 


Preliminarij  Chapter. 


XV 


of  life  among  that  not  inhospitable  people,  and  he  Iioped  that  by  his 
going  out  and  living  patiently  among  them, he  could  draw  out  tbrough 
faithful  interpreters,  the  final  clue  to  the  fate  of  the  ships,  the  men,  and 
the  records  of  the  expedition  Other  reasonings  leading  liini  to  beheve 
that  some  of  Franklin's  party  still  survived  were  substantially  these: 
tliat  no  Arctic  explorer  had  ever  understood  better  the  necessities  of  a 
good  supply  of  fresh  provisions  for  his  men  than  did  Sir  John  Franklin, 
and  that  he  made  provision  for  such  necessities.  In  proof  of  this,  Hall 
had  found  in  the  official  papers  that  a  full  complement  of  fresh  provis- 
ions, preserved  meats,  soups,  and  vegetables,  and  ten  live  oxen  were  on 
board  the  Erebus  and  the  Terror.  Further,  that  Franklin  had  told  Cap- 
tain Martin,  of  the  whaler  Enterprise,  when  off  the  coast  of  Greenland, 
July  22,  1845,  that  he  had  provisions  for  five  years,  and,  if  necessary, 
could  make  them  spin  out  seven ;  and  he  would  lose  no  opportunity  of 
killing  game,  having  already  organized  shooting  j)arties.  There  was 
every  reason  to  believe,  too,  that  animal  life  was  found  in  abundance 
by  his  men  on  the  shores  of  Wellington  Channel,  especially  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Baillie  Hamilton  Island,  and  that  Franklin  had  sent 
hunting  parties  to  great  distances  with  sledges ;  for  the  tracks  of  these 
sledges  were  seen  six  years  after  by  Kane,  De  Haven,  and  Ommaney 
and  Osborn.  Hall  could  say  with  truth  that  his  expectations  of  ren- 
dering relief  were  leased  on  years  of  careful  study  and  examination  of 
what  had  been  written  on  this  subject;  and  his  appeal  was  plain  and 
strong,  ''Why  should  not  attempts  be  renewed  again  and  again  until 
all  the  facts  are  known?" 

These  and  other  references  to  the  First  Voyage  are  here  made  the 
more  full,  because,  as  has  been  already  intimated,  the  same  idea  of 


x\i  Preliminary  Chapter. 

''rescue"  is  the  key  to  the  Second  also,  geographical  discovery  being 
but  a  subordinate  motive.  Hall's  first  voyage  had  been  rewarded  by 
discoverv,  and  he  was  thus  stimulated  to  return  to  the  North.  But  up 
to  the  time  of  his  preparations  for  the  North  Polar  Expedition  in  1870, 
there  was  probably  no  day  in  \yhiili  liis  thoughts  were  not  upon 
Franklin's  men  and  King  William's  Land ;  and  even  then  his  expecta- 
tion was  to  resume  the  search  on  his  return  from  the  Pole.  For  this 
problem  only  he  declined  Lady  Franklin's  proposal  that  he  should  go 
«.ut  a  tldrd  time  for  the  Records  of  the  Expedition. 

The  following  Letter  on  this  subject,  written  on  her  receiving  in 
is/):)  a  newspaper  account  of  some  of  Hall's  Arctic  work,  shows  her 
impartial  judgment  and  her  confidence  also  in  his  character  and  plans. 
In  this  connection  it  will  be  remembered  that  Lady  Franklin,  after 
being  compelled  on  McClintock's  return  to  abandon  the  lingering  hope 
of  her  husband's  safety,  still  held  her  thoughts  on  the  recovery  of  the 
Records  as  the  clue  to  the  history  of  his  last  years  and  as  establishing 
the  claim  that  he  was  the  discoverer  of  the  Northwest  Passage.  The 
in(piiries  which  she  here  makes  of  Hall  were  answered  by  his  letter 
of  a  later  date,  and  are  met  in  full  by  the  statements  in  Chapter  XIII 
ot  tliis  Narrative. 


[LETTER  FROM  LADY  JANE  FRANKLIN.] 


IJppEK  Gove  Lodoe 

Kensington  Gove, 

Oct:  30"*  69. 
My  dear  Mr.  Grinnell, 

I  had  not  received  M:  Hall's  report  when  1  wrote  to  you  last 
by  Denis,  or  I  should  have  had  much  more  to  say  to  you.  This 
I  have  delayed,  however,  because  I  felt  it  was  a  moment  when 
your  mind  must  be  fully  occupied  not  only  with  M:  Hall,  but  with 
the  still  nearer  and  more  heartfelt  business  of  overlooking  all  your 
dear  son's  relics  and  papers. — I  wished  also  to  hear  the  opinions  of  my 
Arctic  friends  on  M:  Hall's  report;  but  in  this  I  have  had  but  partial 
success,  as  at  this  season  friends  are  dispersed,  and  very  few  at  hand 
with  whom  details  can  be  discussed. — My  own  impresssion  is  that  Mr 
Hall  has  done  his  best  with  the  means  he  had  at  his  command ;  but 
his  statement  is  full  of  omissions  and  so  devoid  of  order  and  dates  as 
to  leave  much  confusion  and  perjjlexity  in  the  mind.  He  makes  no 
distinction  between  the  places  he  visited  himself,  and  what  he  saw  him- 
self— and  what  he  only  heard  of.  What  are  the  places  he  really  set  foot 
on  in  K.  W.  Land  and  the  dates  on  which  he  did  so  1  Did  he  merelx 
touch  the  Eastern  shore,  or  did  he  go  along  the  Southern  coast  by  Cape 
Herschel,  and  visit  the  other  places,  where  he  says  tliey  finally  perished  ? 
I  presume  he  did  not  visit  Montreal  Islaiul,  but  his  assertion  (dciivcd 
no  doubt  from  certain  Esquimaux)  is  at  variance  with  what  otlier 
Esquimaux  told  D'^  Eae  and  afterwards  McClintock,  and  w  itli  the  coii- 

S.  Ex.  27 II  ^^i 


XVUl 


Preliminary  Chapter. 


elusions  formed  by  Aiulersoii,  the  nudson  Bayofiicer,  previous  to  that 
j)(_'iiod. 

1  ;im  now  snpi)osiiij»-  that  two  sets  of  Esquimaux  gave  contradic- 
tory r\  ideuce  on  this  point,  but  I  perceive  it  was  the  same  man  whose 
name  was  *riven  liy  ^V  Hall,  who  gave  the  contradictory  information 
to  tin-  two  parties. —  Is  this  the  case,  or  has  Df  Eae misunderstood  him 
or  Hall  I 

Who  was  his  authority  for  saying  that  the  records  are  buried  in  a 
vault  (that  is,  I  suppose,  a  hole  dug  for  the  purpose)  near  Point  Vic- 
tory.'  Could  the  Esquimaux  point  out  the  exact  spot,  and,  if  so,  can 
we  l>elieve  they  have  not  opened  or  rifled  it?  Was  this  question  put 
to  them  f — and  is  there  reason  to  suppose  that  these  documents  may 
exist  in  jKtrt  in  their  possession  ? — Most  people  are  of  opinion  that  they 
t(tiik  tlii'ir  Journals  with  them  on  their  march, and  that  even  at  the  last 
extremity,  they  did  not  throw  them  away,  but  tried  to  hide  them  ;  and 
this  may  have  taken  i)lace  all  along  the  march.  It  seems  strange,  if  they 
were  buried  near  Pt.  Victory,  that  the  Record  found  there  and  brought 
home  by  McClintock,  did  not  notice  this; — especially  as  it  was  well  un- 
derstood, I  believe,  among  the  officers,  although  not  openly  talked  about 
^lest  the  information  should  be  betrayed  to  the  natives)  that  these  doc- 
uments were  to  be  buried  so  many  yards  magnetic  north  of  the  cairns 
(KM.tt  il. — Again  it  is  supposed,  and  I  believe  McClintock  is  of  that 
opinion,  that  these  vaults  may  be  conjectural  things,  by  which  the 
Es(juiiiianx  explained  some  leveled  or  paved  spot  which  had  been  the 
sit«-  (»f  a  magnetic  Observatory  or  shooting  station.  Have  the  Esqui- 
maux ever  been  asked  if  they  found  tin  cylinders,  or  any  other  con- 
trivanee  for  holdin;;  nothing  but  a  sheet  of  paper,  under  the  cairns,  and 
what  tln-y  «li<l  with  them,  and  whether  they  could  iwocure  any,  if  hand- 
>umely  r«'warde(l  ?  If  another  search  were  instituted,  it  should  be  held 
out  t«»  tiiem  that  the  i>roduction  of  paper  or  books  woidd  be  more  hand- 
><iiiiel\  lewardcil  than  anything  else. 

I)<Ks  not  M'  Hall  lielieve  that,  if  the  natives  had  found  what  he 
calls  "tlie  vault,"  they  would  have  removed  everything  out  of  it;  would 
he  liave  given  np  the  seareli  liad  he  felt  convinced  that  anvthing  was  to 


Preliminary  Cltaptvr.  xix 


be  gtiined  by  pursuiii^ii-  it? — This  is  51  question  lli;it  lias  Itccn  put  I <•; 

but  I  think  Mr  Hall  liad  not  the  means  of  sni)i)oi(in.ii  liimscir  in  the 
barren  island,  and  could  get  no  one  to  accompany  liini,  or  not  enough 
of  men;  and  then  the  new  idea  of  the  North  Pole  took  possession 
of  him  and  seemed  to  him  a  more  worthy  object  of  ambition. — Yet, 
though  he  abandoned,  whether  from  necessity  or  choice,  the  object  Ik- 
had  held  out  to  himself  from  the  beginning-,  he  is  too  conscientious  to 
say  that  nothing-  more  can  be  done,  or  that  he  did  all  that  man  can 
even  do  ;  and  his  declaration  is,  in  my  view  of  things,  creditable  to  his 
candor  and  truthfulness;  he  almost  invites  others  to  do  that  in  wliicli 
he  has  failed  himself, — and  this  leads  me  to  ask  (and  many  are  asking 
the  same  question)  whether  anything  would  induce  him  to  go  again  .' 
and,  if  so,  whether  he  would  consent  to  accompany  one  of  the  bravest 
and  ablest  of  our  Arctic  officers,  as  his  Second. — 

I  would  ask  you  to  ascertain  from  him  whether  he  would  postpone 
his  efforts  to  reach  the  Pole,  for  one  season  (he  may  be  quite  sure  there 
is  no  danger  of  any  body  getting  there  before  him)  and  devote  a  whole 
summer  to  the  recovery  of  the  precious  documents  on  King  AVilliani 
Island,  and  the  several  adjoining  jdaces  on  the  main-land,  wlierc  he 
believes  the  last  of  our  poor  people  perished. 

The  emoliuneuts  or  remuneration  must  be  such  as  to  make  it  -woi-tli 
his  while  to  undertake  another  voyage,  and  should  be  suggested  b\ 
himself,  so  that  he  might  start  with  a  willing  mind  and  be  able  to  see 
that  his  further  movements  northward  would  be  facilitated  rather  than 
checked,  by  joining  in  this  final  Arctic  search. — In  fact,  he  and  liis 
two  Esquimaux,  if  he  takes  them  with  him  towards  the  Pole,  wt)ul!l  Ix- 
so  far  forwarded  on  their  way  when  the  King  W':'  search  was  over. 
I  do  not  enter  at  present  into  more  detail,  except  that  such  an  P^xpe- 
ditiou  would  be  on  a  manageable  but  sufficient  scale,  composed  of  well- 
tried,  trustworthy  men,  whether  English,  American,  or  Canadian,  i.  c. 
Hudson  Bay  people:  and,  that  the  funds  are  jirovided  and  are  ample 
for  the  purpose.  To  apply  again  for  Government  aid  seems  totally  out 
of  the  question.  Such  an  appeal  wouhl  not  be  listened  to  for  a  moment , 
and  it  is  quite  certain  that  whatever  has  been  hitherto  effected  lias  bei-n 


XX 


Preliminary  Chapter. 


1»\  innate  iiR-au.s ;  viz,  by  your  Expe-ditions  on  the  oue  baud,  aud  my 
Iminble  eftoits  on  the  other. 

^\■llat  1  havt'  now  said  about  engaging  Mr.  Hall  in  a  last  effort  will 
show  hiui  that  1  Judge  of  him  as  you  do  yourself;  viz,  that  he  is  an  able, 
fearless,  trustworthy  and  eonseientious  man;  Dear  Cornelius  always 
maiutained  that  he  was  so.  It  remains  to  be  seen  whether  in  so  holy 
and  noble  a  t-ause  as  the  rescue  of  those  precious  documents  from  eternal 
sepultiue  in  oblivion,  ^I:  Ilall  would  be  willing  to  forego  the  chief  com- 
mand, in  order  to  act  as  a  coadjutor  with  all  that  natural  influence  which 
liis  experience  and  zeal  must  give  him;  sharing  the  dangers  of  his  com- 
|»anioii  and  sharing  liis  glory  also. 

Having  said  this  nnieh,  1  nuist  add  my  request  that  the  suggestions 
1  n()w  make  through  you  to  Mr  Hall  he  not  made  public,  nor  find  their 
way  into  the  ncics2)(i2icrs,  as  it  is  a  part  of  the  plan  here  in  England  to 
keep  the  contemplated  Expedition  a  secret  until  fully  determined  on  and 
organized,  in  order  to  avoid  all  obstruction,  discussions  and  difl&culty 
making. 

I  am  most  anxious  to  see  ^Mr.  Hall  at  this  moment ;  how  many  diffi- 
eulties  eould  be  eleared,  how  niuch  increased  confidence  inspired,  if  one 
eould  l>ut  see  and  talk  to  him! — but  how  is  this  to  be  effected,  for  I  siip- 
l)ose  he  is  too  busy  with  his  book  to  come  to  England  till  the  publisher's 
work  is  done ; — otherwise  I  would  gladly  pay  all  his  expenses  to  and 
from  and  during  his  stay  here. 

I  am  sorry  to  hear  rumors  of  his  having  got  into  some  trouble  about 
I  lie  man  wliom  he  sacrificed.  I  presume  he  deemed  it  necessary,  how- 
ever, for  the  safety  of  himself  and  others.  It  is  an  awful  thing  to  take 
a  man's  Ufe.  but  it  has  been  jbniid  justifiable  upon  occasions  when  the 
lives  of  others  were  endangered.  AVitness  that  act  of  Sir  John  Eichard- 
Mtn's.  which  is  always  quoted  to  his  honor,  when,  without  a  moment's 
warning,  he  shot  (h)wn  the  lialf-breed  hunter,  who  was  advancing  quickly 
in  his  stn*ngth  townnl  liimselfand  Hepburn,  both  enfeebled  by  starva- 
tion, in  (»rder  to  saerilice  ami  feed  upon  them. 

Sir  Ix»opoId  McClintoek  is  home  pre])aring  a  third  edition,  (which 
lias  lw<.-n  c.-dled  U,v  l.y  his  piddisliers)  of  the  Fox  Voyage.     He  thinks 


PreUminanj  Cliapter.  xxi 


liini8elf  most  fortuiuitc  in  aiiticipatiiig  the  discovery  I>y  llir  I':s(|iiiiii;iii\ 
of  the  traces,  as  he  succeeded  in  doing  in  seven  distinct  h)calities  in  lvin<; 
William  Land. — McChntock  thinks  the  leadinp:  article  in  the  Tribune 
gives  a  fair  estimate  of  what  he  has  done;  in  general,  Hall's  researches 
quite  contirm  those  made  by  himself,  i  have  come  to  the  end  of  my 
second  sheet,  and  dare  not  take  a  third. 

Your  faithful  &,  affectionate  friend 

JANE  FRANKLIN 


EEPLY. 

\_Confidential,  with  the  exception  that  Lady  Franklin  can  be  infoiiiied  of  the  isiihstanet!  of  tin; 

letter.— C.  F.  IL] 

Cincinnati,  Dec'  14'*  18C9. 
Mr.  Grinnell 

Dear  Sir: 

Time  and  again  have  I  taken  in  hand  the  subject  matter  of  Lady  FrankUn's 
Letter,  for  the  object  of  giving  full  answer  to  it;  but  in  vain.  I  can  say  in  ti  nth 
that  ever  since  my  arrival  in  the  country  from  my  return  from  my  late  fi\'e  years 
voyage  and  travels  in  the  Arctic  liegions,  1  have  not  had  two  hours  to  myself  in 
which  I  could  sit  down  and  not  be  interrupted  many  times.  I  despair,  at  present, 
of  getting  the  time  to  answer  (as  I  would  like)  the  letter  referred  to;  for  T  am 
bu&ily  flying  here  and  there  on  Lecture  tours.  Lecturing  is  a  curse  to  my  soul, 
for  I  am  far  from  being  that  way  inclined,  and  yet  I  have  had  to  inirsue  it  and 
am  still  head  and  ears  engaged  in  it.  Just  as  soon  as  I  can  get  out  of  the  uncon 
genial  business,  I  shall  do  so ;  and  then  I  do  hope  I  can  get  at  least  suliicient 
time  to  apologize  to  you  and  other  friends  for  the  apparent  long  neglect. 

This  much  I  must  say,  that,  for  years,  I  have  determined  to  undertake  an  Ex 
pedition  to  the  North  Pole  so  soon  as  I  should  become  satisfied  that  there  could 
be  no  siu'vivor  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition.     I  exjjcct  soon  toapply  to  Ttm 
gress  for  aid  in  my  purposed  North  Pole  Expedition.     In  case  of  not  securing  t  lie 
necessary  aid  from  Congress  or  otherwise  for  that  Expedition  (to  commence  next 
spring,)  I  shoidd  then  feel  to  do  whatever  I  could  to  favor  ])ersona]ly  tlic  u(»blc 
aspirations  of  Lady  Franklin:  parenthetically  let  it  be  said,  lliat  no  one  should 
ask  of  me  to  accept  a  sidiordinate  Y>osition  in  an  Arctic  Exjtedition.     If  McCbn 
tock  and  myself  be  Lady  Franklin's  chosen  ones,  we  coidd  be  Co-Commanders  and 
nothing  less. 


xxii  FreUminary  Chapter. 

As  lur  pay  I  slioiiltl  ask  nothing-.    IMy  faitliful  Frank  LaDer,  I  kuow,  would 

Ih'  i.'la(l  to  aiconiiiany  us.     llo  Avill  go  wlicrever  I  desiie,  and  certainly  I  will  feel 

•rlad  to  have  him  Avith  nie  whenever  J  may  go  to  tlie  Arctic  Eegions.    Joe  and 

Hannah,  my  Esquimaux  Interpreters,  I  tliink,  would  accompany  us  also.     They 

M'\\(\  hiM'  to  you  &:  family. 

Yours  ever 

C.  F.  HALL. 

I '.  S.  ^VIlether  I  go  or  not  on  the  proposed  English  Expedition  to  King  W"^'s 
Land,  1  feel  to  do  all  T  ran  in  facilitating  its  jairposes ;  and  will,  therefore,  communi- 
cate such  important  matter  as  1  have  acquired  in  the  North,  so  soon  as  I  can  be 
relieved  from  the  pressure  upon  ray  time. 

'J'Ir-  i»roniise  involved  in  the  last  of  the  j^receding  lines  was  ful- 
filled at  as  early  a  date  as  was  found  practicable.  On  the  lOtli  of 
January,  1871,  he  forwarded  to  Lady  Franklin  two  MSS.,  titled  "Sir 
Julm  Franklin,  with  notes  of  my  voyage  of  1864  to  '69."  The  extracts 
AN  hich  foHuw  from  letters  accompanying  this  packet,  will  confirm  what 
has  heen  said  as  to  his  desire  to  go  out  even  a  third  time  for  the 
Records: 

•  *  •  My  special  respects  to  Miss  Cracroft.  I  trust  I  shall  be  able  to  send 
yf)U  other  matter  relating  to  my  King  William's  Land  Sledge  Journey,  and  sucli 
information  as  will  be  of  use  to  any  one  who  may  make  a  Journey  to  King  W. 
Land.  •  ♦  •  AVhy  is  it  that  I  am  not  still  following  up  that  subject?  Is  it 
linished  ?  Can  more  be  done  in  gaining  intelligence  of  that  most  important  of  all 
Arctic  r:.\peditions?  To  the  first  question  the  answer  cannot  be  satisfactory,  for 
I  hardly  know,  myself,  why  I  was  led  ott*  from  that  almost  holy  mission  to  which  I 
have  devote<l  about  twelve  years  of  my  life,  and  well  on  to  eight  of  these  in  the 
icy  regions  of  the  North.  What  burned  within  my  soul  like  a  living  fire  all  the 
time,  was  tlie  full  laiih  that  I  should  Ihid  some  survivors  of  Sir  John's  memorable 
Kxiiodition  living  among  the  natives,  and  that  I  would  be  the  instrument  in  the 
liand  of  heaven,  ..11  heir  salvation.  15ut  Avhen  I  heard  the  sad  tale  from  living  wit- 
nt'sses  in  the  sining  (.f  I.s(i!>,  l„,w  wickedly  many  survivors  in  the  fall  of  1848  had 
been  abandon. mI  au.l  siitVeiv.l  1..  die,  my  faith,  till  then  so  strong,  was  shaken,  and 
ultimately  \va.s  extinguish..!.  As  to  the  Uecords,  I  believed  they  had  been  care- 
fidly  buri.'d  on  King  William's  Land  before  the  Erebus  and  Terror  Averc  aban- 
doned: ami,  that  if  no  survivor  was  f..un.l,  at  least  those  Kecords  might  be  recov- 
ered. 

•     •     •     (;...!  willing.  1  will  make  t\v.)  m.ne  voyages  to  the  :North,— one  for 


Prelimina ry  Ch aptc r. 


XXI 11 


the  discovery  of  the  regions  to  and  about  the  Pole,  and  the  other  to  obtain  the 
records  of  Sir  Johri's  Expedition,  and  to  obtain  otlicr  inforuiation  tliaii  wliut  [ 
already  i^ossess  relating  to  it.  Had  I  lailed  in  getting  my  Country  intcn^stcd  in 
fitting  out  an  Expedition  for  making  Polar  discoveries,  as  I  told  you  I  would  have 
most  eertainly  [D.  V.)  been  ready  for  the  King  Wm''s  Land  Voyage,  As  the  matter 
now  stands,  I  have  much  reason  to  hope  that  the  North  Polar  Expedition  I  havf, 
the  honor  to  command,  will  accomplish  its  object  and  be  back  to  the  States  in  30 
months  from  the  time  of  leaving  say  from  1st  of  June  next.* 


^The  search  for  the  Records  has  not  boon  wliolly  abandoned  oven  at  this  late  date.  The 
cruises  of  the  Pandora  (now  the  Jeanette,  of  the  Polar  Expedition  of  1879,  under  command  of 
Lieutenant  De  Long,  U.  S.  N.)  made  by  Capt.  Allen  Young  in  1875  and  1876  had  this  search  for 
one  of  their  objects. 

June  19,  1878,  an  expedition  nnder  Lieutenant  Sch-watka,  U.  S.  A.,  was  sent  out  from  New 
York  by  Morison  &  Brown  for  the  same  object.  This  expedition  proposed  to  remain  on  the  field 
of  search  later  in  the  summer  following  than  Hall  found  himself  able  to  do  in  1^09.  Taking  with 
them  Eskimo  Joe  as  guide  and  interpreter,  and  a  force  of  armed  white  men,  they  may  possibly 
secure  something  of  value  of  those  Records,  the  recovery  of  which  has  been  so  long  desired  by 
England  and  by  the  world.  Captain  Barry,  who  took  out  Lieutenant  Schwatka  in  Ihe  Eotheu, 
had  received  on  a  previous  voyage  information  from  the  Neitchille  natives  Avhich  prompted  the 
present  expedition.  He  had  brought  home  with  him  also  a  Franklin  relic,  the  history  of  which  is 
marked  under  the  annexed  drawing.  Messrs.  Morison  &  Brown  presented  it  to  Miss  Cracroft, 
through  the  U.  S.  Naval  Observatory. 


SPOON  BELONGING  TO  SIR  JOHN  FRANKLIN  BROUGHT  FROM  REPULSE  BAY  BY  CAPT.  BARRY,  OF 
THE  WHALER  A.  HOUGHTON,  IN  1877,  FORWARDED  TO  MISS  SOPHIA  CR^VCUOFT,  LONDON 
THE   MENDING  DONE   BY  THE   ESQUIMAUX. 


xxiv  PrtUmiuary  Chapter. 

Full  evidence  is  thus  fouiul  in  Hall's  papers,  especially  in  that, 
])rivate  coiTespondence  which  best  discloses  impulses  and  purposes, 
that  his  "Kescue  and  Research"  was  the  impulse  not  of  a  humane 
feeling  only,  Ijut  of  such  feeling  exercised  towards  those  whom  he  con- 
sidered heroes  in  their  objects  as  well  as  in  their  sufferings.  It  grew 
(.lit  of  his  thuuuhts  of  men  who  had  been  fighting  nature  for  objects 
which  had  enlisted  very  noble  minds; — enticing  fiom  his  home  a 
Franklin  for  the  fourth  time,  and  even  in  his  sixtieth  year.  Hall's  own 
desire  for  participation  in  the  work  of  search  was  quickened  by  the 
fact  that  every  Relief  Expedition  except  McClintock's  had  erred  in  its 
line  of  search,  until  "the  pursuit  was  now  ended,"  as  John  Barrow 
and  others  wrote  him,  "  where  it  should  have  been  begun."  It  does 
not  seem  so  strange,  then,  that  he  should  at  times  have  spoken  of  him- 
self as  "  called"  to  do  something  in  the  work  of  relief  on  which  no  one 
else  was  entering. 

Tn  Li'o  back  to  his  first  appeal,  issued  for  him  to  the  citizens  of 
Cincinnati  in  ixdo,  is  to  cite  what  in  one  form  or  another  disclosed  his 
feelings  throughout  the  whole  remainder  of  his  life. 

Tlic  appeal  read  as  ff>llows  : 

rl  This  is  ro  m!:mokialize  all  lovers  of  Man  and  of  Geogra- 

^"-^  lapliy.   History,  and  Science  to  co-operate  by  all  methods  and 

iiMMii-^  ill  ilicir  1  lower,  to  facilitate  and  assist  onr  fellow  coimtry- 
iiiaii.  Chailes  Francis  Hall  of  Cincinnati,  Oliio,  in  tlie  formation 
"f.  and  lilting  nut  an  American  Expedition,  in  search  of  survivors 
•  'I'  Sir  .l<iiin  I  raiiUlin's  Exploring  party,  consisting  of  138  per- 
-niis.  (inly  L'7  (»r  Nvlioiii  are  known  to  he  dead.  Secondly,  for 
satisra(l<iiily   settling   and  coni]»lcting   the  history  of  the   last 

Franklin  ExiKMlition  :  and  thirdly,  to  promote  and  benefit  the  cause  of  Geogra- 

pliy,  Navigation,  Natural  lli.story  and  Science. 


Preliminary  Chapter.  xxv 

Such  nil  Expedition  with  proper  vessels,  with  eonipcteiit  aixl  cxiieri^'iieed 
Commaiuler,  Ol'lieers  and  Crew,  witli  a  complete  outlit  and  pri»vision  for  lioin  two 
to  three  years  cruise,  to  embark  from  au  Eastern  port  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  and  proceed  via.  Davis  Straits,  Laihu's  Bay,  Lancaster  Sound,  und  W-.n- 
rows  Strait;  thence  from  the  North  <-oast  of  IJoothia  to  commence  the  Search,  ex- 
tending it  to  King-  WiUiam's  Land,  and  the  adjacent  regions,  until  a  thorongli  and 
satisfactory  investigation  shall  have  been  made  of  all  that  portion  of  the  Arctic 
World ;  and  the  humanitarian  object  attained  of  discovering  some  survivor  of  the 
lost  companions  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  or  of  ascertaining  the  ultimate  fate  of  the 
Members  of  that  Expedition,  who,  up  to  this  day  remain  unaccounted  for;  being 
no  less  than  one  hundred  and  eleven  souls,  whose  history,  the  loud  voice  of 
mankind,  from  all  generous  natures,  demands  shall  not  remain  forever  shrouded 
in  oblivion,  while  energetic  intelligence  and  Ameiican  enterprise  can  ho])e  to 
rescue  a  single  survivor,  or  furnish  the  solution  of  their  ultimate  history. 

This  appeal  was  indorsed  by  a  number  of  the  public  men  of  Ohio, 
among  whom  were  Hon.  R.  B.  Haj^es,  the  present  Executive  of  tlie 
United  States ;  the  Governor  of  the  State,  Hon.  AVilliam  Dennison  ; 
Hon.  S.  P.  Chase;  and  the  Mayor  of  Cincinnati,  now  Gov.  R.  ]\I. 
Bishop.  At  the  meeting  which  it  secured,  Hall  exhibited  maps  and 
charts  of  the  Arctic  discoveries  made  by  Sir  John  Franklin,  Dr.  Kane, 
De  Haven,  and  McClintock ;  with  those  of  Ross,  Pany,  Back,  Dease 
and  Simpson,  Richardson,  Rae,  McClure,  Kellet,  Collinson,  Belcher, 
and  others — names  which  carry  us  back  to  the  revival,  under  Sir  John 
Barrow,  of  English  exploration  for  the  Northwest  Passage  to  Asia. 
The  study  of  such  explorations  from  even  a  much  earlier  date  had  made 
Hall  intelligent  in  this  field  ;  it  now  maintained  his  enthusiasm. 

As  introductory,  therefore,  to  the  history  of  his  purposes,  and  id' 
his  work  in  this  Second  Expedition,  some  Tabular  Statements  and 
historical  Maps  have  been  prepared,  in  order  to  present,  in  con- 
nection with  the  now  renewed  public  interest  in  Arctic  Exploration, 


XXVI 


Prelim  'uiarij  Chapter. 


Tlie  Record  in  liriet'; — 

I.  ( )t"  Eiinlisli  and  American*  explorations  for  tlie  Northwest 
Passage  from  tlie  year  1818  to  1845,  when  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedi- 
tion left  England. 

II.  Of  the  Franklin  Relief  Expeditions,  English  and  American, 
from  1848  to  1860,  the  year  of  Hall's  First  Expedition. 

TABLE  No.  I. 
1.  Xaral  expeditions  for  discovering  the  Xorthicest  Passage,  1818 /o  1845. 


Commanders. 


Vessels.       Positions  reached  north  and  west.      Year, 


I.  Caj'i.  ]•.  liiKlian 

Lieut.  John  Franklin 


II.  Cniiiiiiauili  r  John  Eoss. 
I.iiiit.  W.  E.  Parry 


III.  Liiiit.  W.  E.  Pany 

Lieut.  M.  Liddon 


Dorothea . . 
Trent  


>  Long.  11"  W.; 


lat.  80°  37'  N- 


Isahella  . ..  |S  Lancaster  Sound;  long.  84  W. ; 
Alexander .  )      lat.  76°  54'  N. 


IV.  rapt.  W.  E.  Parry. 
(apt.  <;.  r.  Lyon  .. 


V.  Capt.  W.  E.  Parry 

Comniandcrll.  P.  Hoppner.. .. 

VI.  Cai-i.  G.  E.  Lyou 

MI.  Cai-t.  I'.  \V.  iVediy 


Hecla  . 
Griper 

Fury  . . 
Hecla  . 


Hecla . 

Fury 


VIII.  (apt.  .Jdhu  Kotvs 

Li<iit.  .J.'tiucM  C.  Kus-s. 


Gri])or 


Blossom 


Victory 


1  \ .  C'upt.  Cjforgi!  I3a<k Terror 


f  West  coast  of  Melville  Island;^ 
i     long.  113^48' 22"  "W.;  lat.  I 

I     74c  47'  19"  N.  j 


fWhyte  Inlet,  Fury  and  Hecla  ^ 
I     Strait;  long.  84°  52'  W,;  lat.  )> 

I     70°  12'  N.  J 

\  Prince  Regent's  Inlet;  long. 92'  ) 
^      18'  W. ;  lat.  740  28'  13"  N.        ( 

^  Rowc's  Welcome ;   long.  89°  1'  ) 
^      44"  W. ;  lat.  (55°  20'  N.  ( 

^  Bering's  Straits  to  Point  Bar-  } 
i      row,  126  miles  east  of  Icy  Cape. 

fWest  coast  of  Prince  Regent's^ 
j      Inlet  andofBoothia  and  north 
I      coast  of  King  Willi.im's  Land ; 
long.     990    W. ;    lat.    70^    5' 
[     17"  N. 


1818 


1818-'19 


1819-'20 


1831-'23 


Frozen  Strait;  long.  83° 40 
lat.  05°  47'  N. 


'W.;^ 


1824-'25 


1824 


1825-'28 


1829-'33 


1836-'37 


J  ..1   wimc  ciiriouH  noticoA  of /fnimcaM  voyages  for  the  Passage,  made  in  1753,  1754,  1772, 
aud  iM>««ibly  Oil  early  ua  Uuii},  mm  the  clo.se  of  this  chapter. 


Preliminary  Chapter.  xx\ii 


(2.)  EXPLORATIONS  BY  LAND. 

1819-1822.— Capt.  John  Franklin,  with  Dr.  J.  Eiclianlson,  Liciitciiants  I'.acU  and 
Hood;  land  journey  from  York  Factory,  west  side  of  Iliidsdn's  r,av,  t<»  the 
Coppermine  River,  and  from  its  mouth  east  to  l*oint  Turnagain,  hit.  G80  19' 
N.,  long.  109°  25',  a  distance  of  550  miles.  AVliole  joiuiiey  5.500  miles  (see 
for  this  route  Circumpolar  Pocket  Map). 

1825-1827. — Sir  J.  Franklin  explored  the  coast  from  the  moutli  of  Mackenzie's 
Elver  westward  to  Return  Reef,  long.  148°  52',  lat.  70°  20'  N. ;  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson, of  the  same  expedition,  coasting  from  the  mouth  of  tlie  Mackenzie 
east  to  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine.     (Pocket  Map.) 

1833. — Capt.  George  Back,  in  search  of  Sir  John  Ross,  discovered  the  Great  Fish 
River,  descended  it,  and  explored  the  coast  eastwardly  as  far  as  long.  94° 
58'  W.,  lat.  680  13'  N. 

1837-1839. — Messrs.  Dease  and  Simpson,  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, explored  the  coast  from  Mackenzie  River  westward  to  Point  Barrow, 
and  eastward  from  the  Coi>permine  to  Castor  and  Pollux  River,  long.  93°  7' 
W.  This  exploration  supijlemented  Beechey's,  Franklin's,  and  Richardson's 
coastings,  and  thus  completed  the  examination  of  the  coast  line  fiom 
Bering's  Strait  to  long.  93©  7'  W. 

What  remained,  therefore,  in  the  problem  of  the  Northwest  Pas- 
sage was  to  connect  Parry's  furthest  Westing  of  113°  48'  22",  made 
in  1819,  either  with  Bering's  Strait  or  southward  with  Simpson's 
Strait.  To  seek  tlie  passage  westward  to  Bering's  Strait  from  ls\e\- 
ville  Island  seemed  to  the  Admiralty  at  that  day  a  loss  of  time  in  con- 
sequence of  the  unusual  magnitude  and  apparently  fixed  state  of  the 
ice  which  had  been  observed  by  Parry  off  Cape  Dundas. 

But  of  the  western  entrance  to  Simpson's  Strait,  Sir  John  Franklin 
was  accustomed  to  say,  ''If  I  could  only  get  down  tliere  my  work  is 
done ;  it  is  all  plain  sailing  to  the  westward."  In  this  buoyant  liope 
he  left  England  May  19,  1815,  commanding  the  last  expedition  which 


XXV  HI 


Prel'un hiaru  C liapter. 


lias  liad  the  discovery  of  the  Nortliwest  Passage  as  its  direct  object 
His   latest   dispatch   was   dated,    "Whale   Fish  Islands,  west  Coast  of 
Greenland.  Jnlv   VI,   1845."      His  ships  Avere  last  seen  Jul}^  26,  of 
that  year,  by  the  whaler  Prince  of  Wales — moored  to  an  iceberg,  lat. 
74'  AX'  N.,  long.  66°  13'  W. 

THE  EXPEDITION. 


Officers. 

Vessels.              Positions  reached  North  and  West. 

Year. 

C.ipt.  Sir  J.  Franklin,  Com- 
niandiT  J.  Fitzjamos,  Lieut. 
G.  Gore. 

Capt.  F.  K.  M.  Crozier,  Lieut, 
i:.  Little. 

Erebus,    370 
tons,  screw. 

Terror,     340 
tons,  screw. 

'     I.  Up  Wellington  Channel,  150  miles, ' 

to  lat.  770  N.,  long.  99°  W. 

II.  Wintered  at  Beechey  Island,   lat. 

74«^  43'  28"  N.,  long.  91'^  39'  W. 
III.  Thence  west,  and  probably  through  ■- 
Peel  Sound,  to  lat .  70°  05'  N. ,  long. 
98°  23'  W.,  where  the  ships  were 
abandoned  April  22,  1848 ;  one  of 
them  drifting  south. 

1845 
to 

1848 

No  tidings  lia\nng  been  received  from  Franklin  at  the  close  of 
nearly  three  years,  Eelief  expeditions  began  to  be  sent  out  from 
England.  The  chief  of  these  are  stated  in  the  following  tables.  The 
lines  of  search  and  the  chief  localities  examined  in  the  hope  of  find- 
ing tlie  lost  expedition  may  be  traced  on  Circumpolar  Map  No.  I. 
(Pocket.)  The  tables  have  been  aiTanged  to  show  that  the  search  for 
Franklin  was  carried  on  by  expeditions  which,  within  about  the  same 
periods,  vi.sitcd  the  Northern  coasts,  some  from  Bering  Straits  and 
oiImts  jV<iin  IJallinV  llay. — supplemented  by  land  explorations  chiefly 
al<in;_r  the  middle  section  of  the  Continent.  The  Private  Expeditions 
closed  the  .search  f  Table  \)  by  McOlintock's  voyage  of  the  Fox. 


r<^C.J..,..^, 


liun-nu.  K.miMviim  *  IVinfiim. 


Preliminari/  Chapter. 


XXIX 


TAliLE  No.  II. 

English  and  American  Expeditions  for  the  Relief  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  184H-18')'J. 

1.  FROM  THE  "WEST  THROUGH  BERING'S  STRAITS. 


Years. 

Vessels. 

Commanders. 

Lino  of  search  and  coasta 
exaniined. 

1848-'52 

Plover 

c  Commander  Moore 

Through  Bering's  Strait,  be- 
yond Point  Barrow,  to  lat. 
73°  51'  N.,  long.  1G:F  48'  W., 
Avith  a  boat  exi)edition  from 
the  Plover  up  the  Mackenzie 
River  and  east  to  Cape  Ba- 
thurst;  Mr.  R.  Sheddon,  in  j 
his  yacht  "Nancy  Dawson,"  1 
(,     rendering  assistance. 

(  Captain  Maguire 

1848-'49 

Herald 

Captain  Kellett 

f  Discovered  Herald  Island,  and 
J      visited  and  named  a  part  of 
the  land  reported  by  Wran- 
.     gell- 

1850-'55 

1851-'52 

1853 

1853 

1853 

1854 

C  Enterprise 

i  Investigator 

Supply-ships : 

Captain  Collinson 

Coast  of  North  America  from  ' 
Bering's     Strait    to    Dease 
Strait  and  coast   of  Banks 
Land.      Investigator   aban- 
doned June  3,  1853,  in  the 
bay  of  Mercy  on  the  north  | 
coast  of  Banks  Land.   Com- 
mander McClnre  crossed  on 
the  ice  to  Dealy  Island  to  the 
Resolute  and  Intrepid,  and 
returned  across  the  Atlan- 
tic to  England.    Parliament  | 
gave  £10,000  to  him  and  his  ' 
officers. 

Commander  McClure 

Captain  Wellesley 

Ampliitrite 

Rattlesnake 

Diligence 

Trincomalee 

XXX 


Prelim  'marji   Chapter. 


2.  FROM  THE  EAST  THROUGH  BAFFIN'S  BAT. 


Years. 

Vessels. 

Commanders. 

Line  of  search  and  coasts 
examined. 

'  North  and  west  coasts  of  North 

l-4"i-'49 

^  Enterprise 

J  Investigator 

Sir  J.  C.  Ross 

C'ai)tain  Bird    

Somerset.     North  shores  of 
BarroAv  Strait  and  the  shores 
,     of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet. 

1849-'50 

>  North  Star 

(    (Supply  ship.) 

Master  Sannders 

)  Landed   provisions  on  one  of 
^      the  Wollaston  Islands. 

1850-51 

\  Lady  Franklin.. 
J  Sophia  

Captain  Pcnuv.....   ..   . 

f  Coasts  of   Comwallis  Island 
[      and    shores   of   Wellington 
I     Channel. 

Captain  Stewart 

(  Resolnte 

Captain  Austin 

f  South  coasts  of  the  Parry  Isl- 
ands and  the  passages  be- 

,-,.„ „,    1  Assistance 

18o0-'51  {  ^. 

Pioneer  

Intrcnid  

Captain  Ommaney 

tween  them,  northwest  and 
east  coasts  of  Prince  of  Wales 
Island  to  long.  103°  W.,  lat. 

Lieutenant  Osborn 

Lieutenant  Cator 

I     72°  N. 

First     Grinnell     Expedition ; 

1850-'51 

\  Advance 

Lieutenant  De  Haven,  U.  S.  X . . . 

shores  of  Wellington  Chan- 

) Eescue 

Master  Griffin,  U.  S.  N 

nel  ;     discovered     Grinnell 

I 

.     Land. 

'Shores  of  Wellington  Channel 

' 

and  the   coasts  of  Melville 

and  Prince  Patrick  Islands ; 

the    Assistance,     Resolute, 

Pioneer,  and  Intrepid  aban- 

doned August  26,  1854 ;  the 

Resolute  picked  up  at  sea. 

Assistance 

Sir  E.  Belcher 

lat.  04°  40',  long.  01°  30',  Sep- 
tember  11,   1855,   by   Capt. 

Resolnte 

Captain  Kellett 1 

185-2-'54 

'  Pioneer 

James  Buddington,  of  New^ 
London,  Conn. ;  brought  to 

Intrepid  

Lieutenant  McClintoek 

North  Star 

CaptaiTi  PuHen    

the  United  States,  and  pre- 
sented to  England  by  joint 

resolution  of  United  States 

Congress  of  August  28, 1856 ; 

delivered  to  Queen  Victoria 

by  Commander    Hartstcue,  . 

U.  S.  N.,  December  16  of  same 

I     year. 

rreliminary  Ch apter. 


XXXI 


Years. 

Vessels. 

Commanders. 

Line  oC  Mcanli  .-imi  (<(;iMs 
examined. 

1 

Sboresof  Wellington  Channel ; 

landed  stores  at  Cape  IJiley ; 

returned  with  part  of  ]kle- 

185:5 

S  Phoenix 

Commander  Inglefield 

Clure'a  command ;  Lieuten- 

i Breadalbane 

Lientenant  Fawcknor 

1 
1 

1 

ant  Bellot,  of  France,  per- 
ished in  the  ice  August  17, 
185;};  the  ship  lost  at  Cape 
,     Riley  August  21,  1853. 

1853-'55 

Advance 

Dr.  Kane,  U.  S.  N 

\  Second   Grinnell    Expedition, 
^      Smith's  Sound.  Lat.82027'N. 

Returned    to    England    from 

1854 

\  Pliojnix 

Commander  Ingletield 

Beechey  Island  willi  j)art  of 

^  Talbot 

Commander  Jenkins 

]      Belcher's  and  McClure'scom- 
\      mands. 

1855 

\  Release 

Lieutenant  Hartstcne,  U.  S.  N.. 
Lieutenant  Simms,  U.  S.  N 

f  Ships  sent  out  for  the  relief  of 

j      Dr.  Kane;  found  him  on  his 

return  at  Lievely   or  God- 

i  Arctic 

havn,  Greenland. 

(3)  LAND  EXPEDITIONS. 


1848-'49. — Sir  John  Richardson  and  Dr.  Rae  searched  the  coasts  of  North  America  hetAveen  the 

Mackenzie  and  the  Coppermine  Rivers. 
(Dr.  Rae,  under  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  in  1846-'47,  made  a  voyage  of  discovery  from  I'ort 

Churchill  to  the  Gulf  of  Boothia,  surveying  the  Gulf  to  Fury  and  llecla  Strait  on  the  ea.st 

and  Lord  Mayor's  Bay  of  Sir  James  Ross  on  the  west,  determining  there  an  isthmus.) 
1849. — Dr.  Rae  reached  Cape  Krusenstern. 

1849-'51.— Lieut.  W.  J.  S.  Pulleu,  from  the  Plover.     (See  table  No.  II  for  Boat  Expedition.) 
1851.— Dr.  Rae:  coasts  of  WoUastou  Island  and  east  coast  of  Victoria  Land  to  lat.  70°  N.,  long. 

101°  W. 
1853-'54.— Dr.  Rae :  coasts  of  Boothia  Isthmus;  obtained  relics  of  Franklin's  Expedition  Crewarded 

by  vote  of  Parliament). 
1855.— J.  Anderson  and  J.  G.  Stewart:  west  coast  of  Adelaide  Peninsula. 


XXXll 


Prelim iuary  Cliapter. 


(S.)  PRIVATE  EXPEDITIONS  ORGANIZED  TTNT)ER  SUBSCRIPTIONS  BY  SOCIETIES,  BTLADT  FEAlfK- 
LIX,  CAPTAIN  ROSS,  LIEUTENANTS  McCLINTOCK,  YOUNG,  AJS^D  OTHERS. 


Yours. 

Vessels. 

Commanders. 

Line  of  searcb  and  coasts 
examined. 

A  portion  of  Cornwallis  Island. 
[Dr.  E.  A.  Goodsir,  brother  of 

1850-'5l 

S  Felix 

Sir  Jdliu  Koss 

the  surgeon  of  the  Erebus, 

'^  M:iiy 

Coiiuiiiiiulei"  Pliilliu.s  . . . 

in  the -whaler  Advice,  in  1849, 
also   searched   Baffin's   Bay 

and  Lancaster  Sound.] 

Found     Barrow     Strait     and 

Prince  Regent's  Inlet  blocked 

iSoO 

Prince  Albeit 

Commander  Forsvtli 

1 
i 

with  ice;  coasts  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Island  and  North 
Somerset. 

i 

1 

'  Shores  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet 

Prince  Albert 

\  Captain  Kennedy 

and  Bellot  Straits.  Lieuten- 
ant Bellot,  of  France,  -was 
second  in  command. 

1851-'52 

J  Lieutenant  Bellot 

'  Wostenholme,  Whale,  Smith's, 

Jones,        and        Lancaster 

Sounds,   and    Baffin's    Bay. 

1852 

Isabel 

CoiiiinaiKlrr  Iii<4lelield . .... .. 

^  [Captain  Kennedy,  in  1853, 
sailed  in  the  Isabel  for  Be- 

rings  Straits  ;  voyage  aban- 

^     doned  at  Valparaiso.  ] 

Completed    survey    of  North 

Somerset,   Prince  of  Wales 

Island,    Boothia-Felix   Pen- 

insula, and  King  William's 

1857-'59 

Fox 

Captain  McClintock 

Land,  finding  many  relics  of 
Franklin's  Expedition,  and 

obtaining  at  Point  Victory 

the  only  Record  as  yet  recov- 

,,     ered. 

This  last  expedition,  under  McClintock,  brought  from  the  cah-n  at 
I'niiit  \  ictorv,  (Ml  King  William's  Land,  a  tin  cyhnder  containing  the 


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Preliminary  Chapter.  xxxiii 

Record,  of  which  a  fac  simile  is  here  given.     It  is  the  only  official  paper 
as  yet  found  recording  the  fate  of  the  Franklin  Ex2)edition  * 

CHIEF   BENEFICIAL,  RESULTS. 

The  explorations  for  the  discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  and  thoso  sent 
out  for  the  relief  of  Sir  John  Franklin  or  other  absent  explorers,  resulted  in  iIk 
discovery  of  that  great  region  lying  within  the  Arctic  Circle  between  00-  and  IMP 
west  longitude  up  to  Cape  Parry,  71°  23'  west  longitude  and  77°  G'  nortli  latitude ; 
or  from  Davis  Strait  to  Cape  Bathurst;  embracing  Banks,  Prince  Albert,  and 
Prince  Patrick's  Lands,  Melville  Island  and  Sound,  McClintock's  ('lianiic],  Ba- 
thurst Island,  Victoria,  Prince  of  Wales  and  King  William's  Land,  Bootliia  and 
Gulf  of  Boothia,  North  Somerset,  North  Devon,  Melville  Peninsula,  Cockburn 
Island,  Grinnell,  Ellesmere,  and  Washington  Lands,  Lancaster,  Eclipse,  and  Jones 

*  lu  1859  McCliintock  learned  that  the  ships  made  the  passage  to  the  waters  leading  into 
Sinipsou's  Strait.  Franklin's  expedition,  therefore,  discovered  -what  he  sought,  lie  had  dic<l  on 
board  the  Erebus  June  11,  1847. 

The  Eoyal  Geographical  Society,  in  awarding  in  1860  the  Founder's  gold  medal  to  Lady 
Franklin,  affirmed  that  in  placing  the  Erebus  and  the  Terror  in  the  position  of  lat.  70°  05',  long  98^ 
23',  "the  Franklin  Expedition  had  firmly  established  the  existence  of  a  Northwest  Passage." 
Lieutenant  Gore's  party,  sent  out  by  Franklin  from  his  ship  May  24, 1847,  had,  in  fact,  in  all  proba- 
bility, reported  to  him  before  his  death  that  the  waters  of  the  North  and  the  South  were  united 
by  a  passage  between  his  ships  and  Dease  and  Simpson's  Strait.  The  discovery  was  unknown 
until  the  return  of  the  Fox,  six  years  after  the  award  to  Sir  E.  McClure  and  his  officers,  as  tho 
first  to  cross  from  the  Pacific  to  tho  Atlantic. 

A  Monument  costing  £2,000,  erected  in  1860  in  Waterloo  Place,  bears  the  inscription : 

FRANKLIN. 

TO   THE   GREAT  NAVIGATOK 

AND    HIS    BRAVE    COMPANIONS 

WHO     SACRIFICED     THEIR     LIVES 

COMPLETING  THE   DISCOVERY   OF 

THE   NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 

A.  D.  1&47-48. 

ERECTED   IJY  THE   UNANIMOUS   VOTE 

OF   PARLIAMENT. 

This  statue,  voted  by  the  nation,  was  unveiled  in  the  presence  of  the  First  Lord  of  the 

Admiralty,  Sir  J.  Pakington,  and  of  the  distinguished  Arctic  explorers  and  geographers,  Colliu- 

8in,  Ommaney,  Sabine,  Murchison,  Osborn,  and  Rawlinson,  Mr.  John  Barrow,  Mr.  Arrowsmith, 

and  of  others,  with  Lady  Franklin.     She  declared  the  likeness  of  her  husband  excellent  and 

S.  Ex.  27 III 


xxxiv  Preliminary  Chajyter. 

Sounds,  Wellington  Channel,  Kellett,  Barrow  Straits,  Franklin  Straits,  Peel,  Sir 
James  Eoss,  and  the  Fiuy  and  Hecla  Straits,  Eegent's  Inlet,  and  tlie  discovery  in 
1833,  by  Sir  James  Ross,  of  the  north  magnetic  pole.  (Judge  Daly,  pres.  of  Am. 
Geog.  Soc,  in  Jolinston's  Cyclopedia,  1S7G.)     See  Circumpolar  Pocket  Maj)  and 

Map  Xo.  U. 

In  a  very  courteous  letter  received  since  the  preparation  of  this 
Narrative  was  begun.  Admiral  Sir  F.  L  McClintock,  K  N.,  estimates 
the  ag-gregate  amount  of  moneys  expended  by  England  in  these  North- 
west Passage  explorations  at  £272,000,  and  of  those  expended  in  the  re- 
lief expeditions,  at  £f)75,000 ;  with  the  additions  made  by  private  parties 
of  £35,000.  Of  this  last  sum  a  large  proportion  was  from  Lady  Frank- 
lin's purse. 

The  aggregate  of  moneys  expended  by  American  exploring  and 
relief  expeditions,  chiefly  from  private  subscriptions,  exceeds  the  sum 
of  8250,000.  The  amount  appropriated  by  the  United  States  Con- 
gress for  Dr.  Kane's  Expedition  was  8150,000. 

Admiral    McClintock   further  writes   that  the  number  of  miles 

traversed  by  sledge  expeditions  only,  over  ice  or  land,  is  about  43,000. 

In  answer  to  the  request  that  he  would  express  his  views  in  regard 

characteristic.  He  is  represented  as  informing  his  oflScei-s  and  crew  that  the  Northwest  Passage 
lia-s  heen  discovered.     A  panel  represents  Crozier  reading  the  funeral  service  over  Franklin  in  1847. 

In  1^75  a  beautiful  Monument,  ordered  by  Lady  Franklin,  was  inspected  before  her 
d«  atl),  and  placed  iji  tlic  same  year  in  Westminster  Abbey.  It  is  of  CaiTara  marble,  having  iu 
ba.s  relief  an  ice-bound  shiji,  and  the  inscription: 

"O  yo  frost,  aud  cold !  O  ye  ice  aud  snow, 
Blt'89  ye  the  Loi'd ! 

Frillfiwcil  by  TfUiiysoii's  lines:' 

Xot  liere:  tlie  white  North  has  thy  bones,  and  thou 

Ucroic  Sailor  Soul ! 
Art  pu88in^  on  thy  happier  v(iyaj|;e  now 

Toward  no  Karthly  Pole. 

Erected  by  his  widow,  wbo,  alt<T  Icjiig  waitings  aii<l  sending  many  in  search  of  him,  herself  de- 
parted to  lind  bini  in  tlie  realms  of  life." 


Preliminarij  Chapter. 


XXXV 


to  the  gain  to  commerce,  to  science,  or  to  navsil  impulse  Ijy  i^ii*rlaiid's 
work  for  tlie  Northwest  Passage  and  the  Relief  expeditions,  he  sa3s: 

Tliis  doubtless  has  been  very  great;  to  wluiliiig  coinmercc  it  has  oiicucd  up 
all  to  the  north  and  west  of  Davis  Strait  and  Hudson  Strait ;  also  to  the  nortli 
of  Behring's  Strait.  The  value  of  these  fisheries  alone  amounts  to  xcry  iininy 
millions  sterling  into  the  pockets  of  English  and  American  traders.  The  scien- 
tific results  are  very  varied  and  ample  in  almost  every  department,  and  ])eculiarly 
so  in  magnetism,  meteorology,  the  tides,  geographical  discoveries,  geology,  botany, 
and  zoology,  as  shown  by  the  general  advance  in  each  branch.  Upon  na\al  im- 
pulse the  influence  has  been  tridy  great;  we  conld  man  an  expedition  witli  Ku- 
giish  naval  officers ;  and  abroad  we  have  seen  Germans,  Austrians,  Swedes,  Nor- 
wegians, and  this  year  Dutchmen,  induced  to  take  part  in  the  work  of  Arctic 
exploration. 

The  problem  of  the  Northwest  Passage  is  no  longer  one  of  prac- 
tical utility.  Science  has  ceased  to  expect  from  its  discovery  the  ad- 
vantages for  commerce  and  navigation  the  hope  of  which  stimulated 
the  explorers.  The  northeast  passage  around  Asia,  successfully  prose- 
cuted in  the  years  1878-79,  by  Professor  Nordenskiold,  promises  large 
rewards  in  the  interests  of  science  and  of  commerce.  The  cereals,  the 
graphite,  ivory,  and  other  products  of  the  Asiatic  Arctic  seaboard  are 
akeady  coming  into  the  European  markets.  Lieutenant  Payer,  of  the 
German  North  Polar  Expedition  of  1869,  has  justly  said  of  the  whole 
Polar  question  that  "as  a  problem  of  science  it  aims  at  determining 
limits  of  land  and  water,  at  perfecting  that  network  of  lines  with  wliich 
comparative  science  seeks  to  surround  our  planet  even  to  the  Pole,  the 
discovery  of  the  physical  laws  which  regulate  climates,  the  currents  of 
the  atmosphere  and  the  sea,  and  the  analogies  of  geology  with  the  earth 
as  we  see  it." 


xxx-N-iii  Preliminary  Chapter. 

4.  J>ir  John  Eoss  :  the  w  hale-flslieiy  of  the  North,  aud  northwest  of  Bafiiu's 
Bay.* 

5.  Captain  Parry  :  Avhak- fishery  of  Lancaster  Sound,  Barrow  Strait,  and 

Prince  Ee^rent's  Inlet. 

(i.  Admiral  Beechey  :  whale-fishery  of  Bering's  Straits,  in  which  in  the 
space  of  two  years  the  whalers  of  Nantucket  and  New  Bedford  obtained  cargoes 
from  which  it  is  said  they  have  realized  eight  millions  of  dollars. 

To  these  statements  of  results  may  be  added  with  interest  the  fact 
that  the  h^ss  of  Hfe  has  been  remarkably  small.  The  number  of  deaths 
occurring  on  board  of  all  the  ships  of  all  the  public  and  private  expedi- 
tions sent  for  tlie  relief  of  Franklin  and  on  those  engaged  in  later  Arctic 
explorations  up  to  tlie  year  1873  has  not  exceeded  one  and  seven-tenths 
l)er  cent,  of  the  officers  and  men  employed.  At  the  meeting  of  the 
Roval  Geographical  Society  in  1865,  Lieutenant  Maury  remarked  that 
tlie  wreck-charts  of  the  British  Isles  for  the  previous  year  showed  greater 
loss  tluui  did  the  forty  years  of  Arctic  exploration,  1819-59. 

The  accompanying  map.  No.  II,  shows  the  unexplored  regions  at 
the  date  of  1818,  geographical  discoveries  subsequent  to  that  date 
being  inclosed  within  the  red  lines.  Circumpolar  Map  No.  I  (to  be 
tMuiid  ill  tlic  })ock('t  of  the  volume)  has  been  prepared  to  show  the  chief 
li.calitics  \isit('(l  by  the  officers  named  in  the  preceding  tables.     A  few 

On  the  map  accompanyiug  Hon.  Daines  Barrington's  "Possibility  of  Api)roaching  the 
Nortli  role,"  imMislicd  in  London  In  181ri,  "  BalKin's  Bay"  will  bo  found  to  bavc  upon  it  the  words 
'•a<-c«»rding  In  the  r<-latioii  of  W.  Badin  in  IfiKI,  bnt  nol  now  hclievcd."  The  facts  of  this  case  aro 
that  I'urchaH  nn]iar(h>nably  oniittt-d  pnblishing  the  map  bionght  back  by  the  truthful  old  uav- 
i;^ator,  baying  that  "  tlie  Tables  of  liis  .Journal  and  sayling  were  too  costly  to  insert."  As  the  con- 
wfpienre  iif  thus  dis(T<<lit  ing  Bailin,  no  wluilerever  visited  the  "North  Water  "of  his  bay  for  two 
hundred  years.  Tlie  Dutch  ojiened  a  whale-lishery  in  Davis  Strait  in  1719,  making  net  prolita 
during  th<'  jxTiixl  of  17111-1778  of  nearly  £'J00,0()O. 

In  If'l-  Capl.  .John  Jioss  found  IJaflin's  relations  to  be  accurate  aud  his  skeleton  chart  the 
hafe  guide  of  a  worthy  .and  able  navigator.  Ross  found  the  whales  large,  numerous,  aud  easily 
approached.  He  reportc.l  that  the  libherles  might  be  jiursned  with  great  success.  This  was  the 
fruit  of  the  litHt  expedition  for  the  Northwest  Passage. 


^y,    ATt  </Trc    jt,„  ^ 


Circumpolar  Map  No,  II  (Geographical  D 


Preliminary  Chapter.  xxxix 

other  localities  and  names  have  also  been  marked  on  the  Eastern  and 
the  Western  hemispheres,  and  the  Northern  Asiatic  coast-line  is  noted 
as  corrected  by  Nordenskiold,  1878-79. 


EARLY    AMEEICAN    VOYAGES    FOR    THE    NORTHWEST    PASSAGE. 

It  is  of  interest  to  note  at  what  early  dates  in  our  colonial  history 
citizens  of  Pennsylvania,  New  York,  and  Virginia  shared  in  these 
explorations.  The  following  letter  from  Dr.  Franklin  is  in  proof  The 
oiiginal  was  presented  by  Hon.  George  Bancroft  to  Mr.  Grinnoll.  Mr. 
Bancroft  refers  to  it  in  his  History  of  the  United  States,  vol.  iv,  p.  141. 
The  extracts  which  follow  the  letter  have  been  taken  from  the  files  of 
"The  Pennsylvania  Gazette,  found  in  the  Mercantile  Library,  Phila- 
delphia.    The  letter  of  William  Allen  is  from  the  Penn  Papers  of  the 

Pennsylvania  Historical  Society, 

Philadelphia  Feh'^  28'",  1753. 
*  *  *  I  believe  I  have  not  before  told  you,  that  I  have  provided  a 
subscription  here  of  £1.500  to  fit  out  a  vessel  in  search  of  a  North  West  passage. 
She  sails  in  a  few  days,  and  is  called  the  Argo,  commanded  by  M^  Svraine,  wlio 
was  in  the  last  Expedition  in  the  California  and  author  of  a  Journal  of  that  voy- 
age in  2  Volumes.  We  think  the  attempt  laudable,  whatever  may  be  the  success. 
If  she  fails,  "  magnis  tamen  excidit  ausis." 
With  great  esteem, 

BENJ.  FEANKLEST. 

Mr.  Cadwalader  Colden,  N.  Y. 

Of  this  voyage  the  Pennsylvania  Gazette,  "printed  for  IVnijaniiii 
Franklin,  postmaster,  and  D.  Hall,"  November  15,  1753,  says: 

Sunday  last,  arrived  here  the  Schooner  Argo,  Captain  Charles  Swaiiie,  wlio 
sailed  from  this  Port  last  Spring  on  the  Discovery  of  a  North  AVest  Passage.  She 
fell  in  with  the  Ice  of  Cape  Farewell ;  left  the  Eastern  Ice,  and  fell  in  with  the 
Western  Ice,  in  Lat.  58^,  and  cruised  to  the  Northward  to  Lat.  63°,  to  clear  it.  but 


xl  Prelimmary  Chapter. 

could  not;  it  tbeii  extend iiiji'  to  tlie  Eastward.  On  her  return  to  the  Southward, 
she  met  with  two  Danish  Ships  bound  to  ]>all  Kiver  and  Disco,  up  Davis'  Straits, 
who  had  been  in  the  Ice  fourteen  Days  off  Farewell,  and  had  then  stood  to  West- 
ward, and  assured  the  Commander  that  the  Ice  was  fast  to  the  Shore,  all  above 
Hudson's  Straits  to  the  distance  of  forty  Degrees  out;  and  that  there  had  not  been 
such  a  severe  Winter  as  the  last  these  24  Years  that  they  had  used  that  Trade ; 
they  had  been  nine  Weeks  from  Copenhagen.  The  Argo,  finding  she  could  not 
get  round  the  Ice,  i)ressed  through  it  and  got  into  the  Strait's  Mouth  the  26th  of 
June,  and  made  the  Island  Eesolution,  "but  was  forced  out  by  vast  quantities  of 
driving  Ice,  and  got  into  a  clear  Sea  the  1st  of  July.  On  the  14th,  cruising  the 
Ice  for  an  opening  to  get  in  again,  she  met  4  Sail  of  Hudson's  Bay  Ships,  endeav- 
oring to  get  in,  and  continued  with  them  till  the  19th,  when  they  parted  in  thick 
Weather,  in  Lat.  62  and  a  half,  which  thick  Weather  continued  to  the  7th  of  August. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Men  supi)osed  themselves  40  Leagues  from  the  Western  Land. 
The  Argo  ran  down  the  Ice  from  63°  to  57°  30',  and,  after  repeated  attempts  to 
enter  the  Straits  in  vain,  as  the  Season  for  discovery  on  the  Western  Side  of  the 
Bay  was  over,  she  went  on  the  Labrador  Coast,  and  discovered  it  perfectly  from 
b&^  to  55°,  finding  no  less  than  six  Inlets,  to  the  Heads  of  all  of  which  they  went, 
and  of  which  we  hear  they  have  made  a  very  good  Chart,  and  have  a  better 
Account  of  the  Country,  its  Soil,  Produce,  &c.,  than  has  hitherto  been  published. 
The  Captain  says  'tis  much  like  Xorway,  and  that  there  is  no  communication 
with  Hudson's  Bay  through  Labrador  where  one  has  been  heretofore  imagined,  a 
higli  Kidge  of  Mountains  running  Xorth  and  South  about  50  Leagues  within  the 
Coast.  In  one  of  the  Harbors  they  found  a  deserted  wooden  House  with  a  brick 
Chimney  which  had  been  built  by  some  English,  as  appeared  by  Sundry  Things 
they  left  behind :  and  afterwards  in  another  Harbor  they  met  with  Captain  Goff 
in  a  Snow*  from  London,  who  informed  them  that  the  same  Snow  had  been  there 
last  Year,  and  landed  some  of  the  Moravian  Brethren  who  had  built  that  House ; 
but  the  Natives  having  decoyed  the  then  Captain  of  the  Snow,  and  five  or  six  of 
his  Hands,  in  their  Boat  round  a  Point  of  Land  at  a  Distance  from  the  Snow, 
under  im-tence  of  Trade,  and  carried  them  all  off  (they  having  gone  imprudently 
witlioMt  Anns),  tlu;  Snow  after  waiting  sixteen  Days,  without  hearing  of  them, 
went  Home  and  was  obliged  to  take  away  the  Moravians  to  help  to  work  the 
Vessel.  Part  of  the  Business  this  Year  was  to  Enquire  after  those  Men.  Cap- 
tain Swaine  discovered  a  tine  fishing  Bank,  which  lies  but  six  Leagues  off  the 


•A  Ihrcc-masted  vcBsel,  the  third  mast,  abaft  the  mainmast,  carrying  a  trysail. 


Preliminary  Chapter.  xli 

Coast,  and  extends  from  Lat.  57°  to  54°,  supposed  to  be  the  sainc  hinn d  ;ii  in 
Captain  Davis's  Second  Voyage.  ISTo  bad  Accident  liai)]K'iKMl  to  the  \'rss«I,  and 
the  men  kept  in  perfect  health  during  the  whole  Voyage  and  returned  all  well. 

11.  Not  satisfied  with  the  results  of  this  attempt,  Captain  Swainc 
again  sailed  in  the  Argo,  the  following  spring,  and  the  l*eniisyl\  ania 
Journal  and  Weekly  Advertiser  of  Thursday,  October  24,  1754,  ]iiil>- 
lished  in  Philadelphia,  says  : 

On  Sunday  last  arrived  here  the  Schooner  Argo,  Capt.  Swainc,  who  was 
fitted  out  in  the  Spring,  on  the  discovery  of  a  IsT.  W.  Passage,  but  having  three  of 
his  Men  killed  on  the  Labrador  Coast,  returned  without  success. 

The  Gazette  also  says  : 

On  Sunday  last  arrived  here  the  schooner  Argo  from  a  second  Attempt  of 
a  Discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  but  without  success. 

A  full  "Extract  from  a  Journal  of  this  voyage  of  1753"  will  be 
found  in  the  quarto  volume  on  "The  Great  Probability  of  the  North- 
west Passage,"  edited  by  Thomas  Jefferys,  Geographer  to  the  King, 
London,  1768.  It  embraces  22  pages  of  Jefferys'  Quarto  Treatise. 
In  the  extract  will  be  found  also  the  statement  that  a  Captain  Taylor, 
in  a  sloop  of  about  thirty-five  tons,  was  met  with  July  9,  1 75."<,  in 
the  same  waters  somewhere  in  about  lat.  56°  and  long.  56°  42',  which 
sloop  had  been  fitted  out  from  Rhode  Island  to  go  in  pursuit  of  a  North- 
west Passage,  and  if  not  successful  to  come  down  on  the  coast  of 
Labrador. 

In  Jefferys'  volume,  p.  xi,  will  also  be  found  the  following : 
The  voyage  of  1752  was  made  from  Philadelphia  in  a  schooner  of  about  sixty 
tons,  and  fifteen  persons  aboard,  fitted  out  on  a  subscription  of  the  merchants  of 
Maryland,  Pennsylvania,  New  York,  and  Boston,  on  a  generous  plan,  agreeable  to 
proposals  made  them,  with  no  view  of  any  monopoly  which  they  opposed,  not  to  inter- 
fere with  the  Hudson's  Bay  trade,  or  to  carry  on  a  clandestine  trade  with  the  natives 
of  Greenland,  but  to  discover  a  Northwest  Passage  and  explore  the  Labrador 
coast,  at  that  time  supposed  to  be  locked  up  under  a  pretended  right,  and  not 


xlii  Prelimhiarji  Chapter. 

liequented  V)y  the  subjects  of  England,  but  a  successful  trade  carried  on  by  the 
French ;  to  open  a  trade  there,  to  improve  the  fishery  and  the  whaling  on  these 
coasts,  fultivate  a  friendship  Mith  the  natives,  and  make  them  serviceable  in  a 
l>olitical  way,  wliich  design  of  theirs  of  a  publick  nature,  open  and  generous,  was 
in  a  great  measiiic  defeated  by  itrivate  persons  interfering,  whose  views  were 
niort'  contracted. 

They  did  not  succeed  the  first  year  as  to  their  attempt  in  discovering  a 
Nurt Invest  Passage,  as  it  was  a  great  year  for  ice;  that  it  would  be  late  in  the 
ye;ir  liefore  the  western  part  of  Hudson's  liay  could  be  attained  to,  and  then  im- 
possible to  explore  the  Labrador  that  year,  therefore  the  first  part  of  the  design 
was  droi)i)ed,  and  the  Labrador  was  explored.  The  next  year  a  second  attempt 
was  made  as  to  a  i»assage  ;  but  three  of  the  people  who  went  beyond  the  place 
appointed  1)y  their  orders,  and  inadvertently  to  look  for  a  mine,  [samples of  which 
liad  been  carried  home  the  year  before,  and  this  at  the  instigation  of  a  private 
person  liefore  they  set  out  from  home,  without  the  privity  of  the  commander,] 
were  killed  by  Eskimaux,  and  the  boat  taken  from  them.  After  which  accident, 
with  some  disagreeable  circumstances  consequent  thereon  amongst  the  schooner's 
company,  and  after  an  experiment  made  of  their  disinclination  to  proceed  on  any 
further  discovery,  it  was  thought  most  prudent  to  return.  This  short  account 
is  gi\en  by  the  person  mIio  commanded  in  this  affair  to  prevent  any  misrepre- 
sentation hereafter  of  what  was  done  on  these  voyages. 

The  last  three  hnes  of  this  paragraph  point  probably  to  an  item 
ill  tlie  tVdlowing"  curious  letter  from  the  chief  merchant  of  Philadelphia 
of  tliat  (lay,  and  the  chief  "undertaker"  of  the  voyage  of  1752. 

Litter  from  Will.  Allen,  merehanf,  (oid,  at  a  later  date,  Chief  Justice  of  the  Province 
of  Penmylvania,  to  the xnoprietarij  Thomas  Penn. 

Philadelphia,  Xor.  ISth,  1753. 
Siii  :  As  I  am  quite  assmed  that  everything  that  regards  the  interest  and 
reputation  ol  tiie  I'ro\iiice  of  Pennsylvania  will  ever  be  regarded  by  you,  1  there- 
ton-  ])i"^  leave  t<»  solicite  your  favor  in  behalf  of  myself  and  many  other  merchants 
of  this  )»hice.  Notwithstanding  the  rei)eated  attempts  of  Gentlemen  in  England 
to  discover  th«'  Nortli\v<'st  Passage  without  success,  yet  there  has  api)eared 
aiiionir  us  a  spirit  to  undertake  tliat  noble  design,  which  if  eftected  will  redound 
to  tin-  lionoiir  ol  your  j)rovince  and  to  the  advantage  of  us  the  undertakers. 


Preliminary  Chapter. 


xliu 


By  the  inclosed  papers,  over  which  you  will  be  pleased  to  cast  your  <•>(>, 
you  will  perceive  that  last  year  we  had  intended  to  i>ut  our  desi<,ni  in  «'.\«<ution, 
but  by  the  extremity  of  the  Aviuter  and  other  accidents  it  was  jiostponcd  to  tlir 
next  year,  at  which  time,  as  we  have  bought  a  vessel  and  all  other  material,  and 
engaged  a  navigator  and  mariners  here,  we  shall  proceed  iu  the  allaii-,  and  \Wa- 
patch  the  vessel  from  here  the  latter  end  of  IMarcli,  andare  in  great  lioix-s,  by 
avoiding  mistakes  of  former  attemirts,  and  imrsuing,  as  we  tliink,  moic  ]»roj)«'r 
measures,  to  be  able  to  effect  the  discovery  of  the  passage,  or,  at  least,  i)ut  it  out 
of  doubt  whether  there  is  one  or  no.     We  have  been  the  more  encouraged  in  this 
attempt  by  the  consideration  that,  in  case  our  search  for  the  passage  should  be 
fruitless,  we  might  strike  out  a  lucrative  trade  with  the  coast  of  Lal)rador;  but 
we,  to  our  great  surprise,  are  informed  we  are  like  to  be  dej)rived  of  the  proposed 
trade  by  means  of  a  scoundrel  of  a  parson,  one  James  Sterling,  who  last  sum- 
mer took  his  passage  to  London,  and  there  represented  the  advantage  of  the 
trade  to  the  Labrador  coast  in  such  a  light  to  Messrs.  Ilanbury,  IJucliaiuuj,  and 
others,  that  it  is  said  they  have  applied  to  the  Crown  for  an  exclusive  i)atent. 
This  same  Sterling,  who  is  a  Church  of  England  minister  at  I^ewtown,  Md., 
was  concerned  with  us  in  the  original  undertaking,  and  subscribed  to  bear  ])art 
of  the  expense  j  but  after  he  had  by  frequent  conversations  extracted  from  the 
person  we  chiefly  depend  ui^on  for  executing  the  design,  all  or  chief  ]>art  of  tlie 
intelligence  that  he  could  give,  he  has  been  base  enough  to  endeavour  to  circum- 
vent us.    As  a  proof  of  that  I  assert,  I  here  enclose  his  original  letter,  wrote  with 
his  own  hand,  to  Mr.  Benjamin  Franklin.     We  have  also  here  our  paper  of  sub- 
scription for  the  carrying  on  of  the  undertaking,  signed  by  the  said  Sterling ; 
notwithstanding  which,  as  I  said  before,  he  made  a  voyage  to  London,  and  for 
his  discovery  and  the  proposals  he  laid  before  the  above  Gentlemen,  lie  has, 
though  a  parson,  been  rewarded  with  a  collectorship  of  the  customs  at  the  head  of 
the  bay.     We  conceive  ourselves  very  ill  used  by  this  false  brother ;  have  there- 
fore presented  a  petition  to  His  Majesty,  which  comes  herewitli,  praying  that 
no  patent  for  an  exclusive  trade  be  granted,  which  is  humbly  submitted  to  yoiu- 
consideration,  and  I  am  desired  to  request  that  you  will  please  to  get  it  presented 
if  you  judge  it  will  answer  any  good  end.    The  expense  attending  the  sollicitation, 
&c.,  I  will  take  care  of,  with  thanks  to  discharge.    Yoiu-  kind  interposition  in  our 
behalf  will  confer  a  favor  on  many  of  the  most  considerable  merchants  of  this 
place,  and  j)articularly  on 

Your  most  obedient  humble  servant, 

WILL.  ALLEN. 


xliv  PreUmhiary  Chapter. 

A    VOYAGE    FROM    VIRGINIA 1772. 

The  Gentlemen's  Magazine,  published  in  London,  November, 
1772.  says : 

By  a  letter  from  James  Wilder,  captain  of  the  Diligence,  fitted  out  by  sub- 
scription in  Virginia  ^\  ith  a  \  icw  to  the  discovery  of  the  long  sought  for  North- 
west Passage,  it  appears  by  the  course  of  the  tides  there  is  a  passage,  but  that 
it  is  seldom  or  never  open,  and  he  believes  impassable.  He  sailed  as  high  as  09° 
11'  and  discovered  a  large  bay  before  unknown. 

The  American  Quarterly  Review  of  1828  refers  to  this  voyage; 

also,  Scoresby,  in  his  Account  of  the  Arctic  Regions,  and  Macpherson, 

in  Ills   Annals  of  Commerce,  vol.  iii.     Contributions  in  sums    of  £5 

and  ui)ward  were  made  for  it  in  New  York. 

A  VOYAGE  REPORTED  TO  HAVE  BEEN  MADE  IN  1639  FROM  BOSTON. 

Hall  had  notes  of  a  strangely-reported  expedition  from  Boston 

in  1039,  against  which  the  Viceroys  of  New  Spain  and  Peru  were  said 

to  have  dispatched  Admiral  de  Fonte.     These  notes  will  be  found  in 

Jeffer^'s'  work  already  referred  to.     Snow's  History  of  Boston  treats 

tlie  story  of  the  Admiral  as  a  myth,  made  up  by  the  Magnalia.     But 

Ellis,  ill  his  Voyage  of  the  Dobbs  and  California,  says : 

It  is  not  at  all  impossible  that  either  to  this,  or  some  other  Expedition  un- 
<1«  itakcn  frcjm  Boston,  the  present  Hudson's  Bay  Company  owe  that  Discovery 
which  i)i(»<luced  their  Charter,  and  put  them  in  Possession  of  those  Places  in  that 
Bay.  in  which  they  have  Settlements  at  present.  Mr  Jeremie,  who  was  Governor 
ai  I'lui  Nelson  while  it  was  in  the  Hands  of  the  French,  and  who  without  doubt, 
ha<[  licttcr  ()|)i)oitunities  of  knowing  the  Matters  of  which  he  writes  than  most 
other  1  'eople,  gives  us  this  account  of  the  INIatter.  He  says,  that  one  M:  de  Groise- 
h'iz,  an  inhaltitant  of  Canada,  a  bold  and  enterprising  nmn  and  one  who  had  trav- 
elled iiiiK-li  in  those  j)aits.  ])nslie(l  his  Discoveries  at  length  so  far,  that  he  reached 
the  Coasts  of  Hudson's  Bay,  from  the  French  Settlements  bj' Land.  Upon  his 
Bet  mil,  he  jirevailed  ujum  some  of  his  Countrymen  at  Quebeck  to  fit  out  a  Bark 
loi   jjerfecting  this  Discovery  by  Sea;  which  being  done,  and  he  landing  upon 


Preliminary  Chapter. 


XI V 


the  Coast  where  he  apprehended  no  European  had  been  before,  was  amii/rd  in 
the  very  Depth  of  Wiutei,  lo  hear  that  some  of  his  Com])any  had  «lisc()\ cicd  an 
English  settlement,  as  they  Avere  pleased  to  eall  it  near  Port  Nelson.  He  v.oni 
thither  with  a  Design  to  attack  it;  but  at  his  Arrival  found  ii  a  jx.oi miscialilc 
Cottage  covered  with  Turf,  in  which  were  half  a  Dozen  half  star\('<l  Wictclics, 
without  Arms,  and  without  Strength  to  use  them  if  they  had  had  any.  'lUrsv. 
People  told  him  that  they  were  Part  of  a  Ship's  Crew  from  Boston,  that  they  were 
set  on  Shore  to  look  for  a  Place,  where  the  Ship  to  which  they  belonged  might 
Winter ;  and  that  the  next  Morning  the  Ice  drove  the  Ship  out  of  the  Port,  which 
they  never  saw  more.  As  we  have  no  Date  to  this  Relation,  it  is  impossibh'.  to 
say  whether  it  was  that  Ship  from  Boston  mentioned  in  de  Fonte's  Account  or 
not;  but  if  it  was,  and  the  Crew  perished  as  very  probably  they  might  in  this 
inhospitable  Country,  it  affords  a  clear  and  easy  Solution  of  that,  otherwise  mi- 
answerable  Difliculty,  as  to  Captain  Shapley's  making  such  a  Voyage,  and  so 
considerable  a  Discovery,  without  its  coming  to  be  known  either  in  X.  England, 
or  in  Old.  But  if  we  should  be  wrong  in  this  Conjecture,  it  would  still  remain  an 
incoutestible  Proof  that  some  Attempts  were  made  from  Boston,  Avhcn  they  were 
laid  aside  and  forgot  at  London  &  Bristol. 

[The  voyage  was  j)robably  for  trading  purposes  only.] 


PRINCIPAL      ENGLISH      ARCTIC     PUBLICATIONS     BETWEEN     THE      YEARS      1818 

AND    1860. 

Hall's  journals  and  correspondence  show  that  he  had  access  to 
the  larger  number  of  the  following-named  authorities.  It  a])pears 
also,  in  his  notes  and  by  a  letter  from  Mrs.  Hall,  that  his  library — a 
total  loss  on  his  Polaris  voyage — included  many  of  them ;  some  }  (re- 
sented and  others  loaned  to  him  by  his  New  York  friends.  He  liad 
specially  noted  the  ''  Record  of  Am'oral  Phenomena"  observed  by  Arc- 
tic voyagers  from  1746  to  1856,  compiled  by  the  late  Peter  Force,  of 
Washington.     [Smithsonian  Contributions,  vol.  viii,  1856.] 

The  hst  of  authorities  which  follows  includes  Hall's  volumes  and 
others  consulted  in  preparing  this  chapter. 


xhi  PreUmlnary  Chapter. 

I.  Chief  Arctic  Authorities  from  the  revival  of  Arctic  exploration,  1818  to  1845. 

Barrow,  Sii-  John.  "A  Cliroiiological  Listoiy  of  A'oyages  undertaken  chiefly  for 
the  i)urpose  of  discovering  a  X.  E.,  N.  W.,  or  Polar  Tassage  between  the 
Atlantic  and  the  I'acific.  8°.  London,  1818."  [This  volume  contains  a 
s^^lopsis  of  the  ^ oyages  made  from  the  early  periods  of  Scandinavian  na^i- 
gation  to  the  revival  of  the  search  for  the  passage  under  Buchan  and  Boss, 
1818.  The  chief  voyages  of  modern  dates  summarized  are  those  of  Colum- 
bus (1102),  the  Cabots  (1197),  the  Cortereals  (1502),  Cartier  (1534),  Wil- 
loughby  (1553),  Bun-oughs  (1556),  Frobisher  (1576-'78),  Pet  and  Jackman 
(1580),  Gilbert  (1583),  Davis  (1585),  Barents  (1594-'97),  Jas.  Hall  (1611), 
Hudson  (1607-'10),  Bylot  and  Baffin  (1616),  Luke  Fox  (1631),  James  (1631), 
:\Iiddlt4on  (1741),  Hearne  (1760-'72),  Phipps  (1773),  Cook  (1779),  Mackenzie 
(1789),  Kotzebue  (1815-'18),  John  Boss  (1818),  Buchan  (1818).] 

r.arringtou,  Hon.  D.  The  possibihty  of  approaching  the  Xorth  Pole  asserted; 
with  an  Api)endix  by  Col.  Beaufoy.     8°.    London,  1818. 

Buchan,  Capt.  D.  Voyage  of  discovery  towards  the  i^^.  Pole  performed  in  H.  M. 
Ships  Dorothea  and  Trent  in  1818 ;  edited  in  1843  by  Captain  Beechey, 
R.  N.  (Lieut,  on  the  Trent  in  1818). 

Boss,  Capt.  John,  11.  X.  A  voyage  of  discovery  made  under  orders  of  the  Ad- 
miralty in  her  JMajesty's  Ships  Isabella  and  Alexander  for  the  purpose  of 
exi)loring  Baffin's  Bay  ami  enquiring  into  the  probability  of  a  N.  W.  passage, 
isis.     4^.     Loudon,  1819. 

risher,  A.  Journal  of  a  voyage  to  the  Arctic  Regions  in  1818,  in  H.  M.  S.  Alex- 
ander.    8°.    London,  1819. 

Scoresby,  AV..  juu.  .Vn  account  of  the  Arctic  Regions,  with  a  history  and  descrip- 
tion of  the  Xorthern  Whale  Fishery.    2  vols.     8°.     London,  1820. 

Parry,  ('ai)t.  W.  E.  Journal  of  a  voyage  for  the  discoverj^  of  a  N.  W.  Passage 
from  tlic  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  1819-'21,  in  her  Majesty's  Ships  Hecla  and 
Ci  riper.     I'.     London,  1821. 

Von  AN'ran^M'll,  Baron  F.  Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  the  Polar  Sea  in  1820. 
'I'ninslated  by  Col.  Sabine. 

li.sliei.  A.  .loiiinal  of  ji  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  Arctic  Regions  in  H.  M.  S. 
Ilecia  :iim1  (hipei-  in  ilie  years  1819-'20.     8o.     London,  1821. 

.louina!  of  a  second  voyage  for  the  discovery  of  a  Xortli  West  passage 

from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  in  his  IMajesty's  Ships  Fury  and  Hecla, 
lH21-'23.    40.     London,  1824. 


Preliminary  Chapter. 


.\l\  II 


Lyon,  G.  F.     The  private  Journal  of  Capt.  G.  F.  Lyon  of  IT.  ]\r.  S.  II(m1;i  .Imin-- 

the  recent  voyage  of  discovery  nnder  Cai)t.  Parry,  1821-'l'.').     11'^.     Ijhi 

don,  1824.     [Contains  much  of  etlinolo<;ical  interest.] 
Franklin,  Sir  Jolin.     Narrative  of  a  Journey  to  the  sliorc  of  llic  I'olar  Sc:i  in  tiir 

years  1819-'22.     4°.     London,  1823. 
Parry,  Capt.  W.  E.     Journal  of  a  third  voyage  for  tlie  discovery  of  a  N.  W.  pas 

sage,  1824-'25  :  H.  M.  Ships  ITecla  and  Fury.     4°.     London,  182(;. 
Lyon,  Capt.  G.  F.     A  brief  Narrative  of  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  icadi  l,'(|nilse 

Bay  through  Sir  Thomas  Koe's  Welcome  in  H.  M.  S.  Griper  in  isi'i.    s^. 

London,  1825. 
Franklin,  Capt.  John.    Narrative  of  a  2d  Expedition  to  the  shores   of  1  lie   I'olar 

Sea,  including  an  account  of  a  detachment  to  the  Eastward  by  John  Kidi- 

ardson,  1825-'27.     4°.    London,  1828. 
Beechey,  Capt.  W.  F.,  E.  N.     Narrative  of  a  voyage  to  the  Pacific  and  lioring's 

Strait  to  co-operate  with  the  Polar  expedition  (Franklin's  2d  land  journey) 

in  H.  M.  Ship  Blossom,  1825-'28.     8°.    London,  1831. 
Eoss,  Capt.  John.     Narrative  of  a  second  voyage  in  search  of  a  N.  W.  Passage, 

and  of  a  residence  in  the  Arctic  regions  during  the  years  1829-'33,  iiulud- 

ing  the  Eeports  of  James  C.  Eoss  and  the  discovery  of  the  N.  Magnetic  Pole. 

4°.     London,  1835. 
Parry,  W.  E.     Narrative  of  an  attempt  to  reach  the  N.  Pole  in  boats  fitted  for  the 

purpose  and  attached  to  H.  M.  S.  Ilecla  in  the  year  1827.    4°.     London, 

1828.     Lat.  reached,  82°  43'.     (The  Spitzbergen  route.) 
Back,  Capt.  Geo.    Narrative  of  the  Arctic  Land  Expedition  to  the  Mouth  of  tlie 

Great  Fish  Eiver  and  along  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  in  the  years 

1833-'35.     40.     Loudon,  1836. 
King,  E.,  M.  D.     Narrative  of  a  journey  to  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  under 

Capt.  Back  in  1833-'35. 
Back,  G.    Narrative  of  an  Expedition  in  H.  M.  S.  Terror;  undertaken  witli 

a  view  to  Geographical  discoveries  on  the  Arctic  shores,  1830- o..     s^. 

London,  1838. 
Shnpson,  Thomas.     Narrative  of  the  Discoveries  on  the  N.  Coast  of  Aniciic  a 

effected  by  the  Officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  during  llu-  >  ears 

1836-'39.    80.     London,  1843. 
[An  account  of  these,  communicated  to  E.  Geog.  Soc'y  by  Governor  l'ell\ ,  k)\:  tlie 

Hudson  Bay  Co.,  in  E.  Geog.  Soc'y  Journal,  vol.  viii,  1838.] 


xlviii  PrcUminary  Chapter. 


11.  Chief  EngJifih  and  French  Arctic  imhlications  issued  between  the  years  1845 

and  18G0. 

Barrow,  Sir-  Johu.     Voyages  of  Discovery  and  research  within  the  Arctic  regions 

from  the  year  1818  to  1815.    8°.    Loudou,  1846. 
Eae,  ]  )r.  John.    Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea  in  1846 

and  1847.     8^.     London,  1850. 
liithardson  and  liae.     Journal  of  a  Boat  Voyage  in  search  of  Sir  J.  Franklin  in 

1848.     '2  V.     8°.     Loudon,  1851. 
Goodsir,  E.  A.    An  Arctic  Voyage  to  Baffin's  Bay  and  Lancaster  Sound  in  search 

of  friends  with  Sir  J.  Franklin,  in  1849.     8°.     London,  1850. 
The  Franklin  Expedition.    Considerations  on  Measures  for  the  discovery  and 

Eelief  of  our  absent  adventurers  in  the  Arctic  regions.    London,  1850. 
Snow,  W.  P.    Voyage  of  the  Prince  Albert  in  search  of  Sir  J.  Franklin  in  1850. 

S^.     London,  1851. 
Xfunedy,  Wni.    A  short  Narrative  of  the  second  Voyage  of  the  Prince  Albert, 

1851.     8o. 
Sutherland,  P.  C,  M.  D.    Journal  of  a  Voyage  in  Baffin's  Bay  and  Barrow  Straits 

l)erformed  in  the  years  1850-'51  by  H.  M.  S.  Lady  Franklin  and  Sophia  under 

Capt.  AV.  Penny  in  search  of  the  Missing  Ships  Erebus  and  Terrcr.    2  vols. 

8°.     London,  1852. 
B(ll(»t.  J.  II.    Journal  d'un  Voyage  aux  mers  polaires  execute  par  Lieut,  de  Vais- 

seau  de  la  Marine  Fran9aise,  J.  E.  Bellot,  a  la  recherche  de  Sir  J.  Franklin 

en  1851-'52.    8o.     Paris,  par  jM.  Julien  Lemer. 
Memoirs  of,  with  Journal.    2  v.    8°.    London,  1855.    Eevised  by  M.  de 

la  Eoquette :  Soc.  de  Geographic  de  Paris. 
T'»-l<lH-r,  Capt.,  Sir  E.    The  last  of  the  Arctic  Voyages :  the  Expedition  in  H.  M. 

S.  Assistance,  1852-'54.    2  v.     8°.     London,  1855. 
Seeman,  Berthold.    NaiTative  of  the  Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  Herald,  1845-'51,  under 

Capt.  H.  Kellett.    8^'.     London,  1853. 
Jnglelicld.  Commander  E.  A.     A  Summer  Search  for  Sir  John  Franklin.    8°. 

Loudon,  lH3o. 
Kane,  Ehsha  Kent,  L\  S.  N.    Access  to  an  Open  Polar  Sea.    8o.    New  York,  1853. 
r.  S.  Griniicll  Kxi)edition  in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin.     8°.     New 

York,  185;{. 
Arctic  Explouiiioiis.     The  Second  (jriiinell  Expedition  in  search  of  Sir 


John  Franklin,  1855.    2  v.     8°.     Philadelphia,  1850. 


Preliminary  Chapter.  xlix 

Kane,  Elisha  Kent,  U.  S.  N.    Eeport  to  Hon.  Sec'y  Navy  of  the  Voyage  of  the 

Advance ;  Sec'y  Dobbin's  Report  to  Congress,  1853. 
Astronomical  Observations  in  the  Arctic  Regions.     4°.     1800.     Siuiih- 

sonian  Contributions,  vol.  12. 
IMeteorological  Observations  in  the  Arctic  Regions.    4°.     1800.    Smith- 


sonian Contributious,  vols.  11  and  12. 
De  Haven,  Lieut.  Edwin  J.    Instructions  to,  from  Hon.  W.  B.  Preston,  Sec'y  NaA-y, 

for  his  command  of  the  Advance  and  Rescue,  in  Report  of  Sec'y  Navy  for 

1850-'51. 

His  report  to  Hon.  W.  A.  Graham  in  Sec.  Navy's  Report  for  1851-'52. 

Hartstene,  Lieut.  H.  J.,  U.  S.  N.    Report  of  the  cruise  of  the  Release  and  the 

Arctic  in  search  of  Dr.  Kane ;  in  Report  of  Hon.  Sec'y  Navy  for  1855-'56. 
Markham,  C.  R.,  Sec.  R.  G.  Socy.    Franklin's  footsteps ;  a  sketch  of  Greenland 

along  the  shores  of  which  his  Expedition  passed  and  of  the  Parry  Islands. 

1853. 
McDougall,  F.    The  Eventful  Voyage  of  H.  M.  S.  Resolute  in  the  Arctic  regions 

in  search  of  Sir  J.  Franklin,  1852-'54.    8°.     London,  1854. 
Osborn,  Capt.  S.,  R.  N.    Discovery  of  the  N.  W.  passage  by  Capt.  McClure  in  H. 

M.  S.  Investigator,  1850-'54.    8°.    London,  1857. 
Stray  leaves  from  an  Arctic  Journal,  or  18  mos.  Ser\dce  in  the  Ai-ctic 

regions. 
Armstrong,  A.  (M.  D.).    Personal  Narrative  of  the  discovery  of  the  N.  W.  pas- 
sage while  in  search  of  the  Expedition  under  Sir  John  Fraukhn,  1850-'54. 

8°.    London,  1857. 
Malte  Brun,  V.  A.,  Vice  Pres.  Geog.  Society  of  Paris.    Coup  d'oeil  d'ensemble  sur 

les  differentes  expeditions  entreprises  ^  la  recherche  de  Sir  J.  Franklin  et 

su.r  ses  decouvertes  g^ograpliiques.     8°.    Paris,  1855. 
Roquette,  M.  de  la.    Des  dernieres  Expeditions  faites  a  la  recherche  de  Sir  John 

Franklin  et  de  la  D6couverte  d'un  passage  par  mer  de  I'Ocean  Atlantique 

^  I'Ocean  Pacifique.    Paris,  1856. 

Notice  biographique  sur  I'Admiral  Sir  J.  Franklin.    4^.     1856. 

Richardson,  Sir  John.    The  Polar  Regions  (from  the  Encyclopoedia  Britannica). 

1856. 

Life  of  Sir  John  Franklin  in  the  Britannica. 

McClintock,  Capt.  F.  Leopold,  R.  N.    The  discovery  of  the  fate  of  Franklin  and 

his  Companions,  1859.     8°. 
Yoimg,  Capt.  Allen.    The  Search  for  Franklin.     In  Cornhill  Magazine  for  1800. 
S.  Ex.  27 IV 


1  PreUminary   Chapter. 

Hayos,  I.  I.     The  Open  Polar  Sea.    Narrative  of  a  Voyage  of  discovery  in  the 

ScLooner  United  States.     S©.     New  Yorlv,  1800. 
Osboru,  Admiral  Sberard,  II.  N.     The  Career,  last  voyage,  and  fate  of  Franklin. 

8^.     London,  1800. 
Malte  Jliiui.  A'.  A.     La  destin6e  do  Franklin  devolle^.     8o.     Paris,  1860. 
I'.rown,  J.    The  X.  W.  Passage  and  the  i)lans  for  the  Search  for  Sir  J.  Franklin. 

8=^.     London,  1800.     This  work  contains  a  satisfactory  review  of  both  snb- 

jects,  inclnding  the  resnlts  of  IMcClintock's  voyage. 

Official  reports  of  the  English  expeditions,  including  such  as  those  made  by 
1  >i .  line  and  by  Anderson  who  brought  the  first  ncAvs  of  Franklin's  expedition,  and 
other  returns  which  have  not  appeared  in  the  form  of  narratives,  Avill  be  found  in 
the  Parliamentary  Papers,beginning  with  the  Instructions  to  Franklin,  in  the  Blue 
Books,  and  in  the  papers  issued  by  the  Admiralty  Uydrographic  Office.  The  re- 
ports and  discussions  of  most  value  outside  of  these,  will  be  found  in  the  Journals 
and  Bulletins  of  the  European  and  American  geographical  societies ;  especially  in 
those  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society,  London;  the  Bulletins  de  la  Societe  de 
Geographic,  Paris ;  the  Annales  de  Voyage  edited  by  Malte  Brun,  and  the  Jour- 
nal of  the  American  Geographical  Society,  New  York;  and  in  Petermann's  Geo- 
grajthische  Mittheilungen.  Copious  references  to  all  of  these  are  given  in  "  Die 
Lit«'ratur  iiber  der  Polar  Itegionen,"  edited  for  the  K.  K.  Geographische  Gesell- 
s(;haft,  of  Vienna,  by  Chavanue,  Karpft",  and  Le  IMonnier.    8°.     Vienna,  1878. 


Chapter    T. 


PREPARATORY  WORK  FOR  THE  SECOND  EXPEDITION. 


SEPTEMBER,  [m,  TO  DECIMBEK,  ll{G2. 


8.  Ex.  27 1 


CHAPTER   I. 


PEEPAEATORY  WOEK. 

Hall  returns  from  his  First  Expedition — Telegraphs  from  St.  John's,  Newfoundland, 

EXPRESSING  HIS  PURPOSE  OF  A  SECOND  VoYAGE — WRITES  TO  Mr.  GRINNT^LL  FROM  CIN- 
CINNATI, DESIRING  TO  PRESENT  THE  FrOBISHER  ReLICS  TO  THE  ENGLISH  PEOPLE — HiS 
ABSTRACT  OF  DiLLON'S  DISCOVERY  OF  THE  ReLICS  OF  La  PeROUSE'S  EXPEDITION — STUDIES 
HaKLUYT,  PuRCHAS,  AND  OTHER  AUTHORITIES,  AND  FINDS  PROOF  OF  THE  GENUINENESS 
OF  HIS  DISCOVERIES — READS  A  PAPER  BEFORE  THE  AMERICAN  GEOGRAPHICAL  SOCIETY, 
AVOWING  HIS  PURPOSE  OF  RETURNING  NORTH  THE  FOLLOWING  SPRING — ACKNOWLEDG- 
MENT BY  THE  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  the  receipt  of  the  Relics — Cor- 
respondence WITH  Mr.  John  Barrow  and  with  Captain  Becher,  R.  N..  resulting 

IN    THE    preparation    OF    A    NEW    ARCTIC    A'OLUME    BY    ADMIRAL    COLLIXSOX,    R.   N.,    FOR 

THE  Hakluyt  Society — Hall's  account  of  his  discoveries  read  before  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  London— Their  genuineness  contirmkd  by  Rae,  Barrow, 
Markiiam,  and  Young — His  abstract  of  the  three  Expeditions  of  Sir  Martin 
Frobisher — Addenda. 

Hall's  preparations  for  his  Second  Expedition,  which  this  Narra- 

,  tive  is  now  to  record,  occupied  a  period  of  nearly  two  j^ears.     The 

labors  of  those  years,  by  demonstrating  the  successful  results  of  his 

hrst  voyage,  and  by  the  interest  created  through  the  publication  of  his 

"Arctic  Researches",  secured  his  second  outfit. 

The  purpose  of  the  first  voyage — to  find  the  records  of  the  Frank- 
lin Expedition,  and,  if  possible,  some  of  the  survivors — was  entirely 
defeated  by  the  loss  of  his  sole  dependence — his  boat.     The  purpose 


4  The  Franklin  Boat-Creivs. 

was  but  stieiigtheiied  by  defeat.  He  gave  proof  of  this  before  his 
arrival  in  the  United  States  by  a  telegram  from  St.  John's,  Newfound- 
land, to  his  friends,  Mr.  Grinnell  and  Mr.  Field,  of  New  York,  and  Mr. 
Greenwood  and  Mr.  Bishop,  of  Cincinnati;  a  dispatch  which  began 
with  the  words,  "I  am  bound  for  the  States  to  renew  voyage'\  and  which 
reads  throughout  more  like  news  from  an  excursionist  than  from  one 
who  had  been  fighting  his  way  through  two  Arctic  winters.  The  forti- 
tude into  which  those  severe  experiences  had  disciplined  him,  seems  to 
have  shown  itself  steadily  throughout  the  succeeding  two  years  of 
working  and  waiting  which  are  now  to  be  traced. 

Arriving  in  New  London  September  13,  1862,  and  placing  under 
the  care  of  Capt.  S.  0.  Budington  the  Eskimos,  Ebierbing  {Joe)  and  Too- 
koo-U-too  {Hannah),  who  had  joined  their  fortunes  with  his  own,  two 
years  before,  Hall  made  a  short  visit  to  his  family  and  to  his  earliest 
Arctic  friends  in  Cincinnati.  While  there,  his  letters  evinced  much 
concern  as  to  the  opinions  which  the  English  people  might  form  from 
the  reports  by  the  press  of  his  late  voyage,  a  hasty  impression  having 
been  received  from  him  that  he  had  probably  determined  the  fate  of 
tw(.  l)oats'  crews  of  Franklin's  Expedition.  He  had  been  led  into  this 
error  by  a  i)arty  of  Sekoselar  Innuits,  but  promptly  corrected  it  in  the 
coliuinis  (jf  the  New  York  press,  and,  afterward,  more  fully  in  a  paper 
read  Ijefore  the  American  Geographical  Society  and  in  the  "Ai'ctic  Re- 
searches." Ills  apprehensions  were  that  before  the  first  correction  could 
reach  England  the  error  would  prejudice  the  English  against  the  gen- 
uineness of  the  discoveries  he  had  been  making  in  the  region  visited 
by  Sir  Martin  I'Vobislier  tln-ee  centuries  l)efore. 

'i'lie  appreliciisioii  proved  to  have  been  groundless.     It  had,  how- 


The  Proposed  Visit  to  England.  5 

ever  induced  Hall  to  decline  lecturing  in  Cincinnati,  and  to  entertain 
a  new  idea  in  regard  to  his  discoveries  and  to  the  proper  disposition  of 
the  valuable  relics  of  Frobisher's  Expedition,  which  he  had  found  on  this 
first  voyage.  Writing  to  Mr.  Grinnell,  he  expressed  his  belief  that  he 
ought  to  go  over  immediately  to  England  and  present  tliese  to  the 
English  sovereign  and  people,  as  Captain  Dillon  in  1829  had  presented 
the  remains  of  La  Perouse's  Expedition  to  Charles  X  and  to  the  French 
nation.* 

He  naturally  set  a  value  on  his  late  explorations,  and  had  reason 
to  suppose  they  would  interest  the  English  people.  He  believed  that 
the  account  given  by  Frobisher  himself  of  the  country  he  had  visited, 
was  so  indefinite  that  for  nearly  three  hundred  years  the  civilized  world 
had  been  in  doubt  of  the  precise  localities.  Beste's  Narrative  to  be 
found  at  that  time  only  in  Hakluyt's  collection,  and  Barrow's  history 
which  Hall  had  in  hand  while  traveling  over  the  land,  were  proof 
enough  of  the  indefiniteness  of  the  geographical  positions  named  by 
Frobisher.  Up  to  the  time  of  Hall's  visit  in  18Gl,no  opportunity  had 
been  embraced  for  identifying  these  localities,  orforconfirming  the  record 
of  what  Frobisher's  three  expeditions  had  reported  as  accomplished  on 

*  This  lie  had  found  fully  noted  in  tlie  "Narrative  and  Successful  Result  of  a  Voyage  in  the 
South,  performed  by  order  of  the  Government  of  British  India  to  ascertain  the  actual  fate  of  La 
Perouse's  Expedition  of  1785 ;  made  by  Chevalier  Capt.  P.  Dillon  in  1828."  His  attention  hav- 
iug  been  closely  drawn  to  this  history,  he  had  made  the  following  abstract,  the  italicized  parts  of 
which  are  those  underscored  in  his  manuscript,  as  arguments  for  his  yet  finding  survivors  of 
Franklin's  party. 

"Louis  XVI  and  the  French  nation  having  determined  to  contribute  their  share  in  enlarging 
our  acquaintance  with  the  globe  and  its  inhabitants,  ordered  an  exi)editioii  to  be  fitted  out  in 
1785,  consisting  of  two  of  the  finest  French  frigates.  La  Boussole  and  L'Astrolabe.  Neither  lalior 
nor  expense  was  spared  in  completing  the  expedition,  to  which  were  attached  some  of  the  ablest 
and  most  scientific  men  of  Europe. 

'To  secure  the  success  of  this  enterprise  the  ships'  companies  of  which  numbered  240  souls, 
it  was  deemed  necessary  to  select  a  man  of  the  highest  professional  talent  to  command  the  expe- 
dition. La  Perouse  was  chosen ;  his  distinguished  naval  exploits,  scientific  acquirements,  and 
enterprising  character  having  pointed  him  out  as  the  fittest  person  to  be  thus  honored. 

"The  expedition  sailed  from  Brest,  August,  1785,  and,  after  making  discoveries  in  various 


6  The  Survival  of  La  Perouse's  Men. 

tliose  shores.  The  Admiralty  chart  of  1 853  and  that  furnished  for  the 
volume  of  De  Haven's  Expedition,  still  had  upon  them  the  so-called 
"Strait"  as  reported  by  Frobisher,  which  was  supposed  to  be  a  passage 
westward  to  the  further  part  of  Hudson's  Bay;  but  navigators  have 
always  chosen  Hudson's  Straits  in  passing  to  and  from  that  bay.  Had 
any  one  attempted  the  passage  through  what  was  laid  down  on  their 
charts  as  Frobisher's  Strait,  they  might  have  anticipated  Hall's  dis- 
covery, coiTCCting  Frobisher  and  proving  this  to  be  a  Bay.  But  the 
language  of  nearly  all  of  the  geographical  writers  on  Frobisher's  voy- 
ages was  obscure,  and  the  charts  of  the  first  half  of  the  century,  inaccu- 
rate. Hall  had  reason  for  desiring  to  prove  the  genuineness  of  his  dis- 
coveries, and  he  expressed  a  wish  to  place  his  proofs  before  a  committee 
that  might  be  appointed  in  London  to  examine  his  notes,  his  relics,  and 
himself. 

Sir  Martin's  name  was  that  of  one  of  the  first  of  Englishmen 


•luarters,  anchored  in  Botany  Bay  January  26,  1788.  Here  La  Perouse  met  with  the  Britisli 
squadron  under  Governor  Phillijjs,  and  committed  to  him  what  proved  to  be  his  last  dispatches 
for  France.  At  the  close  of  February  the  French  set  sail  for  further  discovery,  but  nothing  more 
was  heard  of  La  Perouse  for  thirty-eight  years,  when  Captain  Dillon,  commanding  a  vessel  sent  in 
search  of  the  remains  of  the  lost  expeditiou,  ascertained  the  fate  of  the  long  lost  navigator.  Ou 
the  island  of  Tucopia  (Barnwell  Island),  lat.  12^^  15'  S.,  long.  169°  W.,  Dillon,  in  1826-'-27,  obtained 
information  that,  many  years  before,  two  vessels  had  been  wrecked  near  the  island  of  Manicolo, 
within  less  tb«n  one  day's  sail  of  Tucopia.  Through  Martin  Burhart,  a  Prussian  who  had  resided 
there  fourteen  years,  Captain  Dillon  learned  that  many  from  the  shipwrecked  crews  had  escaped 
to  the  islands.  He  hastened  to  Manicolo  and  Ihere  procured  many  relics  from  the  natives;  and, 
from  the  depths  of  the  seas  in  which  the  vessel  had  been  wrecked,  incontrovertible  proofs  of  their 
destruction  forty  years  before;  and  at  length  he  learned  tliat  many  of  the  white  men  were  saved, 
but  that  the  last  remnant  of  them  had  died  only  three  years  before,  after  surviving  thirty-seren  years 
from  the  time  of  the  wreck.  Ou  the  island  of  Manicolo  had  lived  some  of  these  survivors  of  the 
ill-fated  expedition  long  after  the  world  had  given  them  up  as  dead.  The  expedition  sent  out  by 
France,  under  Admiral  Entrecasteau,  in  17'Jl,  had  visited  La  Croix,  a  few  leagues  only  from  Mani- 
colo, where  survivors  of  the  lost  ex]>edition  were  then  living,  and  the  inhabitants  of  both  islands 
liad  kept  n\t  constant  intercourse  with  each  other.  Yet  this  expedition,  which  was  out  six  years, 
gained  no  intelligence  whatever  of  La  Perouse,  while  by  that  fearful  scourge  scurvy,  it  lost  ono 
hundred  and  twenty  officers  and  men,  though  its  voyage  was  mostly  in  the  warm  zone. 

"Dillon's  men  nund)ered  87  souls,  and,  at  one  time,  nearly  every  one  was  prostrated  by  the 
discascfi  of  the  tropical  region.  Still,  in  that  clime— more  inhospitable  than  that,  surely,  of  King 
n'illiam'M  Ixiud — ilid  some  nf  La  Perouse's  companions  survive  for  nearly  forty  years." 


Sir  Mnrtiv  Frohishrr.  7 

to  sail  in  quest  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  and  it  was  one  of  no  less 
fame  under  Drake  and  Howard,  for  in  1588  lie  wns  knij^hted  for  service 
under   the    High    Admiral    against   the   Armada.      Hall's   enthusiasm 


Martinus  Frobisherts,  Eques  Auratus. 
(From  "The  Three  Voyages  of  Martin  Frobisher,"'  edited  by  Admiral  Colliusou,  K.  N.) 

prompted  him  to  say  that  the  age  of  his  Frobisher  relies  and  the 
remarkable  circumstances  attending  them  stamped  them  as  worthy 
gifts  for  Queen  Victoria.     Barrow  had  shown  liim  that  tlio  expcditlniis 


8  Hall  before  the  American  Geographical  Society. 

of  Sir  Martin  were  among  the  favorite  objects  of  Elizabeth.  She  had 
shown  her  favor  by  her  throwing  around  Sir  Martin's  neck  a  chain  of 
gold,  and  by  her  letters  of  praise  written  to  him. 

Conferring,  however,  with  Mr.  Grinnell  after  returning  from 
Cincinnati,  he  decided  to  send  the  relics  out  to  England,  to  the  care  of 
Mr.  Cornelius  Grinnell,  in  place  of  exhausting  his  own  means  and  de- 
laying his  plans  by  a  visit  to  London.  In  the  mean  time,  aj)plying 
himself  closely  at  the  rooms  of  the  American  Geographical  Society 
and  of  the  Astor  Library  to  the  old  authorities  Hakluyt,  Purchas,  and 
others,  he  had  the  satisfaction  of  further  confirming  his  discoveries. 
After  a  study  of  some  weeks  previously  to  meeting  the  Geographical 
Society,  he  wrote  to  Budington: 

I  find  much  that  is  valuable  in  proving  that  the  rehcs  are,  beyond  all  ques- 
tion, Frobisher's.  It  will  perhaps  startle  you  to  hear  that  one  of  his  vessels  went 
into  the  bay  I  call  Ward's  bay,  through  Beare  Sound.  It  may  be  the  English 
will  dispute  my  discoveries,  but  I  covet  the  opportunity  to  show  the  facts. 

Opportunity  for  this  was  early  afforded.  At  the  meeting  of  the 
American  Geographical  Society,  held,  as  at  that  time  was  usual,  in  the 
hall  of  the  Historical  Society,  of  New  York,  he  was  introduced  by  Mr. 
Grinnell  and  made  a  report  which  will  be  found  noted  in  "the  Pro- 
ceedings", under  the  title  of  "An  abstract  of  a  Paper  on  some  Arctic 
Discoveries." 

In  this  paper,  after  referring  to  his  statements  before  the  society 
made  two  years  previously.  Hall  re-stated  in  full  that  the  original  pur- 
pose of  his  late  voyage  was  to  visit  King  William's  Land  and  Boothia, 
and  there  spend  two  years,  if  needed,  in  gathering  materials  for  con- 
cluding in  a  more  satisfactory  way  the  history  of  Franklin's  Expedi- 
tion ;  to  recover  the  logs  of  the  ships  Erebus  and  Terror,  with  all  other 
manuscripts  belonging  to  that  expedition;  and,  especially,  to  rescue 


The  Frobisher  Colorty.  9 

some  lone  survivor  or  survivors  that  peradventure  might  be  found  living 
with  the  Eskimos.  He  then  gave  an  account  of  Messrs.  Williams  and 
Haven's  generously  free  conveyance  to  Northumberland  Inlet  of  liim- 
self  and  his  Eskimo  companion,  Kud-lar-go,  with  his  boat,  provisions, 
and  stores;  of  his  boat  being  wrecked  the  September  following;  and 
of  his  long  residence  with  the  natives,  during  which  he  had  ingratiated 
himself  witli  them,  adopting  their  style  of  dress,  living  in  their  snow 
huts,  and  feeding  on  their  raw  whale-skin,  walrus  and  seal  meat. 

With  some  exultation,  he  said  that  in  September,  1861,  he  had 
landed  on  an  island  which  the  Innuits  and  their  ancestors  from  time 
immemorial  had  called  Kodlunarn,  or  White  Man's  Island,  from  tlio 
tradition  that  strangers  had  lived  there  and  tried  to  escape  fl-om  it; — on 
which  island  he  had  found  remains  of  stone  houses,  coal,  iron,  and 
glass,  all  covered  with  the  moss  of  ages;  and  that  he  had  visited  every 
accessible  place  named  by  the  Eskimos  as  connected  with  the  fate  of 
the  strangers  living  there,  as  they  said,  ''many,  many  years  ago."  He 
added  his  convictions  that  he  had  thus  been  the  first  to  revisit  the  pre- 
cise localities  of  Frobisher's  three  expeditions  of  1576,  '77,  and  '78, 
and  quoted  from  Haklu5^t  and  other  works  in  which  the  materials 
taken  out  by  Frobisher  for  the  erection  of  stone  houses  and  everything 
necessary  for  the  colony  of  one  hundred  men  are  detailed;  and  he 
exhibited  the  specimens  which  he  had  brought  from  the  ruins,  asking 
the  Geographical  Society  to  inspect  them  rigidly  in  evidence  for  or 
against  his  statements. 

He  then  showed  that  during  his  two  years'  northern  residence,  lie 
had  explored  over  one  thousand  miles  of  coast,  making  as  careful  a 
surve}^  as  his  means  and  instruments  permitted,  and  proving  that  the 
water  which  had  for  three  centuries  been  called  Frobisher's  Strait  was 


10  The  Belies  Indorsed  as  Genuine. 

a  wide  bay.  He  added,  "  Inasmuch  as  I  have  failed  in  the  great  object 
for  which  I  went  out,  it  is  my  intention  to  try  again  in  the  following 
spring." 

The  Eskimo  family,  Ebierbing,  Too-koo-li-too,  and  their  child, 
Tu-ker-li-ke-ta  (the  Butterfly),  who  had  come  down  from  Groton  in 
their  full  arctic  dresses  of  deer  and  seal  skin,  were  introduced  to  the 
audience.  They  exhibited  a  variety  of  costumes  and  implements,  and 
with  their  young  child  were  the  objects  of  much  interest,  and  were 
called  on  for  many  replies  to  questions  interpreted  to  them  by  Hall. 
Valuable  donations  of  relics  were  sent  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 
A  part  of  the  geological  collections  was  presented  to  the  New  York 
Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  and  was  the  subject  of  brief  reports  to 
the  lyceum  by  Mr.  Iv.  P  Stevens  and  Mr.  Thomas  Egleston.  [An 
account  of  this,  and  a  discussion  of  another  part  of  his  collections, 
afterward  presented  to  Amherst  College  by  J.  J.  Copp,  Esq.,  of  Groton, 
Conn.,  will  be  found  in  Appendix  III,  illustrated  by  drawings  of  some 
of  the  fossils.  This  discussion,  by  Prof  B.  K.  Emerson,  of  Amherst 
College,  is  indorsed  by  Prof  C  A.  White,  of  the  United  States  Geolog- 
ical Survey  of  the  Territories,  as  a  desirable  addition  to  our  knowledge 
of  the  mineralogical  and  geological  character  of  the  Arctic  Regions.] 

A  number  of  other  relics  were  exhibited  at  the  residence  of  Mr. 
lleiuy  Grinnell  for  some  time  before  their  transmission  to  England.  At 
the  close  of  the  year  they  were  presented  to  the  English  people,  through 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  London,  whose  acknowledgment  of 
their  receipt  names:  3  cases  and  1  cask  of  relics;  and  I  piece  of  iron 
weighing  20  pounds.  Hall  sent  with  them  a  carefully  prepared  out- 
line sketch  of  Frobisher's  Bay,  and  three  diagram  maps,  one  being  that 
ot   the  (Jduiitess  of  Warwicke    Sound  of  Frobisher.      In  connection 


Correspondence  with   Barroir  <nit/  others.  1 1 

witli  this  donation,  he  entered  into  a  convs])ondenco  \\\\\\  .Mi\  .Iclm 
Barrow,  son  of  Sir  John  Barrow  who  has  l)een  so  jiistl\-  st>led  the 
Father  of  Modern  Arctic  Enterprise,  witli  Commander  A.  li.  Hcclicr, 
R  N.,  of  the  Admiralty,  and  with  Mr.  C.  R.  Markham,  tlien,  as  now, 
one  of  the  Secretaries  of  tlie  Royal  Geographical  Societ}-,  makiiin- 
close  inquiries  in  regard  to  such  points  in  Frobisher's  ]nst()r\-  as  >\ ci-e 
inaccessible  to  him,  the  manuscripts  to  be  consulted  being  found  onU- 
in  the  British  Museum. 

His  letters  are  in  evidence  of  his  earnest  desire  to  possess  him- 
self of  every  fact  in  the  history.  The  correspondence  contains  geo- 
graphical notes  of  intrinsic  value,  and  shows  that  his  claims  as  a 
discoverer  were  promptly  admitted  on  the  transparent  consistency  of 
the  details  given  in  his  letter  before  the  reception  of  his  charts  and 
relics. 

Commander  Becher  had  published  the  results  of  his  own  investi- 
gations of  Frobisher's  voyages  in  an  elaborate  paper  in  the  Journal  of 
the  Royal  Greographical  Society  (vol.  12,  1842).  On  receiving  Hall's 
letter  to  Barrow,  he  wrote  to  Hall :  ''I  have  no  douht  of  your  relics 
being  those  left  by  Frobisher's  party.  Warwicke  Island  and  Sound 
were  the  principal  resort  of  the  voyagers.  I  j^erceive  that  your  lati- 
tude and  mine  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  Foreland  are  pretty  near  each 
other  " 

This  correspondence  produced  an  incidental  result  which  lias 
proved  valuable  to  geograph}^  and  to  the  libraries  of  our  da}'.  Cap- 
tain Becher's  purpose  expressed  in  his  letter  to  Hall,  to  urge  upon  the 
Hakluyt  Society  the  issuing  of  a  worthy  reprint  of  Frobisher's  jour- 
nals, accorded  with  the  general  sentiment  expressed  by  the  editor  ot  the 


12  CoUinson^s   Volume  PiihlishecL 

Geographical  Society's  Journal,  when  publishing,  in  1842,  the  paper  to 
wliicli  reference  has  been  made  :  "That  it  was  not  creditable  to  England 
to  have  done  so  little  for  preserving  and  rendering  available  the  records 
of  the  navigation  of  Frobisher's  age."  The  explorations  of  Hall  and 
the  correspondence  now  referred  to  resulted  in  the  preparation  by 
Admiral  Collinson,  R.  N.,  for  the  Hakluyt  Society,  of  a  new  and  valu- 
able volume  of  Frobisher's  voyages.  Admiral  Collinson,  C.  B. — now 
holder  Brother  of  Trinity  House,  London — well  known  as  himself  an 
eminent  Arctic  explorer,  has  given  in  this  volume  a  reprint  from  the 
first  rare  edition  of  Hakluyt's  voyages,  with  selections  from  manu- 
s(iij)ts  and  documents  in  the  British  Museum  and  in  the  State  Paper 
Office,  accompanied  by  two  rare  old  maps  and  a  picture  of  Sir  Martin. 
The  work,  issued  in  1867,  was  cordially  dedicated  "to  Henry  Grin- 
nell,  of  New  York,  as  a  tribute  of  respect  and  admiration  not  only 
for  liis  conduct  and  generous  co-operation  in  the  search  for  Sir  John 
Franklin  and  his  companions,  but  for  the  interest  he  had  shown  in,  and 
tlie  aid  he  had  afforded  to.  Polar  exploration  in  the  present  day." 
In  the  introduction  to  this  work,  Admiral  Collinson  said  : 

In  the  appendix  will  be  found  a  list  of  the  relics  of  the  Frobisher  Expedi- 
tion brought  home  by  Mr.  C.  F.  Hall  in  1863,  which  are  now  deposited  at  the 
Ifoyal  Geograi)hical  Society;  and  I  am  one  of  those  that  believe  that  his  exer- 
lions  in  exploring  King  William's  Land  for  the  joiuiials  and  records  of  the  Frank- 
lin IL\i)edition  will  be  attended  with  success.  When  this  island  was  visited  by 
Sir  L.  McClintock  and  Captain  Ilobson  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow.  Mr. 
Hall  iiitoiMls  ])as8ing  the  summer  upon  it,  and  the  knowledge  he  has  obtained  of 
the  Ei>kimo  language  and  character  diu-ing  his  two  years'  residence  in  Frobisher 
liay  will  enable  him  to  gain  their  confidence. 

The  catalogue  of  relics  referred  to  b}^  Admiral  Collinson  occupies, 
witli  its  l)i'iof  accompanying  note,  eight  pages  of  this  new  Frobisher 
volume.     It  is  signed  by  C.  F.  Hall,  and  dated  from  New  York,  Febru- 


HalVs  Pamper  Read  before  the  Royal  Geographieal  Soeietij,  London.     18 

aiy  7,  1863.  At  the  tenth  meeting  of  the  Koyal  Geographical  Society 
for  that  year,  held  April  1.'*,  a  paper  prepared  by  him  to  be  lead  on 
the  receipt  of  the  relics  was  presented  from  Mr.  11.  Grinnell,  and  read 
by  the  Secretary  of  the  society,  Dr.  Norton  Shaw.  This  i)aper  and 
the  discoveries  reported  in  it  elicited  the  commendations  of  Sir  \l. 
Mm-chison,  President  of  the  society,  and  of  the  Arctic  explorers.  Sir 
George  Back,  Capt.  Sherard  Osborn,  and  Dr.  Rae,  and  occasioned 
the  following  letter  from  Mr.  John  Barrow  : 

17  Hanover  Terrace, 

Begenfs  Park,  April  IGth,  18G3. 
To  C.  F.  Hall: 

Sir  :  I  should  sooner  have  answered  your  letter  of  25tli  of  February,  but 
there  has  beeu  a  longer  delay  than  1  expected  in  the  reading  of  your  irdpav 
owing  to  the  Easter  hoUdays.  It  was  read  on  Monday  evening  at  the  Eoyal 
Geographical  Society  in  a  very  crowded  meeting,  many  being  unable  to  get 
seats. 

In  consequence  of  a  weakness  in  my  throat  I  was  compelled  to  give  up  all 
idea  of  reading  it  myself,  as  the  room  is  ill  adapted  for  hearing,  being  long  and 
narrow,  and  the  speaker  fronting  his  audience  in  the  centre ;  consequently  at  the 
ends  of  the  rooui  it  is  not  easy  to  command  attention.  However,  our  secretar\'. 
Dr.  Norton  Shaw,  read  it  right  well.  He  took  great  pains,  and  1  assure  you  you 
might  have  heard  a  pin  drop  during  the  whole  time.  The  paper  was  very  a\ ell 
received,  but  as  it  was  rather  long  and  another  paper  to  come  on,  the  discussion 
was  limited. 

Dr.  Eae  fully  corroborated  your  statement  of  reliance  to  bo  ])hicc(l  on 
Eskimo  statements  and  traditions.  1  have  sent  you  a  report  of  tlic  juoceediugs 
given  in  the  Times.*  Of  course,  it  is  very  abridged.  Cornelius  Grinnell  was 
present,  and  will  doubtless  write  to  you  fully. 

*  [Extract  from  a  letter  to  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell.] 

*  *  *  I  send  you  the  Times  of  the  15th  instant,  which  gives  a  longer  account  Ihan 
is  usual  for  them  to  publish  of  the  meeting  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  I  wish  you  had 
been  there  to  hear  the  eulogy  pronounced  upon  you  by  Sir  Roderick  Murchison  and  Captain 
Osborn,  aud  the  manner  in  which  it  was  received  by  the  audience. 

The  report  in  the  Times  gives  but  a  faint  idea  of  what  was  said.  It  was  enough  to  make 
any  of  your  family  feel  proud.     It  seemed  as  if  Osborn  could  not  say  too  much  of  the  obligation 


1 4  l^n  couragemen  t. 

As  regards  the  final  disposal  of  the  Frobisher  relics,  I  think  they  shoidd 
either  be  placed  in  Greenwich  Hall  or  in  the  Royal  United  Service  Institution 
with  the  Franklin  relics.  Although  your  letter  has  been  unanswered  it  has  not 
been  neglected. 

Mr.  Major,  of  the  British  Museum,  whom  1  met  at  the  Geographical  Society, 
is  getting  all  tlie  extracts  you  require  made  for  you,  and  they  will  shortly  be 
ready. 

Believe  mc,  my  dear  sir,  with  best  wishes  for  your  success  in  your  next 
enterprise,  yours  \'ery  truly  and  with  great  respect, 

JOHX  BAEROW. 

The  action  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  and  the  courteous 
and  encouraging  letters  received  from  such  officers  as  have  been  named, 
proved  further  incentives  to  Hall  to  prepare  for  a  return  to  the  fields  of 
exploration.  His  disappointment  in  not  receiving  a  single  volume  of 
the  Hakluyt  series,  for  which  he  asked  in  the  correspondence  with  the 
secretar}^  of  the  Hakluyt  Society,  was  compensated  for  by  a  loan  of 
the  whole,  at  a  later  date,  from  the  library  of  Mr,  J  Carson  Brevoort, 
of  Brookh'n,  L.  I.  The  charts  which  he  needed  were  courteously 
forwarded  by  Captain  Becher,  of  the  Admiralty,  during  the  ensuing 
season,  through  the  British  consul  at  New  York. 

and  indebtedness  of  every  Englishman  to  you  and  of  the  admiration  of  your  liberaltyand  philan- 
thropy. The  whole  atiair  passed  off  most  satisfactorily.  Sir  George  Back  spoke  in  high  terms  of 
Mr.  Hall's  perseverance  and  energy,  and  had  no  doubt  that  the  relics  were  those  of  Frobisher. 
Rae,  Barrow,  Young,  Markham,  and  several  others  also  expressed  the  same  opinion.  It  was 
thought  best  to  strike  out  that  portion  of  the  paper  relating  to  the  supposed  remains  of  Sir  John 
Franklin's  expedition,  as  it  would  be  painful  to  the  feelings  of  their  relations.  Rae  strongly 
corrol»orated  the  remarks  of  Mr.  Hall  regarding  the  truthfulness  of  the  traditions  of  the  natives. 

Tin-  relics  will  be  for  the  ]»resent  exhibited  in  the  society's  rooms,  lor  inspect  ion  of  scienlific 
men,  until  their  fmal  disposition,  which  is  in  the  hands  of  Sir  R.  Murchison  and  Mr.  Brown. 

If  was  deliglitful  to  witness  the  respect  and  kind  feeling  exhibited  by  the  eminent  discov- 
ereru  pn-s<nt  for  tlie  labors  of  a  brother  explorer. 

If -Mr.  Hall  could  only  reach  King  William's  Land  and  iind  the  Records  of  Franklin  what  a 
nanif  lie  could  make  for  him.self!  I  am  afraid  it  can  only  be  accomplished  by  a  vessel  to  Princo 
Regent's  Inlet  or  overland  by  Rae's  or  Anderson's  route  through  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's 
Territorj- 


HaWa  Historic  Notes.  15 

hall's  abstract   of   the  FllOBISHER  EXPEDIJIONS. 

In  Sir  John  Barrow's  history  Hall  liad  bolorc  him  tlic,  follow  ing  accoiiiil  <•! 
Frobisher's  tliree  expeditions :        *        *        * 

"Whether  Frobisher  had  collected  the  reports  of  the  Northwest  Passage  to 
Cathaia  having-  been  actually  performed,  or  whether  alone  from  his  knowledge  of 
the  sphere  and  all  other  skilles  appertaining  to  the  arte  of  navigation,  his  liojics 
were  grounded,  it  is  quite  certain  that  lie  had  persuaded  hiiiiself  tlic  voyage  was 
not  only  feasible  but  of  easy  execution.  His  friends,  however,  were  not  so  easily 
persuaded  to  enter  into  his  scheme ;  but  as  it  was  the  only  thing  of  the  world  left 
yet  undone  whereby  a  notable  mind  might  be  made  famous  and  fortunate,  he  per 
severed  for  fifteen  years  without  being  able  to  acquire  the  means  of  setting  forth 
an  expedition  on  which  his  mind  had  been  so  long  and  so  resolutely  bent. 

"At  length,  in  the  year  1576,  by  the  countenance  and  assistance  of  Dudley, 
Earl  of  Warwick,  and  a  few  friends,  he  was  enabled  to  fit  out  two  small  barks, 
the  Gabriel  of  35  and  the  Michael  of  30  tons,  together  with  a  pinnace  of  10  tons. 
With  this  little  squadron  he  prepared  to  set  out  on  his  important  expedition,  and 
on  the  8th  of  June  passed  Greenwich,  where  the  court  then  was,  and  Queen  Eliz- 
abeth bade  them  farewell  by  shaking  her  hand  at  them  out  of  the  window. 

"On  the  11th  July,  1576,  they  came  in  sight  of  Friesland,  rising  like  pin- 
nacles of  steeples,  and  all  covered  with  snow !  This  island^  whose  position  has  so 
greatly  puzzled  geographers,  could  not  be  the  Friesland  of  Zeno,  but,  being  in  61° 
of  latitude,  was  evidently  the  southern  part  of  Greenland.  The  floating  ice 
obliged  Frobisher  to  stand  to  the  southwest,  till  he  got  sight  of  Labrador,  ahjng 
the  coast  of  which  he  then  stood  to  the  westward,  but  could  neither  reach  the 
land  nor  get  soundings  on  account  of  the  ice.  Sailing  to  the  northward  he  met 
with  a  great  island  of  ice  which  fell  in  i)ieces,  making  a  noise  as  if  a  great  clitie 
had  fallen  into  the  sea.  After  this  he  entered  a  strait  in  lat.  63°  8'.  This  strait, 
to  which  his  name  was  given  from  his  being  its  first  discoverer,  is  the  same  which 
was  afterwards  named  Lumley's  Inlet,  but  Frobisher's  Strait  teas  for  a  long  time 
supposed  hy  geographers  to  have  cut  off  a  portion  from  Old  Greenland,  till  Mr. 
Dalrymple  and  others  showed  the  fallacy  of  such  a  supposition.        *        ♦        # 

"Frobisher  set  sail  for  England  and  arrived  at  Harwich  on  tlie  2d  of  Octo- 
ber, 'highly  commended  ol  all  men  for  his  greate  and  notable  attempt,  but  specially 
famous  for  the  great  hope  he  brought  of  the  passage  to  Cathaia.'  That  hope,  how- 
ever, would  probably  have  died  away  but  for  an  accidental  circumstance  which 
had  been  disregarded  during  the  voyage.  Some  of  the  men  had  brought  home 
flowers,  some  grass,  and  one  a  piece  of  stone  'much  like  to  a  sea  cole  in  color,' 


H^  Hairs  Historic  Notes. 

iiifitl\  lor  the  sake  of  tlic  place  tVoiii  avIk'hcc  tlicy  came.  A  piece  of  this  black 
stoue  beiiiir  jiiveii  to  one  of  the  adventurer's  wives,  by  cLanee  slie  threw  it  into  the 
tire,  and,  whether  from  accident  or  curiosity,  having  quenched  it  while  hot  with 
\  iufo^ar  '  it  glistered  with  a  bright  marquesset  of  golde.'  The  noise  of  this  inci- 
dent was  soon  si.read  abroad,  and  the  stone  was  assayed  by  the  'gold  finers  of 
Loudon,'  who  reported  that  it  contained  a  considerable  quantity  of  gold.  A  new 
\oyage  was  innnediately  set  on  foot  for  the  following  year,  in  which  we  are  told 
b\  Master  George  Beste,  Frobishei-'s  Lieutenant,  that  'the  Captaine  was  specially 
iliivcted  by  commission  for  the  searching  more  of  this  golde  ore  than  for  the 
searching  any  further  discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage.'" 

SECOND  VOYAGrE,    1577. 

Froliisher  was  now  openly  countenanced  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  on  taking 
!ea\e  for  his  second  roya(jc  had  the  honor  of  kissing  Her  Majesty's  hand,  who  dis- 
missed him  '"  with  gracious  counteimnce  and  comfortable  words."  He  was  besides, 
furnished  with  one  tall  ship  of  her  Majesty's  named  "y^  Ayde^^  of  two  hundred 
t  unne  or  thereabouts ;  and  two  other  little  barkes  likewise ;  the  one  called  the 
Gahriell,  whereof  Master  Fenton  was  Captaine:  and  the  other,  the  Michael, 
whereof  Master  Yorke,  a  gentleman  of  My  Lord  Admirall's  was  Captaine:" 
these  two  vessels  were  about  30  tons  each.  On  the  27th  May  (1577)  having 
received  the  Sacrament  and  prepared  themselves  "as  good  Christians  toward 
tiod,  and  resolute  men  f(jr  all  fortunes,"  they  left  Gravesend,  and  after  a  long 
passage  fell  in  with  Friesland,  in  Lat.  COp,  on  the  4th  of  July,  the  mountains 
covered  with  snow,  and  the  coast  almost  inaccessible  from  the  great  quantity  of 
drift  ice.        #        ♦        * 

Four  days  were  here  spent  in  vain  endeavor  to  land,  after  which  they  stood 
foi  t  he  strait,  discovered  by  them  the  i)receding  year.  They  arrived  off  the  North 
loicland.  (Otherwise  Hall's  island,  so  called  after  the  num  Mho  had  picked  up  the 
;:ol.|.ii  ore  and  who  was  now  Master  of  the  Gabriell.  They  proceeded  some  dis- 
lance  up  the  Strait,  when,  on  the  18th  of  July,  the  general  taldng  the  gold-finers 
with  him,  lamh-d  near  the  spot  where  the  ore  had  been  picked  up,  but  (;ould  not 
hiid  in  the  whole  island  "a  peece  as  bigge  as  a  walnut :"  But  all  the  neighboring 
islands  are  staled  to  have  good  store  of  the  ore.  On  the  top  of  a  high  hill  about 
two  miles  from  the  sliore  they  nmde  a  columne  or  crosse  of  stones,  heaped  up  of 
a  giKxl  heighth  t<»j;ither  in  good  sort,  and  solemnly  sounded  a  trumpet  &  saidc 
«;<TLaine  prayeis,  kneeling  about  the  ensigne,  and  honoured  the  place  by  the  name 
of  Mount   Wmiciike.         •         *         • 


Addenda  to  HalVs  Notes.  1 7 

They  now  stood  over  to  the  Southern  shore  of  Frobislier's  Strait,  ami  landed 
on  a  small  island  with  the  gold  finers  to  search  for  ore :  and  here  all  the  sands 
and  cliffes  did  so  glister,  and  had  so  bright  a  marquesite,  that  it  seemed  all  to  be 
golde,  but  u])on  tryall  made,  it  proved  no  better  than  black  lead  and  verilied  the 
proverbe; — "all  is  not  golde  that  glistereth."        *        *        * 

As  the  season  was  far  advanced  and  tlie  general  (Commission  directed  him 
to  sear(;h  I'or  gold  ore,  and  to  defer  the  further  discovery  of  the  passage  till 
another  time,  they  set  about  the  lading  of  the  ships,  and  in  the  space  of  twenty 
days,  Mdth  the  help  of  a  few  gentlemen  and  soldiers  got  on  board  almost  two 
liundred  tons  of  ore.  On  the  22d  of  August,  after  making  bonfires  on  the  highest 
mount  on  this  island,  and  firing  a  volley  for  a  farewell  "in  honor  of  the  Eight 
Hon.  Lady  Anne,  Countess  of  Warwicke,  whose  name  it  beareth"  they  set  sail 
homewards,  and  after  a  stormy  i)assage,  they  all  arrived  safe  in  different  ports  of 
Great  Britain,  with  the  loss  only  of  one  man  by  sickness,  and  another  who  was 
washed  overboard.        *        *        * 

THIRD  VOYAGE   (1578). 

The  Queen  and  her  court  were  so  highly  delighted  "in  finding  that  the 
matter  of  the  gold  ore  had  appearance  and  made  show  of  great  riches  and  profit, 
and  the  hope  of  the  passage  to  Cathaia  by  this  last  voyage  greatly  increased"; 
that,  after  a  minute  examination  by  Commissioners  specially  appointed,  the  voyage 
was  determined  to  be  highly  worthy  of  being  followed  up.  The  Queen  gave  the 
name  of  Meta  Incognita  to  the  newly  discovered  country,  on  which  it  was  resolved 
to  establish  a  colony.  *  *  *  rpj^^  g^^^  sailed  from  Harwich  the  31st  of 
May,  1578,  and,  on  the  20th  of  June,  discovered  West  Friesland,  which  they  now 
named  West  England.  *  *  *  They  found  The  Strait  choked  up  with 
ice,  and  the  bark  Dennis  received  such  a  blow  with  a  rock  of  ice  that  she  imme- 
diately sank,  but  the  people  were  all  saved.  "A  violent  storm  now  came  on  and 
the  whole  fleet  was  dispersed.  *  *  *         They  all  however  arrived  at 

various  ports  of  England  about  the  1st  of  October,  with  the  loss  by  death  of  about 
40  j)ersons." 


ADDENDA  TO  HALL'S  ABSTRACT. 

I.  There  will  be  found  in  "Geo.  Beste's  True  Discourse  of  the  late  voyage 

of  Discoverie  for  the  finding  of  a  Passage  to  Cathaya  by  the  North  Weast  under 

the  conduct  of  Martin  Erobisher  Generall,"  the  statements  that  Erobisher,  on  his 

first  voyage,  sailed  50  miles  up  the  waters  which  he  took  for  a  strait,  aud  believed 

S.  Ex.  27 2 


18  Addenda  to  HalVs  Notes. 

that  it  extended  across  the  continent  througii  wliicli  ships  might  reach  China. 
AVith  Christoi)her  Hall,  he  climbed  a  high  mountain,  fi'om  which  they  saw  to  the 
southeast  t  he  t  wd  headlands  which  marked  the  entrance  to  their  "  Straits."  Look- 
ing to  the  northwest,  they  saw  the  sea  still  extending  to  the  horizon.  The  tides 
and  currents,  too,  set  in  from  that  direction;  and  thus  everything  went  to  con- 
liriu  Frobisher's  belief  that  he  had  found  another  Magellan's  Straits.  On  his  Sec- 
ontl  Expedition  his  Instructions  were  not  to  push  through  the  Strait  into  China 
/■»»/•  (hv  present,  gold  being  the  first  consideration. 

II.  On  his  third  voyage  he  found  "such plenty  of  black  ore,  that  if  thegfoorf- 
iHss  might  answer  the  great  plenty  thereof  it  might  reasonably  suffice  all  the  gold 
gluttons  in  the  World."  It  is  a  well  known  matter  of  history  that  Frobisher  loaded 
his  ships  with  this  ore,  which,  on  his  return  to  England,  proved  to  be  but  a  black 
stone  tilled  probably  with  iron  pyrites.  It  was  used  only  for  filling  up  the  London 
Docks,  and  for  ballasting  ships.  The  Merchant,  Michael  Lok,  who  had  pledged 
his  means  and  credit  for  the  outfits  of  the  first  and  the  thhxl  expedition,  was 
shut  up  in  Fleet-street  Prison  and  with  his  fifteen  children  hopelessly  ruined. 

Hall  brought  home  some  of  the  like  stone,  a  small  quantity  of  which,  loaned 
with  other  relics  by  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  was  included  in  the  Arctic  exhibit 
l>laced  for  the  Naval  Observatory  in  the  Government  building  at  the  late  United 
States  Centennial.    The  ore  is  sometimes  called  Fool's  Gold. 

HI.  The  iiuthor  of  the  latest  account  of  Frobisher's  voyages  says 
of  Hall: 

Nearly  three  centuries  elapsed  before  the  Countess's  Sound  and  Island  were 
again  visited  by  an  Anglo-Saxon,  and  he  was  an  American.  In  18Gl-'2  Captain 
C.  F.  Hall  spent  two  years  among  the  Eskimos.  The  Countess's  Island  he  found 
to  be  called  Kodlunarn,  or  the  island  of  the  white  man.  The  account  he  received 
from  tlie  natives  of  Frobisher's  visits  is  a  curious  confirmation  of  the  value  of 
tnulit ion  among  savage  peoples.  Captain  Hall  Iiad  not  then  read  any  narrative 
of  the  Admiral's  three  voyages,  and  heard  the  traditions  as  a  new  and  strange 
tale,  whieh  he  was  not  then  in  a  position  to  test  or  correct. 

Jle  was  told  that  the  white;  men's  ships  had  come,  first  tw'O,  then  three,  then 
many.  The  wliite  mcii  had  taken  away  two  of  their  women,  who  had  never  come 
back.  Many  fragments  of  briek,  tiles,  iron,  et  cetera,  were  shown  him.  Beste's 
I5ulwark  wa-^  trared.     The  small  house  of  lime  and  stone  had  been  well  built,  for 


Addenda  to  HaJVs  Notes.  19 

Captain  Hall  found  it  after  the  three  centuries,  in  a  good  state  of  preservation. 
Tliey  told  him  also  how  that  their  peoi)le  had  capturcid  five  of  the  white  men; 
that  they  had  wintered  among  them.  Then  they  showed  him  an  excavation  on 
Kodhiiiarn  eighty-eight  feet  long  and  six  feet  deep,  which  the  while  men  had  dug, 
wliile  on  the  shore  was  an  inclined  trench  or  slij).  Here  the  five  captive  English- 
liien,  having  dug  up  the  buried  timbers  of  the  Fort,  built  a  large  boat,  which  had 
a  mast  in  her,  with  sails.  Their  boat  had  proved  to  bo  a  floating  collin;  for, 
according  to  the  natives,  the  Englishmen  having  finished  their  cralt,  set  sail  too 
early  in  the  season  5  some  froze  their  hands  in  the  attempt ;  yet  they  had  finally 
set  out,  and  had  never  been  seen  afterwards. 

Such  was  the  sequel  of  the  story  of  the  five  Englishmen  who  had  fallen  vic- 
tims to  their  love  of  peltry  dimug  the  first  voyage  of  the  'Gabriel';  and  thus  were 
identified  the  island  and  long  sought  port  of  the  third  voyage,  where  the  first 
English  Colony  was  attempted  on  the  American  Continent.  (Life  of  Martin  Fro- 
bisher,  with  a  narrative  of  the  Armada:  Eev.  F.  Jones.    London,  1878.) 

IV.  In  the  excellent  "Collection  of  Historical  Tracts,"  made  by  the  late  Col. 
Peter  Force,  of  Washington,  to  be  found  in  the  library  of  the  State  Department, 
may  be  seen  the  "Neues  of  Walter  Raleigh";  in  which  tract  is  a  very  curious 
notice  of  Frobisher's.  voyages  and  of  their  influence  on  Thomas  Cavendish,  or 
"Candish,"  of  London,  in  determining  him,  A.  D.  1586,  to  set  out  on  his  voyage 
around  the  world.  Cavendish  was  the  second  Englishman  who  made  such  a 
voyage.  Drake,  in  1578,  had  attempted  to  solve  the  i^roblem  of  the  Northwest 
Passage,  reaching  lat.  48°  N.  only  on  the  western  coast  of  America. 


Uhapter 


JJ- 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  VOYAGE  COMPLETED;   HALL 
SAILS  FROM  NEW  LONDON  FOR  ST.  JOHNS. 

DECEMBER,  1862,  TO  JULY,  1864. 


CHAPTER   II. 


Hall  lectures  for  his  personal  support  and  that  of  the  two  Eskimos— His  care 
OF  these  people  ;  death  of  Tuk-ee-li-kee  ta — Friends  gained  for  the  Second  Expe- 
dition— Plan  of  an  Expedition  submitted  by  Hall,  March  17,  1863,  to  Mr.  Grin- 
nell  and  R.  H.  Chapell,  of  New  London,  Conn. — Hall's  preference  for  a  plan 
which  would  not  include  whaling — Financial  difficulties — Embarrassments  in 
forming  new  friendships — determination  to  go  out  a  second  time,  even  for  an 
absence  of  ten  years — Expectation  of  finding  new  whaling  grounds— Corre- 
spondence ON  this  subject  with  Mr.  R.  H.  Chapell  and  Professor  Bache,  Superin- 
tendent United  States  Coast  Survey — Disappointment  as  to  assistance  from  the 
legislature  and  from  the  New  York  Chamber  of  Commerce— Failure  to  obtain 
A  loan  of  instruments  from  the  government — Card  to  the  public,  postponinc^ 
THE  Expedition  to  another  year — Hall  resumes  work  on  the  "Arctic  Re- 
searches"— Lectures   before    the    Long   Island   Historical  Society — May,   ld64. 

RENEWS    HIS   APPEAL,    INDORSED    BY    LEADING    CITIZENS— LOANS   OF    INSTRUMENTS— FREE 
PASSAGE   TENDERED  BY  Mr.    CHAPELL— HOSPITABLE    RECEPTION  AT    NEW  LONDON — SAILS 

FOR  St.  .John's. 

His  first  expedition  having  secured  an  honorable  place  in  history, 
Hall  now  entered  upon  a  course  of  lectures,  chiefly  with  the  design  of 
convincing  the  public  of  his  probable  success  on  renewing  exploration ; 
but  with  the  additional  reasons  found  in  the  necessity  for  securing 
support  for  himself  and  for  his  two  Eskimo  friends.  He  seems  to  have 
been  carefully  mindful  of  their  welfare.  "Everything,"  he  wrote  to 
Captain  Budington,  "must  be  done  to  protect  the  health  of  these  peo- 
ple ;  the  assistance  which  I  hope  to  receive  from  them  on  my  sledge 
trip  is  too  important  for  us  to  relax  our  exertions  to  have  them  com- 
fortable."    For  their  benefit  he  accepted  offers  of  compensation  for 

23 


24  HalVs  Lectures. 

their  temporarv  attendance  at  museums  in  New  York  and  Boston ; 
but,  on  learning'  their  personal  discomfort,  incident  to  a  close  and  heated 
atmospliere,  he  followed  the  advice  of  friends  in  refusing  his  consent 
f(»r  their  presence  at  any  other  lectures  than  his  own  ;  and  this  as  more 
consistent  with  the  character  of  his  work. 

I)uriiiL;-  the  months  of  December,  1862,  and  January,  1863,  lec- 
tures in  Providence,  Norwich,  Hartford,  New  Haven,  Hudson,  Elmira, 
and  other  cities  secured  the  attendance  of  large  audiences.  Among 
the  prominent  citizens  of  Providence  who  invited  him  to  that  city 
were  II(^n.  II.  B.  Anthony,  President  Sears  of  Brown  University,  Hon. 
,].  \l  Bartlett,  Prof  J.  B  Angell,  Gov.  J.  Y.  Smith,  Ex-Gov.  E.  Dyer, 
and  )[ai    W.  M,  Kodman. 

After  the  Arctic  lecture  in  Hartford,  Professor  Silliman  indorsed 

Hall's  work  and  his  proposals  for  a  new  expedition  by  saying,  in  the 

Hartford  Courant : 

Mr.  Hall  possesses  much  knowledge  not  found  in  books,  the  fruits  of  his 
own  experience ;  the  discoveries  he  has  made  in  the  Polar  Eegions  are  regarded 
Ity  ;:<'(»grai)liers  as  of  decided  importance.  Indeed,  he  did  not  himself  reahze 
tliai  importance  until  since  his  return  after  more  than  two  years'  exile.  No  civ- 
ilized man  has,  heretofore,  been  able  to  identify  himself  so  completely  with  the 
Eskimos.  Speaking  their  language  and  adopting  their  modes  of  life  and  of 
voyaging,  lie  is  enabliid  to  reach  with  safety,  and  even  with  comfort,  regions 
liitlniici  (Irciiicd  iii;HC('ssil)lo.  Old  Martin  Frobisher  has  become  redivivus  under 
tin-  \»'iy  micxjxMicd  revelations  now  made. 

At  these  ('(niversational  lectures  Hall  traced  on  his  maps  of  the 
ln(  ajities  lie  liad  visited,  the  tracks  of  the  old  voyagers  Frobisher, 
Davis,  Hailiii,  and  others,  as  well  as  his  own  late  explorations.  The 
l'nit(-<l  States  flag,  loaned  by  Mr.  Grinnell  to  the  expediton  of  Dr. 
Kane,  aii<l  bmnc  by  liim  sf>  near  to  the  Pole,  was  always  saluted  by 
the  audience;   and  the  Ivsklnio  family  were  objects  of  much  interest  as 


HaWs  Lectures.  25 

among  tlie  first  of  their  nice  who  had  domiciled  in  the  United  States. 
Too-koo-h-too  showed  an  unexpected  knowledge  of  the  geography  of 
her  country,  reminding  Arctic  students  of  the  native  woman  Iligliuh, 
and  of  her  cliart  drawn  for  Parry.  The  lecturer  himself  could  not 
claim  the  polish  or  the  ease  of  oratory,  but  as  he  handled  his  subject 
with  tact  as  well  as  enthusiasm,  he  succeeded  in  seeming  close  atten- 
tion on  the  part  of  the  audience,  and  was  ready  to  answer  numerous 
inquiries.  His  friends  regretted  that,  under  a  general  rule  against  all 
pay  lectures,  the  Smithsonian  Institution  could  not  give  him  the  use  of 
the  audience  room  in  which  Kane  and  Hayes  had  lectured,  for  he  had 
hoped  to  interest  the  officers  of  the  Government  at  Washington,  and 
obtain  an  appropriation,  and  had  been  encouraged  towards  this  by 
prominent  men.  He  seems  to  have  been  wholly  unable  to  realize  how 
small  is  the  circle  of  the  liberal  for  scientific  purposes  and  how  nar- 
rowed that  circle  was  at  the  time  by  the  war.  He  solicited  the  aid  of 
the  Hon.  Henry  Wilson,  of  the  United  States  Senate,  to  obtain  an  ap- 
propriation by  Congress  of  $25,000. 

The  proceeds  of  the  lectures  were  by  no  means  encouraging.  He 
had  proof  of  their  having  secured  man}?-  friends  in  eminent  positions, 
but  as  to  the  pecuniary  gain  '4ie  was  even  worse  off  than  when  he 
started  out."  The  necessary  expenses  generally  devoured  the  pro- 
ceeds of  admission  fees,  made  low  to  suit  the  war  times.  Contrary  to 
the  general  supposition,  nothing  at  all  adequate  to  the  support  of  his 
Eskimos  was  ever  realized  from  this  source ;  the  contributions  for  them 
from  Mr.  Grinnell,  however,  exceeded  six  hundred  dollars,  and  other 
generous  friends  not  unfrequently  volunteered  their  aid. 

In  despite  of  discouragements.  Hall  still  pushed  forward  his  plans, 
publishing  his  first  outlines  of  them  in  the  columns  of  the  New  York 


26  Sanguine  Hopes. 

Journal  of  Commerce,  December  3,  1862  Very  probably  a  sanguine 
temperament,  excited  sometimes  by  even  a  few  strong  words  of  sym- 
l»athy  from  friends,  prompted  him  to  give  unwarranted  weight  to  such 
words.  xVs  a  picture  of  his  feelings  and  of  his  way  of  recording  his 
experiences,  a  single  extract  is  given  from  a  letter  written  at  this  date : 

"My  heart  is  too  full  to  record  the  happiness  of  a  meeting  to-night. 
Mr.  Grinnell's  whole  family  are  so  deeply  devoted  to  my  renewed 
expedition,  that  Mr.  G.  and  his  wife  offer  their  son,  now  in  the  United 
States  Xaw,  to  go  with  me  to  King  William's  Land,  and,  if  need  be, 
he  will  contribute  Si 0,000  to  insure  a  research.  'There  must  be  some- 
thing more  done,'  he  said,  'in  search  of  Franklin's  Expedition.'"  "When 
P^ngland  hears  of  this,"  Hall  wrote  to  Budington,  "I  would  not 
wonder  if  other  expeditions  should  follow."  This  last  expression 
^^  n.<  made  at  a  time  when  the  English  GoA^ernment  were  adhering 
to  their  iinal  refusal  for  all  further  search.  The  subject  was  not, 
indeed,  revived  in  any  official  form  until  the  unsuccessful  proposi- 
tions of  1865  were  discussed  by  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  after 
Hall  liad  ajjain  sailed.  Had  he  not  been  sincere  in  his  statements  that 
his  object  was  primarily  the  relief  of  Franklin's  party,  he  would  hardly 
hav<.'  laid  this  stress  upon  tlie  hope  that  other  expeditions  Avould  come 
out  from  England  for  the  same  object. 

I  lis  ))rivate  note-books  and  diaries  are  trustworthy  witnesses  of 
the  intiuences  under  wjiicli  he  brought  his  thoughts  during  this  period 
<»f  .study  and  personal  preparation.  The  following  selections  are  taken 
from  one  of  these  books,  which  contain  chiefly  extracts  and  careful  ref- 
eri-nccsto  scientific  autliorities  : 

Oni  ..i.:,i.>i  ^l(,iy  consists  not  in  never  Jalliiif?,  but  in  rising  every  time  we 
'•'II-  *         TIm*  (piestion  is  not  the  number  of  facts  a  man  knows,  but 

hou  mncli  of  :i  i;iri  lie  is  liiuisell".        #         *         #         Great  personal  activity  at 


^■ 


c;-4^^^ 


C^X..y*^,^^r^ 


From  a  photograph  in  the  possession  of  Charles  H.  Grundy,  Esq.,  New  York. 


Private  Notes.  27 

times  and  closely  sedentary  and  severely  thoughtful  habits  at  other  times,  are  the 
forces  by  which  men  accomplish  notable  enterprises.  They  mature  i)laiis,  after 
which,  ^vith  energies  braced  to  their  work,  they  move  to  the  easy  conquest  of 
difficulties  accounted  formidable. 

Some  of  these  apothegms  copied  from  a  rare  volume  loaned  to 
him  by  his  friend  Mr.  J.  D.  Caldwell,  of  Cincinnati,  are  found  em- 
phasized for  his  own  impress  by  being  underscored  almost  word  by 
word ;  nor  did  he  fail  to  note  at  length  in  his  diary  the  sentiments  of 
Professor  Henry  expressed  in  his  communication  to  the  Board  of  Re- 
gents of  the  Smithsonian  Institution  in  1857  in  regard  to  his  di.scoveries 
in  electro-magnetism,  that  "he  had  freely  given  the  results  of  his 
labors  to  the  world,  expecting  only  in  retitrn  to  enjoy  the  conscious- 
ness of  having  added  to  the  sum  of  human  happiness."  He  noted 
down  also  the  sentiment  expressed  by  Smithson  himself,  that  every 
man  is  a  valuable  member  of  society,  who  by  his  obsei*\^ations,  re- 
searches,  and  experiments  procures  knowledge  for  men. 

To  the  encouragements  offered  by  more  able  and  influential  friends 

were  added  those  from  Captain  Budington  and  his  wife,  whose  kindly 

messages  from  their  humble  home  in  Groton,  Conn.,  were  frequent, 

and  were  plainly  effective  on  his  spirits  and  on  his  labors.     These  at 

this  time  were  very  arduous.     On  the  27tli  January,  1863,  he  wrote 

to  Budington  from  his  quarters  on  Fourth  street,  New  York,  where  he 

was  "near  the  libraries  and  Mr.  Grinnell : " 

There  is  such  a  vast  amount  of  work  on  my  hands  that  it  becomes  my  duty 
to  ask  if  it  is  possible  for  me  to  make  arrangements  by  which  you  can  again  take 
the  Eskimos  into  your  family.  Were  it  not  that  I  Iiave  a  book  on  hand,  and  also 
preparation  for  another  voyage  in  four  mouths  from  now,  I  would  not  ask  this. 

At  Elmira  they  had  taken  severe  colds,  and  Hall  found  he  could 
do  notliing  but  nurse  the  sick,  while  in  addition  to  his  cares  was  the 


28  Conference  for  the  Second  Voyage. 

death  of  tlu-ir  infant  iKk-ce-li-Jie-ta,  born  to  this  Eskimo  couple  in 
Rescue  Bay,  September  0,  1861.  He  records  in  liis  journal  his  sym- 
j)athy  with  the  mother,  who  was  herself  thought  to  be  near  death,  but 
who  rallied  and  attended  her  child's  funeral  at  Groton.  The  health 
of  these  people  was  excellent  for  some  time  after  their  arrival  in  the 
United  States,  but  the  change  of  food  and  of  climate  began  sensibly 
to  atlect  the  ''  icy  children  of  the  North." 

On  tlic  17th   March,  1863,  an  anxiously-awaited  conference  w^as 

Ijeld  witli   Ml-.  Grinnell  and  Mr.  R.  H.  Chapell,  of  the  house  of  AVill- 

iams  lit  Haven,  at  wliich  Hall  presented  the  following  first  notes  for 

his  second  expedition: 

Proposed  expedition  to  Boothia  and  King  WilliamK^  Land  for  the  final  determination 
of  all  the  imjsterions  matters  relative  to  Sir  John  Franldin''s  Expedition. 

I.  A  vessel  of  about  200  tons,  to  be  furnished  and  provisioned  for  two  years 
and  six  months,  the  same  to  be  under  my  command. 

II.  This  vessel  to  be  fitted  out  for  whaling,  the  object  being  to  have  the 
whole  expense  of  the  expedition  paid  by  the  proceeds  of  whale  bone  and  oil. 

III.  This  vessel  to  go  on  or  before  the  1st  of  June  of  the  present  year,  to 
make  direct  for  the  north  side  (near  the  entrance  of  Frobisher's  Bay),  there  to 
take  aboard  thi-ee  or  foiu'  Eskimos,  with  their  wives,  also  sledges  and  dogs;  then 
to  make  for  Ilud.son's  Strait ;  thence  to  Hudson's  Bay,  west  side,  south  of  South- 
amjtton  Island;  thence  up  the  channel  of  Sir  Thomas  Howe's  Welcome  to  Repulse 
Bay. 

1  \'.  H  whales  are  found  on  the  way,  to  secure  as  many  as  possible,  yet  no 
further  delay  to  be  allowed  than  will  admit  of  getting  into  Eepulse  Bay  by  or  on 
the  1st  of  Sejitember  of  the  same  year  as  starting. 

y .  If  it  is  judged  advisable  under  certain  contingencies  for  the  vessel  to  pro- 
ceed at  ()nc<'  to  otlier  wliale  grounds  than  that  of  Repulse  Bay,  she  must  do  so 
aft«'r  liaving  landed  me  and  my  special  i)arty  and  outfit  for  land  service,  to  wit, 
for  my  expedition  from  Repulse  Bay  to  King  William's  Land. 

VI.  Three  men  fioin  the  States  to  be  my  special  party,  to  wit:  Walter  Grin- 
n<'ll,  of  N(.-\\  V(.ik ;  I'raiiU    IJngers,  of  Xcw  London,  Conn.,  and  William  Sterry, 


Plans  Submitted.  29 

of  Grotoii,  of  the  same  State;  also,  to  be  of  the  same  special  party,  the  I'^skiinos 
Ebierbiiig-  and  Too-koo-li-too,  whom  I  brought  to  the  States,  thr  hittci-  to  be  iii\ 
interpreter. 

VII.  Sterry  and  a  part  of  the  natives  I  take  from  Frobisher's  Bay,  to  Ix-  kit 
at  the  head  of  Repulse  Bay,  in  charge  of  a  depot  of  provisions  to  be  established 
there.  Furthermore,  the  duty  of  Sterry  and  the  natives  to  hunt  and  capture- 
seals  and  walrus,  and  barter  Avith  the  natives  around  Repulse  Bay  for  walrus 
ivory,  Polar  bear,  fox,  wolf,  and  other  skins,  for  the  l)enelit  of  all  concerned. 

VIII.  A  cheap  frame  house,  to  be  constructed  (portable)  here  in  the  States, 
the  same  to  be  landed  at  Repulse  Bay,  and  to  be  used  there  for  storing  provisions 
therein,  and  also  as  a  residence  and  for  headquarters.  (Such  houses  arc  now 
used  by  whalers  in  Northumberland  Inlet. 

IX.  Providing  such  an  emergency  arise  that  I  should  he  ohliged  to  retreat  from 
Boothia  and  King  William's  Land  and  seek  provisions,  and  also  for  a  place  to 
recruit,  I  should  be  certain  of  tinding  the  same  at  all  times  at  Repulse  Bay  depot. 

X.  Occasionally  to  send  an  Eskimo  friend,  with  sledge  draAvn  by  dogs,  from 
Boothia  and  King  William's  Land  to  headquarters  at  Repulse  Bay  for  anything 
that  I  might  require.  Without  doubt  I  shall  have  occasion  to  send  to  Re])ulse 
Bay  many  packages  of  relics  I  may  find  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition.  If  I 
have  the  great  good  fortune  to  discover  the  Ships  Erebus  and  Terror's  papers,  it 
will  be  my  duty  to  accomj)any  the  same  in  their  transport  to  Repulse  Bay.  After 
securing  these  as  treasures  of  untold  value  to  the  civilized  world,  I  am  then  to  return 
to  King  William's  Land  and  Boothia  and  prosecute  the  search.  Should  I  be  still 
more  fortunate,  and  should  I  find  living  among  the  Eskimos  one  or  several  of 
Sir  John  Franklin's  men,  my  heart,  overwhelming  with  unspeakable  joy,  will 
direct  me  then  and  there  what  is  best  to  be  done. 

XL  Provisions  of  the  most  condensed  character,  such  as  pemmican,  Bor- 
den meat,  biscuit,  desiccated  meat,  and  vegetables,  to  be  pro\aded  for  the  Repulse 
Bay  depot ;  also,  a  proper  quality  of  flour,  sea-bread,  ammunition,  guns,  astronom- 
ical and  other  instruments,  medicines,  clothing,  a  Haklet  boat,  &c.,  &c.,  including 
proper  articles  for  bartering  with  the  natives  and  for  compensating  the  services  I 
may  require  of  them ;  perhaps  it  may  be  well  to  add  wood  and  coal  to  these 
articles,  the  same  to  be  used  as  fuel  at  Repulse  Bay  headquarters. 

XIL  By  establishing  headquarters  at  Repulse  Bay  as  indicated  above,  hav- 
ing there  a  whale-boat  strongly  constructed,  and  having  there  also  Frobisher  Bay 
Eskimos,  there  need  to  he  no  hinder  ance  to  the  force  employed  on  the  vessel  from  prose- 
cuting to  the  fullest  extent  that  branch  of  the  expedition,  to  wit,  whaling. 


30  Plans  Submitted. 

Xni.  Should  such  success  be  met  with  that  the  vessel  becomes  filled  with 
whale  oil  and  bone  before  I  have  completed  my  research  for  the  object  and  at  the 
point  designed,  the  same  to  be  reshipped  l)y  some  other  vessel  to  the  States,  or 
the  vessel  to  be  sent  home,  taking  along  my  dispatches  and  such  relics  as  I  may 
have  recovered  ;  said  ^'essel  to  sail  from  the  States  the  following  spring  for 
Eepulse  Bay. 

XIV.  The  whole  expenses  of  the  expedition  to  be  paid  from  the  proceeds 
of  the  whaling  branch,  proWding  the  amount  warrants  it. 

XY.  The  expenses  of  the  research  department  to  be  included  in  the  first 
cost  of  the  vessel,  outfit,  &c. 

XVI.  This  expedition  to  be  known  as  "The  Franklin  Eesearch  Expedition"; 
the  minor  details  of  it  only  to  be  understood  by  the  parties  most  deeply  interested. 

XVII.  By  having  a  boat's  crew  at  Eepulse  Bay  headquarters  shore- whal- 
ing could  be  prosecuted.  One  boat's  crew  might  be  made  up  of  the  natives.  The 
policy  of  adopting  this  scheme  could  be  determined  on  acquiring  information  of 
the  natives  at  Eepulse  Bay  whether  or  not  it  is  a  good  whaling  ground. 

Mr.  Grinnell  and  Mr.  Chapell  approved  the  general  ideas  pre- 
sented in  this  plan.  It  will  be  observed,  however,  that  the  returns  for 
the  proposed  outlay  were  to  be  looked  for  from  successful  adventure 
in  whaling,  in  which  feature  Hall  was  encouraged  to  place  confidence 
by  conversations  held  a  short  time  previously  with  his  friends  in  New 
London.  The  outlay  would  involve  the  sum  of  820,000,  and  the  first 
ideas  entertained  at  the  meeting  just  named,  limited  the  contributions 
for  this  object  chiefly  to  the  generous  co-operation  of  Mr.  Grinnell, 
Messrs.  Williams  &  Haven,  and  Mr.  Chapell.  Notwithstanding  their 
unquestionable  sincerity  and  their  mutual  confidence  in  Hall,  of  whom 
Mr.  Grinnell,  at  this  meeting,  said,  "  He  is  the  man  of  all  the  world  to 
be  sent  foi-tli  on  the  mission  to  solve  the  mysteries  enshrouding  the 
fate  ol"  I'raiikliirs  nicii,"  it  could  hardly  be  expected  that  these  enthu- 
sia.stic  hopes  of  immediate  equipment  could  be  realized.  Mr.  Grinnell 
had  spent  between  £20,000  and  £30,000  on  the  Franklin  Rehef  Expe- 
ditions, and  had  already  met  with  commercial  reverses  during  the  war, 


Hall  ivUl  go  Alone  if  he  Must  81 

amounting-,  at  that  date,  it  is  believed,  to  nearly  $500,000.     It  was  no 
time  for  either  of  the  commercial  houses  to  take  risks. 

Ten  days  later.  Hall  drew  up  in  detail  six  new  plans,  differing-  in 
their  estimates  and  in  the  question  whether  the  vessel  of  the  expedi- 
tion should  be  employed  in  whaling  or  in  exploration  only.  On  the 
first  of  these,  which  contemplated  exclusively  the  search  for  Franklin's 
party  and  the  object  of  geographical  discovery,  he  indorsed,  "  If 
there  were  a  possibility  of  raising  the  amount  of  $20,000  involved  in 
this  plan,  it  should  be  accepted  and  carried  out ";  on  the  second,  which 
he  called  "The  Combination  Research  and  Whaling  Expedition",  he 
indorsed,  "  Taking  into  consideration  all  the  circumstances  of  the 
times,  I  believe  this  the  most  feasible^''  He  strongly  expressed  him- 
self, however,  as  unwilling!}^  converted  to  the  idea  of  the  second  plan, 
considering  it  distasteful  to  unite  the  object  of  whaling  with  the  search 
for  Sir  John  Franklin's  party. 

Submitting  the  first  plan  to  Mr.  Grinnell  as  one  to  be  exclusively 
in  his  name  and  at  his  cost,  Hall  received  the  unavoidable  reply  that 
he  did  not  feel  that  his  means  would  justify  his  investing  the  amount 
indicated. 

The  four  last  propositions  dispensed  with  the  idea  of  providing  a 
special  vessel,  and  differed  within  themselves  chiefly  in  regard  to  the 
numbers  of  the  party  who  might  go  out  in  a  whaler.  Among  many 
offers  from  those  who  proposed  to  share  his  voyage,  was  one  from  Mr 
Washington  Peale,  an  artist  of  New  York,  whom  Hall  would  gladly 
have  had  to  accompany  him.  The  sixth  memorandum,  which  he 
called  his  "Last  Alternative",  provided  for  his  going  out  alone  in  a 
whaler  and  being  landed  wherever  the  natives  should  be  met  with,  to 


32  HalVs  Ahility  and  Industry. 

make  his  way  as  best  he  could  to  Repulse  Bay  and  thence  to  Boothia 
and  King-  WilHam's  Land. 

His  journal  entry  about  this  date,  made  after  a  series  of  disap- 
pointments during  the  day,  has  the  significant  paragraph:  "Again  I 
may  say  the  want  of  luster  on  my  habiliments  precludes  me  from  in- 
terviews with  those  from  whom  I  would  gain  knowledge ;  not  so  of 
Mr.  Grinnell ;  he  knows  I  am  poor,  and  yet  he  always  treats  me  as  if  I 
were  rich."  It  may  here  be  noted  that  while  Hall  made  like  honorable 
exceptions  in  connection  with  the  names  of  other  generous  friends, 
there  is  evidence  that  his  scanty  means  at  times  produced  the  errone- 
ous impression  on  the  minds  of  some  that  he  was  an  ignorant  person. 
He  felt  the  lack  of  what,  he  says,  makes  men  w^orthy  of  respect  in  the 
eyes  of  many. 

But  although  lacking  in  the  culture  that  a  collegiate  course  for 
which  he  had  been  prepared  would  have  conferred,  Hall  had  the 
advantages  of  a  New  England  academic  education,  built  upon  the 
qualities  of  strong  common  sense,  industry,  and  perseverance,  and 
these  had  fitted  him  to  grasp  the  subject  he  was  pursuing.  It  ought 
further  to  be  said  that  the  ship  captain  with  whom  he  sailed  on  his  first 
voyage,  unhesitatingly  declared  that  he  had  made  himself  a  fair  navi- 
gator on  the  outward  course,  having  availed  himself  of  what  opportu- 
nities he  could  command  for  receiving  practical  instruction  in  New 
Xork  Ijefore  sailing.  On  his  return  he  had  presented  to  Mr.  J.  Inger- 
soll  I^owditch  the  corrections  of  a  number  of  typographical  and  other 
cnoi-s  In  "'I'he  Navigator,"  which  were  adopted  in  the  subsequent  edi- 
tions, in  regard  1«>  wliicli  corrections  he  had  replied  to  an  inquiry  from 
Mr.  (I.  W.  Blunt  b\- s;i\  iuu"  that  "lie  had  made  them  while  working 
tliroiiL;li    Howditcli   during  a  winter  in  the  igloos."     For  reposing  con- 


Inquiries  as  to  Whalimj.  33 

fidence  in  his  ])l{tns,  liis  friends,  therefore,  luid  reasons  id  this  time 
seemingly  as  solid  as  those  which,  at  a  later  date,  i)r(>iiii)t((l  tlie 
learned  members  of  the  National  Academy  of  Sciences  to  say  in  their 
instructions  for  the  Polaris  Expedition — 

We  have,  however,  full  contideiice  not  only  in  the  ability  of  Captain  Hall 
and  his  Naval  associates  to  make  important  additions  to  the  geography  of  the 
Polar  Eegions,  but  also  in  his  interest  in  science  and  his  determination  to  do  all 
in  his  power  to  assist  in  determining  the  scientific  operations. 

If  he  was  enthusiastic  in  the  extreme,  there  was  some  method 
in  his  enthusiasm.  It  marks  a  strongly  determined  purpose  that  he 
should  write  in  his  private  journal,  in  connection  with  his  feelings  as 
quoted  above — 

I  may  record  my  opinion  that  I  cannot  succeed  in  getting  the  necessary  co- 
operation of  my  countrymen  to  carry  out  my  proposed  expedition.  God  only 
knows  my  struggles.  But,  single  handed  an<l  alone,  I  will  yet  accomi)lish  my 
purpose — for  I  know  it  is  a  just  and  noble  one — or  die  in  attempting  it.  I  will, 
if  possible,  get  passage  for  myself,  Ebierbiug,  and  Too-koo-li-too  in  June  next  to 
Frobisher  Bay.  By  degrees  I  will  push  northward  and  westward  till  I  reach 
Ig-loo-lik,  and  thence  to  liepulse  Bay,  and  in  time  to  Boothia  and  King  Williaiirs 
Land,  the  Meta  of  my  aspirations.  By  this  route  it  will  take  me  three  years  to 
to  reach  King  William's  Land,  three  years  to  return — in  all  I  shall  exi)ect  to  be 
absent  ten  years. 

His  two  cherished  objects  were  to  be  as  steadily  pursued  if  he  went 
alone  as  they  could  be  were  he  fully  equipped;  and  he  was  encouraged 
in  the  idea  of  securing  substantial  benefits  to  American  whaling  inter- 
ests by  the  replies  received  from  New  London,  then  vigorously  pursu- 
ing that  branch  of  industry.  His  inquiries  of  the  whaling-  firms  of  that 
city  had  been  in  relation  to  the  value  of  the  whale  oil  and  bone 
brought  home  in  American  ships  from  Davis  Straits,  Northumberland 

Inlet,  and  Hudson's  Bay. 
S.  Ex.  27 3 


34  Correspondence  as  to   Whaling. 

Writing  to  Mr.  l\.  H.  Chapell,  he  said : 

You  know  the  value  of  exploring  expeditions,  how  they  opened  up  the 
Spitzber*ien  whale-fishery,  and  those  of  Davis  Strait,  Baffin's  Bay,  and  Hudson's 
Bay.  I  am  greatly  in  liopes  of  demonstrating  to  you  on  my  proposed  expedition 
that  a  channel  exists  north  of  Hudson's  Strait  and  running  eastwardly  from  Fox 
Channel,  which  will  be  found  to  abotmd  hi  whales,  and  through  this  channel  an 
American  passage  to  Hudson's  Bay  will  be  found,  the  right  to  which  England 
can  never  question.     Tlie  great  area  of  our  commerce  should  not  be  allowed  to 

g(»  (1(»\V1I. 

lie  received  the  following-  reply : 

You  ask  of  me  some  information  relative  to  the  iiuportant  and  growing 
branch  of  the  whale-fishery  now  prosecuted  l)y  American  vessels  in  the  waters 
west  of  Greenland  and  Baffin's  Bay.  Within  the  last  six  years  this  new  ground 
has  opened  up  a  new  and  fruitful  field  for  the  enterprise  of  our  hardy  seamen. 
From  184G  to  1852  btit  one  American  vessel  fished  in  these  waters.  She  made 
six  voyages,  taking  in  all  about  3,500  barrels  of  oil  and  51,000  pounds  of  bone ; 
and  from  1853  to  1858  five  different  vessels  returned  from  these  waters  bringing 
75,000  barrels  of  oil  and  115,000  pounds  of  bone,  worth  $130,000. 

Owing  to  the  dangers  of  ice  navigation  and  want  of  knowledge  of  the  coun- 
try, tlie  business  on  the  whole  had  not  to  this  time  been  profitable  to  those  who 
prosecuted  it.  Since  1850  more  energy  has  been  displayed  and  greater  risks 
incurred  in  following  this  trade.  In  18G0,  two  fine  ships  were  fitted  out  from 
Fair  Haven,  ]\rass.,  at  a  large  cost,  for  the  express  purpose  of  pushing  still  far- 
ther west  toward  Fox's  Channel  or  Hudson's  Bay,  where  no  American  vessel  had 
ever  been,  in  search  of  a  new  and  better  whaling  ground. 

Without  accurate  (;harts,  in  waters  totally  unknown,  among  much  ice  and 
strong  currents,  in  short  days  and  long  nights,  in  fogs  and  gales  of  wind,  with 
hirgc  comi)ass  variations,  these  adventurous  navigators  pushed  their  way  and 
icaclicd  the  longitude  of  OOo  west,  spent  a  winter  there,  when  the  thermom- 
eter fell  to  (KP  below  zero,  obtained  cargoes  worth  sonu^  $00,000,  and  returned 
to  the  Cnited  States  in  1801. 

At  the  ])resent  time  there  nn'  fourteen  American  vessels  engaged  in  whaling 
in  the.se  waters.  Seven  of  these  have  passed  the  last  winter  there,  and  will  be 
exj.ected  home  the  coming  fall  with  cargoes  worth  nearly  $400,000. 

Ill  the  |)rosecuti<»ii  of  this  business  wo  need,  vory  much,  good  charts.     The 


Correspondence  vjith  Professor  Bache.  35 

best  I  have  ever  seen  were  drawn  by  some  of  tlie  intelligent  Eskimos,*  to 
whom  the  sliips  are  often  indebted  for  acts  of  liumanity  and  kindness.  T\w  latest 
J'^nglish  charts  and  the  reports  of  the  Eskimos  say  that  a  new  channel  can  be 
found  leading  from  Baffin's  Bay  to  "Fox's  Furthest";  could  this  be  proved  by  act- 
ual passage  it  would  be  of  great  use  to  our  ships.  I  wish  you  every  success  in 
your  proposed  voyage,  and  have  no  doubt  that  it  will  redound  to  the  advance- 
ment of  business  interest  of  our  merchants  and  the  enterprise  of  our  people. 
Very  truly,  yours, 

R.  H.  CHAPELL. 

Contemplating"  a  leng-thened  residence  in  the  localities  visited  by 
the  whalers,  Hall  expressed  his  purpose  to  reach  all  such  as  would 
appear  to  be  promising  for  the  extension  of  the  whaling  interests. 

How  near  at  this  date  he  sanguinely  supposed  himself  to  have 

arrived  towards  the  maturity  of  his  arrangements  for  setting  out,  may 

be  learned  from  the  letter  which  follows.     It  was  addressed  to  one 

who  had  more  than  once  expressed  much  interest  in  his  plans,  Prof 

A.  D.  Bache,  the  distinguished  Superintendent  of  the  United  States 

Coast  Survey : 

June  5,  1863. 

Dear  Sm:  Your  favor  of  May  22d  was  duly  received.  I  have  tran- 
scribed a  few  lines  from  it :  "If  you  Avill  give  a  brief  outline  of  your  plan  and 
state  what  observations  you  intend  to  make,  and  what  instruments  you  have  not, 
I  will  try  as  an  individual  to  aid  you,  and  I  think  that  Professor  Henry  will  do 
so  too." 

In  reply  to  this  I  will  say :  It  is  now  arranged  that  I  leave  the  port  of  Xew 
York  on  or  about  the  1st  of  July  next,  in  a  vessel  of  one  hundred  tons,  the  vessel 
specially  selected  and  strengthened  for  ice  navigation.  On  reaching  the  north 
side  of  Bay  of  Frobisher,  lat.  02°  33'  N^.,  long.  05°  00'  W.,  I  take  aboard  four  (1) 
additional  Eskimos  (I  have  now  two  (2)  with  me).    These  Eskimos  are  to  be  my 

*For  some  sketches  of  coast  line  drawn  by  Eskimos  for  Hall,  see  chapters  xii  to  xiv, 
186()-'69.  For  statistics  of  the  whale-fishery  of  the  region  referred  to,  see  Report  of  Prof.  S.  F. 
Baird,  U.  S.  Fish  Commissioner,  for  1875-7C,  and  U.  S.  Consul  McDougall's  tabular  statements, 
Appendix  No.  VIII  of  this  Narrative. 


36  Correspondence  with  Professor  Bache. 

anxiliarios  in  oonnoetioii  witli  tlio  few  wliites  tliat  go  to  make  \\\)  my  ship's 
company. 

From  FrobisLer's  Bay  I  drop  down  to  Hudson's  Strait,  and  sail  westerly 
and  nortlicrly  to  the  meridian  of  72°  west  of  Greenland,  north  side  of  said  strait, 
and  here  commence  explorations,  getting  data  for  filling  up  the  now  blank  on  the 
English  and  American  charts  between  the  meridian  named  and  75°  west  longitude. 
Between  these  meridians  I  shall  find  an  extensive  inlet  trending  north.  This 
tliscovery  will  i)rove  of  great  value  to  our  commerce,  as  this  inlet  abounds  with 
whales  of  the  Mysticetus  kind.  I  gained  the  information  relative  to  this  bay  and 
its  inhabitants  from  the  Eskimos  I  met  when  exploring  the  so-called  Frobisher 
Straits,  which,  you  know,  I  determined  to  be  a  bay. 

This  i)art  of  the  coast  completed,  I  pass  to  Fox  Channel.  On  arriving  to 
"Fox's  Furthest,"  lat.  00°  50'  N.,  commence  exploration  and  continue  it  to  the 
Strait  of  Fury  and  Hecla.  From  Eskimo  reports,  I  shall  find  a  strait  of  great 
imi)ortance,  for  it  is  wide  and  abounding  with  some  species  of  whales  referred  to. 
This  fit  rait  connects  Fox's  Channel  icith  Davis'  Strait. 

If  1  find  the  Strait  of  Fury  and  Hecla  navigable  (that  is,  clear  of  ice)  shall 
push  through  it  for  Gulf  of  Boothia,  and  then  turn  to  the  north,  exploring  the 
west  coast  of  Cockburn  Island  to  the  parallel  of  Bellot  Strait.  Having  made 
the  passage  to  and  through  the  latter-named  strait,  shall  turn  to  the  south,  coast- 
ing along  the  Avest  side  of  F>ootliia  Peninsula  till  T  arrive  to  the  latitude  of  King 
William's  Land,  the  latter  l)eing  the  point  of  my  destination. 

On  (Mjmpleting  my  investigations  here  and  on  the  Isthmus  of  Boothia  Felix, 

relative  to  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition,  I  shall  make  my  way  for  Behring's 

Strait  by  way  of  the  Straits  of  James  C.  Ross,  Dease  and  Simpson,  Dolphin  and 

L'nion.     If  I  am  not  able  to  penetrate  through  the  Strait  of  Fury  &  Hecla,  shall 

turn  to  the  south  to  Repulse  Bay,  drop  anchor,  and  establish  headquarters ;  then 

from  this  jjoint,  l)y  means  of  dogs  and  sledges,  and  the  aid  of  Eskimos,  shall 

Hiakj.'  journeys  to  Boothia  Isthmus  and  King  William's  Land.     The  voyage  I  pro- 

IX)se  to  make  will  extend  over  three  years. 

Respectfnllv, 

C.  F.  HALL. 

The  sanj^uine  hopes  expressed  in  this  letter  were,  however,  again  to 
))<■  (lisap[>ointed.  It  is  unnecessary  to  detail  the  continued  embarrass- 
ment.s  and  rcbiifTs  which  Ijroiight  this  result;  they  had  nearly  culmi- 
nated when    Hall   made  tlic   journal   entries  which  have  been  quoted. 


Disairpointmcnts  37 

His  insurmomitablu  difficulties  at  tlic  time  may  be  referred  to  in  brief 
as  these : 

Although,  at  the  instance  of  Judge  Daly  and  of  Mr.  Waddell,  the 
secretary  of  the  American  Geographical  Society,  its  council  had  made 
two  efforts  to  hold  a  conference  with  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  of 
New  York  to  indorse  the  plans  referred  to,  and  secure  pecuniary  assist- 
ance for  them,  it  was  found  impossible  to  get  together  a  quorum  of 
the  Chamber  for  n  hearing.  A  second  disappointment  was  met  with 
in  the  failure  to  secure,  either  from  the  Navy  Department  or  from  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  the  loan  of  instruments  for  the  expedition. 
The  Navy  Department  did  not  feel  authorized  to  loan  the  public 
property  for  use  by  a  private  expedition.  ^Ilie  Smithsonian  regretted 
that  the  magnetic  apparatus  furnished  to  Dr.  Kane  had  been  after- 
ward lost  in  Mexico;  and  in  communicating  this  information  added 
that  "scarcely  any  results  could  be  obtained,  unless  some  one  properly 
educated  for  the  business  of  observation  should  devote  his  whole  time 
to  the  instruments."  The  Institution  inquired  at  considerable  length 
whether  Hall  would  not  find  it  in  his  power  to  make  extensive  col- 
lections in  natural  history,  as  it  possessed  but  little  on  that  subject  from 
Northeastern  America. 

Hoping  for  assistance  by  a  grant  from  the  Chandler  of  Conmierce 
or  by  the  City  Council  of  New  York,  and  encouraged  by  some  dona- 
tions. Hall  had  anchored  at  the  wharves  of  the  city,  on  the  same  day, 
The  Active,  a  schooner  offered  at  a  low  price  by  his  New  London 
friends,  and  a  yacht,  presented  by  Capt  H.  Robinson,  of  Newburg, 
N.  Y.,  for  the  strengthening  of  which  latter  vessel  lumber  had  been 
also  contributed  in  Newburg,  and  a  furtlier  most  generous  offer  had 
been  made  for  its  e(iuipment   l)y  Messrs    Poillou,  of  New  York.      He 


38  Card  Issued. 

had  also  made  an  arrangement  with  Messrs.  Harper,  the  generous  pub- 
hshers  of  his  forthcoming  "Researches,"  by  which  he  had  leave  to  post- 
pone further  work  iq)on  tlie  volume  until  his  return  from  his  proposed 
vo)-age 

But  the  local  embarrassments  and  the  excitement  growing  out  of 
the  opposition  to  the  enforcement  of  the  Registration  act,  passed  to 
secure  the  necessary  enlistments  of  soldiery  for  the  existing  war,  appear 
to  have  entirely  withdrawn  attention  from  all  subjects  of  less  moment 
tliau  the  engrossing  war-topics,  and  to  have  closed  off  the  increase  of 
private  contributions.  Hall  had  met  more  than  one  citizen  able  and 
willing  to  put  good  wishes  into  the  form  of  that  practical  aid  for  which 
New  York  is  well  noted;  but  they  were  restrained  by  such  feelings  as 
Horace  Greeley  expressed  in  strong  terms  when  he  said  to  him,  "No 
other  idea  should  now  be  entertained  by  any  man  who  loves  his  coun- 
try except  crushing  the  rebellion;  when  that  is  accomplished  one  might 
take  hold  of  an  Arctic  expedition."  The  New  London  schooner  was, 
therefore,  returned  to  her  owners,  and  the  yacht  Victoria,  with  the 
lumber  contributed  by  Mr.  John  Biglow,  was  sold,  that  its  proceeds 
might  be  invested  for  use  during  the  next  available  season.  The 
time  necessary  for  preparing  an  expedition  for  the  year  1863  having 
iKtw  passed  away,  Hall,  thus  hopelessly  hemmed  in  by  obstacles 
as  iiisui-iii<»uiital)]('  as  the  ice-masses  he  had  left  two  years  before, 
devoted  himself  laboriously  to  the  completion  of  his  book,  and  issued 

tlie  following  card : 

New  York,  July  10,  1SC3. 

Til  11)1/  Count rj/inrii  : 

W'liilc  on  my  Ar<-lic  voynjic.  ol"  ISOO-'fU-'dL*,  I  ]tl;iiiiiO(l  anotlior  expedition  for 
l.S(J.'}.  On  iclMiiiinii  to  tin-  St;it<'s  last  S('i)t«'nil)('i- (ISdi!)  I  stoi)iKMl  at  St.  .lolin's, 
Newfoundland,  and  tlicic  liisl  learned  thai  my  (.'ouiitry  was  engaged  in  war.     At 


The  Expedition  Postponed  to  18G4.  39 

once  I  felt  there  could  be  but  slight  hope  of  resuming-  my  Arctic  exploriitions  at 
the  time  i)roi)osed.  Arriving  in  the  States,  and  s])ending  a  few  weeks  among 
friends  devoted  to  Arctic  exi)lorations,  I  came  to  the  conclusion  to  spare  no  exer- 
tions in  preparing  for  my  second  expedition  to  the  Arctic  Seas.  In  my  struggle 
to  make  the  proper  preparations  I  have  labored  long  and  perseveringly,  the 
results  ofttimes  appearing  hopeful  of  my  ultimate  success.  I  need  only  to  refer 
to  the  stupendous  obstacle  (the  American  war)  that  has  been  constantly  before  me 
during  all  my  labors;  for  the  subject  is  absorbing  the  attention  of  the  whole  civil- 
ized world.  I  deeply  regret  to  say  that,  owing  to  the  want  of  sufiicient  means  and 
the  lateness  of  the  season,  I  am  now  compelled  to  postpone  my  exi)edition  till 
next  year.  In  the  mean  time  I  shall  proceed  to  prepare  my  narrative  of  my  late 
voyage  (18G0-'61-'62)  for  publication,  and  at  the  same  time  take  such  steps  as  will 
insure  the  necessary  aid  for  my  expedition  to  the  Arctic  Eegious,  now  postponed 
to  the  spring  of  18G4. 

Hall's  feelings  in  regard  to  the  labor  called  for  upon  his  book  will 
be  learned  from  a  single  expression  in  a  letter  of  October  20,  1863: 
"  I  have  been  deeply  engaged  for  weeks  and  months  upon  my  chart, 
and  yet  am  not  done  with  it.  I  had  rather  make  a  dozen  voyages  to 
the  regions  of  ice  and  snow  than  prepare  one  book  for  publication.  I 
fear  that  months  will  be  used  up  before  I  get  through  with  my 
book"; — words  which  may  recall  a  like  saying  accredited  to  Dr. 
Livingston,  that  he  would  rather  again  cross  Africa  than  write  his 
Expedition  to  the  Zambesi.  Kane,  too,  had  said  that  the  writing  of 
his  book  was  his  coffin.  Close  apj^lication  was,  however,  given  to  the 
"  Researches."     It  was  all  that  Hall  could  accomplish  during  the  year. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  spring  of  1864  direct  efforts  were  renewed, 
but  an  application  made  to  the  legislature  of  the  State  of  New  York 
for  an  appropriation  of  $25,000  and  an  appeal  to  the  Council  of  the 
city  were  alike  unsuccessful.  On  the  5th  of  May,  by  invitation  of  Rev. 
Dr.  R.  Storrs,  President  of  the  L(>ng  Island  Historical   Society,  Hall 


40  Appeal  Benewed  htj  Friends. 

gave  a  convorsatic^nal  lecture  on  lii.s  Arctic  experiences  and  his  proposi- 
ticai  tor  a  new  ex])e(liti()n.  The  Eskimo  family  were  present  in  their 
Arctic  costume.  The  repetition  of  the  invitation  to  lecture  shows  that 
the  vote  of  thanks  passed  by  the  Society  was  designed  to  be  more  than 
a  mere  conlorniity  tu  usage. 

Subscriptions  soon  after  this  began  to  be  offered,  and  the  follow- 
ing card  aj)i)eared  in  the  leading  newspapers  of  the  city: 

TO    THE    rUB  Lie. 

C'apt.  C.  F.  Uall,  who  twenty  montlis  ajio  returned  from  a  two  years  and 
four  niontlis'  exploration  of  tlie  Arctic  IvCgion,  intends  to  set  sail  on  the  lotli  of 
June  for  another  and  more  thoron<i]i  voyage  of  discovery.  During  his  former 
voyage  he  lived  among  the  Eslcimos,  aesiuired  their  language,  and  satisfied  him- 
self tliat  he  can  live  with  these  people  in  safety  and  health.  He  is  prepared  as  no 
other  c-xplorer  has  been  before  him  for  making  a  thorough  investigation  of  the 
important  jioition  of  Arctic  land  and  water  to  which  he  proposes  to  devote 
himself. 

Tliis  region  still  holds  an  important  ])()rtion  of  the  secret  of  the  ill-fated 
Fraiildin  I'xpcdition,  wliieli  our  countryman  confidently  expects  to  lay  bare.  It 
is.  moreover,  of  value  to  our  wlialing  and  sealing  interests,  and  the  reports  on  its 
naturid  history  will  possess  scientific  value.  These  considerations,  which  have  led 
him  to  devote  the  best  years  of  his  life  to  Arctic  research,  induce  also  those  whose 
names  are  appended  to  this  notice  to  ask  their  fellow-citizens  to  join  them  in  ])ro- 
euring  for  the  brave  exi)lorer  such  an  outfit  as  shall  set  him  fairly  on  his  way,  ami 
enable  him  to  perform  thoroughly  the  task  which  he  has  set  for  himself.  Our 
countrymen  have  won  an  honorable  fame  by  their  courage  and  endurance  in  Arc- 
tic research.  It  is,  therefore,  not  fit  that  one  who  h;!s  already  sliown  such  i)erse- 
verance,  fortitude,  and  ingenuity  in  his  lu-evious  voyage  as  Captain  Hall  has  done, 
shall  be  i)crmitted  to  leave  our  shores  lacking  anything  which  can  further  his 
laudable  object.  The  i)roposed  exploration  has  enlisted  the  sympathies  of  our 
most  pioininent  scientilie  men,  especially  geographers,  as  well  as  enterprising 
whaling  fnins.  It  sliould  be  iniderstood  that  Ca]>tain  Hall  takes  with  him  no 
sailing  vessel,  but  on  ai  riving  at  the  scene  of  his  labors  will  leave  the  ship  which 
bears  him  there,  nud  trust  to  the  hospitality  of  the  Eskimos. 


^^-'•"'ie--^      0-i!H-.«~-s<  £r-g,t^    /We^ 


,<^<x 


From  a  photograph. 


Utlwtypc  Printing  Co.,  Jlittu. 


Encourufjemcntn.  4 1 

He  believes  that  the  acquisition  of  tlie  lo;,',  ciiart,  and  scicntilir  <lu.iiiii.iits 
of  the  Franklin  Expedition,  which  he  hopes  to  find,  will  U-  of  '^vv;\\  imiiortance; 
that  probably  the  movst  extensive  series  of  observations  on  terrestrial  nia;:iiet ism 
had  been  made  by  the  expedition  before  they  al)andone(l  ilieir  sliips.  lie  <-\pr<-ts 
to  return  in  about  three  years. 

In  order  to  complete  the  outtit,  a  sum  of  about  s;*),()()()  is  yet  ie»|uii<d,  and 
while  it  is  Captain  IJairs  intention  to  sail  at  any  rate,  whether  tlioi-on^^hiy  titled 
or  not,  it  is  hoped  that  our  public-spirited  citizens  will  not  pcnnil  this  intrrjiid 
explorer  to  depart  from  our  city  lacking  anything  which  can  help  to  prfsti  \c  his 
life  or  enable  him  to  perfect  his  explorations  in  the  inhos]»itable  regions  to  wliidi 
he  is  bound. 

Subscriptions  in  money,  or  donations  in  kind  of  sn])i>lies,  or  ;,^on(ls  tui  the 
expedition, may  be  handed  to  any  of  the  undersigned,  who  will  see  that  tin  y  arc 
properly  applied  in  aid  of  this  i^raise  worthy  enterpiise. 

J.  CAKSO^'  JJKKVOOKT. 

JAMES  W.  BEEKMAN. 

A.  W.  BURR. 

HENRY  GRINNKLL. 

E.  &  G.  W.  BLLXT. 

JOHN  AUSTIN  stev]-:ns. 

The  press  of  the  city  of  New  York  in  strong  language  indorsed 
this  appeal,  and  public  sentiment  began  to  show  itself,  more  cordially 
and  favorably.  Under  the  influence  of  the  names  cited,  and  of  those 
of  other  citizens  of  high  standing,  such  as  C}'rus  \\.  Field,  Peter 
Cooper,  Augustus  Ward,  Prof.  R.  S.  Newt(m,  and  Marshall  LelVcrts, 
some  liberal  collections  of  moneys  were  secured,  sullicicnt  to  coin- 
plete  a  moderate  outfit. 

The  U.  S.  Coast  Survey  Office  contributed  the  loan  of  a  sextant 
and  a  dip  circle.  The  nautical  and  mathematical  instrument  makers, 
Messrs.  Negus,  Stackpole  &  Brother,  Bliss  &  Co.,  ^ra-lial.ne,  I-:-.ir('rt 
&  Son,  and  Pike  &  Son,  very  cordially  supplemented  the  list  by  <loiia- 
tions;  while  other  merchants  as  readily  resjxmded,  accompaiivm-  tlinr 


42  A  Free  Passage  Offered. 

contributions  with  pleasant  words,  and  tendering  to  Hall  the  oppor- 
tuuitv  of  his  own  selection  from  their  stock. 

Mr.  E.  H.  Chapell,  of  New  London,  already  quoted  as  Hall's  firm 
friend,  now  cordially  offered  to  him  a  free  jDassage  in  his  whaling  brig 
Monticello,  which  expected  to  sail  for  Hudson's  Bay  about  the  15th  of 
June.  In  18(i0,  Mr.  Chapell  was  in  the  employ  of  Messrs.  Williams  & 
Haven,  when  that  firm  so  generously  assisted  Hall  by  their  gift  of  a 
free  passage  in  the  George  Henry.  He  was  now  a  shipping  merchant 
on  liis  own  account.  In  forwarding  his  off'er  to  Hall,  he  wrote,  "I  shall 
nialce  no  charge  or  receive  any  compensation  from  you  for  the  passage 
of  >ourself  and  Eskimo  friends  in  the  Monticello,  appreciating  your 
zeal  in  a  good  cause,  and  being  much  interested  personally  in  all  that 
l)ertains  to  the  icy  regions."  In  this  connection  it  is  proper  to  state 
also,  from  personal  testimony  of  the  masters  of  the  whalers  belonging 
to  tliese  New  London  firms,  that  their  contributions  were  by  no  means 
limited  to  the  matter  of  free  passage.  Throughout  both  of  Hall's  expe- 
ditions these  vessels,  which  had  their  fishing  stations  and  also  win- 
tered near  him,  frequently  supplied  his  necessities,  in  accordance  with 
the  expressed  or  well-known  wishes  of  their  employers.  They  also 
took  out,  gratuitously,  supplies  sent  by  Mr.  Grinnell  and  others. 

Hall  was  now  ready  to  sail.  On  the  30tli  of  June,  accompanied 
b}'  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too,  he  arrived  at  New  London,  and  was 
cordially  received  by  its  citizens,  the  proprietor  of  its  chief  hotel,  with 
others,  extending  him  full  hospitalities.  Embarking  on  the  Monticello 
on  tlie  folk* wing  day,  the  party  were  watched  by  hundreds  of  people 
as  the  shij)  went  down  the  harbor,  and  were  cheered  by  the  United 
Stites  giinb<»;ils,  Jiisco  and    Marblchcad,  wli(»se   riggings  were   manned 


The  Farewell  at  New  London.  43 

and  flags  flipped.  The  Monticello,  under  tlie  foiuiiiaiHl  of  ("aju.  10. 
A.  Chapel,  of  Hudson,  N.  Y.,  was  a  staundi  wlialer  of  ;;.')(;  tons  r('<ris- 
ter,  engaged  in  the  wlialing  business  from  tlie  date  of  her  ]h\w^ 
launched,  1842;  she  carried  four  large  boats,  besides  her  spare-boats 
and  Hall's  Expedition  whale-boat.  She  was  accompanied  Ijy  tlie 
Tender,  Helen  F.,  a  craft  of  about  100  tons,  carrying  two  boats. 

Those  who  bade  Hall  farewell  at  this  hour  of  his  second  dei)arture 
from  home  for  the  execution  of  his  long-cherished  purposes,  wlieii  they 
left  him  on  their  return  to  the  harbor,  made  this  record,  "He  is  full 
of  hope,  never  desponding;  has  firm  trust  in  Him  who  doeth  all  things 
well,  and  is  marked  for  his  steady  perseverance  and  integrity  ;  prompt, 
truthful,  and  of  undoubted  reliability,  he  readily  makes  friends  b\  liis 
whole-souledness,  and  those  who  meet  him  once  are  happy  to  renew 
the  acquaintance." 

Hall's  own  feelings  are  tersely  expressed  in  a  letter  written  on 
board  the  Monticello,  July  13,  when  nearing  the  port  of  St.  John's. 
He  wrote : 

I  have  now  a  work  before  me  that  might  make  some  sliuddor  to  niidt  rtakc. 
It  is  a  great  undertaking  for  one  man,  I  will  confess ;  but,  having  once  jmt  myself 
in  the  course,  I  must  and  will  persevere.  I  hope  by  the  aid  of  Ileaveu  to  siiicci'd, 
and  at  the  end  of  three  years  I  shall  return  to  my  friends,  who  may  rejoice  tliat 
they  withheld  not  in  the  time  of  my  great  need.  During  the  passage  to  this  port 
I  have  felt  little  hke  work,  for  I  may  say  it  has  been  the  first  resting  s])ell  I  have 
had  for  years. 

His  correspondence  was  closed  by  the  coiTCctions  of  the  last 
proof-sheets  of  his  volume  on  the  researches  of  18G0-'62,  the  }iretaee 
to  which  was  dated  on  board  the  Monticello.  His  acknowledgments 
were  again  gratefully  tendered  to  Messrs.  Harper,  who  at  the  time 
when    he  had  supposed  himself  ready   to  return  to    the   N'oitli,   liad 


44  Donations  Achiowledged. 

consented  to  the  suspension  of  the  work,  although  advance  payments 
had  been  made  *  Under  the  advice  of  a  firm  friend,  Mr.  C.  Nordhoff, 
then  one  of  the  editors  of  the  New  York  Evening  Post,  Rev.  O.  H. 
Dutton  liad  assisted  in  its  completion. 

*  A  list  of  the  donations  received  in  New  York  and  Ncav  London  was  also  sent  from  tlic 
Monticello  to  the  New  York  press,  as  follows  : 

iJonaiions  from  ISi-u^  York. — Peter  Cooper,  condensed  provisions;  G.  C.  Baker,  nantical  in- 
struments ;  11.  S.  Eacket  &  Son,  transportation  of  powder  free  to  New  London  on  board  tlio 
schooner  Dr.  Franklin,  S.  J.  Geer,  master;  H.  Dalley,  pain  extractors;  R.  Keith  &  Co.,  concen- 
trated medicines;  Miles  &  Ilolman,  hominy,  samp,  split  pease,  farina,  «fcc. ;  Knox,  hats;  D.  C. 
Morthead,  ^l.  D.,  magnetic  i>lasters;  W.  S.  Moldrum,  sugar;  G.  F.  Neshit,  binding  journal  and 
books  for  the  Arctic  Exjjeditiou;  Reynolds,  Pratt  &,  Co.,  chamois  skins,  «.tc. ;  T.  F.  Brett,  seine, 
twine,  &c. ;  Letoumenr  &  Co.,  pure  liquors;  Philip  Dater  &  Co.,  groceries;  Colgate  &  Co., 
soap;  B.  S.  Osbom,  sundries;  G.  P.  Philes  &  Co.,  "Coat's  Geography  of  Hudson's  Baj-,"  a  rare 
aud  valuable  work ;  Adams  Express  Company,  kindness  of  John  Hoey,  who  sent  everything 
free  from  New  York  to  New  London;  Guiscppe  Tagliabue,  barometer  and  thermometer  maker; 
The  Hazard  Powder  Comjiany ;  M.  P.  Brown,  importer  of  beads;  W.  C.  Marshall,  condensed 
meats;  Prof.  R.  S.  Newton,  M.  D.,  medical  stores  and  surgical  instruments;  H.  W.  Hunter,  night 
compasses,  &c. ;  Thomas  H.  Bate  &  Co.,  fish-hooks;  The  New  York  Lead  Company,  Thomas  Otis 
Le  Roy  Lead  Company,  and  McCullough  Lead  Company,  shot  aud  balls ;  American  Desiccating 
Company;  D.  Eggert  &  Son,  chronometer  manufacturers;  Benjamin  Pike  &  Son,  astronomical 
iustrnmeiit  makers;  The  American  Bank  Note  Comiiany,  jounial  books  of  l)auk-note  paper  and 
anti-freezing  ink;  Samuel  L.  Mitchell,  desiccated  vegetables;  George  C.  Hubbell  &.  Co.,  golden 
bitters;  F.  L.  Kneelantl,  Dupont's  gunpowder;  Lamson  &  Goodnow,  cutlery;  J.  H.  Brower, 
Borden  meat-biscuit;  Stackpole  &  Brother,  nautical  instriuuents ;  Barton,  Alexander  &  Waller, 
percussion  caps,  &c. ;  Annin  &  Co.,  flags;  McKesson  &  Robbins,  drugs  and  medicines;  Tomes  &■ 
Sous  &  Melvain,  importers  of  guns;  Theodore  Polhemus,  jr.,  &  Co.,  dealers  in  cotton  sail  duck; 
John  Bliss  &  Co.,  manufacturers  and  dealers  in  nautical  instruments;  J.  &  J.  C.  Couroy,  dealers 
in  nets;  A.  A.  Low  &  Brothers,  importers  of  tea;  James  M.  Dietz,  lamp  manufacturers ;  Thomas 
L.  Negus  &  Co.,  chronometer  and  nautical  instruments;  Goodyear's  India  Rubber  Company, 
India-rubber  goods;  O.  B.  Gray,  India-rubber  goods;  E.  &  G.  W.  Blunt,  nautical  instruments, 
charts,  &c. ;  Conolly  &  Co.,  wlndesale  tobacco  dealers;  Augustus  H.  Ward,  an  order  on  Tiffany 
iSc  Co.  for  a  first-class  pocket  chronometer;  telegraph,  express,  steainboat,  and  railroad  companies 
for  the  freedom  of  their  lines. 

DonatioHH  from  Xoc  London. — F.  L.  Allen,  drugs,  &c. ;  D.  B.  Hempstead,  fancy  articles  and 
jewelry;  Shcppard  &  Harris,  clothing;  Harris,  Williams  A:.  Co.,  hardware;  Smith  &  Grace,  tin- 
ware; AiisDU  Cliacc,  gun-materials;  N.  D.  Smith,  stationery;  H.  P.  Freeman,  projuietor  of  the 
Metropolitan  Hotel,  hospitalities. 


HAPTER 


FROM  ST.  JOHN'S,  NEWFOUNDLAND,  TO  WINTER  QUAR- 
TERS ON  THE  WELCOME. 

JULY  18  TO  OCTOBER  1,  1864. 


4r. 


CHAPTEH   Til. 


Arrival  at  St.  John's,  Newfoundland— Departure  for  Hudson's  IUy— Passage  through 
THE  Straits — Exciting  capture  of  two  Polar  bears— The  Monticeli.o  lands  Ham. 
at  Depot  Island,  and  cruises  for  whales — A  white  man  hired  from  the  whalers — 
The  Helen  F.  takes  Hall's  party  toward  the  Wager  River  ;  mistakes  the  lati- 
tude, LANDING  them  FORTY  MILES  SOUTH — TENTS  SET  UP  AND  CACHE  MADE — FiRST 
MEETING    WITH    THE     InNUITS    FROM    REPULSE    BaY — INQUIRIES    MADE    OF    THEM    AS    TO 

Franklin's  Expedition — Change  op  the  season — Removal  of  tupiks — The  Innuits 

COLLECT  their  FUR  DRESSES — THEIR  FREQUENT  VISITS  TO  HaLL'S  TUPIK — SnOW-DRIFTS — 

Wolf-tracks — Snow-pa rtridges — Construction  of  an  igloo — Winter  quarters. 

Captain  Chapel  expected  to  reach  St.  John's  on  the  13th,  but 
heavy  fogs  and  a  strong  north  by  east  wind,  with  rain  following,  com- 
pelled the  ship  to  lie  off  the  mouth  of  the  harbor  for  several  days ; 
further  delay  being  occasioned  by  the  difficulty  experienced  in  sliliipiu^- 
the  complement  of  the  crew.  When  the  captain  went  nshore  for  this 
purpose, Hall  accompanied  him,  and  during  his  stay  until  the  istli  >v;is 
the  recipient  of  many  tokens  of  kindness  from  the  citizens,  auKHii;' 
whom  were  friends  of  his  first  expedition.  His  letters  to  ]\Ir.  IJrcMM.rt, 
Mr.  Grinnell,  and  others  speak  with  thankfulness  of  these  attentions, 
and  especially  of  those  shown  by  U.  S.  Consul  Leach,  in  securing  for 
him  further  necessary   additions    to   his   outfit.      They  exhibit  some 


48 


Departure  from  St.  John\s,  Newfoundland. 


[July,  1S04. 


natural  restlessness  under  the  unexpected  delay  of  sailing.  With  the 
expectation  of  dating  his  next  letters  from  Hudson's  Bay,  he  succeeded 
in  leavina-  St.  John's  on  the  18th  of  the  month. 


CO 


Icebergs  were  first  met  in  lat.  50°  48'.  On  the  28tli,  at  9  a.  m., 
Cape  Chidley  and  Button  Islands  were  in  sight,  and  later  in  the  day 
lliulsi Ill's  Straits  were  entered.     The  Monticello  shaped  her  course  for 


August,  1S64.1  Passage  through  Hudson's  Straits.  49 

Resolution  Island,  known  by  the  Eskimos  as  '^Todjon"  Much  float- 
ing ice  was  passed  through.  Hall  improved  the  delay  in  the  ship's 
course  by  taking  the  bearings  of  the  prominent  headlands  along  the 
shores  of  the  old  ^^Mcta  Incognita"  of  Queen  Ehzabeth.  Across  the 
strait  through  which  they  were  sailing  lay  to  the  north  his  discov- 
eries of  the  Frobisher  relics  in  1862. 

From  the  first  of  August  to  the  20th,  the  ship  and  her  tender  passed 
through  the  changing  experiences  of  Arctic  navigation.  Iler  course 
was  kept  within  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  of  the  land.  The  first  days  of 
the  month  were  calm,  offering  opportunities  for  securing  game  on  the 
ice-floes  which  studded  the  strait.  Hall  and  Eskimo  Joe  shot  a  num- 
ber of  oJq)as,  the  white  web-footed  sea-fowl  so  often  found  clustering 
on  Arctic  clifi's.  The  petuJarhs,  dove-kies,  proved  too  shy.  Seals  were 
seen  at  a  distance. 

Grinnell  Glacier — first  seen  and  named  on  Hall's  visit  of  August 
21,  1860 — mirrored  itself  in  the  spaces  of  open  water.  It  faded  from 
sight  on  the  bright  morning  of  the  7th.  The  long  and  uniform  range 
of  white  mountains  on  the  north,  the  Terra  Nievia  of  the  old  naviga- 
tors, arrested  the  attention  of  all  on  board  the  Monticello. 

The  ship's  log  of  each  day,  as  would  be  expected,  showed  much 
the  same  record.  For  a  few  hours  she  worked  onward  under  some- 
thing of  a  favorable  breeze  ;  or  else  it  was  tack,  tack,  one  hour  on 
one  course  and  the  next  upon  the  other,  the  wind  dead  ahead.  At 
times  she  bored  her  way  through  the  pack  ice,  or  she  met  an  impassa- 
ble barrier  athwart  her  course,  and  then  made  fast  to  an  iceberg  or 
floe,  tying  up  thus  usually  at  night.  While  very  slowly  nearing  an 
ice  island  on  the  evening  of  the  1st,  her  iron-plated  bows  had  struck 

S.  Ex.  27 4 


50  Chase  of  two  Polars.  iAngi.»»,  i864. 

so  heavily  on  a  hummock  that  her  crew  were  in  waiting  to  jump  from 
her.  On  the  16th,  a  gale  springing  up  from  the  north  and  veering  to 
the  northwest,  forced  the  Monticello  under  close  reef,  splitting  the 
topsail,  the  sea  sweeping  the  decks. 

During  the  intervals  of  fair  weather  the  American  whalers  had 
the  pleasure  of  exchanging  courteous  visits  with  three  of  the  ships  be- 
longing to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company — the  Prince  of  Wales,  with 
seventy-five  passengers  on  board,  the  Prince  Arthur,  and  the  Ocean 
Nymph.  These  vessels  had  left  Stromness,  in  the  Orkneys,  on  the  2d 
of  July.  One  of  them  had  been  within  the  straits  six  days.  They 
had  all  been  sighted  at  a  short  distance  to  the  westward  the  evening 
before  the  visits,  the  opportunity  for  which  was  occasioned  by  the 
dead  calm  which  had  detained  them. 

Hall's  voyage  was  not  long  without  the  excitement  incident  to  the 
sight  and  chase  of  the  bear  and  the  walrus.  Walruses  were  seen  at 
some  distance  basking,  as  is  their  custom,  on  the  ice.  As  the  Monti- 
cello  passed  near,  they  raised  their  ferocious  heads  to  gaze  a  little  while 
at  the  ship,  and  then  rolled  over  into  the  sea. 

The  chase  of  several  Polars  was  of  more  interest.  One  seen  by 
the  crew  of  the  Helen  F.,  though  at  first  close  by,  made  a  most  respect- 
ful distance  before  the  guns  could  be  loaded ;  and,  although  swift 
chase  was  given  by  the  dingy,  bruin  gained  a  long  piece  of  ice  and 
bounded  off  upon  it  beyond  all  possibility  of  capture,  leaving  on  the 
ice,  parts  of  the  seal  on  which  he  had  been  breakfasting.  The  Mon- 
ticello was  more  fortunate,  securing  two  large  Polars  on  the  same  day. 
Hall's  journal  of  August  3  says  that  at  5  a.  m.  he  was  aroused  from 
sweet  slumbers  by  the  voice  of  Chester,  who  had  come  down  from  his 


Angust,  1S64.I  A  Bettv  Capturcd.  51 

morning-  watcli  "thundering  in  the  companion  way,  'White  IJear! 
White  Bear!'"  In  a  few  moments  the  glass  showed  from  tlie  deck  a 
huge  Polar;  and  the  mate,  with  Hall  and  Ebierbing,  started  with  a 
stalwart  crew,  who  were  quickly  over  the  ship's  side.  Chester  steered. 
Hall  and  Ebierbing,  with  loaded  rifles  (the  gifts  of  Mr.  Chapell,  of  New 
London),  were  in  the  boat,  and  five  pairs  of  oars  "  pulled  lustily  as  foi- 
dear  life."  Bruin  was  nearly  a  mile  off,  but  though  every  effort  was 
made  to  keep  to  the  leeward,  he  showed  that  he  scented  his  pursuers 
when  they  had  passed  over  but  a  fourth  of  that  distance,  by  his  shuf- 
fling to  and  fro  on  the  ice  and  by  throwing  up  his  head,  shaking  it  at 
them,  roaring  furiously,  and  showing  his  tusks;  with  intervals  of  quiet 
gaze  at  the  boat.  At  the  outset,  Eberbing  pronounced  the  animal  to 
be  one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind,  and  a  male;  calling  it  an  Anjujua 
Commenting  in  his  journal  on  the  acuteness  of  the  Innuits  in  discrim- 
inating the  signs  and  habits  of  the  animals  of  their  country,  Hall 
notes  Ebierbing's  quickness  in  deciding  the  sex  and  character  of  this 
bear  from  its  size  and  its  yellowish-white  color.  He  showed  further 
tact  by  frequent  lusty  shoutings,  in  order  to  arrest  the  progress  of 
Ninoo  after  he  had  dropped  himself  stern  foremost  into  the  water,  and 
had  commenced  swimming  at  the  rate  of  full  six  knots  an  hour.  Ninoo 
by  his  delay  in  turning  around  nearly  his  whole  huge  body  gave  his 
pursuers  much  advantage.  At  the  distance  of  50  yards,  on  Ebier- 
bing's making  the  first  shot  at  his  head,  which  alone  was  above  water. 
Polar  instantly  dropped,  and  his  huge  carcass  floated  lifeless.  Tlie 
crew,  making  it  fast,  towed  it  back  to  the  Monticello  within  thirty 
minutes  from  the  time  they  had  set  out  on  the  chase,  and  in  a  few 
moments  more,   with  pulleys  and  hemp,   landed  him  safe  on    deck. 


52 


FoJar  No.   1 


(August,  1864. 


POLAR   NO.   1. 

Hall  proceeded  to  sketch  the  animal  and  to  note  his  measure- 
ments, the  chief  of  which  were  : 

Weight,  estimated  by  Chapel,  Chester,  and  Hall 1,100  lbs. 

Length  from  snont  to  tail 8  ft. 

Lciijitli  from  snout  to  shoulder  joint 3  ft. 

Length  from  heel  of  hind  leg  to  top  of  rumi) 3  ft.  5  in. 

Circumference  of  the  head  before  the  eyes 3  ft. 

Circumference  of  the  neck 3  ft.  8  in. 

( "ircumferencie  of  the  middle 7  ft.  4  in. 

Circumference  of  the  fore  leg  below  the  knee  and  of  the  fore  paw,  each .  li  ft.  3  in. 

Length  of  X\nt  tail 5i  in. 

Lengtli  of  front  teeth 7  in. 

Length  of  iiiohus 4  in. 

[liaroiitz,  ill  1 .")!)(;,  killed  two  hears  on  Cherie  or  Beare  Island,  near 


Aiisiiivt,  1SG4.J  A  Second  Bear  Captured.  .53 

Spitzbergen,  the  skin  of  one  of  whicli  measured  12  feet,  and  of  the 
other  13  feet] 

Ebierbing  scarcely  gave  himself  time  to  finisli  wltli  the  assistance 
of  two  of  the  crew,  the  work  of  skinning  and  cutting  u})  this  animal, 
before  he  was  at  the  ship's  side,  glass  in  hand,  on  the  sharp  lookout  for 
a  second.  At  2.30  p.  m.  he  espied  one  fast  asleep  about  two  miles  dis- 
tant, and  Captain  Chapel  consented  to  the  delay  of  lufhng  and  again 
sending  out  a  crew,  as  he  found  the  ice  closely  and  heavily  packed  in 
the  ship's  way.  After  a  pull  of  two  miles  the  same  party  approaclied 
their  new  game — this  time  within  thirty  yards — and  Ebierbing  was 
again  the  first  to  fire.  Ninoo  No.  2,  however,  took  to  his  heels  and 
was  soon  out  of  sight  beyond  the  hummocks,  and,  as  the  floe  was  quite 
large,  it  was  scarcely  to  be  exjjected  he  would  be  again  seen.  But  the 
crew,  by  sharp  pulling,  reached  an  open- water  space  on  the  opposite  side, 
and,  on  inspecting  closely  every  piece  of  ice,  at  last  espied  Ninoo  stand- 
ing erect  facing  them,  pawing  the  snow,  and  fiercely  roaring.  Ebierbing 
again  fired  and  again  the  animal  bounded  into  the  water.  Heading  him 
ofi",  and  following  closely  through  the  floes,  the  marksman  fired  ten  more 
shots,  but  still  without  fatal  eftect.  At  times  springing  upon  the  loose 
pieces  of  ice,  and  again  spurning  these  with  his  feet  as  he  plunged  into 
the  deep,  the  animal  at  last  rested  on  his  haunches  on  a  hununock,  his 
whole  frame  quivering  from  the  eff'ects  of  the  shots.  He  struggled  hard 
with  death,  at  one  moment  sitting  up,  with  head  erect  and  quiet,  and  the 
next  striking  it  in  the  most  terrific  manner  first  with  one  paw  and  then 
with  the  other:  and  roaring  till,  as  Hall  says,  "  the  very  ice  mountains 
seemed  to  quake."  But  Ebierbing,  by  a  well-directed  shot  at  the  brain, 
ended  this  second  piteous  scene,  and,  advancing  cautiously  and  touch- 
ing the  carcass  with  his  ramrod,  pronounced  the  bear  dead,  though 


54  Bear-Meat  and  Bear-Oil.  [August,  is64. 

no  sooner  had  he  said  it  than  Ninoo  gave  one  more  convulsive  leap. 
He  then  fell  lifeless. 

The  number  of  shots  fired  is  not  beyond  what  is  usually  found 
necessary.  Hall,  recaUing  the  experiences  of  his  first  voyage,  says  he 
had  sometimes  thought  that  the  bear  exemplifies  the  old  saying  of  the 
cat's  nine  lives,  for  ball  after  ball  is  often  put  through  the  head,  and  the 
bear  drops  down  as  often  seemingly  lifeless,  yet  in  a  few  moments  off 
again  he  trots. 

Polar  No.  1  was  found  to  be  immensely  loaded  with  fat,  "  covered 
with  a  complete  blanket  of  it,  five  inclies  thick  on  the  rump ;  the  en- 
trails entirely  encased  with  fat."  The  paunch  was  empty.  This  Ebier- 
bing  explained  by  saying,  ''WhenMwoo  get  fat  he  no  eat  any  more  for 
two  or  three  months ;  "  an  empty  paunch  is,  therefore,  no  sign  that  he 
is  hungry.  The  skin,  the  fat,  and  the  meat  were  saved.  The  whole  of 
the  inwards,  except  the  fat  covering,  was  thrown  into  the  sea  The 
Innuits  never  eat  anything  from  the  inside  of  the  bear.  Steaks  of 
juicy,  red  meat  were  welcomed  by  the  crew,  and  Hall  says  better  beef 
could  not  be  had  in  the  States.  These  last  remarks  accord  with  what 
Scoresby,  in  his  Account  of  the  Arctic  Regions,  says,  viz,  that  he  once 
treated  his  surgeon  to  a  dinner  of  bear's  ham,  and  he  knew  not  for  a 
month  afterward  but  that  it  was  beefsteak.  The  liver  is  hurtful,  while 
the  liver  and  flesh  of  the  seal,  on  which  the  bear  chiefly  feeds,  are 
nourishing  and  palatable.  Sailors  who  have  inadvertently  eaten  the 
liver  of  the  bear  have  sickened ;  some  have  actually  died.  These  ill 
effects  have  not,  however,  been  always  the  experience  of  Arctic  sailors. 

The  amount  of  oil  obtained  from  the  two  bears  was  over  seventy 
gallons  ;  all  the  blubber  was  cut  up  to  make  it.  Usually  the  Eskimo 
woiiicii  (1(»  this  part  of  the  work,  but  Too-koo-li-too  had  never  practiced 


OUTWARD    VOYAGE   FROM     ST.  . 
HOMEWARD   VOYAGE 


7  5° 


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LAND    TO    WHALE    POINT.     1864. 
^  TO   ST.  JOHNS*  1869. 


Augnst,  1864.]  CouTse  of  the  Ship.  55 

it.  The  oil  Wcas  sweet  and  pellucid.  By  the  light  Irom  some  of  it, 
Hall  wrote  his  next  journal  entries.  In  the  paunch  of  the  second  bear 
about  six  gallons  of  seal-oil  had  been  found. 

From  the  entrance  of  the  straits  the  course  of  the  jMonticello  hud 
been  run  between  60°  59'  N.  and  63°  47'  N.  The  last-named  latitude, 
made  August  10,  was  found  to  be  considerably  north  of  where  the  ship's 
dead-reckoning  placed  her ;  she  had  been  swept  out  by  the  current. 
From  the  7th  to  the  20th  the  log  gives  the  longitude  reckonings,  G9°, 
70°  40',  72°  33',  75°  08',  84°  27',  85°  30',  88°  40',  90°  20',  89°  40' ; 
on  the  20th,  89°  56'  W.     Compass  variation,  41°  W. 

On  the  12th,  under  favor  of  a  south-southeast  wind  and  a  strong 
current,  the  ship  had  made  the  most  rapid  advance  of  any  part  of  her 
course ;  Nottingham  and  Salisbury  Islands,  which  had  been  on  her 
starboard  all  day,  being  suddenly  swept  by  and  left  far  in  the  distance. 
It  was  now  learned  that  the  passage  of  the  straits  had  been  much  more 
successfully  accomplished  by  one  of  the  ships  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  the  Prince  of  Wales,  which,  according  to  her  log,  had  made 
it  in  less  than  six  days. 

Eight  days  after,  the  Monticello,  having  completed  her  run  across 
the  bay,  anchored  at  Depot  Island,  in  lat.  63°  47'  N.,  long.  89°  51'  W. 
The  Eskimo  name  of  this  island  is  Pik-e-u-lar ;  its  English  name  had 
been  given  to  it  by  Captain  E.  A.  Chapel  on  a  former  voyage. 

Hall  was  much  disappointed  that  the  vessel  did  not  proceed 
directly  to  Marble  Island,  her  original  destination.  He  liad  liopes  of 
doing  some  good  work  there  by  carefully  determining  the  geograph- 
ical position  of  the  island,  and  had  a  second  object  in  view.  Remem- 
bering the  fate  of  the  expedition  under  Knight  and   Barlow,  sent  out 


56  Expedition  of  Knight  and  Barlow.  lAngnst,  is64. 

in  1719,  some  of  the  wrecks  of  whose  vessels  were  found  fifty  years 
afterwards  upon  this  island,  he  wished  to  explore  it  for  relics  of  that 
expedition*  which  might  yet  possibly  be  found.  In  Hearne's  Travels 
he  had  seen  the  statement  that  the  remains  of  the  houses  built  by  this 
party,  as  also  the  hulls  of  the  ship  and  sloop  were  visible  for  many 
years  below  the  waters. 

He  was  at  first  landed  with  Ebierbing  and  To-koo-li-too  on  Depot 
Island.  Mate  Chester,  who  accompanied  them,  estimated  the  whole 
weight  of  his  boat  and  outfit  at  only  1,400  pounds.  The  boat,  built 
by  Rodgers  of  New  London,  was  but  28  feet  in  length,  with  5  feet  10 
inches  beam,  and  26  inches  depth.  The  mate  and  crew  returned  on 
board  the  Monticello,  and  when,  soon  afterward,  she  left  the  harbor  on 
her  first  cruise  for  whales,  the  party  on  the  island  began  their  five 
years'  Arctic  residence.  A  tent  was  erected  on  the  western  side,  and 
some  observations  were  made  for  determining  the  position  and  for 
marking  out  the  adjacent  coast  line.  On  the  22d,  the  first  game 
secured,  footed  up  for  the  day  nine  petularks  and  one  goose. 

During  the  week  which  followed,  several  vessels,  and  among  them 
the  Tender,  Helen  F.,  were  sighted,  apparently  working  their  wa}^  up 
to  Rowe's  Welcome  ;  and  although  the  fog  at  one  time  hid  them  from 
view,  Hall  was  only  the  more  delighted  to  find  on  the  23d  the  brig 

*  Sickness  and  famine  occasioned  such  havoc  among  the  English  that  by  the  setting  in  of 
the  second  winter  their  number  was  reduced  to  t^ycnty ;  and  on  tlic  Eslvinios  visiting  Marble 
Island  again,  in  the  summer  of  1721,  they  found  five  of  the  English  only  alive,  and  those  in  such 
distress  for  provisions  that  tliey  eagerly  eat  the  seal's  Jlesh  aud  whale's  blubbej-  quite  raw  as  they 
purcliased  it  from  the  natives.  This  disordered  them  so  much  that  tliree  of  them  died  in  a  few 
days;  and  the  other  two,  though  very  weak,  made  a  shift  to  bury  them.  These  two  survived 
many  days  after  the  rest,  and  frequently  went  to  the  top  of  an  adjacent  rock  and  earnestly  looked 
to  ibe  stjuth  and  east  as  if  in  expectation  of  some  vessels  coming  to  their  relief.  After  continuing 
there  a  considerable  lime,  and  nothing  appearing  in  sight,  they  sat  down  close  together  and 
•wept  bitterly.  At  length  one  of  the  two  died,  and  the  other's  strength  was  so  far  exhausted  that 
he  fell  down  and  died  also  tchilc  allemjjtiiifj  to  dig  a  f/rave  for  his  companion. — (Journey  from  Prince 
of  Wales'  Fort,  in  Hudson's  Hay,  to  the  Northern  Ocean,  17n7-177'2,  by  8auin<i  Ilcariir.  lutrod., 
\i.  xxxi.) 


AnguNt,  1864.]  A    WJiUc  Mail  liked.  t)l 

Isabel  and  the  bark  Concordia,  and  on  the  25th  the  Helen  F.,  snugly 
anchored  west  of  the  island.  The  captains  of  these  vessels  went 
ashore  and  expressed  their  kindly  interest  in  Hall's  purposes,  offerinrr 
him  also  comfortable  accommodations  on  their  ships  if  he  slioiild  com- 
plete his  work  before  the  expiration  of  their  cruises.  Capt.  li.  \. 
Chapel,  of  the  Tender,  spent  much  of  the  day  on  Hall's  "flafr-staff  hill," 
from  which  he  had  sighted  the  ships  while  making  liis  observations. 

He  now  secured  his  first  assistant.  Charles  Rudolph,  a  German, 
one  of  the  crew  of  the  Isabel,  having  learned  Hall's  wish  to  employ 
a  white  man  as  a  companion  on  the  expedition,  volunteered  to  go 
with  him  and  went  ashore  for  an  interview,  bearing  high  recommenda- 
tions from  his  officers.  He  had  spent  one  previous  winter  among  the 
Innuits.  He  was  very  closely  questioned  in  regard  to  what  he  knew 
of  Innuit  life  and  what  trials  he  supposed  he  would  have  if  he  went  on 
this  intended  journey  of  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  years,  and  his 
replies  were  so  satisfactory  that,  taking  them  in  connection  with  the 
recommendation  of  his  officers  (Mr.  Gardner,  the  second  mate,  being 
an  old  acquaintance),  Hall  had  no  hesitation  in  accepting  the  proposal. 
The  experience  of  his  First  Expedition  had  taught  him  that  "the  man 
from  the  land  of  civilization  who  should  accompany  him,  must  be  one 
whom  he  well  knew,  and  one  that  would  face  disappointments,  depriva- 
tions of  food  without  a  murmur,  endure  with  stout  heart  storms,  cold, 
and  hard  labor  without  flinching,  and  be  truthfully  obedient  and  trust- 
worthy every  way."  Before  setting  out,  he  had  refused  many  appli- 
cations from  persons  in  the  United  States  and  Canada,  under  the  feel- 
ing that  unless  he  knew  them  intimately  he  might  regret  having  taken 
a  companion  when  it  would  be  too  late  for  a  remedy.  It  may  Ix' 
remarked  in  passing  that  the  letters  containing  such  applications  found 


58  Whalers  at  the  Island.  lAugast,  i864. 

among  Hall's  papers  and  dating  within  tlie  years  1860-62,  as  well  as 
the  future  history  of  other  like  cases,  justify  the  precaution  he  took. 

Before  taking  Rudolph  into  his  service  he  told  him,  in  Mr.  Gardner's 
presence,  the  very  darkest  and  hardest  side  of  the  story  as  to  the  life 
he  must  lead  if  he  went  to  King  William's  Land,  asking  him  also  if  he 
were  aware  that  perhaps  they  would  starve,  or  be  killed  by  the 
Innuits.  But  Rudolph  answered  that  he  could  endure  what  any  one 
else  could,  and  could  stand  it  as  well  as  Hall ;  and  if  they  should  find 
no  chance  of  escape,  a  man  would  have  to  die  but  once,  and,  therefore, 
he  was  not  afraid  to  go.  A  contract  was  then  made  for  the  term  of 
three  years,  at  a  compensation  of  $25  per  month,  with  the  promise  of 
a  much  larger  sum  if  the  objects  of  the  expedition  should  be  secured; 
and  to  complete  the  papers  properly  required  in  the  case.  Captain 
Parsons  of  the  Isabel,  received  from  Hall  a  copy  of  the  contract,  to  be 
shown,  if  necessary,  at  the  custom-house  in  New  London  on  the 
return  of  the  brig. 

On  the  26th,  Mr.  Gardner  recorded  for  Hall  his  observations  for 
the  day,  which  included  some  lunar  distances. 

On  the  27th,  no  fewer  than  eight  whalers,  the  Cornelia,  George  and 
Mary,  Concordia,  Morning  Star,  Isabel  (brig),  and  Isabel  (schooner), 
with  the  Monticello,  and  her  Tender,  were  all  at  anchor.  The  officers 
and  men  of  these  vessels  very  kindly  added  some  useful  things  to 
Hall's  small  outfit,  and  promised  their  assistance  whenever  it  should  be 
ill  tlieir  power.  The  Morning  Star,  leaving  her  anchorage  for  Cyrus 
W.  Field's  Bay,  received  a  copy  of  Hall's  chart  of  Frobisher  Bay. 
Tli(^  next  day  the  crews  of  the  Monticello  and  Helen  F.  were  engaged 
in  towing'-  tlu-  former  vessel  to  the  place  selected  for  her  winter  quarters. 


AnguM,  1864.]  Hall  Landed  at  Wliale  Point.  59 

At  11.30  a.  m.  of  the  29th  the  anchor  of  the  Tender  was  catted,  and 
Capt.  H.  Y.  Chapel  sailed  with  Hall,  his  two  Eskimos,  and  his  new 
employ^,  Rudolph,  under  instructions  from  the  captain  of  the  Monti- 
cello,  to  convey  them  to  Wager  River.  From  this  point  they  were  to 
proceed  in  the  boat  to  Repulse  Bay,  where  Hall  expected  to  winter 
and  prepare  for  his  sledge  journey  to  King  WilHam's  Land  in  the 
spring.  Three  of  the  whalers  accompanied  the  Helen  F.  out  of  tlie 
harbor,  one  of  which,  the  Isabel,  bound  homeward,  took  letters  to  the 
United  States,  including  some  from  Too-koo-li-too  to  Miss  Sylvia 
Grinnell,  (now  Mrs.  Captain  Buxton,  R.  X.),  and  to  Mrs.  Budington. 

The  Tender  left  her  anchorage  with  a  light  breeze  from  the  north- 
east; but  the  wind  soon  veering  to  the  south  and  freshening,  she  made 
from  four  to  six  knots  per  hour  toward  Cape  Fullerton.  While  cross- 
ing an  inlet  which  Hall  named  after  Captain  Chapel,  he  wrote  his  first 
Arctic  letter  to  Mr.  Grinnell,  dating  it  August  29,  lat.  63°  47  X.,  long. 
89°  58'  W. 

On  the  30th,  he  left  the  vessel  in  Mr.  Chester's  boat  and  landed 
at  Whale  Point,  returning  to  the  schooner  at  about  4.30  p.  m.  The 
next  day  they  had  the  fii'st  sight  of  whales. 

The  captain  of  the  Tender  now  infoi-med  Hall  that  he  had  reached 
Wager  River,  and  would,  therefore,  land  him  in  order  that  the  schooner 
might  return  to  ^larble  Island  to  make  her  winter  quarters.  Both  Hall 
and  Chester  dissented  from  the  captain's  judgment  that  he  had  reached 
the  river.  The  first  officer,  however,  insisted  that  they  were  opposite  its 
southern  entrance.  Early  in  the  morning  of  the  3 !  st,  therefore,  Chester 
again  took  charge  of  the  Sylvia,  with  her  Arctic  outfit,  and  landed 
Hall  with  his  party  at  a  point  which  seemed  to  be,  in  Chester's  judg- 
ment, 35  miles,  but  was  afterward  determined  by  Hall  from  a  meridian 


60  An   Unfortunate  Mistake.  [September,  is64. 

altitude  to  be  40  miles,  south  of  the  point  which  Captain  Chapel  sup- 
posed he  had  reached.  Mate  Newman,  with  a  boat's  crew  from  the 
Tender,  assisted  in  conveying  the  stores  on  shore.  Hall  gives  the 
position  of  this  first  landing  place  as  lat.  64°  35'  N.,  long.  87°  33'  W., 
''  Encampment  No.  1." 

This  mistake  of  the  land  was  a  grievous  disappointment.  The 
remaining  distance  was  clearly  withiu  the  instructions  received  from 
the  captain  of  the  Monticello,  and  it  could  have  been  readily  and  safely 
made.  It  was  more  than  a  disappointment  to  Hall,  for  it  proved  to  be  the 
loss  of  a  whole  year  to  the  expedition.  Had  the  landing  been  secured 
at  the  point  proj^osed  on  AYager  River,  he  might  have  gone  directly  to 
Repulse  Bay,  securing  there  his  winter  quarters,  and  preparing,  as  he 
expected,  for  his  spring  journey.  It  will  be  seen  that  he  was  com- 
pelled to  pass  his  first  winter  near  this  first  landing,  and  that  it  required 
the  larger  part  of  the  oj^ening  season  to  push  on  his  boat  and  stores  to 
Repulse  Ba,y.  Whatever,  however,  may  have  been  the  error,  and  how- 
ever sore  the  disappointment,  no  complaints  are  found  in  his  journal. 

The  crews  using  both  sail  and  oars  found  a  fair  harbor  a  little 
before  meridian,  but  landed  with  difficulty  because  of  the  falling 
tide.  Hall  and  Rudolph  were  in  the  water  waist  deep  to  haul  the 
Sylvia  ashore. 

A  single  white  man  in  a  desolate  region,  and  at  the  beginning  of 
an  Arctic  winter,  but  a  man  of  a  brave  heart  and  of  Arctic  experience  ! 

The  wliole  of  the  first  day  after  landing  he  occupied  in  making 
a  caclie  and  depositing  stores,  in  order  to  reduce  the  weight  of 
tlic  S)  l\ia\s  cargo.  Such  articles  as  were  not  needed  for  immediate 
use  were  carefully  packed  in  three  deposits  under  a  i)onderous  pile  of 


l«<-I>U-nibfr,  I8«4.]  CottStififf    AloflQ    tllC     WclcOVIC.  (11 

rocks.  Tlie  chief  objects  thus  cared  for,  besides  liis  IxK.ks  mid  th<- 
other  personal  effects  of  the  party,  were  tlie  cans  of  jxinmicaii  ;iiid 
of  desiccated  vegetables,  sugar,  coffee,  tea,  and  tobacco,  a  small  sup- 
ply of  spirits,  powder,  shot,  and  percussion  caps.  Several  groups  <.l' 
deer  were  seen  during  the  day,  and  Ebierbing  killed  five  of  their  num- 
ber, bringing  to  the  encampment,  with  Rudolph's  help,  the  skins  «»f 
three  with  part  of  the  meat,  and  leaving  the  remainder  in  a  cache 
three  miles  off.  The  party  had  thus  fresh  meat  almost  immediately 
on  landing. 

On  the  3d,  Hall  resumed  his  voyage  to  Repulse  Bay  by  coasting 
along  to  the  northward.  Having  made  about  five  miles,  lie  Inimd 
himself  completely  headed  by  land  which  shot  directly  atlnvart  his 
course,  though  he  had  supposed  he  should  find  a  channel.  It  was 
simply  a  bay  filled  with  numerous  islands.  The  tide  was  ruiniing 
furiously  before  he  got  out  of  it,  and  it  was  only  by  skillful  manage- 
ment that  the  Sylvia  was  free  from  the  eddies,  currents,  and  oveifalls 
that  abounded  there,  and  was  again  in  smooth  water. 

In  writing  of  this  to  Captain  Chapel,  he  said : 

How  shallow  the  Welcome!  Over  much  of  the  distance  made  from  tlic 
place  of  my  first  encampment  to  second,  in  lat.  04°  50'  30"— 15  miles— our  Sylviii, 
drawing  only  18  inches,  often  touched  bottom  a  half  mile  to  two  miles  fn»m  tlic 
coast.  The  land  on  the  west  side  of  the  Welcome,  at  no  point  between  the  Iwi. 
encampments  named,  can  exceed  30  to  40  feet  in  height.  I  have  no  hesitalion  in 
saying  that  the  American  whalers  who  have  so  successfully  been  navigating  in 
Hudson's  Bay,  especially  in  that  part  of  it  called  Sir  Thomas  Rowe's  Wclcomr, 
since  you  aiul  your  brother  Christopher  first  opened  up  the  whalo-fisliery  in  said 
bay,  in  18G0,  must  be  as  good  navigators  as  the  world  knows  of.  This  is  said 
with  the  full  knowledge  that  little  or  no  dependence  can  be  placed  on  any  com- 
passes on  board  of  your  ships.  Although  my  azimuth  compasses  are  of  the  most 
dehcate  construction,  they  are  virtually  of  no  use  except  to  show  how  i^-rffctly 
fickle  and  unreliable  compasses  are  in  this  portion  of  the  Xorlh. 


62  First  Meeting  with  Innuits.  [September,  is64. 

Eskimo  Joe  now  sighted  with  the  telescope  a  place  ou  the  land  where  the 
liniuits*  had  had  a  late  encampment,  the  marks  being  several  tent-poles  stand- 
ing erect.  A  fe^Y  minutes  later  he  sighted  a  boat  which  was  turned  over  and 
lying  above  high  water  on  the  land  ahead.  From  this  we  concluded  that  the 
nati^•es  could  not  be  far  oft",  and  toward  this  boat  the  Sylvia  was  now  directed. 
When  within  one  mile  of  it  we  were  delighted  at  the  sight  of  a  native  near  this 
boat ;  and  yet  the  joy  was  mingled  with  something  that  was  akin  to  fear,  for  he 
appeared  advancing  cautiously  toward  us  with  gun  in  hand,  and  at  the  same 
time,  as  Joe  thought,  loading  it.  However,  I  caused  my  small  crew  of  three  to 
l)ull  ahead,  and  soon  leaped  fi'om  the  bow  of  the  Sylvia  into  the  muddy  shallow 
water  and  waded  ashore.  The  next  moment  my  hand  was  in  that  of  noble 
Ou-e-Ia's  (Albert's),  as  fine  a  specimen  of  an  Eskimo  as  ever  I  met.  I  told  him 
that  but  a  few  days  before  I  had  seen  you,  and  that  Captain  Chapel  had  brought 
me  and  the  two  Innuits  then  in  the  boat  m  his  vessel  from  my  country,  America. 
Ou-e-Ia's  joy  on  hearing  from  you  seemed  equal  to  mine  on  meeting  him.  He  told 
us  that  his  tupil;,  skin  tent,  and  those  of  several  others  of  his  people,  were  just 
over  a  point  of  land  from  where  we  then  were,  and  that  if  we  would  stop  and 
make  our  encampment  there,  he  and  his  people  would  the  next  day  move  over 
beside  us  and  then  we  all  would  have  a  long  talk.  • 


*  The  appellations  Innuits  and  Eskimos  will  be  used  in  this  Narrative  synonymously,  as  Hall 
uses  them.  It  may  be  as  ■well,  however,  to  give  the  probable  origin  of  the  names  and  their  legit- 
imate application.  The  word  Esquimaux — better  written  Eskimo — is  derived  from  a  root  indi- 
cating, in  the  language  of  the  Northern  tribes,  a  sorcerer.  The  Inn uit  name  i'a(7-HsA.ce7>ie  meaus 
the  house  where  the  shmnans,  sorcerers,  conduct  their  dances  and  incantations.  The  word  Inuuit 
means  jyeople,  and  is  in  use  from  Greenland  to  Bering  Strait.  It  should  take  the  place  of  Es- 
kimos, the  etymology  of  which  is  not  clear.  Mr.  W,  N.  Dall,  in  a  paper  read  before  the  American 
Association  in  I8G9,  and  in  a  number  of  "The  Contributions  to  North  American  Ethnology"  by 
Major  .J.  D.  Powell,  makes  the  following  additional  valued  statements: 

"The  Orariansare  distinguished  (I)  by  their  language,  of  which  the  dialects,  in  construc- 
tion and  etymology,  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  one  auother  throughout  the  group,  and  differ  in 
their  homogeneousness(as  well  as  the  foregoing  characters)  as  strongly  fi-om  their  Indian  dialects 
adjacent  to  them ;  (II)  by  their  distribution,  always  confined  to  the  sea-coasts  or  islands,  some- 
times entering  the  mouths  of  large  rivers,  as  the  Yukon,  but  only  ascending  them  for  a  short  dis- 
tance, and  as  a  rule  avoiding  the  wooded  country;  (III)  by  their  habits,  more  maritime  and  ad- 
venturous than  the  Indians,  following  hunting,  and  killing  not  only  the  small  seal,  but  also  the  sea- 
lion  and  walrus.  Even  the  great  Arctic  bow-head  whale  (and  anciently  the  sperm-whale)  falls  a 
victim  to  their  persevering  etforts  ;  and  the  patent  harpoon,  almost  universally  used  by  American 
whalers  in  lieu  of  the  old-fashionwi  article,  is  a  copy,  iii  steel,  of  the  bone  and  slate  weapon  which 
llie  Innuits  have  used  for  centuries  ;  lastly,  ihey  are  distinguished  by  their  physical  characteris- 
tics, a  light,  fresh,  yellow  complexion,  fine  color,  broad  build,  scaxihbcephalic  head,  great  cranial 
capacity,  and  obliquity  of  the  arch  of  the  zygoma.  The  patterns  of  their  implements  and 
weapons,  and  their  myths,  arc  similar  in  a  general  way  throughout  the  group,  and  equally  differ- 
ent Cnim  (he  Inrliau  types. 

••'I'lic  Oi.iriaiis  are  divided  into  two  well  niarkttl  ;;i()iips,  namely,  the  lunuit,  comprising 
all  (111-  su-<alli  «1  Eskimo  and  Tiiskis,  and  (ho  Aleuts." 


September,  1864.]  Holl    EnCmiqJS    (it    NoO-lVOOlc.  Cu] 

To  this  proposition  Hall  readily  acceded,  and  made  A\itli  tliis 
chief  and  his  people  at  Noo-wook  his  second  encampment,  the  jjosition 
of  which  has  been  already  given.  It  is  to  be  remarked,  however,  that 
this  position  and  the  succeeding  ones  which  may  be  named  are  approx- 
imate only.  His  astronomical  observations,  reduced  from  liis  i(»u;ili 
notes  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  E.  W.  D.  Bryan,  will  be  found 
in  Appendix  I. 

The  tribe  was  one  whose  usual  residence  was  at  the  head  of  Re- 
pulse Bay.  They  had  often  held  intercourse  there  and  at  Depot 
Island  with  the  American  whalers;  had  their  English  names  from 
them,  and  had  in  their  possession  the  boats  and  hunting  implements  of 
civilized  life. 

Hall  and  his  two  Eskimos  were  soon  at  home  among  them,  Ebier- 
bing  and  Too-koo-li-too  acting  from  the  first  as  his  intei-preters,  and 
finding  but  little  difficulty  in  this,  as  the  difference  between  the  new 
dialect  and  that  of  the  Cumberland  Gulf  people  was  readily  over- 
come. Hall's  first  notes  speak  of  OueMs  people  as  one  would  speak  of 
old  acquaintances. 

On  the  7th  [he  says],  first  came  into  my  tupik  Artooa,  Frank,  with  liis  wife 
and  family,  with  their  dogs  and  their  panniers ;  in  the  evening,  Ouela  the  chief, 
and  Ar7nou.  Armou  slept  with  me,  and  all  the  natives  shared  my  breakfast. 
Frank  made  me  a  present  of  six  reindeer- tongues  and  some  salmon. 

Going  ofP  in  the  morning  on  a  hunt  with  Artooa,  Nu-ker-zhoo,  and 
Rudolph,  Hall  met  with  both  white  and  black  I^w/c-too— reindeer— and 
Ebierbing  again  succeeded  in  killing  two.  Returning  in  the  evening 
he  joined  heartily  with  his  Eskimo  brothers  in  their  first  Ankoothiff 
service,  a  superstitious  ceremony  more  than  once  to  be  noted  in  these 
pages,  and  which  occasioned  many  of  Hall's  subsequent  troul)l(s.     1  lis 


6-4  First  Talk  about  Franklin.  [September,  is64. 

first  inconvenience  was  the  An-ge-kd's  decree,  this  day,  that  no  iron 
should  be  filed  by  either  kob-lu-nas  or  Innuits  till  the  ice  formed. 

Armou  the  next  morning,  on  taking  leave,  received  presents  of 
ammunition,  tobacco,  and  deer-skin  mittens ;  and  before  the  party  sep- 
arated on  this  day  Hall  had  begun  his  inquiries  as  to  what  these  na- 
tives might  have  heard  of  Franklin's  men  and  what  they  knew  of  the 
geograph}'  of  the  country  further  north.     He  says  : 

I  was  not  long  in  arriving  at  the  subject  wliicli  led  me  Xorth.  When  I  told 
these  natives  where  I  wanted  to  go,  to  wit,  to  I-wil-lik  (Repulse  Bay),  and  thence 
to  Boothia,  Felix  Peninsula  (which  they  call  Keitchil-le),  to  find  out  all  about 
some  koh-hi-nasj  whites,  that  went  there  many  years  ago,  they  at  once  told  me 
that  there  were  two  ships  lost  near  I^eitchil-le  many  years  ago,  and  that  a  great 
many  loh-Ju-nas,  whites,  died — some  starved  and  some  were  frozen  to  death — but 
that  there  wcrcfonr  that  did  not  die!  How  astounded  I  was  as  Too-koo-li-too  (the 
best  interpreter  of  Innuit  language  into  our  vernacular  that  ever  accompanied 
an  Arctic  expedition)  told  me  this !  Little  did  I  expect  so  soon  to  find  natives 
that  seemed  to  know  a  volume  of  interesting  and  important  facts  bearing  on  the 
Franklin  Expedition.  I  had  before  us  a  large  English  Admiralty  chart  of  the 
Arctic  Regions  from  the  meridian  of  Smith's  Sound  westward  to  that  of  Macken- 
zie River.  They  at  once  pointed  out  where  Repulse  Bay  was,  which  they  called 
I-wil-lik,  and  thence  followed  the  track  of  Dr.  Rae,  whom  they  saw  in  1847  and 
1854.  They  showed  the  locality  of  where  the  two  ships  were  lost,  and  where  Neit- 
cliil-le  is.  They  pointed  out  the  bay  where  they  themselves  were  when  they  heard 
about  the  two  ships  being  fast  in  the  ice,  and  how  the  koh-lu-nas  left  them,  and 
finally  nearly  all  starved  or  froze  to  death.  This  bay  Dr.  Rae  named  Pelly  Bay. 
These  natives  all  told  me  that  I  ought  not  to  think  of  wintering  at  I-wil-lik  (Re- 
pulse Bay) ;  that  1  was  too  late  for  killing  any  tooTc-too  there,  and  that  no  seals  or 
walrus  could  be  killed  there  in  winter.  Besides  all  these  objections  to  my  win- 
tt-ring  at  Repulse  Bay,  all  the  natives  stated  that  I  could  not  pass  the  entrance 
to  AVager  Bay  and  thence  to  Repulse  Bay  at  this  late  season  of  the  year  with  my 
Iie:i\  ily  laden  boat  without  great  risk  of  losing  the  boat  and  our  lives.  Indeed,  I 
could  not  induce  any  one  of  the  natives  to  go  with  me  on  account  of  the  reasons 
now  stated.  Besides,  they  said  I  would  not  find  any  Innuits  at  Repulse  Bay,  for 
they  uniCoiiuly  left  that  ])art  of  the  country  in  the  fall  of  the  year  to  spend  the  whi- 
ter ulieie  theveouhl  kill  seals  aud  walrus.     They  stated  that  it  was  their  own  pur- 


8ii>tciubcr,  1S64.1  Loficly  FecUngs.  65 

pose  to  go  to  Kepulsc  Bay  ucxt  season,  starting  early  iu  the  8i)ring,  and  then  to 
proceed  thence  to  Neitchille,  just  where  I  wanted  to  go;  and  ])r<)p()s«'d  that  il"  I 
would  spend  tlie  winter  here  at  Noo-wook  with  tlieni,  they  would  Inrnish  nu'  and 
my  small  company  with  all  the  took-too,  walrus,  seal,  bear,  and  musk-ox  meat  we 
wanted;  and,  furthermore,  they  would  give  us  plenty  of  reindeer  furs  for  our  win- 
ter dresses  and  bedding,  besides  helping  me  in  doing  anything  I  desired.  Where 
else  in  the  world  could  a  more  free-hearted,  generous  people  be  found  f 

After  spending  several  days  with  them  and  conversing  seriously 
on  the  whole  subject,  Hall  decided,  and  indeed  of  necessity,  to  remain 
at  Noo-wook  for  the  winter.  He  communicated  the  information 
quoted  above  to  Captain  Kilmer,  of  the  Ansel  Gibbs;  that  this  first 
news  might  be  safely  conveyed  to  Mr  Grinnell,  if  he  himself  should 
never  return  home. 

On  the  two  following  days  whales  were  seen  close  to  shore,  their 
backs  being  above  water  for  nearly  a  half  hour.  On  the  1 0th,  Hall 
sent  his  two  Eskimos  with  Rudolph  and  some  of  the  natives  to  his  last 
encampment  to  bring  away  his  stores.  While  awaiting  their  return 
the  feelings  awakened  by  his  now  isolated  situation  were  thus  recorded 
in  his  note-book :  "  I  have  felt  lonely  all  day,  although  within  a  stone's 
tbrow  are  three  tupiks  filled  with  these  kind-hearted  children  of  the 
North.  They  have  been  very  kind,  some  going  to  the  lakelet  for 
water,  some  getting  the  dwarf  shrub  used  in  these  regions  for  fuel,  and 
some  preparing  my  food." 

The  experience  of  his  former  Expedition  having  early  taught  him 
the  helplessness  of  these  poor  beings  when  suffering  with  sickness  or 
bodily  injuries,  he  was  not  unprepared  to  render  assistance,  and  lie 
had  early  calls  upon  him  from  Ar-too-a  and  Ou-e-la.  The  case 
of  one  of  his  patients  is  illustrative.  Ook-har-loo,  an  old  woman,  suf- 
fering with  inflamed  eyes,  was  constantly  rubbing  them  with  her 
S.  Ex.  27 5 


QG  Dr.  Baci's  Oii-Ug-huck.  [Sepieiub.r,  is6i. 

uncleanly  lists.  Having  iirst  sponged  off  with  soap  and  water  "the 
thick  coat  of  primitive  soil "  which  covered  Ook-har-loo^ s  whole  face, 
and  then  presented  her  with  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth  for  her  owr.  use 
in  cleansing  her  eyes,  he  received  her  profound  thanks  for  this  appli- 
cation of  nature's  remedy,  with  the  declaration  that  he  was  the  best 
t>f  Au-<jr-kos.  This  woman  remembered  that  when  very  young  she 
had  staid  aboard  Parry's  ship,  and  showed  tattooing  done  upon  one 
(if  her  legs  at  that  time  by  Crozier's  men. 

The  acquaintance  made  with  the  Eskimos  was  now  daily  im- 
proved by  inquiries  in  regard  to  the  expeditions  of  Parry,  Ross,  Rae, 
and  Franklin,  in  order  that,  by  comparing  with  the  official  narratives 
of  those  officers  what  could  now  be  heard  from  these  people,  Hall  could 
learn  what  confidence  to  place  in  their  accounts  of  Franklin.  He  was 
much  encouraged  by  the  seeming  correctness  of  their  replies.  Among 
these,  Ar-too-a,  whose  age  w^as  about  thirty,  gave  him  a  long  account 
of  the  very  serious  wounds  received  by  Ou-Ug-huck,  one  of  Dr.  Rae's 
interpreters.  Ar-too-ci's  story,  as  found  in  Hall's  journal  of  the  day, 
corresponds  closely  wath  the  record  given  by  Rae  himself  of  the  acci- 
dental wound  and  the  healing  of  Ou-lig-htick  to  be  found  on  pages 
95  and  1)G  of  the  Narrative  of  Rae's  Expedition  to  the  Arctic  Seas  in 
1846-'47.  Ar-too-a  further  said  that  he  and  his  brothers  Oii-c-la  and 
Shu-she-ark-nook  had  seen  Rae  on  each  of  his  expeditions  of  184G  and 
18rj4,  and  that  "although  Ou-Ug-huck,  father  and  son,  and  most  of 
tlie  wliitc  men  smoked.  Dr.  Rae  never  did."  They  all  knew  Rae's 
"  merry  Ir'ttchuk.''''  Hall  was  much  gratified  on  receiving  such  details 
of  incidents  which  occurred  nearly  eighteen  years  previous. 

Tlic  l.otli  was  a  day  of  gale  from  the  north.  The  Welcome  was 
laslied   into  a  fury,  and  the  cold  winds  drove  far  inland  everything 


Miptcmbtr,  IS04.I  '  C Juingc  of  the  Season.  G7 

like  game,  the  hunting  parties  of  the  day  faiHng  to  see  a  singh;  living 
thing — not  even  a  partridge.  The  moon  was  full  ;ii  '.)''  !)'"  (irecnw  itii 
time.  On  the  going  down  of  the  sea,  Hall,  with  liis  new  miiii  I'Viihiv, 
Ar-too-a,  and  Ebierbing,  went  out  in  swift  pursuit  <>f  an  oolc-f/ook  (J'lujca 
harhata)  which  they  had  seen  drifting  down  witli  the  tide,  and  s(;('iii- 
ingly  asleep.  The  Sylvia  had  been  gotten  off  the  rocks  b\'  the  help 
of  the  women.  But  although  the  party  approached  the  seal  cautiousl}-, 
the  noise  of  the  oars  awakened  him,  and  he  disappeared.  'I'ht*  chief 
Ou-e-la,  with  one  of  his  wives  and  a  daughter,  had  early  gone  <ill  tu 
hunt;  the  man,  gun  in  hand,  carrying  on  his  back  a  roll  of  reii ulcer- 
furs,  his  dogs  being  heavily  laden  with  the  provisions  and  cooking 
utensils  placed  on  their  backs  saddle-bag  fashion,  as  is  the  Innuit 
custom. 

Hall  now  experienced  the  beginning  of  a  suffering  like  one  on 
his  first  Expedition — the  breaking  out  of  boils — brought  about  by  the 
change  of  food  from  the  salt  meats  of  ship-life  to  the  raw  or  partially 
boiled  meats  of  the  Eskimos.  The  rapid  change  of  the  season  was  also 
sensibly  felt.  The  nights  began  to  be  cold,  ice  formed  on  the  Insh- 
water  lakes,  and  there  were  signs  of  an  approaching  snow-stonn. 
He  determined  to  secure  a  less  exposed  place  for  the  tupiks. 

On  the  18th,  in  company  with  Ar-too-a,  Shoo-she-ark-uooh,  and 
Ebierbing,  he  selected  a  location  for  himself  and  his  friends  mi  the  east 
side  of  a  low  ridge  of  rocks,  which  \vould  serve  t<>  shield  them  tmni 
the  cold  w^est  and  northwest  winds  that  would  proba])l}-  prevail  tm- 
many  months  to  come.     His  journal  says : 

It  has  been  movln^-day  with  us,  and  an  interesting  i.i<ture  iiiij,'lit  liave  been 
seen;  the  Innuits  and  the  two  Kod-lu-nas,  with  packs  on  our  backs,  trampiu}; 
along  toward  our  destined  new  home.  OM  Mother  Ookbar-loo  had  I'm  licr  pack  a 
monstrous  roll  of  reindeer  skins,  which  was  topped  with  kettles  an.l  pans  and 


68 


On  the  Move. 


[September,  1864. 


various  little  iustiuments  used  by  lunuits  in  their  domestic  affairs,  while  iu  her 
hand  she  canied  spears  and  poles  and  other  things  that  need  not  be  mentioned 


here.  Ar-too-a  had  for  his  pack  his  tent  and  pole,  his  gun  and  et  ceteras  iu  his 
liMiiils.  1 1  is  wife  had  for  her  pack  a  huge  roll  of  reindeer-skins  and  other  things 
iiiiuli  (i|   tlic  cliiirnctcr  oi"  (h)J:-])/ir-Io()\s.      The  dogs  had  saddle-bags,  and  to])i»ing 


s*-ptember,  is6'i.i  Reindeer  Deposits  Visited.  09 

them  were  pannikins  and  such  varied  things  as  are  always  to  be  found  in  Iminit 
use.  Ebierbing  had  for  his  pack  our  tent  and  some  live  or  six  tent-iMtlcs,  whilr 
in  his  hands  he  carried  his  gun.  Cliarley  IJudolph  had  a  large  loll  of  rciii(lc»i- 
skins,  in  his  hands  carrying  numerous  tent-poles.  Too-koo-li-tiM.  liati  ;il>(»  dtcr 
skins,  and  in  her  hands  various  things.  I  carried  on  my  shoulder  two  rill«'s  and 
one  gun,  each  in  covers;  under  one  arm  my  compass  tri])od,  and  in  one  hand  my 
little  basket,  which  held  my  pet  Ward  chronometer,  and  in  the  other  my  trunk  of 
instruments. 

A  snow-drift  set  in  on  the  20th,  but  during  its  continuance  about 
twenty  bags  of  fire-shrub  were  gathered.  It  was  not  the  usual  Andro- 
meda Tetragona,  but  something  of  Hke  character,  and  was  collected 
for  fuel  and  for  a  covering  on  the  tupiks. 

During  the  rest  of  the  month  a  continuance  of  stormy  weather 
prevented  astronomical  observations  The  land  began  to  look  winter- 
like. The  tracks  of  a  wolf  were  now  first  seen ;  it  had  been  busy 
with  the  bear-skins  which  had  been  left  to  dry  near  the  third  encamp- 
ment. The  ground  was  already  covered  with  snow  to  the  depth  of  a 
half  inch ;  the  ice  on  the  lakes  bore  the  weight  of  a  man,  and  the 
heavy  weather  on  the  coast  drove  inland  more  of  the  game. 

The  Innuits,  warned  of  the  necessity  for  procuring  winter  clothing, 
made  a  journey  of  five  miles  down  the  coast  to  their  deposit  of  rein- 
deer-skins. On  their  return,  it  was  a  matter  of  surprise  to  Hall  to  see 
what  heavy  loads  they  were  bearing  on  their  backs,  one  of  the 
youngest  of  the  men  carr3dng  no  less  than  125  pounds,  and  Too-loo- 
ar-a,  one  of  Ou-e-la^s  wives,  100.  In  binding  their  packs  they  passed 
thongs  around  them,  and  these  across  their  foreheads  and  breasts. 
When  appropriating  these  furs,  on  the  following  day,  a  gay  and  novel 
scene  presented  itself  The  best  skins  being  arranged  in  an  outside 
circle,  the  women  were  gallantly  allowed  each  to  make  her  selection 
from  these;  the  remainder  of  the  one  hundred  and  fifty  skins  l)eing 


70  Too  Frequent  Visits.  (September,  i864. 

then  chosen  by  the  men  from  the  inner  circles.  Several  women 
had  young  children  at  their  backs.  "The  gilt  bands  on  their  heads, 
the  spiral  tails  hanging  on  each  side  of  their  broad  faces,  the  boys  and 
girls  at  play,  made  altogether  a  fine  subject  for  a  picture."  Ou-e-la, 
speaking  for  his  companions,  had  requested  Hall  to  take  out  his 
choice  of  furs,  first  of  all. 

The  reindeer  by  this  date  had  nearly  all  gone  south,  not  to  come 
again  till  spring.  Returning  from  a  lonesome  tramp,  on  which  Hall 
bad  made  a  discovery  of  wolf-tracks,  he  was  visited  by  almost  all  of 
the  Innuits  of  the  village,  with  their  congratulations  on  his  escape 
from  a  seeming  danger.  Their  visits  were,  however,  fast  becoming 
so  frequent  and  protracted  as  to  give  him  much  concern.  Fully  dis- 
posed to  do  nothing  but  rest  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  fruits  of  their 
summer  labors,  they  did  little  else  than  visit  and  eat;  "laying  off 
and  eating,  eating,  eating."  Lounging  in  Hall's  tent  the  day  long  and 
talking  witli  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-H-too,  they  became  "quite  a 
bore";  particularly  as  these  talks  were  already  bending  Too-koo-li- 
too's  mind  to  an  inconveniently  slavish  obedience  to  their  customs 
She  gave  the  first  proof  of  this  by  going  off  among  the  rocks  to  mend 
her  took-too  stockings  for  fear  of  offending  these  natives  by  working  at 
all  on  took-too  within  a  tent.  It  was  only  when  all  these  Innuits  had 
retired  to  their  several  tupiks  that  Hall's  company  could  have  a  full 
meal,  rhey  must  always  share  it  with  the  unsophisticated  children 
of  the  North;  "  such  voracious  eaters  that  they  always  get  the  lion's 
share."  The  evening  meal,  however,  usually  consisted  of  but  cold 
rock-pennnican,  tallow-candles,  and  degenerated  meat,  and  even  of  tliis 
Ebiei-bing  and  Too-koo-li-too  were  fortunate  if  they  got  half  a  dozen 
iiiniitlifiils  l«'f(»rr'   all   was   gone.      In  very  pleasant  contrast  Avith  this 


St-pleuiuer,  1H(>4.] 


Winter  Oamr. 


71 


is  found  an  occasional  note  of  tlio  brinj^in^-  In  ])y  Kudolpli  of  a  fat 
rabbit,  in  its  winter  garb,  all  A\liite  excoi)t  tlic  tips  of  its  ears,  "jet 
black;"  or  of  as  many  as  eight  or  ten  siiow-parti'idges.  Flocks  of 
these  birds,  in  their  winter  dress,  snow  white,  exce})t  their  tail-feath- 
ers, were  found  in  numbers  on  the  sea-shore,  after  each  fall  f»f  snow. 
In  the  de])th  of  the  winter  they  are  scarcely  distinguishable  from  the 
snow  at  a  distance  of  10  feet. 


.^ 


PTARMIGAN  ( Tetfuo  Lagopm). 


72  ^n  Aurora.  [scpicmbM-,  isc4. 

Hall's  journal  closes  the  month  of  September  with  an  imagina- 
tive comparison  between  the  early  snow-storms  and  Arctic  aurora : 

While  out  on  a  walk  amid  the  snow-storm  this  p.  m.,  I  was  struck  with  the 
similitude,  in  some  respects,  of  the  appearance  of  the  snow,  as  it  was  swept  along 
by  the  winds  over  the  glassy  surface  of  the  new-made  ice  of  the  lakelets,  to  that 
of  the  aurora  in  these  regions  when  in  its  full  play.  I  refer  to  certain  pe<iuliar 
movements  of  the  one  corresponding  to  the  other.  If  I  wished  a  friend  at  home 
to  get  a  fiiir  idea  of  the  movements  of  the  aurora  here  in  its  general  exhibitions, 
1  should  say  go  out  during  the  first  severe  snow-storm  and  get  within  sight  of 
some  smooth  ice  covering  some  river,  pond,  or  lake,  and  watch  the  snow  as  it  is 
driven  along.  Now  and  then  puffs  of  wind  come  sweeping  along,  so  to  speak, 
rays  or  beams  of  snow  that  seem  to  play  fantastically.  Innumerable  numbers 
of  these  go  to  make  up  a  most  interesting  scene.  While  the  aurora,  in  rays  or 
beams,  shoots  up  vertically,  and  is  of  golden  hue,  and  often  of  prismatic  colors, 
the  snow  is  swept  along  horizontally,  and  is  white,  the  same  as  the  aurora  in 
the  sunlight. — White. 

On  the  5th  of  October,  Joe  brought  to  Hall  some  muk-tuh,  the 
black  skin  of  the  whale,  which  was  much  relished ;  but  Hall  was  still 
suffering  from  boils  on  his  eyelids.  His  whole  party  were  sick,  and 
were  confined  to  their  tents  for  several  days  by  a  storm.  On  their 
recovery,  Ebierbing,  assisted  by  Ou-e-la  and  Armou  built  for  him  a 
large  igloo  near  those  which  the  Innuits  had  already  erected  for  them- 
selves. Hall's  was  built  with  much  care,  although  it  cost  but  two 
hours'  labor;  he  found  it  quite  strong  and  commodious.  Its  diam- 
eter was  10  feet. 

The  construction  of  one  of  these  snow-houses,  built  by  the  Innuits 
of  this  region,  is  described  by  him  substantially  as  follows : 

After  making  trial  of  several  banks  of  snow,  by  plunging  in  tlicir 
long  knives,  on  finding  the  proper  compactness,  they  cut  blocks  2  to 
2^  f(-('t  ill  length  and  {ibout  18  inches  in  thickness.  One  set  is  cut 
fnmi  tlic  spot  on  which  the  igloo  is  to  be  built,  its  floor  being  thus 


October,  1864.)  Igho-BtdlfJmr/.  7;{ 

sunken  18  inches  below  the  general  surface.  In  placiii^-  the  hlccks 
around  this  excavation,  of  about  10  feet  diameter,  the  iiist  tier  is 
made  up  of  those  which,  by  increasing  regularly  in  width,  form  a 


SNOW-KNIFE   MADE   OF   BONE;    DEPOSITED   BY  HALL  IN   THE   SMITHSONIAN   INSTITUTION. 

spiral  from  right  to  left.  They  are  laid  from  within,  each  being 
secured  b)^  a  bevel  on  the  one  last  laid  and  another  bevel  on  the  next 
one  below.  The  joints  are  well  broken.  The  blocks  incline  inwardly, 
thus  regularly  diminishing  the  diameter  of  the  igloo  and  fitting  it  for 
the  dome  or  keystone.  Thirty-eight  blocks  were  here  used.  P^or 
ventilation,  a  small  hole  is  usually  made  by  the  spear.  The  crevices 
are  well  filled  with  snow  within  and  without,  making  it  nearly  an 
air-tight  structure.  For  a  window,  a  small  opening  cut  in  the  dome 
is  filled  in  usually  with  a  block  of  clear  ice ;  in  some  cases  witli  the 
scraped  inner  linings  of  the  seal ;  this  last  makes  a  light  on  whicli 
the  frost  does  not  settle  as  upon  the  ice-blocks.  The  passage-way  to 
the  igloo  is  always  long  and  points  toward  the  south.  The  Repulse 
Bay  natives  shovel  up  much  more  snow  upon  the  hut  than  the  Green- 
landers  do.  The  igloo  lamp  is  sometimes  nothing  more  than  a  flat 
stone,  about  6  inches  in  length,  placed  in  a  niche  cut  out  of  the  wall, 
and  having  on  it  a  little  dry  moss  for  a  wick,  which  is  supplied  Avitli 
oil  by  a  slice  of  blubber  from  the  bear  or  the  seal.  A  stone  lamp  of 
better  form,  although  poor  enough,  will  give  something  of  a  fair  light 
and  warmth. 


IlalTs  Igloo. 


[October,  1864. 


The  comforts  within  such  buildings  are  of  necessity  very  limited. 
It  is  a  matter  of  snrpriso  that   dnrino-  tlie  very  many  tedious  Arctic 


hall's  igloo  at  NOO-WOOK. 


GIlorXD  I'LxVN  01-'   TIIK   IGLOO. 


hours  spent  Avltliiii  them  ]jy  Hall  he  could  bear  with  fortitude  tlieir 
worst  evils;   and  could,  at  the  same  time,  write  his  notes  with   sucli 


(xtober,  1864.1  Wififo'  Quartcrs. 


^:^ 


fullness,  study  and  correct  typographical  errors  in  his  Bowdit(;h,  mikI 
work  up  his  observations.  lie  often  "wondered  at  the  simj. licit \  in 
Avhich   the   necessities   of  life    may  ])e    reduced.      His    house   was    a 


INNUIT   LAMP. 


(Deposited  by  Hall  in  the  Smitlisonian  lustitution  ;  the  fracture  inendod  by  the  natives,  with 
sinew.  Dimensions:  Length,  26  inches;  depth,  11^  inches  to  base  of  flange;  flange,  yj 
inches  thick,  2  inches  high.) 

building  without  a  corner,  wdthout  props  or  braces;  the  wall,  rool", 
and  door  a  unity,  yet  so  strong  as  to  defy  the  power  of  the  fiercest 
Arctic  gales." 

Hall  w'as  now  fairly  established  in  his  winter  quarters.  His 
instruments  for  making  his  observations  were  as  yet  unhurt,  lie  had 
no  apprehensions  as  to  a  want  of  provision.  The  Sylvia  and  other 
boats  were  safely  housed.  And  it  may  not  be  a  matter  too  trivial  in 
this  case  to  be  noticed  that  Ebierbing,  by  the  use  of  scissors,  plied  the 
vocation  of  barber  to  Hall's  beard,  over  wdiich  a  razor  had  not  }  Kissed 
for  six  years.  "Its  length  had  been  a  special  protection  in  the  sunnner 
months  against  those  tremendous  blood-suckers  called  in'  the  Englisli 
tongue  mosquitoes,  which  abound  in  sw\arms  here."  This  last  state- 
ment maybe  remembered  in  contrast  wdth  the  experience  of  Tany's 
men  in  the  higher  latitude  of  Winter  Harbor  in  June.  Parry  says : 
"The  mosquito,"  Culex  pipiens,  "was  never  of  the  least  annoyance 
to  us,  as  is  the  case  on  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay  and  other  cold 
countries." 


76  Letter  to  Chapel.  lortobcr,  isei. 

Some  weeks  after  this,  Hall  wrote  to  his  friend,  the  captain  of  tlu; 
Monticello,  at  Depot  Island : 

I  exchanged  tent  for  snow-house,  and  have  now  been  in  the  igloo  sixty  days, 
and  all  the  time  as  comfortable  as  I  ever  was  in  winter  in  my  life.  You  would  b<- 
(juite  interested  in  takinjj;-  a  wallc  through  my  winter  quarters;  one  nuiiu  Ujloo  ibi 
myself  and  Eskimo  children  (Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too),  and  three  igloon,  all 
Joined  to  the  main,  for  store-houses.  A  low,  crooked  passage-way  of  some  50  feet 
in  length,  made  of  snow,  leads  into  our  residence,  which,  as  you  will  know  from 
the  word  igloo,  means  a  snow-house;  its  shape  is  hemispherical.  1  never  before 
knew  any  Eskimos  so  provident  as  this  tribe  or  clan  I  am  wintering  with.  I  doul  )t 
not  they  have  four  hundred  or  more  of  reindeer,  killed  last  summer,  on  deposit 
within  the  distance  of  a  circle  of  20  miles  in  diameter.  We  are  now  living  on 
polar-bear  and  walrus  meat.  Five  polar  bears,  some  musk-oxen,  a  great  many 
l)artridges,  and  four  walruses  have  been  killed  since  amving  among  the  natives, 
besides  a  lartre  number  of  reindeer. 


HAPTER 


INTERCOURSE     WITH    THE    INNUrrS— THEUI     FEASTS 

AND   HUNTS. 


OCTOBER  TO  DECEMBER  31,  1864. 


CHAPTER    IV. 


Hall's  ministrations  to  the  suffering — Their  gratitude— Feasts  described— Ebikrbin<; 

ANKOOTED — An    AURORA — MAGNETIC    OBSERVATORY    ERECTED — SlEDGE    JOURNEY     DOWN 

THE  Welcome — Musk-ox  hunt — A  fox  caught  in  his  own  trap— Customs  in  making 

REINDEER  DEPOSITS — A  BEAR  SLAIN — PREPARATION  OF  SKINS — HaLL'S  SEAL  HUNT— I'LAY- 
ING  THE  KEY-LOW-TIK— KEMOVAL  TO  THE  WALRUS-GKOXTNDS— OU-E-La'S  INNUIT  STORIES- 

Visit  by  the  natives  to  the  whale-ships  at  Depot  Island — Alleged  reasons  for 

ADVICE  GIVEN  BY  THE  INNUITS  TO  DR.  EaE  IN  1854— DISCOVERY  THAT  A  DAY  HAD  BEEN 
LOST  IN  THE  RECKONING— PRESENTS  RECEIVED  FROM  THE  WHALERS— SUCCESSFUL  WALRUS 
HUNT. 

A  gale  from  the  northwest,  which  had  prevailed  for  three  days, 
was  followed  on  the  8th  by  a  day  with  scarcely  a  cloud  in  the  sky. 
The  temperature  was  quite  low  ;  the  thermometer  inside  the  tent  had 
read  10*^.  Hall  with  difficulty  wrote  out  his  notes,  and  began  to  fear 
he  might  lose  his  ink.  Digging  out  from  a  wide  snow-drift  a  box 
which  contained  two  standard  thermometers,  he  was  glad  to  lind  tlicm 
unbroken.  They  showed  a  temperature  of  20°,  the  air  outside  tlie 
drift  being  10^. 

Although  still  suffering  much  from  an  abscess  close  to  the  ball 
of  his  right  eye,  and  fearing  that  the  left  eye  was  also  endangered,  he 
had  occasion  to  renew  his  visits  of  assistance  to  the  natives,  to  supply 


80  Belief  Given  to  the  Sick  LOciober,  i864. 

tlieir  necessities  both  of  food  and  medicine.  He  found  them  entirely 
out  of  j)rovision.  Coming  quickly  at  his  call,  they  made  a  meal  with 
him  c)n  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  pemmican  each,  and  took  back  a 
supply  for  the  breakfast  of  the  women  and  children.  She-nook-shoo, 
Ooh-har-loo'' s  son,  was  quite  sick  in  his  snow-house.  His  fever  was 
arrested,  and  he  was  restored,  parti}-  by  medicines  and  partly  by 
nutritious  food,  the  suppl}^  of  which  was  controlled.  The  cooking, 
OoJc-har-loo  refused  to  have  done  in  a  kob-lu-na's  iffloo. 

The  poor  people  were  not  lacking  in  a  free  showing  of  thankful- 
ness by  words  and  acts.  They  had  abundance  of  deer-meat  within  a 
radius  of  25  miles ;  probably  three  hundred  reindeer  scattered  over 
the  country  in  the  different  deposits  which  in  their  late  hunting 
season  they  had  made,  and  which  they  now  frequented  to  bring  in 
these  supplies.  Intercourse  between  them  and  Hall  became  still  more 
familiar.  He  often  dined  out ;  and  as  often  invited  them  to  pemmican 
and  coffee. 

A  cordial  invitation  and  a  full  feast  are  thus  described :  Return- 
ing from  a  walk  to  his  third  encampment,  when  coming  near  the 
igloos,  a  band  of  boys  and  girls  came  running  to  meet  him,  crying 
out,  "/fi-e/e,  kal-la,  ea-tu,  ea-tu;  took-too  tood-noo,  am-a-siiit f^^  "Come 
([uick,  for  reindeer-meat  and  tallow  are  ])lenty."  Following  the  youth- 
lul  company  to  the  if/loos,  he  found  a  heavy  load  of  deer  skins  and 
meat  just  brought  in  on  a  sledge  from  one  of  the  deposits.  A  whole 
deer  was  part  of  the  load.  All  the  women  of  the  village  were  present, 
as  this  was  to  be  an  unusual  feast.  The  meat  was  placed  in  one  of 
two  igloos  which  were  connected  by  a  passage  10  feet  in  length,  and  of 
Kuflfic.ient  height  for  a  man  to  stand  uj)  in  it  erect.  In  one  igloo  were 
the  women  ;  in  tlic  other,  the  whole  reindeer  was  on  the  table-cloth — 


October.  I S64. 1  An  ImiiiU  Fettst.  81 

a  tooh-too  skin — before  wliicli  stood  Ou-e-Ui^  naked  from  liis  waist 
up,  with  hand-saw  and  hatchet  to  carve.  Hall  presented  each  <»f  the 
men  with  a  long  knife,  with  his  own  name  marked  on  the  blade. 
He  enjoyed  the  meat,  which  was  good,  as  well  as  the  reindeer-fat, 
which  was  2  inches  thick  and  abundant.  On  visiting  the  women's 
igloOj  he  found  Mother  Ook-har-loo  with  an  old  one-eyed  lady  and  all 
the  younger  ones  seated  around  a  pile  of  meat,  having  a  happy  time ; 
three  others,  with  their  naked  infants  at  their  backs,  sitting  near,  on 
the  bed-place,  Turk-fashion. 

At  another  dinner,  which  consisted  of  boiled  deer-meat  and  soup 
made  of  the  blood,  Hall  thought  the  cooking  was  better  than  that 
from  iron  pans  and  pots ;  and  he  says  that  the  stronger  the  venison, 
even  if  putrid,  the  better  he  and  the  Innuits  relished  it.  "  It  has  a 
rich  flavor,  while  fresh  venison  is  almost  tasteless."  On  the  14th,  he 
dined  at  Nu-her-zhod's,  "Jack's,"  on  the  usual  fare  of  frozen  deer-meat, 
having  lunched  on  black-whale  tail  with  relish.  At  supper  his  own 
invited  guests  feasted  on  a  soup  made  by  cooking  pemmican,  Borden 
meat,  and  biscuit  in  a  liberal  quantity  of  water.  Hot  coffee  with 
raw  frozen  venison  was  found  to  be  distasteful.  ''The  two  do  not  go 
well  together,  for  after  a  drink  of  hot  liquid  the  icy  venison  makes 
the  teeth  ache.  The  change  is  entirely  too  great.  The  Innuits  take 
all  their  warm  drink  first;  they  have  sound  teeth." 

He  now  began  to  discuss  his  plans  with  them  more  full}'  in  ordt-r 
to  ascertain  what  assistance  they  would' render  him  ;  proposing  to  pro- 
ceed to  Iwille,  or  Iwillih  (Repulse  Bay),  with  the  whole  company,  and 
there  make  his  headquarters,  and  thence  move  on  by  sledges  to  Neit- 
chille,  Boothia  Felix.  He  would  there  determine  upon  the  best  way  of 
reaching  King  William's  Land.  'J'he  Innuits  agreed  to  assist  him,  but 
S.  Ex.  27 0 


82  The  An-ge-Jw  Orders  Hall  to  Burn  His  Clothes,      lociobcr,  is64. 

advised  that  the  whole  company  go  well  armed  to  Neitchille,  as  there 
existed  a  strong  war-like  feeling  between  the  natives  of  that  region 
and  those  of  Iwillik. 

Hoping  to  remove  every  obstacle  in  the  way  of  accomplishing 
the  object  of  his  expedition,  he  accepted  their  advice  and  subjected 
himself  to  the  unreasonable  demands  of  the  customs,  prejudices,  and 
even  of  the  superstitions  of  the  natives.  As  an  instance  of  the  last  of 
these,  he  now  submitted  to  the  loss  of  even  his  most  valuable  garments, 
since  an  an-ge-ko  (conjurer  or  medicine  man)  required  them  to  be 
burned  after  he  had  professedly  cured  Ebierbing  from  sickness.  Hall 
consented  to  believe  that  Ebierbing  seemed  much  better  after  the 
operation,  but  was  unprepared  for  the  an-ge-kd's  decree,  that  his  own 
reindeer-skins,  and  those  of  his  two  P^skimo  companions,  should  be 
destroyed.  The  favor  of  the  Innuits  was,  however,  thus  kept  up; 
they  had  already  given  him  many  skins,  and  he  felt  sure  they  would 
give  more,  if  needed.  He  began  to  hope  that  these  people,  about  forty 
in  number,  were  becoming  bound  to  him  by  strong  ties,  and  would 
co-operate  with  him  on  his  journey.  He  thought  them  the  best  of  the 
Eskimos  with  whom  he  had  met ;  and,  willing  to  adapt  himself  to  their 
habits  in  every  respect,  he  discarded  his  outer  clothing  at  this  early 
stage  of  the  season,  and  dressed  himself  in  a  full  Innuit  suit. 

The  varying  temperature  of  this  part  of  the  month  kept  the  whole 
party  watchful  of  the  state  of  their  snow-houses,  which  were  further 
endangered  by  their  heated  atmosphere,  when  crowded  by  visitors  day 
and  ni^lit.  On  the  15th  the  thermometer  read  34°  all  day  inside,  and 
27°,  30°,  and  28°  outside.  The  domes  of  all  the  igloos  of  the  village 
were  riddled  with  holes  and  threatened  to  cave  in.  Hall's  had  one 
prop  to  keep  up  tlie  dome  during  the  day,  and  at  night  he  added  two 


October,  1864.]  Afi  AuTora.  83 

more,  and  watched  his  chronometers  close  at  his  side,  that  ]\e  miirht 
shelter  them  if  the  roof  should  foil.  Awaking  next  morninn^  he  found 
a  dozen  large  windows  which  had  been  made  by  the  melting  snow. 
The  premises  were  then  vacated,  and  his  friends  took  down  the  old 
walls  and  rebuilt  him  a  house,  handling  the  snow-blocks  with  great 
care,  as  they  lacked  their  usual  compactness.  Again  anxiously  watch- 
ing the  thermometer,  at  8  p.  m.  he  found  it  read  31°,  the  wind  being 
from  the  southeast  with  snow,  which,  if  it  changed  to  rain,  would  bring 
down  every  igloo  in  the  village;  but,  at  1  a.  m.  of  the  16th,  the  wind 
shifting  to  the  northeast  brought  the  thermometer  down  to  0°.  The 
weather  cleared  up. 

An  aurora,  seen  on  the  night  of  the  18th,  is  thus  described  in  the 
journals : 

At  10  p.  m.  I  went  out,  and  the  aurora  was  spanning  the  azure  vault.  A 
smart  breeze  from  the  north  was  blowing  nearly  the  whole  night.  This  seemed 
to  add  to  the  briskness  of  the  merry  dancers  as  they  crossed  the  heavens  to  and 
fro.  An  hour  before,  the  sky  was  clear,  not  a  cloud  or  an  aurora  ray  to  be  seen; 
now,  a  belt  extended  across  the  heavens,  arch-like,  some 25°  above  the  horizon,  its 
direction  being  from  southeast  to  northwest.  I  watched  the  rising  arch.  Every 
few  moments  gave  varied  and  magnificent  changes.  At  length  patches  of  aurora 
burst  forth  here  and  there.  Graduallj'  the  main  arch  reached  the  zenith,  and  tljen 
was  the  grand  part  of  the  scene.  Much  of  what  was  before  in  perpendicular  rays 
shot  athwart  and  across  the  heavens  swiftly  like  a  river  of  molten  gold,  here  and 
there  forming  vast  whirlpools,  here  and  there  an  eddy,  here  and  there  a  cataract 
of  stupendous  fall.  When  above  my  head,  it  seemed  less  than  a  pistol-shot  <lis- 
tant.  Indeed,  it  was  near  by.  When  I  moved  quickly,  running  up  to  tlic  toj)  of 
the  hill  by  the  igloo,  making  a  distance  of  less  than  50  fathoms,  the  arch  of  the 
aurora,  that  seemed  stationary  while  I  was  by  the  igJoo  and  in  transitu,  was  now 
several  degrees  to  the  southwest  of  me.  I  returned  as  quickly  to  the  it/loo,  and 
the  auroral  belt  was  diiectly  overhead.  So  small  a  base,  with  so  palpable  a 
change  in  the  bearing  of  the  aurora,  proved  that  it  must  have  been  quite  close  to 
the  earth.  A  ball  of  fire  fell  during  the  display,  and  burst  just  before  it  reached 
the  earth,  throwing  out  prismatic  scintillations  in  every  direction. 


,s4  Noise  from  the  Aurora  {?).  [October,  isoj. 

Hall  found  liimself  unable  to  decide  whether  any  noise  actually 
proceeded  from  the  aurora.  On  questioning  the  Innuits  as  to  whether 
they  were  accustomed  to  hear  noises  during  its  display,  they  answered 
"Yes;"  one  of  them  endeavoring  to  imitate  the  sound  by  a  puffing 
noise  from  his  mouth,  which  noise,  Hall  says,  did  remarkably  accord 
with  what  he  thought  he  had  heard  himself  during  the  time  of  tljo 
most  active  displays.*  Auroral  action  of  equal  interest  occurred 
repeatedly  during  the  month. 

On  the  21st,  Hall  endeavored  to  erect  a  magnetic  observatory. 
Armou  cut  out  the  snow-blocks  and  sledged  them  to  the  center  of  a 
fresh-water  pond  about  fifty  yards  from  the  igloo  and  covered  with  ice 
several  feet  in  thickness.  Hall  assisted  in  the  building,  passing  the  blocks 
of  snow,  wliich  on  the  back  and  on  the  north  side  of  the  building  were 
placed  in  two  tiers  half  way  up,  making  a  double  wall  to  shield  from 


*  Lieutenant  Hooper,  E.  N.,  second  in  command  of  Lieutenant  Pulleu's  Boat-Expedition 
from  Icy  Cape  to  Mackenzie  River,  spent  the  winter  of  1849-'50  near  Fort  Franklin,  on  Bear 
Lake.  He  wrote  in  liis  journal :  "  I  liave  heard  the  aurora,  not  once,  but  many  times ;  not  faintly 
and  indistinctly,  but  loiully  and  unmistakably  ;  now  from  this  quarter,  now  from  that,  now  from 
one  point  on  high,  and  at  another  lime  from  one  low  down.  At  tirst  it  seemed  to  resemble  the 
sound  of  iield-ice,  then  it  was  like  the  sound  of  a  water-mill,  and,  at  last,  like  the  whirring  of  a 
cann<ui-shot  heard  from  a  short  distance." 

But  at  a  later  dale  in  his  Arctic  life  Hooper  says  :  "  I  fancied  that  I  heard  this  iinroni,  but 
the  noise  was  indulntably  produced  by  the  cracking  of  the  ice  on  the  lake." 

"There  is  uo  satisfactory  evidence,"  says  Professor  Loomis,  "  that  the  aurora  ever  emits  au 
audibh;  sound.  The  sound  sup])osed  to  have  been  heard  has  been  doscril)ed  as  a  rustling,  hiss- 
ing, crackling  noise.  But  the  most  competent  observers,  who  have  spent  several  w^inters  in  tlio 
Arctic  liegions,  where  auroras  arc  seen  in  their  greatest  l)rilliancy,  have  been  convinced  th.-it  this 
sujtposed  rustling  is  a  mere  illusion.  It  is,  therefore,  inferred  tliat  the  sounds  which  have  been 
ascribed  to  the  aurora  must  have  been  due  to  other  causes,  such  as  the  motion  of  the  wind,  or  the 
crackling  of  the  snow  and  ice  in  consequence  of  their  low  temperature.  If  the  aurora  emitted 
any  audibh;  sound,  this  sound  ought  to  follow  the  auroral  movement  after  a  considerable  inter- 
val. Sound  requires  four  minutes  to  travel  a  distance  of  iiO  miles.  But  the  observers  who  report 
noises  succeeding  auroral  movements  make  no  mention  of  any  interval.  It  is,  therefore,  inferred 
that  the  sounds  which  have  been  heard  during  auroral  exhibitions  are  to  lie  ascribed  to  other 
causes  than  the  aurora."     (Treati.se  on  Meteorology,  p.  186.) 

Ilearne  says  that  the  Northern  Indians  call  the  aurora  cd-thin,  i.  e.,  deer,  from  their  hav- 
ing seen  hairy  deer-skin,  when  l»riskly  stroked,  emit  electric  s]>arks.  The  Southern  Indians 
believe  it  to  be  tin;  spirits  of  departed  friends  danciiiL;.  When  the  .lurora  v:iries  in  ccdor  and 
form,  they  say  their  deeensed  friends  are  nrij  mirrij. 


Oc:ob<-r,  1SH4. 


First  Sleil(/c   Trip. 


So 


the  coldest  gales.  A  large  snow-block  fashioned  int<»  a  (•<»hiniii  ."'. 
feet  in  height  was  set  upright  in  tlie  center  of  tlic  oh.scrvatnrN-,  and 
its  top  rounded  off  by  another  block.  The  wliolc  was  made  iiil<»  snlid 
ice  by  pouring  water  on  it.  The  house  was  now  read\'  I'ni-  tlic  (lip 
circle  which  had  been  loaned  by  the  United  States  Coast  Survey. 
The  circle  was  unfortunately  broken  before  it  could  be  used  with 
success.* 

Discovering  that  his  ink  was  frozen  solid,  he  tried  the  successful 
experiment  of  boiling  down  about  a  pint  to  a  thick  paste,  obtaining:-,  )»y 
diluting  this,  a  supply  for  his  present  use,  and  preserving  his  ink- 
powder  and  anti-freezing  ink,  the  gift  of  the  American  Bank  Note 
Company  of  New  York. 


■^ 


J> 


KSKl.MO   SLED. 


On  the  22d  a  sledge  journey  of  10  miles  was  made  down  the 
Welcome,  to  give  the  hungry  dogs  of  the  Innuits  a  full  meal  lr..ui  a 
whale's  carcass.  The  runners  of  this  sled,  made  of  2-incli  j)lank,  weie 
16  feet  lono;,  each  beinar  shod  with  bone  from  the  jaw  of  a  whale.  Its 
15  cross-bars  made  of  staves,  each  3  feet  4  inches  long  and  f)  inches 

'Before  Hall  left  New  York  Mr.  James  Green,  instrument-maker,  set  up  this  eirelo  en 
•rrounfl  adjoining  Mr.  Rutlierfurd's  observatory  and  went  through  a  set  <.f  ol.s.-rval  ions  and  <.f 
exj)lana1ory  instruction  with  Hall.. 


86  The  First  Musk-ox  Hunt.  lOdobcr,  is64. 

wide,  were  lashed  to  the  top  of  the  runners  by  strong  strips  of  wah'us- 
hide.  This  play  of  the  runners  makes  the  Eskimo  sled  superior  to  all 
others  in  its  flexibility  over  hummocky  ice.  Their  depth  was  9  inches, 
and  the  width  of  the  sled  outside  of  them,  3  feet. 

The  four  Innuits,  Ou-e-Ia,  Ar-too-a,  Nu-ker-zhoo,  and  Oong-oo-too, 
accompanied  Hall,  the  dog  team  being  made  up  of  fifteen  dogs.  Un- 
able to  find  the  whale  by  reason  of  the  quantity  of  pack-ice  which  had 
been  forced  on  shore,  the  paity  crossed  a  bight  and  succeeded  in  satis- 
fying the  dogs  from  the  carcasses  of  two  bears,  which  were  with  difii- 
culty  uncovered  from  a  frozen  mass  of  stones.  Making  upon  the  rocks 
a  scanty  meal  from  what  they  had  brought  with  them  without  touch- 
ing the  bear-meat,  they  lighted  their  pipes  and  took  a  good  smoke. 
Then  placing  some  provision  within  two  deer  skins  which  were  made 
up  by  thongs  into  rolls  to  be  drawn  by  the  dogs,  they  started  on  a 
westerly  course  inland  to  visit  some  of  the  reindeer  deposits.  The 
sled  was  left  behind. 

A  more  exciting  scene  now  offered  itself.  Ou-e-la  soon  discov- 
ered the  tracks  of  musk-oxen,  and  brought  up  the  whole  party  by  his 
cries  of  '■'■  Oo-ming-mimg,  Oo-ming-mimg."  Quickly  deciding  that  the 
tracks  were  not  very  old,  and  that  the  animals  might  be  sighted,  they 
entered  on  what  the  natives  regard  as  their  great  hunt.  The  tracks 
freshened.  The  animals  were  not,  however,  sighted  during  the  day. 
The  party  had  to  get  up  an  igloo  and  retire  to  rest  with  but  a  scanty 
meal  of  about  3i  ounces  for  each  man,  part  of  which  consisted  of 
"casino." 

Outside  of  the  igloo,  the  thermometer  showed  16°  and  inside,  25°; 
a  temperature  pronounced  uncomfortable  by  the  four  warm-blooded 
Innuits  and  the  one  pale-face,  all  of  whom  slept  closely  sandwiched. 


oc:obfr,  1S61.I  The  First  Mush- Ox  Jfiint.  87 

Hall's  head  and  shoulders  were  between  two  of  his  friends,  while  his 
feet  and  legs  were  mixed  up  with  those  of  the  other  two.  Early 
in  the  morning,  after  smoking  in  bed,  his  companions  gave  him 
the  only  breakfast  which  could  be  had — the  marrow  melted  during 
the  night  from  a  few  reindeer-bones  kept  close  by  their  flat  stone 
lamp.  They  then  slaked  their  tliirst  from  a  lakelet,  cutting  the  ice 
to  the  depth  of  18  inches,  and  resumed  their  hunt.  Following  the 
tracks  which  led  in  different  directions,  at  one  time  southwardly  toward 
the  "Great  Sea"  (Hudson's  Bay),  and  at  others  for  long  distances 
over  hill  and  valley,  at  length  they  descried  two  animals  on  the  top 
of  a  hill  at  the  opposite  end  of  a  lake.  The  dogs  were  immediately 
loosed,  but  very  soon  some  could  not  be  prevented  from  turning  aside 
to  the  tracks  of  reindeer.  After  considerable  delay,  however,  they 
were  again  brought  together  by  the  cries  of  the  Innuits,  whose  sharp, 
experienced  eyes  readily  discriminated  between  the  tracks  of  the 
reindeer  and  those  of  the  musk-ox.  The  hoofs  of  both  are  as  lar^re 
as  those  of  the  common  ox,  and  much  the  same  in  appearance;  but 
the  little  knobs — fetlocks  (?) — behind  the  hoofs  are  the  tell-tale  be- 
tween the  tracks,  those  of  the  reindeer  being  more  prominent  and 
longer  The  stand-droppings  of  the  deer  are  like  those  of  the  sheep; 
of  the  musk-cattle,  "much  like  those  from  our  cattle  when  dry- 
fed." 

The  party  at  this  time  had  much  difficulty  in  the  ])ursuit,  the 
snow  being  too  soft  to  support  their  weight.  As  much  as  possible  of 
the  route  was  selected  over  the  bare  rocks,  in  passing  over  which  they 
came  frequently  to  places  where  the  musk  bull  or  cow  had  pawed 
through  the  snow  and  fed  upon  the  grass  and  mosses  of  the  soil; 
unmistakable  signs  also  appeared  of  their  having  lain  down  and  rested 


88  A  Fox  Caught  in  His  Own  Trap.  [Odobor,  is64. 

through  the  night.  T\yo  of  the  Innuits  went  forward  to  follow  up  the 
tracks  to  which  some  of  the  dogs  had  continued  to  keep  close. 

Hall,  with  Ou-e-la  and  Ar-too-a,  turned  aside  to  visit  a  reindeer 
deposit.  Noticing  the  tracks  of  a  fox,  on  close  examination  they  found 
a  hole  through  a  snow-bank  which  covered  a  cache,  and  on  loosening 
some  of  the  stones  discovered  a  fox  alongside  of  the  meat  within.  He 
was  (lead  and  frozen  hard  as  a  rock.  The  hungry  fellow  had  burrowed 
through  the  drift  and  forced  his  gaunt  body  in  through  a  very  small 
hole  between  the  stones.  But  he  had  so  gorged  himself  that  it  was 
impossible  for  him  to  get  back  through  the  hole  by  which  he  had 
entered.  The  meat  was  left  untouched,  for  the  Innuits  cannot  eat 
what  a  fox  has  meddled  with.  Ou-e-la  led  the  way  to  another  cache, 
which  he  opened,  but  only  by  a  very  severe  hammering  of  one  stone 
upon  another  to  unloose  the  mass,  locked  up  as  it  was  by  the  ice  A 
bountiful  re[)ast  was  made  by  the  hungry  travelers  from  the  best  parts 
of  the  meat,  while  the  legs  and  head  were  re-cached  for  future  use. 

Hall  notes  that  the  custom  of  the  Innuits  when  making  these 
deposits  is  to  throw  down  the  carcass  of  the  slain  deer,  and  then  to  place 
upon  and  around  it  the -head,  legs,  shoulders,  and  saddle ;  covering  the 
whole  with  a  heavy  pile  of  stones.  The  frozen  mass  soon  becomes  so 
solid  that  any  one  but  an  Innuit  would  expect  to  separate  it  only  by 
blasting,  or  by  the  use  of  the  pick  and  the  crow-bar.  The  Innuit  perse- 
veringly  divides  it  by  using  a  wedge-shaped  stone,  on  which  he  strikes 
his  ])l<iws  with  another  often  weighing  100  pounds. 

After  visiting  this  deposit,  Ou-e-la  catching  up  the  distant  sound 
of  the  dogs,  by  the  use  of  Hall's  glass  descried  his  companions  about 
four  miles  distant,  standing  by  the  side  of  a  slain  ox.  The  party  again 
slaking  their  thirst  at  a  lakelet,   the   water   of  which,  as  usual,  was 


October,  1S64.]  A  Becir-IIuut.  81) 

tilled  with  small  vermin,  socm  joined  their  coni])ani(ms.  'I'lic  slain 
animal  was  immediately  cut  up  and  hauled  to  tlio  if/loo,  within  w  liicli 
all  rested  more  comfortably  on  the  night  following,  rcposino-  on  a 
part  of  their  prize,  the  soft  woolly  skin,  which  felt  like  a  feather-bed. 
Having  no  blubber  for  oil,  they  could  have  no  liglit.  In  tln^  morning, 
after  making  more  than  one  meal  on  their  fresh  meat,  they  succeeded 
in  getting  their  spoils  to  the  place  where  they  had  left  their  sledge, 
which  they  now  heavily  loaded.  x\n  addition  of  reindeer  and  bear 
meat  made  up  a  weight  in  all  of  nearly  3,000  pounds,  a  heavy  burden 
of  200  pounds  for  each  of  the  dogs.  They  arrived  at  home  early  in 
the  afternoon,  the  state  of  the  weather  having  dissuaded  them  from 
pursuing  the  second  musk-ox. 

The  day  following,  after  a  long  pursuit  by  eight  of  the  Innuits 
and  their  boys  with  guns,  spears,  and  dogs,  the  party  at  times  travel- 
ing over  very  rough  ice  and  then  on  the  new  sea-ice  which  in  some 
places  treacherously  opened  under  them,  a  bear  was  slain  by  a  third 
ball,  after  his  taking  to  the  open  water  A  line  passed  through  his 
jaws  brought  the  carcass  on  the  floe,  where,  the  weight  of  the  animal 
being  reduced  by  removing  his  entrails,  the  prize  was  at  last  secured 
by  being  drawn  by  ropes  fastened  through  his  nose  and  to  each  of  his 
fore  paws  over  the  thin  ice  and  across  the  fissures  to  the  firm  land 
While  Hall  was  assisting  in  dragging  this^  bear,  he  i-epeatedly  broke 
til  rough  the  ice  into  the  sea. 

His  next  trip  was  with  two  parties  of  the  Innuits  coasting  on 
two  sleds — one  10  feet  in  length,  the  other  G — over  ice  so  rough 
that  "as  they  went  along  banging  and  thumping  over  it  the  very 
life  seemed  to  be  shaken  out,  and  with  difficulty  they  clung  to  the 
sleds."     Arriving  at  a  place  where  they,  some  time  before,  liad  made 


90  A  Dainty  Feast.  [October,  j 864. 

a  deposit  under  a  boat,  and  turning  it  \\\)  by  the  use  of  the  mast 
as  a  lever,  the  Innuits  selected  some  needed  things;  among  them  a 
keg  of  blubber,  which  they  presented  to  him.  Their  meal  on  this 
trip  was  again  made  on  the  skin  from  the  tail  of  the  black  whale. 
Seals  were  seen,  but,  following  their  custom,  the  Innuits  would  not 
now  luint  them,  not  having  finished  their  work  on  the  reindeer-skins. 
Until  the  walrus  season  begins,  when  they  may  have  killed  the  bear  or 
seal  tlie}-  only  make  a  deposit  of  the  animal. 

Tlie  supply  of  venison  being  still  abundant,  feasting  in  the  village 
was  an  every-day  affair.  When  the  invitations  were  general,  as  on  the 
29th,  the  feast  was  held  in  two  connected  igloos,  in  one  of  which  all  the 
women  sat,  as  usual,  Turk  fashion,  on  their  snow-bench  bed,  while  in  the 
center  lay  a  huge  pile  of  raw  frozen  venison  and  tood-noo,  reindeer-fat. 
In  tlie  other  igloo  the  men  crowded  close  together;  the  walls  of  both 
resounding  with  peals  of  laughter,  above  the  confusion  of  tongues.  When 
they  began  the  feast,  a  large  piece  of  venison  was  picked  up  by  one  and 
the  edge  of  it  taken  between  the  teeth  which  answered  admirably  as  a 
vice  to  hold  it  fast,  while  the  knife  in  the  right  hand  was  plied  with  saw 
movements  near  the  nose,  cutting  the  meat  downward,  but  with  danger 
to  nose  and  lips.  In  this  way  as  large  a  piece  of  meat  was  cut  off  as 
could  be  gotten  into  a  widely-distended  mouth.  The  main  piece  was 
then  passed  to  the  next  guest,  who  followed  suit.  The  tood-noo,  in  its 
luni,  was  served  in  the  same  way.  The  eyes  of  the  reindeer  were  a 
delicate  morsel.  A  dish  of  reindeer  heads  and  necks,  boiled  with 
water  and  a  large  quantity  of  reindeer- blood  making  rich  soup,  some- 
times closes  the  feast.  Each  guest  takes  a  sup  of  this  in  turn  until 
it  is  gone.  The  woman  of  the  house  then  licks  the  ook-sook  (pot),  clean 
and  i)repares  her  own  mess.     The  children  are  stuffed  almost  to  suffo- 


October,  kS64.J 


Preparation  of  Ilcindccr-.'^Lu/s. 


1)1 


cation.     The  meals  l)eiiiu;'  finished,  each  one  scra})es  the  grease  from 
his  face  into  his  nioutli  and  hcks  his  fni<^ers. 

Tlie  Innuits  Inisily  employed  themselves  diirini;-  the  i-ciiuiiiHlcr  of 
the  o})en  season  in  the  i)reparation  of  reindeer-skins  foi-  dresses  ;ind 
bed-coverings  ;  their  custom  in  this  differing  from  that  of  the  natives  <»i' 
Cumberland  Sound,  in  the  help  given  to  the  women  by  the  men.  Tlie 
processes  for  this,  Hall  says,  are;  first,  to  scrape  the  skin  by  an 
instrument  called  sek-Jwon  (by  the  Frobisher  Bay  Innuits,  tcg-se- 
koon).     This  instrument  is  about  6  inches  long,  including  the  liandle, 


Boue  edge.  Inin  edge. 

SEK-KOONS   UK   SKIN  SCKArEUS,  HALF   fSIZK. 

(Deposited  by  Hall  at  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  ■Washington.') 

and  is  made  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  whet  or  oil  stone,  or  else  of  musk-ox 
or  reindeer  bone,  or  of  sheet-iron.  The  second  step  is  to  dry  the  .skins 
thoroughly;    the  third,   to  scrape   again   with   the  svh-koon,  taking  otf 


92  An-koO-ting.  [October,  1S«4. 

every  bit  of  the  flesh  ;  the  fourth,  to  wet  the  flesli  side  and  wrap  it  up 
for  thirty  minutes,  and  then  again  scrape  with  the  sek-JiOon;  which  last 
operation  is  followed  \)y  chewing  the  skin  all  over,  and  again  scraping 
and  cross-scraping  with  the  instrument.  Hiese  laborious  processes 
Hall  describes  as  resulting  "  in  the  breaking  of  the  skin,  making  the 
stiff  hide  soft-finished  like  the  chamois-skin."  The  whole  work  is 
often  completed  within  an  hour. 

Within  the  week  which  followed,  an-koo-tiny  was  again  practiced 
in  the  igloos.  On  two  occasions  Ebierbing  earnestly  pleaded  that  the 
an-ge-ko  would  relieve  him  from  rheumatism  with  which  he  had 
severely  suffered.  AVith  Hall's  consent  he  propitiated  the  an-ge-ko 
by  the  present  of  one  of  his  two-quart  tin  coffee-buckets.  When 
the  hour  came,  a  large  deer-skin  was  susjjended  in  the  back  part 
of  the  igloo.  The  an-ge-ko,  who  on  this  occasion  proved  to  be 
Ar-too-a,  entered  with  three  men  and  the  old  woman  Ook-bar-loo,  and 
immediately  asked  that  the  light  on  the  table,  where  Hall  had  seated 
himself  to  take  notes,  should  be  put  out.  The  wide-extended  wick  of 
the  Eskimo  lamj)  also  was  thumbed  down,  except  a  bit  at  one  end, 
which  gave  just  light  enough  to  make  the  scene  gloomy  and  cold. 
Tlie  an-ge-ko  then  took  off  his  boots,  and,  standing  on  the  bed-place, 
made  a  speech  of  about  ten  minutes,  during  which  Mother  Ook-har- 
loo\s  musical  voice  in  the  well-known  song,  "Am-na-yu-ya,"  contrasted 
strangely  witli  tlie  hoarse  tones  of  the  an-ge-ko,  who  sometimes  made 
the  dome  of  tlu;  snow-house  shake.  Ebierbing  cried  out  from  time  to 
time,  ''At-tee!  yl^^ee.'"  (Good !  Good  !  goon).  ^?z-^e-A-o  then  shpped 
quietly  behind  tlie  curtain  and  made  a  sort  of  fluttering  with  his  mit- 
tened  hands,  occasionally  uttering  a  few  words  which  seemed  to  be  in 
tho  tone  of  ])etition   to  the  Great  Unknown.     When  Ebierbing  was 


October,  1S64.J  Httll  A  WIS  ut  CI  Seal  DP) 

operated  on  a  second  time,  tlie  ceremony  was  essentiall>-  tlie  same. 
The  company  patientl}^  awaited  the  an-ge-hos  appearance  for  lialf  an 
hour,  when  he  entered  Imnnning  an  Eskimo  song,  and  then  retirini;-, 
re-entered  with  the  same  song-  in  the  low  door-wa}^,  OoJ:-har-loo  again 
striking  up  her  monotony.  Among  liis  antics  at  this  time  lie  gra})i)led 
with  and,  with  a  seeming  supernatural  strength,  readily  threw  down 
tw^o  of  the  strongest  Innuits. 

Of  this  an-lioo-ting  the  chant  is  the  most  striking  feature;  it  is  low 
and  monotonous,  and  often  broken  by  the  suppressed  sobs  and  moaning 
of  the  sick.  The  grim,  swarthy  faces  of  the  men  and  women  spectrally 
illuminated  by  the  fitful  gleams  of  the  stone  lamp,  and  their  dark  bodies 
swaying  awkwardly  to  and  fro  and  keeping  time  to  the  rude  intona- 
tions of  their  barbarous   songs,  make  up  a  wild  and  unearthly  scene. 

The  last  day  of  October  was  comparatively  warm ;  the  wind 
was  southerly.  From  the  top  of  a  neighboring  hill.  Hall  saw  with 
his  marine  glass  a  number  of  seals,  from  two  to  three  miles  to  the 
northeast,  basking  on  a  floe  One  of  them  especially  tempted  him, 
as  it  was  seen  very  near  hummocky  ice,  which  might  serve  as  a  mask 
until  he  could  get  within  rifle-shot.  Crossing  the  shallow  bay,  and 
trudging  wearily  over  the  very  rough  ice  in  some  places  so  massive 
as  to  hide  the  animal  entirely  from  view,  he  at  length  again  caught 
sight  of  it  by  peering  from  the  height  of  a  pile  of  ice  that  had  been 
thrown  up  by  pressure.  But  before  he  could  come  within  rifle-shot,  he 
was  compelled  to  wind  his  way  through  a  labyrinth  of  high  masses 
of  old  ice  from  the  far  north  which  had  grounded  here.,  and  were 
keeping  the  new  ice  between  them  in  a  dangerous  state  for  traveling 
The  ice  over  which  he  walked  was  covered,  too,  with  crjstals  which 


94  Meteorological  Observations.  [woTember,  is64. 

crisped  so  loudly  under  the  foot  that  he  could  make  his  advance 
only  wliile  the  seal  was  taking-  its  cat-naps,  which  he  found  to  vary 
from  half  a  minute  to  a  minute  each  only;  he  watched  for  these 
very  closely.  To  secure  a  good  position  and  a  support  for  his  rifle,  he 
was  obliged  at  last  to  throw  himself  flat  on  the  ice,  and  hitch  himself 
along,  Eskimo  fashion.  In  this  way  he  got  within  fair  range,  and,  peer- 
ing through  a  crevice  in  the  hummock,  saw  the  seal  shake  its  flippers, 
roll  from  side  to  side,  and  then  drop  its  head  for  what  he  hoped  would 
])e  its  last  nap.  After  taking  careful  aim,  he  thought  for  a  few  seconds 
that  he  surely  had  his  prize ;  but  on  firing,  the  seal  with  one  bound 
plunged  handsomely  through  its  hole  into  the  sea,  leaving  him  only  the 
grim  satisfaction  of  finding  enough  oil  at  the  hole  to  show  that  his  shot 
had  taken  effect.  He  knew  that  unless  a  seal  is  killed  at  the  instant,  it 
is  lost ;  for  it  lies  close  to  its  hole,  and  generally  with  its  head  hanging 
over  the  edge,  ready  for  a  plunge.  A  deep  fissure  in  the  ice  before  him 
prevented  any  further  efforts  in  this  direction. 

The  1st  of  November  was  a  day  of  storm,  the  wind  blowing  a 
gale  and  the  snow  flying  furiously.  Hall  commenced  making  his  me- 
teorological observations  seven  times  a  day.  He  had  previously 
to  this  registered  three  times  onl}^ ; — morning,  noon,  and  night.  He 
now  added  the  hours  3  a.  m.,  9  a.  m.,  3  p.  m.,  and  9  p.  m.  Nine  of  the 
thermometers  presented  to  him  by  Tagliabue,  of  New  York,  were  still 
at  his  command.  They  agreed  well  at  the  higher  temperatures,  but 
below  zero  their  differences  showed  as  much  as  ten  degrees.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  neatly  repairing  his  sextant,  using  the  tube  of  a  broken  ther- 
mometer as  a  blow-pipe  and  some  ''magic  salve"  as  a  flux. 

On  renewing  his  plans  for  the  coming  season,  the  Innuits  pro- 
posed   to  mak(t  ihcir  way  early   to    Iwillik    for  their  own  purposes. 


November,  J 864.]      Tlw  Infiiiits  wUl  (JO  to  lie/pulse  Bay  in  the  Sprhuj. 


95 


The  first  stopping-place  on  their  route  would  be  Oo-koo-isli-c-lik, 
AYag-er  Bay,  where  they  would  l)uild  hjJoos  ;iiid  hunt  tlic  imisk,  tlio 
l)ear,  and  the  seal.  Quite  early  in  the  season  a  passage  could  he  made 
by  boats  along  the  land-ice  to  Kepulse  Bay.  Hall  thought  that  lui 
could  go  on  with  them  to  NeitchiUe,  and  there  learn  the  best  way  of 
advancing  his  original  plans,  which,  however,  he  already  saw  would 
require  length  of  time,  particularly  to  gain  the  sufficienth'  strong  con- 
fidence of  the  Innuits  to  induce  them  to  accompany  him  to  King 
William's  Land.  Ilis  record  says  :  "I  must  not  say  I  will  do  so  and 
so,  but  rather  say  I  will  do  the  work  I  came  to  perform  (God  helping 
me),  take  whatever  time  it  will."  Up  to  the  10th  of  the  month  his 
party  had  opened  but  a  small  part  of  the  provision  brought  from  the 
Monticello,  and  he  had  given  the  'larger  share  of  this,  including  00 
pounds  of  pemmican,  to  his  Innuit  friends.  But  in  turn  he  had  been 
so  generously  feasted  on  reindeer,  that  he  thought  if  he  could  live 
"  one-fifth  as  well "  during  the  remainder  of  his  stay,  he  woidd  have 
nothing  to  complain  of. 


CUP   AND   15ALL. 


(Deposited  at  tlie  Smitlisonian  Institution.) 

The   tribe  was  far   from   lacking  a  natural  love  of  amusement. 
They  had  learned  the  games  of  checkers  and  dominos,  doubtless  from 


tMj 


The  Key-hiv-tik. 


[IVoTember,  lStt4. 


tlie  whalers,  and  it  seemed  possible  to  teach  them  chess.     A  favorite 
game  was  that  of  the  cup  and  ball. 

They  gave  him  an  amusing  exhibition  of  one  of  their  serio-comic 
diversions.  This  was  a  performance  on  the  J^ey-Joiv-tll',  their  bass- 
drum:  the  onlv  musical  instrument  wdiich  he  found  among  them.  The 
instrument  itself,  and  the  changing  characters  from  the  comic  and  gro- 
tesque to  the  serious  and  superstitious,  carried  through  the  perform- 
ances by  both  men  and  women,  are  described  at  some  length. 


JM.AYING   THE    KEY-LOW-TIK. 


The  drum  is  made  from  the  skin  of  the  deer,  which  is  stretched 
over  a  hoo])  made  of  wood,  or  of  bone  from  the  fin  of  a  whale,  by  the 


IVoreiuber,  1S64. 


Preparation  of  the  Kci/-Iow-tik. 


97 


use  of  a  strong"  braided  cord  of  sinew  passed  around  a  groove  on  tlie 
outside.  The  lioo])  is  about  2 J  inches  wide,  IJ  inches  thick,  and  3 
feet  in  diameter,  the  whole  instrument  weigliing  about  4  pounds.  The 
wooden  drumstick,  10  inches  in  length  and  3  in(;hes  in  diameter,  is 
called  a  ken-toon. 


KEY-LOW-TIK. 


Hall  gives,  in  substance,  this  account  of  the  process  of  prepar- 
ing the  key-low-tilx  :  The  deer-skin  which  is  to  be  the  head  of 
the  instrument  is  kept  frozen  when  not  in  use.  It  is  then  thor- 
oughly saturated  with  water,  drawn  over  the  hoop,  and  temporarily 
fastened  in  its  place  by  a  piece  of  sinew.  A  line  of  heavy,  t^yisted, 
sinew,  about  50  feet  long,  is  now  wound  tightly  on  the  groove  on  the 
outside  of  the  hoop,  binding  down  the  skin.  This  cord  is  fastened  to 
the  handle  of  the  key-low-tik,  which  is  made  to  turn  by  the  force  of 
several  men  (while  its  other  end  is  held  firmly),  and  the  line  eased  out 
as  required.  To  do  this  a  man  sits  on  the  bed-platform,  "having  one 
or  two  turns  of  the  line  about  his  body  which  is  incased  in  furred 
deer-skins,  and  empaled  by  four  upright  pieces  of  wood."  Tension  is 
secured  by  using  a  round  stick  of  wood  as  a  lever  on  the  edge  of  the 

skin,  drawing  it  from  beneath  the  cord.     AVhen  any  whirring  sound  is 
S,  Ex.  27 7 


98  Playing  tlie  Key-low-tih.  [ivoTember,  i864. 

heard,  little  whisps  of  reindeer-hair  are  tucked  in  between  the  skin  and 
the  hoop,  until  the  head  is  as  tight  as  a  drum. 

When  the  liey-low-tik  is  played,  the  drum-handle  is  held  in  the  left 
hand  of  the  performer,  who  strikes  the  edge  of  the  rim  opposite  that 
over  which  the  skin  is  stretched.  He  holds  the  drum'in  different  posi- 
tions, but  keeps  it  in  a  constant  fan-like  motion  by  his  hand  and  by 
the  blows  of  the  ken-toon  struck  alternately  on  the  opposite  sides  of 
the  edge.  Skillfully  keeping  the  drum  vibrating  on  the  handle,  he 
accompanies  this  with  grotesque  motions  of  the  bod}^,  and  at  intervals 
with  a  song,  while  the  women  keep  up  their  own  Innuit  songs,  one 
after  another,  through  the  whole  performance. 

At  this  first  exhibition  which  Hall  witnessed  some  twenty-five 
men,  women,  and  children — every  one  who  could  leave  home — assem- 
bled to  see  the  skill  of  the  performers,  who  would  try  the  newly-fin- 
ished instrument.  As  usual,  the  women  sat  on  the  platform,  Turk 
fashion  ;  the  men,  behind  them  with  extended  legs.  The  women  were 
gaily  dressed.  They  wore  on  each  side  of  the  face  an  enormous  pig- 
tail, made  by  wrapping  their  hair  on  a  small  wooden  roller  a  foot  in 
length;  strips  of  reindeer-fur  being  wrapped  with  the  hair.  These 
were  black  and  white  for  those  who  had  sons,  and  black  only  for  those 
who  had  none.  Shining  ornaments  were  worn  on  the  head,  and  on 
the  breast  they  had  masonic-like  aprons,  the  groundwork  of  which  was 
of  a  flaming  red  color,  ornamented  with  glass  beads  of  many  colors. 
Tlie  women  thus  presented  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  dark  visages 
(jf  the  men  in  the  background  ;  while  their  naked  infants  were  playing 
here  and  there  in  a  mother's  lap,  or  peering  out  from  their  nestling 
place  in  a  liood. 

OoJ:-har-loo  was  the  first  performer.     This  young  man  was  a  son 


November,  1S61.]  Playmfj  tJic  Key-Iow-Wc.  99 

of  Ever-at^  whose  picture  is  g-iven  in  Parry's  Narrative  of  his  second 
voyage,  and  who  is  named  by  him  as  helping-  to  draw  one  of  the 
charts.  When  Ook-har-loo  was  tired  out,  Oon-goo-too  took  up  the  licy- 
low  tik,  the  women  striking-  up  for  him  their  second  song.  Ou-e-hi  now 
gave  Hall  a  punch  in  the  side,  which  was  understood  to  mean,  "Just 
see  what  my  people  can  do";  when  tlie  performers,  stripping  off  their 
jackets  to  be  naked  from  their  loins  up,  alternately  dealt  each  other's 
arms  such  fearful  blows  that  Hall  thought  their  very  bones  must  be 
broken,  and  seemed  to  feel  his  own  shoulders  ache.  The  one  who  had 
played  the  key-Iow-tik  the  longer  now  struck  his  blows  without  mit- 
tens, and  Ook-har-loo  ere  long  gave  signs  of  surrender.  The  times 
varied  from  10  to  13  minutes  each. 

Ar-too-a,  Ar-mou,  and  Ou-e-la  followed  as  performers  at  short  in- 
tervals, one  of  them  making  as  high  as  a  hundred  and  sixty  strokes  in 
a  minute  with  the  ken-toon.  Then  Nu-ker-zhoo,  getting  his  hand  under 
the  key-low-tik,  and  dealing  rapid  blows  first  on  one  edge  and  then  on 
the  other,  by  this  jugglery  kept  it  vibrating  in  the  air  and  brought  out 
from  it  the  same  sounds  as  when  played  in  the  usual  way.  Hall,  being 
then  called  out  by  the  house,  tried  his  hand,  but  for  less  than  three 
minutes,  when  the  key-low-tik  was  on  the  floor,  his  arm  and  wrist  ach- 
ing from  the  weight,  and  the  whole  igloo  convulsed  with  laughter. 
Ebierbing  was  called  for,  but  was  too  weak  from  recent  sickness  to 
perform.  Before  this  part  of  the  exhibition  closed,  the  performers 
showed  up  the  differences  in  playing  as  practiced  by  the  neighboring 
tribes. 

The  meeting  now  suddenly  changed  to  one  of  a  serious  character. 
Ook-har-loo,  when  he  resumed  playing,  instantly  extinguished  the  lights, 
leaving  only  the  dim  moon  to  creep  in  through  the  fresh-water-ice 


100  A  Move  to  the  Walrus-Grounds.  [ivoTcmbcr,  ts64. 

window  of  the  ir/Ioo.  He  then  commenced  his  talk  with  the  spirits, 
accompanied  by  clapping-  of  hands,  jumping  up  and  down,  sideways 
and  forwards,  and  then  backing-  out  from  the  igloo  and  returning. 
During  all  this  an-koo-ting  one  and  another  of  the  audience  kept 
repeating  "words  which  seemed  not  unlike  those  of  a  penitent  giving 
in  his  experience  at  a  revival  meeting." 

By  the  middle  of  this  month  the  Innuits  had  finished  their  work 
on  the  reindeer-skins.  Too-ko-li-too  had  labored  for  thirty  days,  fifteen 
hours  out  of  the  twenty-four,  during  which  time,  with  but  little  assist- 
ance from  Ebierbing  even  in  cleaning  the  skins,  she  had  made  up, 
besides  bedding,  seven  complete  fur  suits ;  two  for  Hall,  two  for  her 
husband,  two  for  herself,  and  one  for  Rudolph.  Preparation  was  now 
busily  made  for  moving  off  to  the  walrus-grounds,  the  first  step  toward 
which  was  to  cover  the  sledge-runners  wdth  muck,  a  kind  of  peat 
obtained  from  a  marsh  after  digging  four  feet  through  the  snow  and 
about  a  foot  into  the  frozen  ground.  The  muck  is  saturated  with 
water,  and  a  handful  at  a  time  placed  on  the  runners  at  the  very 
coldest  hour,  to  ice  them.  Several  families  moved  off  on  the  15tli. 
Ebierbing,  who  went  forward  with  them  to  assist  in  erecting  igloos, 
saw  flocks  of  ducks  moving  south.  The  first  huts  which  were  built 
were  four  connected  ones  having  a  common  central  place.  In  Hall's, 
Too-koo-li-too  first  covered  the  snow-bed  place  with  boards,  and  put 
over  these  a  quantity  of  diy  shrubs  and  the  reindeer-furs.  Before 
flail  had  left  his  old  hut,  on  learning  that  the  Innuit  customs  forbade 
the  burning  of  shrubs  in  a  new  home,  he  had  roasted  enough  coffee 
for  a  supply  of  two  months.  And  before  leaving  the  first  igloo  he  had 
made  the  honest  record  in   his  journal,  that  on  a  visit  from  Oii-e-la 


Novonibrr,  1864.)  SuperStiUon.  101 

and  Ar-moH,  they,  with  Ebierbing  and  himself,  indulged  with  great 
freedom  in  the  use  of  Hubbell's  Golden  Bitters,  the  indorsement  on 
which  is,  ''Good  for  dyspepsia."  "Although  the  bitters  were  as  thick 
as  molasses,  it  was  difficult  to  get  it  from  the  bottles  quick  enough  to 
supply  the  demand."  The  next  morning  was  one  of  headache  and 
repentance  to  some  ;  yet  the  natives  declared  they  had  never  been  so 
happy  as  on  the  night  before.  Long  before  this,  however,  ihej  had 
learned  from  the  whalers  to  drink,  smoke,  and  swear. 

On  entering  their  new  igloos  the  Innuits  renewed  their  perform- 
ances of  the  hey-low-tik  and  of  an-'koo-ting.  In  the  latter  of  these 
performances  the  an-ge-ko  (Ar-too-a)  now  made  use  of  three  walrus 
spears.  One  of  these  he  thrust  into  the  wall  of  the  snow-house, 
and,  after  the  usual  accompaniments  which  have  been  already 
described,  ran  with  it  outside  of  the  igloo,  where  his  ejaculations 
were  responded  to  by  the  party  inside  with  the  cries  of  ^^At-teef 
At-teef^  Returning  with  his  spear  to  the  door,  he  had  a  severe 
wrestling  match  with  four  of  the  men,  who  overcame  him.  But 
coming  again  into  the  central  igloo,  and  having  the  lights  which  had 
been  at  the  first  patted  down,  relit,  he  showed  the  points  of  two  spears 
apparently  covered  with  fresh  blood,  which  he  held  up  in  the  pres- 
ence of  all.  Muttering  something  in  a  low  tone  at  them,  he  gave  a 
puff  and  then  wiped  them  clean  with  the  Innuits'  universal  dish-cloth — 
the  tongue.  The  an-ge-JiO  then  recommenced  his  incantations,  address- 
ing for  a  minute  or  so,  with  his  head  erect,  the  Great  Power  above, 
and  then,  with  head  on  the  floor,  the  Spirit  below.  Kneeling  on  Too- 
koo-li-too's  fur  jacket  in  the  center  of  the  hut,  he  kept  this  up  for  a  full 
half  hour.  After  his  exhibition  had  closed.  Hall  learned  that  the  Spirits 
had  revealed  to  the  an-ge-Jco  that  he  and  Ebierbing  must  exchange 


102  Hall    An-kOO-ted.  I November,  1S64. 

wives  for  the  niglit*  This,  Hall  effectually  intervened  to  forbid.  He 
records,  also,  the  clear  testimony  of  the  wife  of  one  of  the  Innnits  in 
behalf  of  Too-koo-li-too  herself  that  she  had  repelled  the  previously 
attempted  efforts  on  the  part  of  the  other  women  to  persuade  her  to 
accept  the  decree. 

In  a  time  of  sickness  during  the  month  Hall  himself  had  been 
prevailed  on  to  be  an-kooted,  and  the  an-ge-ko  had  told  him  that  his 
sickness  had  been  owing  to  his  having  eaten  on  his  first  expedition 
tood-uoo  prepared  in  a  wrong  way,  and  to  the  fact  that  he  had  left  in 
his  own  country  an  enemy  who  had  tried  to  do  him  harm.  When  he 
acknowledged  that  these  two  things  were  true,  the  Innuits  were  much 
pleased  with  the  evidence  of  power  in  their  an-ge-ko^  and  Hall  con- 
sented to  obey  the  decree  given  him,  that  he  should  never  again  wear 
certain  garments  which  had  been  presented  to  him  by  some  of  his 
Innuit  friends. 

During  the  last  days  of  the  month  several  walrus  hunts  were 
entered  upon,  the  first  success  in  which  was  prevented  by  the  poorness 
of  the  seal-skin  lines  which  had  been  made  to  supply  the  loss  of  the 
stronger  ones  missed  some  time  before  from  their  place  of  deposit. 
From  unmistakable  signs  noticed  when  they  had  gone  down  the  coast 
for  these  lines,  the  natives  were  satisfied  that  they  had  been  stolen  by 
some  party  from  one  of  the  whale-ships.     Hall  accompanied  them  on 

*  Heame  says  of  the  Indian  tribes  on  the  Sea  of  the  North :  "It  is  a  very  common  custom 
in  this  country  to  exchange  a  night's  hedging  with  each  other's  -wives ;  l)ut  this  is  so  far  from 
being  considered  criminal  that  it  is  esteemed  one  of  the  strongest  ties  of  friendship  between  the 
two  families  ;  in  case  of  tlie  death  of  either  man  the  other  considers  himself  bound  to  support  the 
cliildren  of  the  deceased.  This  duty  is  never  neglected.  (Heame,  j).  129.)  Father  Veniaminoff, 
a  Russian  priest,  who  labored  among  the  Aleutiaii  tribes,  is  quoted  by  Mr.  Dall  as  saying  that 
formerly  they  i»racticed  frequent  secret  orgies,  and  that  "a  guest  shared  all  marital  rights  ti-ith  Ms 
host."  These  customs,  however,  as  is  well  known,  are  not  exclusively  those  of  the  North  Ameri- 
can tribes. 


December,  1SG4.1  FolloWUKJ    Up    the     WttlniS.  103 

their  hunts,  ahhough  lie  had  been  several  thnes  confined  to  his  i/jloo 
by  a  sore  throat  and  by  bruises  received  on  his  rough  sledge-journeys. 
He  endeavored  to  supply  the  loss  of  the  walrus-lines  by  loaning  the 
sheets  of  his  boat  Sylvia.  A  bear  and  a  number  of  walruses  were 
secured ;  others  which  were  only  struck  on  the  ice  were  lost  during  the 
nightSj  when  they  escaped  by  the  tide  setting  the  floe  back  to  the  land. 
But  the  condition  of  the  ice  was  fine  for  hunting,  and  the  promise  for 
the  season  was  good.  Hall  notices  that  on  each  morning,  after  the 
men  had  gone  off  to  hunt,  their  women  took  each  a  cup  down  to  the 
shore  and  left  it  there  ;  probably  under  the  idea  that  this  would  bring 
success. 

On  the  Gth  of  the  month  following,  Ou-e-la  and  Ebierbing  found 
a  walrus  of  a  large  size  butting  his  head  through  the  ice,  which  was 
4  inches  thick,  with  a  force  sufiicient  to  throw  masses  of  it  several 
feet  into  the  air.  On  a  signal  to  the  other  hunters  they  scattered 
themselves,  watching  for  another  appearance.  The  animal  burst 
through  the  ice  six  times  before  he  was  harpooned  Generally,  when 
pursued,  he  moves  in  a  direct  line,  and  the  natives  are  accustomed 
to  calculate  where  he  will  probably  make  his  second  or  third  rise. 
The  holes  which  he  works  up  through  the  ice  are  sometimes  as  far 
apart  as  100  rods,  but  the  distances  decrease  in  proportion  to  the 
length  of  the  pursuit,  during  which  the  animal  is  often  drowned.  The 
Innuits  sometimes  follow  nearly  the  same  plan  in  drowning  ducks, 
though  this  is  done  when  there  is  no  ice  to  cover  them.  A  flock 
which  is  swimming  is  approached  by  the  hunter  in  a  ky-alc^  when  most 
of  them  take  alarm  and  fly  away,  but  some  dive  down.  The  hunter 
rapidly  follows  in  the  probable  direction  in  which  the  now  submarine 
ducks  are  swimming,  and  the  instant  that  one  appears  above  water,  it 


104  Ou-C-laS    Stories.  fBcccmbcr,  1864. 

is  frightened  down  by  shouts  and  antic  tricks  in  the  way  of  motions. 
This  one  is  selected  as  the  victim  or  prize,  and,  as  the  hunter  gets  near 
it,  he  sees  and  follows  it  through  the  clear  water.  As  often  as  it 
comes  up  to  breathe,  his  shouts  and  motions  follow,  and  thus  the  pur- 
suit is  made  till  finally  the  poor  duck  is  dead.  Hall  remembered  that  in 
1861,  when  making  a  passage  through  the  Beare  Sound  of  Frobisher, 
some  of  his  Innuit  friends  could  not  be  restrained  from  pursuing  this 
sport  till  they  had  deceived  the  ducks  in  the  way  described.  "It 
certainly  is  an  economical  way  to  secure  provision  without  the  use  of 
spears  or  guns." 

On  the  same  day  on  which  the  walrus  was  secured,  several  of  the 
natives  had  a  desperate  encounter  with  a  huge  Polar,  killing  it  while 
three  of  their  dogs  kept  the  animal  at  bay.  One  of  the  lances  which 
had  entered  the  animal,  he  drew  out  with  his  teeth,  and  gave  their 
best  dog  a  terrible  wound,  cutting  through  the  skin  and  flesh  of  his 
neck  as  clean  as  with  a  sharp  knife. 

Ou-e-la,  on  returning  from  these  hunts,  entertained  Hall  with 
some  huge  bear-stories.  With  much  emphasis  he  told  of  a  woman  who, 
a  few  years  before,  had  heard  a  strange  noise  outside  her  igloo,  and  on 
leaving  it,  was  seized  by  a  large  bear,  who  completely  scalped  her  and 
disemboweled  her  child.  An  old  man  in  the  igloo,  although  a  cripple 
in  both  legs,  fastening  a  long  knife  to  the  end  of  a  pole  and  cra^ding 
through  the  narrow  passage-way  of  the  hut  at  the  doorway,  braced 
his  lance  against  the  icy  floor,  when  the  bear,  while  springing  toward 
liis  new  victim,  became  his  own  executioner  by  receiving  the  knife 
directly  through  his  heart.  Ou-e-la  further  said  that  he  had  once, 
single-handed,  killed  a  large  bear  with  a  lance  only;  at  another  time 
lie  had  killed  a  bear  of  equal  size  with  bow  and  arrow,  without   the 


December,  1864.1  ^' TJic  Arc-IaJ^  105 

assistance  even  of  doj^s.  He  liad  seen  a  bear  kill  a  walrus  by  using  a 
piece  of  ice  weighing  more  than  any  one  man  could  lift.  The  bear 
rounds  the  ice  into  a  ball,  and  stealthily  runs  on  his  hind  legs  toward 
his  sleeping  victim ;  if  the  first  blow  on  the  head  of  the  walrus  fails 
to  kill,  he  finishes  his  work  by  repeated  blows  on  the  thick  skull.  He 
contents  himself  with  the  blubber  only,  leaving  the  mass  of  meat  for 
the  fox,  or  for  other  animals  which  may  follow  his  tracks. 

A  peculiar  animal  was  described  to  Hall,  an  account  of  which  is 
scarcely  to  be  found  in  Arctic  books.  The  natives  speak  of  it  as 
being  larger  than  the  bear,  and  as  very  ferocious  and  much  more  diffi- 
cult to  be  killed.  It  has  grayish  hair,  a  long  tail,  and  short,  thick 
legs,  its  fore  feet  being  divided  into  three  parts  like  the  partridge's; 
its  hind  feet  are  like  a  man's  heels.  When  resting,  it  sits  upright  like 
a  man.  A  Neitchille  Innuit,  crawling  into  a  hole  for  shelter  in  the 
night,  had  found  one  sound  asleep  and  quickly  dispatched  it  with  his 
knife.  It  may  be  added  here  that  Ebierbing,  now  residing  in  the 
United  States,  confirms  such  accounts  of  the  '■'■Arc-la,''''  and  says  that 
the  animal  once  inhabited  his  native  country  on  Cumberland  Sound. 

On  the  morning  of  the  10th,  Ebierbing,  Oii-e-Ia,  Ar-too-a,  Ar- 
moii,  Oon-goo-too,  and  Nu-ker-2'hoo,  accompanied  by  Rudolph,  started 
on  two  sledges  with  full  dog-teams  to  visit  the  whaling-vessels  winter- 
ing in  Depot  Island — a  contemplated  trip  which  had  been  deferred 
only  till  the  walrus  season  should  commence.  Rudolph  was  the  hap- 
piest of  the  party.  He  had  proved  of  little  service  to  Hall,  having 
early  become  dissatisfied  with  the  strange  mode  of  life  to  which  his 
employer  had  habituated  himself.  Yet  he  was  at  times  a  voracious 
eater,  consuming  as  much  as  8  pounds  of  solid  food  at  a  meal,  and  then 
complaining  of  a  feeling  of  "gone-ness,"  and  fearing  he  would  starve 


lOG  Budolph   Dismissed.  [December,  ise-i. 

to  death.  A  part  of  the  time  lie  had  been  separately  put  in  charge  of 
one  of  the  natives.  He  now  looked  forward  with  g-reat  satisfaction  to 
resuming  his  life  on  shipboard  and  to  ship-diet  The  parting  was 
friendly.  Hall  gave  him  a  letter  to  the  captain  of  the  Monticello,  ask- 
ing that  he  would  get  a  place  for  him  on  one  of  the  whalers.  Rudolph 
was  also  cautioned  to  have  care  of  himself  on  the  sledge  journey,  and 
the  natives  were  requested  to  see  that  he  should  not  be  frost-bitten. 
At  the  same  time  a  confidential  history  of  Rudolph's  conduct  was  sent 
to  the  ship,  lest  the  man  should  gain  credit  if  he  attempted  to  spread 
misrepresentations  among  the  whalers.  His  dissatisfaction  and  his 
uselessness  to  Hall  had  been  largely  owing  to  his  disease  of  homesick- 
ness and,  during  the  latter  part  of  his  time,  to  an  attack  of  scurvy. 

A  second  letter  to  Captain  Chapel  requested  that  he  would  grant, 
at  Hall's  cost,  whatever  reasonable  requests  the  natives  might  make,  if 
the  value  of  the  articles  asked  for  by  them  sliould  exceed  that  of  the 
skins  and  clothing  taken  down  by  them  for  barter.  Among  the  articles 
for  which  Hall  himself  asked  were  a  gun,  a  spy-glass,  some  walrus- lines, 
and  tobacco,  with  a  loaf  of  bread  and  a  piece  of  butter  for  Too-koo-li- 
too.  He  wanted  50  pounds  of  tobacco,  for  it  went  further  than  any- 
thing else  in  gaining  the  good-will  and  help  of  the  natives.  Ou-e-la 
waited  for  the  dispatches,  which  were  made  up  by  9  a.  m.,  and  then 
overtook  the  sleds  a  mile  in  advance  out  on  the  rough  ice,  where  the 
dogs  were  howling  and  springing  with  all  their  might  to  be  off.  Hall 
went  with  him  that  far,  and  on  parting  gave  Ou-e-la  a  kiss  (Ivo-nik) 
on  his  iron  though  warm  cheek.     The  journal  says : 

TIk;  sun  Ava.s  just  lifting  its  glorious  face  from  the  ice  horizon  of  Ivowe's  Wel- 
come. The  air  was  calm  and  the  temperature  92°  below  freezing-point  by  my  large 
thermometer;  therefore  it  was  dry  and  exhilarating.  The  heavens,  opposite  the 
sun,  were  glowing  in  warm  crimson  clouds,  their  upper  edges  tinted  with  purple 


December,  1864.]  TJic  Natives  Visit  tilt   WkaUrs.  107 

and  silvery  lines.  The  day  througLout  was  the  coldest  of  the  season,  as  the  ther- 
mometer showed,  bnt  not  the  eoldcst  as  far  as  its  effect  npon  the  human  system 
is  concerned.  The  average  of  three  sets  of  observations  on  eight  thermometers 
gave  65°  below  freezing-point  as  the  average  of  the  day.  I  have  tried  some 
experiments,  i)erhaps  too  simple  to  require  record.  I  put  one  of  my  fingers  in 
contact  with  the  brass  plate  of  one  of  the  thermometers;  instantly  I  felt  a  shaq) 
running  sensation ;  in  a  few  seconds  that  part  of  my  flesh  exjiosed  to  the  brass 
plate  was  white  as  snow  and  frozen  solid.  A  smart  rubbing  with  my  other  hand 
soon  took  the  frost  ont,  and  the  finger  was  as  well  as  ever.  I  placed  another 
finger  for  thirty  seconds  in  exposed  mercury ;  the  smarting  at  first  was  severe,  in 
fact,  felt  as  though  the  finger  was  in  a  fire,  but  before  the  thirty  seconds  expired 
the  smarting  ceased,  and  I  felt  noways  disagreeable.  On  taking  my  finger  out 
of  the  mercury,  it  was  frozen  solid  as  a  rock;  a  smart 
persevering  rubbing  again  took  the  frost  out.  I  tried 
several  times  during  the  day  the  experiment  of  keeping 
my  hands  unmittened,  walking  around  thus  for  half  an 
hour  without  their  feeling  very  cold,  and  could  have  con- 
tinued with  my  hands  thus  exjiosed  for  a  longer  time 
had  I  been  on  a  smart  walk,  as  when  traveling  on  a  jour-  ^ 
ney.  When  there  is  no  moisture  in  the  air,  as  to-day,  no  dog-skin  jottens. 
one  would  suppose  the  temperature  as  cold  as  the  thermometers  indicate.  I  have 
felt  colder  in  the  States  with  the  thermometer  32°  than  here  in  my  walks  to-day 
with  hands  and  face  exposed  and  having  no  other  coat  on  but  my  civilization 
(Brevoort)  one. 

The  letter  of  the  most  interest  sent  by  the  natives  to  the  whalers 

reads  as  follows : 

Winter  Quarters,  in  Igloo, 

Noo-WooK,  West  end  Eowe's  Welcome, 
Lat.  640  40'  N.,  Long.  87°  20'  W.,  Friday,  December  10,  1864. 
Dfar  Friend  Chapel:  In  this  letter  I  have  some  deeply  interesting  intelli- 
gence to  communicate  to  you.  Since  falling  in  with  the  natives  I  have  not  been 
idle.  Nothing  in  Parry's  narrative  of  second  voyage  for  the  discovery  of  the  North- 
west Passage  relating  to  the  Eskimos  of  Winter  Island  and  Igloolik  but  these 
natives  are  perfectly  posted  up  in.  Indeed,  I  find  through  my  superior  inteii>re- 
ter,  Too-koo-li-too,  that  many  deeply  interesting  incidents  occurred  at  both-named 
places  that  never  found  their  place  in  Parry's  or  Lyon's  works.  But  the  great  work 
already  done  by  me  is  the  gaining  little  by  little  from  these  natives,  through  Too- 
koo-li-too  and  Ebierbing,  news  relating  to  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition.     This, 


108  Further  Beported  News  of  FranklirCs  Men.       [December,  is«4. 

you  kuow,  wiis  the  great  object  of  my  mission  to  the  Xorth.  I  cannot  stop  to  tell 
you  now  all  I  have  gained  of  this  people — no,  not  the  one  hundredth  part. 
[The  natives  are  now  loading  sledge;  it  is  7  o'clock  30  minutes  a.  m.] 
I  will  give  you  very  briefly  what  the  people  of  England  and  America  wiU  be 
most  interested  to  learn.  When  I  come  down  I  shall  bring  my  disi)atches  and 
journals  up  to  the  time  of  writing  you,  and  these  will  be  committed  to  your  care 
for  transmitting  to  the  States.  The  most  important  matter  that  I  have  acquired 
relates  to  the  fact  that  there  may  yet  be  three  survivors  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
Expedition,  and  one  of  these,  Crozier,  the  one  wOio  succeeded  Sir  John  Franklin 
on  his  death.  The  details  are  deeply  interesting,  but  this  must  suffice  till  I  come 
down:  Crozier  and  three  men  with  him  were  found  by  a  cousin  of  Oue-la  (Albert), 
SJioo-she-ark-nook  (John),  and  Ar-too-a  (Frank),  while  moving  on  the  ice  from  one 
igloo  to  another;  this  cousin  having  with  him  his  family  and  engaged  in  sealing. 
This  occurred  near  Neitchille  (Boothia  Felix  Peninsula).  Crozier  was  nothing 
but  "  skin  and  bones,"  was  nearly  starved  to  death,  while  the  three  men  with  him 
were  fat.  The  cousin  soon  learned  that  the  three  fat  men  had  been  living  on 
human  flesh,  on  the  flesh  of  their  companions  who  all  deserted  the  two  ships  that 
were  fast  in  mountains  of  ice;  while  Crozier  was  the  only  man  that  would  not  eat 
human  flesh,  and  for  this  reason  he  was  almost  dead  from  starvation.  This  cousin, 
who  has  two  names  (but  I  cannot  stop  to  get  them  now),  took  Crozier  and  the 
three  men  at  once  in  charge.  He  soon  caught  a  seal,  and  gave  Crozier  quickly  a 
little — a  very  little  piece,  which  was  raw — only  one  mouthful  the  first  day.  The 
cousin  did  not  give  the  three  fat  men  anything,  for  they  could  well  get  along,  till 
Crozier's  life  was  safe.  The  next  day  the  cousin  gave  Crozier  a  little  larger  piece 
of  same  seal.  By  the  judicious  care  of  this  cousin  for  Crozier,  his  life  was  saved. 
Indeed,  Crozier's  own  judgment  stuck  to  him  in  this  terrible  situation,  for  he  agreed 
with  the  cousin  that  one  little  bit  was  all  he  should  have  the  first  day.  When 
the  cousin  first  saw  Crozier's  face,  it  looked  so  bad — his  eyes  all  sunk  in,  the 
face  so  skeleton-like  and  haggard,  that  he  did  not  dare  to  look  ui^on  Crozier's 
face  for  several  days  after;  it  made  him  feel  so  bad!  This  noble  man,  whom 
the  whole  civilized  world  will  ever  remember  for  humanity,  took  care  of 
Crozier  and  his  three  men,  save  one  who  died,  through  the  whole  winter.  One 
man,  however,  died  a  short  time  after  the  cousin  found  them,  not  because  he 
starved,  but  because  he  was  sick.  In  the  spring,  Crozier  and  the  remaining  two 
men  accompanied  this  cousin  on  the  Boothia  Felix  Peninsula  to  IS^eitchille,  where 
there  were  many  Innuits.  Crozier  and  each  of  his  men  had  guns  and  a  plenty  of 
amuuinitioii,  and  many  pretty  things.  They  killed  a  groat  many  ducks,  nowycrs, 
&c.,  with  their  guns.     Here  they  lived  with  the  Innuits  at  Neitchille,  and  Crozier 


December,  1864.]  HalVs  Letter  to  Chapel.  109 

became  fat  and  of  good  health.  Crozier  told  this  cousin  that  he  was  once  at 
IwillUc  (Repulse  Bay),  at  Winter  Island  and  Igloolik,  many  years  before,  and 
that  at  the  two  last-named  places  he  saw  many  Innuits,  and  got  acquainted  with 
them.  This  cousin  had  heard  of  Parry,  Lyon,  and  Crozier,  from  his  Innuit  friends 
at  Repulse  Bay,  some  years  previous,  and  therefore  when  Crozier  gave  him  his 
name  he  recollected  it.  The  cousin  saw  Crozier  one  year  before  he  found  him  and 
the  three  men,  where  the  two  shij)S  were  in  the  ice.  It  was  there  that  he  found 
out  that  Crozier  had  been  to  Igloolik.     * 

Crozier  and  the  two  men  lived  with  the  Neitchille  Innuits  some  time.  The 
Innuits  liked  him  (C.)  very  much,  and  treated  him  always  very  kindly.  At  length 
Crozier,  with  his  two  men  and  one  Innuit,  who  took  along  a  Id-cik  (!)  [an  India- 
rubber  boat,  as  Ebierbing  thinks  it  was,  for  all  along  the  ribs  there  was  some- 
thing that  could  be  filled  with  air],  left  IsTeitchille  to  try  to  go  to  the  Iwh-lu-na's 
country,  taking  a  south  course. 

When  Ou-ela  (Albert)  and  his  brothers,  in  1854,  saw  this  cousin  that  had 

been  so  good  to  Crozier  and  his  men,  at  Pelly  Bay  which  is  not  far  from  Xeitch- 

ille,  the  cousin  had  not  heard  whether  Crozier  and  the  two  men  and  l^eitchille 

Innuit  had  ever  come  back  or  not.    The  Innuits  never  think  they  are  dead — do 

not  believe  they  are.    Crozier  offered  to  give  his  gun  to  the  cousin  for  saving  his 

life,  but  he  would  not  accept  it,  for  he  was  afraid  it  would  kill  him,  it  made  such 

a  great  noise,  and  killed  everything  with  nothing.    Then  Crozier  gave  him  a 

long,  curious  knife  (sword,  as  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too  say  it  was),  and  many 

pretty  things  besides.     [The  dogs  are  aU  in  harness,  and  sledges  loaded,  and 

Innuits  waiting  for  my  letters.     I  promise  to  be  ready  in  30  minutes.]     Crozier 

told  the  cousin  of  a  fight  with  a  band  of  Indians — not  Innuits,  but  Indians.    This 

must  have  occurred  near  the  entrance  of  Great  Fish  or  Back's  River.    More  of 

this  when  I  see  you.        *        *        * 

God  bless  you. 

C.  F.  HALL. 

This  unusually  ill-written  letter  is  quoted  almost  literally  in  order 

to  show  Hall's  excited  state  of  mind  on  receiving  some  of  the  earliest 

of  what  he  then   believed  to  be  news  of  Franklin's  party.     It  will 

appear  in  the  latter  part  of  the  Narrative  that  the  "cousin,"  so  much 

spoken  of,  was  found  by  Hall  to  have  been  far  less  useful  or  humane 

to  Crozier  than  is  here  noted.     Hall's  readiness  to  believe  everything 

heard  from  the  natives  on  his  first  acquaintance  with  them  was  largely 


110  Superstitions.  fDecembt^r,  1864. 

corrected  by  his  further  experieiice.  At  first  he  seems  to  have  beheved 
^hat  he  wished  to  believe.  But  his  later  journals  record  a  number 
of  coiTected  judgments,  always  frankly  entered,  and  even  against 
liimself 

Nearly  all  the  men  were  now  absent  from  the  settlement.  After  one 
unsuccessful  attempt  made  by  some  of  the  natives  who  remained,  to 
secure  a  walrus  where  the  ice  was  found  too  thick  for  the  animal  to  break 
through,  a  second  effort  was  rewarded  by  their  capturing  the  larger 
part  of  one,  the  remainder  being  lost  by  the  ice-floes  coming  together 
and  massing  upon  it.  They  had  resumed  their  hunt  in  consequence  of 
having  seen,  the  night  before,  "  a  walrus  springing  right  up  through 
the  ice-floor  of  their  igloo^^; — to  them  a  sure  sign  of  success. 

Another  instance  of  their  low  superstitious  customs  was  thus 
shown  :  The  pale-face,  having  expressed  a  desire  for  a  change  of  food, 
was  presented  with  the  head  and  neck  of  a  reindeer,  for  fear  that  there 
would  be  great  trouble  in  catching  a  walrus ;  but  this  provision  could 
be  placed  neither  on  the  floor  nor  behind  the  lamps  on  the  platform, 
nor  could  it  be  either  cooked  or  eaten  with  walrus-oil  or  on  the  same 
day  with  walrus-meat.  Pieces  of  the  frozen  mass  were,  therefore, 
chipped  off  on  the  bed-platform  with  carefulness  that  not  one  should 
fall  upon  the  floor,  and  they  were  dipped  in  old  rancid  seal-oil  before 
being  eaten.  Four  quarts  of  walrus-oil  were  at  the  same  time  jore- 
sented  to  Hall  for  his  hunp. 

A  leaf  from  Hall's  journal  of  the  18th,  written  on  receiving  this 

present,  will  further  show  the  care  which  he  exercised  in  subjecting 

himself  to  the  low  superstitions  of  the  tribe: 

Krh-ltt-a  eaiiic  in  bring:inf(  in  bcr  arms  the  licad  and  neck  (raw,  solid,  and 
frozen)  of  a  iciiidccr  tor  iiic,  as  slie  lioaid  that  1  wanted  a  change  from  wakus- 


December,  1864.J  SuperstitionS.  Ill 

meat.  Tliis  venison  had  to  be  completely  enveloped  before  it  could  be  brought 
into  the  U/loo,  and,  when  in,  could  only  be  placed  on  the  bed -plat  form.  To  have 
placed  it  on  the  floor  or  on  the  platform  behind  the  lire-lamp,  among  the  -svalrus, 
musk-ox,  and  polar-bear  meat  which  occupy  a  goodly  portion  of  both  of  these 
places,  would  have  horrified  the  whole  town,  as,  according  to  the  actual  belief  of 
the  lunuits,  not  another  wabus  could  be  secured  this  year,  and  there  would  ever 
be  trouble  in  capturing  any  more. 

Old  Mother  OoJc-bar-loo  and  the  son  of  Erl-tti-a  were  both  in  my  igloo  at 
the  time  this  present  was  made.  Both  these  parties  are,  of  course,  greatly 
devoted  to  having  everything  according  to  the  way  of  old — in  other  words, 
according  to  the  custom  of  their  fathers  and  many  preceding  generations.  They 
watched  my  every  movement ;  but  I  was  no  small  adept  in  this  matter,  so  I  pro- 
ceeded to  gratify  the  calls  of  a  hungry  stomach  in  the  following  manner :  I  first 
unveiled  ErTi-tu-ah  gift  on  the  very  spot  where  she  had  placed  it,  and  called  for  a 
hatchet.  Frozen  chips  of  meat  now  flew  to  the  right  and  left,  ivesticard;  not  one 
toward  the  floor.  I  had  to  be  very,  very  cautious  about  that.  These  chips  of  raw 
frozen  venison,  when  gathered  up,  made  quite  a  pile  for  my  breakfast.  A  cuj)  of 
oil  in  which  to  sop  these  chips  was  soon  near  me.  Then  I  proceeded,  just  as  any 
Innuit  would,  to  eat  a  hearty  meal!  The  oil  which  I  used  as  the  sop  was  seal-oil, 
rancid  and  stinking.  According  to  Innuit  custom,  walrus-blubber,  or  oil  from 
it,  cannot  be  used  on  any  account  with  tood-noo  meat.  Notwithstanding  the  oil 
I  used  was  of  the  condition  I  describe,  yet  I  must  state  the  truth  that  I  have 
really  got  so  far  along  in  Innuits  taste  to  like  it  thus,  and  to  like  it  very  much. 

Particles  of  meat  that  were  scattered  around  on  the  bed-platform  during  my 
carving  operations  with  the  hatchet  could  not  be  brushed  on  the  floor,  as  this 
would  have  brought  down  the  indignation  of  my  houseful  of  visitors.  The  toolc- 
too  skins  on  which  these  fine  dust  pieces  were  had  to  be  taken  uji  and  shaken  at 
the  farther  end  or  back  side  of  the  bed-place,  next  to  the  wall  of  the  igloo.  In 
this  way,  and  in  this  wo.y  only,  could  the  meat  particles,  including  even  such  snow 
and  ice  as  had  been  jammed  off  the  neck  and  head,  be  disposed  of  to  the  satisfiic- 
tion  of  an  honest,  kind-hearted,  but  superstitious  people. 

The  head  of  this  gift,  I  regret  to  learn,  cannot  be  cooked  now,  though  from 
it  I  could  have  a  delicious  soup.  The  whys  and  wherefores  are  that  it  would 
make  trouble  among  the  walrus.  It  can  be  done  after  the  walrusing  season  is 
over,  and  any  time  before  it  begins  again. 

This  Erk-tu-a  was  one  of  the  visitors  to  the  ships  of  Parry  and 

Lyon  on  then-  Second  Expedition,  1821  to  1823.     She  gave  Hall  the 


112  Oo-oo-took  on  Parry's  Ship,  1824.         [December,  i864. 

Innuit  tradition  of  a  punishment  mentioned  in  Pany's  Narrative  as 
administered  for  theft,  wliich  story  is  an  illustration  of  the  power  of 
superstitious  belief  held  hj  this  people  in  their  an-ge-ho  ; — or,  as  this 
word  was  pronounced  at  Ig-loo-lik,  where  Parry  was,  an-nat-ko.  Oo- 
oo-took,  a  superior  an-nat-ko,  was  charged  by  Parry  when  at  Ig-loo-lik 
with  the  crime  of  theft  for  taking  a  shovel,  or  a  part  of  one,  from  along- 
side of  the  ship.  Parry  had  him  taken  to  a  place  between  decks,  and 
his  hands  firmly  lashed  up  to  the  mast.  Then  two  guns  were  loaded 
and  fired  at  him.  The  balls  did  not  hit  him,  but  one  passed  close  to 
his  head  and  lodged  in  the  mast.  The  other  ball  went  close  to  his 
loins,  but  did  not  injure  him.  The  guns  were  so  near  his  body  that 
the  powder  felt  hot.  Parry  fired  one  of  the  guns,  and  came  very  near 
killing  himself,  the  ball  glancing  and  rebounding  in  such  a  way  that  it 
passed  close  to  his  head.  Another  gun  was  about  to  be  used  in  firing 
at  Oo-oo-took,  but  it  was  found  to  be  cracked  (both  barrel  and  stock), 
and,  therefore,  it  was  laid  aside.  Then  Parry  caused  him  to  be 
whipped  with  something  that  was  made  of  ropes  with  knots  in  them — 
cat-o'-nine-tails.  The  Innuits  standing  around  and  witnessing  all  this 
wanted  to  help  Oo-oo-took  defend  himself,  but  he  said:  "Let  the  Kob- 
lu-nas  ivy  to  kill  me  ;  they  cannot,  for  I  am  an  an-nat-koy  Then  Oo- 
oo-took^s  hands  were  untied,  after  which  the  koh-lu-nas  tried  to  cut  his 
head  and  hands  off  with  long  knives — probably  swords.  Every  time 
a  blow  was  struck,  the  extreme  end  of  the  knife  came  close  to  Oo-oo- 
took\s  throat ;  occasionally  the  blade  came  just  above  the  crown  of  his 
head,  and  when  the  attempt  was  made  to  cut  off  his  hands  the  long 
knife  came  down  very  near  his  wrists ;  but,  after  all,  he  was  uninjured 
because  he  icas  a  very  good  An-nat-ko.,  Some  of  the  blows,  however,  did 
execution,   cutting   deep   gashes  in  throat,  head,  and  wrists ;    but  at 


occcuibcr,  1864.]  Oo-00-took  OH  Viimjs  SMp,   1824.  11 U 

each  stroke,  as  the  knife  was  Hfted,  the  wounds  instantly  healed  wp,  the 
cm-nat-ko  being  made  whole  by  the  Good  Spirit  who  protected  him. 

When  Oo-oo-took  was  permitted  to  go  on  deck,  he  attempted  to  go 
ashore.  He  was  passing  out  of  the  gangway  when  four  men  seized 
him  ;  l)ut  during  the  struggle  to  free  himself  from  further  punishment, 
lie  kicked  one  koh-lu-na  down  the  snow-steps,  which  fall  nearly  killed 
him,  and  the  kob-lu-na  suffered  with  a  lame  back  for  a  long  time. 
Finally,  the  koh-lu-na  conquered  him  and  })ut  him  down  between 
decks,  in  a  cold,  dark  place,  where  he  kept  him  two  days  and  two 
nights,  but  while  so  confined,  one  good  kob-lu-na.,  in  a  very  sly  wa}^ 
gave  him  something  to  eat ;  otherwise  he  had  nothing  to  eat  or 
drink. 

After  Oo-oo-took  had  been  one  day  and  one  night  in  the  dark  hole, 
he  thought  he  would  use  his  power  as  an  an-nat-ko,  and  destroy  the 
vessel  by  splitting  it  through  the  middle  from  stem  to  stern.  So  he 
commenced  calling  to  his  aid  the  Good  Spirit,  when  a  great  cracking- 
noise  was  made,  now  and  then,  under  the  ship,  and  at  the  end  of  the 
two  days  and  two  nights'  confinement,  the  koh-lu-naSj  fearing  from 
such  great  and  terrific  noises  that  the  ship  would  be  destroyed,  let 
Oo-oo-took  go. 

This  tradition,  which  Hall  says  was  believed  l)y  all  the  other  In- 
nuits  around  him,  is  in  rather  curious  contrast  with  the  account  given 
by  Parry  himself,  which  is  as  follows  :     [Official  Narrative,  p.  412.] 

The  delinquent  was,  therefore,  put  down  into  the  Fury's  store-room  passage 
and  closely  confined  there  for  several  hours ;  when,  having  collected  several  of 
the  natives  on  board  the  Fury,  I  ordered  him  to  be  strii)ped  and  seized  u])  in 
their  i)resence,  and  to  receive  a  dozen  lashes  on  the  back  witli  a  cat-o'-niue-tails. 
The  instant  this  was  over,  his  countrymen  called  out,  "  Tt-wm «,  ii-mun-na'''' — 
S.  Ex.  27^—8 


114  Hall  Corrects  his  Dates.  [o^cembfr,  in64. 

that's  ri<ilit,  that's  v'vj([\X ;  and  seriiied  imich  relieved  Irom  the  fright  they  liad  bel'orc 
been  in  while  the  late  of  the  thief  seemed  doubtful;  but  in  three  minutes  after, 
not  one  of  them  wa«  to  be  found  uear  the  ships,  for  they  hurried  off  to  the  huts 
as  fast  as  their  legs  aud  sledges  eould  carry  them.  The  example  proved  Just 
what  we  desii*ed ;  in  less  than  eight  aud  forty  hours,  men,  women,  and  chihlreu 
came  to  the  ships  with  the  same  contidence  as  before,  always  abusing  Oo-oo-took, 
pronouncing  themselves  and  us  uncommonly  good  people,  but  evidently  more 
cautious  than  before  of  really  iucurriug  our  displeasure  The  occurrence  just 
related,  instead  of  being  placed  to  the  account  of  these  i)eople's  bad  propensi- 
ties, rather  served  to  remind  us  of  the  rareness  of  such  occurrences,  and,  there- 
fore, to  fnrnish  fresh  proof  of  their  general  honesty. 

From  a  conversation  held  about  this  time,  through  Too-koo-U- 
too  as  interpreter.  Hall  believed  that  he  had  gained  the  key  to  the 
fact  mentioned  by  Dr.  Rae  in  his  report  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany in  1854,  that  the  natives  at  Pelly  Bay  had  great  objections 
to  his  party  traveling  across  the  country  in  a  westerly  direction, 
and  had  attempted  to  puzzle  and  mislead  the  interpreter.  Hall  was 
told  that  "  some  of  the  Innuits  with  whom  he  was  wintering,  had  tried, 
together  ^vitli  others  from  Pelly  Bay,  to  persuade  Dr.  Rae  to  go  to 
Shartoo,  an  island  in  Akkoolee  Bay  (the  island  called  Prince  of  Wales 
Island,  and  the  bay,  Committee  Bay,  in  Dr.  Rae's  chart),  where  he 
would  find  spars,  rigging,  casks,  and  boxes,  and  perhaps  the  hulk  of  a 
vessel.  They  understood  from  him  that  tliese  were  the  very  things 
he  ANas  looking  for."  The  Innuits,  therefore,  professed  that  the  objec- 
tions referred  to  had  been  made  in  good  faith,  and  in  order  to  lead 
Rae's  party  to  the  best  locality. 

On  the  28d,  Hall  discovered  that  he  had  lost  a  day  in  his  reckon- 
ing. JIo  h;id  not  confided  in  liis  dates  for  some  time  back,  but  now 
loimd  the  means  for  a  correction.  Going  to  tlic  top  of  a  hill  to 
see  tlic  sun   rise  at  10   a.    m.,   he   saw   it   about    a   diameter   and    a 


i>4-ci-iubcr,  i8«4.]  Gifts  Received  from  the   Whalers.  1 1 5 

half  from  the  horizon,  above  a  low,  thick  bank  of  frost-smoke  which 
hung  over  the  sea-ice.  Through  the  upper  margin  of  the  frost-smoke 
tlie  true  sun  was  clearly  seen  without  any  dazzling  rays;  but,  above, 
two  mock-suns  showed  themselves  with  a  brilliancy  overpowering  the 
eye.  With  his  pocket  sextant  he  measured  the  angular  distance 
between  the  nearest  limbs  of  the  sun  and  the  moon,  and  found  it  to  be 
jipproximately  62°  30';  which  he  verified  by  the  use  of  his  larger 
sextant.  His  table  of  lunar  distances  in  the  Nautical  Almanac 
showed  this  as  the  true  distance  for  December  23d  in  place  of  the  22d, 
as  he  had  at  first  supposed  the  day  to  be.  Looking  over  his  journal, 
he  discovered  that  the  lost  day  could  be  accounted  for  by  the  want 
of  all  notes  on  one  of  his  sick  days,  November  25. 

The  sledge  party  now  returned,  and  were  heartily  welcomed  as 
soon  as  their  very  quiet  entrance  was  noticed.  One  of  the  sleds  hav- 
ing become  unmanageable  by  the  breaking  off  of  the  muck-shoeing, 
the  dogs  had  found  it  hard  work  to  draw  the  heavy  return  load  of 
natives  and  goods  piled  up  on  the  other  one;  their  fatigue  had  pre- 
vented the  howling  usual  on  their  approaching  home. 

Two  chests  and  a  box,  directed  to  Hall,  were  soon  slid  along 
through  the  snow  passage-wa)^  into  his  igloo.  They  contained  a 
variety  of  donations  from  Captains  Chapel,  of  the  Monticello;  Rogers, 
of  the  Concordia;  White,  of  the  Black  Eagle;  Tyson,  of  the  Ante- 
lope, and  Jeffries,  of  the  George  and  Mary.  Besides  the  very  wel- 
come provision  which  made  up  the  mass  of  these  gifts,  a  quantity  of 
different-colored  beads  and  brass  ornaments  for  the  head  had  been 
sent  as  presents  to  the  women,  together  with  some  articles  to  be 
exchanged  for  furs.  In  his  record  of  the  day,  which  not  unfrequently 
is  found  written  as  though  it  were  a  letter  to  his  two  ucvci- forgotten 


116  The  Inmiits  Fond  of  Ardent  Spirits.       [December,  i864. 

friends,  the  following  expressions  show  his  appreciation  of  the  change 

in  diet  now  experienced : 

O,  my  detir  Mr.  Griuuell  and  Mr.  Brevoort,  wluit  a  glorious  supper  we  bavo 
liad  to-uigbt;  a  cluiuge  now  and  then  in  bis  food  is  wbat  a  wbite  man  likes.  In- 
deed, tbe  Innuits  tbemselves  like  a  cbange  from  their  food  to  that  of  civilization 
after  getting  a  little  accustomed  to  it. 

The  journal  of  the  24th  contains  the  record  of  a  second  indul- 
gence to  the  natives  in  his  serving-  out  to  all  who  had  assisted  in  build- 
ing  his  new  igloo  a  quantity  of  Bourbon  whisky,  diluted  with  hot  water 
and  sweetened  with  sugar.  This  was  dealt  out  contrary  to  his  previous 
resolutions,  but  under  the  idea  that,  as  they  had  acquired  a  taste  for  it 
from  the  whalers,  it  would  be  of  service  to  him  to  indulge  them  occa- 
sionally. He  adds:  ''I  have  found  that  I  can  do  without  liquor,  and  I 
do  not  touch  a  drop  of  anything  stronger  than  tea  or  coffee.  I  will  not 
say  the  Innuits  shall  not  have  a  few  drops  once  in  two  or  three  weeks, 
but  the  quantity  to  each  shall  be  very  small." 

The  sledge  journey  to  the  ships,  135  miles  distant,  had  been  made 
in  ninety -nine  hours,  and  the  return  journey  in  seventy-eight;  allow- 
ing, as  did  Ebierbing,  one  of  the  party,  one-half  of  the  time  on  their 
return  as  spent  in  stoppages,  the  average  distance  traveled  had  been 
about  three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour.  Captain  Chapel  sent  back  to 
Hall  a  letter  of  cordial  good  feeling,  offering  him  further  assistance. 
It  has  been  already  noticed  as  a  fact,  well  known  in  New  London, 
that  the  whalers  wintering  in  this  region  understood  the  instructions 
of  their  employers  as  authorizing  them  to  assist  him  very  freely. 

Chapel's  letter,  in  speaking  of  the  temperature  where  he  was  win- 
tering, said : 

Tbe  mcrcuiy  lias  been  from  36°  to  56°  below  zero  for  tbe  last  fifteen  days. 
The  ;^l;iss  lias  ii«)t  l>eeM  al>()ve  —.'W'^' for  twenty  days,  and  Ibc  large  spirit  (liei- 


I 


I 


occcnibcr,  1S64.]  DccYce  oftlic  An-gc-ho.  117 

moiiietcr  you  gave  mc,  and  in  wliicli  I  put  so  much  confidence,  has  been  frozen 
for  three  Avceko.  It  froze  with  the  mercury  at  —  30°,  and  wlien  the  mercury  stood 
at  340  below,  the  spirit  was  100°  below.  This  would  suri)rise  our  New  Yorlc 
friends  if  we  should  tell  theuj.* 

An  invitation  having  been  given  to  the  men  while  visiting  the  ships 
that  thoy  should  return  and  bring  their  wives  with  them,  Ilall  was 
glad  to  find  that,  at  the  next  an-koot-ing,  the  an-gc-ko  announced  an 
order  from  the  Good  Spirit  that  these  visits  should  not  be  made,  lest 
death  after  death  should  occur  in  the  tribe.  In  addition  to  other  plain 
reasons  for  his  being  gratified  at  this  decree,  there  was  now  a  better 
hope  that  the  whole  party  would  move  early  in  the  spring  to  Repulse 
Bay.  He  felt  sure  that  his  further  plans,  which  depended  on  this, 
would  be  defeated  if  these  visits  were  made. 

On  the  25th,  he  took  a  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun,  and  found 
the  true  altitude  to  be  1*^  51';  the  observed  lowest  limb  to  sea-ice 
horizon,  '2°.  The  observation  was  made  from  an  elevation  30  feet 
above  the  sea-level.  Although  the  sun  was  quite  too  low  for  reliable 
work,  yet  the  Latitude  found  by  working  up  the  observation  was  64° 
43'  45",  an  approximation  he  little  expected,  as  the  true  latitude  is  64° 
46'  20". 

On  the  26th,  he  went  out  with  the  natives  on  a  walrus-hunt,  to 
observe  the  movements  of  the  ice  in  the  Welcome  as  well  as  to  see  the 
walrus  and  the  hunters  The  following  account  of  the  hunt  is  largely 
condensed  from  his  own  notes  : 

At  8  a.  m.  he  left  his  igloo,  leading  by  a  long  trace-line  one  of 

*Iu  coimcctiou  with  notes  of  like  extreme  temperatures  and  the  unreliability  of  both  nier- 
cuvial  and  spirit  thermometers,  see  "The  last  of  the  Arctic  Voyages,"  by  Sir  Edward  Bolclu'r, 
185.''),  pp.  205-208;  also,  notes  of  a  like  character  in  other  Arctic  Narratives,  including  Sir  George 
Nares'  "Voyage  to  the  Polar  Sea."  Hall's  own  journal  has  a  number  of  such  records;  also  of  his 
repeated  regrets  that  he  had  other  than  standard  instruments  with  him. 


118  The     Walrus-Hunt.  [December,  1S64. 

tlie  large  dogs  which  were  to  be  employed  in  dragging  the  wah-iis 
home ;  several  other  dogs  were  led  by  the  Innuits,  but  by  far  the 
larger  number  were  allowed  to  run  loose,  preceding  or  following  the 
hunters.  The  distance  to  the  walrus-grounds  had  been  for  some  time 
constantly  increasing  as  the  land-floe  widened,  and  the  animals,  accord- 
ingly, shifted  their  feeding-grounds  to  the  new  ice  or  to  the  fissures 
near  its  edge.  Having  crossed  the  half-mile  belt  of  very  rough  ice 
near  the  coast,  and  advanced  about  six  miles,  Hall  came  to  this  edge. 
A  breeze  from  the  north  was  driving  the  floe  to  the  southward  at  the 
speed  of  a  quick  walk,  and  as  it  pressed  heavily  on  the  edge  of  the 
fixed  ice,  the  noise  was  so  terrible  that  he  was  at  times  forced  to  draw 
himself  back  several  paces  from  the  point  to  which  he  had  ventured. 
For  scores  of  miles  to  the  north  and  south,  the  drifting  floe  was  grind- 
ing its  uneven  face  against  the  firm  but  jagged  front  on  which  he 
stood.  Mounting  a  high  ridge  of  ice,  he  saw,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach  seaward  and  up  and  down  the  Welcome,  a  boundless  field  slowly 
moving  onward  toward  the  south,  but  crushing  to  atoms  miles  and 
miles  of  massive  ice  ;  now  rearing  up  mountains  on  mountains,  now 
plowing  up  acres  into  high  ridges. 

Ou-c-Ia,  who  had  joined  him,  was  unable  to  reach  a  large  walrus 
which  rose  in  a  small  water-space  five  fathoms  ofl",  for  the  "  squeezed, 
rolling,  craunching  mass"  was  working  between  the  floes.  He  gave 
a  quick  signal  to  those  on  the  drifting  floe,  and  Ar-mou  and  Ar-too-a 
run  rapidly  toward  the  walrus;  but  just  ^?>  Ar-mou  had  his  harpoon 
raised,  the  animal  disappeared  in  the  water.  Hall  and  Ou-c-la  then 
directed  their  steps  toward  the  loose  pack  which  the  others  had  already 
gained,  to  reach  which  the  sharp  eye  of  the  Innuit  quickly  discovered 
the  only  possible  crossing.     A  quick  run,  a  few  steps  over  sludge  and 


Dccriubrr,  1864.J 


The   Walnis-IIimt. 


ll'J 


powdered  ice,  a  leap  from  this  tumbling  block  to  tliat  one,  and 
a  final  leap  to  the  driving-  floe,  brought  the  two  safel}'  (►ver. 

Walruses  could  now  be  seen  in  every  direction;  sonic  lint- 
ting  up  ice-fragments  from  the  solid  main  ;  some  with  their 
heads  through  the  butted  holes ;  some  with  a  large  ])art  of  the 
body  above  the  ice.  The  hunters  were  busily  at  work.  In  one 
direction  two  Innuits  Avere  under  full  lun  for 
the  same  blowing  walrus,  the  dogs  running 
around  them.  All  at  once  these  hunters 
stopped,  for  the  animal  had  taken  the  alarm 
and  gone  down.  In  another  direction  an  ex- 
cited group  were  seen,  one  throwing  the  lance, 
another  holding  on  a  line,  one  jumping  this  way 
and  another  that,  for  a  walrus  appeared  to  be 

w 

o 
p 
p- 

p 
p. 


B. — Joint  ^vitll  thongs 
loosened,  when  not 
in  use,  to  preserve 
their  elasticity. 


C  — Knoll  on  thr  lian- 
(11(1  to  secure  a  firm 
hold. 


a  secured  prize.     With  some  difficulty  Hall  gained  this  spot,  l)nt  found 


120  A  Death- Struggle.  [Dccrmbrr,  is64. 

only  one  Iiiiiiiit  remaining,  while  the  reddened  ice  and  the  hole 
showed  a  severe  conflict.  Shoo-she-ark-nook  had  harpooned  a  very 
large  walrus,  and  he  and  Ebierbing  had  lanced  it  until  it  was  almost 
dead.  The  har})oon,  however,  slipped  out  and  the  animal  esca})ed, 
Ebierbing  losing  his  lance-head. 

An  extensive  floe  of  the  "  walrusing-ice"  was  now  seen  shooting 
over  the  ice  on  which  they  stood,  and  advancing  from  the  north  at  the 
s])eed  of  a  moderate  walk  ;  its  thickness  was  two  inches,  the  same  as 
tliat  on  which  they  stood.  They  were  two  miles  from  the  land-floe, 
upon  ice  which  bent  like  leather  at  every  step,  often  yielding  two  or 
three  inches  without  a  fracture,  and  it  would  not  do  to  remain  at  rest 
on  such  ice.  They  were  compelled  to  be  constantly  in  motion,  as  the 
situation  demanded. 

Hall  hastened  to  a  second  group  of  Innuits  who  were  as  busily 
occupied  as  the  first,  and  in  a  few  moments  found  himself  pulling 
away  witli  others  on  a  line  which  was  fast  to  a  large  walrus.  After  a 
few  ])ulls,  the  half-killed  animal  came  up  in  a  flouncing,  tumbling  way. 
lie  was  furiousl}'  mad.  He  had  not  only  been  harpooned,  but  lanced 
and  lanced  again  and  again,  so  that  at  every  blow,  quarts  of  thick, 
dark  blood  were  thrown  up,  scattering  itself  about,  painting  the  ice, 
the  dogs,  and  tlio  party  with  a  crimson  hue. 

Wliat  a  lioirilic  lookinj;-  creature  a  walrus  is,  especially  in  the  face! 
It  looks  \vick('<l,  <letestal)ly  bad.  Indeed,  a  devil  incarnate  could  not  have  a 
more  rei)ulsive  look  to  Turk  or  Christian.  A  hard  death  did  this  one  die.  He 
l<»u;;ht  de.si)erately,  but  steel  and  sinewy  arms,  under  the  control  of  cool,  couraf-e- 
oiis  liearts,  finally  conquered.  As  often  as  he  came  up  to  blow,  he  was  met  by  the 
hmee  of  the  harpooner,  who  thrust  it  quick  and  deep  into  the  heart  and  churned 
away  until  the  walins  withdrew  by  diving  under  the  ice  and  ili)»peiiiii;-  away  to 
the  Itii^tli  of  the  line,  'i'licii.  at  each  new  ap])earaiiee,  he  woidd  lasleii  his  lonj;' 
i\»»r\  liisk  (one  liad   liccii   Itiokcn  olV,  jjiobably  in  some  lij^lil)  ujiuii  Ijic  ednc  of 


December,  1864.] 


Securing  the  Prize. 


121 


the  ice,  and  turning  liis  oyos  around  would  si>end  liis  fury  on  tlic  first  of  his  ene- 
mies who  approached.  He  tlien  aj;ain  liipjx'n'd  back,  and,  as  the  iipliltcd  laiicc 
was  poised,  moved  violently  forward  and  upward,  throwin*,^  forward  liis  head 
with  a  circling  sweep,  as  if  to  drive  his  tusk  to  the  very  heart  of  his  iissailaiit. 


What  a  terrible  blow  a  walrus  can  deal  with  his  liead  and  tusks !  W'Wn  he 
came  up  to  breathe,  wdiicli  ho  did  several  times  through  difterent  holes,  resting 
with  his  tusk  hooked  onto  the  edge  of  the  ice,  at  every  breathing  he  expelled 


122 


Disposal  of  the   Walrus. 


[December,  1864. 


tliiouiih  liis  wliite-wallod  moutli  a  frightful  Stream  of  hot  life-blood,  and  as  the 
hungry  dogs  rushed  u])  iearlessly  to  the  very  i'ouutain  Avhence  the  luscious,  sa- 
vory gore  issued,  the  dying  walrus  quickly  raised  his  head  and  struck  it  forward 
Avith  tremendous  force,  though  to  little  purpose,  as  the  dogs  were  too  quick  dodg- 
ing the  bloAvs.  Shoo-shc-((rl--7iooJv-  at  last  cut  a  gash  in  the  neck  with  his  pelond 
(long  knife)  and  thrust  the  point  into  the  very  marrow  of  the  spine. 

A  fresh  opening  was  now  made  in  the  ice,  and  to  this  the  carcass 
was  towed.  Then  the  hne,  made  fast  to  the  tough  skin  on  the  nose, 
was  taken  to  the  point  of  a  small  hummock  five  fathoms  distant,  and 
back  again  through  a  hole  in  the  same  tough  skin.  With  this  pur- 
chase, five  of  the  party  pulled  away  on  the  line,  gradually  sliding  the 
carcass  upon  the  ice.     It  weighed  about  2,200  pounds. 

This  done,  each  In- 
nuit  sprang  to  the  task  of 
cutting  open  the  carcass  from 
head  to  tail,  that  it  might 
cover  over  as  large  an  area 
as  possible  on  the  ice.  Yet 
the  moment  they  commenced 
to  haul  up,  the  ice  began  to 
bend,  and  by  the  time  the 
walrus  was  disemboweled,  the  water  covered  it  G  inches  deep.  He 
was  now  cut  up,  longitudinally,  into  three  parts,  without  being 
skinned,  and  wliile  this  cutting  was  going  on,  the  dogs  acted  like  so 
many  devils,  and  it  was  impossible,  even  with  a  spear,  to  keep  them 
away  from  tlio  blood  and  flesh.  The  backbone,  the  lights,  and  a  small 
])nrti<m  of  tlie  entrails  only  were  thrown  away.  The  edges  of  the 
lonultudlnal  parts  were  then  placed  together  by  lines,  to  give  each 
mass  a  )-ound('(l  shape.      The  paunch  accidentally  fell  in  the  water, 


IIKAU    OF   A   WALRUS. 


orceuibcr,  1864.]  TJw  Tlunt  Bcneivecl.  123 

disappointing  Hall,  wlio  was  thinking'  of  a  clam-feast.  He  Iiad  (;x- 
pected  to  find  the  paunch  well  filled,  as  usual,  with  clams  clean  of 
their  shells.  He  says  that  rarely  is  any  pai't  of  a  shell  larg-er  than 
a  dime  found  within  the  animal.  Having-  often  picked  \\\)  a  singh; 
shell  close  by  a  walrus-hole,  he  believed  that  the  habit  <>f  tlic  animal 
is  to  dig  but  one  clam  at  a  time,  and  then  come  up  to  blow  and  ex})el 
the  shell.  He  wonders  how  it  opens  the  clam  so  skillfully  as  not  to 
fracture  the  shell. 

The  homeward  journey  was  attended  with  the  usual  troubles  in 
crossing  fissures  and  regaining  the  land-floe,  but  at  4.30  p.  m.  the 
party  reached  their  igloos.  The  dogs,  divided  into  three  teams,  drew 
the  walrus-rolls,  which  slid  along  over  the  rough  ice  more  readily  than 
a  sled  Ou-e-la,  Ar-too-a,  and  Nu-Jcer-^Jioo,  who  had  been  further  to 
the  southeast,  joined  Hall  and  his  party  on  the  way  home,  Ou-e-la 
having  lost  his  harpoon  in  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  secure  another 
.walrus. 

One  animal  only  having  been  taken  at  this  time,  the  \\\\\\X  was 
resumed  in  the  closing  days  of  the  month,  when  a  very  long  journey 
was  made  to  determine  whether  the  animals  were  deserting  their  feed- 
ing-grounds. Many  holes  were  seen,  but  no  indications  of  a  recent 
visit,  and  there  seemed  no  prospect  of  further  success  until  a  gale 
should  carry  out  the  heavy  drift,  and  young  ice  should  again  form. 
For  some  who  were  out  at  this  time  on  the  floe,  Too-koo-li-too  kc])t. 
a  beacon-light  burning  on  the  hill-top.  The  men  endured  much 
exposure ;  when  it  was  dark,  they  lay  down  on  the  ice  with  the  dogs 
and  slept  until  they  became  cold,  then  aroused  themselves  and  walked 
again  till  they  got  warm;  alternately  sleeping  and  walking  through 
the  whole  night. 


Chaptei^  y. 


WINTER  LIFE  AND  JOURNEY  TO   THE   WAGER. 

JANUARY  TO  MAY,  18B5. 


125 


CHAPTER    V. 


New  Year's  Day — Hall's  srEEcii— Fkastixo — Brilliant  auroras— He  visits  wtiti  tiii:  Ix- 

NUITS   THE  whalers    AT    DEPOT  ISLAND — HOSPITALITIliS  AND  AMUSEMENTS    ON    BOARD — 

Return  to  Noo-wook — Shoo-she-ark-nook  persuades  some  of  the  Innuits  to  aban- 
don Hall— Supposed  earthquake — New  orders  of  the  An-ge-ko— Meteorological 
observations — Want  of  confidence  in  the  instruments — Experiments  as  to  the 
freezing-point  of  mercury — Severity  of  the  cold — Difficulty  in  making  rec- 
ords—Hall's BRASS  TABLETS— Supplies  xearly  exhausted— Ebierbing  comes  to  the 
RESCUE — Flocks  of  eider-ducks  in  the  Welcome — Native  customs  in  sealing — 
Nu-ker-ziioo's  and  Ebierbing's  ill-success — Supplies  of  provision,  fuel,  and  light 
nearly  gone — Plenty  restored — The  season  moderating — Plan  for  survey  of 

THE  W^ELCOME — HaLL'S    BROKEN    HEALTH — THE   TIDES   IN   THE   RIVER — REMOVAL  TO  THE 

Wager. 

The  first  day  of  the  year  1865,  Sunday,  was  one  of  gale  and  (h-ift, 
confining-  all  within  their  huts.  To  make  the  Tnnuits  acquainted  with 
some  of  the  pleasant  customs  of  civilization,  and,  by  so  doing,  furthei* 
gain  their  respect  and  good-will,  Hall  kept  the  second  day  of  the  mmitli 
as  "  New  Year's  Day."  The  mean  of  six  thermometers  showed  a  tem- 
perature of  62°  below  freezing-point,  and  no  cloud  was  seen  on  tlie 
sky.  Yet  Hall  says,  "  We  have  all  been  as  comfortable  as  though 
within  houses  of  brick  in  New  York." 

Too-koo-li-too  having  informed  all  the  Innuits  that  calls  were 
expected  at  the  i(jloo  from  the  crest  of  which  the  American    Hag  would 

127 


128 


New  Year's  Bay. 


[January,  JSti5. 


be  fl}'iiig',  visits  were  received  at  a  very  early  liour,  the  visitors  having 
but  a  short  distance  to  come  through  the  snow-covered  passage-ways 
which  connected  ahiiost  all  the  ifjloos.  Each  one  was  greeted  with 
"IIap})y  New  Year!  Happy  New  Year!"  A  breakfast  of  frozen  veni- 
son, well  relished,  was  followed  by  another  on  tood-noo,  to  which  young 
OoJc-har-loo,  son  of  Erk-tii-a,  treated  all  hands.  Hall  then  set  a  table 
made  of  sea-chests  resting  on  snow-pedestals.    It  was  25  feet  in  length, 


GUOUND   I'LAN   OF   VILLAGE   IGLOO. 

I,  fiitraucc;  11,  central  i^jr/oo ;  B,  bed-platform;  F,  lloor;  L,  laiup. 

extending  into  the  huts  of  Ou-e-la,  Ar-7nou,  and  Nii-ker-^Jioo,  and  hav- 
ing for  seats  around  it  snow-blocks  cushioned  with  deer-skins.  Flags 
were  draped,  and  lamps  were  lit  all  along  the  table,  and  at  2  p.  m. 
twenty-one  grown  persons  sat  down  to  the  feast.  Mammark,  a  wife, 
for  sj)('{'i;il  reasons,  and  Ook-har-Ioo,  because  still  an  invalid,  being  ruled 
•  •III  1)\   ciistoni,  iiUi  by  llienLselves. 


January,  IS65.J  TIlC    FcttSt    ttlld    the    KcfJ-hlV-Hk.  129 

Vegetable  and  pemmican  soup  and  sea-bread  were  furnished,  witli 
coffee  and  isinglass-jelly,  and  raisins  were  freely  distributed  for  dessert. 
Too-koo-li-too  waited  on  the  guests.  On  their  rising  from  the  table, 
many  of  them  placed  their  hands  in  front,  close  by  where  they  had 
abundantly  stowed  away  the  good  things,  and  cried  out,  "Good!  very 
good ! " 

At  the  second  table,  eighteen  children  were  gathered,  while  the 
men  retired  to  Ou-e-la^s  hut  to  smoke.  At  5  p.  m.,  the  men  were 
treated  to  brandy  punch,  of  which  a  few  sips  also  were  offered  to  the 
women,  as  they  had  asked  Too-koo-li-too  to  let  them  taste  what  their 
husbands  had  told  them  of  as  a  heart-warming  and  happy-making 
drink.  Erk-tu-a  said  she  had  drink  of  the  same  kind  many  times  on 
board  Parry's  ships,  years  before. 

The  snow-domes  were  soon  after  made  to  ring  with  the  songs  of 
eleven  of  the  women,  mingled  with  the  noise  of  repeated  performances 
by  the  men  on  the  hey-loiv-tik,  and  followed  by  the  thunderings  of  a 
dance.  Each  woman  had  on  her  forehead  a  bright  brass  band,  while 
down  one  side  of  her  face  hung  the  usual  long  pig- tail  adornment;  on 
her  breast  was  a  10-inch  square  cloth,  the  ground-work  of  which  was 
scarlet,  and  the  fringe,  scores  of  long  strings  of  beads  and  glass  buttons; 
the  body  of  the  breastplate  being  covered  with  the  same.  Ebierbing 
was  called  out,  and  responded  with  a  song,  which,  according  to  In- 
nuit  custom,  was  his  own  property — not  transferable.  He  had  pro- 
foundly attentive  listeners,  and  Too-koo-li-too  said  she  never  had 
thought  her  husband  could  do  so  well. 

Hall  then  gave  notice  through  Ebierbing  that  he  had  a  speech  to 
make,  and  Ebierbing  made  quite  a  speech  in  giving  the  notice.     Dress- 
ing as  a  civilized  man  and  taking  a  central  position  under  a  snow-arch, 
S.  Ex.  27 9 


130  HaWs    8peecll.  [January,  1865. 

Hall  then  "began  with  liis  best  bow"  by  expressing  his  satisfaction  at 
having  lived  with  them  four  moons  as  a  brother,  without  either  having 
spoken  one  bad  word  to  them,  or  having  heard  one  from  them  to  him- 
self, lie  tried  to  impress  them  with  the  greatness  of  his  native  coun- 
try, and  the  protection  always  shown  to  its  citizens  by  its  one  great 
E-she-mut-ta  (Chief),  enforcing  this  idea  by  pointing  to  the  flags 
around  him  Giving  them  some  idea  of  the  Queen  of  England  also, 
whom  he  called  "the  Great  Mother  that  owned  all  the  big  water  and 
the  land  on  which  they  were,  as  well  as  the  country  of  Ebierbing  and 
Too-koo-li-too,"  he  turned  to  these  two,  and  told  of  their  visit  to  Eng- 
land and  to  the  palace  of  the  Queen.  After  offering  a  good  deal  of 
wholesome  advice  to  persuade  his  hearers  to  have  more  care  as  to  their 
intercourse  with  white  men,  some  of  whom,  he  reminded  them,  had 
robbed  them  of  their  hunting  lines,  while  others  had  taught  them  to 
be  profane,  and  had  introduced  disease  among  them,  he  repeated  in 
full  his  reasons  for  leaving  home.  "I  have  come,"  he  said,  "to  your 
countr}'  to  find  out  all  about  some  white  brothers  who  came  to 
your  land  many  years  ago,  but  who  never  came  back.  Many  of 
these  brothers  had  wives  and  children.  Their  wives  want  the  Innuits 
to  tell  me  all  about  what  they  know  of  their  husbands.  Their  children 
want  you  to  tell  me  all  about  what  you  know  of  their  fathers. 
*  *  *  I  shall  want  you  to  help  me  a  good  deal ;  you  have 
told  mo  that  you  would  go  with  me  to  Neitchille,  and  help  me  to  find 
out  all  about  the  ship  or  two  ships,  as  some  of  you  have  told  me,  that 
were  two  years,  as  you  all  say,  in  the  ice  near  that  place.  I  have  pow- 
der, balls,  sliot,  and  caps  enough  for  "us  all  for  three  years.  All  these 
things  1  will  shai-c  witli  }'ou.  •  80  long  as  I  am  in  your  country,  let  us 
be  as  we  lui\  o  been  fur  the  four  moons  just  passed — a  band  of  brothers 


January,  1S65.]  An    AuYOTa.  '  131 

and  sisters.  I  thank  you  all  very  nnicli.  Good  ni<^dit."  On  hiis  con- 
cluding- a  very  long*  talk,  of  which  tlic  preceding  is  the  substance, 
Too-koo-H-too  tokl  Hall  that  he  had  much  pleased  his  hearers,  who 
wished  him  to  talk  again  He  had  throughout  the  speech  made  fre- 
quent pauses,  so  that  his  interpreters  could  make  him  perfectly  under- 
stood. 

The  three  days  which  followed  the  feast  had  been  again  days  of 
gale  and  drift.  The  meteorological  notes  of  the  fourth  day  of  the 
month  read:  "This  morning  the  mean  of  five  thermometers  is  70° 
below  freezing-point.  The  registers  of  three  others  are  rejected.  One 
of  them,  the  longest,  indicates  over  100°  below  freezing-point;  No.  2 
registers  110°,  and  No.  7  w^ill  not  register  more  than  77°  below  the 
freezing-point.  A  long  and  heavy  cloud  overhung  the  open  water  in 
the  Welcome,  its  vapor  looking  like  steam  from  a  monstrous  boiling 
cauldron." 

On  the  evening  of  the  7th,  at  8.45,  a  band  of  children  came  run- 
ning into  Hall's  Igloo,  crying  out  '■^  Ok-slmm-miing !  Ok-sJium-mung!''' — 
(Lights  very  fine.)  He  thus  describes  this  aurora:  When  he  registered 
the  thermometer  at  7  p.  m.,  the  sk}^  was  clear  and  cloudless,  and  there 
were  no  evidences  of  auroral  action.  At  8.45  there  were  three  belts 
of  aurora  extending  nearly  in  straight  lines  from  near  the  horizon  in 
the  southeast  up  to  the  zenith,  and  thence  within  40°  of  the  horizon 
to  the  northwest.  To  the  southwest  there  were  belts  of  aurora,  com- 
passing a  large  portion  of  the  heavens  from  15°  to  40°  above  the  hori- 
zon, these  belts  having  contortions  or  folds  like  those  in  the  Con- 
stellation, Draco.  A  fresh  breeze  was  blowing  from  the  nortli-north- 
west.     Thermometer,    72°    below   freezing-point;    barometer,    30.04. 


132  The  Natives  Wish  to  Visit  the  Ships  Af/ain.         [January,  jses. 

The  rays  of  the  aurora  were  vertical;  it  appeared  all  alive,  as  if  in 
high  glee,  dancing  to  and  fro  with  almost  the  rapidity  of  lightning. 
The  three  belts  extending  from  southeast  to  northwest  were  the  most 
interesting,  as  they  often  flashed  into  the  brilliant  colors  of  the  rain- 
bow. Each  belt  occasionally  resolved  itself  into  two  lines  or  tiers  of 
rays;  as  one  line  would  dance  rapidly  to  windward,  the  other  would 
dance  as  quickly  in  the  opposite  direction.  This  extraordinary  display 
lasted  five  minutes — an  unusual  time.  Hall  was  so  impressed  with  it 
tliat  he  wrote,  "  If  at  home  it  could  be  witnessed  for  one  moment,  one 
would  say,  'I  never  saw  northern  lights  before.'" 

The  natives  were  now  looking  forward  to  hunt  again  for  walrus 
when  the  ice  should  form.  After  securing  one  animal  they  would 
renew  their  visit  to  the  whale-ships.  They  pleaded  for  this  visit  their 
promise  to  assist  the  captains  in  getting  fresh  meat  for  the  crews,  and 
their  having  received  from  them  many  presents  without  making  any 
in  return.     Hall's  journal  says : 

Innuits  are  a  strange  people  to  deal  with;  a  wliite  man,  to  get  along  with 
them,  must  have  the  patience  of  Job.  They  are  the  children  of  nature,  and  like 
to  do  just  as  a  notion  leads  them.  I  learned  this  evening  that  half  the  people  of 
the  village,  including  several  of  the  women,  are  making  arrangements  to  accom- 
pany me  down  to  Depot  Island.  I  must  try  to  check  this,  for  if  the  Innuits  can 
be  induced  to  be  here  in  the  middle  of  February,  I  can  make  my  desired  journey 
next  spring.  If  I  had  a  small  vessel  at  Eepulse  Bay,  I  could  learn  all  the  particu- 
lars of  the  Franklin  Expedition  in  two  years;  with  Innuits  alone  it  may  take  live 
or  more.  11  I  liaxc,  liowever,  a  team  of  ten  dogs,  mj'self  Ebierbing  and  Too- 
koo-li-too  can  reach  Boothia  Felix  in  the  spring.  I  regret  that  I  have  not  a  few 
white  men  with  me. 

But  a  second  visit  to  the  ship  at  Depot  Island  was  arranged. 
Tlio  party  was  made  up  of  Hall,  six  Innuit  men,  Too-koo-li-too,  and 
six  other  females,  a  boy  (Oot-jnk),  and  two  babes;  all  of  whom  were 


jauiiary,  1S65.1  IlalVs   Visit  to  the   Whttlcrs.  133 

seated  on  three  sledges  drawn  by  twenty-two  dogs.  Tlio  boy,  Oot-pik, 
had  awakened  in  Hall  much  interest  by  his  brightness  and  his  liand- 
some  figure.  When  an  infant,  he  was  near  perishing  by  being  cast  off 
by  his  parents,  who  thought  that  he  was  near  death  and  would  never 
be  other  than  a  burden  to  them,  and  his  fate  was  just  decided,  on  their 
taking  fright  when  his  hair  began  to  fall  off  But  Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk 
and  his  wife,  who  had  but  one  child  of  their  own,  by  the  consent  of 
the  boy's  parents,  promptly  interposed  to  adopt  him,  and  he  very  soon 
recovered  his  full  health.  Quick  to  learn,  he  was  now  fast  becoming 
ready  in  speaking  English. 

The  sledge  party  were  well  supplied  with  venison,  walrus-meat, 
and  blubber,  and  reindeer-furs  for  traffic;  besides  their  own  provision 
and  the  articles  necessary  for  use  on  their  journey.  The  thermometer, 
when  they  bade  good-bye  to  the  twenty-six  Innuits  left  behind,  was 
72'^  below  freezing-point.  Running  for  a  short  distance  directly  south 
over  the  land,  they  struck  out  for  the  sea-ice  soon  found  to  be  smooth, 
and  then  followed  the  coast,  with  the  open  water  on  their  left  hand  at 
the  distance  of  less  than  a  mile.  Large  flocks  of  ducks  were  seen, 
and  fast- streaming  columns  of  vapor  rose  vertically  into  a  heavy 
fog-bank  extending  north  and  south  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 
At  3  p.  m.,  leaving  the  coast  and  striking  the  tracks  of  the  party  who 
had  gone  down  in  December,  they  halted  for  the  night  at  the  old 
ifjloo^  which  had  been  occupied  by  that  company,  about  17  nautical 
miles  south-southwest  from  their  vvinter  quarters  at  Noo-wook.  A 
load  of  venison  and  tood-noo  was  soon  secured  from  one  of  the  many  de- 
posits which  had  been  made  in  the  last  season.  Two  small  storehouses 
were  next  quickly  built  near  enough  to  the  igloo  for  them  to  hear  any 
attempt  the  dogs  might  make  to  break  into  these  for  the  meat ;  and 


134  The  Igloo  Made  on  the  Journey.  [January,  js65. 

Avhile  one  of  Ou-e-his  wives  shoveled  out  the  snow-drift  from  the  main 
hilt,  the  other  increased  the  thickness  of  its  walls  by  banking  up  more 
snow  on  the  outside.  Hall's  offered  assistance  to  the  women  in  this 
work  of  using  the  por-kut,  (snow-shovel,)  was  refused  by  the  husband. 
The  drift  being  thrown  out  of  the  way,  Ou-e-la  then  entered  and  made 
a  bed-platform  on  each  side  of  the  igloo,  dividing  the  two  by  a  trench 
a  foot  in  depth. 


GROUND-PLAN  OF  IGLOO. 
January  1),  1805.     Scale,  i"-12". 

The  women  and  children  having  then  crowded  in,  made  up  the 
beds  by  spreading  over  the  platforms  their  furred  deer-skins,  and  lit 
tlic  tliicc  firo-lamps  to  melt  snow  for  the  thirsty.  The  men  on  enter- 
ing carefully  Ix-at  tlieir  jackets  and  Jcodlin,  (outside  breeches,)  with  their 
ar-ni/r-fars^  to  ])rev<^iit   the  warmth  of  the  igloo  during  the  night  from 


January,  1863. J 


The  Sleep  in  the  Snow-liut. 


135 


nieltlng"  the  snow  upon  them ;  for  if  it  again  froze  upon  them  it  would 
make  the  garments  heavy  as  well  as  cold.     This  thorough  beating  re- 


AK-KOW-TAR,  SNOW-BEATEU. 

The  wood  of  this  from  one  of  Frankliu's  sliips. 

quired  a  fidl  half  hour.  The  temperature  within  the  hut,  under  the 
influence  of  the  lamps  and  of  the  crowd,  quickly  rose  from  41  "^j  hut 
was  again  lowered  by  the  venison  in  the  trench,  which,  when  first 
brought  in,  smoked  as  if  on  fire.  To  prevent  the  tongue  and  lips  from 
being  frozen  at  the  first  taste  of  the  meat,  it  was  held,  for  a  few 
moments,  in  mittened  hands  and  breathed  upon,  the  children's  share 
being  kept  awhile  in  their  parents'  mouths.  Oii-e-his  half-breed  in- 
fant, slipping  entirely  naked  from  its  mother's  hood,  played  on  the 
bed,  and  on  Ou-e-Ms  raising  the  child  to  his  shoulders,  it  stood  erect, 
balancing  itself,  swinging  its  arms  and  crowing  at  the  feat. 

At  9  p.  m.,  the  whole  party  huddled  together  for  the  night,  some 
being  compelled  to  sit  upright  through  the  long  hours  of  sleep.  Sev- 
enteen breathers  were  sealed  up,  with  a  large  snow-block,  in  a  hut  but 
10  feet  in  diameter  !  On  opposite  sides  of  the  trench,  nine  were  on 
one  platform  and  eight  on  the  other ;  every  one  (Innuit  fashion) 
having  the  head  toward  the  trench. 

In  the  morning,  between  the  hours  of  3  and  4,  the  men  waked, 
ate  a  quantity  of  deer-meat,  smoked,  and  again  went  to  sleep.  At  5, 
the  whole  party  were  amused  to  find  that  the  lamp-smoke  during  the 
night  had  covered  them  with  soot.  Hall  waked  with  a  severe  head- 
ache from  the  "  excess  of  carbonic-acid  gas  generated  by  three  fire- 
lights and  seventeen  persons." 


136 


Hall  Frequently  Frost- Bitten. 


[January,  1S63. 


Having-  re-shod  their  runners  with  ice,  they  now  repeated  their 
experiences  of  the  preceding-  day  and  made  a  journey  of  2G  miles  in  a 
south-southwest  direction,  tlie  children  riding  all  the  way,  but  the 
grown  persons  about  half  the  time  walking  or  running-  beside  the 
sleds. 


SEAL-SKIN    IUXJTS. 


BEAR-SKIN  MITTENt 


Watching  Hall,  the  natives  on  this  day,  and  on  the  days  follow- 
ing, thirty  times  restored  his  frost-bitten  nose  and  cheeks  by  their 
vigorous  rubbing.  He  accounts  for  this  frosting  by  the  fact  that  for 
the  preceding  month  he  had  eaten  but  little,  having  lost  all  appetite 
for  walrus-meat,  and  by  his  leaving  his  "phiz"  unprotected,  as  he 
wis] led  it  to  become  hardened  to  cold.  His  cheek  at  one  time  re- 
mained frozen  fifteen  minutes. 

In  the  i[/loo  occupied  the  second  night,  slabs  of  frozen  l-oiv  (walrus- 
hide)  were  hung  on  spears  running  crosswise  near  the  top  of  the  hut. 
They  were  tlius  partially  thawed  by  morning,  when  the  dogs  were 
(•;ill('(l  ill  one  at  a  time  and  fed  on  short  strips  of  the  meat. 

On  tlie  tliird  day  a  furious  gale  was  encountered,  whicli  increased 
bolow  Cape  Fullcrton,  compelling  a  halt  at  2.15  }).  m.,  at  the  end  of  a 
journey  of  26  miles,  during  which  it  had  been  necessary  to  encase  the 
children  in  reindeer-skins,  and  lash  them  on  Ou-e-la!s  sled. 

TIk;  iirst  sti-oke  of  tlie  spear  in  testing  at  tliis  place  the  snow  and 


January,  1803.]  A    Scol-AfjloO.  137 

ice  for  a  new  hut  now  struck  the  dome  of  a  seal  r/r/Zoo,  the  inclosure 
in  which  the  young  seal  is  born  and  reared.  It  was  oval,  its  diameters 
being  4  J  and  5i  feet,  and  its  height  from  the  floor  of  sea-ice  to  its  dome, 
2  feet.  Those  which  Hall  had  before  seen  were  circular.  Tlie  «)})en- 
ing  for  the  seal  to  come  up  into  this  snow-dome  made  by  her  through 
the  sea-ice,  was  near  the  end  of  the  longer  diameter. 

The  party  found  their  resting-place  for  this  night  warmer 
than  that  in  their  first  ?V//oo,  which  they  said  was  because  tliis 
hut  was  entirely  new.  They  were,  however,  several  miles  from  land, 
and  in  danger  of  being  driven  by  the  storm  into  the  broad  Hudson 
Bay. 

On  the  two  following  days  the  wind  was  fair,  and  the  thermome- 
ter ranged  from  36°  to  34°.  On  the  12th,  their  fourth  igloo  was  made 
on  a  small  island  28  miles  due  west  of  their  third.  The  land  on  their 
right  was  too  low  to  be  seen,  but,  according  to  the  Eskimos,  it  was 
marked  by  deep  inlets  and  bays,  one  of  which  extended  to  the  north 
from  50  to  75  miles.  On  the  left  a  ridge  of  hummocks  intervened 
between  them  and  the  open  water,  a  distance  of  from  one  to  three 
miles.  Hall  expresses  a  desire  to  make  an  accurate  survey  of  this 
whole  coast-line,  even  from  York  Factory  to  Repulse  Bay ;  as,  from 
what  he  had  seen,  he  judged  that  no  chart  gave  anything  like  an 
accurate  delineation  of  it — certainly  none  showed  the  coast  from 
Cape  Fullerton  to  Depot  Island.  On  account  of  the  shore  being 
very  low  and  nearly  uniform,  a  survey  would  have  required  much 
time  and  care. 

At  a  late  hour  of  the  next  day,  Oti-e-Ja,  mounting  a  hummock, 
pointed  out  the  masts  of  the  whale-ships,  which  his  quick  eye  discov- 
ered when   Hall   could  not  see   them ;  they  appeared  only  as  sharp 


138  Arrival  at  Depot  Island.  [January,  isos. 

needle-lines  in  the  distance.  The  dogs  were  now  urged  to  their 
utmost  speed,  but  the  storm-clouds  shut  in  upon  them  before  Hall 
could  take  a  compass-bearing  which  might  have  saved  some  hours  of 
wandering.  Traveling  then  became  exceedingly  difficult,  until,  accord- 
ing to  Eskimo  usage  in  such  cases,  a  woman  was  selected  as  the  guide. 
One  of  Ou-e-ki's  wives  well  executed  this  task,  although  for  a  time  mis- 
led by  a  light  on  Ar-goo-moo-too-UJc's  sled  which  was  seeking  to  regain 
it«  track.  This  light  was  from  a  piece  of  moss  at  the  bottom  of  a  dish 
containing  a  little  oil ;  at  first  she  believed  it  to  be  on  the  ships.  Re- 
gaining their  course,  the  party  soon  saw  a  signal  swinging  high  on  the 
mast  of  the  Monticello,  its  crew  having  heard  the  cries  of  the  dog- 
drivers  and  dogs  for  half  a  mile  back. 

Hall  had  closely  shaved  his  hair  and  beard  for  this  journey, 
yet  devoutly  wishing  when  he  cut  them  that  the  ice  could  have  been 
kept  off,  that  they  might  have  been  saved  to  warm  him.  He  was 
distinguishable  from  the  rest  of  the  snow- covered  party  by  his  voice 
only ;  but  was  soon  recognized  by  Captain  Chapel,  and  welcomed  to 
his  old  quarters  on  the  ship.  After  partaking  of  the  first  hospitalities 
of  the  Monticello,  and  seeing  that  his  party  were  properly  cared  for, 
he  turned  into  his  bunk,  expecting  a  full  season  of  rest.  But  the 
change  from  the  igloo  was  too  sudden  ;  he  slept  none  during  the  night. 
After  his  next  meal  he  could  not  help  entering  in  his  journal  that  he 
"  liked  civilization  food"  as  well  as  any  man,  and  it  was  only  through 
his  determination  to  fathom  the  myster}^  relative  to  the  lost  expedition 
that  he  could  possildy  submit  to  live  the  life  of  the  Eskimos  as  he  had 
done  and  as  he  must  still  do.     He  cono-ratulated  himself  that  he  had 

o 

not  forgotten  how  to  use  his  plate,  knife,  and  fork  after  135  days'  disuse 
of  said  aiticles. 


January,  J 863.]  Amitscmeuis  0)1  Bom'd  the   Whalers.  139 

In  this  harbor,  a  little  more  than  a  mile  west  of  Depot  Island,  four 
whalers  besides  the  Monticello  were  anchored  within  rifle-shot  of  each 
other ;  these  were  the  George  and  Mary  of  New  London ;  the  lilack 
Eagle  and  the  Antelope  of  New  Bedford ;  and  the  Concordia  of  Fair- 
haven,  Mass.  Each  was  banked  up  Avith  snow  six  or  eight  feet  thick 
and  nearly  up  to  the  gunwale,  the  upper  deck  being  well  housed.  On 
board  the  Monticello,  although  but  little  coal  was  used,  the  tempera- 
ture was  kept  above  32°  throughout  the  vessel.  Five  other  whalers, 
including  the  Ansell  Gibbs  and  the  Tender,  Helen  F.,  were  anchored 
in  a  commodious  harbor  completely  land-locked  on  the  northwest  side 
of  Marble  Island,  an  islet  about  15  miles  in  length,  lying  12  miles 
off  the  coast. 

On  board  all  of  these  vessels  the  amusements  usually  gotten  up  by 
Arctic  voyagers  for  maintaining  the  cheerfulness  and  health  of  their  crews 
were  at  this  time  in  full  play,  and  were  generally  of  a  theatrical  charac- 
ter, varied  by  masked  balls  and  by  several  forms  of  the  dance.  Among 
the  exercises  of  speaking  and  singing,  the  memory  of  Franklin  and  the 
fate  of  his  expedition  were  not  forgotten.  The  new-comers  were  par- 
ticularly pleased  with  the  farces,  while  Too-koo-li-too,  in  her  turn, 
gave  the  ships'  companies  great  satisfaction  by  her  skill  in  a  Green- 
land dance. 

Hall  experienced  a  full  share  of  the  hospitalities  frequently  recip- 
rocated between  the  vessels  at  the  two  islands.  The  meat  which  his 
party  had  brought  down  with  the  design  of  dividing  it  among  the  five 
ships  at  Depot  Island  had  been  pounced  upon  by  one  crew.  But  the 
supply  of  fresh  meats  was  plentiful  on  all  the  ships,  and  the  condition 
of  the  musk-ox  meat  previously  obtained,  and  of  the  hogs  brought  out 
from  home,  was  a  good  indication  of  the  care  taken  by  the  wlialers 


140  Hospitality  on  Board.  [jauuary,  ises. 

a"-ainst  scurvy,  cases  of  which  were  very  few  and  of  the  lightest  fonn. 
His  first  disappointment  was  the  news  that  botli  the  Antelope  and 
the  Black  Eagle  had  been  in  Repulse  Bay  in  August  previous ;  that 
the  land  was  then  covered  with  reindeer,  and  that  these  ships  had 
looked  for  him,  and  would  probably  have  remained  there  all  the  win- 
ter had  they  found  him.  These  vessels  had  seen  many  whales,  and 
each  ship  had  secured  ten;  all  which  had  been  seen,  were  small.  Hall's 
disappointment  was  followed  by  his  entire  failure  to  obtain  now  a 
promise  from  Ou-e-Ia  of  a  dog-team  for  his  spring  sledge  journey,  or 
the  loan  of  a  team  from  the  ships ;  they  would  need  all  their  dogs  for 
the  early  spring  floe-whaling. 

During  his  stay  on  the  whalers,  unwillingly  protracted  to  the 
10th  of  the  following  month,  he  spent  much  time  on  the  volumes  of 
his  Arctic  library,  left  on  the  Monticello  in  August;  especially  on 
those  works  which  would  best  aid  him  on  this  voyage  and  on  his 
proposed  future  voyage  to  the  North  Pole  He  did  not  fail  to  record 
some  strange  reading  of  the  thermometers,  together  with  interest- 
ing auroral  and  other  atmospheric  phenomena.  On  the  15th,  the 
mercurial  thermometer  on  the  Monticello's  mainmast  read,  at  7  a.  m., 
—  44° ;  at  noon,  —  43° ;  at  7  p.  m.,  —  45° ;  while  his  own  ethereal  ther- 
mometer read,  at  the  same  hours,  — 37°,  — 36°,  — 38°.  He  believed 
the  last  three  records  too  high.     He  says  : 

I  am  convinced  of  this  by  the  test  I  hitely  made  at  my  winter  quarters  by 
exposing:,  one  night,  a  dish  of  pure  mercury  to  the  out-door  air.  My  tliermometers 
arc  numlH'rcd  0,  J,  11,  111,  IV,  Y,  VI,  and  VII.  In  tlic  morning',  Avlien  my  Xo.  0 
llnniioiiicter  stood  at  40^.5,  the  mercury  was  frozen  so  hard  that  only  the  sharp 
nails  of  the  finger  could  be  made  to  penetrate  it.  Undoubtedly  5°  or  (P  liigher 
toni])ernture  would  have  left  it  in  a  frozen,  unfluid  state.  Some  mercury  will 
freeze  at  —  38*^ ;  pure  may  not  at  even  —  40<^. 


February,  is(>5.]         Hotv  to  Determine  Time  at  the  Pole.  141 

lu  Chapel's  thermometer  the  mercury  would  not  run  down  the  tube  while 
inverted  until  a  few  degrees  of  warmth  were  communicated  to  it,  ])ut  Uw,  ther- 
mometer continued  to  act.  I  am  sati«tied  that  a  good  mercurial  instrument  will 
indicate  the  true  state  of  the  atmosphere  several  degrees  below  the  temperature 
of  the  mercury  with  which  it  is  filled. 

In  one  of  liis  leisure  hours,  revolving  in  mind  the  problem  f>f 
determining  time  at  the  North  Pole,  he  came  to  the  conclusion  that 
with  the  helj)  of  an  English  nautical  almanac,  Greenwich  time  could  be 
found  there  by  star  occultations  or  by  the  eclipses  of  Jupiter's  satel- 
lites, but  perhaps  oftener  b}^  lunar  distances.  He  had  at  first  reasoned 
that  at  a  place  where  there  could  be  no  such  thing  as  a  day,  and  no 
cardinal  point  but  one  ;  where  all  the  lieavenly  bodies  revolve  paral- 
lel to  the  horizon,  with  the  exception  of  the  change  caused  b}'  the 
variation  of  declination ;  where  there  is  no  meridian,  or  rather  where 
every  meridian  is : — it  would  seem  impossible  to  determine  time. 

*  There  is  one  great  difficulty  that  will  be  experienced  bywhomsoever  shall  reach  the  Pole; 
that  is,  there  will  ie  no  means  for  detcrmhihig  time  by  astronomical  ohservations.  How  can  there  be 
"when  all  the  heavenly  bodies  in  view  of  the  observer  while  at  the  Pole  are  continually  revolving 
about  him  parallel  with  his  horizon.  The  only  exception  to  this  is  simply  the  variation  of  decli- 
nation. At  the  Korth  Pole  there  can  be  no  tq^per  or  loiver  culminations  of  the  sun,  moon,  planets, 
and  stars,  for  it  is  a  point  where  there  is  no  meridian;  then  it  follows  that  there  is  no  day  there — 
no  solar  day,  no  siderial  day,  no  lunar  day.  W^hy  no  day  ?  "Because  a  day  is  the  interval  time 
between  the  departure  of  a  heavenly  body  from  any  meridian  and  its  succeeding  return  to  it ;" 
and  there  being  no  meridian  at  the  North  Pole,  there  can  be  no  departure  from  or  return  to  one  by 
a  heavenly  body.  At  the  North  Pole  there  is  no  meridian  ;  it  is  a  point  nevertheless  where  the 
meridians  of  every  spot  on  the  face  of  the  globe  meet,  or,  in  other  words,  where  they  terminate 
to  0  (zero  or  nothing).  But  a  new  idea  had  just  struck  me.  Time  can  be  determined  at  the  North 
Pole  by  lunars.  Having  a  Nautical  Almanac  and  the  usual  instrnments,  it  can  be  easily  done. 
Take  one  observation  of  the  sun's  altitude,  or  of  either  of  the  planets  or  stars  used  in  lunar  obser- 
vations; one  altitude  of  the  moon,  without  any  particular  care  in  noting  the  exact  time  when 
these  two  observatiens  are  made ;  then  carefully  observe  the  angular  distance  of  sun  and  moon, 
or  moon  and  one  of  the  planets  or  stars  used  in  lunar  observations,  and  note  the  time. 

[I  did  not  mean  by  my  references  to  determining  time  at  the  Polo  that  this  will  be  North 
Polar  time  or  mean  time.  Certainly  not,  for  this,  as  I  understand  the  matter,  would  be  absurd. 
To  say  that  such  an  event  occurred  at  such  an  hour  North  Pole  time  or  mean  time  would  be  out  of 
all  reason]. 

Having  made  the  usual  observations  in  taking  a  lunar,  Avork  these  up.  The  true  distance 
of  the  moon  from  sun,  or  planet,  or  star  being  found,  proceed  with  the  use  of  the  lunar  tables  as 
in  lunar  work.  The  result  will  be  Greenwich  time  if  the  British  or  American  Nautical  Almanac 
be  the  one  used.    I  do  not  consider  it  necessary  that  one  at  the  Pole  should  have  a  chronometer 


1 42  Hall    Returns    to    NoO-lVOOJi.  [February,  1S65. 

On  the  lOtli  of  February  he  began  his  return  journey  to  Noo- 
icooJ:,  leaving'  behind  him,  as  he  had  unwillingly  anticipated,  the  larger 
number  of  the  natives.  They  had  made  themselves  very  useful  in 
1  muting  for  the  crews  the  seal,  the  fox,  and  the  bear,  with  the  usual 
varied  success  and  excitement  of  the  chase.  Ar-mou  at  one  time  going 
alone  in  pursuit  of  a  large  polar,  harpooned  him,  but,  in  his  determi- 
nation to  secure  the  animal,  he  was  himself  fairly  dragged  over  the 
thin  ice  to  the  sea  and  nearly  drowned.  Ou-e-la  and  Ar-mou,  before 
going  down  in  December,  had  agreed  that  they  would  early  return. 
But  now,  with  their  wives  and  friends,  they  were  not  unwillingly 
detained  by  the  cajotains.  On  bidding  the  whalers  good-bye,  Hall 
was  furnished  with  some  substantial  and  even  delicacies ;  for  he  was 
unable  to  conceal  the  fact  that  he  considered  some  "civilization  food" 
as  almost  a  necessity.  After  the  play  of  Damon  and  Pythias,  given  in 
his  honor  on  the  previous  evening,  he  made  a  speech  to  140  seamen 
gathered  on  one  of  the  ships,  complimenting  the  courage  and  hardi- 
hood of  the  American  whalers  who  succeeded  in  finding  harbors  in  a 

that  had  been  adjusted  to  Greenwich  or  to  any  other  time  in  making  his  lunar  observations. 
Indeed,  it  may  be  supposed  that  he  knows  nothing  of  time  save  the  year.  By  the  observed  alti- 
tude and  variation  of  declination  of  the  snn  or  one  of  the  i)lanets,  he  can  determine  the  month  of 
the  year,  and  by  the  lunar  distance  the  day  of  the  month,  and  by  repeated  workings  of  the  lunar 
observations  can  determine  Greenwich  mean  time  as  a]>proximately  as  lunars  will  admit. 
Having  Greenwich  mean  time  by  it,  one  easily  gets  Greenwich  apparent  time.  The  party  now  at 
the  Pole,  we  will  say,  is  desirous  to  i^roceed  toward  Greenwich.  He  consults  his  watch,  which  is 
now  at  band  and  in  running  order.  A  good  time-pieee  should,  however,  1)e  in  hand  at  the  time 
the  angular  distance  of  the  moon  from  the  sun,  or  the  moon  from  such  other  heavenly  body  as 
may  be  used  in  the  lunar  observations  is  observed,  and  the  exact  moment  noted.  No  matter  what 
hour  this  instrument  is  set  to  before  commencing  the  observation,  the  result  of  the  lunar  obser- 
vations will  show  how  much  too  fast  or  slow  the  chronometer  is  on  Greenwich  time ;  and  thus 
one  has  in  hand  the  instrument  to  tell  him  at  any  moment,  therefore,  the  Greenwich  mean  time. 

When  the  time-piece  indicates  the  apparent  time  of  Greenwich  of  Oh.  Om.  Os.,  the  sun  (we 
will  suppose  it  to  be  summer  in  north  latitude)  is,  on  the  meridian  of  Greenwich,  exactly  in  the 
direction  of  Greemcxch. 

The  observer  at  this  moment  directs  his  compass-sight  and  takes  a  bearing.  He  proceeds, 
as  he  lifaves  the  Pole,  not  only  south  (there  is  only  one  cardinal  point  at  the  North  Pole,  Avhich 
is  south),  but  on  the  meridian  of  Greenivich. 

Greenwich  mean  time  may  be  determined  by  an  occnltation  of  a  stai  or  of  a  planet;  also, 
by  the  eclipses  of  .Jupiter's  satellites.  Jupiter,  liowever,  is  alternately  in  sight  and  out  of  sight 
for  six  years  at  a  time  at  the  Pol.-s  of  the  earth.     (Journal  on  board  the  whaler  at  Depot  Island.) 


Fcbriinry,  IS65.]  Arrivol  cit  Noo-wook.  143 

locality  in  the  bay  where  a  like  success  had  not  been  met  with  Ijy  11. 
M.  S.  Griper  in  1824.* 

Beginning  his  journey  at  <S.?)0  in  the  morning,  ho  was  accompanied 
by  SJioo-sJie-ark-nook,  Ook-har-Ioo,  Too-koo-li-too,  and  a  girl  named 
Noiv-ycr.  Their  dogs  numbered  ten.  After  traveling  27  miles  in  an 
easterly  direction,  they  again  quartered  for  the  niglit  in  an  igloo  on  the 
sea-ice.  The  distance  made  on  the  second  day  was  about  the  same 
as  that  on  the  first,  but  on  the  third  they  lost  their  way,  Hall's  com- 
passes proving  totally  unreliable.  He  was. glad  again  to  trust  himself 
to  the  skillful  guidance  of  the  Innuits.  Turning  next  to  the  north 
they  were  met  by  a  furious  gale  from  the  northeast,  with  thick  snow, 
shutting  them  up  a  second  time  on  the  ice  of  the  Welcome,  but  the 
next  morning  all  was  calm  and  "clear  as  a  bell." 

They  reached  Noo-wooh  on  the  14th. 

Hall  had  suffered  on  the  journey  by  the  strange  conduct  of  Shoo- 
she-ark-nook,  who  had  allowed  each  of  the  party  but  a  few  ounces  from 
the  abundance  of  walrus-meat  packed  on  the  sled,  although  he  ate 
pounds  of  it  himself  and  fed  it  to  the  dogs,  and  although  Hall  had 
freely  shared  with  him  all  his  own  bread  and  coffee.  To  keep  up  his 
strength  and  warmth,  for  the  supply  of  which  to  an  Arctic  ti-aveler 
bread  and  coffee  are  not  enough,  he  had  submitted  to  eat  the 
unpalatable  and  tough  Jcow  (hide  of  the  walrus). 

In  accordance  with  the  expectations  he  had  held  out  to  the  natives 
on  New  Year's  Day,  he  now  distributed  to  them  the  presents  which  he 
had  obtained  from  the  ships.  The  bread  which  Ar-mou  had  sent  back 
to  his  family  had  unfortunately  been  stolen  by  the  dogs  on  the  jour- 

*  Lyon's  journal  (p.  110)  says:  Marble  I^^land,  according  to  Middleton,  is  the  only  spot  along 
the  whole  American  coast  from  Cliurcliill  upward  wliicli  ail'ords  tolerably  good  anclioragt>. 
There  is  an  excellent  harbor  in  the  island,  but  its  entrance  is  dangerous.  At  spring  tides  there 
are  only  13  feet  on  the  bar.     The  Griper  drcAv  10  feet. 


144  A  Beported  Earthquake.  [Febru«i-y,  isws. 

ney.  The  natives  were  living  on  short  commons,  because  of  tlieir  recent 
ill  success  in  hunting.  Ebierbing,  on  the  day  following,  while  on  an 
unsuccessful  walrus  hunt,  killed  one  of  a  large  flock  of  eider-ducks 
(Mei-titl's),  of  the  weight  of  which  Hall  satisfied  himself  by  first  bal- 
ancino-  it  with  the  two  books  "The  Fate  of  Franklin"  and  "  Burritt's 
Geography  of  the  Heavens"  in  a  tin  kettle,  and  then  balancing  these 
volumes  with  a  bag  of  rifle-balls.  He  found  the  weight  of  the  duck 
to  be  that  of  312  rifle-balls,  =i  6  pounds.  The  bird  had  in  its  gizzard 
snail-shells  in  perfect  condition,  which  were  preserved  for  examination 
as  to  their  species. 

On  the  17th,  at  50  minutes  past  noon,  a  low  rumbling  noise  was 
heard,  resembling  that  of  a  train  of  cars  slowly  crossing  a  bridge  and 
dying  gradually  away.  The  Innuits  said  that  a  like  noise  had  been 
heard  twice  during  Hall's  absence,  coming  from  the  southeast,  and 
continuing  for  a  long  time,  and  spoke  of  it  as  Toon-giva,  the  bad  Spirit, 
shaking  the  earth.  During  a  new  performance  by  the  an-ge-Jco,  to 
which  he  summoned  all  hands  at  midnight,  he  issued  the  order  that 
the  kook-higs  must  not  be  emptied,  nor  the  frost  scraped  from  the  ice- 
windows  of  the  igloos  till  sunrise.  This  order,  however,  was  accom- 
panied by  another  decree  for  an  exchange  of  wives;  and  on  his  own 
wife's  refusal  to  go  to  Ebierbing's  hut  for  this  purpose,  the  An-ge-ko, 
(Ar-too-a,)  beat  her  most  unmercifully. 

A  few  days  after,  fourteen  of  the  Innuits  moved  a  few  miles 
southward,  ostensibly  to  be  nearer  the  seal  and  walrus  grounds  and 
their  depositaries  of  reindeer-meat.  About  an  equal  number,  includ- 
ing his  two  fast  friends,  remained  with  Hall.  Shoo-slie-ark-nook, 
through  some  ill  feeling,  had  endeavored  to  persuade  every  one  to 
desert  him.  During  this  native's  sickness  and  that  of  his  son.  Hall 
had  closel}'  watched  both,  and  saved  them  when  at  death's  door.     For 


February,  1S65.1  A  Sccd  Sccurcil  1)7/  Ingenuity.  145 

a  few  days,  now,  lie  was  placed  under  serious  Mpprehension  that  SJioo- 
sJte-arJc-noolc  would  induce  all  to  leave  him  with  Ebierbing  and  Too- 
koo-li-too,  to  get  along-  the  best  way  they  could  alone.  The  fel- 
low was,  not  long  after,  brought  to  terms  when  his  own  necessities 
returned  upon  him. 

Ebierbing,  on  the  19th,  shot  a  seal  weighing  125  pounds.  It  was 
too  fat  to  sink,  and  its  blubber  made  more  than  four  gallons  of  oil. 
The  meat  was  divided  equally  among  all  the  families.  Having  no 
other  means  of  securing  a  second  seal  which  he  had  killed  at  too  great 
a  distance  from  the  land-ice  to  be  reached  by  his  harpoon,  he  had 
endeavored  to  lodge  in  its  body  a  line  shot  out  from  a  rifle-grooved 
ball ;  but,  each  time,  his  line  broke.  His  companions,  talking  over  the 
matter,  returned  to  the  spot  with  Hall,  and  found  the  water  now  cov- 
ered with  a  thin  coat  of  ice.  Lashing  together  a  number  of  poles  and 
flats,  and  making  of  them  an  oonar  (seal-spear)  a  hundred  feet  in  length, 
they  fastened  to  its  end  a  harpoon  carrying  a  seal-line,  and  then 
pushed  this  long  pole  through  a  hole  in  the  ice  toward  the  seal.  It  re- 
quired skill  to  direct  it,  as  the  sea-ice  is  not  transparent,  but  on  the  second 
attempt,  after  sunset,  the  seal  was  reached,  and  the  harpoon  withdrawn 
an  arm's  length  and  struck  into  the  animal  by  a  skillful  blow.  Snow 
was  next  kicked  upon  the  body,  and  then  thoroughly  rubbed  off"  with 
the  feet,  to  prevent  its  hairy  coat  from  being  loaded  with  ice.  A  hole 
was  cut  in  its  nose  and  a  line  passed  through  it,  by  a  loop  of  which, 
thrown  over  Hall's  shoulders,  he  dragged  it  to  his  igloo,  sharing  it 
equally  with  all. 

On  the  24th  and  25th  a  severe  gale  prevailed  from  the  north- 
northwest,  the  thermometer  ranging  from  —23°  to  —34°,  and  the  snow 
drifting  thickly.  Over  the  Welcome,  the  fog-bank  showed  that  the  ice 
S.  Ex.  27 10 


146 


Loiv  hut  Unreliable  Thermometer  Headings.     [February,  isbs. 


had  been  driven  off  shore.  The  mean  of  the  five  thermometers  at  7  p. 
m.,  when  the  gale  had  entirely  subsided,  was  —  39°;  but  Hall  had  now 
further  reason  to  place  no  confidence  in  two  out  of  seven  instruments, 
one  of  which  stood  at  —  100°  and  the  other  at  —  75°.  Shortly  after 
this  he  wrote :  ''  It  is  annoying  to  have  but  one  of  nine  thermom- 
eters, right.  But  by  taking  even  one  to  the  United  States,  and  having 
it  compared  with  a  standard,  with  my  data,  all  the  observations  can  be 
worked  up  to  said  standard." 

During  the  night  of  the  26tli  his  five  self-registering  thermometers 
read,  —48°,  —46°,  -48°,  —48°,  — /)2°.  At  8  a.  m.  he  experi- 
mented with  the  mercury  given  to  him  by  Mr.  Green,  one  of  the  in- 
strument-makers of  New  York,  for  his  artificial  horizon.  Pouring  some 
of  this  into  a  dish  near  his  thermometer,  he  found  the  mass  quickly 
frozen,  small  spherical  drops  remaining  fluid  until  the  pressure  of  a 
pencil  changed  their  form.  When  the  mass  of  the  mercury  again 
became  fluid,  or  nearly  so,  with  the  rising  temperature,  these  globules 
remained  solid. 

The  following  table  gives  the  results  of  his  observations  ;  the 
thermometers  numbered  I,  II,  and  VII,  at  first  being  below  the  marks, 
were  not  read : 


1    --s 

Therniometers 

numbercc 

— 

k  'J 

Mercurial  test — state  of  ex- 
posed mercury. 

0. 

I. 

II. 

III. 

IV. 

V. 

VI. 

vn. 

h.  m. 

i   »• 

-37°.  5 

-38°.  5 

-38°.  5  1 

-44° 

^    ffl 

Hard  t'rozpn. 

8 

■;:     i 

T    " 

-36° 

-38°.  5 

-38°.  5 

-44° 

o   ^ 

Hard  fro^.en. 

8    30 

-VP 

o   3 

-83°.  5 

-34°.  5 

-38° 

-37°.  5  1 

-42° 

Hard  frozen. 

9    50 

-3.>° 

-80° 

-33°.  7 

-36° 

-35°.  5 

-40° 

-41° 

Hard  frozen. 

10    10 

-33°.  5 

« 

-77° 

-32° 

-34°.  25 

-34°      1 

-38° 

-39° 

Tieldius  a  little. 

10    25 

-32° 

-90° 

-73°.  5 

-30° 

-33° 

-33° 

-36° 

-37° 

Semi -tiuid,  half  of  it. 

10    45 

-30O 

-86° 

-72° 

-29° 

-31°.  75 

-31° 

-35° 

-36° 

Nearlv  fluid;  some  still  solid. 

11 

1 

February,  1865.]  The  Freezing- Poifit  of  Mercury.  147 

These  experiments  still  further  confirmed  his  uncertainty  as  to  the 
true  freezing-point  of  mercury,  and  he  was  at  a  loss  to  know  how  to 
coiTect  his  thermometer-register.  On  the  following  day  he  continued 
his  experiments  with  frozen  mercury,  the  lowest  temperature  during 
the  night  having  been  —  39°  ;  and  at  7  a  m.  his  thermometers  standing 
thus:  -  3(3°,  -  90°,  -  72°,  -  34°,  -  36°,  -  36°,  -  40°,  -  42°.  An 
attempt  to  mold  mercury  into  a  bullet  did  not  meet  with  success.  The 
temperature  of  the  freezing  mass  now  differed  from  what  had  appeared 
on  the  previous  day,  and  he  began  to  question  whether  its  repeated 
freezing  does  not  affect  the  case,  or  whether  the  discrepancies  noted 
had  not  arisen  from  some  lack  of  watchfulness  needed  to  prevent  the 
communicating  of  heat  to  the  thermometers  from  his  own  person.* 
He  says:  ''Why  should  I  not  be  in  doubt  about  the  freezing-point  of 
mercury  when  masses  freeze  and  little  rain-drops  of  the  same  metal 
from  the  same  jar  remain  fluid  ?    Admitting  that  mercury  freezes,  by  a 

*  These  notes  of  Hall's  experiments  may  be  compared  with  the  following,  to  be  found  in  the 
"  Results  derived  from  the  Arctic  Expedition,  1875-'76"  (Pariiameutary  Paper  C,  2176).  Captain 
Nares  says,  on  p.  107  : 

"The  spirit  and  mercury  thermometers  were  fixed  alongside  one  another  in  the  same 
screen,  and,  being  read  o^  every  hour  during  the  winter,  were  found  to  agree  very  well  together 
until  the  temperature  fell  to  about  —  44°,  when,  on  the  temperature  reaching  a  certain  point  be- 
tween —45°  and  —  46°.5,  the  mercury  fell  suddenly  to  a  point  in  the  tube  Avhich  would  be  about 
equal  to  —  60°  had  the  tube  been  graduated. 

"While  in  this  state,  the  mercury  could  be  easily  tapped  down  to  a  lower  point  in  the  scale. 
It  appeared  to  be  very  brittle— that  is,  as  the  end  of  it  reached  the  narrow  passage  leading  to  the 
bull),  small  particles  broke  off  and  found  their  way  through.     The  stream  was  not  continuous. 

"When  the  thermometer  was  left  <iuito  sUU,  no  matter  how  cold  the  atmosphere  was,  the 
mercury  never  sank  lower  in  the  tube  than  about  —  60°. 

"  When  a  thaw  set  in,  the  first  effect  was  to  melt  the  mercury  remaining  in  the  tube,  which 
fell  into  the  bulb  out  of  sight,  the  mercury  in  the  bulb  always  taking  a  longer  time  and  a  higher 
temperature  before  it  became  fluid.  By  the  obser-v  ations  made,  this  temperature  is  about  -  35°, 
but  length  of  time  may  affect  the  actual  degree  at  which  the  mercury  would  become  fluid. 

"  Occasionally,  when  the  mercury  assumed  the  fluid  state,  the  expansion  was  apparently  a 
sudden  actiou,  as  the  mercury  in  the  tube  of  the  maximum  thermometer,  lying  in  nearly  a  hori- 
zontal position,  was  projected  along  the  tube,  and  registered  a  much  higher  temperature  than 
that  of  the  atmosphere  ;  thns,  on  February  22  the  maximum  thermometer  registered  a  tempera- 
ture of  +  51°. 5,  and  on  March  30,  +  3^.0,  botli  readings  being  higher  than  the  actual  temperature 
experienced."  During  the  24  hours  preceding  the  first  of  these  observations,  the  weather  was 
stormy,  and  the  thermometer  may  have  been  shaken. 


148  Extreme  Difficulty  in  Writing.  fFcbruury,  ises. 

standard  tlieraiometer,  at  —  40°,  then  nly  thermometer  No.  0  does  not 
register  when  at  —  35°  low  enough  by  at  least  5°,  for  at  10^-  10"^  a.  in. 
frozen  mercury  remained  solid  and  fluid  mercury  froze." 

He  now  made  his  own  records  with  great  difficulty ;  his  inkstand 
occasionally  was  warmed  beneath  the  fur  clothing  of  one  of  the 
Innuits,  the  pen  was  constantly  warmed  by  breathing  on  it,  and  tlie 
ink  in  his  pen  breathed  upon  as  frequently.  His  fingers  and  thumb 
he  wanned  by  a  small  lamp,  whicli  also  heated  two  metal  plates* 
alternately  placed  underneath  the  leaf  on  which  he  wrote.  The  ink 
was  obtained  from  a  deposit  of  icy  ink-blocks  outside  of  the  igloo ; 
slices  from  these  were  chipped  off,  crushed,  and  thawed  inside.  In 
detailing  this,  and  speaking  of  his  frequent  exercise  necessary  to  keep 
his  blood  in  motion,  he  says,  that  "  although  apparently  warmly 
dressed  in  skins  from  head  to  foot,  (his)  vigilance  in  dancing  on  the 
snow  floor  of  the  igloo  to  keep  his  blood  in  circulation  was  the  price 
not  only  of  liberty,  but  of  life  itself" 

The  supply  both  of  meat  and  blubber  for  oil  had  now  become 
very  low,  suggesting  grave  apprehensions  of  want.  The  seal-meat 
was  all  gone  and  the  walrus-meat  nearly  devoured.  The  blubber,  so 
necessary  for  the  lamp-light  and  for  melting  snow  for  their  drink,  was 
consumed.  The  only  supplies  left  were  in  the  reindeer  deposits, 
which,  in  the  severity  of  the  cold,  could  scarcely  be  opened ;  and  their 
tood-noo,  without  which  the  meat  was  poor  food,  was  also  gone.    "Oil 

"  His  accoimt  of  these  metal  i)late8  is  of  interest :  "  I  have  before  me  a  lamp  with  two  wicks 
kept  constantly  burning.  The  brass  sheets  are  10  inches  each  by  5  ;  and  while  one  is  heated  the 
other,  which  has  been  made  hot,  is  under  the  leaf  on  which  I  write,  warming  it ;  this,  in  turn, 
keeps  my  lingers  warm  and  the  ink  from  freezing  in  the  pen,  and  dries  the  writing.  Changing  the 
plates  after  writing  on  each  half  a  dozen  lines,  I  am  able  to  make  up  my  journals,  the  thermom- 
eter at  my  side  showing  42°  below  the  freezing-point.     It  is  a  plan  of  my  own." 

[The  plates,  with  the  pen,  inkstand,  and  other  relics,  were  at  the  Arctic  exhibit  put  up  for 
the  United  States  Naval  Observatory  at  the  Centennial,  187().] 


march,  1865.J  Starvation  Driven  Off'.  149 

was  what  they  most  needed,  not  ordy  for  their  fire-lamps,  hut  lor 
the  human  stoves^  Ebierbing,  liowever,  was  now  again  successful 
in  the  capture  of  a  full-grown  seal  weighing  250  pounds.  Hall  went 
down  the  coast  a  half  mile,  and  attaching  a  dog-team  to  the  seal,  in 
fifteen  minutes  had  it  in  his  igloo,  and  shared  it  all  around  with  his 
friends,  including  Shoo-she-ark-nooJi.  Niik-er-zhoo  brought  in  a  load  of 
venison  from  a  distant  deposit.  Plenty  came  again.  February,  there- 
fore, closed  with  widely-extended  moss-wicks  on  all  their  fire-lamps, 
once  more  aglow ; — with  the  stomachs,  which  had  nearly  collai)sed, 
again  filled  to  repletion.  Sorrowful  faces  and  silence  then  gave  way 
to  smiles  and  to  merry  voices. 

Within  the  first  few  days  of  March,  Slioo-sJie- ark-nook  and  his 
family  made  their  long-talked-of  move  to  a  new  point  north,  half  way 
to  the  Wager  River,  expecting  to  catch  salmon  through  the  ice  and 
to  gather  supplies  of  reindeer  from  some  of  their  own  deposits.  The 
conduct  of  this  Innuit  had,  for  some  time  past,  given  uneasiness, 
small  tools  and  other  articles  which  had  disappeared  from  the  passage- 
ways usually  considered  safe,  having  been  found  in  his  igloo ;  besides 
which,  serious  apprehensions  were  renewed  that  he  was  again  persuad- 
ing the  rest  of  the  natives  to  desert  Hall.  On  parting,  however,  he 
promised  to  give  his  assistance  on  Hall's  proposed  journey  to  Repulse 
Bay ;  and,  not  long  after,  he  sent  back  to  him  a  very  acceptable 
present  of  frozen  salmon,  asking  for  tobacco,  and  receiving  it  cor- 
dially, together  with  blubber,  medicine,  and  some  food. 

Plall,  with  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too,  now  entered  a  new  igloo, 
called  the  "seventh  encampment,"  distant  120  fathoms  further  south. 
This  was  to  gratify  the  superstitious  notion  that  since  so  few  of  the 
people  now  remained  in  the  village  they  must  abandon  all  their  old 


loO  Intense  Cold.  iMnrch,  jses. 

huts,  or  failure  in  the  seal  and  walrus  hunt  niight  ensue.  The  new 
i(]!oo,  made  of  coarse-grained  blocks,  with  but  little  depth  of  snow  for 
its  floor,  was  particularly  cold  and  uncomfortable,  until  embankments 
were  thrown  uj)  outside  and  inside.  Too-koo-li-too  had  lined  it  with 
the  sail  and  jib  of  the  Sylvia  and  with  ripped-up  canvas  bags,  et 
cetera — the  et  cetera  being  chiefly  the  petticoat  which  she  had  worn 
when  in  the  United  States. 

The  oth  da^-  of  the  month  was  again  one  of  storm,  the  gale  be- 
coming almost  a  hurricane.  The  storm-wind  was  cuttingly  keen. 
Hall  wrote  in  his  journal,  "  King  Cold,  even  when  severest,  is  harm- 
less in  a  calm;  but  when  he  gets  the  winds  of  old  Boreas  and  charges 
them  with  his  mighty  power,  man  turns  his  face  for  shelter."  Taking 
the  mean  of  the  readings  of  his  ^'0"  thermometer  for  the  previous 
evening  with  the  three  of  the  day,  and  applj^ing  the  correction  of 
adding  —  7°,  which  his  experiments  with  the  mercury  had  prompted 
him  t(^  do,  he  found  the  temperature  in  the  gale  to  be  H7°  below  freez- 
ing-point. The  drift  filled  the  air  so  that  one  could  see  nothing  a  few 
fathoms  ofl',  and  yet  the  sun  peered  dimly  through  it  the  whole 
day,  so  that  the  terrific  gale  was  hugging  the  earth.  Probably  a  few 
hundred  feet  above,  all  was  sunshine.  At  night  the  feeble  rays  of  the 
moon  pierced  through  the  swiftly-moving  white  pall  which  enshrouded 
the  land. 

When  wi-iting  his  journals  now  the  greatest  difficulty  was,  not  to 
get  the  ink  but  his  thoughts  to  flow.  "When  mechanical  contrivances 
are  to  be  attended  to  every  few  moments,  and  when  King  Cold  is  con- 
tinually tlii-usting  his  stinging  needles  into  the  toes  and  fingers,  and 
fuially  chills  one  tlnough  and  through,  it  is  utterly  impossible  to  think 
with  treedom.     While  writing,  one  becomes  lost  in  a  labyrinth  of  stiff- 


march.  T*i63.]  Notwe  Moch  of  Sealing .  151 

frozen   ideas,   from  which  he    can  escape  only  by   the   most  violent 
physical  exercise." 

On  the  Gth,  after  a  protracted  and  severe  struggle  with  a  walrus 
found  sleeping  on  the  drifting  ice,  seven  miles  out,  Eliierbing  and  Nu-ker- 
zhoo,  after  freely  using  their  harpoons  and  lances,  at  last  pierced  his  neck 
with  a  well-directed  bullet.  Night  coming  on,  the  two  left  their  rifles 
on  the  ice  and  returned  to  their  huts.  The  next  day,  Hall  with  three 
of  his  friends  made  their  way  over  the  rough  sea-ice — a  temper-trying 
field  of  chaos  made  up  of  piled  blocks  of  every  conceivable  shape, 
size,  and  position,  fractured  and  raised  by  the  pressure  of  the  floes 
upon  such  ice  as  had  become  fixed.  They  found  the  creature  still  fast 
to  the  line  b}^  which  Ebierbing  had  tied  him  to  a  hummock ;  but  the 
current,  at  the  last,  swept  this  line  under  the  land-ice,  broke  it,  and 
took  from  them  their  prize.  Four  flocks  of  the  eider-duck  {Anas  mollis- 
sima)  were  seen,  which  they  estimated  contained  1,000  each,  the  males 
predominating.  Hall  notes  as  of  interest  to  naturalists,  their  winter- 
ing in  very  large  numbers  in  waters  of  such  high  latitude  as  the 
Welcome. 

The  customs  of  the  natives  in  sealing  during  the  winter  are  detailed 
as  follows : 

When  the  hunt  is  prosecuted  over  seal-holes,  no  seal  is  seen  by  the  sealer 
until  he  has  made  fast  to  it.  The  locality  of  the  hole  is  found  by  a  seal-dog  only, 
and  the  sealer  then  proceeds  to  prospect  with  the  long:  spindle  shank  of  his 
oo-nar,  piercing  the  snow  until  it  penetrates  the  exact  spot  of  the  hole  which 
leads  up  through  the  sea-ice.  Then,  with  one  eye,  a  sight  is  taken  through  this 
spindle-shank  hole,  to  determine  whether  it  is  about  the  center  of  the  seal-hole, 
as  this  is  the  point  where  the  spindle-shank  hole  must  be  located. 

When  the  seal  comes  to  this  hole  to  blow,  the  listener  prepares  himself 
for  striking  his  harpoon  vertically  through  it ;  and  on  the  second  or  third  puff 


J  52  Nu-ker-zkoo's  Seal-  Watch.  [March,  ises. 

or  blow  of  the  animal,  down  goes  a  strong  muscTilar  arm,  carrying  a  liarpoon  into 
its  head,  neck,  or  back.  When  the  seal  dives  carrying  out  the  length  of  the  line 
attached  to  the  harpoon,  the  sealer  retaining  firm  hold  of  the  other  end,  removes 
all  the  snow  from  over  the  hole,  draws  the  seal  into  it,  and  drags  him  out. 

Two  such  seal  hunts  now  followed.  On  the  8th,  Nu-ker-zlioo  took 
Hall  with  him  three  miles  out  from  the  shore  to  a  seal-hole  which  he 
had  discovered,  and  about  which  he  had  built  a  snow-wall  5  feet  in 
diameter  and  5  feet  in  height  on  the  north  side,  but  18  inches  only  on 
the  south.     This  was  for  his  protection  from  the  wind  while  watching. 

Into  this  hole,  at  the  spot  marked  on  his  previous  visit,  Nu-ker- 
zhoo  ran  a  whalebone  rod,  which,  by  striking  ice,  showed  that  some 
time  had  passed  since  the  seal  had  been  there ;  drawing  out  the  rod 
and  smelling  it,  he  whispered  ^^tepicF  (stink — hull-seal).  Returning  the 
rod  to  the  same  little  hole,  he  carefully  scraped  away  the  snow  from 
around  the  rod,  so  as  to  leave  only  about  6  inches  over  the  seal-hole. 
He  then  drew  out  the  rod  and  placed  the  end  of  the  wood-part  of  his 
oo-nar  directly  over  the  rod-hole.  Holding  this  perpendicular  with 
one  hand,  he  used  tlie  other  in  packing  snow  around  it  till  he  had 
returned  the  10  inches  of  snow  over  the  seal-hole  which  he  had 
scraped  away.  Then  the  spear-handle  was  lifted  up  gently,  which 
left  an  inch-square  hole ;  this  was  to  be  his  mark  and  guide  for  his 
liarpoon  in  striking  the  seal  as  soon  as  he  should  hear  it.  He  then 
ran  the  little  rod  down  through  the  dome  of  the  seal's  house  (or  as  it 
may  be  called  az/loo,  for  it  is  really  a  small  snow-hut)  to  determine  the 
depth  of  the  snow  over  it ;  for  it  was  on  this  his  feet  were  to  rest 
while  watching. 

The  next  thing  was  to  prepare  himself  for  spending  the  whole 
night  in  perfect  silence.     He  threw  down  a  piece  of  furred  deer-skin 


i?iarch,  1865.J  EUerUng's  Niglit-Watch.  153 

to  answer  for  a  cushion  and  to  keep  the  least  noise  made  bv  liis 
moves  from  being  communicated  to  the  snow.  Then,  to  keep  his  feet 
warm  and  close  together,  he  drew  over  them  a  short  bag  of  reindeer- 
skin  with  the  fur  inside,  and,  to  prevent  still  further  his  making  the 
least  noise  while  sitting,  or  when  he  should  rise  to  strike,  he  tied  his 
legs  together  just  below  the  knees  and  his  frock-tail  close  around  his 
body.  The  last  act  was  to  place  his  oo-nar  with  harpoon  and  line,  on 
two  pegs  carefully  stuck  into  the  snow,  on  his  right  hand  and  on  the 
left,  just  so  far  in  advance  of  him  that  when  bending  forward  he  could 
touch  the  spear.  All  was  now  ready  for  unbroken  silence.  Whisper- 
ing back  and  forward  the  word  "  Ter-hou-ee-tie"  (Good-night,)  Hall  took 
his  leave ;  for  Nu-her-zhoo  had  invited  him  to  be  his  companion  to  this 
point  only,  since  by  his  now  leaving  the  agloo  the  seal  would  suppose 
that  no  one  was  left  behind. 

The  native,  however,  failed  to  secure  a  captive,  and  returned  at 
the  end  of  a  twenty -four  hours'  watch  only  to  say  "  no  visit  had  been 
made  by  the  seal  to  his  hole  during  all  that  time."  This  had  been  his 
second  disappointment,  for  on  his  last  hunt,  when  he  heard  the  blow 
and  was  throwing  his  harpoon,  a  mitten  fell  from  his  belt  on  the  roof 
of  the  agloo,  frightening  off  the  wary  seal. 

Hall  next  accompanied  Ebierbing  to  a  seal-hole  which  he  had 
found  about  three  miles  off,  and  over  which  he  now  expected  to  watch 
during  the  night.  With  his  knife,  Ebierbing  cut  down  into  the  snow- 
covering,  repeatedly  smelling  the  snow  until  he  satisfied  himself  that 
the  seal  had  been  there  within  a  short  time.  He  then  scraped  away 
the  outside  snow  which  was  about  5  inches  thick,  down  to  the  thin, 
icy  crust  forming  the  coating  to  the  seal's  breathing-hole.  Into  this 
he  made  a  very  small  cut,  but  on  looking  through,  he  discovered  that 


154 


Ebierhing'S  Night-  Watch. 


[ITIarch,  liStiS. 


it  was  about  4  inches  on  one  side  of  the  center.  Filhng  this  up  care- 
fulK'  witli  a  small  piece  of  snow,  he  made  another  cut,  which  he  found 
to  be  central.  A  small  hair  from  his  Ixoo-li-tang  (outer  reindeer-frock) 
having"  fallen  very  near  the  hole  he  had  made,  he  at  once  stoj)ped, 
and  Avith  the  greatest  care  removed  it,  remarking  to  Hall  that  the  seal 

would  ''smell  um  quick,  and  away 
it  go."  Then  cutting  a  block  of 
snow  an  inch  square  and  8  inches 
long,  he  set  it  up  over  the  last  hole, 
and  filled  in  about  it  with  loose 
snow,  leaving  3  inches  of  it  above 
the  surface  for  a  mark  by  which  to 
direct  his  harpoon  when  the  time 
came  to  strike.  Seated  on  a  single 
snow-block,  with  his  back  to  the 
southwest  wind,  he  tied  his  clothes 
about  him,  as  already  noted  in 
Nu-ker-zhod's  case,  and  commenced 
his  weary  watch.  He  did  not, 
however,   build    a   wall    around   the 

EBIERBIXG  GOING   OUT  ON   HIS  HUNT.  ^^^^^^^    telhug    Hall    that   hls   OWU    COUU" 

trymen  at  Cumberland  Gulf  did  not  do  this  for  fear  of  frightening  the 
animal  by  the  noise  made  in  putting  it  up.  Hall  left  him  to  his  lonely 
watch,  the  temperature  of  the  air  being  —  34°.  Joe  was  as  unfor- 
tunate an  Nu-ker-zhoo  in  having  no  visit  from  the  seal  to  his  hole;  but 
he  shot  one  in  the  open  water,  yet  found  it  impossible  to  secure  it. 

The  Aneroid  indicated,  on  the  10th,  a  fall  of  4 J  tenths  of  an  inch. 
TIk'  wind  again  blew  with  almost  the  force  of  a  hurricane,  and  one 


iHnrcit,  1865.]  Renetved  Apprehensions  of  Want.  155 

could  scarcely  see  an  object  at  arms-leng-th  through  the  (b-ift.  The 
Innuits  made  no  attempts  to  leave  their  huts,  and  Hall,  though  suc- 
ceeding in  getting  his  thermometers  from  the  outside  of  his  own, 
could  read  them  only  under  its  lee.  It  cost  him  three  severe  expos- 
ures to  find  them,  but  seizing  one  after  another  he  worked  himself 
back  with  them  on  his  hands  and  knees. 

The  unsuccessful  hunts  were  trying  to  all.  Even  a  fox  escaped 
them,  coming  unharmed  through  a  pack  of  the  dogs  w^hich  did  no 
more  than  stare  at  it.  "Had  it  been  a  polar  bear  or  a  musk-ox,  they 
w^ould  have  been  all  life,  vigor,  and  teeth."  In  the  absence  of  the  men, 
Too-koo-li-too  gave  chase,  but  her  spear  failed  to  reach  the  prey. 

The  want  of  blubber  for  light  and  heat  gave  great  uneasiness, 
and  provisions  were  again  nearly  exhausted,  when,  on  the  14th,  Nu-ker- 
zhoo^s  sister,  Tuk-too,  brought  in  on  a  sled  from  an  abandoned  igloo 
a  few  old  reindeer  heads  and  legs,  which  had  been  cast  aside  out  of 
the  reach  of  the  dogs  for  just  such  a  time  of  want.  These  were  soon 
made  to  give  up  every  particle  of  their  life-sustaining  substance, 
whether  of  putrid  brains,  the  now  bitter  marrow,  the  hard  fibers, 
tougher  sinews,  or  the  few  remaining  patches  of  skin  around  the  noses 
and  hoofs.  To  crack  the  reindeer-bones  by  an  iron  tool  during  the 
walrus  season  was  against  Innuit  law,  yet  Ebierbing  ingeniously 
escaped  censure  by  holding  the  hatchet  only,  while  Hall  struck  the 
bones  across  its  face. 

The  times  were  dark  enough.     The  journal  says. 

How  cheerless  is  our  igloo!  The  moss  wick  of  our  lamp,  which,  when  we 
have  our  full  supply  of  blubber,  gives  a  continuity  of  flame  of  2  feet  G  inches,  is 
narrowed  down  to  a  simple  wick  point,  and  makes  the  gloom  more  dismal  tliau 
total  darkness.    Long  and  cast  down  faces  are  now  faintly  seen  that  otherwise 


If) 6  Food  and  Fuel  Renewed.  [March,  ises. 

■would  l)e  veiled  IVoiii  us.  Our  huts  are  sad,  our  voices  almost  hu.slied!  But 
away,  away,  thou  lieiid  of  Despair !  This  is  no  home  for  you.  We  are  the  children 
iif  Hope.  Prayer,  aud  Work.     God  is  our  father,  ami  better  times  will  come. 

Hall  had  been  busily  writing  letters  to  the  Journal  of  Commerce, 
and  the  New  York  Herald,  and  to  friends  at  home;  but  he  had  to  di-op 
the  pen  for  the  rifle,  to  get  food. 

On  the  16th  he  hopefully  led  out  his  company  to  the  walrus- 
grounds,  with  dogs  and  sledge,  across  the  rugged  ice  of  the  Welcome. 
Too-koo-li-too,  as  usual,  had  been  up,  tlie  first  of  the  part}^,  giving 
notice  there  was  little  wind,  and  that,  from  the  northeast:  and  Hall, 
feeling,  he  says  he  knew  not  why,  that  before  night  they  would 
have  success  in  the  hunt,  took  out  with  him  all  hands,  including  Ar- 
too-a,  who,  through  his  own  necessities,  had  returned  to  the  village. 
They  secured  one  great  seal  and  a  large  walrus,  and  made  a  deposit  of 
them  until  the  following  day. 

At  G.45  a.  m.  of  the  17th,  in  the  midst  of  a  furious  snow-storm, 
tlie\'  started  to  retrace  the  path  of  this  hunt  over  a  seemingly  end- 
less extent  of  hummocks,  and  by  3.30  p  m.  were  back  safe  in  Hall's 
if/Ioo.  Their  sled  was  demolished,  their  shins  badly  scarred,  and  their 
temper  "nearly  about  broken  into  cursing  an  icy  world  in  general"; 
b)it,  having  now  a  good  supply  of  food  and  fuel.  Hall  wrote  ^^  Heaven 
he  praised!^'  He  was  able,  chiefly  through  Ebierbing's  industry  and 
skill,  not  only  to  help  some  of  those  who  had  lately  left  him  and  were 
jK.w  ill  want,  hut  to  send  to  Captain  Chapel  a  large  piece  of  the  ook- 
ffooL,  to  he  (li\i(l(Ml  uinong  the  five  captains.  The  temperature  was 
beginning  to  be  less  severe,  the  thermometer  rising  at  midday  to 
10°.  Some  snow  was  taken  off  from  the  embankments  outside  of  the 
igloos.     ]'(.«m1,  light,  and  warmth  were  again  within. 


.iiarcii,  ]8(i3.i  TrttcMng  the  Bear.  157 

On  tlio  20th,  Nu-her-zlioo  left  the  village  lor  ji  third  visit  to  tlie 
whalers,  bearing-  letters  to  Captains  Chapel  niid  Tyson,  with  others  to 
be  forwarded  to  Mr.  Grinnell  and  Mr.  Brevoort.  Two  days  afterward, 
a  conple  of  Nu-ker-^hoo' s  dogs  ran  back  to  the  village  in  fnll  luirness, 
their  trace-lines  appearing  to  have  been  cut,  as  is  usual  on  sighting  a 
ni-noo.  At  such  a  time  the  dogs  are  put  in  full  chase,  and  when  within 
a  hundred  fathoms  or  so  of  this  game,  the  driver  cuts  the  trace-line  of 
the  leader,  and  then  in  a  few  moments  the  trace  of  the  next  dog,  and 
so  on,  until  all  are  free  from  the  sledge.  The  dogs,  as  their  lines  are 
cut,  bound  away  for  ni-noo,  and  soon  bring  him  to  bay,  when  the 
hunter  prepares  himself  as  best  he  can  for  his  encounter  with  the 
ferocious  beast. 

In  company  with  Ebierbing,  a  few  days  afterward.  Hall  himself 
came  upon  the  tracks  of  a  mother  bear  and  cub  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  coast,  and  followed  them  until  they  were  lost  in  a  belt  of  freshly- 
broken  ice.  He  notes  that  the  custom  of  the  Innuits  on  first  sighting 
the  tracks  of  the  bear,  the  musk-ox,  or  the  reindeer,  is  to  feel  them, 
closely  placing  the  fingers  here  and  there  on  the  raised,  or,  rather,  less 
impressed  parts  of  the  snow.  In  this  way  the  hunter  determines  liow 
long  they  have  been  made,  and  if  they  are  fresh,  he  goes  in  for  a 
vigorous  chase.  Hall  and  Ebierbing  on  their  chase  could  readily 
discriminate  between  the  leisurely-made  steps  of  the  mother  and  her 
young,  the  halt  which  she  made  to  nurse  her  cub,  and  her  irregular 
shuffling  gallop  when,  on  scenting  a  seal,  she  must  have  changed  her 
sluggish  gait  to  the  quick  trot  of  a  polar  under  full  headwa}^ 

During  the  rest  of  the  month  the  temperature  continued  to  mod- 
erate. On  the  27th,  with  a  reading  of  32°.5,  fur-dresses  became 
uncomfortable;  the  fall  of  snow  did  not  exceed  five  inches,  and  the 
walrus  and  seal  were  found  to  be  more  plentiful  in  open  water.     While 


!/-,§  A  Proposed  Survey  iwarch,  ises. 

watfliino-  for  them,  Hall  himself  was  at  one  time  exposed  to  the  most 
imminent  dan^^er  of  his  life  by  the  opening  of  the  floes.  He  records 
in  his  notes  his  thanks  for  preservation  and  his  purpose  to  exercise 
greater  caution. 

For  a  number  of  reasons  now  forced  upon  him,  he  unwillingly  came 
to  the  conclusion  that  his  anticipations  of  disappointment  in  obtaining 
dogs  and  })ruvisions  for  a  spring  journey  toward  King  William's  Land, 
would  be  more  than  contirmed.  The  season  advancing  while  he  was 
still  so  far  from  Repulse  Bay,  it  would  be  as  much  as  he  could  accom- 
}»lish  while  making  his  vo^^age  there,  to  stand  by  his  boat  and  stores, 
his  personal  protection  of  which  had  become  clearly  an  absolute  ne- 
cessity. The  dispersion  of  the  Innuii,s  seemed  to  prove  that  perhaps 
litth^  reliance  could  be  placed  on  their  help.  He  therefore  began  to 
lay  his  })lans  for  an  early  move  with  his  boat  to  the  bay;  yet,  under 
the  delays  even  for  this,  which  were  plainly  before  him,  he  eontem- 
]jlated  a  useful  work  of  which  he  thus  speaks: 

I  liiive  beeu  tliiukiug  that  perhaps  I  can  do  no  better  than  to  survey  and 
chart  tlie  west  coast  line  of  the  Welcome,  commencing  a  few  miles  to  the  south- 
ward of  this  point,  and  thence  up  to  Wager  Bay;  and  then  do  the  same  with  the 
Bay.  I  regret  I  liave  not  a  light  theodolite,  a  very  essential  instrument  for  such 
work  as  surveying  in  these  parts,  when  the  compass  is  of  no  use  whatever.  At 
l»resent  1  sec  no  otlicr  way  than  to  do  it  all  with  sextant,  determining  latitudes  of 
the  iiion-  iiii|i()ri;iiit  ]M»ints  astronomically,  and  taking  solar  bearings  from  one 
)»<»int  tu  another :  tlic  intermediate  indentations  of  coast  being  examined  and 
cliarted  as  best  1  can.  Altliough  this  work  and  very  much  more  around  Hudson's 
15ay  ncc.ls  to  l.c  done,  and  done  well,  if  at  all,  yet  I  have  not  the  heart  to  do  it, 
loi  it  is  old  ground,  an  ancient  discovery  without  survey.  Give  me  the  means 
and  i  will  not  only  diseo\ei-  the  North  Pole,  but  survey  all  the  land  I  might  find 
between  Kane's  farthest  and  it,  and  have  my  whole  soul  in  the  icorh. 

Hi-  liialth  at  tiiis  time  was  far  from  being  strong.     He  had  suffered 

much  In. Ill  the  very  severe  exposures  to  which  he  had  been  subjected, 

and  parti<'ularly  (»ii  the  da\   when  lie  ha<l  been  in  imminent  dang-er  of 


.Tiarch,  1863.]  Reficwed  Plans.  159 

his  life  while  out  on  the  ice-floes  walrusing"  with  Joe.  But  his  chief 
ailment  was  a  sharp  and  severe  pain  in  his  left  breast,  arising-  from  the 
strained  and  uruiatural  position  which  he  was  obliged  to  take  when 
writing  his  journals.  "Of  all  the  work  ever  accomplished  in  the  north- 
ern regions,  nothing  had  done  him  the  one  hundredth  ])art  of  the 
injury  which  journalizing  did." 

So  far  as  he  found  it  possible  under  the  circumstances  to  form  any 
matured  plan  for  his  advance,  he  sketched  a  rough  outline  including 
the  points: — that  on  arriving  at  Repulse  Bay  he  must  establish  his 
headquarters  and  go  in  with  his  company  of  Innuits  for  reindeer- 
hunting  to  lay  up  a  stock  of  provision  for  the  following  winter;  that 
during  the  winter  (1865-66)  he  would  make  a  sledge  journey  to 
Boothia  Felix  and  King  William's  Land,  and  be  on  band  for  summer 
work  in  the  latter  of  these;  that  he  would  spend  the  winter  of  1866-67 
with  the  Innuits  of  Boothia  Felix,  many  of  whom  really  winter  near 
King  William's  Land:  and  having  completed,  as  he  hoped,  all  his 
work,  by  the  summer  of  1867  he  would  be  ready  for  home. 

When  writing  of  this  to  Chapel,  of  the  Monticello,  he  said : 

Eemember  that  I  purj)ose  to  go  to  that  ])art  of  the  world  Avhere  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  choicely  picked  men — the  very  flower  of  the  English  Xavy — all 
perished,  save  three,  in  one  short  month  or  so  by  cold  and  .starvation.  I  cannot 
accomplish  what  I  have  nndertaken  except  by  the  greatest  caution.  I  and  my 
companions  may  never  return,  though  I  do  not  entertain  the  thought  that  such  an 
event  is  probable.  There  is  more  to  be  feared  that  we  may  fall  by  the  treachery 
of  the  evil  disposed  portion  of  the  natives  than  by  cold  and  starvation;  but  as  I 
shall  make  deposits  of  records  at  TJepulse  Bay  and  at  other  places,  and  shall 
describe  how  they  can  be  found,  if  we  do  perish,  the  world  can  still  learn  what  I 
have  accomplished. 

The  necessity  for  his  delay  after  he  should  reach  Repulse  Bay, 

arose  from  the  fact  that  it  would  be  entirely  too  late  on  his  arrival 


IGo  Ou-e-Ja  Returns  from  Depot  Island.  [Aprii.  ises. 

there  for  aiiv  sledge  journey.  It  will  be  found  that  his  anticipations 
of  an\'  treachery  on  the  part  of  his  companions  were  far  from  being 
realized.  He  was  able  to  company  with  them  safely  through  the  long 
delays  of  live  years. 

The.  movements  of  the  different  parties  of  Innuits  toward  the 
AVager  were  now  dictated  by  their  necessity  for  a  change  of  residence 
to  obtain  the  supplies  which  the  opening  season  promised  from  the 
capture  of  salmon  and  the  seal.  These  movements,  as  would  be  ex- 
pected, were  fitful  and  the  journeys  generally  slow.  Hall's  entire 
dependence  on  them  is  sufficiently  obvious ;  and  it  is  satisfactory  to 
find  in  his  journals  that  any  temporary  break  in  the  exercise  of  that 
mutual  good  feeling  which  was  to  him  a  necessity,  was  soon  healed. 
His  friends,  the  captains  at  the  islands,  had  rendered  him  good  assist- 
ance toward  this,  by  exhorting  Ou-e-la  on  his  protracted  visit  to  give 
on  his  return  better  counsels  to  his  people.  This  he  seems  to  have 
iaitlifully  done. 

He  surprised  Hall  on  the  1st  day  of  the  month  by  coming  in 
ujjoii  liini  in  his  igloo  with  his  wife  and  a  sled  which  he  had  heavily 
loaded  up  from  a  deposit  twenty  miles  down  the  Welcome,  "^^rhe 
rough  working  of  this  sled  over  the  ice  had  made  him  perspire  very 
freely,  l)ut  he  at  once  called  for  repeated  draughts  of  water,  on 
Hall's  remonstrating  against  which,  Ebierbing  said  that  quart  after 
(piart  iie\er  hurt  an  Eskimo  when  perspiring.  Ou-e-la  brought  with 
nuuli  news  from  Captain  Chapel,  the  luxuries  of  some  ship-bread  and 
half  a  dozen  mince-pies;  he  also  brought  a  large-sized  neit-yuk,  seal 
(Phocd  htsp'iiln).  Room  in  the  igloos  was  readily  made  for  the  new- 
comers, whose  hrst  meal  with  their  friends  was  again  ruled  by  Innuit 
custom.     Ou-c-la  had  eaten  venison  in  the  morning ;  he  could  not  now 


April,  1865.1  A   Gale.  IGl 

eat  seal ;  his  friends  liad  eaten  seal,  and  must  be  content  witli  more 
of  the  same  for  supper.  Tlie  next  morning's  comfort,  however,  was 
improved  by  a  sociable  breakfast  by  all  hands  on  boiled  salmon. 
Ebierbing-  brought  in  during  the  day  two  Arctic  9-pound  hares, 
wliich  Hall  weighed  by  balancing  them  with  bullets  the  weight  of 
which  he  ]s:new  to  be  fift3^-two  to  the  pound.  A  mutual  instruction 
class  seems  to  have  been  then  unintentionall}'-  formed  among  the 
party  housed  by  the  gale.  Ou-e-la  spent  mucli  time  in  confirming 
what  had  been  previously  more  than  once  asserted  by  his  people,  that 
trees  were  certainly  to  be  seen  growing  on  Shar-too  (Prince  of  Wales 
Island),  and  that  between  Wager  River  and  Boothia  a  species  of  soap- 
stone  used  in  making  the  native  lamps  and  kettles  (the  Lapis  ollaris) 
is  to  be  found  in  abundance.  Hall,  on  his  side,  gained  their  attention 
while  correcting  their  crude  ideas  of  the  motions  of  tlie  sun,  moon, 
and  stars ;  like  all  other  Innuits,  they  believed  that  these  moved 
daily  around  the  earth. 

On  the  4th,  the  lowest  reading  of  the  thermometer  was  57° 
below  freezing-point.  A  southeast  gale,  which  prevailed  from  the 
5th  to  the  Sth,  is  noted  in  connection  with  expressions  of  sympath}- 
for  Franklin's  men  in  the  terrible  sufferings  which  they  must  have 
endured  if  in  their  weak  state  overtaken  by  sucli  a  storm  on  tlieir 
fated  way  to  Montreal  Island.  The  thermometer  during  this  gale 
showed  a  mean  temperature  of  —  18*^  and  a  minimum  of  —  30"^.  For 
ten  hours,  however,  two  of  the  natives  remained  out  unflinchingly  to 
bring  in  reindeer-carcasses  at  nightfall. 

Hall's  igloo  was  the  headquarters  for  fresh  meat.  Tlie}^  were  all 
still  living  on  an  ook-gook  which  Ebierbing  shot  on  the  16th  of  the 
month  previous ;  and  it  is  again  to  be  noted  that  he  was  the  chief 
S.  Ex.  27 11 


162  The  Tides.  lAprii,  ises. 

hunter  for  tlie  village.  He  was  the  only  Iiinuit  who  had  as  yet  shot 
a  seal  in  the  open  water  But  Hall  knew  that  he  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  this  for  years,  and  felt  satisfied  that  if  Joe  kept  his  health, 
there  need  be  no  fear  but  that  he  would  secure  enough  provision  to 
keep  eight  or  ten  hearty  men  in  good  working  condition. 

The  full  opportunities  which  now  offered  themselves  for  observ- 
mfr  the  tides  in  the  Welcome,  led  to  the  conclusion  that  their  true  direc- 
tion  differs  from  that  spoken  of  by  N.  West  Fox,  who  explored  the  strait 
in  1631,  and  by  other  earlier  as  well  as  later  explorers.  The  flood- 
tide  was  found  to  set  in  from  the  south,  while  the  ebb  comes  from  the 
north.  The  Eskimos  say  that  below  the  Wager,  oo-lee-po-ke  (flood- 
tide)  comes  from  the  south,  and  tin-ne-i^o-ke  (ebb-tide)  comes  from  the 
north  ;  while  above  the  river  the  reverse  is  found. 

The  tides  in  Hudson's  Bay,  Hall  remembered,  were  admitted  to 
be  inconsistent  with  general  rules.     He  had  read  that — 

TNlien  it  was  discovered  that  at  Eesolution  Island,  lying  at  its  entrance,  the 
tide  wii.s  full  30  feet  at  full  and  change  of  moon ;  less  and  less  as  advance  is 
made  westward  ;  only  G  feet  at  Gary  Swan's  Kest,  on  the  south  of  Southampton 
Island ;  hut  thonce  to  tlie  west  side  of  Hudson  Strait  higher  and  higher,  and 
the  furtlier  an  advance  is  made  north,  still  increasing: — it  was  concluded  that 
tbere  must  be  some  strait  or  passage  connecting  the  west  side  of  the  bay  to  a 
western  ocean  or  the  South  Sea. 

The  move  toward  the  Wager  and  thence  to  Repulse  Bay  was  now 
begun.  i)\\  the  10th,  Ou-e-la  and  his  family,  with  some  of  Hall's  stores, 
started  an  ith  a  large  team  toward  the  Wager  River,  followed  by  every 
remaining  one  of  the  company  except  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too, 
who  still  domiciled  with  Hall.  His  igho,  which  up  to  this  time  had 
l)oen  so  (jfton  crowded  by  men,  women,  and  children,  and  dogs,  was 
now  lelt  free,  giving  him  the  enjoyment  of  some  repose  for  Avriting. 


April,  1865.]  Hall  Moves  toward  the  Wager.  163 

Ar-movJs  sled  had  on  it  his  whale-boat  presented  by  the  captains  of 
the  ships,  which  was  28  feet  in  length,  with  (j  feet  beam,  and  2J  feet 
depth.  Besides  this  boat,  with  its  oars  and  rigging,  the  sled  held 
household  utensils  and  provision;  yet  the  team  was  made  up  of  but 
six  dogs.  Nu-ker-zlioo  had  but  two  dogs  and  a  puppy  for  a  load  usu- 
ally requiring  a  team  of  eight ;  but  the  journey  before  them  prom- 
ised to  be  over  comparatively  smooth  and  hard  snow.  Ver}^  soon 
Ar-mou  stopped  his  team  and  gave  each  of  his  dogs  a  most  unmerci- 
ful thrashing  ''just  to  warm  them  up  and  prepare  them  for  their  hard 
work." 

Four  days  after  they  left  him,  and  while  Hall  and  Ebierbing  were 
in  their  igloo  finishing  their  own  packing,  they  heard  the  cry  of  dogs, 
and  soon  after,  the  sound  of  their  pattering  feet  and  the  music  of  the 
sleds  gliding  over  the  crisp  snow.  Unharnessed  dogs  then  came  bound- 
ing into  the  igloo,  seizing  whatever  had  the  appearance  of  meat  or  skin; 
hunger  had  made  them  fiends,  and  blows  from  a  club  or  hatchet  that 
would  have  killed  an  ordinary  dog  were  necessary  to  save  what 
remained  of  the  f)rovender.  Their  masters,  Oii-e-la  and  Ar-too-a,  next 
appeared,  and  it  was  evident  that  Ou-e-la  had  brought  his  companions 
to  a  better  mind  toward  Hall,  for  they  joined  cordially  in  loading  up 
the  stores  and  assisting  him  to  start. 

In  the  afternoon,  after  journeying  over  compact  snow  14J  miles 
in  a  direction  north-northwest  from  the  last  encampment,  Hall  came 
to  the  new  settlement  already  made  by  the  advanced  parties  on  a  lake- 
let, and  was  warmly  received.  By  meridian  observation  of  the  sun, 
the  latitude  of  this  "eighth  encampment"  was  found  to  be  G4°  55' 
1 9"  N.  On  the  lake  were  seen  a  number  of  snow-walls,  measuring 
each  nearly  two-thirds  of  a  circle  of  from  four  to  five  feet  in  diameter 


1  (]4  Arrival  at  the  River.  [April,  ises. 

aiul  the  same  in  height.  The  concave  sides  of  these  facing  south 
were  slieltering  the  women  and  children  while  fishing  for  salmon 
through  the  openings  which  the  men  had  cut. 

Ar-too-a's  wife,  being  seized  with  a  fit,  was  surrounded  by  her 
friends  who  were  about  giN  ing  her  up,  when  Hall  succeeded  in  restor- 
ing- her  h\  the  use  of  medicine,  completing  the  cure  on  her  second 
attack.  I'^bierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too  sufi'ered  from  severe  colds 
which  tliev  took  during  tlie  warm  days,  on  one  of  which  the  tempera- 
ture was  as  high  as  33°. 5.  The  freedom  from  colds  among  the  natives 
was  generally  so  marked  that  they  attributed  what  discomfort  they 
had  to  their  having  caught  colds  from  the  white  men  on  their  visit  to 
tlie  ships.  On  the  24th,  Hall's  party  moved  to  his  ninth  igloo,  and  on 
the  next  day  the  boats  were  sent  forward  to  gain  a  position  near 
Wager  River.  The  half-starved  dogs  were  so  ferocious  as  to  be  almost 
unmanageable,  but  their  loads  were  borne  forward  by  the  help  of  a 
sail,  rigged  lug-fashion  and  spread  to  the  southerly  winds.  They 
moved  rapidly  along.  On  the  journey,  Too-koo-li-too  caught  "a  whale 
of  a  salmon"  weighing  more  than  15  pounds.  It  was  37 J  inches  long 
and  20  inches  in  cu'cumference,  a  ^^  Jonah''''  13  inches  long  being  found 
within  it. 

Traveling  again  over  the  hard  snow  which  covered  the  long 
narrow  lakelets  and  the  small  space  of  land  between  them,  the  party 
iiiaih-  exceHent  time  through  this  highway  between  the  rocks,  which 
had  Ijceii  long  known  and  frequented  by  the  natives.  Five  heavily- 
loaded  sleds  jjiished  forward,  men,  women,  and  children  being  har- 
nessed to  each  to  assist  the  dogs,  and  on  the  29th  the  party  went  into 
huts  on  the  ic<'  of  tlic  Wager,  lat.  C5°  19'  N,  long.  88°  40'  W.  The 
severely  cold,  cloudy,  and  haz}-  weather  had  produced  snow-blind- 
ness, with  w  hich  (^ven  El)ierbing  had  become  affected. 


Chapter  VT. 


FROM   THE   WAGER  TO   FORT   HOPE. 

MAY  TO  SEPTEMBER,  1865. 


CHATTER  VI. 


The  tiiiuteenth  encampment  made  upon  the  Wagek  Eiver— A  successful  sealing  season — 
Hall's  own  ppvIze— Eejoicings  at  the  first  success  of  a  young  Innuit— Customs  at 
the  birth  of  an  infant— Moving  from  kong-mongs  into  tu-piks — Appearance  of  the 
deserted  village — Aurora — Journey  to  Eepulse  Bay — Eefraction — Encampment 

ON -OOG-LA-RIO-YOUR  ISLAND— OU-E-LA'S  DEXTERITY  IN  HUNTING — GaSIE  SECURED— TlIlC 
MAKING  OF  OOK-GOOK  LINES— CLEARING  OUT  OF  THE  ICE — APPEARANCE  OF  THE  WHALERS 

IN  THE  Welcome — Effraction- Storm — Treatment  of  the  dogs— The  tides — Death 
of  Shoo-she-ark-nook— Mourning  customs — Eenewed  appearance  of  wilvlers  in 
Eepulse  Bay — Capture  of  a  whale  by  the  crews  of  Hall's  boats — Encampment 
near  Fort  Hope  of  Dr.  Eae — Hall's  notes  of  the  rocks,  stones,  and  sand  found  on 
the  ice  compared  with  Parry's  observations. 

At  the  end  of  nine  weary  months  Hall  had  now  but  reached  the 
place  on  which  he  had  expected  to  make  his  first  landing.  His 
encampment  was  next  made  on  the  ice  out  in  the  Wager.  Its  astro- 
nomical ])osition  when  recorded,  was  followed  by  a  note  of  the  accu- 
rate judgment  shown  at  the  time  by  Ou-e-la  and  Ar-too-a  ''in  keeping 
in  their  mind's  eye  so  approximately  the  direction  of  distant  points." 
When  separately  directing  the  compass  at  Hall's  request  toward  Noo- 
wooJc,  sixty-two  miles  distant,  they  pointed  it  in  lines  differing  but  one 
degree;  and  on  Hall's  applying  the  correction  for  declination,  he  found 
the  bearing  nearly  agreeing  with  his  own  result. 

On  the  3d  of  the  month  the  party  witnessed  a  fine  auroral  dis- 
play in  the  western  sky ;  the  color  was  nearly  a  medium   between 


167 


168  HaWs  First  Cajdure.  rway,  isos. 

silver  and  cream;  tlie  rays  active  and  cliang-eable;  the  sun  was  about 
one  degree  above  the  Wager  s  ice  horizon,  making  the  fleecy  clouds 
brightly  aglow.  Tlie  hour  was  8.20  p.  m.  The  temperature  for  a 
number  of  days  remained  low,  the  readings  being  37°  and  even  42° 
below  freezing-point. 

Sealing,  however,  soon  began  to  prove  successful.  Nu-ker-zlwo^ 
with  one  stroke,  harpooned  a  mother  that  had  on  her  back  a  pup  3  feet 
o  inches  in  length,  and  on  which  the  hair  was  beginning  to  take  the 
place  of  its  white  woolly  coat.  Shortly  after  this,  five  other  seals  were 
taken.  Under  the  guidance  of  the  Innuits,  and  with  the  help  of  his 
(»\vn  capital  seal-dog  Ou-e-Ia,  on  the  5th,  Hall  made  his  own  first  but 
valued  prize,  a  neit-yitJc,  weighing  200  pounds.  Finding  himself 
among  the  busy  sealers  on  the  ice,  he  soon  heard  Nu-ker-zlioo  calling 
him  to  the  seal-hole  at  which  he  was;  and  seating  himself  on  a  snow- 
block  over  the  unseen  hole,  and  there  listening  intently  and  scarcely 
moving  a  limb  for  one  full  hour,  at  last  he  heard  a  softly-breathing 
noise  beneath  the  snow.  Raising  himself  then  cautiously  to  his  feet, 
which  rested  on  the  furred  took-too  skin,  and  with  his  right  hand  pois- 
ing his  oo-nar  over  the  spot  that  Nu-ker-zlioo  had  imprinted  in  the  snow 
o\er  the  seal-hole,  with  his  full  force  he  drove  the  spear  vertically 
down,  and  instantly  found  that  the  blow  was  a  telling  one.  The  coil 
of  the  seal-line  held  in  his  left  hand,  began  at  once  to  run  out;  in  fact, 
tin-  whole  of  it  was  at  first  jerked  out  of  his  hand.  But  "quick  as  a 
flash,"  he  says  : 

I  s(.'iz(Ml  it  a^aiii,  or  I  ^vould  have,  lost  iny  prize,  as  well  as  the  harpoon  and 
liiK".  'V\\v  scaleis  far  and  near  saw  that  1  was  last  to  a  seal,  and  although  1 
(  alNW  lo  \ii  J:rr-:lioo/^Jcietc!  Iciete!^^ — come  here!  come  here! — there  was  no  neces- 
sity Un-  it,  lor  Ih-Iopc  I  uttered  a  word  he  and  all  the  others  were  making  their  way 
to  inc.     II;i«l  I  can;,'!!!  a  whale,  there  could  not  have  been  more  surprised  and 


May,  1S65. 


Comjrutidalions. 


1G9 


happy  .souls  tliaii  were  these   Inmiits  on  liiulinj;-  I   was   really  fast  to  a  seal. 

Laiij^hter,  hilarity,  joyous  ringing-  voices  abounded.     Almost  the  last  Innnit  Avho 

arrived  to  congratulate  me  was  my  good  friend  Ou-e-la,  act;omi)anied  by  his  dog, 

dragging   a   seal    which   he  liad  Just 

captured.     Last  ot  all  came  the  young 

ladies,  Tul-too  and  XoH'-?/e/',  with  dogs 

and  sledge,  and  a  seal  which  Ar-mou 

had  taken  a  liftle  while  before.     All 

this  time  nobody  had  seen  my  seal, 

for  it  was  flipping  away  down  in  salt 

Avater  beneath  the  snow  and  ice  of 

AVager  River,  still  fast  to  one  en<l  of 

my  line  while  I  held  on  to  the  other. 

Nu-l^er-zhoOj    with     his    pelong   (long 

knife),  then  cut  away  the  snow,  two 

feet  in  depth  covering  the  seal-hole, 

and    removing    still    more  with    my 

sj^ear,  he  chiseled  away  the  ice-lining 

just  above  the  hole.     Soon  the  seal 

came   up    to   breathe,  and    then    the 

death-blow  was  given  to  it  by  a  thrust  innuit  hakpoon-ukads. 

of  the  spindle  of  the  spear  directly  into  the  thin  skull.     The  jirize  was  drawn 

forth — a  larger  seal  than  either  Ou-e-lah  or  Ar-monh.     Again  the  air  resounded 

with  shouts  and  joyous  laughter. 

It  was  tlie  first  case  among  them  of  a  white  man's  success  in  har- 
pooning. 

The  party  of  fourteen  immediately  cut  out  the  Hver  and  a  little 
of  the  blubber  of  each  seal  for  their  lunch,  and  carefully  sewed  np  the 
slits,  that  none  of  the  blood,  so  valued  for  soui),  shonld  lu'  lost.  They 
then  buried  the  animals  in  the  snow,  to  prevent  their  skins  from  blis- 
tering in  the  sun's  rays,  and  still  further  prosecuted  the  hunt,  dragging 
to  their  kom-mongs  in  the  evening  seven  seals,  the  average  weight  of 
which  was  200  pounds  each.  From  that  date,  the  living  was  on  seid- 
meat  exclusively  for  a  number  of  days.     It  was  a  fair  exchange  for 


170  The  Kipe-kut-ta  [may,  ises. 

the  koo-mucks  (worms  picked  from  the  reindeer-carcasses),  the  soup 
from  which  the  Innuits  had  been  enjoying.  They  eat  these  even 
when  their  wings  begin  to  form. 

For  Hall's  fatm-e  success  in  sealing,  Ow-e-/amade  him  a  kipe-kut-ta, 
a  little  rod  of  whalebone,  about  the  size  of  a  common  knitting-needle, 
about  30  inches  long,  and  pointed  with  a  small  sewing-needle,  the  other 
end  liaving  a  thin  string,  2  feet  in  length,  to  which  is  attached  a  peg. 
This  was  for  a  seal-signal,  particularly  to  be  used  in  windy  weather 
when  it  is  difficult  to  hear  the  breathing  of  the  seal,  or  when  the  snow- 
covering  of  its  hole  is  ver}^  deep.  When  the  animal  approaches  its 
hole  to  blow  or  breathe,  it  will  strike  its  head  or  neck  against  the 
needle-point  and  lift  the  slender  and  light  kipe-kut-ta,  slackening  the 
.'String;  this  is  the  signal  for  the  huntsman  to  deal  his  blow.  This  nee- 
dle is  used  only  when  really  necessary ;  for  if  the  seal  strike  its  nose 
or  any  tender  part  of  its  face  against  the  point,  it  may  become 
alarmed;  or  if  the  instrument  should  happen  to  chafe  against  the  snow 
so  as  to  produce  a  noise,  the  wary  animal  will  at  once  become  sus- 
picious and  retreat.  Sometimes  the  sealer  has  an  advantage  in  its  use 
when  the  seal,  almost  exhausted,  is  forced  to  gain  access  to  the  air 
even  at  the  expense  of  its  fears.  Hall  afterward  used  his  signal-rod 
twice,  ))ut  without  any  good  fortune. 

Before  the  middle  of  the  month  success  in  the  hunt  had  so  in- 
creased that  ten  seals  were  caught  on  a  single  da)^  At  this  time,  as  fast 
us  ])n»u;ilit  in.  tliey  were  devoured,  save  the  ook-sook  (blubber).  "  It  is 
a.stouishing,  even  to  me,  to  see  the  vast  amount  of  meat  that  a  company 
<.f  Tiiimits  can  consume.  They  can  live  on  little  if  little  is  all  they 
have;  they  do  live  on  a  great  deal  if  abundance  is  obtained." 

Hall  rclisliccl  venison  even  when  much  tainted,  though  bread  and 


May,  1S63.I  Tltc  FtTst  Sccil  Ciuujkt  b/j  (i   loufig  Innait.  171 

coffee  were  welcome  adjuncts.  He  thought  young  seal-flippers,  hair 
and  all  except  the  finger-nails,  tender  and  nice  as  a  spring-chicken ; 
but  of  his  experience,  generally,  of  the  effects  of  old  seal  and  walrus 
meat,  he  says  that  for  days  after  eating  it,  his  tongue  tasted  badly,  as 
though  it  were  much  furred,  and  that  seal-meat  alone  or  seal-meat  with 
blubber  is  terrible  on  a  white  man — excessively  constipating.  On 
the  Innuits  the  effect  is  less  serious.  Cooked  seal-blood  when  eaten 
becomes  equivalent  to  the  "^apjpm"  of  the  she  polar  bear,  which  it 
produces  by  eating  moss  preceding  hibernation ;  indeed,  it  amounts 
almost  to  an  immovable  mechanical  obsti-uction  to  what  nature  de- 
signed should  have  free  way.  Walrus-meat  affects  the  system  about 
the  same  way.  Too-koo-li-too  believed  that  the  reason  the  Innuits 
are  so  dark-colored  is  because  of  their  eating  so  much  raw  seal-meat 
and  blood ;  and  that  the  Kinna-patoos,  whose  country  is  in  the  vicinity 
of  Chesterfield  Inlet,  must  be  a  lighter-skinned  people,  as  they  never 
eat  raw  seal-meat.  Hall  remarks,  in  connection  with  this,  that  Innuit 
babies  when  quite  young  are  nearly  white. 

The  first  exploit  in  seal-catching  by  a  young  native  is  thus 
detailed : 

The  mother  of  the  hoj  Ivee-chucJc  came  to  the  entrance  of  our  Tiom-mong,  her 
whole  frame  shaking  with  joy,  while  she  told  the  news  she  had  just  henrd,  that 
her  son  had  harpooned  and  killed  a  seal  in  its  hole.  Then  she  went  from  Icom- 
mong  to  Ivm-mong,  notifying  the  women  that  her  son  was  on  his  way  back  with  the 
prize,  and  started  off  with  all  speed  to  meet  him.  I  watched  every  movement 
closely.  As  she  met  him,  the  dogs  were  stoi>ped  and  the  joyous  mother  embraced 
her  darling  successful  boy,  then  stooped  and  patted  the  seal  as  though  it  were  a 
living  pet.  She  next  disengaged  the  dogs'  harness  from  the  drauglit-line,  and 
started  toward  her  Icoin-mong,  dragging  the  seal  after  her,  when  the  women,  with 
their  oodloos,  hastened  to  meet  her.  It  was  a  woman's  race.  Old  OoTc-har-loo 
hobbled  along  as  fast  as  she  could,  but  was  left  far  behind,  and,  therefore,  she 


172  Innuit  Customs.  [May,  ises. 

kept  c'lyintj  out  iu  Ler  native  vernacular  for  her  competitors  not  to  ^o  too  fast. 
Though  this  old  petulant  creature's  commands  are  usually  obeyed,  they  were  not 
regarded  this  time,  for  the  race  proved  a  hot  one,  though  the  surroundings  were 
nothing  but  heavy  ice,  hard  snow,  and  very  cold  air.  As  fast  as  the  women  came 
up  to  the  seal  which  the  mother  was  dragging,  they  fell  upon  it  and  slashed  away 
right  and  left  with  their  ood-loos,  till  the  poor  defunct  was  completely  haggled  into 
as  many  pieces  as  there  were  hagglers.*  Old  Oolc-bar-loo,  having  arrived  late, 
only  got  a  small  portion  of  the  seal — the  liver,  heart,  and  lights.  Too-koo-li-too  in 
the  contest  succeeded  iu  gettuig  a  hind  quarter,  consisting  of  meat,  blubber,  skin, 
and  Hipper.  Some  women  got  more  and  others  less,  though  they  left  what  their 
customs  required — the  head,  neck,  fore  flippers,  and  some  of  theblubber  and  meat, — 
for  embellishing  the  ujloo  where  the  youthful  victor  resides.  What  remained  was 
dragged  to  the  igloo  by  the  joyous  mother,  and  thus  ended  the  public  celebration. 

Tlie  first  seal  caught  in  open  water  and  the  first  one  taken  by 
watching  over  an  ice-hole  are  occasions  for  like  demonstrations  of  joy, 
in  which  all  usually  share,  except  those  who  have  been  afflicted  by 
death  in  their  families  during  the  year. 

The  tracks  of  the  reindeer  were  now  frequently  seen.  Ebierbing 
failed  in  securing  some  bucks  through  his  snow-blindness ;  in  a  few 
days,  liowever,  he  was  well,  and,  with  his  usual  skill,  caught  two  seals, 
of  which  he  gave  pieces  to  the  difi^erent  families  and  piled  up  the  rest 
on  the  floor  of  Hall's  kotn-mong,  making  it  look  like  a  slaughter-house. 

On  the  12th,  (.ne  of  Ar-moii's  wives,  who  had  given  birth  to  a 
child  r»n  tlie  5th,  was  now  permitted  by  the  Innuit  customs  to  come 
again  from  lier  separate  ifjloo  into  the  family  hut ;  not,  however,  by 
the  common  passage-way,  but,  at  the  decision  of  Old  Mother  Ook-har- 

'  Hall  does  not  give  the  dimensioDB  of  the  seals  captured.  It  may  be  of  interest  to  note  the 
meaaurements  given  hy  Captain  Lyon  in  his  narrative  of  a  voyage  to  the  same  region.  The  num- 
ber of  seals  daily  seen  by  his  officers  was  large,  and  their  boldness  made  them  an  easy  prey.  Four 
were  killed  one  evening,  two  of  which  (the  J'hoca  Barbaia,  or  bearded  seal,)  weighed  from  eight  to 
nine  hundn-dweiglit.  The  length  of  one  irom  nose  to  insertion  of  the  tail  was  8  feet ;  the  length 
of  Ihe  fore  llippc;r,  10  inclies;  of  liind  ilipper,  1  foot  ^  inches  ;  the  circumference  of  the  belly  was 
7  feet;  the  circumference  of  the  head  behind  the  ears,  2  feet  T)  inches;  the  circumference  of  the 
nose,  )  ffiot  1  inches. 


May,  1865.1  A  Sledge  Trip.  173 

ho,  by  an  opening  cut  for  the  purpose  through  the  snow-wall.  She 
was  now  to  keep  a  little  skin-hag  hung  up  near  her  into  which  she 
must  put  a  little  of  her  food  at  each  meal,  having  first  put  it  up  to  her 
mouth.  This  is  called  la^dng  up  food  for  the  infant,  although  none  is 
given  to  it.  For  a  year  from  the  birth,  the  mother  must  eat  neither 
anything  raw  nor  that  which  has  been  wounded  in  the  heart.  Hall 
notes  that  a  birth  occurring  on  a  journey  occasions  no  delay ;  the  In- 
nuits  of  this  locality  differing  as  to  this  in  a  marked  degree  from  those 
further  east.  The  mother  is  almost  as  well  as  ever  an  hour  after  the 
birth.  The  new-comer  nestles  at  its  birth  in  its  took-too  bed  (its 
mother's  hood),  as  naked  as  when  born,  and  it  usuall}^  remains  without 
clothing  for  at  least  two  years. 

It  now  became  very  desirable  to  go  down  the  coast  32  miles 
southward  and  bring  up  the  four  whale-boats  which  belonged  to  Hall 
and  three  of  the  natives,  and  the  stores  of  the  expedition  with  the 
medicine-chest  and  other  deposits,  in  order  that  an  advance  might 
soon  be  made  toward  Repulse  Ray.  A  well-known  disease,  which 
threatened  to  sweep  off  very  many  of  their  dogs,  having  already  de- 
stroyed several,  this  journey  became  the  more  urgent.  Accompanied 
by  Ebierbing  and  five  others,  with  three  sledges  and  twenty  dogs,  on 
the  15th,  Hall  crossed  the  Wager,  and,  after  tracking  a  bear,  ascended 
the  high  land  to  examine  the  condition  of  the  bay.  Two  miles  down, 
a  heavy  black  cloud  hanging  over  it  extended  from  shore  to  shore, 
showing  much  ice  drifting  out  with  the  swift  ebb-tide. 

The  journey  occupied  the  traveling  hours  from  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  13th  to  10  a.  m.  of  the  following  day,  some  time  having 
been  given,  however,  to  the  hunt  of  foolc-too.  It  had  become  so  light 
at  midniirht  that  no  stars  were  visible.     Hall  feasted  in  the  igloo  on 


174  The  Kom-mongs  Falling  in.  [May,  ises. 

the  head  and  brains  of  a  deer ;  his  companions  delighted  themselves 
with  the  worms  found  under  the  skin.  A  severe  gale  sm*prising  the 
party  after  they  had  lashed  their  boats  on  the  sleds  to  return,  they 
halted,  and  Hall  cooked  a  large  quantity  of  deer-meat  and  treated  the 
company  to  so  much  hot  punch  that  they  began  to  utter  confused  sen- 
tences, and  retired  at  8  p.  m. 

On  the  16th,  Ou-e-la  w^ith  mucli  tact  pushed  forward  the  heavily- 
loaded  sleds,  and,  although  he  lost  several  dogs,  at  last  brought  up  the 
boats  on  the  ice  of  the  Wager,  launched  them  for  a  sail  of  two  hours 
on  its  open  water,  and  then  again  sledded  them  over  to  their  latest 
encampment,  reaching  it  at  midnight  of  the  18th.  On  their  route 
they  had  visited  Ar-lig-ouk-lig,  a  place  which  has  the  appearance,  on 
approaching  it  from  the  north  or  west,  of  an  inverted  whale-boat.  A 
''tablet"  was  found  here,  50  feet  in  height  and  25  feet  in  w^idth.  The 
place  is  considered  sacred  by  the  Innuits,  who  made  at  this  time  a 
deposit  there,  with  an  address  and  a  solemn  farewell.  In  a  crevice  5J 
feet  from  the  ice  a  lead  ball  was  now  placed,  marked  "Hall,  1865." 
On  the  crest  of  a  hill,  some  distance  further  on,  were  found  six  circles 
of  stones  which  Ou-e-la  said  were  the  remains  of  the  tii-piks  of  Innuits 
long  since  dead ;  and  that  here  they  made  their  stopping-place  when 
passing  from  Noo-wook  to  Oo-koo-ish-ee-lik. 

Tlie  rapid  advance  of  the  warm  season  again  required  a  change 
c*^  residence.  The  kom-mongs,  or  half-snow  houses,  w^ere  untenantable 
]jy  the  snow-drippings.  When  broken  down,  their  remains,  mixed  up 
with  musses  of  blubber,  broken  and  uncouth  native  utensils,  and  filth, 
presented  a  stroller  contrast  to  the  beautiful  arched  and  solid  domes  as 
described  by  Hall  in  the  previous  autumn.* 

•  Ca])tnin  Lyou,  in  his  journal  kopt  during  Parry's  second  voyage,  1821-'23,  says  of  a  like 
BCfiii- :  "  I  h;wl  ntveral  times  in  niy  rambles  through  the  world  seen  huts  which  I  imagined  could 


Jane,  1865.]  Tlw  Wami  SettsoH  Approacliing.  175 

Nu-ker-ziioo^  on  leaving  his  igloo,  took  out,  according  to  custom, 
all  his  skulls  and  bones  to  the  ice  some  distance  off.  Kljierbing  was 
snow-bhnd.  He  had  come  in  from  his  deer-hunt  looking  like  a  pillar 
of  snow  and  his  dogs  like  small  snow-drifts.  He  had  found  Ar-mou's 
wife  wandering  about  in  the  snow,  for  she  had  lost  the  way  to  her  own 
tu-pik,  and  could  not  as  yet  enter  any  other.  Despite  of  his  woolen 
mittens,  Hall's  own  fingers  now  tingled  more  with  cold  than  they  had 
done  during  the  whole  winter,  and  the  change  brought  to  him  a  sick- 
ness ;  but,  like  a  number  of  attacks  experienced  since  his  first  landing, 
this  was  but  temporary.  He  was  again  cheered  by  letters  from  Cap- 
tain Chapel,  brought  by  two  natives  who  had  left  the  ships  on  tlie  lOtli 
of  April. 

The  first  five  days  in  June  were  in  marked  contrast  with  the 
end  of  May.  The  glowing  sunsets,  which  mirrored  themselves  in  the 
water  of  tlie  Wager,  closed  upon  hours  favorable  for  observations  and 
for  hunting.  Hall's  boat,  the  Sylvia,  with  its  stores,  was  brought 
across  from  the  south  side  of  the  river.  By  ascertaining  with  his  sex- 
tant that  the  ice-foot  on  the  other  side,  20  feet  in  height,  subtended  an 
angle  of  5',  he  determined  the  breadth  of  the  Wager  to  be  two  and  a 
half  miles. 

The  tu-piks  had  been  again  set  up  on  an  island  called  Noo-oot-lik, 
which  forms  one  of  the  chain  lying  close  along  shore  of  the  river.  On 
this  many  circles  and  stone  monuments  were  found.     On  the  5th,  tak- 

not  be  equaled  iu  wretcliedness  of  appearance ;  but  I  was  yet  to  learn  that  of  all  luiscrablo 
places  on  earth  a  snow  village  recently  deserted  is  the  most  gloomy.  The  huts,  -when  viewed 
from  without,  glisten  beneath  the  rays  of  a  spring  sun  with  a  brilliancy  which  dazzles  and  pains 
the  eye ;  but  the  contrast  within  is  therefore  the  more  striking.  The  roofs  melted  into  icicles 
and  coated  with  smoke ;  arches  broken  and  falling  from  decay  ;  the  snow-seats,  floors,  and  parti- 
tions covered  with  every  kind  of  filth  and  rubbish — bones,  broken  utensils,  and  scraps  of  skins — 
form  altogether  the  most  deplorable  picture,  while  the  general  air  of  misery  is  tenfold  aug- 
mented by  the  strong  glare  of  light  which  shoots  through  the  hole  once  occupied  by  a  window." 


176  Nearing  the  Bay.  [June,  ises. 

ing  down  the  tents,  transferring  everything  to  the  boats,  and  rigidly 
guarding  the  i)rovisions  from  the  voracious  dogs,  the  company  moved 
forward  under  sail,  passing  through  a  narrow  channel  of  one  and  a 
half  miles  in  width,  and  for  some  hours  resting  on  a  bight,  found  to  be 
entirely  free  from  ice.  The  opposite  southern  shore  was  hugged  by  an 
ice-stream  sweeping  up  and  down  with  the  tide.  The  next  resting- 
place  was  on  an  old  ice-floe  about  one  mile  from  land,  full  of  fissures 
and  large  bergy  pieces,  on  attempting  to  round  which  both  Hall's  and 
Ar-mous  boats  struck  hard,  but  without  serious  injury.  Hall's  own 
boat,  the  Sylvia,  had  been  twice  nearly  destroyed — once  by  his  pilot 
and  wife  having  both  fallen  asleep  while  he  himself  was  napping. 
Ar-mous  equipment  was  enlivened  by  the  birth  of  a  litter  of  puppies. 
While  crossing  a  break  in  the  floe  they  saw  a  remarkable  stone,  called 
by  the  Innuits  Ye-ar-yu-Uk,  30  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and  stand- 
ing alone  about  a  mile  from  the  coast.  Ou-e-la  said  it  could  not  be 
ascended. 

On  the  8th,  a  gale,  with  drifting  snow,  forced  them  to  seek  the 
shelter  of  a  floe ;  but  as  it  was  soon  broken  up,  a  more  secure  refuge 
was  hastily  sought  under  the  lee  of  a  small  island.  To  Hall's  dismay, 
he  found  that  his  Ward  chronometer,  which  he  had  sacredly  guarded 
Irom  all  jars,  had  been  unwound.  Egger's  he  had  wound  up.  Ward 
was  "dead." 

( )ii  tlio  loth,  jjulling  at  the  oars  for  a  half  hour  and  then  getting 
under  sail,  tlie}'  made  four  knots  an  hour,  and  at  2  p.  m.  saw  the  bold 
and  snow-capped  mountains  of  the  north  side  of  Sedla  (Southampton 
Island.)  Nu-hpr-zhoo\s  whale-boat,  loaded  with  men,  women,  children, 
dogs,  and  all  maimer  of  truck — his  sled  across  the  bow — moved  lazily 
along  under  mainsail  and  jib.     While  Shoo-she-ark-nook^s  son  was  steer- 


Jaa«,  1865.1 


Encampment  on  Bepulse  Bay. 


177 


INNCIT   IVORY   COMB. 


INNllT   BONK    COMB. 


ing,  his  father  was  searching  the  boy's  head  for  Jcoo-mils  for  liis  supper. 

Upon  the  floe,  Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk,  who,  with  his  faniily,  had  come  up  by 

land,  was  discovered  not  far 

off,  urging  forward  liis  dogs. 

When  the  tide  turned.  Hall's 

party  had  hard  work  at  the 

oars,  but  at  midnight  of  the 

10th   they   made   their    first 

landing  on  the  ice  of  Repulse  Bay.     A  stream  of  heavy  ice  threatened 

to  crush  the  boat,  but  by  great  exertions  it  was  hauled  up  on  the  floe, 

which  almost   immediately    broke    up. 

After  repeated  like  severe  experiences, 

the  twenty-first  encampment  was  made 

on  the  shores  of  the  bay  at  midnight 

of  the  13th,  in  lat.  66""  15'  N.,  long.  85°  16'  W.     Hall  thought  there 

was  a  history  in  this  one  day.     But  this  bay,  from  which  he  was  at 

some  future  time  to  set  out  for  King  William's  Land,  had  now  been 

reached.     Disheartening  it  was  that  the  season  of  that  year  was  too  far 

advanced  for  sledging,  and  that  for  the  rest  of  the  month  he  was  to 

make  here  his  home. 

On  the  19th  he  crossed  Hurd's  channel  from  a  landing  on  the 
island  near  Cape  Frigid.  Ou-e-la  spoke  of  a  party  of  Iwillik  Innuits, 
including ^r-^oo-a,  SJwo-she-ark-nook,  ?ind  See-gar  (Ou-e-la'' s  iather),  who, 
while  out  walrusing  in  these  waters,  were  carried  off  on  a  broken  floe 
and  landed  on  Sedla.  By  watching  the  first  opportunity  they  got 
upon  another  floe,  on  which  they  were  carried  by  the  tide  to  Iwillik 
arriving  there  in  a  perishing  condition,  after  eating  all  their  dogs  and 
suffering  from  extreme  cold 


S.  Ex.  27- 


-12 


178  Game  Flentifid.  iju«c,  ises. 

AVliilo  Hall  was  on  Southampton  Island  lie  took  many  observa- 
tions for  the  determination  of  the  coast  line  ;  he  returned  ^vith  his 
party  to  his  twenty-first  encampment  at  8  p.  ni.  of  the  22d.  The  hitter 
l)art  of  the  month  gave  him  the  opportunity  of  writing  up  the  journals 
which  he  designed  to  send  to  the  United  States  by  the  first  whalers 
tliat  shoukl  appear  in  the  bay.  He  took  his  share  in  the  frequent 
hunts  opened  up  by  the  season. 

Game  had  steadily  increased  from  the  beginning  of  the  month. 
On  their  sail  from  the  Wager  it  had  been  constantly  in  sight,  giving 
them  a  number  of  deer,  fourteen  partridges,  and  an  ooJc-gooJc  shot  from 
Oi(-e-Ia\s  boat;  in  the  middle  of  the  month,  when  Ar-too-a,  See-gar^  and 
Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk,  with  their  three  sledges,  joined  the  saihng  party  on 
the  floe,  they  reported  eleven  deer  killed  on  their  route;  and  during 
the  last  two  weeks  of  the  month,  the  whole  party  were  in  the  liigliest 
spu'its  from  the  very  large  number  of  deer,  seals,  and  rabbits  that  were 
taken.  The  young  deer  were  found  to  have  their  new  horns  quite 
large.  The  rabbits  had  now  already  heralded  the  approach  of  sum- 
mer by  changing  their  white  fur  for  coats  of  a  light  brown  or  slaty 
liue.  As  early  as  the  16th,  the  first  flowers,  (the  purple  saxifrages,) 
had  been  seen  growing  abundantly  in  patches  on  the  plains. 

Ou-e-la's  hunting  was  again  successful  by  his  great  skill  in  entic- 
ing and  securing  his  prizes.  Approaching  the  deer,  he  worked  himself 
along  so  steakhily  from  rock  to  rock  as  to  escape  the  animal's  closest 
watcli,  and,  akhough  the  crows  were  noisily  afii'ighting  the  herd,  he 
quickly  killed  several.  Skinning  one  in  seven  minutes,  he  left  the 
meat  for  one  of  his  wives  to  bring  in  ;  and  approaching  a  fawn,  he  art- 
fully uttered  sounds  so  successfully  imitating  its  doe,  that  it  ran  toward 
him,  ^nviiig  Hall  the  <>i)portunity  of  shooting  it  and  of  receiving  con- 


^ 


BOAT  JOURNEYS  IN  1865 


o 


June,  1865.]  IlcfracUon.  1 70 

gratulations  on  his  return  to  the  tupiJiS.  With  the  assistance  of  Ebier- 
bing-'s  Hke  tact,  Hall  wounded  a  deer,  whicli  he  endeavored  to  drive  or 
lead  in  toward  his  tent;  but  when  the  strap  of  the  marine  glass  was 
fastened  around  its  head,  the  untamed  animal  reared,  kicked,  danced, 
butted,  and  cut  such  wild  capers  that,  witliin  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
home,  they  were  compelled  to  knock  it  on  the  head.  Ebierbing,  on  a 
visit  with  some  others  to  Oog-la-ri-your  Island,  caught  twenty-six  seals 
on  the  same  day.  Ou-e-la  brought  in,  besides  three  deer,  several  pin- 
tail ducks,  with  their  eggs  which  were  of  a  greenish  cast,  but  smaller 
than  those  of  the  eider; — of  the  size  of  hen-eggs  only. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  26th,  from  the  top  of  a  little  hill,  Hall 
observed  a  remarkable  instance  of  refraction.  The  mountains  of 
Southampton  Island,  which  are  of  no  great  height  and  their  slopes 
gentle,  appeared  to  be  very  high  and  precipitous ;  an  irregular  chain 
was  converted  into  a  huge  plateau.  A  descent  of  even  5  feet  from  his 
position  made  the  mountains  appear  nearly  natural;  one  of  10  feet 
entirely  so. 

In  his  excursions  he  met  with  two  specimens  only  of  iron  ore 
resting  on  primitive  rock. 

On  the  1st  day  of  July  he  moved  a  short  distance  to  the  Island 
of  Oog-la-ri-your,  where  the  larger  number  of  his  Innuit  friends  had 
already  encamped  for  more  conveniently  hunting  the  seal.  On  remov- 
ing their  tupihs,  the  blubber  which  had  been  saved  was  stored  away  in 
seal-skin  ''drugs^^^  and  deposited  in  a  cache  for  winter  use.  When 
making  these  bags  they  took  off  the  skin  from  the  animal  unbroken 
except  by  a  small  opening  about  the  head,  and  when  this  cut  was  made, 
a  knife  was  thrust  in  longitudinally  and  used  freely  until  the  blubber 
was  completely  separated  from  the  skin;  the  fore  flipper  was  jointed. 


180  Too-koo-U-too  III.  [juiy,  ises. 

Tlie  seal  was  then  worked  out  by  the  hole  made  at  the  head.  If  any 
small  rent  had  been  accidentally  made,  it  was  carefully  sewed  up 
before  tilling. 

Just  before  their  removal  to  Oog-la-ri-your,  the  natives  had  been 
suffering  from  very  severe  colds  and  pains  in  the  chest ;  some  had 
entirely  lost  their  voices.  Hall's  medicines  had  been  in  frequent 
requisition,  particularly  for  the  relief  of  Skoo-sJie-ark-nook,  now  saved  a 
second  time  from  dying;  but  he  believed  that  the  improvement  in  their 
habits  of  living  which  he  had  induced  the  natives  to  make,  had  yet  more 
to  do  with  his  success  as  a  practitioner.  His  own  health  was  again  gen- 
erally good.  On  the  top  of  this  island  of  Ooglariyour  were  the 
remains  of  the  merry  Ivit-clmk  of  Dr.  Rae's  party,  and  those  of  his 
wife.  Ou-e-Ja  told  Hall  that  at  one  time  very  many  Innuits  lived 
there,  but  nearly  all  had  died  off. 

He  was  detained  at  this  twenty-second  encampment,  lat.  66°  19', 
long.  85°  23',  throughout  the  whole  month  and  until  the  7th  of 
August,  by  the  severe  illness  of  Too-koo-li-too  from  an  attack  of 
pneumonia.  His  notes  on  one  of  the  days  of  her  illness  are:  "Her 
symptoms  are  of  the  most  serious  character.  She  raises  blood  direct 
from  her  lungs.  I  feel  that  I  have  neglected  to  teach  these  children 
of  the  North  their  religious  duties.  Indeed,  I  feel  that  I  need  myself 
a  teacher,  and  I  am  brought  to  know  that  I  need  a  new  heart.  O,  may 
I  learn  from  the  glorious  Bible  my  duty,  and  by  the  help  of  God  per- 
form it."  Ho  much  interested  her  by  reading  from  the  scripture  his- 
t<»ry,  especially  that  of  Joseph,  which  story  she  in  turn  went  over 
again  to  her  husl)aiid.  Hannah  was  still  under  the  influence  of  super- 
stition. It  nquiicd  ;i  long  and  patient  reasoning  to  convince  her  when 
sick   that    she   ((.iild  eat   anything  which  Ou-e-la  brought  in,  for  the 


juir,  1863.J  Mode  of  CuUimj  up  the   Ook-f/ook.  181 

natives  had  told  her  something-  was  wrong  at  his  birtli.  She  was  at 
times  persuaded  to  drink  the  sonp  out  of  which  Hall  was  accustomed 
to  eat  some  of  OH-e-ki's  toolc-too  meat. 

The  natives  were  industriously  occupied  in  boat  and  sledge  jour- 
neys, securing  a  large  amount  of  game  for  their  subsistence  through 
the  coming  winter.  By  the  close  of  the  month,  the  footing  up  showed 
twelve  seals,  nine  ooJc-gooks,  thirty-seven  deer,  and  a  bear,  besides  four 
ducks  and  thirty-eight  eggs.  Hall's  advice  secured  this  increase,  as 
well  as  the  preservation  of  the  well-dried  meat  in  drugs  of  oil,  in  which 
it  would  keep  sweet  and  fresh  and  already  "  buttered."  He  witnessed 
the  mode  of  cutting  up  ook-gook  and  preparing  from  its  skin  the  lines 
for  securing  the  walrus,  as  well  as  for  sledge  tracings  and  lashings. 
From  an  ook-gook  9  feet  in  length  the  skin  was  cut  into  strips,  and 
then  stretched  by  block  and  tackle  between  the  rocks.  When  suffi- 
ciently dried,  the  strips  were  made  soft  and  pliable  by  rubbing  and 
chewing.  The  land  of  civilization,  he  says,  has  nothing  equaling 
these  lines  in  strength  and  endurance  of  wear  and  tear.  In  the  divis- 
ion made  in  cutting  up  the  animal,  a  woman  received  an  equal  share 
with  each  of  the  men.  The  ice  on  the  coast  still  remaining  hunmiock}^ 
it  was  very  difficult  to  get  a  heavy  ook-gook  u])on  the  island  ;  yet,  if 
the  carcass  was  insufficiently  covered  with  snow,  ice,  or  deer-skins, 
the  burning  rays  of  the  sun  in  a  few  moments  destroyed  the  skin ;  or 
if  the  bear  made  its  ready  visit,  it  struck  its  huge  claws  through  the 
tough  coat,  completely  riddling  it  and  tearing  out  the  meat  and 
blubber. 

On  the  22d,  Hall  visited  the  whaler  Black  Eagle,  on  board  of 
which  he  had  an  opportunity  of  comparing  and  rating  his  chronome- 
ters.    The  first  whaler  of  the  season  had  been  sighted  on  the  loth  by 


182  Wlialers  in  Sight.  [jniy,  ises. 

Qn-c-Ja,  wlio  had  instantly  harnessed  up  his  dogs  and  hastened  off  to 
inform  Ilall.  On  Nu-lier-zlwd's  coming-  in  to  confirm  the  report,  he 
was  directed  to  bring  the  longest  pole  he  could  find  to  the  top  of  the 
island  and  fasten  on  it  one  of  the  American  flags  as  a  signal.  At 
thirty  minutes  past  midnight,  with  some  little  difficulty  on  account  of 
the  fog,  the  vessel  was  descried  a  little  to  the  westward  of  Cape  Frigid. 
Tlie  sight  was  sufficiently  exciting  and  joyous  to  Hall  to  keep  all 
sleep  from  him.  He  sent  Ou-e-la  to  occupy  his  own  took-too  bed,  while 
he  ^^■ent  again  and  again  to  the  crest  of  the  island  to  watch  the  vessel 
and  the  movements  of  the  ice ;  and  he  was  very  soon  able  to  make 
out  a  second  visitor  traversing  the  Welcome  from  east  to  west,  and 
then  returning  on  the  opposite  tack.  He  ho2:)ed  to  find  that  these 
were  the  Antelope  and  the  schooner  Helen  F.,  which  had  been  winter- 
ing at  Depot  Island  and  Marble  Island ;  for  he  remembered  that  Cap- 
tain Chapel -had  advised  him  that  these  vessels,  as  soon  as  released 
fr(  iin  the  ice,  would  cruise  for  whales  in  Repulse  Bay.  He  was  par- 
ticularly anxious  to  discover  some  lead  in  the  pack  through  which  the 
►Sylvia  might  be  pulled  by  the  strong  arms  of  the  Innuits  to  the  ships, 
as  he  expected  they  would  have  on  board  a  team  of  dogs  for  him,  the 
captains  having  promised  to  bring  all  the  dogs,  which  would  be  of  no 
further  use  to  them  after  the  spring  whaling  was  finished.  They  had 
been  chiefiy  useful  in  sledging  the  blubber  over  the  floe  which  lay 
between  the  ships  and  the  0})en  water. 

From  any  atteni})t  to  go  out  to  his  visitors  when  first  sighted  he 
had  Ijccn  entirely  held  back  by  a  storm  breaking  over  the  island. 
In  describing  tliis,  he  says  : 

^'csterday  iii(>rnin«f,  the  sky  was  overcast  and  gloomy,  the  weather  looking 
thrcali-iiiiig  as  if  Ji  stonii  would  soon  bo  n])on  us;  and,  besides,  at  10.30  a.  in.  of 


July,  IS65.]  The  Storm.  183 

the  14tb,  a  thick  log-,  the  first  of  the  kind  that  1  remember  has  occurred  this 
season,  commenced  rising  over  the  open  water  southward,  and  by  11  a.  m.  it  was 
driven  here  by  a  southeast  wind,  enveloping  tlie  ishmd  in  it.  The  succeeding 
monnng,  the  fog  was  again  over  the  oi)en  Avater  and  over  tlie  ice  of  TJei)u]se  r>ay, 
the  wind  still  southeast  and  south-southeast.  From  the  morning  of  the  13th  tlie 
barometer  began  to  fall,  standing  then  30 ^^^  inches;  it  gradually  continued  fall- 
ing to  Saturday  morning,  the  16th,  from  which  time  to  evening  it  dropped  down 
three-tenths  of  an  inch.  In  connection  with  all  this,  I  may  mention  what  some 
might  consider  a  trifle ;  nevertheless  it  shall  have  a  place  here.  A  small  i)ool  or 
reservoir  of  fresh  water  is  close  by  the  tupih,  mostly  on  solid  rock,  but  one  side  of 
it  consists  of  moss  and  grass  growing  over  cobblestones.  Now,  this  pool  rises 
and  falls  quite  as  regularly  as  the  tide,  though  only  about  one-lialf  as  often. 
During  the  night  the  water  of  this  reservoir  falls,  and  fi'om  morning  to  evening- 
it  rises.  The  rise  and  fall  seems  to  be  quite  uniform  in  height  one  day  after 
another.  Last  night  this  water  was  nearly  exhausted.  Indeed,  when  I  saw  it 
just  before  the  thunder-storm  I  was  greatly  surprised  to  find  it  so.  This  with 
other  indications  told  unmistakably  that  something  unusual  was  about  to  transpire 
in  nature's  elements.  At  2.30  a.  m.  the  tirst  thunder-clap  that  I  have  ever  heard 
in  the  northern  regions  occurred,  the  same  being  preceded  by  sharp  liglitning. 
A  little  while  after,  loud  thunder  pealed  forth  here,  there,  everywhere  around 
Eepulse  Bay,  especially  away  in  the  direction  of  Gibson's  Cove,  the  extreme 
northwestern  part  of  Eepulse  Bay,  where  were  such  piles  of  heavy  black  clouds — 
Heaven's  electric  battery — and  such  a  continuous  roar  of  thunder  therefrom  that 
I  could  not  help  thinking  of  the  Almighty  hand  which  holds  the  elements. 

The  storm  ended  at  4.20  a.  m. 

Ar-mou  told  Hall  he  had  seen  ou-mer,  (lightning,)  twice  at  Ig- 
loo-lik.  His  people  never  knew  it  to  kill  an  Innuit.  To-koo-li-too 
said  in  her  country  it  struck  red  dogs ;  so  they  always  killed  such  when 
puppies. 

The  old  woman  E-vit-shung  gave  a  specimen  of  her  treatment 
of  her  own  dogs,  which  was  amusing  though  severe.  She  found 
them  one  day  asleep  when  tied  up  to  the  rocks,  as  was  often  neces- 
sary to  prevent  their  cutting  with  their  teeth  into  the  oil-drugs  and 
meat ;  a  valuable  drug  had  just  been  almost  entirely  ruined.     This, 


184  Stoning  the  Dogs.  ijuiy,  ises. 

however,  was  not  the  cause  oi  E-vit-skimg^s,  fearful  pounding.  Wlien 
she  arrived  where  some  of  the  dogs  were  constantly  kept  fast  to  the 
rocks  b}'  long  tliongs,  she  stopped  and  commenced  pelting  one  of  the 
largest  with  stones.  Every  time  she  made  a  throw,  she  spoke  to  the 
dog  as  tliough  he  could  comprehend  Innuit  speech.  What  she  did 
say  amounted  simply  to  this : 

"  Here  you  are,  old  dog,  and  all  the  rest  of  you,  sleeping  aud  basking  in  the 
hot  sun's  rays  all  day,  and  at  night  wide  awake,  howling,  barking,  and  crying, 
keeping  me  and  all  others  about  from  getting  any  quiet  sleep;  and  now,  old  fel- 
low, I  am  giving  you  tiiese  stones  for  pay.  As  for  the  rest  of  you  brutes,  I  will 
give  you  some  another  time."  Her  throws  were  of  some  account  so  far  as  this 
goes.  She  hit  every  time,  and  made  the  dog  cry  wofidly.  Each  time  she  picked  uj) 
a  stone  and  licld  it  in  her  hand,  the  dog  watched  her  closely.  Several  false-throw 
niotit)ns  were  tirst  made  by  the  old  woman,  and  when  the  dog  ceased  dodging,  out 
would  lly  the  huge  stone  from  her  hand,  hitting  him  on  the  head,  nose,  or  other 
parts  of  the  body.  My  laughing  so  heartily  was  from  the  business-like  manner 
in  whirli  tlie  old  lady  addressed  the  dog  during  the  severe  castigation  she 
was  administering  to  it.  If  JE-vit-shioig  can  wMyt  Innuit  dogs  a  long  time  after 
they  have  done  their  evil  work  and  make  them  understand  just  what  their  chas- 
tisement is  for,  then  either  she  has  a  supernatural  power,  or  the  Innuit  dogs  are 
intelligent  iM-ings.  moral  agents,  so  to  call  tliem. 

The  old  woman  had  been  doing  better  service  in  the  early  part 
oftlu^  day  by  bringing  word  to  Hall  of  the  blowing  of  a  whale,  which 
slie  and  her  companion  in  the  tujjik  had  heard. 

Hall  .says  that  the  dogs  are  both  a  blessing  and  a  curse; — almost 
constantly  in  mischief,  opening  seal-blubber  drugs,  howling  all  night, 
and  ofttimcs  stealing  into  tents  and  abstracting  meat,  eating  harness  and 
walrus-lines.  There  is  no  end  to  the  damage  these  brutes  are  all  the 
time  surreptitiously  doing.  P,ut,  on  the  other  hand,  in  winter  which 
iiiclii«l<-  about  thi-('(-fourtlis  of  the  year,  they  are  of  such  value  as 
(bauglit  animals,  and  as  bear,  musk-ox,  and  seal-dogs,  that,  with  all  their 


August,  ISti.'S. 


The  KfulKrance  of  fhr  Eskimo   Don. 


185 


depredations,  on  no  consideration  could  the  Innnits  do  without  them. 
The  severity  with  which  they  treat  these  friends  has  been  more  than 
once  noted.  Ar-mou  and  Ou-c-Ja  beat  several  of  them  to  dentli  with 
an  oar,  and  at  one  time  Avitli  a  hatcliet.     Their  tenacitv  of  life  a]){)ears 


KSKIMO   DOG. 
[From  a  photojirapli  of  Captain  Cliapel's. ] 

plainly  in  the  midst  of  their  sufferings  when  drawing  such  heavy  loads 
while  half  famished,  and  in  their  endurance  of  unmerciful  poundings. 
A  case  is  cited,  too,  in  which  an  animal  pierced  with  several  rifle- 
balls  recovered  his  full  strengtli,  although  sick  when  sliot. 

On  the  6tli  of  this  month,  scarcely  any  ice  was  to  be  seen  in  ]\Iid- 
dleton's  Frozen  Strait,  the  Welcome,  or  Repulse  Bay.      Hall  thought 


186  Death  of  Shoo-she-arJc-nook  [Angnst,  ises. 

the  term  Frozen  Strait  a  misnomer,  being  informed  that  it  is  never 
entirely  closed.  Refraction  was  much  less  marked  than  any  which  he 
had  observed  for  many  weeks  past.  The  nights  growing  dark,  he  could 
no  longer  write  up  his  notes  in  the  tupiJc  at  midnight.  Mosquitoes,  which 
had  lirst  showed  themselves  July  10,  were  now  filling  the  air;  the 
number  caught  in  the  fresh  paint  which  Nu-ker-zJioo  had  put  upon  his 
boat  was  beyond  computation.  The  water-supply  was  renewed  from 
a  pool  on  the  surface  of  an  ice-floe  near  the  island.  The  party  who 
procured  this  could  have  secured  a  whale  lying  a  little  distance  off, 
with  his  back  out  of  the  water,  if  their  weapons  had  been  at  hand. 
Two  other  whales  were  seen  by  others  the  same  day.  Oii-e-la,  who 
had  made  an  encampment  about  five  miles  to  the  north,  for  better 
salmon  fishing,  was  espied  by  Ar-moii  coming  down  under  sail,  and 
on  landing  proceeded  directly  to  Hall's  tupik  to  inform  him  of  the 
death  of  his  much-beloved  brother,  SJioo-sJie-ark-nook.  He  received 
Hall's  warmest  sympathy,  which  he  well  knew  he  had  reason  to  expect 
from  the  experience  of  a  visit  during  a  late  serious  accident  iu  his 
fiimily.  His  eldest  son  had  fractured  his  skull  by  a  fall  upon  the 
rocks  among  the  hummocks,  and  although  Ou-e-la  had  healed  the 
Iracture  by  a})plying  the  powerful  suction  of  his  mouth  to  bring  the 
j)ieces  together,  he  came  to  his  old  friend  to  tell  him  of  the  accident 
and  its  effect  upon  his  wife  in  her  peculiar  situation.  He  now  brought 
sad  news. 

"Strange  customs  have  these  Innuits.  Neither  Ou-e-la  nor  his 
l>rother  Ar-too-d  n  ill  now  smoke,  though  they  both  are  great  smokers. 
They  retain  uixm  their  heads  the  usual  coverino:  from  morniu":  till 
ni;:lit.  This  covering  at  any  other  time,  and  especially  when  entering  a 
tuj)il:,  is  thrown  back,  leaving  tlie  head  bare.     To  this  head-covering 


Augiiiit,  1865.]  Encampment  on  IlavUand  Bay.  187 

the  skin  and  feathers  of  a  iKe-tu-Jarli's  liead  were  fastened,  and  a  feather 
of  the  same  water-fowl  to  each  arm,  just  above  the  elbow.  Oii-e-Ia 
and  eacli  of  the  male  relatives  of  Shoo-slie-ark-nook  have  a  belt 
around  the  waist.  Then,  besides,  they  constantly  wear  mittens.  On 
offering  Ou-e-la  some  coffee,  bread,  and  venison,  he  declined  taking 
any,  because  he  must  have  food  cooked  for  himself  separate  from 
others  during  the  term  of  mourning." 

On  the  7th,  Hall  with  his  party  removed  to  the  west  side  of  Havi- 
land  Bay,  making  the  passage  in  a  rain-storm  in  just  five  hours — 2  J  to 
8  knots  per  hour — on  a  northwest  course  across  the  mouth  of  the  bay. 
The  storm  had  begun  from  the  southeast  on  the  night  previous  to  their 
setting  out  from  the  twenty-second  encampment;  but  the  weather  clear- 
ing during  the  day,  the  party  had  embarked  on  four  boats;  the  Sylvia 
and  the  Lady  Franklin,  with  the  boats  of  Ou-e-la  and  Nu-ker-^Jioo.  All 
were  well  laden  with  drugs  of  seal-blubber,  sledges,  dogs,  men,  women, 
and  children,  and  the  usual  Tnnuit  chattels.  A  breeze  from  the  north- 
east favored  them  on  a  part  of  the  voyage,  but  torrents  of  rain  fell, 
and  the  greatest  care  was  taken  by  all  the  party  of  Too-koo- 
li-too,  who  had  been  so  long  an  invalid.  The  landing  was  made  with 
ease  at  low  tide,  but  to  find  a  suitable  place  for  the  tiqnks  was  diffi- 
cult, as  the  rocks  were  everywhere  dished,  had  pools  in  every  excava- 
tion, and  were  sending  down  streams  of  water  in  every  direction.  The 
Innuits  who  had  preceded  Hall  in  removing  from  Oo-glari-your  Island 
occupying  the  only  available  dry  spot,  he  was  obliged  to  take  the  most 
convenient  one  above  high-water  mark.  At  midnight  the  tujnics  were 
completed,  and  the  party  comfortably  housed  at  this  new  encampment, 
lat.  GQ°  31'  N.,  long.  85°  50'  W. 


188  A    Wo))uui  An  ge-ho  Questioning  ^"Sidney.''''       lAuguM,  ises. 

Ill  tlie  interval  of  a  clear  sky  on  their  journey,  two  vessels  bad 
been  again  sigbted  at  a  distance  to  tbe  southward;  but  indistinctly 
throuii'h  the  mist.  Not  even  their  masts  would  have  been  above  the 
horizon,  if  refraction  had  not  brought  them  up  and  their  duplicates 
also;  each  vessel,  from  the  water-line  about  it  to  the  truck  being 
matched  bv  its  complete  image  inverted,  hulk  to  hulk,  and  all  sus- 
pended in  the  clouds  above  the  sea  horizon.  The  day  following,  the 
two  ships,  the  Black  Eagle  and  the  Ansel  Gibbs,  again  appeared, 
beating  up  Repulse  Bay.  They  anchored  near  an  island  to  the  south- 
west. Ebierbing  and  Ou-e-la  had  volunteered  at  a  late  hour  of  the 
night  previous  to  go  out  to  these  ships  in  the  offing.  The  wind  fresh- 
ening to  a  gale,  Ou-e-la,  more  cautious  than  Ebierbing,  soon  returned; 
but  the  latter,  after  causing  Hall  much  anxiety  for  many  hours,  still 
remained  out  of  sight.  As  he  had  with  him  in  the  Sylvia  Nu-l'cv- 
zlioo,  Oung-oo-choo,  and  Tuk-too,  their  old  mother,  E-vit-shmuj  who  felt 
that  all  her  earthly  treasures  were  in  danger,  invested  herself  with  the 
nlHce  of  an  an-ge-ho ;  and  after  having  by  the  dawn  of  day  satisfied 
herself  by  tlie  answers  of  "  Sidney,"  that  although  the  Sylvia  could 
not  reach  tlie  sliijis,  it  would  come  back  safe,  she  had  relieved  the 
minds  of  the  other  Innuits.  In  her  communing  with  the  spirit,  she 
had  Ijeen  throwing  her  left  hand  continually  around,  giving  a  twisting 
motion  to  tlie  thong  which  she  had  tied  to  a  heavy  stone,  and 
"  Sidney's"  answers  had  come  to  her  by  his  increasing  or  diminishing 
tin-  wciglit  of  this  stone.  AYhen  the  party  returned,  they  reported  that 
tlicy  had  iiindc  a  landing  until  th(^  storm  subsided,  and  having  their 
lirc-arnis  with  thciii  had  made  a  successful  fooJc-foo  hunt. 

i><tMic  their  ai-|-ival  several  Ijoats'  crews  ])ut  off  from  the  ships  to 
vi.^it    lialh  tor  whom    they  had   been   looking  when   passing  Oo-gla-ri- 


August,  1865.]  A    Visit  from  the  Black  Eagle.  189 

your  Island.  He  records  witli  much  feeling  the  emotions  which  he 
experienced  when  the  mate  of  the  Black  Eagle  leaped  ashore  from 
the  first  boat  and  hailed  him  with  the  news,  "  'i'he  war  is  ended  !  but 
our  President  is  assassinated."  ''  This  tlumderbolt  transfixed  me  to 
the  spot ;  that  the  war  was  ended  was  what  I  had  fondly  anticipated 
I  would  learn  ;  but  who  of  my  worthy  countrymen  would  be  pre- 
pared for  such  news — '  Our  President  is  assassinated.' "  This  with 
many  other  items  of  an  interest  fully  to  be  appreciated  by  one  so  long- 
shut  out  from  the  civilized  world,  was  afterward  placed  in  full  before 
him  in  the  files  of  New  York  and  Boston  papers  which  had  been 
received  by  the  whalers  from  the  Daniel  Webster  at  Marble  Island. 

The  best  feeling  continued  to  prevail  between  Hall  and  the  cap- 
tains of  the  two  whalers  during  their  stay.  On  his  visits  to  their  ships, 
he  informed  them  of  the  places  in  which  a  number  of  black  whales 
had  been  seen  by  himself  and  by  the  Innuits,  who  had  also  seen 
many  white  whales  (Belphinus  Albicans),  which  were  small.  As  to  the 
color  of  these,  the  natives  said  that  it  was  the  young  ones  but  two  or 
three  years  old  which  retain  the  walrus  or  brown  hue ;  the  old  ones 
(kil-lee-lu-yers)  are  white.  He  regretted  that  the  other  whalers  did 
not  come  up  into  the  bay  to  share  in  the  partial  success  of  the  Ansel 
Gibbs  and  the  Black  Eagle.  Being  informed  on  the  20th  that  they 
did  not  design  to  winter  here  and  thought  it  best  not  to  risk  any  fur- 
ther detention,  he  spent  a  whole  night  on  board  one  of  the  ships  writ- 
ing up  his  journals  and  dispatches  to  friends  at  home. 

The  letters  of  Captain  Kilmer  written  at  this  time  show  his  deep 
interest  in  the  friend  whom  he  was  leaving,  and  gave  practical  proof 
of  it  by  advising  him  of  a  deposit  of  provisions  and  stores  made  for 
him  on  shore.     Hall  notes  Ou-e-la's  honesty  in  keeping  for  him  a  num- 


190  HaWs  Crew  Capture  a  Whale.  [August,  isgs. 

bcr  of  small  articles  also  entrusted  to  his  care  by  the  captain ;  he  had 
stimulated  the  natives  to  secure  for  the  ships  as  many  deer  as  possi- 
ble. The  two  vessels  left  the  bay  on  the  21st.  Their  crews  had 
secured  a  number  of  whales — eight  on  the  15th  and  16th — the  oil  and 
bone  of  wliicli  Hall  estimated  to  be  worth  $25,000. 

The  first  opportunity  now  offered  itself  for  the  successful  issue  of 
one  of  the  important  elements  in  the  original  plan  presented  to  the 
friends  of  the  expedition  in  New  York  in  1862 — the  capture  of  whales 
which  would  repay  in  part  the  advances  made  for  the  outfit.  After  a 
number  of  cruises  in  the  boats  without  being  able  to  come  quite 
within  striking  distance,  on  the  30th  he  was  congratulated  by  all  his 
Innuit  friends  for  the  success  of  the  day.  With  his  party  of  men  and 
bovs  he  left  the  tupiks  at  4  a.  m.,  to  hunt  a  whale  which  had  been  for 
some  time  previous  blowing  around.  The  Sylvia  and  the  Lady 
Franklin  gave  swift  chase  to  the  westward,  but,  after  an  hour's 
cruise,  during  which  the  whale  made  several  risings,  they  were  un- 
aljle  to  get  close  enough,  although  they  came  almost  upon  it  when 
rowing  from  an  opposite  direction  around  an  islet  A  second  whale 
was,  however,  almost  immediately  seen  half  a  mile  to  the  south- 
west, when  the  sails  were  quickly  set  and  paddles  and  oars  vigor- 
ously plied  by  the  crews  of  both  boats,  ''each  of  wdiich  ran  down 
the  leg  of  a  V,  the  whale  at  its  joining  point."  Oii-e-la,  from  the 
bow  of  the  Lady  Franklin  which  reached  the  goal  a  few  seconds 
Ijefore  the  Sylvia,  threw  a  whale's  harpoon  to  which  was  attached  a 
line  of  20  fathoms,  having  at  its  end  two  drugs  (floats).  One  of  these 
was  the  forward  part  of  an  ooh-gooh  skin,  the  covering  of  the  head 
and  llippei's  being  as  entire  as  when  upon  the  living  animal,  wuth  the 


Augnst,  1865.]  TliG   Wkalc  CacJiecl.  191 

exception  of  the  transverse  seam ;  the  other  was  the  entire  skin  of  a 
neU-yuk  Both  were  filled  with  air  compressed  by  the  stout  lunj^-s  of 
an  Innnit.  Their  double  object  was  to  indicate  where  tlie  whale  was 
and  to  tire  it  down.  When  Ou-e-Ms  iron  struck  into  the  back  of  the 
whale,  it  gave  one  slap  of  its  flukes  and  went  below  the  white  seeth- 
ing waters,  at  first  disappointing  Hall,  who  thought  it  was  now  lost. 
He  had  furnished  Ou-e-la  on  setting  out  with  a  full  length  of  line,  and 
was  not  acquainted  with  this  Innuit  use  of  floats.*  But  while  the 
boats  lay  to,  watching  for  a  re-appearance,  the  drugs  were  seen  far  out 
in  the  bay  flying  over  the  waters,  though  with  decreasing  speed,  and  on 
the  whale's  again  coming  up  to  blow,  it  received  a  harpoon  from  Nii- 
ker-zhoo  at  the  bow  of  the  Sylvia,  and  Ou-e-Ws  iron  drew.  The  whale 
again  turned  flukes  for  soundings,  taking  out  with  him  half  of  the  Syl- 
via's whale-line ;  it  then  immediately  struck  seawasd,  dragging  the 
boat  through  the  water  with  great  speed.  On  its  coming  up  and  blow- 
ing, Ou-e-la  lanced  it  from  the  Lady  Franklin.  It  died  within  one 
hour  from  the  first  attack. 

The  anchor  was  dropped  from  the  Sylvia,  the  corners  of  the  whale's 
flukes  were  cut  off,  its  mouth  tied  up,  and  the  fins  taken  one  into  each 
boat.  The  towing  of  the  animal  to  a  floe  was  made  with  slow  progress 
against  head  tide,  but  at  1  p.  m.  the  prize  was  taken  into  a  small  cove 
near  the  tupiJcs.  Hall  had  breakfasted  on  raw  muk-tuJc  as  soon  as  the 
whale  was  killed.  The  Innuits,  though  equally  fond  of  the  skin, 
could  not  join  him,  because  they  had  already  eaten  took-too;  in  obe- 

*  Captain  Eoss,  in  his  Narrative  (1818),  describes  tlic  native  harpooning  witnessed  by  him 
in  the  Greenland  Seas :  "  The  harpoon  has  a  barb  about  3  inches  long,  and  a  line  attached  to  it  of 
about  5  fathoms  in  length,  the  other  end  of  which  is  fastened  to  a  buoy  of  a  seal's  skin  made  into  a 
hag  and  inflated.  The  blade  is  fixed  on  the  end  of  a  shaft  in  such  a  manner  that  it  may  be  disen- 
gaged from  the  handle  after  it  is  fixed  in  the  animal,  and  the  shaft  is  then  pulled  back  by  a  line 
tied  to  it  for  the  purpose.  When  the  animal  is  struck,  ho  carries  down  with  him  the  seal-skin 
buoy,  which  fatigues  him.    As  ho  must  come  up  to  respire,  he  is  followed  up  and  killed  by  spears." 


192  Whiter  Quarters  Made  at  llae's  Fort  Hope.     [Sopimibcr,  ises. 

dience  to  a  like  superstitions  idea,  three  days  must  elapse  after  the 
capture  of  the  whale  before  any  work  could  be  done.  On  the  day 
following,  the  carcass  was  cut  up  and  cached  amid  scenes  of  feasting. 
Fifteen  hundred  pounds  of  the  bone,  designed  by  Hall  for  the  benefit 
of  his  expedition,  wore  securely  deposited  to  be  available  on  the  return 
of  the  whalers  to  the  ba}'  in  the  following  fall. 

The  amount  of  game  secured  during  the  month  was  very  small. 
The  Innuits  thought  that  the  deer  had  been  frightened  off  by  the 
smell  of  the  trying  out  (boiling  the  oil  from)  the  blubber  on  the 
whalers  before  they  sailed. 

A  much  greater  amount  of  rain  had  fallen  than  Hall  had  expe- 
nenced  at  any  like  period  during  his  first  expedition.  The  natives 
said  that  it  was  very  unusual,  accounting  for  it  by  the  fact  that  during 
the  winter  there  had  been  little  snow,  and  but  few  fogs  in  the  spring, 
and  that  these  heavy  and  continuous  showers  were  now  making  up  the 
deficiency  in  moisture. 

The  general  movement  of  the  ice  under  the  influence  of  the  tides, 
winds,  and  currents,  was  from  Frozen  Strait  and  Hurd's  Channel  up 
Repulse  Bay,  and  thence  south  and  out  through  the  Welcome.  At 
times  the  bay  itself  was  entirely  filled  with  ice ;  sometimes  the  straits 
were  blocked ;  occasionally  both  the  bay  and  its  entrances  were  free. 

On  the  4tli  of  September,  Hall  made  his  twenty-sixth  encamp- 
ment, on  tlic  })anks  of  North  Pole  River,  near  the  Fort  Hope  of  Dr. 
Rae.  This  was  to  be  his  Avinter  quarters,  in  which  he  would  prepare 
for  liis  sledge  journey  next  season  to  the  west.  From  this  point,  also, 
he  w(.uld  make  a  survey  of  the  bay,  his  observations  of  the  coast  line 
already  niad«'  having  satisfied  him  that  an  improvement  of  the  charts 


September,  1865.J  Rocks  and  DehHs  on  the  Ice.  193 

could  be  made  for  the  whalers.  Steadfast  in  the  purpose  to  succeed  in 
the  several  objects  of  his  voyage,  he  had  declined  to  accept  offers  from 
the  whalers  of  a  passage  home.  When  he  now  set  up  liis  tu-pik  the 
glories  of  a  beautiful  sunset  were  changing  the  Arctic  hues  of  the 
landscape  into  tropical  warm  coloring,  and  filling  the  grayish,  cool 
atmosphere  with  an  unnatural  brilliancy. 


HALL'S    NOTES   ON   FINDING    ROCKS    AND    DIilBRIS   ON 

THE  ICE. 
The  journal  of  the  25th  of  July  contains  the  following  items  of 

interest  to  the  scientist : 

This  evening  I  liave  taken  a  walk  among  the  grounded  bergy  pieces  of  ice 
that  are  near  the  west  side  of  this  island,  and  also  on  to  the  heavy  masses  of  ice 
that  are  high  and  dry  on  the  rocks  on  the  northwest  side.  Spring-tides  at  this 
season  of  the  year  open  a  book  that  any  Arctic  traveler  delights  to  read  and 
study.  The  special  part  of  this  book  of  nature  that  1  am  at  present  reading,  relates 
to  stones,  rocks,  and  sand  found  on  the  ice.  The  question  among  Arctic  navigators 
has  been,  "How  came  these  here?"  Parry,  when  on  his  second  voyage  for  the 
discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  met  with  much  ice  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Southampton  Island,  on  the  surface  of  which  he  saw  a  surprising  quantity  of 
stone,  sand,  shells,  and  weed ;  and  respecting  these  he  makes  the  following  re- 
marks in  his  Narrative  of  said  voyage,  pages  32  and  33. 

"While  on  this  subject,  I  may  offer  a  few  remarks  respecting  the  stone, 
sand,  shells,  and  weed  found  upon  the  surface  of  all  ice  in  this  neighborhood. 
The  quantity  in  which  these  substances  have  occurred  was  really  surprising,  and 
puzzled  us  extremely  to  account  for  the  manner  in  which  they  found  theii-  way 
upon  the  floe.  This  circumstance  has  been  generally  explained  by  simply  at- 
tributing it  to  the  whole  floe  having  been  in  immediate  contact  with  the  land, 
enabling  the  streams  to  wash,  or  the  winds  to  blow  these  substances  into  the  sit- 
uation in  which  they  are  found,  in  the  same  manner  as  they  are  deposited  on 
bergs  found  on  the  shore.  But  to  those  who  have  been  eye-witnesses  of  the  fact 
to  the  extent  in  which  it  here  occurred,  this  mode  of  explaining  it,  however  plausi- 
ble at  first  sight,  is  by  no  means  satisfactory ;  for  masses  of  rock,  not  less  than  a 
hundred  pounds  in  weight,  are  sometimes  observed  in  the  middle  of  a  floe  meas- 

S.  Ex.  27 13 


194  Bods  and  Debris  on  the  Ice. 

uiiiiu  half  a  mile  or  more  each  way,  and  of  which  the  whole  surface  is  more  or 
less  co\ero(l  Avith  smaller  stoues,  sand,  and  shells.  To  suppose  the  wind  strong 
enough  to  blow  these  substances  such  a  distance  would  be  absurd ;  nor  is  the 
supposition  of  their  having-  been  washed  there  scarcely  more  probable,  for  as  a 
floe  ot  ice  must  float  considerably  above  the  surface  of  the  sea,,  it  is  not  easy  to 
c'onceix  0  how  it  can  be  overflowed,  and  much  less  how  heavy  stones  can  be  car- 
ried half  a  mile  along"  it.  It  has  been  suggested  that  the  floe  may  be  held  down 
by  its  firm  cementation  to  the  shore  while  the  water  from  the  land  above  it 
rushes  in  a  torrent  along  its  upper  surface.  This,  however,  is  contrary  to  expe- 
rience, which  shows  that  long  before  the  streams  on  the  land  are  suflBcient  to 
eflect  this,  the  ice  next  the  shore  is  completely  thawed  and  detached  from  the 
beach,  and,  therefore,  at  liberty  to  float  in  the  natural  way.  The  only  explana- 
tion of  this  fact  that  I  can  suggest  is,  that,  as  it  is  generally  found  to  be  the  case 
to  the  greatest  extent  upon  the  '  hummocky'  floes,  the  substances  may  have  been 
(h'i>osited  upon  each  mass  of  ice  when  separate,  and  eventually  brought  into  the 
middle  of  a  large  floe  by  the  process  detailed  above.  This  explanation,  how- 
ever, goes  but  a  little  way  toward  clearing  up  the  difficult^" ;  for,  besides  the 
necessity  of  supposing,  in  this  case,  that  each  mass  of  ice  has  in  its  turn  been 
l)rought  into  close  contact  with  the  shore,  we  have  never  seen  an  instance  in  any 
bay  or  harbor  where  ice  so  brought,  even  under  the  most  favorable  circum- 
stances, has  received  any  such  deposit.  In  whatever  manner  it  may  be  eftected, 
it  is  certain  tliat  these  substances  act  an  essential  part  in  the  dissolution  of  the 
ice,  as  even  the  smallest  stone  or  collection  of  sand  may  always  be  observed  to 
have  formed  a  pool  of  water  around  it  in  consequence  of  the  radiation  of  heat 
from  its  surface." 

It  will  be  seen  nearly  at  the  commencement  of  these  remarks  of  Parry,  that 
he  says:  "The  quantity  in  which  these  substances  have  occurred  was  really  sur- 
l)rising,  and  puzzled  us  extremely  to  account  for  the  manner  in  which  they  found 
llieir  way  upon  the  floes."  The  same  subject  has  puzzled  many  a  man,  but  I  am 
rniiiidciii  the  fact  is  as  follows:  The  stones,  sand,  shells,  and  weeds  are  not 
deposited  upon  the  surface  of  the  ice;  they  simply  are  seen  or  appear  there,  as 
the  ice  e\aporates  or  wastes  away,  which  it  eventually  does  more  rapidly,  of 
course,  as  warm  weather  comes  on.  These  stones  and  other  substances  are  picked 
u\i  from  tlic  l»ottoiii  of  shallow  waters  by  the  ice  resting  awhile  upon  them  and 
brroiiiin;,'  (M'liiciilcd  to  them  by  the  fingers  of  King  Cold  during  low  tide;  and 
when  tlie  liood  makes,  u]>  goes  ice  with  its  ponderous  i)i(;kings.     But,  to  begin  at 


Bocks  and  Debris  on  the  Ice.  195 

the  beginning,  cold  weather  comes  on ;  the  waters  become  cokl,  and,  growing  colder 
as  winter  advances,  ice  forms;  the  tides  all  the  time  never  forgetting  their  regu- 
lar order  of  flood  and  ebb.  As  the  spring-tides  come  on,  during  their  ebb,  in  many 
shallow  i)arts  of  Hudson's  Bay,  sheets  of  ice  rest  ni)on  rocks,  stones,  shells,  and 
weeds.  These  sheets  of  ice,  as  they  lie,  send  down  showers  upon  th(^  idready 
moist  bottom,  all  of  which  conglaciate  at  once  into  a  solid  mass  by  the  piercing, 
pinching  cold  of  the  north.  Kocks  and  stones,  shells  and  weed,  sheets  of  ice, 
and  what  was  txickling  water  become  one  solid  body.  The  tide  now  floods  and 
lifts  the  floe,  having  on  its  nether  surface  a  ponderous  load  of  earthy  matter. 
Before  another  ebb,  King  Cold  has  succeeded  in  adding  several  inches  of  ice  under- 
neath the  structure  of  rocks,  stones,  land,  shells,  and  weeds,  which  are  now  com- 
pletely enveloped  in  crystal.  Ebb  and  flood  succeed  each  other,  and  as  often  add 
a  stone  or  other  foreign  matter,  and  then  another  stratum  of  ice  to  the  floe  or 
smaller  pieces  of  ice  that  during  certain  intervals  are  afloat  or  aground. 

I  will  now  proceed  to  give  some  proof  of  all  this  I  have  stated.  Three  winters 
I  have  spent  in  the  northern  regions,  two  of  them  in  the  locality  of  Frobisher  Bay. 
Many  times  have  I  seen  in  the  springs  succeeding  these  winters,  stones,  sand, 
shells,  and  weeds  on  the  top  of  bay-ice,  or  such  ice  as  had  been  formed  on  shallow 
waters.  As  warm  weather  advanced  and  the  ice  wasted  away,  more  and  more 
of  these  substances  would  appear.  My  attention  was  more  particularly  directed 
to  this  subject  during  my  search  on  my  voyage  of  18G0-'G2  for  one  of  the  relics  of 
Frobisher  in  the  Countess  of  Warwick's  Sound,  on  the  north  side  of  Frobisher 
Bay.  The  natives  had  told  me  where  one  of  their  people  had  thrown  an  anvil, 
some  five  years  before,  from  a  rock  by  the  bold  shore  of  Oo-pung-ne-wing  Island  into 
the  sea.  They  were  quite  sure  I  could  find  this  relic  on  the  disruption  and  drift- 
ing away  of  the  ice  in  the  summer,  providing  1  would  be  at  the  above-named 
island  at  some  low  spring-tide.  Corresponding  to  their  advice,  I  visited  the 
island  in  the  summer  of  1862,  and  at  low  tide  the  rock  bottom  all  about  the  place 
indicated  from  whence  the  anvil  had  been  thrown,  was  just  above  water;  but  no 
anvil  could  be  found ;  indeed,  not  a  loose  stone  was  thereabout.  The  shore-i(;e 
had  licked  up  everything  movable,  not  leaving  even  so  valuable  a  relic  as  the 
one  sought,  three  centuries  old.  The  manner  in  which  this  relic  was  lost  to  the 
world  any  one  can  judge  on  reading  what  I  have  now  written.  The  shore-ice 
having  enveloped  the  anvil  in  its  crystal  walls  during  the  winter  season,  on  its 
being  free  from  land  in  the  succeeding  summer,  drifted  away  with  what  would 
have  been  to  me  a  valuable  treasure.     Had  that  piece  of  shore-ice  been  seen  by 


196  Rocks  and  Debris  on  the  Ice. 

some  one  at  some  particular  time  altoiward,  -svliile  it  was  wasting  away,  drifting 
and  straggling  about,  no  doubt  but  tbe  anvil  would  have  appeared  as  though 
deposited  on  it. 

I  come  now  do^vn  to  the  present  time,  to  what  can  now  be  seen  on  and 
mar  the  shore  of  this  island.  The  present  spring-tides  have  opened  a  rich 
lieJd  for  study.  They  have  by  their  wonderful  action  shown  me  how  quickly 
they  can  transform  the  "thrice-ribbed  ice"  into  dancing  sparkling  waters;  how 
(luickly  tht',^■  can  tear  away  and  destroy  mountaiu  barriers  of  ice,  giving  free 
waters  for  ships  to  sail  in.  These  spring-tides  have  just  been  ripi)ing  up  huge 
masses  of  ice  lining  the  shores,  and  such  ice  as  the  winter's  cold  formed  over  the 
shallow  waters  near  to  the  island  on  its  western  side.  Could  Parry  and  others 
who  weie  puzzled  extretnely  to  account  for  the  manner  in  which  stones,  sand, 
shells,  and  weed  found  their  way  upon  the  Hoe,  but  have  seen  what  I  have  wit- 
nessed this  evening,  they  would  no  longer  have  had  any  question  about  the 
matter.  There  is  one  mass  of  ice  lying  within  a  couple  of  stone-throws  of  my 
tupU:^  which  is  some  G  feet  in  thickness  and  .50  by  100  feet  square.  The  ebbing 
tide  has  left  one  corner  of  this  resting  on  another  j)iece  equally  thick,  which  lies 
directly  flat  on  the  rocky  bottom  that  is  now  bare  from  low  tide.  The  position  of 
this  piece  of  ice,  with  its  corner  thus  resting  on  another  piece,  is  on  an  incline, 
showing  its  top,  sides,  and  bottom  most  favorably.  The  whole  mass  consists  of 
strata  of  stones,  rocks,  and  sand  and  ice,  the  strata  running  jjarallel  with  the  top 
and  bottom  of  this  frozen  mass.  From  the  top  of  this  piece,  stones  are  peei-ing 
out.  Near  one  end  is  a  rock  of  150  pounds  weight,  or  more,  nearly  denuded  of  ice. 
As  can  be  seen  at  the  sides  and  ends,  megular  thicknesses  of  layers  of  stones  and 
sand  occur.  The  upper  part  of  this  ice  is  much  freer  of  those  substances  than 
thr  lower  hall'.  Comparatively,  but  few  stones  and  small  collections  of  sand  are 
in  the  upper  i)ortion,  while  the  beds  below  consist  of  an  astonishing  quantity. 
Indeed,  the  bottom  is  a  stratum  of  nothing  but  rocks,  stone,  and  sand  that  are 
glue<l  together  by  invisible  ice.  Just  above  this  bottom  layer  is  a  sheet  of  six 
inches  in  tliickness  of  sea-ice,  and  then  a  little  higher  up,  comes  another  layer  of 
rocks,  stones,  and  sand,  following  which  is  clear  ice  again.  I  should  judge  that 
at  least  tic<>  or  three  torn  of  earthy  matter  is  frozen  into  that  one  piec(;  of  ice  that 
1  have  just  described.  Hut  thi.s  piece  of  ice  is  only  one  of  the  many  that  are  now 
to  be  seen  lying  around  on  the  rocks  left  bare  by  the  ebb-tide.  Some  have  only 
a  few  ston<'s  uj)on  and  in  llieni.  This  feature  is,  however,  plainly  to  be  seen  in 
nearly  all,  that  the  stones  and  ice  are  in  strata.     During  the  day  much  ice  has 


Rocks  and  Debris  on  the  Ice.  \\)1 

been  drifting'  along  by  this  island,  and  every  now  and  then  pieces  of  ice  bore  npon 
their  smface  stones  and  rocks  fully  exposed.  As  the  -waves  lilted  them  np,  rock- 
ing them  to  and  fro,  exposing  one  side  or  one  end  of  each  of  these,  strata  of  stones 
were  to  be  seen.  These  masses  of  ice  had  been  disengaged  from  a  belt  of  hnm- 
mncky  floe  that  was  a  part  of  the  lixed  ice  during  the  past  winter  in  Uaviland 
Bay.  Uow  these  masses  of  ice  charged  with  earthy  matter  get  into  the  midst  of 
a  fixed  floe  overlying  deep  water  is  easily  accounted  for.  A  cold  summer  per- 
haps succeeds  the  winter,  and  before  this  ice  is  dissolved,  another  winter  sets 
in  and  fastens  it  firmly  in  the  midst  of  a  new  floe,  or  surrounds  it  with  old  hum- 
mocky  ice;  all  of  Avliich  becomes  cemented  together  by  the  advancing  cold,  freez- 
ing weather.        *        *        # 

I  must  notice  here  what  Parry  says  relative  to  the  comparative  times  of 
the  dissolution  of  the  shore-ice  and  water  rushing  in  torrents  from  the  land 
in  these  northern  regions :  "  It  has  been  suggested  that  the  floe  may  be  held 
down  by  its  firm  cementation  to  the  shore  while  the  water  from  the  land  above 
it  rushes  in  a  torrent  along  its  upper  surface.  This,  however,  is  contrary  to  ex- 
l)erience,  which  shows  that  long  before  the  streams  on  the  land  are  sufficient  to 
effect  this,  the  ice  next  the  shore  is  completely  thawed  and  detached  from  the 
beach,  and,  therefore,  at  liberty  to  float  in  the  natural  way." 

If  I  understand  Parry  rightly  he  means  this :  that,  from  his  experience, 
long  before  the  snow^s  on  the  land  of  this  northern  country  melt — causing  streams, 
some  of  which  rush  in  torrents — the  ice  next  the  shore  completely  thaws  and 
becomes  detached  from  the  beach. 

Now,  my  experience  is  directly  the  reverse  of  this ;  that  is  to  say,  from 
what  I  have  seen,  long  before  the  ice  next  the  shore  thaws  and  becomes  detached 
from  the  beach,  the  snows  on  the  land  melt,  causing  streams — indeed,  some, 
rivers — some  of  these  streams  and  rivers  rushing  torrent-like  down  the  mountain- 
sides and  thence  over  the  ice  belting  the  shore,  and  over  the  ice  covering  the 
waters  of  many  bays,  coves,  and  inlets.  At  the  present  time,  wherever  I  look,  the 
land  is  almost  completely  denuded  of  snow,  and  has  been  so  for  weeks,  while  the 
shores  of  the  mainland  and  of  the  islands  are  in  many  places  still  belted  with  the 
"  ice-foot,"  as  Dr.  Kane  termed  the  ice  next  the  land. 

Until  now,  Eepulse  Bay  has  been  covered  over,  mostly  with  its  fixed  ice  of 
last  winter's  formation,  and  this  while  many  of  the  rushing  torrents  have  long 
since  dried  up,  their  source— the  melting  snows— having  disappeared.  Wherever 
these  streams  rim  for  a  considerable  time  over  the  fixed  floes,  they  cut  their  way — 


198  Itocks  and  Debris  on  the  Ice. 

a  canal — coiniiletcly  throu^L.  Often  in  passing  over  the  ice  Lave  I  been  checked 
in  my  course  from  meeting  these  winding,  river-like  channels  in  the  ice,  being  un- 
able to  leap  them,  and  obliged  to  make  to  the  mainland  that  1  miglit  renew  my 
course  again.  It  is  tndy  a  wonder  to  me  that  Parry's  experience  was  such  as  he 
has  recorded.  From  what  I  have  just  written,  no  one  will  suppose  that  I  wish  to 
make  torrents  and  more  quiet  streams  from  the  land  the  means  by  which  stones, 
sand,  and  shells,  and  weeds  get  upon  or  into  the  ice-floe,  though  I  may  say  that 
occasionally  such  is  the  fact. 


HAPTER     yiT. 


A    SECOND    WINTER    LIFE— PREPARATIONS    FOR    THE 
FIRST  SLEDGE  JOURNEY  TO  KING  WILLIAM'S  LAND. 


SEPTEMBER,  1!!65,  TO  APRIL,  J8G6. 


CHAPTER    VII. 


Plans  for  a  sledge  journey  ln  the  spring — Separation  from  the  Innxhts— Ebiep^ing, 

TOO-KOO-LI-TOO,  AND  AR-MOU'S  FAMILY  REMAIN  WITH  HaXL — HiS  INTEREST  IN  THE  DEER- 
HUNTS — Danger  to  life  experienced— An  aurora  described  by  Hall  as  seen  from 

HIS  BED  on  the   ROCKS — LaRGE  NUMBER  OF  DEER  SLAIN — HaLL'S  REINDEER  DEPOSITS — 

Severe  gale — Too-koo-li-too's  remembrance  of  the  Brooklyn  ladies  wishing  her 
TO  dress  like  civilized  people — Exposures  on  visiting  the  deposits — Failure  to 
catch  salmon — Hall's  daily  subsistence — He  prepares  skin  garjients— Removal  to 
Now-YARN — News  of  the  drowning  of  Ar-too-a — Feasts  and  amusements  at  Now- 
YARN — Visit  to  Oo-gla-ri-your  Islant) — Troubles  with  the  natives — Reconcilia- 
tion AND  encouragements — TEMPERATURE  OF  THE  WINTER  MONTHS — FREQUENT  AU- 
RORAS— Readiness  for  a  forward  move  to  King  William's  Land. 

The  experience  of  the  first  Arctic  year  has  been  detailed,  and  its 
journals  have  given  an  insight  into  the  daily  life  to  which  one  was 
necessarily  subjected  who  looked  forward  to  the  accomplishment  of  a 
'' mission"  through  assistance  furnished  by  the  Eskimos.  The  details 
of  a  second  winter  life  among  the  same  people  would  not  be  profitably 
presented  in  the  cases  in  which  almost -identically  like  experiences  were 
passed  through.  This  chapter,  therefore,  will  offer  but  the  thread  of 
Hall's  occupations  during  this  period,  with  a  recital  of  such  occur- 
rences as  were  new  to  him  from  his  changed  location,  partial  isolation 
from  the  larger  number  of  his  Innuit  friends,  and  necessar}-  self- 
dependence  for  subsistence  and  for  a  preparation  to  renew  his  advance 

•iOl 


202  Hall  Hunting  the  Deer.  [September,  ises. 

toward  King  William's  Land.  His  ]jlans  for  the  next  year  involved 
the  securing  of  the  continued  friendship  of  the  Innuits,  and  the  stor- 
ing of  sufficient  provisions  for  a  long  sledge  journey,  as  well  as  for 
maintaining  life  through  the  approaching  winter. 

The  larger  part  of  the  tribe  now  located  themselves  in  places  at 
snmc  distance  from  liim ;  at  first,  going  off  to  the  lakes  above  North 
Pole  River  to  hunt,  and,  after  their  return,  living  nearly  all  the  rest 
ot  tlie  season  at  the  point  named  on  the  map  (page  211)  as  Now-yarn 
Harbor.  Between  this  and  Fort  Hope  visits  were  at  times  exchanged, 
and,  during  the  two  mid-winter  months  Hall  lived  with  the  natives  at 
Now-\arn.  Ebierljing  and  Too-koo-li-too,  from  the  first,  remained 
close  b}'  him,  and  for  the  sake  of  the  latter  who  expected  to  give  birth 
to  a  child,  Ar-mou's  family  by  the  consent  of  the  chief,  Ou-e-la,  re- 
mained for  some  time  at  Fort  Hope.  For  the  same  reason,  chiefly, 
Hall  himself  did  not  accompany  the  party  to  the  lakes. 

lie  soon  became  deepl}'  interested  in  the  deer-hunts,  making 
liiiiisclf  a  good  marksman,  and  being  rewarded  with  a  large  success. 
l)uring  the  month  of  September,  and  until  the  migrations  of  the 
deer  ceased  in  the  month  following,  liis  notes  are  full  of  wearisome 
l»ursuits,  made  almost  daily  over  the  rough  hills  and  the  hummocks  of 

tlic  sea-ice 

riic  record  of  one  of  these  hunts  is  this:  Leaving  his  hut  with 
l*J)ierbiii;_'-  at  H  a.  m.  of  Sei)tember  10,  at  midday,  when  three  miles 
lie  lit  li  ut'  tlieir  li(»me,  they  first  saw  a  band  of  seventeen  deer  one 
of  which  ihill  succeeded  in  killing.  Making  a  deposit  of  this,  and 
traveliiiL;  t\\. .  miles  further,  they  sighted  two  others  which  were  rest- 
'"-  ""  'li''  plain  The  hiiiit(M-s  cantiousK'  concealed  themselves 
IkIuimI  the  idrks,  and  when  the  animals  had  come  near  to  them,  brows- 


wrptcmbcr,  1865. i  Closc  Sliootmg.  203 

ing,  Ebierbing  crept  across  the  plain,  makinf^  it  impossible  for  the 
deer  to  cross  in  front  of  a  little  lake  near  by  without  exposing  them- 
selves to  his  clear  aim.  The  hunters,  however,  found  themselves  in  the 
embarrassing  position  that  neither  one  could  fire  without  endangering 
the  life  of  the  other.  Just  as  Hall  had  taken  aim,  he  remembered 
Ebierbing,  dropped  his  rifle,  and  hid  himself  behind  the  rocks  at  the 
moment  when  Ebierbing's  ball  which  had  passed  through  the  first 
deer,  whizzed  olose  to  his  head.  Seeing,  however,  that  his  com- 
])anion  had  now,  in  turn,  hid  himself,  he  shot  the  second  deer,  giv- 
ing Ebierbing  the  pleasure  of  a  possible  experience  like  his  own. 
Each  felt  that  he  had  made  a  narrow  escape. 

Securing  three  more  from  the  next  herd,  they  skinned  their 
prizes,  and,  as  the  sun  was  now  setting,  determined  to  remain  and 
cache  them  the  next  day.  For  their  sleeping-place  they  built  a  wall 
of  stones  on  the  windward  side  of  a  bed  of  moss  on  which,  after 
smoking,  chatting,  and  supping  on  raw  venison,  the}"  fell  comfortably 
asleep,  each  having  one  of  the  deer-skins  for  his  bed,  another  for  his 
pillow,  and  a  third  for  his  coverlid.  They  awoke  to  find  their  cover- 
ings hard  frozen,  ice  to  the  thickness  of  three-eighths  of  an  inch  having 
formed  during  the  night  on  the  pools  of  water  near  them ;  but  at  an 
early  hour  they  made  their  caches  of  the  deer,  loaded  the  packs  of 
skins  upon  their  backs,  and  continued  the  hunt  throughout  a  second 
day,  securing,  however,  but  one  more  animal. 

Neither  the  fatigue  of  the  journey  nor  the  excitement  through 
which  Hall  had  passed  prevented  him  from  writing  while  on  his 
rough  bed: 

The  evening  glorious,  the  clear  sky,  the  moon,  the  stars!  and  now,  at  9^.,  the 
aurora  grandly  playing  its  fantastic  tricks.    Was  ever  man  more  blest  with  an 


2()4  An  Aurora  Noted  from  a  Hard  Bed.       [September,  ises. 

opportunity  for  observing  some  of  Nature's  grand  order  of  creation  than  I  to-night, 
here  on  my  back,  with  the  heavens  stretched  out  and  moving,  panorama-like,  be- 
fore me  ?  O,  the  wondrous  workings  of  the  aurora  I  Their  mysteries  seem  i>ast 
finding  out.  The  more  I  see  them,  the  less  I  know.  The  display  to-night  most 
gorgeous.  At  first,  the  low  extended  arch  to  the  southward — its  slow  rising — 
tin-  dancing  beams  flying  to  and  fro  from  one  end  of  the  arch  to  the  other — the 
arch  multiplied  into  others  in  beautiful  disorder — the  prismatic  fringe  at  the  base 
of  the  rays.  As  the  now  several  arches  get  higher  and  higher  they  become  more 
and  more  lively.  Now  they  shoot  up  to  the  zenith,  and  their  motions  become  too 
quick  for  the  eye  to  follow  them.  Now  the  ujiper  heavens  are  filled  with  the 
aurora  as  though  in  battle  ;  sublime  and  inspiring.  I  cannot  describe  the  scene  ; 
I  can  simply  behold,  and  praise  God,  the  author  of  these  glorious  works. 

During  the  month  of  September  ninety-thi-ee  deer  were  deposited, 
and  within  the  next  month  and  the  first  week  of  November  fifty  more 
were  secured ;  in  the  latter  part  of  September  they  were  frequently 
seen  in  large  numbers,  and  Hall  estimated  that  as  many  as  a  thousand 
passed  in  one  day.  The  Innuits  at  the  lakes,  who  were  not  equally 
fortunate,  said  that  the  prevalence  of  the  southerly  winds  had  kept  the 
deer  lower  down,  near  the  seashore.  A  few  were  seen  by  Hall  as  late 
as  the  27th  of  January  ;  these  were,  at  the  time,  going  northward. 
They  did  not  again  appear  until  the  end  of  March,  when  the  does  that 
were  ^^•ith  young  had  begun  their  migration.  Their  rutting  season 
had  been  in  October,  during  which,  frequently,  they  were  more  readily 
ca])tured. 

Tlie  details  of  labor  and  exposure  to  which  Hall  subjected  himself 
wlien  depositing  the  carcasses  of  his  slain  animals  are  as  interesting  as 
those  of  the  hunt.  One  record  will  suffice.  It  is  largely  condensed 
from  his  notes,  throughout  the  fullness  of  which  no  items  are  found 
which  AVMuld  tempt  one  to  suspect  that  the  account  is  one  of  exagger- 
ated trials.  'Hicy  boar  on  their  face  the  simplicity  of  that  truthfulness 
wliicli  if  iii;iy  1)(.  June  said,  once  for  all,  has  been  conceded  on  all  sides 


October,  1865.]  Severs  Exposures  205 

to  have  been  a  marked  element  in  his  character,  and  whicli  liis  stead- 
fast companion,  Ebierbing,  has  uniformly  claimed  for  him. 

On  the  20th  of  October,  at  8  a.  m.,  in  the  midst  of  a  gale  with 
snow  and  flj'ing  drift,  the  two  w^ent  out  to  make  deposits  of  the  deer 
which  they  had  killed  the  day  before.  With  rifles  in  hand,  they 
crossed  hill  and  valley  to  Hall's  own  favorite  deer-pass,  where  he  had 
been  accustomed  to  watch  for  the  animals  behind  his  stone  wall.  The 
first  labor  was  to  recover  here  his  double-barreled  gun  from  a  deep 
snow-drift,  and  this  required  of  both,  a  laborious  shoveling  of  twenty 
minutes.  Following  the  ridge  of  high  land  from  the  deer-pass  south 
toward  Gibson's  Cove,  they  came  upon  their  five  slain  animals,  the 
last  one  they  had  shot  being  a  big  buck.  It  had  been  left  unskinned, 
and  the  legs  only  were  frozen.  The  skin  was  taken  off,  and  the  car- 
cass disemboweled  and  cut  into  the  three  principal  pieces,  which  were 
dragged  a  little  way  further  to  a  stony  spot,  where  the  weight  of  a  ton 
and  a  half  of  rock  was  piled  upon  them;  the  bristling  antlers  were 
left  projecting  above  to  mark  the  cache  To  find  rock  and  stones  for 
covering  the  other  three  animals,  Hall  climbed  the  highest  part  of  the 
ridge,  where,  by  heavy  pounding,  he  and  Ebierbing  secured  two  and 
a  half  tons.  When  they  had  dragged  two  of  the  deer  up  this  hill,  a 
rest  was  made  for  lunch  on  some  of  the  unfrozen  legs  and  for  a  smoke; 
but  to  light  their  pipes  a  match  w^as  struck  after  many  trials  only,  and 
by  their  crowding  down  into  a  deep  snow-bank  and  bending  their 
bodies  and  heads  over  for  a  roof  against  the  storm.  As  they  sat  enjoy- 
ing their  puffing,  the  sight  and  the  noise  around  them  were  such  as 
w^ould  have  struck  terror  and  dismay  into  the  heart  of  any  one  inex- 
perienced in  Arctic  life.  The  darkening  clouds  of  sharp,  cutting, 
blinding  snow   flying  on  the  wdngs  of  the  gale,  the  howling  of  the 


206 


HaJJ  and  Ehierhing  again  Successful. 


I  October,  1863. 


Storm,  and  the  cold,  frowninf^-,  icy  rocks,  although  sheltering  them 
for  tlie  moment,  were  enough.  Hall  said,  to  make  one  exclaim,  "  None 
hut  devils  should  be  doomed  to  such  an  unmerciful  punishment."  On 
returning  to  their  third  deer,  they  found  that  the  foxes  had  dragged  off 
the  head  and  nearly  cleaned  off  the  meat.  The  paunches  of  all  three 
were  then  buried  within  a  skin  in  a  snow-drift ;  to  be  recovered  when 
the  gale  ceased  The  first  animal  which  they  had  killed  and  sledded 
u])on  a  skin  some  distance  further  on,  was  also  cached  with  hard  labor. 
The  whole  da^-'s  work  had  been  in  the  teeth  of  gale  and  drift. 

Entering  the  hut,  on  their  return,  each  seemed  to  the  other  a  pil- 
lar of  snow^,  until  th6y  had  for  a  long 
hour  pounded  and  threshed  their  na- 
tive dresses  with  their  ar-roiv-tars. 
But  they  brought  in  with  them  a 
good  store  of  food,  for  Ebierbing  had 
carried  on  his  back,  two  legs  and  five 
slabs  of  meat,  beside  much  tallow, 
with  e-ver-tu  (sinew)  for  thread.  Hall 
had  on  his  shoulders,  with  his  gun, 
a  substantial  saddle  of  meat.  Their 
stores  left  outside  had  been  also  made 
''safe  in  the  midst  of  the  storm  from 
the  jaws  of  the  fox,  the  wolf,  and  the 
equally  hungry  crow." 

The  gale  continued  unbroken 
for  five  successive  days.  Hall  notes 
iliis  as  luiexampled  in  his  experience  as  regards  its  constancy, 
force,  and  direction,  of  wliich  he  niadc^  entries  in   his  meteorological 


November,  1865.]  Refruction.  207 

ivcord.  Too-koo-li-too  expressed  a  wish  that  the  lady  wlio  told  her 
at  the  Brooklyn  fair  in  New  York  that  Iiinuits  ought  to  dress  like 
ladies  in  the  States,  could  herself  take  a  minute's  walk  only  at  this 
time  over  the  hill  near  by,  when  she  would  be  very  glad  to  change 
her  fine  hat  and  hoop-skirts  for  any  one  of  an  Innuit's  rough 
dresses. 

The  journals  of  November  29  and  30  have  interesting  notes  of 
refraction  and  of  a  parhelion.  The  29th  was  a  gloriously  fine  day, 
although  rather  cold,  the  mean  of  four  observations  of  Hall's  ther- 
mometer No.  5  being  65°. 4  below  freezing-point.  From  midday  till 
evening  the  sky  was  cloudless  and  the  air  calm.  At  10^'  12"^-  4P^''' 
mean  time  of  Fort  Hope,  the  lower  limb  of  the  sun  was  half  a  degree 
above  the  sea-horizon.  The  place  of  Hall's  observation  was  on  the 
crest  of  the  hill  back  of  his  igloo,  directly  opposite  Beacon  Hill ;  the 
igloo  and  the  hill  being  on  opposite  sides  of  the  small  stream  known 
as  North  Pole  River. 

At  sunrise  and  for  a  half  hour  later,  the  refraction  south  and  east 
was  very  great ;  for  Southampton  Island  loomed  up  from  ten  to  thirty 
minutes  of  arc  above  the  sea-horizon.  The  island  is  never  visible 
from  the  place  of  observation  named,  except  by  refraction ;  and  Hall 
had  frequently  looked  in  vain  for  it  from  elevated  points  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. Cape  Frigid,  the  most  northerly  point  of  Southampton,  lies 
in  about  lat.  6(y°  N.,  long.  85°  25'  W.,  by  Parry's  chart;  and  by  the 
same  chart,  the  junction  of  the  river  with  the  headwaters  of  Gibson's 
Cove  is  in  lat.  66°  32'  N.,  long.  86°  50'  W.,  the  last  of  which  positions, 
however,  Hall  believed,  involves  an  eiTor  in  the  chart,  of  seven  miles. 
The  cape  was  forty-seven  geographical  miles  distant,  but  the  refraction 
was  so  great  that  Hall  saw  not  only  that  point,  but  the  coast  on  both 


208  A  Mock-Sun.  rwoTcmbcr,  ises. 

sides  of  the  island  far  down  southward.  Nearly  the  whole  entrance 
to  Repulse  Bay  from  Beach  Point  easterly,  had  land  looming-  up 
above  the  sea-horizon  in  a  thousand  fantastic  and  constantly-changing- 
forms.  Before  and  at  sunrise  a  zone  of  about  five  degrees  in  width 
from  the  horizon  up  was  of  resplendent  colors,  extending  completely 
around  the  heavens ;  that  half  of  the  circle  which  was  opposite  the  sun 
being  the  more  gorgeous.  On  the  going  down  of  the  sun  the  glow- 
ing zone  was  again  in  view.  Such  a  display-  is  not  unusual  in  fine 
weather  during  the  Arctic  winter. 

At  1 1  a.  m.  of  the  30th,  he  was  on  the  top  of  Oven  Hill,  riewing  the 
sun  and  a  splendid  parhelion  22  J  degrees  east  of  it.  On  account  of  the 
cloudiness  of  the  heavens,  there  was  no  corresponding  parhelion  visi- 
ble on  the  opposite  or  west  side  of  the  sun.  In  fifteen  minutes  after 
the  time  given  above,  the  sun  became  completely  obscured  by  clouds ; 
but  the  parhelion  continued  shining  almost  as  brightly  as  though  it 
were  the  great  luminary  itself.  Thinking  to  improve  the  occasion  in 
determining  the  illusion  to  be  a  complete  one,  he  hastened  down  to  the 
ifjloo,  called  Ebierbing  and  Ar-mou,  and  requested  them  to  point  out 
to  him  where  the  sun  was.  They  both  pointed  directly  to  the  parhe- 
lion with  the  utmost  confidence  that  it  was  the  true  sun;  their  very 
looks  at  him  bespoke  the  unmistakable  sentiment,  "Any  man  that  is 
not  blind  can  see  that  there  is  the  sun  ! "  Hall  smiled,  and  then  his 
"  good  native  friends "  scanned  to  the  right  and  left  of  what  they 
really  thought  to  be  the  sun ;  but  their  assurance  remained  the  same.  He 
tli<)i  pointed  22  J  degrees  to  the  west  of  the  phenomenon  and  told  them 
that  ill  ih;it  direction  was  the  sun.  "At  this  time  it  wanted  only  fifteen 
niiiiutcs  (.f  Ijciug  apparent  noon,  when,  of  course,  the  sun  would  be 
due  south  of  them.    A  moment's  reflection  on  the  part  of  Ebierbing  and 


December,  i8«5.i     F<md  With  Difficulty  Obtained  from  the  Deposits.        209 

Ar-mou  then  satisfied  them  that  it  was  only  a  mock-sun  they  had 
beheld." 

Visits  to  the  deposits  like  those  made  during  the  autumn  were  re- 
peated through  the  winter  as  often  as  the  necessities  for  food  required. 
On  the  2d  of  December,  Hall  started  up  North  Pole  River  with  two  dogs 
for  a  team  and  a  deer-skin  for  a  sledge.  He  found  lialf  a  saddle  eaten 
by  foxes,  or  perhaps  by  some  smaller  animal,  which,  from  tlie  Iinuiits' 
description,  he  thought  must  be  the  weasel.  This  deposit  he  had  made 
on  ground  six  feet  above  the  river-level ;  but  a  six-day  gale  and  storm 
had  formed  anchor-ice  on  the  boulders  in  the  river's  bed,  bringing  the 
waters  up  from  their  passage  under  the  ice  to  overflow  it  a  long  way 
down  the  estuary  before  reaching  the  sea.  The  deposits  made  on  the 
banks  were  therefore  almost  entirely  lost.  When  he  had  attempted, 
a  few  days  before,  to  open  this  cache  by  the  use  of  sharp  stones  as 
wedges  and  of  boulders  for  his  hammers,  he  had  succeeded  only  in  mak- 
ing a  few  crevices,  but  through  these  the  depredations  had  now  been 
made.  On  this  visit  he  fastened  his  dogs  by  their  draught-lines  to  the 
rocks;  but  they  no  sooner  saw  the  chips  of  the  frozen  meat  flying  right 
and  left  from  the  blows  of  a  dull  ax,  than  they  began  a  yelping,  bark- 
ing, and  springing  to  be  loosened,  which  continued  through  the  two 
hours  he  was  at  work.  "  With  much  patience  exercised  in  those 
hours  of  profuse  perspiration,"  he  secured  the  larger  part  of  the  meat, 
and  then  unfastened  his  dogs  to  revel  on  the  scattered  morsels  and 
gnaw  at  the  mass  mixed  with  the  ice  and  stones.  The  larger  frag- 
ments and  chips,  placed  on  the  deer-skin  sledge  out  of  their  reach, 
were  drawn  back  to  the  igloo. 

On  a  second  journey  for  a  like  object,  made  in  the  month  follow- 
ing, he  set  out  with  Nu-ker-zhoo  from  Now-yam  before  daylight,  the 

S.  Ex.  27 14 


210  No  Bites  by  the  Salmon.  ijrannnry,  isee. 

moon  a  few  days  past  full,  and  the  temperature,  46°  below  zero.  They 
expected  to  remain  out  through  the  following  night,  yet  took  no  addi- 
tions to  their  winter  traveling- dress.  A  snow-knife  was  carried  to  cut 
out  their  igJoo.  The  bracing  air  incited  the  dogs  to  their  full  speed, 
so  that  after  crossing  the  sea-ice  and  ascending  a  small  ravine  on  the 
surface  of  a  rivulet  leading  up  from  a  fiord  of  the  bay,  by  sunrise  they 
were  twelve  miles  from  the  igloos  and  near  the  deposit.  The  land  in 
the  neighborhood  was  extremely  low;  that  lying  far  to  the  north  and 
east  was  high — called  King-naw  by  Nu-Jcer-zJwo.  A  fresh  breeze  added 
new  stimulus  to  a  work  of  profuse  perspiration  despite  the  intensity 
of  the  cold;  but  before  dark  they  had  returned  home,  dragging  with 
them  on  their  sled  four  heavy  packages  of  venison-saddles  sewed  up 
in  deer-skins.  It  had  been  necessary  to  re-ice  the  runners  of  the  sled 
with  moss.  Their  breakfast  of  raw  frozen  meat  had  been  eaten  under 
the  protection  of  the  snow-pillars  supporting  two  hj-aks. 

No  subsistence  but  the  deer-meat  was  found  during  this  season, 
excepting  occasionally  a  few  salmon,  or  as  many  as  a  dozen  partridges. 
Hall  attempted  to  catch  salmon  in  a  lake  three  miles  east  of  Beacon 
Hill,  where  he  baited  many  hooks  in  holes  through  the  fourteen-inch 
ice  Dr.  Rae,  in  1 853-54,  had  found  this  lake  well  filled,  but  Hall  did 
not  get  a  bite.  The  story  of  the  natives  was  that  no  fish  had  been 
caught  in  this  lake  since  Rae  lost  his  net  in  it.  Presents  were  more 
than  once  brought  in  of  salmon  from  30  to  36  inches  in  length,  which 
were  either  eaten  raw  or  parboiled  in  fresh  water,  making,  when  fat, 
a  rich  soup. 

The  provisions  which  had  been  brought  to  Fort  Hope  were  spar- 
ingly used.  The  main  dependence  was  upon  venison,  which  was 
usually  taken  raw,  with  tood-noo  or  seal-blubl)er  (often  old  and  rancid) 


January,  J  866.]  Hatd  mul  Poor  Fare.  211 

for  butter.  A  favorite  dish  with  both  Hall  and  the  Innuits  was  sea- 
bread  soaked  in  ice-water  sweetened  with  molasses ;  with  this  he  often 
treated  his  visitors.  At  times  his  storehouse  was  filled  with  meat, 
and  a  season  of  feasting  ensued;  often,  however,  through  failure  in 
recovering  deposits,  or  through  caprice  in  the  Innuits,  he  was  placed 
on  short  rations.  One  extract  from  the  record  of  January  21  will  show 
his  condition  at  such  times: 

I  arise  usually  between  seven  and  eight  in  the  morning,  and  then  smoke  a 
little,  which  for  a  time  makes  me  feel  less  hungry.  After  a  while  I  cut  a  few  chips 
from  whatever  little  choice  block  of  venison  I  may  happen  to  liave,  and  eat  the 
same  raw  and  hard  frozen.  As  eating  venison  alone  is  dry  work  unless  one  has 
tood-noo,  I  eat  seal-blubber,  which  is  old,  of  strong  odor,  and  of  strong-old-cheese 
taste.  About  4  ounces  of  venison  and  1  ounce  of  blubber  make  my  breakfast.  Had 
1  abundance  of  the  former,  I  should  eat  nearer  4  pounds  than  4  ounces,  for  it  must 
be  remembered  that  it  takes  a  great  deal  of  the  venison  of  this  country  to  supply 
one's  appetite  and  necessities  in  the  winter.  In  the  neighborhood  of  noon  (really 
there  is  no  particular  time  of  one's  taking  his  meals  when  living  as  the  Innuits 
do),  I  dine  on  what  would  be  caUed  old,  stinking,  nauseating  whale-skin;  but  to  a 
hungry  soul  every  bitter  thing  is  sweet,  and  I,  indeed,  find  it  so.  Some  of  the  effects 
on  eating  the  first  few  times  of  this  muTc-tuk  (whale-skin)  are  severe  griping  i^aius 
in  the  stomach  and  bowels,  followed  by  copious  diarrhea.  Nearly  every  luuuit, 
great  and  small,  in  the  village,  as  well  as  myself,  has  suffered  thus  by  eating  this 
whale-skin;  there  were  seven  patients  on  my  hands  one  day  last  week  suffering 
with  the  above-named  complaints.  For  my  lunch,  or  supper,  I  pick  out  the  fatty 
substance  of  a  whale-fin,  and  eat  with  it  a  little  more  of  my  toolc-too  meat,  about 
the  same  amount  as  for  breakfast,  toj)ping  off  with  delicate  slices  of  raw  whale- 
beef,  or  of  the  aforesaid  whale-skin,  and  go  to  bed  hungry;  but  as  soon  as  asli*ep 
I  dream  of  friends  and  better  times  coming. 

From  the  scarcity  of  fuel,  little  cooking  could  be  done.  But  the 
customs  of  the  Innuits  now  required  Too-koo-li-too  in  her  peculiar 
condition  to  eat  nothing  but  cooked  meat,  and  an  additional  drain  was 
made  upon  their  small  store  of  fuel  in  drying  skins  for  their  clothing. 
The  seal-oil,  which  had  been  so  industriously  collected,  had  suffered 


212  The  Living  at  Fort  Hope.  (janaary,  isoo. 

from  tlie  depredations  of  the  bears  and  the  wolves,  and  the  heather 
which  had  been  gathered,  was  mainly  used,  toward  spring,  in  browning 
a  supply  of  coffee  for  use  on  the  proposed  sledge  journey.  Coffee 
was  served  only  wlien  Hall  wished  specially  to  please  his  visitors. 
A  corn-meal  pudding  was  not  relished,  because  of  his  long-continued 
use  of  raw  meat.  "A  reindeer-head,  with  a  complement  of  tood-noo 
and  the  paunch-contents  stewed  in  water  and  reindeer-blood,  was  a  rare 
and  savorv  dish"  Oil  was  sipped,  and  tallow  and  marrow  in  consider- 
able c^uantity  eaten  every  day  with  the  raw  frozen  venison.  He  was 
thus  enabled  to  bear  much  cold  without  suffering;  and  he  says,  with 
a  dry  humor,  that  sometimes  while  feasting  on  tood-noo^  he  was  appre- 
hensive of  a  like  fate  with  the  Innuit  who,  after  drinking  a  large  quan- 
tity of  water  with  his  melted  tood-noo,  died  from  the  formation  of  a 
hu"-e  tallow  candle  in  his  stomach. 

So  much  for  often  sipping  train-oil  and  eating  whale  and  seal  blubber;  all  of 
\\  hicli  three  articles  are  to  Innuits  and  myself  what  butter  is  to  those  in  civilized 
lands.  Besides,  I  frequently  feast  on  tallow  candles,  which  word  I  use  as  a  fig- 
lue  lor  pure  deer's  tallow ;  but  really  I  have  made  excellent  dip-candles  of  tood- 
noo,  and,  not  having  use  for  them,  have  eaten  them  with  the  same  good  relish  as 
though  the  tallow  was  not  made  into  candles. 

The  water-supply  at  Fort  Hope  was  obtained  from  North  Pole 
liiver,  through  a  hole  chiseled  in  the  ice  about  six  inches  in  diameter. 
Fi-om  the  surface  of  the  ice  to  the  water  was  three  feet.  When  snow 
tilled  this  hole,  new  ice  formed  daily  to  the  depth  of  three  inches;  at 
other  times,  six  inches  of  ice  were  removed  before  water  could  be 
nbtaini.Ml.  On  one  occasion,  when  the  temperature  had  fallen  20°, 
ll;ill  was  surprised  to  find  but  half  an  inch  of  ice  under  the  snow. 
Oil  tlif  >aiiit'  day  tiic  heather-fuel  was  with  difficulty  ignited,  although 
the  circumstances  were  the  same  as  at  other  times;  he  did  not  under- 


January,  1866.]     Httll  ttfid  Ebierhing  Preparhifi   Winter  Garments.        213 

stand  either  of  these  phenomena.  His  Innuit  fricnids  ('oiiijd.iiiu'd  tliat 
in  times  of  severe  cold  their  fire-lamps  were  very  dull. 

According  to  an  early-formed  purpose,   he  and    Kbierbing  li;id 
begun  in  November  to  prepare  enough  deer-skins  for  their  riill  w  inter 

raiment.  This  work  comprised  the  different  operations  of  dr}ing, 
scraping,  re-drying,  and  ro-scraping  described  in  ('haptcr  W .  Too- 
koo-li-too,  as  a  young  mother,  could  not  work  on  these.  Ar-nioa  and 
his  wife  had  already  prepared  their  furs.  Hall  found  himself  a  green 
hand  in  even  the  first  of  these  operations,  which  gave  him  four  times 
the  work  of  an  Innuit.  It  took  two  skins  to  make  him  a  single  koo- 
lee-tang,  or  native  coat  or  frock.  For  a  double  one  for  winter  use  four 
were  used. 

To  get  sufficient  warmth  to  dry  the  skins,  they  were  hung  around 
the  " Conjurer,"  or  small  cook-stove,  in  the  "snow  ^     ^ 

kitchen";  and,  as  the  heather  could  not  be  spared  for     ^J'■^.  -'^   ^'| 
the  drying  only,    a  quantity  of  coffee  was  browned 
at  the  same  time.     Ebierbing  was  able    to   use    his 
needle  so  deftl}^  that  he  made  himself  a  pair  of  mit-      Oi^j^^' 
tens  of  the  skin  from  two  deer-legs.  dkku-skin  glovks. 

Hall's  clothing  was  now  almost  exclusively  of  furs.  By  the  mid- 
dle of  December  he  had  doffed  his  undershirt,  and  in  February,  his 
drawers;  and  for  the  rest  of  the  season  he  dressed  wholly  like  his 
Innuit  companions.  His  experience  as  to  the  influence  of  imagina- 
tion upon  his  sensibility  to  cold  is  noted  in  the  fact  that,  on  several 
occasions,  when  the  Eskimos  repeatedly  expressed  their  surprise  that 
he  did  not  protect  himself  while  making  his  observations  outside  of 
his  if/loo,  he  seemed  unconscious  of  the  increased  cold ;  he  had  been 


214  Bemoval  to  Now-yarv.  (jonuary,  isee. 

reoarding  liis  tlieiinoineter  only,  which,  because  of  an  air-bubble  in 
the  tube,  did  not  indicate  the  true  lower  temperature  of  'iC^. 

Having  always  taken  great  care  of  his  Arctic  library,  even  in  his 
removals  from  place  to  place,  he  again  devoted  his  spare  hours  to 
study.  Finding  his  books,  in  the  early  part  of  the  season,  in  great 
danger  of  being  injured  by  the  dampness,  he  attempted  by  himself  to 
build  for  them  a  new  igJoo ;  but,  while  cutting  the  blocks  a  short  dis- 
tance off,  Ar-mou  quickly  cut  out  others  from  the  spot  on  which  the 
ifjJoo  was  to  be  built,  and  surprised  him  on  his  return  by  presenting 
him  with  a  completed  dome.  Not  long  after.  Hall  succeeded  in  build- 
ing a  cook-igloo,  when  Ar-mou  and  Ebierbing,  skilled  as  they  were  in 
such  work,  showed  their  surprise  that  a  koh-lu-na  had  built  it  so  well; 
saying  that  they  would  never  feel  alarmed  about  him  if  caught  out 
alone  in  the  storms,  for  he  could  easily  protect  himself. 

The  removal  to  Now-yarn  had  taken  place  on  the  1st  of  Decem- 
licr,  when  Hall  received  a  visit  from  Nu-her-zhoo,  Ou-e-la,  and  his  half- 
Ijiotlier,  Oong-oo-cJwo,  from  their  settlement  at  that  place,  about  sixteen 
miles  to  the  eastward.  He  was  busy  at  his  skin-dressing  when  Ou-e-la 
suddenly  appeared,  pushing  in  before  him  into  the  igloo  a  present  of 
wlude-blubber  and  muk-tiik.  The  approach  of  the  party  had  not  been 
noticed  because  of  the  thickness  of  the  weather.  Cordial  srreetinors 
were  iollowed  by  feasting  through  the  evening,  and  after  the  igloo  was 
sealed,  a  lengthy  conference  was  held,  as  the  result  of  which  it  was 
dctcniiineil  iliat  Hall,  with  Ebierbing,  Too-koo-li-too,  and  Ar-mou  and 
lii>  laiiiily,  should  spend  the  rest  of  the  winter  at  Now-yarn. 

TIm-  laiLK  t  i^art  of  the  stores  being  deposited  amid  the  rocks,  and 
Hall  lia\iii;^  made  two  trips  to  Rae's  oven  in  which  he  now  stored  his 
inediciiie-chests  and  smaller  articles,  the  move  was  begun  under  bright 


January.  1866.1  Death  of  Ar-too-a.  215 

moonlight,  at  3  a.  m.  of  the  5th.  Twenty  dogs  drew  out  of  the  igloos 
very  heavy  loads  of  venison  from  the  unconsumed  stores.  The  larger 
part,  however,  was  re-cached,  while  a  number  of  fine  deer-skins  were 
necessarily  abandoned.  The  two  women,  with  their  babes  on  their 
backs,  led  the  way,  a  seat  on  top  of  one  of  the  sleds  being  soon  found 
for  Too-koo-li-too,  who  had  been  sick.  ITall  and  Ou-e-la  walked  by 
the  first  sled,  Kbierbing  and  Nii-ker-zlioo  by  the  second,  and  Ar-mou 
and  Oong-oo-choo  by  the  third.  But  the  loads  were  too  heavy  for  them 
to  finish  the  rougli  journey  to  Now-yarn  before  night ;  the  pile  from 
one  sled,  therefore,  was  cached,  and  the  sled  put  up  on  end,  and  wal- 
rus-lines hung  from  its  peak  to  swing  in  the  wind  and  frighten  the  bear 
and  the  wolf  from  the  cache.     The  journey  was  finished  at  3  p.  m. 

At  Now-yarn  the  new-comers  were  cordially  received  with  the 
usual  feast  of  venison  and  tood-noo,  and  two  new  igloos  were  quickly 
built.  Hall  found  the  widows  of  Ar-too-a  and  Sho-slie-arl-nook,  and 
their  mother  in  deep  mourning,  the  long,  coarse,  raven  hair  of  Ar- 
too-a's  widow  completely  hiding  her  face,  neck,  and  shoulders.  News 
of  the  death  of  Ar-too-a  had  been  brought  to  Hall  by  Nu-ker-zJwo  und 
Oong-oo-choo  some  weeks  before.  Ar-too-a  had  gone  out  in  liis  li-a 
(or  one-man  boat)  alone.  This  was  contrary  to  Innuit  custom,  l)ut 
he  was  known  as  a  bold,  venturesome  spirit  who  never  quailed  to 
attack  the  bear  with  a  single  spear,  or  to  hunt  the  fierce  walrus  far 
out  on  the  ice  ;  his  death  had  been  more  than  once  })redicted.  At  the 
time  it  happened,  one  of  the  Innuit  women  on  tlie  shore  heard  a  cry 
of  distress,  and  on  her  giving  the  alarm,  two  ki-as  quickly  pushed  out 
into  the  lake.  They  found  lu's  boat  and  his  implements,  except  one 
spear,  but  his  body  had  sunk.  It  was  supposed  that  while  he  was 
spearing  one  of  a  band  of  deer  crossing  the   lake,  some   huge   buck 


216 


The  Ki-as  of  Bcpuisc  Bai/. 


[Febrnary,  1866. 


proved  nglv,  and  in  the  encounter  kicked  up  his   heels,  striking  the 
boat,  which  was  at  once  upset. 

Hall  notes  the  difference  between  the  ki-as  of  this  country  and 
those  of  Greenland,  Frobisher  Bay,  and  Hudson's  Strait: 

Till-  ki-a.s  here  are  of  far  less  weight  than  those  of  (Ireeiiland — not  so  long 
or  so  wide.  Indeed,  they  are  not  more  than  25  ponnds  weight,  while  those  on  the 
west  side  of  Davis's  Strait  ofttimes  exceed  100  ponnds.  A  Greeulander,  or  any 
Innnit  anywhere  from  Hndson's  Strait  np  to  aSTorthmnberland  Inlet,  on  getting 
into  one  of  the  li-as  of  this  conntry  wonld  capsize  as  <]uickly  as  a  white  man 
in  theirs.  Ebierbing  at  first  could  do  nothing  in  them  bnt  roll  over.  Ma  an<l 
all.  To  get  properly  into  one  of  these  boats,  an  Innuit  has  to  work  and  wiggle 
his  body  a  long  time.  I  cannot  imagine  how  Ar-too-a  managed,  on  getting  cap- 
sized, to  get  his  body  ont  of  his  li-a,  so  tight  was  he  squeezed  in  Avhen  in  it. 


l;i;i'LLSK    liAV    KI-A. 

Klsewhere,  he  notes  his  surprise  on  learning  that  the  natives  com- 
plained that  he  had  kept  Ar-mou  with  him.  They  bitterly  felt  the  loss 
of  tlieir  an-gc-Jio,  and  said  that  if  Ar-mou  had  gone 
U})  with  Ar-too-a  to  the  lake  he  might  have  been 
at  liand  to  save  him.  Old  Ook-har-Ioo,  mother-like, 
held  on  to  a  hope  that  she  would  yet  look  upon 
her  son. 

The  midwinter  months,  to  the  8th  of  Feb- 
ruary, were  passed  comfortably  with  the  natives 
at  or  near  Now-yarn.  The  stock  of  provisions 
was  ample,  and  limiting-  unnecessary  as  well  as  impracticable;  the 
time  was,  therefore,  spent  mostly  within  the  if/loos,  in  the  usual 
aniiisciiicnts  and  feasting  the  character  of  which  has  already  been 
dcsniltcd.      The  nninbcr  of  souls  in  tho  village,  including  women  and 


KY-AK    UIJNAMK.NT. 


Vebruary,  ISfiO. 


Population  of  Now-yarn. 


217 


children,  was  forty-three.  This  number  Ou-e-Ja  counted  up  by  keep- 
ing open  witli  liis  finger  for  Hall  the  same  number  of  leaves  in  one 
of  his  little  volumes — the  Book  of  Psalms.  The  Eskimos,  as  is  well 
known,  can  generally  count  as  far  as  ten,  but  after  that,  they  only 
say,  am-a-su-it  or  mn-a-su-ad-lu  (many,  a  ver}'  great  many). 


DEATH    OF   AU-T()0-A. 


Almost  every  day  the  whole  population   came  together  for  the 
feasts.      At   times,    Hall   showed  his    continued    good- will    by    i^iving 


218 


Amusements. 


[February,  1866. 


special  entertainments,  at  which  he  waited  himself  on  the  younger 
children,  after  feasting-  the  adults.  Free  smoking  assisted  the  good 
humor,  when  tobacco,  as  well  as  other  articles,  including  desiccated 
vegetables,  were  drawai  from  the  stores  taken  out  with  him  from  the 
United  States.  To  leave  no  exception  from  his  invitations,  he  urged 
old  mother  Ook-har-Ioo  to  release  Too-koo-li-too  from  the  iron  custom 
which  was  working  against  her  at  the  time.  The  favor  was  granted, 
but  Too-koo-li-too,  from  superstitious  fear,  declined  to  avail  herself  of 
the  dispensation.  Her  babe,  born  September  16,  was,  in  her  judgment, 
yet  too  young. 

Amusements  necessarily  formed  a  large  part  of  the  occupations  of 
the  village.  Wrestling  and  otl^^er  gymnastic  exercises  were  not  only 
much  relished,  Init  instinctively  practiced  with  frequency,  to  maintain 
that  muscular  power  of  which  the  race  were  in  conscious  need  for 
their  success  and  personal  safety  in  the  hunt  and  in  severe  exposures. 


INNiriT   TKillT  UOI'i;.- 


Tl... 
ni>- 

nlll 


ti;iht-r<.pc  was  in  use,  stretched  witliin  the  ifjloo  by  tliongs  of  wal- 
lii<l«\  which,  with  some  skill,  were  securely  fastened  on  the  outside 
i<-  ronf.      (iaiijcs  of  clicckcrs  and  rlominoes  were  often   interrupted 


February,  I,s(i6. 


New  Year''s  Day. 


219 


by  long-  yarn-spinning,  chatting,  and  smoking.     The   dance  and  the 
masquerade  ball  were  not  infrequent. 

The  first  month  of  the  new  year  had  closed  with  a  celebration  of 
a  unique  character.  Hall  had  announced  to  them  the  opening  of  the 
year  by  passing  round  through  the  connected  snow-houses  and  shout- 
ing its  coming  with  so  loud  a  voice  and  at  such  an  hour  as  even  to 
frighten  the  people.  They  seemed  to  have  reciprocated  his  atten- 
tions with  interest.  The  whole  day  was  busily  spent  in  preparing  for 
the  masquerade  and  the  dance;  and  when  the  ball  opened,  the  most 
grotesque  costumes  imaginable  provoked  loud  and  continued  laughter 


IXNirr    HKAD-OHNAMKNT— SKAI,  TEKTH  ;    BKADS    I'ltOM    DU.    1!AK. 

from  all  the  company;  for  the  garments  had  been  hastily  patched 
up  from  all  the  second-hand  articles  of  clothing,  such  as  pants,  shirts, 
drawers,  remnants,  and  pieces  of  cloth,  cahcoes,  and  stuff  which  had 
been  picked  up  at  times  from  the  whalers;  and  these  were  put  on  by 
men,  women,  and  children,  even  the  smallest,  with  a  studied  care  to 
make  themselves  ridiculous.  The  masks  were  of  reindeer-skin.  The 
performance  came  off  in  the  triplet  igloo  of  ''Nu-ker-zlioo,  Ar-goom-oo- 
too-lik,  See-gar  &  Co.,"  where  dancing  to  a  late  hour  was  accompanied 
by  the  key-low-tik,  with  monotonous  singing,  and  a  ciieoi-ful,  tuneless 


220 


Miniafinr  Sledqes. 


[Frbrnary,  186«. 


accordeon.      Danciiio"   in    couples,    dancing   altogether,    and    dancing 
singly,  filled  up  the  hours. 


GROCND-PLAX   or   THE   FKASTINXt-IGLOO— SCALE,  ^o"  =  12". 

I.  Passage-way,  about  G  feet  high.  II.  Vestibule,  9  feet  bigh.  III.  Igloo — floor  to  doruc,  9  feet 
:?  inches;  height  of  bed-platfonn,  2  feet  9  inches.  IV.  Igloo — floor  to  dome,  9  feet  (5  inches; 
height  of  bed-i)hitform,  3  feet.  V.  Igloo — floor  to  dome,  9  feet  5  inches;  height  of  bed- 
platfonu,  2  feet  7  inches.     13.  Bed-platfonn;  F.  Floor;  L.  Lamp. 

Al  the  close  of  other  entertainments  when  the  storm  did  not  shut 
tliL'iii  ill-doors  as  on  the  occasion  of  Hall's  feasting  them  on  Christmas 
iii^rht,  tlie  Ijoys  harnessed  up  a  team  of  little  dogs  and  gave  the 
y«iuii^;c.st  (liildren  a  good  sledge-ride  on  the  ice  of  Repulse  Bay.  For 
sucli  lides,  ininiatiire  teams  of  puppies  but  two  months  old  were  some- 
times (hivcii  with  iniicli  skill  In' tlie  young  children ;  the  puppies  being 
liJiriHs.scd  hy  tlu-  line  only,  and  the  young  drivers  using  the  long  whip 


February,  1866.]  Trip  to  Oo-(/la-ri-i/our  Island.  221 

just  as  the  men  do.  Tlieir  sleds  are  about  two  feet  in  length.  The 
village,  outside  the  igloos,  was  illuminated  with  '^nanny-roons,^^  or  lan- 
terns, some  of  ice,  others  of  snow.  Hall  says,  about  these:  "Really 
there  is  no  occasion  for  any  one  to  bring  glass  windows  or  glassware 
into  this  country,  for  King  Cold  gives  us  the  material  during  nine 
months  of  the  year.  These  lanterns  are  fine  specimens  of  the  handi- 
work of  the  race." 

On  the  3d  of  February,  Hall  and  Nu-ker-zhoo  made  a  very  rough 
journey  back  to  Oo-gla-ri-your  Island,  to  recover  a  favorite  artificial 
horizon,  first  used  on  the  expedition  of  1860  to  1862.  The  instrument 
was  readily  found  by  Nu-ker-zhoo  on  the  surface  of  the  snow,  but  in  a 
damaged  state;  the  woodwork  eaten  by  foxes  and  the  mercury  wholly 
lost.  The  two  were  back  at  Now-yarn  at  the  close  of  the  second  day, 
having  passed  one  night  in  an  igloo  on  the  ice.  On  this  trip  of  sixty 
miles  they  were  more  than  once  jerked  from  the  flying  sledge  "like 
stones  from  a  sling."     On  the  island  a  native  sledge  was  found,  made 


ESKIMO   SLEDGE. 


entirely  of  the  jaw-bone  of  a  whale.     It  was  very  heavy.     The  run- 
ners were  12  feet  long,  10  inches  deep,  and  IJ  inches  thick,  and  were 


222 


Now-yarn  Harbor  and  the  Cliff. 


[Fc'bruary,  1866. 


shod  with  the  same  bone;  the  cross-bars  measured  20  inches.  Ou-e-la 
said  that  it  belonged  to  the  father  of  the  I-vit-chuck  already  named. 
Hall  now  spent  several  days  in  the  busy  work  of  surveying  Now- 
varn  harbor  and  its  vicinity,  making  the  sketch  of  which  the  cut 
below  is  a  fac-simile. 


I^akclet 


A  cliff  on  the  border  of  a  neighboring  inlet  much  interested  him 
b}  the  Innuit  tradition  with  which  it  was  connected.  Ou-e-la^s  story 
was  that,  years  before,  two  little  girls  while  playing  about  this  cliff, 
with  infants  in  hoods  on  their  backs,  had  gone  into  an  opening  between 
the  rocks,  which  closed  upon  them  before  escape  was  possible.  All 
attempts  for  rescue  were  unsuccessful,  and  the  poor  children,  to  whom 
f(^r  a  time  bread  and  water  were  passed,  perished  in  the  cliff. 

On  the  8th,  Hall  found  himself  back  at  his  tenting-ground  at  the 
twenty-sixth  encampment,  near  Dr.  Rae's  "Forlorn  Hope" — Fort  Hope. 


February,  1866. 


Visit  to  Fort  Hope. 


223 


"^-a-^?^-n.,., 


THE   KENT   CLIFF. 


On  setting-  out  in  the  morning,  all  Now-yarn  had  turned  out  to  bid  him 
"  ter-hou-ee-tie'^ — a  hearty  good-bye.  He  left  the  kindly  advice  with 
Ou-e-  la  to  be  sure  to  send  for  him  if  any  of  the  people  were  sick. 

With  his  own  Eskimos,  and  Jr- 
mou  and  Mam-mark,  he  made  the  jour- 
ney by  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
the  sledges  being  heavily  loaded,  and 
he  himself  preferring  to  pace  the  whole 
distance,  carefully  counting  every 
fourth  step.  As  soon  after  their  ar- 
rival as  new  igloos  were  built,  refresh- 
ments were  served  up,  including  a  lit- 
tle brandy  of  such  proof  that  it 
remained  unfrozen  at  50^  below  zero.  The  fair  sex  of  the  company 
eschewed  the  favorite  muk-tuk,  the  brandy,  and  the  smoking.  Mam- 
mark  having  recently  lost  her  wing-er  (husband),  and  Too-koo-li-too's 
child  being  less  than  a  year  old.  When  Hall  took  his  brandy,  even 
after  breathing  for  some  time  upon  the  flask,  he  was  burned  from 
mouth  to  stomach  as  by  a  stream  of  fire-coals  ; — impressing  him  ever 
after  with  the  necessity  of  being  as  wise  in  first  taking  the  frost  out 
of  the  liquid  as  he  was  in  taking  it  out  of  the  nose  of  the  flask. 

The  next  day,  having  occasion  to  visit  Fort  Hope,  he  was  struck 
with  its  exposed  position,  and  his  notes  express  an  admiration  of  Dr. 
Rae's  ability  as  the  leader  of  an  expedition,  for  having  wintered  liis 
party  of  1846  within  its  gloomy  mud  and  stone  walls  without  the 
loss  of  a  man.  Mam-mark  and  others  now  spoke  of  their  friends  hav- 
ing seen  Dr.  Rae  at  Pelly  Bay,  as  well  as  at  Fort  Hope.  They  knew 
Oo-lig-huck,  Rae's  guide,  under  the   name  Mar-ko,  and  among  other 


224  Difficulties  ivith  the  Innuits.  [March,  isee. 

things  which  they  related  of  this  man,  was  the  story  that  he  became 
much  ahirmed  by  the  accounts  from  the  IwilHk  people  of  the  fierce 
and  deceitful  Neitchille  tribe,  and  for  this  reason  he  had  tried  to 
desert  Rae,  but  without  success. 

During  the  rest  of  the  month  of  February  and  throughout  March, 
Hall  was  quite  willing  to  have  for  his  companions  the  few  only  who 
had  returned  with  him  from  Now-yarn.  He  needed  rest  from  the  fre- 
quency of  visitations  to  his  igtoo,  and  quiet  for  maturing  his  plans  for 
the  spring  sledge  journey  ;  but  especially,  relief  from  the  misunder- 
standings and  alienations  occurring  not  infrequently  at  the  village.  It 
is  easy  to  see  that  any  estrangement  from  those  on  whom  he  as  the 
only  white  man  was  dependent,  and  at  times  helplessly  so,  must  have 
caused  him  much  disquiet,  beyond  even  the  connection  of  this  with 
the  success  of  his  plans.  Some  personal  misunderstandings  with 
Ou-e-la  (the  chief)  and  with  Ar-mou,  and  others,  had  more  than  once 
occurred ;  and  at  one  time  he  seems  to  have  had  good  reason  to 
believe  that  his  life  was  in  danger.  But  his  control  over  the  people 
continued  to  be  strangely  successful,  and  it  so  remained  up  to  the 
close  of  the  expedition. 

The  chief  means  of  this  success  is  readily  to  be  inferred  from  the 
course  of  the  narrative  up  to  this  date.  From  the  time  of  his  first 
meeting  with  the  Innuits  he  had  reciprocated  the  cordiality  of  their 
simple  offerings,  and  had  subjected  himself  to  a  conformity  with  their 
.strange  customs;  he  had  ministered  to  their  necessities  in  sickness, 
su})pl  vinfT  both  food  and  fuel ;  and  had  held  out  to  them  just  expecta- 
tions of  fiiithcM-  assistance  from  the  whalers,  and  from  his  friends  in  the 
United  States.  His  chief  dependence  for  the  needed  control  over  them 
wa,s  in  his  su|)ply  of  tobacco,  often  freely  given  as  a  present,  but  as  a 


SKKTi'lI  OF  rOAST  LINES 

riloM  IT.  CHrUCllILL 
TO  LANCASTKll  SOUND 

Jiv  Ar-inou  in  1H6<^). 


march,  1866.]  Control  of  fJic  Innuits.  22 f) 

rule,  dealt  out  as  rations  in  exchange  for  provisions.  AVhen  for  two 
days  he  held  out  in  a  refusal  to  ser\t'  out  this  to  Ar-mou  (the  Wolf),  a 
personal  contest  was  nearly  brought  on.  "  Tlie  savage,"  after  several 
angry  conferences  Avith  his  fellows,  again  and  again  demanded  the 
coveted  weed;  but  even  when  he  approached  Hall  to  lay  hold  on  Iiim, 
he  received  the  firm  answer,  '■'■Ar-mou  keeps  his  muk-tuk,  Hall  keeps 
his  tobacco."  This  self-control  seems  to  have  had  as  much  to  do  with 
closing  the  affair  amicably,  as  any  assistance  that  Ebierbing  and  Too- 
koo-li-too  could  render. 

Other  alienations  had  now  shown  tliemselves  by  the  separa- 
tion from  him  of  the  rest  of  the  Innuits,  and  by  their  withhold- 
ing from  him  their  old  gifts  and  even  some  of  liis  own  supplies, 
which  might  have  been  brought  when  he  was  known  to  be  in  need, 
from  the  whale  cached  in  August ;  to  say  nothing  of  their  forgetful- 
ness  to  keep  for  him  his  accustomed  place  at  the  feasts.  It  is  cer- 
tainly creditable  to  Hall  that  he  could  exercise  such  self-control,  and 
make  full  allowance  for  the  circumstances  in  which  he  was  placed,  and 
in  which  he  steadfastly  purposed  to  abide.  Some  things  he  knew  tliat 
he  must  probably  misunderstand.  His  own  determined  purpose  he 
could  not.  In  despite  of  these  adverse  circumstances,  lie  had  not  been 
without  renewed  encouragements.  The  leading  men  of  the  tribe  had 
come  and  talked  with  him  about  his  journey  before  he  went  over  to 
Now-yarn,  and  when  good  humor  prevailed  there,  had  repeatedly 
entered  into  his  plans,  and  committed  themselves  and  their  people  to 
his  assistance.  Ar-mou  completed  for  him  a  chart  of  the  waters 
and  lands  he  had  voyaged  and  traveled  over  in  his  lifetime.  "It 
embraced  a  section  of  country  from  Pond's  Bay  (say  in  lat.  73°  N., 
long.  76°  W.)  to  Fort  Churchill  (lat.  58°  44'  N.,  long.  94°  14'  W.) ; 
the  distance  between  the  two  places  in  a  direct  line  being  1IG6  nauti- 
S.  Ex.  27 ir> 


226  Beady  to  Move.  [iwarch,  isee. 

cal  miles  (by  middle  latitude  sailing,  9.65.8  ;  by  Mercator,  959.8)." 
The  coast  which  this  native  delineated,  and  with  most  of  which  he 
was  well  acquainted,  exceeded  six  times  this  distance.  With  all  the 
indentations  of  the  coast  from  Ig-loo-lik  to  Eepulse  Bay,  and  thence 
to  Fort  Churchill,  he  still  was  familiar,  except  the  further  or  most 
westerly  extent  of  Chestei-field  Inlet.  He  had  been  on  Southampton 
Island  twice  ;  the  first  time  drifting  there  on  the  ice  while  walrusing  in 
the  winter.  From  his  map  and  from  others  drawn  by  natives,  par- 
ticularly from  the  sketch  of  Lyon's  Inlet,  to  be  found  in  a  later  part  of 
this  Narrative,  Hall  received  valuable  assistance  on  his  subsequent 
journeys. 

The  occupations  of  the  quiet  stay  at  Fort  Hope  had  included  the 
selecting  and  preparing  the  necessary  provisions  and  stores,  and  putting 
them  up  in  convenient  packages  encased  in  strong  bags  of  India-rubber 
cloth ;  such  as  could  not  be  carried  awa)^  being  either  cached  or  cov- 
ered over  in  the  Sylvia,  which  was  secured  from  exposure.  For  Hall's 
personal  comfort,  Mam-marh  made  him  a  pair  of  Jcod-lins,  or  breeches, 
from  the  Siberian  squirrel-furs  presented  to  him  the  preceding  season 
by  his  friend  Captain  Kilmer. 

On  the  30th  of  March,  I-vi-tuk  came  merrily  down  to  Fort  Hope, 
with  all  the  dogs  belonging  to  See-gar  and  Ar-goo-moo-too-Uk^  to  assist 
Hall  on  his  proposed  journey  north.  These  teams,  with  some  dogs 
which  had  been  left  with  him  by  his  friend  Ou-e-la,  were  the  best  prac- 
tical assurances  of  good  feeling  renewed  with  his  old  friends.  Daring 
the  winter  he  had  almost  despaired  of  securing  a  team,  and  his  own 
stock  consisted  of  but  "  two  female  dogs,  equal  to  one  good  dog,  and 
two  puppies,  equal  to  a  quarter  of  a  good  dog."  He  had  been  unable 
to  obtain  others  at  a  lower  price  than  a  double-barreled  gun  for  each. 


march,  1866.1  Reuchj  foY  King   William^ s  Land.  227 

I-vi-tiiJc's  coming  enabled  him  to  anticipate  the  day  for  the  move 
toward  Neitchille.  Now-yarn  had  been  abandoned  by  the  scattering 
of  the  people  to  hunt  and  fish ;  Ou-e-la,  for  this  object,  was  already 
upon  the  lakes. 

Hall  was  ready  to  leave  all  the  people  in  full  good  humor.  He 
presented  them  with  venison,  and  gave  to  the  men  letters  to  the 
expected  whalers,  in  which  he  asked  that  such  reasonable  requests  as 
might  be  made  for  ammunition  and  provisions  should  be  granted ; 
the  compensation  for  these  he  expected  would  be  made  to  the  whalers 
by  his  two  chief  friends  in  the  United  States. 

He  had  now  a  goodly  party  ready  for  the  forward  move,  having 
only  the  regret  that  the  women  and  children  must  accompany  them. 
It  may  be  questioned,  however,  whether  his  efforts  to  prevent  this  had 
been  wise ;  nor  did  the  sequel  show  that  the  women  were  really  an 
incumbrance. 


The  METEOROLOGICAL  NOTES  kept  in  the  winter  quarters 
are  of  interest.  The  changing  temperatures  experienced  during  this 
second  winter  of  seven  months  will  be  appreciated  by  the  following 
quotations  from  some  specific  dates  within  that  period : 

The  first  snow  of  the  season  fell  September  9 ;  an  inch  only  in  depth ;  it 
assisted  the  hunters  in  tracking  deer.  Ice  formed  on  the  bay  and  river  for  the 
first  time  on  the  12th  of  the  mouth  following.  The  canvas  tents  becoming  un- 
comfortable, Icom-mon/fs  protected  the  party  until  they  found  enough  snow  on  the 
29th  to  build  their  igloos,  and  were  driven  into  them  by  the  sudden  occurrence 
of  severe  storms. 

The  snow-drift  of  this  date  prompted  Hall  to  say : 
I  defy  any  man  to  make  true  observations  of  the  number  of  inches  of  snow 
that  falls  on  an  average  during  the  winter  in  the  Arctic  Eegions.     Drift  and 


228  Meteorological  Notes  Duruff/  the   Winter. 

falling-  suow  are  all  iiiterniiuj;lc'd,  and  both  are  swept  aloug  over  the  earth  at  a 
speed  that,  sometimes  I  tliiuk,  should  take  them  round  the  great  globe  in  forty 
minutes.  Ofttimes  the  shrewdest  natives  cannot  tell  whether  it  is  simply  drift 
riving-  or  both  falling  snow  and  drift. 

The  weather  at  times  during  November  was  so  warm  that  the 
roofs  of  the  igloos  needed  rebuilding.  Repeated  appHcations  of  new 
blocks  were  made  to  the  places  from  which  the  melted  snow  was 
dripping. 

The  22d  of  January,  1866,  was  a  hurricane  day.  Within  the  igloos 
1  luried  deep  under  the  drift,  the  howling  of  the  storm  was  heard  through- 
out tlie  night.  The  women,  rising  first  as  usual,  cleared  the  passage- 
way, and  came  back  from  its  mouth  to  tell  of  the  tempest.  At  nine 
o'clock  Hall  attempted  to  go  outside  to  make  his  observations,  but  as 
he  stepped  beyond  the  wind-proof  wall  of  snow-blocks  which  shielded 
the  entrance-way  to  the  tunnel,  he  was  instantly  knocked  heels  over 
head.  On  raising  his  head,  for  one  instant  he  saw  the  snow  flying;  the 
next,  he  was  blinded;  but  by  little  and  little  he  worked  himself,  directly 
in  the  eye  of  the  hurricane,  till  he  struck  on  what  he  knew  to  be  one 
r>f  tlie  snow -walls  of  the  tunnel.  He  says  that  "the  whole  world 
around  seemed  one  mighty  snow-drift,  and  if  he  had  any  conscious- 
ness at  all.  it  was  that  he  felt  as  though  he  were  in  chaos.  Heaven 
had  his  lirst  thanks,  and  the  Inniiit  who  built  that  snow-wall  his 
second." 

On  the  loth  of  February  a  hurricane  prevailed  all  day,  charged 
Mith  a  tciiijx'raturc  of  —  40".  At  one  time,  one  of  the  dogs  was  found 
entin-K  biiiicd  under  the  drift,  his  line  being  too  short  to  let  him  keep 
upon  the  suit'acc.  When  released  he  was  a  happy  dog ;  even  before 
eating,  ''  i>risk  as  a  cricket." 


Anroias.  229 

Auroras  were  of  frequent  occurrence  tliroug-hout  the  winter,  except 

during-  the  montli  of  Januar3^     ]\Iore  than  once,  on  witnessing  them, 

Hall  finds  the  question  arising  in  his  mind — 

AMiy  is  it  that  the  aurora  is  almost  always  seen  in  the  southern  heavens?* 
Why  do  we  not  see  the  same  north  of  us  ?  I  have  seen  the  aurora  at  AYager 
Bay,  at  Noo-wook,  at  Depot  Island,  and  from  various  places  about  Jiepulse  Bay, 
and  almost  uniformly  the  phenomena  is  seen  southerly  of  the  jtoiiit  wherever  I 
happened  to  be.  The  same  was  true  in  my  previous  voyage  (18()()-()2) — that  the 
aurora  was  seen  south.  In  this  conne(;tion  I  Avould  state  tluit  from  all  I  have 
been  able  to  learn  in  the  many  close  observations  I  have  made;  during  their  dis- 
plays, the  aurora  is  generally  not  far  distant — ofttimes  within  a  few  hundred  feet — 
and  continues  within  a  stone's-throw  of  one's  head.  If  an  army  of  men  were 
close  together  in  line,  and  extended  from  here  to  York  Factory,  I  am  sure  each 
man  would  see  the  auroral  displays  all  south  of  him ;  and  yet  the  most  distant 
displays  would  not  exceed  ten  or  fifteen  miles,  while  the  most  would  be  within  a 
half  to  three  miles  of  him. 

On  November  7  the  rays  of  an  aurora  shot  horizontally  to  the 
eastward,  in  the  direction  of  the  magnetic  meridian.  At  7  p.  m.  of  the 
lOth,  a  thin  auroral  veil  covered  the  sky,  lasting  twenty  minutes. 

On  the   6th   of  February,  the  passage-way  of  Hali's   ir/Ioo  was 

flooded  with  the  light  of  an  aurora.     On  going  out,  he  saw — 

A  long  belt,  extending  far  east-southeast  and  far  west-northM'est,  the  center 

of  it  a  trifle  south,  but  apparently  withm  a  pistol-shot.     The  rays  were  all  vertical, 

and  dancing  right  merrily.    This  whole  belt  was  remarkably  low  down — that  is, 

apparently  not  more  than  50  or  75  feet  from  the  earth — and  along  the  base  of  it, 

from  end  to  end,  was  one  continuous  stream  of  prismatic  fires,  which,  with  tlie 

golden  rays  of  light  jetting  upward  and  racing  backward  and  forward — some 

dancing  merrily  one  way,  while  others  did  the  same  from  the  opposite  <lirection — 

made  one  of  the  most  gorgeous,  sou  I -inspiring  displays  I  ever  witnessed.     Tlic 

Innuits,  nearly  the  whole  of  whom  witnessed  the  grand  sight,  kept  up,  as  they 

always  do  on  such  occasions,  their  charming  nuisic — that  is,  whistling.    Tlie  dis- 

plaj^  lasted  but  a  few  minutes. 

*  Between  the  parallel  of  50  degrees  uortli  and  that  of  62  degrees  north,  auroras  dui-ing  the 
■winter  are  seen  ahnost  every  night.  They  appear  high  in  the  heavens,  and  as  often  to  the  south 
as  to  tlie  north.    In  regions /«*•//((■?•  north  they  are  seldom  seen  except  in  the  south.    Loomis,  p.  li^. 


•J3<t 


A  iiroras. 


The  tbllowiiig  night  something  of  a  Hke  display  was  witnessed. 
A  sinole  streak  of  aurora  shot  up  from  the  south,  and  in  a  few 
moments  the  whole  horizon  was  alive  with  the  dancing  fires  of  the 


.M   I;(H:.\    SKKTCIIKI)    HY    irAI.L. 

iini-Tli.  On  Tlie  l!)th  then-  w;is  m  dlsphiy  of  aurora,  upon  which  the 
wiii.l  liad  no  apparent  cficct,  altliough  a  gale  M^as  blowing. 

<  >ii  til.-  liitli  (if  Marcli — 

A  \v»»ii(lions  (lisi»la.v  strctclicd  across  the  soutljeni  heavens  from  east-sontli- 
east  K.  wrst  soulliwcst.     Tlie  eastciii   lialf  was  ia  tlie  form  of  !i)i  arch  with  verti- 


Auroras.  231 

(•al  rays,  while  the  western  half  was  convolved  in  such  vast  glowing  circles  that 
nearly  a  quarter  of  the  heavens  seemed  on  fire.  The  eastern  half  consisted  of 
bosses  or  birch  broomheads,  springing  into  life  and  dancing  merrily  to  and  fro 
along  the  vertex  of  the  highest  rays  forming  the  arch;  to  each  broomhead  was  a 
com])lete  nucleus,  well  defined,  about  which  the  rays,  inclined  about  45°  to  the 
east,  played  most  fantastically.  One  was  quite  alone  in  its  glory,  for  not  only  had 
it  the  embellishments  of  its  sister  broomheads,  but  golden  hair  radiated  from  its 
head  in  all  directions. 

[Willi  Hall's  notes  it  may  be  interesting  to  compare  those  made 
by  Lieutenant  Weyprecht,  of  the  Austrian  ship  TegetthofF,  while  wit- 
nessing the  auroras  of  the  Eastern  Hemisphere.] 

There  in  the  south,  low  on  the  horizon,  stands  a  faint  arch  of  light.  It  looks 
as  if  it  were  the  upper  limit  of  a  dark  segment  of  a  circle;  but  the  stars  which 
shine  through  it  in  undiminished  brilliancy,  convince  us  that  the  darkness  of  the 
segment  is  a  delusion  produced  by  contrast.  Gradually  the  arch  of  light  grows 
in  intensity  and  rises  to  the  zenith.  It  is  perfectly  regular;  its  two  ends  almost 
touch  the  horizon  and  advance  to  the  east  and  west  in  proportion  as  the  arch 
rises.  ISTo  beams  are  to  be  discovered  in  it,  but  the  whole  consists  of  an  almost 
uniform  light  of  a  delicious  tender  color.  It  is  transparent  white,  with  a  shade 
of  light  green  not  unlike  the  pale  green  of  a  young  plant  which  germinates  in 
the  dark.  The  light  of  the  moon  appears  yellow,  contrasted  with  this  tender 
color  so  pleasing  to  the  eye,  and  so  indescribable  in  words,  a  color  which  nature 
appears  to  have  given  only  to  the  Polar  regions  by  way  of  compensation.  The 
arch  is  broad,  thrice  the  breadth,  perhaps,  of  the  rainbow,  and  its  distinctly 
marked  edges,  are  strongly  defined  on  the  profoifnd  darkness  of  the  Arctic 
heavens.  The  stars  shine  through  it  with  undiminished  brilliancy.  The  arch 
mounts  higher  and  higher.  An  air  of  repose  seems  spread  over  the  whole  phe- 
nomenon; here  and  there  only  a  wave  of  light  rolls  slowly  from  one  side  to  the 
other.  It  begins  to  grow  clear  over  the  ice;  some  of  its  groups  are  discernible. 
The  arch  is  still  distant  from  the  zenith;  a  second  detaches  itself  from  the  dark 
segment,  and  this  is  gradually  succeeded  by  others.  All  now  rise  toward  the 
zenith  ;  tlie  first  passes  beyond  it,  then  sinks  slowly  toward  the  northern  horizon, 
and  as  it  sinks,  loses  its  intensity.  Arches  of  light  are  now  stretched  over  the 
whole  heavens ;  seven  are  apparent  at  the  same  time  on  the  sky,  though  of  infe- 
rior intensity.  The  lower  they  sink  toward  the  north,  the  paler  they  grow,  till 
at  last  they  utterly  fade  away.    Often  they  all  return  over  the  zenith,  and  become 


2ci2  Auroras  uf  fhi'  Eastern  Hemisphere. 

extinct  just  as  tlR'V  came.  *  *  *  But,  again,  another  form.  Bands 
of  every  i)0ssible  form  and  intensity  have  been  driving  over  the  heavens.  It  is 
now  8  o'clock  at  night,  the  hour  of  the  greatest  intensity  of  the  northern  lights. 
For  a  moment  some  bundles  of  rays  only  are  to  be  seen  in  the  sky.  In  the  south 
a  taint,  scarcely-observable  band  lies  close  to  the  horizon.  All  at  once  it  rises 
rapidly  and  spreads  east  and  vrest.  The  waves  of  light  begin  to  dart  and  shoot; 
some  rays  mount  toward  the  zenith.  For  a  short  time  it  remains  stationary,  then 
suddenly  springs  to  life.  The  Avaves  of  light  drive  violently  from  east  to  west; 
the  edges  assume  a  deep  red  and  green  color,  and  dance  up  and  down.  The  rays, 
shoot  up  more  rapidly;  they  become  shorter;  all  rise  together  and  approach 
nearer  and  nearer  to  the  magnetic  pole.  It  looks  as  if  there  were  a  race  among 
ill*'  rays,  and  that  each  aspired  to  reach  the  pole  first.  And  now  the  point  is 
reached,  and  They  shoot  out  on  every  side,  to  the  north  and  the  south,  to  the 
east  and  the  west.  Do  the  rays  shoot  from  above  downward  or  from  below 
upward  f  "\Mio  can  distinguish  ?  From  the  center  issues  a  sea  of  flames ;  is  that 
sea  red,  white,  or  green!  Who  can  say — it  is  all  three  colors  at  the  same 
monu'iit !  The  rays  reach  almost  to  the  horizon;  the  whole  sky  is  in  flames. 
I>ature  displays  before  us  such  an  exhibition  of  fire- works  as  transcends  the 
powers  of  imagination  to  conceive.  Involuntarily  we  listen :  such  a  spectacle  we 
think  iiuist  be  accompanied  with  sound.  But  unbroken  stillness  prevails;  not 
the  least  sound  strikes  on  the  ear.  Once  more  it  becomes  clear  over  the  ice,  and 
the  wliole  phenomenon  has  disaj^peared  with  the  same  inconceivable  rapidity 
with  which  it  came,  and  gloomy  night  has  again  stretched  her  dark  veil  over 
everything.  This  was  the  aurora  of  the  coming  storm — the  aurora  in  its  fullest 
siilend(»r.  Xo  pencil  can  draw  it,  no  colors  can  i)aint  it,  and  no  words  can  describe 
it  in  all  its  magnificence.  And  here  below  stand  we  poor  men  and  speak  of 
knowledge  and  progress,  and  j)ride  ourselves  on  the  understanding  with  which 
we  extort  from  Nature  her  mysteries.  We  stand  and  gaze  on  the  mystery  which 
Nature  has  written  for  us  in  llaming  letters  ou  the  dark  vault  of  night,  and  ulti- 
mately we  can  only  wonder  and  confess  that,  in  truth  we  know  nothing  of  it.  He 
\\  ho  lias  seen  its  phenomenon  in  its  full  splendor,  when  in  the  vast  silence  the 
entire  vault  of  heaven  seems  to  consume  in  flames  of  intense  colors,  when  streams 
of  Wvi-.  Iiiiious  and  liantic  in  wild  eliase  all  ai'ound,  rush  u])ward  to  the  zenith, 
lie  who  lias  observed  the  excitement  which  in  such  moments  manifests  itself  in 
the  elements  (tf  'I'errestrial  magnetism — to  him  it  must  become  a  life  task  to  aid 
in  i(inu\iiiL:  the  thick  \cil  which  shrouds  this  mysterious  exhibition  of  Natiu'e's 
))o\ser.     Aitlmiii;|i  in  most   intimate  coinieet ion  w  itli   the  disturbances  of  Terres- 


Auroras  in  the  Easiern  Ilenmphere.  233 

trial  magiietisiii  and  utterly  inseparable  from  it,  still  it  is  out  of  our  power  to 
discern  the  links  which  chain  them  together.  Theory  after  tlieory  has  been  i)ro- 
X)Osed,  but  none  is  adequate;  the  obscurity  which  lowers  over  this  indescribable 
phenomenon  is  as  intense  to-day  as  a  hundred  years  ago.  ("New  Lauds  within 
the  Arctic  Circle.") 


HAPTEF^ 


FIRST    ADVANCE     TOWARD    KING    WILLIAM'S    LAND- 
SLEDGE  JOURNEY  TO  COLVILE  BAY  AND  RETURN. 

MARCH  31  TO  MAY  25,  115B6. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 


Start  fok  King  William's  Lani>  March  :U— Hall's  companions— His  kxposurk — Walks  be- 
hind THE  sledges — Gale-bound — Innuit  legends  of  the  wolf  and  the  bear — An- 

KOO-TING   FOR  TOO-KOO-LI-TOO'S   SICK   INFANT — UNCERTAINTY   OF  THE  (a;iDES — Dr.  Kae'S 

chart  followed — Letters  sent  back  to  the  whalers — Tardiness  of  the  natives — 
Eenewed  an-koo-ting  for  the  child — Fi;rther  delays — Icing  of  the  sleds  re- 
newed— The  Sea  of  Ak-koo-lee  reached  on  the  twenty-eighth  day  of  a  .tourney, 

once  made  BY'  EaE  IN  FIVE  DAYS — MEETING  WITH  NATIVES  FROM  PeLLY  BaY — THEIR  AC- 
COUNTS OF  Franklin's  ships— Eelics  obtained  from  them— Intimidation  of  Hall's 

MEN  BY  THESE  NATIVES — HaLL  COMPELLED  TO  RETURN  FROM   COLVILE    BaY — LEAVES  A 

DEPOSIT  AT  Cape  Weynton  for  his  next  journey — Buries  Too-koo-li-too's  child, 
"Little  King  William''— Arrives  at  Beacon  Hill  May  -2'A — The  Innuits  agree  to  go 

BACK   the   next  YEAR. 

The  first  page  of  the  Note-Book  for  the  last  day  of  Marcli,  1866, 
has  on  its  face,  in  bold  writing,  ^^ Now  for  King  WiUiam^s  Land!  Up  at 
4  a.  m.  and  getting  ready  for  a  starts 

The  wind  was  fresh  from  the  north-northwest,  and  the  temjiera- 
ture  ''  50  degrees  below  frost-point,"  yet  Hall  decided  to  make  his  first 
advance  of  five  miles  as  far  as  Ou-e-Ms  resting-place  on  North 
Pole  Lake,  and  from  that  point  to  send  forward  two  sledge-loads  of 
stores,  after  which,  before  setting  ont  finally  on  his  journey,  he  would 
make  a  safe  deposit  of  his  records  at  the  base  of  Beacon  Hill  on  its 
northeast  side.  Ebierbing,  Ar-mou,  Nii-Jier-zhoo,  young  She-nul--shoo 
and  his  mother,  with  Too-koo-li-too  and  the  families  of  Ar-mou  and 

237 


238  Sdll  Sets  Out  in  a  Gale.  [warch,  isee. 

XK-ker-^hoo,  made  up  his  party.  He  remained  behind  for  a  little 
while  to  compare  his  chronometers,  and,  after  '^ rendering  thanks  for 
(his)  innumerable  blessings,  to  ask  protection  on  departing  for  a  country 
where  dangers  would  be  found  on  every  hand."  Follo>ving  the  tracks 
of  the  sledges  as  well  as  he  could  trace  them  through  the  increasing 
(hitT,  lie  soon  overtook  his  party.  All  the  other  natives  who  had  been 
at  tliis  time  at  the  encampment  had  now  gone  off  in  different  direc- 
tions, some  toward  Now-yarn  and  others  to  the  lakes. 

The  gale  became  very  severe,  beating  fiercely  and  directly  in  the 
face  of  one  who  was  poorly  prepared  to  bear  it  from  his  having  eaten 
little  or  no  food  for  several  days.  In  writing  of  this,  he  says  there 
had  been  before  him  an  abundance  of  such  as  he  would  have  relished 
if  he  could  relish  anything ;  but  he  had  been  so  busy  in  writing  and 
so  enwrapped  in  anxieties  that  he  had  little  or  no  appetite. 

Let  one  wlio  has  had  the  like  exj)erience  as  mine,  with  no  other  people  but 
savages  to  deal  with,  say  whether  my  task  has  been  an  enviable  one  during  all 
the  time  of  making  every  due  aiTangement  and  preparation  for  this  journey. 
The  labor  of  the  writing  I  have  done,  without  speaking  of  anything  else,  has  been 
enough  to  kill  many  a  man,  and  has  nearly  killed  me. 

Coming  up  with  the  sledges,  he  now  lunched  on  raw  frozen 
venison  with  the  voracious  appetite  which  the  cold  gale  had  created; 
and  on  finding  that  Ar-mou  had  harnessed  himself  beside  his  four 
dogs,  placed  himself  at  the  rear  of  the  sledge,  helping  it  forward  by 
constantly  following  up  and  pushing.  Holding  his  head  low  down, 
he  was  sheltered  from  the  sharp  wind  by  the  load  on  the  sled.  Before 
midday  they  were  all  met  by  Ou-e-la  with  sick  wife  (No.  1),  coming 
dr)wn  the  river  in  haste  to  be  doctored.  Igloos  were  built,  and  twenty- 
one  ])<rsniis  turned  in  hastily  for  shelter.  The  position  was  found 
tn  he  jat.  nrr  34'  IX"  N.,  long.  86'"  57'  15"  W.    There  was  no  anxiety 


April,  1866.]  Sickness  Relieved.  239 

for  food,  as  besides  their  sled-loads  several  abundant  deposits  were 
still  near  them,  and  a  band  of  eleven  deer  made  their  appearance  on 
the  river-bank.  The  time  for  sealing  also  was  at  hand.  Hall's  own 
abstinence  and  anxieties  had  made  him  more  than  usually  susceptible 
to  cold,  so  that  he  was  not  surprised  to  find  his  face  frequently  frost- 
bitten on  this  journey  of  less  than  three  miles.  Tuk-too,  Ar-mou^s 
wife  No,  2,  drew  the  frost  out  by  applying  the  warmth  of  her  hand 
as  often  as  the  bite  showed  itself  Woman-like,  she  had  fallen  in  the 
rear  of  the  party,  to  help  him  if  he  should  be  in  need. 

Through  the  next  day  and  the  two  which  followed,  all  were  com- 
pletely storm-bound  within  the  igloos,  and  both  the  wife  of  Ou-e-la  and 
Too-koo-li-too's  babe,  "Little  King  William,"  became,  as  they  thought, 
dangerously  ill.  Hall  treated  each  case  with  a  dose  of  phodophyllin 
and  asclepin;  and  Ou-e-la,  who  had  been  fearing  now  a  second  time 
the  loss  of  the  companion  and  guide  of  his  travels,  was  again  happy. 

While  snow-bound.  Hall  learned  from  him,  among  other  facts 
belonging  to  Arctic  animal  life,  that  April  is  the  moon  for  the  birth  of 
the  young  seal ;  May  for  that  of  the  ook-gook  and  the  musk-ox ;  June 
for  the  deer  and  the  walrus,  and  July  for  the  eider-duck.  He  found 
also  that  the  Innuits  make  no  attempt  to  domesticate  such  animals  as 
the  wolf  or  the  deer,  from  the  belief  that  to  do  so  would  bring  death 
to  the  tribe.*  He  had  a  curious  account  of  the  hardening  process 
applied  to  the  Kin-na-pa-too  dogs,  who  eat  ver}^  little,  and  yet  keep  in 
good  order  and  do  much  service.     This  is  said  to  be  in  consequence  of 

•  As  exceptions  to  this  in  individual  cases,  the  two  following  stories  are  found  in  Hall's 
notes : 

THE  TAMED  WOLF. 

The  mother  of  Nu-ker-zhoo  once  captured  a  very  young  wolf,  of  which  she  took  the  greatest 
care,  feeding  it  with  the  choicest  food  she  could  secure,  and  sharing  with  it  her  bed.  She  hoped 
it  would  become  a  large  and  powerful  animal,  and  yet  remain  tractable  and  more  serviceable 


240  Innuit  Traditions.  i  April,  is««. 

their  being'  fed  when  young  but  once  a  week,  being  thus  kept  very 
l)Oor ;  when  lull  grown,  they  endure  all  manner  of  hardship  and  hold 
their  own.  The  Iwillik  people,  in  hard  times,  fed  their  dogs  once 
a  week. 

While  he  was  busily  wTiting  in  the  hut,  happening  to  have  in  his 
hand  a  long  knife,  Oii-e-la  told  him  that  the  Neitchille  men  and  See- 
nee  men  had  many  such  knives,  made  out  of  ver}^  long,  thick,  and 


than  a  dog,  and  would  catch  deer  for  her.  UnfortiTuately,  when  it  was  half  grown,  the  dogs  dis- 
covering that  their  ])laymate  was  a  diflerent  animal  and  an  enemy,  pounced  npon  him  and  tore 
him  to  pieces. 

THE  BEAR  STORY. 

[A  tradition  credited  by  all  the  Innnits  from  above  Cumberland  Gulf  to  Hudson's  Straits, 
and  from  Ig-loo-lik  to  Chesterfield  Inlet.] 

Many  moons  ago,  an  Innuit  woman  obtained  a  polar  bear  cub  but  two  or  three  days  old. 
Having  long  desired  just  such  a  pet,  she  gave  it  her  closest  attention,  as  though  it  were  a  son, 
nursing  it,  making  for  it  a  soft  warm  bed  alongside  her  own,  and  talking  to  it  as  a  mother  does 
to  her  child.  She  had  no  living  relative,  and  she  and  the  bear  occupied  the  igloo  alone.  Koon- 
ik-jooa,  as  he  grew  up,  proved  that  the  woman  had  not  taught  him  in  vain,  for  he  early  began 
to  hunt  seals  and  salmon,  bringing  them  to  his  mother  before  eating  any  himself,  and  receiving 
his  share  from  her  hands.  She  always  watched  from  the  hill-top  for  his  return,  and  if  she  saw 
that  he  had  been  unsuccessful,  she  begged  from  her  neighbors  blubber  for  his  food.  She  learned 
how  this  was  from  her  lookout,  for  if  successful,  he  came  back  in  the  tracks  made  on  going  ou(, 
but  if  unsuccessful,  always  by  a  different  route.  Learning  to  excel  the  Innuits  in  hunting,  he 
excited  their  envy,  and,  after  long  years  of  faithful  service,  his  death  was  resolved  upon.  On 
hearing  this,  the  old  woman,  overwhelmed  with  grief,  offered  to  give  up  her  own  life  if  they 
would  but  spare  him  who  had  so  long  supported  her.  Her  ofier  was  sternly  refused.  Upon  this, 
when  all  his  enemies  had  retired  to  their  ifiloos,  the  woman  had  a  long  talk  with  her  son — now 
well  grown  in  years — telling  him  that  wicked  men  were  about  to  kill  him,  and  that  the  only  way 
to  8a\  e  his  life  and  hers  was  for  him  to  go  off  and  not  return.  At  the  same  time  she  begged  him 
not  to  go  so  far  that  she  could  not  wander  off  and  meet  him,  and  get  from  him  a  seal  or  some- 
thing else  which  she  might  need.  The  bear,  after  listening  to  what  she  said  with  tears  stream- 
ing rlown  her  fuiTowed  cheeks,  gently  placed  one  huge  paw  on  her  head,  aiul  then  throwing  both 
ariMind  h<r  neck,  said,  "Good  mother,  Koon-ik-jooa  will  always  be  on  the  lookout  for  you  and 
serve  you  as  best  he  can."  Saying  this,  he  took  her  advice  and  departed,  almost  as  much  to  tlu' 
grief  of  the  children  of  the  village  as  to  the  mother. 

Not  long  after  this,  being  in  need  of  food,  she  walked  out  on  the  sea-ice  to  see  if  she  could 
not  meet  her  son,  and  soon  recognized  him  as  one  of  two  bears  who  were  lying  down  together. 
Hf  ran  to  ln-r,  and  she  j»atted  him  on  the  head  in  her  old  familiar  way,  told  him  her  wants,  and 
begged  him  to  hurry  away  and  get  something  for  her.  Away  ran  the  bear,  and  in  a  few  moments 
the  woman  looked  njion  a  terrilde  light  going  on  between  him  and  his  late  companion,  wliirh, 
how<'ver,  to  her  gnat  relief,  was  soon  ended  by  her  son's  dragging  a  lifeless  body  to  her  feet. 
Wilh  hi-T  ]iiiii-na  (long  knife)  she  qnickly  skinned  the  dead  bear,  giving  her  son  large  slices  of  the 
l>lnblMT,  and  telling  him  that  she  would  soon  return  for  the  meat  which  she  c<nild  not  at  first 
carry  to  her  iijloo.  and  when  her  supply  shr>nl<l  again  fail  she  would  eome  back  for  his  help.  This 
hhe  e«mtinned  to  do  for  "a  long,  long  time,"  tli.-  faitlit'iil  ])ear  always  serving  her  and  receiving 
the  hame  unbroken  love  of  his  vouth. 


April,  1S66.J  IlalVs  Ilecord-Deposit.  241 

heavy  ones  found  he  knew  not  where.  In  Hall's  mind,  these  heavy- 
ones  were,  without  doubt,  obtained  from  the  abandoned  ships  of 
Franklin's  Expedition;  but  he  shows  a  free  readiness  to  receive  suc-li 
impressions. 

On  the  3d,  a  Record  of  his  work  thus  far  done  was  deposited  at  the 
proposed  point,  the  bearings  of  which  were  noted  from  a  native  stone 
monument  5  feet  in  height,  and  from  the  oven  built  by  Dr.  Rae,  June 
23,  1847,  for  baking  with  heather  the  bread  described  in  his  Narra- 
tive. Ou-e-la  promised  to  have  care  of  the  cache,  and  when  he  should 
remove  to  Oog-la-ri-your  Island  take  the  Record  with  him,  to  secure 
it  from  destruction  in  the  summer  by  any  visiting  Pelly  Bay  or 
Neitchille  natives.  Parting  from  Hall  next  day  to  go  south,  he  took 
the  friendly  word  "  Ter-hou-e-tie^^  to  be  passed  to  the  whaling  captains 
when  they  should  arrive.     The  Innuits,  Hall  says,  never  say  farewell. 

The  sledges  for  North  Pole  River  now  went  forward  loaded  with 
heavy  stores,  and  over  all  these  Hall's  cutlass,  knife,  compass,  and 
medical  book.  The  course  was  north  50°  east.  The  sled  of  Oong-oo- 
too,  who,  with  I-vit-uJCj  had  now  brought  two  small  teams  to  join  the 
part}^  for  a  short  journey,  soon  broke  down;  it  was  made  of  poles 
only,  shod  as  usual  with  the  fine-chopped  moss  and  ice.  Its  load  was 
placed  upon  the  others  and  the  dogs  distributed  among  their  teams 
A  weight  of  about  500  pounds  of  whale-blubber  and  oil  in  seal-skins 
was  then  brought  out  from  a  deposit  found  on  the  road  to  Ou-e-Ja's  old 
igloo,  on  arriving  at  which  a  comfortable  meal  was  made  on  muk-tnl- ; 
the  sledg-es  were  unloaded  and  re- iced.  After  some  ineffectual  shots  fired 
into  a  band  of  twenty  frightened  deer,  the  next  halt  was  made,  for  build- 
ing igloos  on  the  ice  of  Dr.  Rae's  Christie  Lake,  lat.  66°  40'  45".  The  dis- 
tance made  was  inconsiderable,  but  the  halt  was  chiefly  for  the  sake  of 

S.  Ex.  27 IG 


242  An-1coo-ting.  [April,  isee. 

tlie  sick  child,  and  the  Iiinuits  themselves  said  that  it  was  their  habit 
to  make  short  da}-s'  journeys  at  the  firet,  extend  them  from  time  to 
time,  and  make  great  distances  toward  the  last.  For  a  gain  on  the 
morrow,  as  soon  as  Nu-l;er-zhoo  had  spent  his  half-hour  on  his  igloo,  he 
was  sent  off  five  miles  up  the  lake,  with  a  full  team,  to  deposit  a  sledge 
load  in  advance.  At  fj.30  p.  m.,  a  beautiful  parhelion  appeared  22°. 5 
north  side  of  the  sun ;  it  showed  prismatic  colors :  At  7^-  5""-  the  sun 
was  disappearing  behind  the  hills  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake.  Before 
the  day  closed.  Hall  noted  that  a  rivulet  of  an  eighth  of  a  mile  con- 
nects the  lake  with  North  Pole  River,  and,  uniting  two  large  sheets  of 
water,  forms  an  attractive  spot  for  the  deer.  Its  name  is  Koon-woo 
(the  deer-pass). 

At  this  thirtv-second  encampment,*  to  his  grievous  disappoint- 
ment, he  was  detained  until  the  11th  of  the  month  by  the  continued 
illness  of  Too-koo-li-too's  child.  Concentrated  medicine  adminis- 
tered for  pneumonia  did  not  effect  an  improvement  satisfactory  to  the 
mother ;  and  her  Innuit  friends  very  readily  took  occasion  to  recom- 
mend and  to  i)ractice  different  forms  of  their  own  healing  art  by  an- 
loo-tu/g.  Three  somewhat  different  trials  of  the  art  were  made.  On 
the  4th,  the  an-ge-ko  put  a  leather  strap  around  Ebierbing's  head  while 
lying  on  the  bed,  and  when  he  occasionally  pulled  on  this  strap,  the  head 
came  up,  or  it  remained  firmly  down  though  the  lifts  were  hard ;  the 
raising  of  the  liead  or  its  remaining  steady  indicated  the  different  replies 
to  tlie  questions  asked  as  to  the  future  of  the  babe.  On  the  7th,  the 
Ijabe's  health  not  having  improved,  Nu-ker-zhoo,  as  "  a  newly-fledged 
an-gc-ko,'^  entered  on  his  work  by  putting  the  strap  around  the  head  of 
one  of  the  women,  and  while  propounding  many  questions  to  the  Spirit, 

"Tor  tli<-  route  nuw  (raveled,  see  map  for  Chapter  XIII:  the  more  successful  journey  uur- 
ratc-d  ill  tliat  <liapt<r  hciiig  on  tlic  same  route  as  far  as  Cape  Weynton. 


April,  1866.J  An-hoo-ting  with  a  Stone.  243 

brought  up  her  liead  only  wlieii  an  affirmative  reply  was  made.     The 
third  operation,  on  the  8tli,  is  described  by  Hall  as  follows : 

Nu-lcer-zlioo  brought  into  our  iyloo  from  the  land  a  stone  weighing  10  pounds ; 
then  he  made  fast  a  string  of  ook-goolc  skin  to  the  stone,  and  thus  he  was  prepared 
for  his  witching  work.  I  got  on  the  bed-platform,  a  deeply-interested  si)ectator. 
The  persons  present  were  Nu-l-er-.:hoo,  Ar-mou,  Mam-marl;  myself,  Ebierbing, 
Too-koo-li-too,  and  their  sick  babe.  Except  Ar-mou,  who  stood  on  the  floor,  all 
were  seated  on  the  platform.  The  stone  with  which  Xu-lcer-zlioo  operated,  rested 
on  the  bed  beside  him,  and  the  string  that  encircled  the  stone  was  in  both  his  hands, 
the  hand  nearest  the  stone  being  used  as  a  kind  of  fnlcrum  as  well  as  for  the 
lifting-power.  It  was  by  his  side,  and  the  string  passed  just  above  his  lap  to  his 
right  hand.  The  first  proceedings  were  for  Nu-Jcer-zhoo,  on  having  the  string  in 
his  hand,  as  above,  to  woo  or  call  the  Spirit  to  the  stone  by  calling  out  ^'■At-tee! 
At-tee!^^  many  times;  lifting  each  time  on  the  stone  to  determine  whether  the 
Spirit  responded.  The  others  present  occasionally  joined  in  the  same  call.  After 
two  or  three  minutes  spent  in  this  way,  to  the  willing  eyes  of  N'u-Jcer-zhoo  the 
stone,  desi)ite  of  all  i)ulls,  became  almost  immovable  by  the  Spirit  pulling  hard 
down  on  it,  as  the  poor  devotees  to  this  absurd  business  believe.  This  was  the 
indication  that  the  Spirit  was  willing  and  ready  to  answer  any  question  that 
might  be  proposed.  If  the  answer  was  no,  the  stone  had  no  more  than  its  natural 
weight;  if  yes,  then  Nu-lier-zJioo  labored  hard  to  raise  it  the  least  hit. 

The  object  aimed  at  on  each  of  these  occasions  was  plainly  enoug-li 
indicated  by  some  of  the  many  questions  which  the  Spirit  answered. 
These  were,  "  Should  the  child  take  any  more  of  Hall's  medicines?" 
and,  more  pointedly,  "  Had  Too-koo-li-too  conformed  to  the  customs 
of  her  people  in  her  habits  of  daily  life,  food,"  &c.;  or  "on  what 
conditions  would  the  child's  life  be  saved!"  The  answers  to  such 
questions  as  the  two  first  of  these  were  always  strongly  in  the  nega- 
tive; to  the  third  it  was,  in  substance,  that  if  the  mother  should,  for 
the  space  of  five  months,  give  up  the  use  of  such  articles  as  bread  and 
tea,  or  remain  with  Ou-e-la's  people,  the  child  would  live;  but  if  the 


244  Too-koo-li-too  Obeys  the  An-ge-ko.  lAprii,  isee. 

parents  went  forward  with  it  to  the  Neitchille  country,  one  of  the  three 
wouhl  die. 

So  strong  had  been  tlie  persuasions  of  the  women  of  the  party, 
and  so  fully  under  the  power  of  their  people's  law  were  even  Ebier- 
hing  and  Too-koo-li-too  (although  they  had  lived  with  Hall  both 
in  their  own  country  and  in  the  United  States),  that  during  this 
temporary  lailure  of  the  power  of  his  medicines,  these  parents  gave 
themselves  fully  up  to  this  superstition.  His  notes  show  how  sin- 
cerely grieved  he  was  at  the  risk  to  which  this  giving  up  of  medicine 
was  subjecting  the  child  ;  how  tiied  in  spirit  he  was  at  their  degrading 
subjection,  and  yet  how  helpless  he  was  to  afford  relief.  Too-koo- 
li-too,  when  almost  persuaded  to  let  the  child  again  have  relief, 
pleaded  that  she  and  her  husband  would  be  cursed  by  the  Innuits; 
and  told  Hall  plainly  that  if  the  an-ge-Jco  were  not  obeyed  they  would 
all  desert  him.  The  whole  of  this  matter  was  still  the  more  trying, 
because,  although  there  were  some  singular  phenomena  for  which  Hall 
says  he  could  no  more  account  than  for  like  things  in  the  spirit-rap- 
pings in  his  own  country,  the  actions  of  the  an-ge-ko  could  generally 
as  plainly  be  seen  through  as  was  his  object;  for  on  closely  watching 
him,  as  in  the  process  of  the  stone-lifting.  Hall  saw  well  enough  that 
wlien  the  weight  was  about  to  be  lifted  with  great  difficulty  Nu-ker-zlioo 
prejjared  himself  beforehand  for  a  strong  pull,  and  as  plainly  did  the 
opposite  when  it  suited  his  purpose.  "  What  was  all  this  lifting  for? 
']'«)  gratif}'  the  devil,  who  has  been  doing  his  evil  work  through  the  dark 
Ijenighted  minds  of  this  truly  savage  people."  Hall  told  Too-koo- 
li-too  ;iii(l  ICIjierljing  that  they  must  not  mind  the  information  pretended 
tn  be  got  out  of  a  stone,  and  confidentially  sliowed  them  the  deception 
that  Xn-kcr-zho(j  had  practiced  in  lifting  it  and  in  the  former  lifts  of  the 


April,  1S60.]  Arrival  at  Christie  Lake.  245 

heads,  notwithstanding  which  Ebierbing  rewarded  the  an-ge-lio  hy 
getting  for  him  one  of  Hall's  hand-saws  and  presenting  liiiii  with  liis 
own  gun. 

On  the  15th  the  sledge  parties  arrived  at  the  place  marked  on  the 
map  to  be  found  in  Chapter  XIII,  "  Encampment  33"  The  mother 
of  the  sick  babe,  "  Little  King  William,"  had  now  been  persuaded  to 
permit  the  further  "exhibiting"  of  medicines,  and  to  trust  Hall's  judg- 
ment that  the  child  would  be  in  as  fair  way  of  recovery  if  borne  in 
her  hood  on  the  sled  as  if  kept  in  the  snow  house.  The  heavier  loads 
being  again  pushed  forward,  the  parties  in  charge  made  their  next 
deposit  on  the  crown  of  the  land  a  little  beyond  the  end  of  Christie  Lake, 
and  halted  here,  not  knowing  the  route  further  toward  Ak-koo-lee — 
Committee  Bay.  Mam-mark  was  looked  to  for  their  guide  when  they 
should  resume  their  journey,  as  she  alone  knew  the  northern  route. 
Hall  believed  that  the  point  reached  was  the  "  Flett"  land  of  Dr.  Rae; 
and  from  this  point,  if  Mam-marJc's  guidance  failed,  he  could  go  for- 
ward safely  by  the  aid  of  Rae's  chart.  At  the  Lower  Narrows  many 
deer  had  been  seen,  the  spot  being  a  famous  one  for  the  number  of 
these  animals,  which,  while  crossing  in  their  season  from  one  sheet  of 
water  to  the  other,  are  speared  by  the  Innuits  from  their  ki-as. 

In  letters  written  to  Mr.  Grinnell,  Mr.  Brevoort,  and  Captains 
Chapel,  Kilmer,  and  White,  Hall  stated  with  care  the  places  of  his 
record-deposits,  and  what  disposition  he  desired  should  be  made  of 
them  if  looked  for ;  adding  that  he  must  be  absent  from  Repulse  Bay 
till  the  following  spring,  and  perhaps  for  another  year.  The  records 
of  his  work  at  Repulse  Bay  would  be  found,  as  heretofore  named,  at 
the  base  of  Beacon  Hill;    those  which  he  hoped  to  make  on  King 


246  Man-Lines  to  Help  the  Dogs.  lAprii,  is66. 

William's  Land  would  be  at  the  points  used  by  Lieutenant  McClin- 
tock  in  the  expedition  of  the  Fox  ;  in  general,  they  would  be  found  at 
the  end  of  a  line  25  feet  north  from  stone  monuments  which  he  would 
build.  Oonff-oo-too,  who  was  now  about  to  return  to  Repulse  Bay,  had 
special  instructions  to  Ou-e-Ia  to  deliver  these  letters  to  any  whale- 
ships  which  should  come  in ;  and  he,  as  well  as  I-vit-uk,  were  re- 
warded for  their  past  services  with  all  the  tobacco  which  could  be 
o-athered  from  Hall's,  Nu-ker-zliod's,  Ar-mou^s,  and  Ebierbing's  pocl  jts. 

On  the  withdrawal  of  their  teams.  Hall  was  gratified  to  find  that 
he  still  had  three  strong  sledges  and  a  team  of  eighteen  dogs  including 
two  powerful  old  ones ;  which  would  be  enough  for  even  the  three 
usual  daily  trips — the  advance,  with  its  return,  and  the  forward  journey. 
Making  an  early  start,  with  the  wind  and  temperature  in  their  favor, 
after  a  fair  new  advance,  they  made  their  usual  repast  on  frozen  veni- 
son, slaking  their  thirst  through  a  hole  chiseled  6  feet  into  the  ice, 
over  which  the  snow  lay  18  inches  deep.  Having  here  an  ascent  to 
overcome,  "man-lines"  were  prepared  from  ooh-gook  skin  for  harness- 
ing helpers  to  the  dogs ;  these  were  made  fast  to  one  of  the  sledge 
cross-bars,  and  as  near  the  stern  as  possible,  and  were  long  enough  to 
harness  a  man  on  each  side  of  the  head  of  the  sled.  Both  Mam-mark 
and  Xu-ker-zJioo  having  forgotten  at  this  point  the  northern  route  taken 
b\'  them  twelve  years  before,  Hall  chose  the  left  of  two  routes  open- 
ing toward  Pelly  Bay,  believing  that  this  was  Dr.  Rae's  route.  On 
the  l.'jth,  ke})t  within  their  huts  by  a  gale,  the  day  was  spent  by  the  In- 
Iiniuits  feasting  and  playing  dominoes;  in  the  evening  Hall  had  renewed 
(•r»nversati(>ns  with  Xn-ker-zlioo  and  his  wife  about  Franklin's  Expedition. 

Delays  increased.  But  little  disposition  was  now  found  among 
tlic  Iiniuits,  (•!•  oven   in  I'^bierbing,  to  push  on  to  King  William's  Land. 


April,  1866.)  Delays.  247 

They  feared  that  they  would  find  no  reindeer  there,  and  that  if  they 
reached  the  place  they  would  be  compelled  to  return  to  Pelly  Bay  for 
the  winter.  Hall  encouraged  them  to  believe  that  they  would  be 
among  a  number  of  natives,  and  would  find  sufficient  provision;  but  as 
no  one  of  them  could  appreciate  his  chief  object,  he  could  gain  upon  them 
only  by  alternately  showing  determined  resolve  and  next  persuasion — 
the  latter  was  of  necessity  the  usual  course.  He  resolved  on  spending 
as  little  time  as  possible  in  making  astronomical  observations  or  in 
writing.  His  notes  of  the  day  contain  the  expression  of  a  purpose,  that  if 
even  all  the  Innuits  deserted  him,  he  would  go  on  with  a  sledge-team 
by  himself;  for  he  never  could  return  to  his  country  without  accom- 
plishing something  of  the  objects  for  which  he  had  left  his  home. 
It  may  be  remarked,  in  passing,  that  the  sincerity  of  this  record  is 
confirmed  by  the  fact  that  he  not  only  might  have  returned  in  one  of 
the  whalers  during  the  previous  summer,  but  that  he  had  been  apprised 
by  his  friend  Mr.  Grinnell  of  the  willingness  of  Captain  Chapel  now  to 
look  him  up  in  Repulse  Bay  and  bring  him  back. 

On  the  14th  he  could  easily  have  made  ten  miles  had  Nu-ker- 
zlioo  and  Ebierbing  been  any  other  than  Innuits.  In  the  night,  how- 
ever, these  friends  proved  their  value  in  another  way — by  saving  the 
dogs,  his  northern  camels.  Plunging,  though  unarmed  with  even  a 
knife,  into  a  pack  of  twenty-five  devouring  wolves,  they  frightened 
them  ofi"  by  shouts  ;  more  than  once  the  furious  animals  formed  in  fine 
for  a  new  attack.  Delayed  until  10  a.  m.  of  the  following  morning  by 
this  night-watch  against  the  wolves  and  by  Nii-lxer-zlwo's  renewing  his 
an-koo-ting  for  Little  King  William,  the  sledges  at  last  started  forward, 
and  made  better  progress  through  the  day,  although  the  wind  fresh- 
ened to  a  gale  from  the  north,  and  the  run  was  made  more  difficult 


248  An-hoo-tmg  for  the  Babe  Benetved.  [April,  iseo. 

bv  the  recent  fiill  of  snow.  At  times,  the  teams  were  doubled  up  to 
ascend  the  hill,  the  change  requiring  but  half  a  minute.  When  one 
of  the  drivers  was  found  nearly  exhausted  by  his  peculiar  Innuit 
uro-ino'  of  his  dogrs,  Hall  drove  his  team  and  o^xve  him  a  small  swig-  of 
Bourbon ;  and  by  extending  the  gift  later  in  the  day  to  the  other  men, 
gained  their  willing  travel  of  an  additional  hour.  While  passing  over 
one  of  the  lakes,  She-nuh-slioo  picked  up  a  mass  of  reindeer-hair  with  a 
piece  of  the  skin  having  fresh  blood  on  it — a  mark  of  the  work  of 
some  of  the  very  numerous  wolves,  whose  tracks  were  all  along  the 
route.  The  thirty-fourth  encampment  was  made  at  4.47  p.  m.,  the 
wind  blowing  a  gale  and  the  snow  flying  thickly.  While  the}^  were 
building  igloos,  Hall  himself  succeeded  in  chiseling  in  thirty-five  min- 
utes through  ice  6  feet  thick,  and  in  one  hour  slaked  his  great  thirst 
with  "  four  quarts  of  glorious  water."  On  their  way  they  had  passed 
the  grave  of  the  unfortunate  Ar-too-a,  who,  as  has  been  before  noted, 
had  been  drowned  in  the  lake  the  preceding  summer.  The  course 
during  the  day  had  been  north  53°  east,  and  the  rate  of  travel  had 
averaged  two  and  a  half  miles  an  hour.  Where  they  halted,  a  great 
number  of  Innuit  stone-marks  were  found,  set  up  to  direct  the  bands 
of  migrating  deer  across  a  narrow  channel  of  the  lake  passed  over. 
At  night  another  furious  wolf-attack  was  repelled. 

A  new  and  tedious  delay  began  on  the  15th.  The  mother  of  the 
sick  child,  alarmed  by  its  much-changed  looks,  again  summoned  her 
I'riends,  and  Nii-l^er-zlioo  renewed  his  an-koo-ting,  beginning  this  time 
by  a  solenm  march  with  Ebierbing's  double-barreled  gun  in  hand, 
and  uttering  for  some  fifteen  minutes  along  the  passage-way  the  most 
v<.cif('rous  cries.  Within  the  ^gloo,  on  the  full  renewal  of  the  stone- 
lilting  feat,  the  replies  of  the   Spirit  through  the  an-ge-lco  to  the  dis- 


April,  1S66.]  The  Babe  Given  Away.  249 

tressed  mother  were  positive  that  the  child  would  live ;  and  her  belief 
in  this  was  confirmed  by  its  temporary  revival  from  what  had  seemed 
to  Hall  when  he  looked  on  it  in  her  hood,  to  be  the  presence  of  actual 
death.  The  confidence  of  the  parents  in  his  judgment,  he  thought,  how- 
ever, was  weakened  by  their  remembering  his  having  given  them  hope 
of  the  life  of  their  child  Too-lie-li-le-ta  (the  Butterfly)  not  long  before  it 
died  in  New  York  in  1863.  The  an-ge-ko  renewed  his  positive  assurances 
by  the  answers  from  the  lifted  head  of  the  girl,  Took-too,  after  he  had. 
completed  his  work  with  the  stone.  Two  days  after,  the  mother,  in 
her  despair  and  professed  willingness  to  do  anything  to  save  life,  pro- 
posed to  fall  in  with  the  custom  practiced  by  her  own  people  of  Cum- 
berland Inlet,  which  is,  in  such  cases  of  extremity,  to  save  life  hy  giving 
away  the  child  to  another  person.  Her  own  immediate  connections  on 
the  inlet  had  been  unfortunate  in  the  loss  of  their  children,  but  she 
remembered  and  related  several  cases  in  which,  as  her  people  thought, 
health  had  been  in  this  way  certainly  restored.  Whether  it  was  by 
request  or  not  does  not  appear,  but  Nu-ker-zhod's  wife  came  to  the 
igloo  the  same  evening,  and  was  witness  to  the  clear  answers  through 
the  again  lifted  head  of  Took-too  that  the  babe  must  be  given  away  the 
next  morning.  Too-koo-li-too  had  taken  full  share  in  the  feat  of  the 
evening,  contributing  a  peculiar  wood-button  to  the  an-ge-ko,  who 
threw  it  rapidly  down,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other  of  Took- 
too^s  head,  dashing  it  finally  against  the  igloo  wall;  and  she  gave 
up  the  babe  the  next  morning  to  the  woman  who  had  consented  to 
receive  it  from  her  before  the  an-koo-ting  began ;  but,  a  day  or  two 
after,  on  Hall's  telling  Nu-ker-zhoo  boldly  and  with  fire  in  his  words 
that  the  child  must  go  back,  another  an-koo-ting  restored  it.  The 
mother  had  suffered,  too,  for  want  of  her  babe  at  the  breast,  and  the 


250  Uncertainty  as  to  the  Route.  [April,  iseo. 

cliild  liad  no  nourislimeiit  except  a  piece  of  raw  meat  to  suck.  With 
but  one  exception,  however,  entreaties  to  resume  the  administering  of 
medicine  were  refused  up  to  the  day  of  its  release  from  its  sufferings. 

On  the  morning  of  the  16th,  Ebierbing  and  Hall  climbed  a  hill 
300  feet  above  the  lake,  but  were  shut  out  from  any  clear  sight  of  the 
sea  to  the  north  by  the  thickly-flying  snow ;  they  thought  that  through 
the  spy-glass  they  could  obscurely  make  out  sea-ice.  All  along  their 
route,  tracks  of  tlie  musk-ox  were  now  plainly  recognized  by  their 
stand-droppings,  so  much  larger  than  those  of  the  deer ;  reindeer  were 
seen,  but  the  travelers  had  no  weapons  with  them  but  long  knives. 
The  view  from  the  hill  took  in  lakelets  in  every  direction ;  the  one  on 
which  tliey  were  encamped,  was  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length,  with  an 
arm  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill  that  seemed  to  extend  itself  to  the  sea; 
while  the  number  of  the  lakes  made  it  more  difficult  than  ever  to  deter- 
mine whether  they  were  really  upon  Dr.  Eae's  old  route.  Hall  thought 
that  a  dozen  different  routes  might  be  followed  from  Christie  Lake  to 
the  Sea  of  Ak-koo-lee. 

On  his  return  from  the  hill,  he  found  that  a  puppy  had  capsized 
his  artificial  horizon,  spilling  all  the  mercury,  and  Mani-tnark  had  not 
much  improved  the  matter  by  gathering  it  from  the  snow  into  a  tin 
dish.  Provoking  as  this  was,  he  had  to  make  the  best  of  it,  as  a  few 
days  before  he  had  done  when  the  dogs  fell  to  fighting  while  he  was 
taking  his  meridian  observations — the  dogs,  in  the  muss,  knocking  the 
liorizon  over  and  over.  Such  annoyances  and  worse  ones,  not  unfre- 
quently  occurring,  he  wished  all  the  dogs  in  "Tophet";  j^et  he  writes, 
tliey  "  are  a  blessing  to  an  Arctic  traveler.  I  hope  some  day  to  have 
tlu'ir  aid  in  ^"-etting  to  tlie  North  Pole." 

<  )n  liic    17th,  another  day  was  forced  from  him  for  rest  by  the 


April,  1S66.]  The  Slcdcje  Capsized  to  Stop  the  Dogs.  251 

Innuits.  Eighteen  days  had  now  passed  without  making  an  advance 
of  more  than  thirty-two  miles  to  his  present  position,  lat,  67°  4'  N. ; 
but  such  delays  as  had  been  necessary  on  the  score  of  humanity  were 
not  regretted.  During  this  day,  Ebierbing,  who  had  seen  Hall's  tooth- 
pullers  and  heard  him  describe  lancing  the  gums,  drew  out  one  of  his 
own  three-pronged  molars,  bleeding  himself  profusely  by  his  four  trials. 
On  Hall's  looking  over  his  instruments,  and  taking  out  with  them  a 
couple  of  combination  knife-fork-and-spoon  articles.  Mam-mark  who 
saw  them,  told  him  that  she  had  seen  among  the  Innuits  at  Pelly  Bay 
many  forks,  all  of  the  same  silver-like  look,  as  well  as  many  watches 
and  chains. 

The  day  following,  all  the  men,  women,  and  children  were  break- 
fasted on  bread  and  coffee;  they  once  more  made  a  start,  the  travel 
averaging  two  miles  per  hour,  and  by  four  o'clock,  with  difficulty, 
arrived  at  a  place  within  two  miles  of  the  sea.  While  going  down  the 
hill  to  Salt  Lake,  the  descent  being  at  an  angle  of  about  4.5°,  and  the 
loads  heavy,  all  the  dogs  were  detached  and  the  sledges  let  go  on  their 
own  hook.  A  little  further  on,  Hall's  sledge  fell  behind,  the  runners 
dragging  heavily.  In  order  to  renew  the  shoeing,  his  driver  and  him- 
self filled  their  mouths  with  snow-water,  which  would  again  freeze 
while  they  were  putting  it  on  ;  but  She-nuk-shoo  grunting  out  that  he 
would  lose  his  mouthful  if  even  he  cried  out  to  the  dogs  to  stop,  they 
capsized  the  sledge  to  stop  them.  Five  minutes  later  they  were  gliding 
over  the  snow  as  if  over  glass.  A  different  kind  of  grunting,  took-too- 
like,  made  by  Nu-ker-zhoo,  kept  a  band  of  deer  following  the  sledge  so 
closely  for  more  than  two  miles  that  their  eyes  were  plainly  seen  when 
they  stopped  to  stare.  He  kept  up  with  Hall,  yet  took  time  to  make 
several  shots,  and  killed  a  fine  buck. 


252  Arrival  at  Cape  Lady  Pelly.  [Aprii,  isee. 

By  tlie  1 1'tli  of  tlie  month,  Ilall  liad  struck  the  rough  ice  of  the  sea  of 
Ak-koo-lee,  and,  passing  over  one  of  its  small  arms,  made  his  encamp- 
ment upon  it.  On  the  20th,  he  measured  a  rough  lunar  distance  to  test 
the  correctness  of  his  dates,  and  confirmed  them  by  comparison  of  this 
measurement  with  those  given  in  the  Nautical  Almanac;  he  was  unable 
to  make  any  further  advance  on  this  day.  The  first  headland  met  on 
resuming  the  journey  on  the  21st  was  a  projecting  point  100  feet  in 
height.  On  the  22d,  by  meridian  observations,  he  determined  his  lati- 
tude, and  by  comparison  of  four  chronometers  found  his  longitude  to 
agree  Avithin  11'  of  that  given  on  Dr.  Rae's  chart;  the  latitude  agreed 
very  well  for  the  relative  situations  of  Cape  Lady  Pelly  and  Point 
Hargrave.  Making  an  effort  to  push  his  advance  parties  forward  by 
longer  journeys,  of  at  least  25  miles  per  day,  by  saving  the  time 
usually  spent  in  loading  up  and  in  building  igloos,  on  the  23d  he 
reached  Cape  Lady  Pelly,  and  halted  to  discover  how  he  might  get 
round  the  point,  as  the  ice  was  exceedingly  rough.  ''Jagged  and 
broken  granite  stones  are  in  plenty  here,  where  I  suppose  Dr.  Rae 
made  his  advance  deposits  in  1854." 

The  land  a  little  further  on  was  found  to  be  very  low,  forming  an 
inclined  plane  to  the  coast,  interrupted  by  a  short  highland  one  mile 
distant  from  and  parallel  with  it.  As  far  as  to  Point  Swanton,  the 
coast-line  was  afterward  found  so  low  that  it  was  difficult  to  tell  whether 
they  were  on  sea-ice  or  land ;  the  travel  was  upon  the  ice-foot,  which 
was  from  10  to  30  yards  wide,  on  the  outside  of  which  were  heavy 
masses  of  very  rough  ice  from  50  to  200  yards  in  width,  while  the  sea 
itself  was  covered  with  solid  pack-ice.  On  the  24th  two  deer,  shot  by 
Kbior])ing  and  Ar-mou  v;\i\i  Hall's  favorite  rifle,  were  added' to  the 
h.ads  (in  the  sleds.     Tlie  older  one  had  antlers  18  inches  long,  which, 


April,  1866.1  Fast  Driving.  253 

being  a  female,  she  had  not  shed.  She  was  found  with  young  the  size 
of  a  rabbit;  this  the  Innuits  forbade  to  be  taken  from  lior.  Pai'tridges 
white  as  snow,  rabbits,  and  a  number  of  snow-birds  were  seen.  On  the 
25th  they  halted  on  the  ice,  in  three  igloos,  and  Hall  congratulated  him- 
self that  he  had  that  day  advanced  the  whole  company  and  stores  17 
miles;  to  accomplish  which,  however,  he  had  made  60  miles,  taking 
in  all  the  advance  and  return  trips  necessar}^  for  forwarding  the  stores. 

But  the  next  two  days  were  again  lost.  The  Innuits  pleaded  that 
they  must  go  on  a  musk-ox  hunt,  and  on  Hall's  consenting  to  this  for 
one  day,  they  next  pleaded  that  the  first  day  of  halt  must  be  one  of 
rest.  On  the  day  following,  they  failed  in  their  hunt,  and  would  not 
turn  aside  to  secure  the  deer  which  were  close  by.  Hall,  not  willing 
to  be  unoccupied,  made  a  side  journey  to  bring  up  his  deposits ;  but 
he  was  obliged  to  take  the  reins  into  his  own  hands  from  the  im- 
petuosity of  his  young  driver,  She-nuk-sJwo,  who  had  whipped  the 
dogs  so  incessantly  as  to  keep  them  jumping  over  one  another,  so 
that  in  five  minutes  the  lines  became  woven  and  interwoven  up  to 
the  heels  of  the  hindmost  dogs — a  very  unusual  occurrence.  With 
much  less  whipping,  Hall  secured  as  fair  speed.  On  the  next  day 
he  worked  up  his  observations  and  obtained  from  his  men  the  prom- 
ise of  greater  haste.  Nu-her-zJioo  told  him  they  ought  to  reach  Pelly 
Bay,  still  80  miles  distant,  in  three  days. 

On  the  27th,  the  fresh  provisions  being  nearly  exhausted,  the 
whole  party  breakfasted  on  coffee  and  pemmican ;  at  a  late  hour,  only 
a  load  of  stores  was  pushed  forward  by  Ebierbing  and  Nu-ker-zhoo. 
Returning  at  10.30  p.  m.,  Ebierbing  reported  that  these  had  been 
deposited  at  a  point  which,  as  well  as  he  could  make  it  out  l)y  l)r 
Rae's  chart,  was  close  by  Cape  Weynton,  on  the  soutli  side  of  Colvile 


204  Feeding  the  Dogs.  [Aprii,  jsee. 

Bav.  Hall  ^yas  here  forced  to  remember  that  Dr.  Rae  in  1854  had  made 
the  same  journey  from  Fort  Hope  in  five  days,  his  party  dragging* 
their  own  provisions  without  even  the  aid  of  a  dog.  It  had  now  cost 
himself  twenty-eight  days  with  the  help  of  his  teams.  All  the  Innuits 
believed,  however,  that  liae  must  have  found  the  ice  on  the  sea  of 
Ak-koo-lee  much  smoother,  or  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  him  to 
travel  so  far  out  from  the  coast-line. 

The  dogs  not  having  been  fed  for  five  days,  a  40-pound  piece  of 
whale-beef  was  now  cut  up  and  buttered  for  them  with  ooh-gook  blub- 
ber and  seal-oil.  They  were  then  put  in  one  by  one  into  an  abandoned 
igloo,  while  Mammark  stood  inside,  club  in  hand,  to  beat  off  all  but  the 
one  to  be  fed,  and  to  pound  him  out  when  Hall  had  fed  him.  A  short 
time  before,  Ar-mou  had  nearly  killed  one  of  his  best  dogs  by  throw- 
ing a  hatchet  at  him  for  stealing,  and  to  recover  this  hatchet  which 
had  been  left  behind,  and  a  w^ood-button  used  by  the  an-ge-ko,  had 
cost  Hall  some  of  the  provoking  delays  of  the  jom-ney. 

On  the  28th  no  advance  was  made.  The  march  would  have  been 
resumed  northward  and  westward  despite  of  a  severe  gale,  but  Too- 
koo-li-too  was  entirely  broken  down  by  the  continued  watching  of  her 
child.  After  a  serious  talk  with  both  parents,  they  once  more  per- 
mitted it  to  take  medicine  while  in  an  epileptic  fit — "two  drops  of 
A-iratum  \  iride  and  one-half  grain  of  asclepin."  The  day  following, 
the  wind  being  fresh  from  north-northwest  and  the  temperature  40° 
l)elow  freezing-point,  three  miles  per  hour  (two  and  a  half  on  direct 
course)  were  made  within  the  hours  from  9.40  a.  m.  to  6.20  p.  m.,  two 
stoppages  being  needed  to  disentangle  the  dog-lines.  Two  small 
streams  were  ])assed,  which  emptied  into  the  sea  of  Ak-koo-lee.  11ie 
travel  was  mostly  on  tlie  coast-line  ice,  the  coast  itself  and  the  hilly 


April,  istiG.]  Meeting  tvith  Natives  from  Felly  Bay.  255 

land  running"  parallel  with  it  being  a  plain  lowland  of  from  half  a 
a  mile  to  one  mile  in  width.  Cape  Weynton  was  soon  on  their  lar- 
board beam,  bearing  due  west,  and  distant  half  a  mile.  The  cape  is 
not  more  than  50  feet  in  height. 

A  new  era  in  the  history  of  this  sledge  journey  now  opened.  As- 
cending a  berg  30  feet  above  the  level  of  a  floe  to  prospect  the  best 
route  across  Colvile  Bay,  Hall,  with  Ar-mou  and  She-nuk-sJioo,  caught 
sight  of  four  strange  Innuits  who  appeared  to  be  sealing  some  three 
miles  to  the  northeast.  The  sight  occasioned  some  excitement,  for, 
while  there  was  every  reason  to  establish  friendly  intercourse  with 
these  men,  in  order  to  obtain  further  information  bearing  upon  the 
main  objects  of  his  expedition.  Hall  had  his  apprehension  that  if  these 
should  prove  to  be  See-neem-e-utes,  he  would  need  to  be  cautious  in 
every  movement.  He  quickly  unloaded  one  sledge  and  sent  it  back, 
with  all  the  dogs,  to  hasten  up  the  rest  of  his  party ;  they  arrived  at  2 
p.  m.  But  Nu-ker-zlioo,  watching  with  a  spy-glass  the  movements  of 
these  strange  Innuits,  felt  sure  that  he  recognized  old  friends.  Hall's 
party  going  forward,  therefore,  arrived  at  9.50  p.  m.  (sunset),  at  the 
snow  village  of  the  strangers,  and  made  their  fortieth  encampment 
alongside  of  them  on  the  ice  of  the  sea,  three  miles  from  the  coast  and 
near  Cape  Beaufort.  The  next  morning,  no  sooner  was  Hall's  igloo 
unsealed  than  it  was  filled  with  new  faces. 

Kok-lee-arng-nun,  their  head  man,  showed  two  spoons  which  had  been 
given  to  liim  by  Ag-loo-ka  (Crozier),  one  of  them  having  the  initials  F. 
R.  M.  C.  stamped  upon  it.  His  wife,  Koo-narng,  had  a  silver  watch-case. 
This  opened  up  the  way  for  immediate  inquiries.  Through  Too-koo-li- 
too  who  as  usual  soon  proved  a  good  intrepreter,  it  was  learned  that 
these  Innuits  had  been  at  one  time  on  board  of  the  ships  of  Too-loo-ark, 


25G  Franldin  and  Crozier  Described.  [Aphi,  isee. 

(the  gvQut  EsJi-c-))n(t-faj  Sir  John  Franklin),  and  had  their  tiipiks  on  the 
ice  alongside  of  him  during-  the  spring  and  summer.  They  spoke  of 
one  sliip  not  far  from  Ook-kee-bee-jee-lua  (Pelly  Ba}^),  and  two  to  the 
westward  of  Xeit-tee-lik,  near  Ook-goo-lik.  Kok-lee-arng-nun  was  ''  a 
big  bov  when  very  many  men  from  the  ships  hunted  tooJc-too.  They 
had  guns,  and  knives  with  long  handles,  and  some  of  their  party  hunted 
the  tooJc-ioo  on  the  ice  ;  killing  so  many  that  they  made  a  line  across  the 
whole  bay  of  Ook-goo-lik."  The  Pelly  Bay  men  described  the  Esli-e- 
mut-ta  as  an  old  man  with  broad  shoulders,  thick  and  heavier  set  than 
Hall,  with  gray  hair,  full  face,  and  bald  head.  He  was  always  wear- 
ing sometliing  over  his  eyes  (spectacles,  as  Too-koo-li-too  interpreted 
it),  was  cpiite  lame,  and  appeared  sick  when  they  last  saw  him.  He 
was  very  kind  to  the  Innuits; — always  wanting  them  to  eat  something. 
Ag-Ioo-ka  (Crozier)  and  another  man  would  go  and  do  everything  that 
Too-ho-arh  told  them,  just  like  boys  ;  he  was  a  very  cheerful  man, 
always  laughing;  everybody  liked  him — all  the  A'0&-/i^-was  and  all  the 
Imiuits.  Kok-lee-arng-nun  showed  how  Too-loo-arh  and  Ag-loo-ha  used 
t(»  meet  him.  They  would  take  hold  of  his  hand,  giving  it  a  few  warm 
and  friendly  shakes,  and  Too-loo-arh  would  say,  ^'■Ma-my-too-mig-tey-mar 
Ag-loo-ka's  hand-shaking  was  short  and  jerky,  and  he  would  only  say, 
^^Man-nig-too-meJ^  "After  the  first  summer  and  first  winter,  they  saw 
no  more  of  Too-loo-arh ;  ihen  Ag-loo-ha  (Crozier)  was  the  TJsh-e-mut-ta." 
'I'Ik'  olrl  man  and  his  wife  agreed  in  saying  that  the  ship  on  board 
(if  which  they  had  often  seen  Too-loo-arh  was  overwhelmed  with  heavy 
ice  ill  the  spring  of  the  year.  Wiiile  the  ice  was  slowly  crushing  it, 
tiie  iiifii  all  worked  for  their  lives  in  getting  out  provisions;  but,  before 
they  cniild  save  much,  the  ice  turned  the  vessel  down  on  its  side, 
crusliiiig  the  masts  and  breaking  a  hole  in  her  bottom   and  so   over- 


April,  1866.]         Reported  Visits  by  Innuits  to  Franklin's  Ships.  257 

whelming-  her  tliat  she  sank  at  once,  and  had  never  been  seen  again. 
Several  men  at  work  in  her  could  not  get  out  in  time,  and  were  carried 
down  with  her  and  drowned.  ''  On  this  account  Ag-loo-kd!s  company- 
had  died  of  starvation,  for  they  had  not  time  to  get  the  provisions  out 
of  her."  Ag-loo-ka  and  one  other  white  man — the  latter  called  ^^Nar- 
tar^''^  a  pee-ee-tu  (steward) — started  and  went  toward  Oot-koo-ish-ee-lee 
(Great  Fish  or  Back's  River),  saying  they  were  going  there  on  their 
way  home.  That  was  the  last  they  saw  of  them,  but  heard  of  them 
some  time  after  from  a  Kin-na-pa-too,  who  said  he  and  his  people 
heard  shots  or  reports  of  guns  of  strangers  somewhere  near  Chester- 
field Inlet.  On  getting  the  Innuits  to  try  to  pronounce  the  word 
"doctor,"  they  invariably  said  ^'- nar-tarT  This  made  Hall  think  that 
the  white  man  with  Ag-loo-ka  was  some  one  called  "doctor" — perhaps 
Surgeon  Macdonald,  of  Franklin's  ship,  the  Erebus. 

The  other  ship  spoken  of  as  seen  near  Ook-goo-lik  was  in  com- 
plete order,  having  three  masts  and  four  boats  hanging  at  the  davits — 
whale-ship  like.  For  a  long  time  the  Innuits  feared  to  go  on  board  ; 
but  on  the  report  by  one  of  them  that  he  had  seen  one  man  on  the 
vessel  alive,  many  of  the  natives  visited  it,  but  saw  nothing  of  the 
man.  They  then  rummaged  everywhere,  taking  for  themselves  what 
they  wanted,  and  throwing  overboard  guns,  powder,  ball,  and  shot. 

At  an  interview  with  the  mother  of  Too-shoo-art-thar-iu  whose  son 
saw  Ag-loo-ka  (Crozier)  on  the  island  of  Ook-goo-lik,  Hall  was  told 
that  during  the  previous  summer  or  winter,  the  Innuits  of  Ook-goo-lik 
had  found  two  boats  with  dead  koh-lu-nas  in  them — the  boats  on 
sledges  ;  and  that  In-nook-poozJi-e-jook  had  one  of  them. 

The  several  interviews  from  which  the  accounts  here  given  have 
been  collated  were  deeply  interesting  to  Hall.  They  were  held  in  the 
S.  Ex.  27 17 


258 


Discouraging  News. 


lApril,  t§66. 


>t 


presence  of  his   tAvo   steadfast  friends   as   interpreters,   and   of   other 

Inniiits,  and  tlie  news  was  commnnicated  with  apparent  truthfulness. 

Ho  savs  of  tlie  chief  tliat  he  seemed  an  honest  old  fellow,  delighted 

with  his  new  koh-lu-na  friend,  and  frequently  and  cordially 

callina'  out  to  him,  ^^3Ian-nin-too-))ie.^'*     The  Franklin  relics 

obtained    from    him    included   a    mahogany    barometer-case, 

P         spoons,  forks,  and  a  number  of  other  small  articles.f 

But  other  news  received  from  these  strangers  was  any- 
thing but  gratifying.  It 
effectually  barred  further 
progress  to  King  Will- 
liam's  Land  for  the  year 
1866.  The  first  words  to 
Nu-ker-^hoo,  MammarJi,  and 
A7'-mou  told  the  loss  of 
their  friends  and  relatives 
some  years  before  by  starv- 
ation, murder,  and  canni- 
balism. This  was  followed 
by  such  accounts  of  the 
KK.  dangers  awaiting  them  if 
they  went  on  to  Pelly  Bay  and  Ook-goo-lik,  as  to  throw  a  damper  on  the 
u  h<ih'  part}-  except  Hall  himself.  The  old  chief  said  that  a  very  old  and 
iiilinn  man  on  removing  to  Ook-goo-lik  had  been  immediately  mur- 
dered witli  Ills  whole  family:  that  very  recently  there  had  been  fights 
aiiiniio  tlie  Xeit-tce-lik  Innuits  for  a  woman,  and  one  of  them  had  been 

•Tin-  iii<aiiiiiji<il'iliis  word  i^s  not  ^venhy  Hall;  iioristhatof  Ma-my-too-mig-tey-ina(p.256.) 
t  AftiTwanl  donated  by  Hall  t(»  iIih  Siuithsoiiiaii  Institution,  and  in  1870  placed  for  the 
IniK-d  Stat«-M  Naval  Oliwrvatory  in  their  Aretic  exhiliit  in  the  Government  Ituildiiifj  at  the  Cen- 
tennial Kxliiliition,  Philadelphia. 


FltANKI.lX  Hr.I.les  WITH  HALL  S  PEXHOLDEl 


April,  1»66.J 


Discoura(jui<j  Neivs. 


25!) 


killed  to  get  Ill's  wife  ;  that  some  of  tlic;  i'clK-  Vr.ix  natives  wli<>  wore 
without  wives,  and  who  were  being  aided  by  the  friends  in  their 
attempts  to  steal  wives  from  tlieir  hiis])ands,  would  certainly  carry  off 
Mam-mark;  aud  that  he  himself  was  leaving  his  own  countr}'  for  Re- 
pulse Bay  through  fear  especially  f-  —  'i 
of  the  See-nee-mee-utes.  He  added 
that  he  had  given  this  information 
chiefly  because  of  his  friendship 
in  past  times  for  the  parents  of 
Ou-e-Ia,  Nii-ker-.iJioo,  and  others,  ^B 
and  his  promise  to  keep  a  good  look  B 
out  for  any  of  their  children,  if 
he  should  ever  find  them  anywhere 
near  the  See-nee-me-utes.  Three 
men  of  Kok-lee-arng-nun's  party,  one 
by  one  confirmed  all  that  tlieir 
chief  had  said  of  the  bad  state  of 
affairs  among  the  natives  northward  siLVEitFoKic  and  spoons  (ikankun  kklicsI. 
and  westward,  and  added  that  since  a  recent  fight  about  a  deposit, 
in  which  the  See-nee-mee-utes  had  lost  two  men  by  the  Neit-tee-liks, 
they  were  burning  to  wreak  vengeance  on  somebod3\ 

Two  of  these  Pell}^  Bay  men  told  of  their  own  visit,  two  years 
before,  to  Ki-ki-tung  (King  William's  Land),  on  which  they  had 
remained  a  short  time.  1  hey  })ointed  out  on  Rae's  chart  exactly  the 
course  they  took  in  going  and  returning  direct  from  the  upper  part  of 
Pelly  Bay  overland  to  Spence  Bay,  and  thence  across  the  ice  to  Ki-ki- 
tung,  passing  the  south  point  of  Matty  Island,  and  thence  northwest ; — 
for  sealing.     When  Hall  questioned  these  two  men  as  to  any  ships 


2(i0  The  Pelly  Bay  Natives   Unfriendly.  r April,  iseo. 

havino-  been  seen  on  the  north  or  west  of  Ki-ki-tung,  they  pointed 
ao-ain  on  Rae's  chart  to  Cape  Victoria,  and  said  that,  a  few  years  before, 
many  Innuits  had  seen  a  ship  near  there  from  which  kob-lu-nas  and 
sledsres  had  come  down  from  the  south. 

This  information  was  again  interesting,  but  its  communication  was 
soon  followed  by  some  acts  of  the  new-comers  themselves  toward 
Hall's  people,  which  not  only  decided  but  hastened  his  setting  out 
on  the  return  for  Repulse  Bay.  They  seemed  to  have  easily  intimi- 
dated Ebierbing,  Nu-ker-zhoo,  and  others;  getting  from  them  some  of 
their  best  dogs,  weapons,  and  tools,  and,  a  day  or  two  after,  inviting 
them  to  plays — boxing,  wrestling,  and  knife-testing — an  invitation  from 
which  Hall  dissuaded  them  at  the  advice  of  Too-koo-li-too,  who  said 
there  was  danger  of  fighting  and  murder.  She  had  been  made 
aware  of  their  custom  of  introducing  a  short,  sharp-pointed  bone  inside 
of  their  mittens,  so  that,  when  boxing  with  these,  they  may  strike  a 
Repulse  Bay  native,  if  possible,  on  the  side  of  the  head  near  the 
eye : — a  deathblow  struck  in  play.  They  then  proceeded  to  carry  out  a 
grand  an-koot-ing,  in  the  course  of  which  their  an-ge-ko  gave  a  reply 
from  the  Spirit  that  Too-koo-li-too's  sick  babe  should  be  given  to 
them  :  a  ruse,  as  Hall  notes,  to  obtain  further  gifts.  He  came  un- 
willingly to  the  conclusion  that  his  own  party  lacked  the  nerve  needed 
for  any  risk  which  might  occur  in  going  forward,  although  Nu-ker-zhoo 
liad  for  himself  protested  that  he  was  not  afraid.  With  a  sad  heart, 
"disappointed  but  not  discoui*aged,"  he  prepared  for  his  return;  yet 
making  the  resolve  that  he  would  endeavor,  in  the  following  year,  to 
organize  a  party  of  four  or  five  white  men,  with  whom,  together  with 
Ar-mou,  Nu-ker-zhoo,  and  Ebierbing,  he  would  again  come  over  this 
route  and  ivach   King  William's   Land.     For  that  journey  he  would 


May,  J 866.]  Holl  Compelled  to  Return.  261 

now  make  a  deposit  of  expedition  stores  at  Cape  Weynton.  His  notes 
of  this  day  contain  these  words :  "  Thanks  be  to  God,  I  liave  yet  the 
heart  to  persevere  in  what  I  have  taken  upon  myself  to  do :  to  reach 
King  William's  Land,  and  there  finish  the  mission  that  I  am  on.  Ob- 
stacle after  obstacle  has  yet  to  be  overcome  before  I  shall  triumph, 
but  by  the  aid  of  High  Heaven  I  will  yet  succeed." 

The  RETURN  JOURNEY  could  be  expected  to  bring  but  httle  of 
special  interest  or  of  an  experience  differing  from  that  so  recently 
passed  through ;  the  route  followed,  as  will  appear  by  the  map  (Chap- 
ter XIH),  was  nearly  the  same;  the  Pelly  Bay  men  traveled  in  Hall's 
company  until  the  19tli  of  the  month,  and  then  fell  back  to  repair 
damages  to  their  sleds.  On  the  5th,  both  companies  made  their  start 
for  Repulse  Bay,  presenting  a  singular  and  grotesque  appearance  with 
all  their  sledges,  teams  of  dogs,  men,  women,  and  children ;  the  latter, 
of  all  ages  and  sizes,  from  infants  in  hoods  to  half-grown  boys  and 
girls.  The  sledge  now  driven  by  Nu-ker-zhoo  was  a  relic  of  Sir 
John  Ross's  vessel,  the  Victory ;  the  runners,  about  1 2  feet  in  length, 
being  made  of  a  part  of  one  of  her  masts  which  had  been  found,  many 
years,  ago  in  the  ice  near  the  entrance  to  Pelly  Bay. 

The  day  following,  the  stores  for  the  next  proposed  journey  to 
King  William's  Land  were  deposited  in  two  places  close  to  Cape  Weyn- 
ton, the  second  deposit  being  that  of  a  large  trunk  at  a  point  near  a 
cache  once  made  by  Dr.  Rae ;  an  accurate  list  of  all  these  stores  appears 
in  the  notes.  K  tent  given  to  Hall  by  Captain  Kilmer  of  the  Black 
Eagle,  was  spread  over  the  articles,  and  then  ponderous  stones  were 
piled  above,  and  the  bearings  of  the  two  deposits  from  prominent 
neighboring  points  carefully  recorded.     Wliile  making  these  caches, 


2<i2  The  Journey  Bach  to  Fort  Hope.  [May,  isee. 

li  water  sky  was  clearly  seen  by  all  the  company  underneath  the  dark 
nimbus  clouds,  East  Northeast. 

The  traveling-  on  the  7th  was  under  the  disadvantage  of  a  snow- 
squall,  which  overtook  them  at  noon.  The  lead  was  taken  by 
the  Pell}"  Bay  natives.  As  soon  as  Hall  came  up  with  old  Kok-lee- 
ar)ig-)tan  (a  cripple),  he  took  him  and  Too-koo-li-too  on  his  own 
sledge,  and  walked  by  their  side.  Too-koo-li-too  had  with  her  as 
g-ifts  from  the  strange  natives,  tw^o  pairs  of  scissors,  a  cap-box,  and 
some  shot  that  came  from  Ross's  Victory,  done  up  in  the  skin  of  a 
deer's  heart.  The  distance  made  before  2.15  p.  m.  was  almost  the 
same  with  that  of  the  30tli  of  April  on  going  up.  A  prominent  group 
of  hills,  called  Kig-loo-a-te,  was  seen  bearing  south  72°  west  from  the 
forty-third  encampment,  and  other  high  land  called  Shoung-noo-gua 
to  the  nortlnvest ;  a  ravine  divides  the  two.  The  higli  land  extends 
back  nearly  a  mile  from  the  low  coast.  The  temperature  was  now 
much  higher;  the  thermometer,  hanging  on  the  shady  side  of  the  sledge 
and  affected  by  reflection,  read  36°.  All  day,  the  snow  was  deep  and 
soft,  and  the  ice  completely  worn  off  from  the  shoeing  of  the  sledges, 
so  tliat  scarcely  two  miles  an  liour  on  the  average  could  be  made. 

Tlie  coast-line  was  more  closely  followed  on  the  travel  of  the  8th 
and  Htli,  and  was  found  to  be  very  irregular  and  generally  low.  At 
<.>iie  point  a  ridge  composed  of  sand,  clay,  and  shingle  only  4^  feet  in 
heijrht  1» Miked  to  those  travelino-  on  the  sea-ice  "like  a  considerable 
mount."*  l-"rom  Ca})e  Weynton  to  Cape  Lady  Pelly,  this  low  land, 
mostly  consisting  of  frozen  mud,  was  without  snow,  and  appeared 
to  have  Ijcen  so  tln-ough  the  winter;  some  patches  having  thawed, 
loniiin^'-  soft  imid.  In  tlic  frozen  mud  were  many  fossils,  of  which 
Ar-inoa  brougiit  in  Ironi  his  took-too  hunt  a  fine  lot,  and  the  wife  of  the 


may,  isoG.i  KUlh/f/  Manuots.  263 

old  chief  emptied  out  on  tli<^  sled  aimndxT  from  lier  full  mittens;  ITall 
had  instrneted  all  the  Inmiits  to  bring-  to  him  all  eui'ions-looking 
things  whenever  they  saw  them. 

Little  provision  remained  on  hand.  He  gave  out  his  unpalatable 
damaged  Marshall  sausage-meat  for  breakfast,  and,  a\  hile  he  ate  of  the 
same  food,  he  was  glad  to  find  that  his  plan  succeeded,  for  a  couple  of  the 
unwiUing  Innuits  now  promptly  started  off  for  iool-ioo.  He  gives  a  racy 
account  of  the  taking  of  some  six-ics  (marmots),  Ebierbing,  while 
the  Pelly  Bay  Innuits  intensely  watched  him,  three  times  in  succession 
missed  the  little  animal,  though  using  Hall's  best  rifle.  The  creature 
sat  by  his  hole  without  fright  all  the  time,  except  at  the  first  shot 
when  it  went  into  his  hole,  but  was  quickly  out  again.  At  another 
hunt,  Nu-lcer-zlioo,  Ebierbing,  and  ^r-wwi(  were  all  out  with  rifles;  but, 
after  their  firing  three  shots,  six-y  darted  into  his  hole  and  was  in- 
stantly out  again ;  one  minute  later,  another  shot,  and  six-y  was  again 
out,  as  if  saying  ''Kill  me,  if  you  can."  The  Pelly  Bay  natives  laughed 
at  the  weapons  used;  for  with  a  simple  string  having  a  slip-noose — 
sometimes  made  of  the  end  of  a  whip-lash — they  readily  caught  a 
number  of  these  little  animals,  one  of  which  made  a  good  meal  for 
a  man.  See-xmng-er,  one  of  the  Pelly  Bay  men,  came  in  at  midday  on 
the  0th,  and,  sticking  his  thumb  and  fingers  straight  out,  showed 
his  answer  to  the  question  how  many  he  had  killed  and  the  bites 
he  had  received.  The  wife  of  KoJi-Iee-amy-nim  also  showed  three 
six-ies  slung  on  her  back;  she  had  caught  them  by  a  "slijj-a- 
noose"  at  their  holes.  But  the  stock  of  provisions  was  still  short; 
the  company  at  times  could  take  but  one  meal  a  day,  with  the 
addition  of  a  small  bit  of  whale-beef,  the  dog-food.  A  crow  which 
had  come  very  close  to  the  traveling  party  escaped  l)oth  the  dogs  and 


264  Fossils  in  the  Clay  and  Sand-Hills.  [May,  isee. 

rifle-shots.  An  owl  had  the  same  happy  deliverance,  but  a  few  part- 
ridges were  secured.  At  night  in  the  kom-motig — pemmican-soup,  with 
Borden  biscuit,  refreshed  all  except  Too-koo-li-too,  who,  on  account  of 
lier  sick  child,  was  allowed  by  her  superstitious  friends  to  eat  bread 
only. 

On  the  two  days  that  followed,  success  in  the  deer-hunt  re-sup- 
plied the  company  with  fresh  meat,  and  the  dogs  received  something, 
although  but  little  and  that  of  "not  much  more  account  than  sawdust- 
pudding";  the  supply  for  seventeen  animals  being  only  two  deer- 
paunches.  But  they  had  stolen  seal-blubber  and  whale-meat  from  the 
sledges  while  they  were  loading  up,  in  spite  of  unmerciful  poundings 
with  big  sticks  and  clubs. 

On  the  11th,  when  the  party  came  near  Rae's  ''Point  Hargrave," 
Hall  left  the  sledges,  and  ascending  the  point,  found  its  height  to  be 
about  75  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  that  it  was  a  hill  of 
rock  (granite  and  gneiss,  as  Rae  has  recorded  it),  having  on  its  eastern 
side  a  small  inclined  plane  leading  from  the  coast  up  to  a  gap  on  the 
ridge.  From  the  top  of  the  hill.  Cape  Lady  Pelly  and  the  land  on  the 
east  side  of  the  sea  of  Ak-koo-lee  were  plainly  visible.  At  7.15  p.  m., 
having  made  scarcely  more  than  a  mile  an  hour  on  a  course  south- 
west from  this  point,  he  rested  for  the  night,  making  his  forty-fifth 
encampment  on  a  sand-plain  covered  with  very  dirty  snow.  The  after- 
noon route  had  been  one  of  perplexing  difficulties  in  making  any  head- 
way with  tlie  loaded  sledges,  but  the  discovery  of  clay  and  sand  hills 
of  a  most  interesting  character,  containing  stores  of  valuable  fossils  of 
inimmerable  kinds,  well  repaid  him  for  the  outlay  of  liunian  and  dog 
muscle  tlifif  li;i(l  been  expended  in  getting  through  the  labyrinth  of 
this  "iiiiid  ;iii(l  lossil  city,"  as  he  hastily  called  the  place.     On  getting 


May,  J 866.1  Death  of  Too-koo-U-too' s  Bale.  205 

through  these  fossil  hills  and  returning-  to  his  iffloo,  ho  found  that 
Nu-ker-zJioo  had  put  within  it  all  the  deer  he  had  killed;  a  most  kindly 
act,  done  without  even  a  hint.  It  was  another  gratiiication  to  learn 
that  his  own  black  dog  had  added  eight  pups  to  their  live  stock. 

On  the  13th,  the  long-expected  death  of  Too-koo-li-too's  child, 
Little  King  William,  took  place.  The  almost  distracted  mother,  the 
moment  she  found  that  it  was  really  dead,  rushed  out  of  the  igloo, 
pressing  the  dead  baby  to  her  bosom  and  pouring  out  her  soul's  deep 
grief.  Her  leaving  the  igloo  so  quickly  was  in  accordance  with  Innuit 
custom ;  for  if  this  is  not  done  when  any  one  dies  in  it,  everything 
within  becomes  worthless.  Tn  this  case  it  was  considered  that  the 
mother  went  out  soon  enough,  so  that  the  bedding  and  everything 
else  need  not  be  thrown  away.  In  ten  minutes  she  returned  and 
took  her  seat  on  the  bed-platform,  grieving  for  a  very  long  time  as  a 
loving  mother  only  grieves.  At  lengtli  she  was  persuaded  by  Mam- 
mark  to  let  the  dead  babe  be  taken  from  her  bosom  and  wrapped 
in  a  small  furred  took-too  skin.  Mam-mark  insisted  that,  according 
to  the  custom  of  her  people,  the  remains  must  be  buried  at  once  ; 
but,  on  Hall's  remonstrating  and  urging  that  they  should  be  kept  till 
at  least  the  next  day,  a  compromise  was  made,  and  the  child  that  died 
at  25  minutes  past  1  p.  m.  was  buried  at  6.30.  The  remains  had 
been  dressed  in  a  suit  of  young  took-too  furs,  made  by  the  mother  the 
winter  before  They  were  now  wrapped  in  a  blanket  of  took-too  skin 
of  long  fur,  tied  witli  thongs,  and  having  a  loop  in  it  to  go  over  the 
neck  of  the  mother,  who  must  carry  the  corpse.  A  hole  having  been 
cut  through  the  wall  of  the  igloo  for  the  procession  of  four  persons  in 
single  file,  Hall,  Mam-mark,  the  bereft  mother  with  the  babe  suspended 
from  her  neck,  and  the  father  following  close,  proceeded  to  the  ])lace 


20(5  Burial  of  the  Bahe.  [May,  1866. 

(•1   burial  on  a  little  liill,  which  Hall  had  selected.     Before  the  remains 

Avere  laid  in  the  grave,  he  wrote  out  the  following-  record  : 

Tlie.sf  are  the  mortal  reiiiains  of  I>ittle  King  William,  the  only  child  of 
Ehierbing  and  Too  koo  li  too,  the  inter])reters  of  the  last  Franklin  Research  Ex- 
j.cdition.  Deposited  here  May  13,  ISOO,  the  day  of  its  death.  God  hath  its  soul 
now  and  will  keej)  it  from  all  harm. — C.  F.  Hall,  Maij  14,  ISGG. 

This  he  placed  within  the  fur  cap  covering-  the  head  of  the  child, 
and  returning  next  day  to  the  g-rave,  he  erected  near  it  a  monument  of 
five  stones,  three  at  the  base — typical  of  Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity — 
and  on  these  the  two  others,  forming  the  figure  of  a  cross 

At  the  burial,  though  it  was  blowing  a  gale  and  a  snow-drift  was 
flying,  the  mother  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  wear  he.r  double 
jacket  to  i)rotect  herself  from  the  storm.  "  She  must  needs  comply 
with  custom."  Under  the  same  influence,  she  had  already  borne  for 
some  days  the  inconvenience  of  wet  feet;  neither  could  her  wet  stock- 
ings be  dried,  nor  the  rips  in  her  l)oots  repaired.  It  w^as  little  comfort 
to  her.  a  lew  days  after,  to  be  told  by  Mam-marh  and  Nu-ker-zhoo  that 
the  child  would  have  lived,  as  the  "  Spirit"  had  said  to  the  an-ge-ko,  if 
she  had  not  consented,  by  Hall's  advice,  to  receive  it  back  from  Nu- 
hcr-zhoda  wife,  or  if  she  had  not  departed  from  the  customs  of  the  In- 
nuits  in  the  matter  of  her  daily  living.  She  renewed  her  subjection  to 
the  customs  of  the  people,  and  received  their  instractions,  that  for  one 
year  her  husband  and  herself  must  be  very  careful  wdiat  they  should 
eat,  and  tliat  tln^  same  be  not  raw;  and  her  husband  began  his  compli- 
ance NN  ith  such  instructions  by  pleading  the  death  of  his  child  as  for- 
biddinii-  him  to  carry  on  his  usual  daily  duties  even  in  the  matter  of 
j)reparing  the  amnniiiition  necessary  for  the  hunt.  Hall  says  here  that 
probably  none  of  tin;  Eskimo  tribes  are  cursed  with  so  many  ridicidous 
cust.»ms  as  the  l^'cpidse  liay  and  Ig-loo-lik  people. 


iTiny,  i8««.j  Encampment  near  North  Pole  LaLe.  267 

The  17th  was  a  very  warm  (hiy,  the  theriiioineter  reacliin"-  38°, 
although  no  sun  appeared ;  the  upper  ^^'alls  of  the  kom-mongs  fell  in, 
and  made  necessary  the  erection  of  tent-coverings  overhead.  Th(3  day 
following,  the  snow  melting  as  it  fell,  prevented  the  [)arty  from  resum- 
ing their  return  journey.  The  shoeing  of  the  sledges  also  was  found 
entirely  thawed  off  during  the  night.  In  the  morning  Hall  found  that 
one  of  his  pups  had  been  suffocated  by  its  mother  lying  ujjon  it,  and 
that,  failing  to  lick  it  into  life,  she  had  eaten  it  for  her  breakfast.  On 
the  19th,  he  found  she  had  repeated  the  act,  a  few  bloody  sj)<)t.s 
only  remaining  to  tell  the  tale.  This  left  him  but  five  of  the  litter, 
the  birth  of  which  had  given  him  hope  of  efficient  aid  on  his  next 
journey.  He  had  to  handle  this  mother  black  dog  and  her  })ups  him- 
self, as  the  Innuits,  through  some  superstitious  notions,  were  unwill- 
ing to  feed  or  to  harness  them. 

At  8  15  p.  m.  of  this  day  the  party  began  a  further  advance,  jjre- 
ferring  to  travel  at  night,  and  averaging  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour, 
until  twenty  minutes  past  midnight.  On  leaving  the  small  lake  on 
which  they  had  made  their  thirty-fifth  encampment,  April  19,  deviat- 
ing now  from  the  route  of  that  date,  they  crossed  a  bluff  the  descent 
of  which  being  very  abrupt  was  swifth^  made  by  the  loaded  sledges 
themselves,  when  the  teams,  which  had  been  doubled  up  for  the 
ascent,  were  successfully  detached.  On  the  21st,  the  party  got 
back  as  far  as  the  Lower  Narrows,  heretofore  noticed  as  a  deer-cross- 
ing, and  on  the  22d,  they  made  the  forty-ninth  encampment  on  the 
same  spot  between  Christie  and  North  Pole  Lake  which  they  had 
occupied  on  the  5th  of  April.  At  this  place  See-pung-er  arrived, 
to  the  surprise  of  all,  with  his  fomily.  He  had  been  working  hard  to 
rejoin   the  party  since  being  separated  from  them  at  the  fort}-sixtli 


268  Arrival  at  Beacon  Hill.  [May,  isee. 

encampment.  His  sled  was  found  to  be  very  heavily  loaded;  for, 
besides  his  household  goods,  it  had  on  it  two  cumbrous  ki-a  frames, 
one  of  which  was  made  entirely  from  a  boat  of  the  Franklin  Expedi- 
tion, and  the  sledge  itself  from  a  mast  of  Captain  Ross's  "  Victory." 
In  the  midst  of  a  howling  storm,  he  was  promptly  supplied  with 
an  armful  of  took-too  meat.  The  next  day,  in  company  with  Nuker- 
zlioo  and  his  family,  he  again  left  Hall  for  a  time. 

On  the  23d,  the  journey  down  the  North  Pole  Lake  was  made 
swiftly  by  the  use  of  a  tent  for  a  sail  to  the  sledges,  assisting  the  poor 
hungry  dogs;  the  sled  itself  sometimes  getting  in  advance  of  them. 
Ebierbing  and  She-mik-shoo  traveled  beside  the  sledge  to  guide  it. 
Durino-  the  evening-,  from  three  and  a  half  to  four  miles  an  hour  were 
made  by  sail  only,  and  at  fifteen  minutes  past  8  a.  m.  of  the  24th,  Hall 
revisited  his  boat  Sylvia  and  his  stores  deposited  at  the  base  of  Beacon 
Hill,  March  31st,  and  to  the  record  he  had  then  placed  on  the  Sylvia  on 
leaving  this  point,  he  now  added  an  inscription  summing  up  the  obstacles 
met  witli  on  the  journey  and  his  plans  for  renewing  it.  He  had  the  satis- 
faction to  find  that  Ou-e-la  had  been  faithful  to  his  promise  of  that 
date,  to  take  from  the  hill  the  half-barrel  containing  the  records,  and 
I)rotect  them  from  any  strange  Innuits.  It  seemed  plain  from  the 
snow-tracks  that  some  of  Ou-e-la's  friends  had  been  recently  at  the  hill, 
;iii<1  Ar-tiiou  went  off  to  find  him. 

'J  he  notes  of  the  25th  read  thus  : 

To  (lay  my  King  William  party  was  ended,  for  the  present  at  least.  This, 
of  coiiise,  wan  in  correspondence  to  the  natural  course  of  i)assiug  events.  Our 
wjjaration  wa.s,  however,  for  this  reason :  1  desire  to  remain  here  a  few  days, 
and  tiy  and  do  .some  writing,  recounting  the  im])ortaut  mattm-  1  have  gained 
of  the  I'clly  iJay  natives  relative  to  Sir  John  Franklin's  Ex]H'<lition,  Ebier- 
bing, Too-koo-li-too,  Mam-mark,  and  her  little  son  remaining  here  with  me.     On 


inay,  1 866. J  Hall  wUl  Rcnew  his  Journey  269 

tlie  return  of  the  successful  tooJc-too  party  of  this  day,  I  invittd  ;ill  iln-  nun 
into  my  Icom-mong,  and  there  I  served  each  with  moderati'  drinks  of  capital  iuhhI 
Bourbon  whisky.  We  talked,  smoked,  and  drank— talked,  smoked,  and  drank 
till  every  heart  felt  that  it  should  be  friendly  to  everybody.  One  matter  is 
worthy  of  record :  all  the  men  of  my  party  are  still  determined  to  accompany  me 
next  si)ring-,  when  I  purpose  to  try  again. 

It  would  seem,  however,  that  this  last  statement  was  directly 
against  the  experience  of  the  5th  of  the  month  which  lias  been  re- 
corded ;  for,  on  that  day,  every  one  of  Hall's  companions  except 
Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too  had  insisted  on  his  return.  Nu-her-zhoo 
(Jack)  particularly  had  shown  the  white  feather  even  while  standing- 
before  Hall,  boasting  of  his  courage ;  and  it  will  be  found  in  the  story 
of  the  year  1869,  that  when  Hall  first  succeeded  in  reaching  King  Wil- 
liam's Land,  this  man,  when  the  whole  company  were  well  armed, 
was  again  much  alarmed  at  the  first  sight  of  strange  Innuits.  Hall 
certainly  found  each  of  the  tribes  hostile  and  apprehensive — mutually 
fearing  and  feared.  Before  setting  out  on  this  journey,  his  party  had 
more  than  once  spoken  of  the  See-ne-mee-utes — the  natives  of  "xSee- 
wee,"  near  Cape  Berens — as  being  a  party  of  murderous  fellows ;  their 
way  of  greeting  a  stranger*  being  to  present  a  long  knife  seemingly  as 
a  gift,  but  allowed  accidentally  to  slip  into  his  breast.  (See  page  277.) 
That  a  fight  was  not  in  some  like  way  begun  by  the  Felly  Bay  men 
on  their  meeting  with  Hall's  company,  seems  to  have  been  owing  to 
their  having  learned  from  Too-koo-li-too  about  the  ships  in  the  bay — 
Hall's  friends. 

*  The  customs  of  the  Eskimos  of  Cumberland  Inlet  in  this,  as  reported  by  Mr.  L.  Kumlien, 
of  the  recent  Howgate  Expedition,  seem  less  dangerous,  but  equally  strange : 

"When  a  stranger  arrives  at  an  encampment,  the  Ancoot  and  the  stranger  face  one  an- 
other. Both  have  mittens  of  seal-skin.  The  stranger  complacently  folds  his  arms  over  his 
breast,  and  inclines  bis  bead  to  one  side,  so  as  fully  to  expose  his  cheek,  while  the  Ancoot  deals 
him  a  terrible  blow  on  it,  sometimes  felling  him  to  the  ground.  The  two  actors  now  change 
parts,  and  it  becomes  the  stranger's  turn  to  strike,  which  he  does  with  a  vengeance.  The  two 
then  kiss  each  other,  the  ceremony  is  over,  and  due  hospitality  is  shown  to  the  stranger  by  all. 


HAPTER 


JOURNEYS  AROUND  REPULSE  BAY,  SUMMER-LIFE,  AND 

THIRD   WINTER. 


JUNE,  1866,  TO  FEBRUARY,  1867. 


CHAPTER  IX 


Conditions  necessaky  for  a  new  journey — Experience  with  the  natives  of  Pelly  Bay — 
Arrival  of  the  tribe  at  E-nook-shoo-lik — Hall  goes  out  to  meet  tiiem — Reception 
OF  THEIR  an-ge-ko— Their  story  of  the  white  man's  monument  at  Shar-too— The 

TIN  cup  with  paper  IN  IT  WHICH  WAS  THROWN  AWAY — THE  SKELETONS  BY  THE  MONU- 
MENT— The  SUPERSTITIONS  OF  THESE  PEOPLE — HaLL  ACCUSED  OF  BRINGING  SICKNESS 
AMONG  THEM — ThE  HANGING  OF  THE  OLD  CHIEF  AND  HIS  WIFE  BY  THEIR  SON  "tO  TAKE 
THEM  TO  THE  HAPPY  LAND" — HaLL  KEEPS  THE  PEACE  BETWEEN  THE   PeLLY  BaY  AND  THE 

Eepulse  Bay  natives— Settles  some  old  feuds  in  his  tupik — His  sledge  journeys 

FOR  survey  of  the  BAY — EMBARRASSMENTS  IN  HIS  WORK — DEATH   OF   OU-E-LA'S  WIFE — 

Ill-treatment  of  women — Arrival  of  the  whalers — Hall  requests  them  to  spare 

MEN  FROM  their  CREWS  FOR  HIS  NEXT  JOURNEY — HiS  ASSISTANCE  TO  THE  CAPTAINS— TlIK 
SHIPS  DECIDE  TO  WINTER  IN  THE  BAY— HaLL  ENCAMPS  NEAR  THEM  IN  NOVEMBER— INTER- 
COURSE THROUGH  THE  WINTER — THI'^  CAPTAINS  WILL  NOT  LET  THE  InNUITS  FURNISH  HIM 
WITH  DOGS. 

"Disappointed  but  not  discouraged"; — yet  Hall,  when  writing 
this,  had  a  full  consciousness  that  at  least  nine  months  must  be 
passed  before  he  could  set  his  face  again  toward  Ki-ki-tuk  for  the 
Records.  He  had  turned  back  from  Colvile  Bay,  as  has  been  noted, 
with  the  words  above,  written  down  in  his  notes  in  sorrow,  butAvitli  an 
unbroken  purpose.  The  experience  of  the  sledge  journey  had  satis- 
fied him  that  he  nmst  try  to  organize  his  party  more  wisely,  if  he 
would  secure  even  partial  success ;  and  he  looked  forward  with  the 
hope  of  obtaining  assistance  for  this  from  the  whalers  when  they 
should  come  into  the  bay.  The  alternatives  before  him  were  either  to 
S.  Ex.  27 18  27:i 


274  Plans  for  the  Ne.rt  Year.  ijunc,  isee. 

gain  this  lielp  or  to  return  with  them  to  the  United  States.     But  the 
hitter  of  tliese  is  not  named  in  the  journals  of  that  season. 

For  a  renewed  advance  he  had  fully  decided  that  he  must  have 
the  services  of  several  armed  white  men  as  a  guard,  and  he  knew  as 
well  that  he  must  secure  full  provision  for  a  long"  journey  and  at  least 
one  good  dog-team.  To  procure  the  dogs  might  prove  to  be  his  hardest 
work.  For  either  one  or  both  of  these  objects,  he  would  be  dependent 
on  the  further  continuance  of  good-will  between  himself  and  the  Re- 
})iilse  Bay  natives  and  between  them  and  the  Pelly  Ba}^  men;  for,  as 
these  men  had  already  caused  his  own  Eskimos  to  turn  back  at  the  very 
point  from  which  he  had  been  ready  to  cross  to  King  William's  Land, 
it  was  clear  that,  even  if  no  hostile  attack  were  made,  the  same  intimi- 
dations brought  to  bear  upon  any  new  party  might  arrest  its  work. 
Among  the  Neitchilles  a  guard  might  be  a  necessity. 

Tliat  the  Pelly  Bay  men  were,  as  Mam-marh  had  told  him,  ''a 
queer  people,  doing  many  strange  things,"  came  out  very  plainly  in 
their  intercourse  from  the  day  of  their  again  meeting  wdth  Hall  and 
his  natives.  See-jJung-er,  who  had  been  the  first  to  overtake  the 
return  party  on  their  journey,  was  quickly  the  occasion  of  an  appre- 
hension that  he  would  bring  out  an  old  feud  with  them ;  for  no 
sooner  had  he  met  with  his  first  success  in  the  use  of  a  gun,  than  he 
was  heard  to  say  it  would  be  a  good  thing  to  kill  Innuits  with  as  well 
as  deer.  He  proved  to  be  a  careless  fellow,  too,  in  using  the  weapon, 
and  Ibill  felt  sure  tliat  if  his  men  could  prevent  it,  See-pung-er  would 
never  ])<■  allowed  to  carry  it  back  to  his  own  country. 

The  rest  of  the  Pell}'  Ba}-  men  were  willingly  delayed  some  time 
on  tlicir  jdiinicy  by  a  long  nuisk-ox  hunt.  Their  coming  down  to 
F-ii()(.k->li<M)-lik,    when;    Hall   inad(!  his  fifty-second  encampment,   on 


June,  1866.]  The  Pelly  Bay  Natives  Arrive.  275 

the  10th  of  June,  excited  new  fears.  lie  had  come  over  from  his 
quiet  rest  at  Fort  Hope,  where  lie  had  much  desired  to  make  up  tlie 
the  notes  of  liis  kite  sledge  journey,  because  the  Innuits  had  repre- 
sented that  they  must  move  nearer  the  whaling  grounds  before  the 
disappearance  of  the  snow  and  ice  should  take  from  them  the  means  of 
transporting  their  boats  and  sledges.  To  be  at  hand  for  the  capture 
of  whales  was  also  what  he  most  desired  for  himself,  in  order  to 
further  his  plans  for  securing  the  services  of  the  white  men. 

A  few  days  after  his  coming  down,  an  alarm  was  given  that 
strangers  were  seen  in  the  distance,  and  Oong-oo-too,  harnessing  up 
his  dogs,  drove  Hall  rapidly  over  the  sea-ice  to  meet  them.  At  11  p. 
m.  they  were  found  at  a  time  when  in  trouble  at  crossing  a  fissure 
in  the  ice ;  their  driver,  taking  Hall's  advice  to  pull  his  dogs  back 
from  the  slush  in  which  they  were  plunging,  crossed  over  readily  a 
little  nearer  the  encampment.  The  old  chief  Koh-lee-arng-nun  and 
his  followers  renewed  cordial  greetings  with  Hall's  part}^  Their 
teams  were  joined  and  sledges  formed  in  line,  and  a  triple  team  fol- 
lowed into  E-nook-shoo-lik  b}^  a  motley  group,  made  up  of  sixteen  men, 
women,  and  children.  The  IivilllU  women  then  marclied  up  singly 
behind  the  Pelly  Bay  an-ge-lco,  and  hung,  each,  some  odd  article,  as  a 
bead,  a  piece  of  took-too  fringe,  or  an  old  razor  upon  his  jacket ;  the 
an-r/e-ko  himself  raising  his  eyes  solemnly  upward  and  now  and  then 
extending  his  risrht  arm.  Each  Innuit  took  one  or  more  of  the 
strangers  into  his  tupiJc,  Hall  having  for  his  guest  his  old  friend  KoJ:- 
lee-arng-nun;  after  which,  festivities  followed  during  some  days,  includ- 
ing a  mock  musk-ox  hunt,  in  which  men  and  boys,  wearing  the  skins 
of  the  animals,  were  fiercely  hunted  by  other  men  and  dogs. 

But   throughout   the  reception,  each  of  the  Pelly  Bay  men  had 


276  See-pung-er'' s  Story.  [junc,  iscc. 

kept  full  ill  sight  the  long  knife  which  he  had  shown  at  their  first 
meeting.  An  old  quarrel  between  See-pung-er  and  Oti-e-Ia,  which  had 
once  nearly  cost  Oii-c-la  his  life,  and  another  between  old  See-gar  and 
Kol;-lee-arng-nim,  were  still  unsettled.  It  could  not  then  be  known 
at  what  moment  an  outbreak  might  occur,  although  Ou-e-la  was  at  the 
time  absent,  lie  had  just  lost  one  of  his  wives,  and  knew  that  No.  2 
was  near  her  death.  It  was  all-important  for  Hall  to  keep  the  peace. 
He  had  already  learned  something  of  value  connected  with  the  Frank- 
lin records  from  See-pung-er  and  his  wife,  and  he  hoped  to  learn  much 
more  from  others  of  KoJt-lee-arng-nim^s  party. 

See-pung-er^  three  years  before,  had  visited  King  William's  Land. 
He  told  Hall  that  he  had  seen,  near  Shar-too,  not  far  from  Pelly  Bay, 
a  very  high  and  singular  E-nool'-slwo-yer  (monument),  built  by  kob- 
h(-)ias,  of  stones,  and  having  on  its  top  a  piece  of  wood  something 
like  a  hand  pointing  in  a  certain  direction.  He  had  also  seen  a  monu- 
ment about  the  height  of  a  tall  man,  at  another  point  somewhere 
between  Poil  Parry  and  Cape  Sabine.  When  asked  whether  he  had 
thrown  this  pile  down,  he  answered,  "Only  enough  of  it  to  find  some- 
thing within."  And  when  further  closely  questioned,  he  said  that 
what  he  found  was  the  small  tin-cup  which  he  had  just  given  to  Too- 
koo-li-too ;  that  a  tight  top  had  fitted  it ;  and  that  it  was  thickly  and 
tightly  wrapped  up  and  tied,  and  had  been  found  full  of  just  such 
looking  stuiT  as  the  paper  on  which  Hall  had  been  writing;  but,  he 
added,  "  tliis  stuff  inside  was  good  for  nothing  to  Innuits,  and  so 
was  given  to  tlie  children,  or  thrown  away."  He  said  further  that  he 
and  his  uncle  had  spent  one  night  near  this  monument,  wrapping 
tlieiiisflvcs  u])  ill  blankets  taken  from  a  pile  of  white  men's  clothing 
fniDid  tli<  re,  and    that  a  k<jb-lu-na's  skeleton  lay   by   the  pile.     Hall 


June,  1866.1  Hall  Accused  of  Mischief.  211 

tlionglit  tliat  tliis  story  seemed  to  confirm  what  had  been  before  told 
liim, — that  when  Franklin's  ships  were  crushed  by  the  ice,  some  of  his 
party,  after  trying  to  go  down  the  west  side  of  King  AVilliam's  Land, 
had  turned  back,  doubled  Cape  Felix,  and  come  down  on  the  eastern 
coast.  And,  at  the  time,  he  persuaded  himself  that  the  monument  was 
the  vault  containing  the  long-desired  records. 

He  had  a  curious  though  short  experience  of  trials  with  these 
Pelly  Bay  people.  His  first  trouble  was,  that,  after  a  short  absence 
from  them,  he  found  on  his  return,  it  had  been  whispered  around  that 
he  had  been  the  cause  of  the  death  of  Nu-'ker-zhod's  young  child — 
bringing  on  spasms  by  placing  his  hands  on  its  head.  Relieved  of 
apprehension  from  this  rumor  by  being  called  on  to  prescribe  for  the 
old  chief  himself  and  for  some  children,  he  was  told  that  the  w^ife  of 
the  chief  had  hung  herself,  because  he  had  persuaded  her  husband  to 
remain  longer  with  the  Repulse  Bay  men,  and  because  he  had  given 
medicine  to  these  children.  The  tribe,  one  and  all,  accused  Hall  of 
being  the  author  of  these  sicknesses.  Not  long  after  this  the  old  chief 
himself  was  hung.* 

But  with  the  assistance  of  his  two  Eskimos,  Hall  prevented  any 
permanent  or  serious  quarrels  between  the  two  parties.  Soon  after 
the  first  coming  of  the  Pelly  Bay  men,  old  See-gar  and  Kok-lee-arng- 

*The  circumstances  of  these  deatlis  are  not,  however,  given  hy  Hall  with  his  nsual  clear- 
ness. At  a  later  date,  he  says  that  the  son  of  the  chief  told  him,  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  "He  was 
very  sorry  he  had  no  father  or  mother  living  with  him,  Init  that  it  had  been  his  duty  to  hang 
them,  as  it  was  at  their  request,  and  that  by  their  dying  thus  they  would  be  sure  of  going 
to  that  happy  place  Avhere  all  good  Inuuits  go."  Scc-innuj-er,  it  was  well  known,  had  hung  his 
grandfather  when  he  had  become  feeble.  Too-koo-li-too  said  that  these  Pelly  Bay  natives,  as 
well  as  the  Neitchilles,  believed  in  Knd-liT-pur-me-an  and  Ad-lce-pur-me-an  (a  good  and  a  bad  place) ; 
but  she  thought  the  Iwillik  people  believed  in  nothing  of  the  kind. 

In  some  memoranda  prepared  by  Hall  for  one  of  his  lectnres  after  returning  from  this 
Expedition,  he  speaks  of  this  woman's  having  been  hung  as  a  "peace-otfering."  This  points  to  a 
difficnlty  that  separated  the  two  tribes  for  a  time,  the  Pelly  Bay  men  going  off  some  dislance ; 
in  the  memoranda  just  named,  the  words  "a  terrible  time"  are  found  in  this  last  connection. 


278  Quarrels  Settled.  [jime,  isoe. 

nfiu  liad  closed,  in  liis  tuinl:^  their  long-standing  grudge,  the  blind  old 
chief  confessing  that  he  had  once  wronged  See-gar  by  deserting  him 
when  nearly  starving,  and  See-gar  avowing  that  he  no  longer  retained 
anv  ill-feeling.  The  two  men  then  sealed  their  renewed  friendship  by 
such  jests  as  these:  ^^ KoJc-lee-arg-niin,  why  are  you  now  tottering 
around  with  a  staff,  crooked  as  you  are,  your  face  with  deep  furrows, 
and  vour  eves  dim;  you  used  to  be  the  smartest  and  best-looking 
Innuit  in  the  whole  country?"  ''But,  See-gar,  how  is  it  that  gou  are 
no  longer  fond  of  all  the  pretty  women  to  be  found?" — which  last 
speech  brought  out  a  general  laugh,  as  See-gar^s  reputation  in  this  mat- 
ter was  well  established. 

Besides  these  reconciliations  and  the  previous  unhappy  troubles 
which  have  been  referred  to,  little  more  is  found  in  Hall's  notes  of  the 
intercourse  between  the  two  tribes,  except  that  they  remained  near 
to  each  other  and  to  the  whalers,  who,  when  they  came,  gave  em- 
ployment to  both  on  their  ships.  While  so  employed,  Kooiig-e-oii-uk, 
the  Pelly  Bay  an-ge-Jw,  having  been  severely  beaten  by  a  sailor 
belonging  to  Captain  Kilmer's  ship  through  a  misunderstanding  about 
a  pair  of  boots  which  the  wife  of  the  native  was  making,  was  pro- 
tected through  Hall's  interposition. 

While  waiting  for  the  coming  of  the  whalers,  he  could  not  remain 
unrucupied.  He  planned  for  himself  the  work  of  a  survey  of  the  bay 
ol  wliich  Ou-e-la  dren  for  him  a  rough  sketch.  He  hoped  also  to 
secure  at  least  one  whale,  the  })roceeds  of  which  with  those  of  the 
ftnc  cached  the  year  before,  would  be  so  much  toward  the  pay  of  the 
guard  lie  would  need  for  Neitchille. 

1  "he  .sledge  journeys  made  for  this  survey  are  marked  on  the 
accuuipanying  map.     They  were  mainly  these:  Before  meeting  again 


IIAI.I.S      .JOlUNllYS 

IN     IMIil, 


B..-hr„mI     V 


A 


July,  1806.]  Hall  Begins  Wis  Survey  of  lle})idse  Bat/.  2 7 J) 

with  the  Pelly  Bay  men,  lie  liad  crossed  from  Twillik  to  tlie  west  side 
of  the  ba}^,  to  a  point  where  he  discovered  a  ri\er  of  ^\  liidi  ihc  Immits 
had  often  spoken,  and  wliich  lie  now  named  Orlnncll  lii\cr;  it  was 
found  to  be  as  large  as  the  North  Pole  Kiver  of  Dr.  Uae  Ou-e-la, 
wishing-  to  visit  his  wife's  grave  on  Tee-kee-ra,  was  Hall's  dog-driver, 
and  with  his  usual  success  killed  several  seals  on  the  journey.  The 
travel  was  difficult;  they  had  a  small  sled  and  a  small  team;  and  the 
snow  Avas  tracked  with  blood  from  the  feet  of  the  dogs,  made  sore  Ijy 
the  hard  and  sharp  roughnesses  of  the  ice-crystals  on  the  floes.  The 
travelers  themselves  had  a  shelter  for  the  night  within  a  snow  wall 
18  inches  in  height,  across  which  they  stretched  their  blankets. 
While  Ou-e-la  was  on  his  hunt,  Hall  had  to  make  his  lunch  on  the 
vermin  dug  out  from  underneath  the  deer-skins.  Astronomical  obser- 
vations gave  for  the  position  of  Tee-kee-ra,  latitude  66°  26'. 

On  the  14th  of  the  month  he  began  from  E-noo-shoo-lik  his  long 
desired  attempt  to  sketch  a  full  outline  of  the  coast  for  his  friends  the 
whalers ;  hoping  thus  to  tempt  their  more  frequent  visits  to  the  bay. 
He  had  for  his  companions  only  two  Innuit  boys,  Oot-pik  and  She-nuk- 
slioo,  who  were  to  be  drivers  and  hunters.  With  these  he  started  first 
for  Fort  Hope.  On  the  first  day,  the  chronometers  were  injured  by 
the  breaking  of  the  tie  while  passing  over  very  rough  floes.  The 
dogs  suffered  much  from  sore  feet ;  one  of  them  falling  into  a  crack 
in  the  ice  was  saved  only  by  the  use  of  a  lasso. 

The  second  day  was  divided  between  surveying  and  an  advance 
on  the  route.  But  after  a  halt  to  secure  a  deer,  the  travel  was  con- 
tinued until  3  a.  m.  of  the  1 6th,  when  they  reached  the  banks  of  North 
Pole  River.  On  the  last  part  of  their  route  the  melted  snow  had  been 
found  in  some  places  standing  to  the  depth  of  three  feet  on  the  ice; 


280  Journeys  Around  Repidse  Bay.  [Jniy,  isee. 

the  dogs  with  great  difficulty  dragged  the  sled  through.  Hall  sent  his 
boys  off  to  hunt,  and  occupied  the  next  two  days  in  surveys  made 
from  Beacon  Hill,  from  which  place  the  coast  of  Southampton  Island 
again  loomed  up  by  refraction. 

Eenewing  his  journey  and  arriving  again  at  Tee-kee-ra,  he  busied 
himself  in  renew^ed  observations  for  position,  in  taking  sextant-angles 
and  compass-bearings,  and  in  sketching  the  coast-line.  In  such  work 
the  time  passed  far  more  swiftly  than  while  housed  by  the  storms  which 
had  swept  over  his  igloo.  The  boys  proved  to  be  good  hunters  for  deer 
and  for  ducks,  but  failed  to  secure  a  single  seal  by  their  invariably 
bursting  into  a  loud  laugh  when  getting  near  the  animals.  To  help 
their  seal-training,  he  afterward  made  for  each  a  shield  like  those  used 
by  the  Greenlanders.  When  he  was  back  at  E-nook-shoo-lik  the 
whole  party  of  the  Innuits  had  gone  off,  leaving  no  sign  whatever  to 
tell  the  white  man  where  to  find  them.  Hastening  to  Ships'  Harbor 
Islands,  he  found  no  traces  of  them,  and  returned  to  E-nook-shoo- 
lik  to  spend  two  days  more  in  his  surveys.  Having  crossed  next 
to  Sheg-lua,  at  the  head  of  the  bay  but  still  without  success  in  his 
search,  on  the  28th  he  set  out  for  Oog-la-ri-your  Island,  making  a  diffi- 
cult journey,  but  finding  his  old  friends  about  five  miles  from  the 
island.  The  boys  were  the  first  to  see  the  tupiks  on  the  shore.  Ebier- 
bing  and  Too-koo-li-too  had  been  persuaded  by  the  others  to  go  off 
with  some  friends  for  a  short  deer-hunt.  The  next  sledge  trip  was  to 
Rock  Knob ;  thence  to  Pi-tik-tou-yer  Heights,  and,  finally,  back  to 
the  neighborhood  of  E-nook-shoo-lik,  during  which  journeys  and  up 
to  August  H  the  observations  and  sketching  of  the  coast-line  were  con- 
tinued. 

These    liad    not    been    made    without  trying    experiences.     The 


AnguHt,  I86U.]  Serious  Obstacles  in  Surveyinfj.  281 

changing  temperatures  of  tlie  past  seasons  lind  ciackcd  ilic  silvering- 
in  many  places  on  the  mirrors  of  his  sextant,  and  rapid  and  unaccount- 
able changes  appeared  in  the  index  corrections.  His  compass  often 
changed  so  rapidly  that  no  dependence  was  placed  on  its  readings  ; 
and  excessive  refraction  shut  out  some  points  of  land  and  brought  new 
ones  prominently  in  view.  "At  times  an  island  seemed  to  rise  and 
fall  as  if  an  earthquake  were  at  work." 

In  the  day-time,  radiation  often  forced  his  work  into  the  night; 
but  the  Innuits  made  much  use  of  the  night  for  their  work  and  their 
boisterous  festivities;  and  by  staying  up  all  night  and  sleeping  all  day, 
created  for  him  such  an  uncertainty  of  time  that  he  sometimes  forgot 
to  wind  his  chronometers,  and  was  perplexed  when  writing  up  his 
notes.  Overcoming  his  difficulties  and  annoyances  so  far  as  he  could, 
he  began  the  sketch  of  the  bay,  of  which  the  accompanying  map 
represents  the  line  as  found  completed  during  the  later  years  of  his  stay. 

The  journeys  were  not  without  some  incidents  of  interest.  At 
Pi-tik-tou-yer,  he  found  a  well-built  circular  stone  wall  30  feet  in 
diameter.  It  was  an  old  camj)ing-ground,  showing  many  Eskimo 
remains,  and  offering  inducements  to  any  one  whose  mind  was  not, 
like  his,  absorbed  in  other  purposes,  to  remain  for  its  full  exploration. 

Incidents  of  a  different  character,  however,  now  filled  up  all  the 
hours  of  thought  not  given  by  Hall  to  his  main  work.  This  seems  })lain 
from  the  extreme  fullness  of  his  notes  when  setting  down  the  con- 
tinued annoyances  to  which  he  was  still  subjected.  The  iron  rule  of 
Innuit  customs,  already  often  referred  to  as  hindering  his  plans,  seems 
to  have  stretched  itself  out  before  him  as  though  it  must  touch  some- 
where every  purpose  which  he  might  form.  It  were  useless  to  specify 
such  cases,  a  number  of  which  will  be  found  in  future   chapters ;   a 


282  Death  of  Queen  Emma.  [ ^ugusi,  is66. 

sino-le  incident  of  interest  nuiy  be  here  noted.  On  the  1st  of  July, 
Ou-e-h(,  the  chief,  lost  his  onl}^  remaining  wife,  known  under  the  name 
of  Queen  Emma.  The  poor  creature  had  been  very  harshly  treated 
throuuli  a  long  sickness,  having  been  refused  nutritious  food  at  a  time 
Nvlien  it  might  have  saved  her  life,  and  again  refused  when  charged, 
through  jealousy,  with  giving  premature  birth  to  a  child  without  in- 
forming her  husband  of  it.  She  was  accounted  guilty  through  the 
decree  of  the  au-r/e-Jio,  which  shut  out  all  protestations  of  innocence 
from  herself  and  her  mother:  and  the  maledictions  poured  upon  her  by 
the  ignorant  of  the  village  had  helped  to  hasten  her  death.  Her  suffer- 
ings were  another  proof  of  the  indifference  and  liard-heartedness 
found  habitually  to  prevail  toward  the  women ;  other  instances  fre- 
(piently  occurring,  as  in  the  case  of  See-pimg-er''s  wife,  compelled  to 
walk  more  than  sixty  miles,  with  a  hj-ah  on  her  head  and  a  child  of 
three  years  in  her  hood,  though  herself  in  a  delicate  condition*  The 
death  of  Queen  p]mma  gave  Hall  some  annoyance,  because  Ou-e-la's 
old  enmity  against  the  Pelly  Bay  men  was  now  revived  by  the  declar- 
ation of  the  an-ge-ko  that  it  was  their  coming  which  had  caused  it. 

But  some  relief  for  all  this  was  at  hand.  His  health,  which  had 
been  somewhat  broken,  was  restored.     The  season  had  been  almost 

*  The  degraded  condition  of  women  in  countries  not  under  the  iufiueuco  of  Christianity  is 
too  well  known  to  need  comment.  The  chief  of  a  tribe  near  the  Mackenzie  expressed  the  com- 
mon feeling  of  Northern  savages  when  he  said  : 

'•Women  were  made  for  labor.  One  of  them  can  carry  or  haul  as  much  as  two  men  can 
do.  They  also  pitch  our  tents,  make  and  mend  our  clothing,  keep  us  warm  at  night ;  and,  in 
fact,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  traveling  any  considerable  distance,  or  for  any  length  of  time,  in 
this  country  without  their  assistance.  Though  they  can  do  everything,  they  are  maintained  at  a 
trilling  expense  ;  for  as  they  stand  cook,  the  very  Iklcing  of  their  fingers  in  scarce  times  is  sufficient 
fi/r  Ihnr  suhsistence." — (Hearne's  Journey  to  the  North  Ocean,  p.  54.) 

Compare  with  this  their  condition  in  Central  Australia:  "While  husband,  father,  or 
broilur  is  feasting  on  the  game  which  she  has  cooked,  a  wife  or  sister  thinks  herself  fortunate  if 
now  ami  then  a  nearly-cleaned  bone  or  a  piece  of  scorched  meat  is  tossed  to  her  as  to  a  dog. — 
WooiI'h  Uncivilized  Races.) 


August,  I86G.J  News  from  Home.  288 

uninterruptedly  pleasant;  during  the  nights  the  thermometer  had  not 
fallen  below  40°,  ranging  during  the  day  l)etween  48^  and  57°.  His 
Innuit  friends,  from  whom  lie  had  at  one  time  separated  himself,  were 
not  really  estranged  from  him,  and  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too 
stood,  as  ever,  steadfastly  close.  The  relief  came  on  tlie  last  days  of 
the  month,  when  the  first  whale  of  the  season  was  heard  to  blow  ;  and 
better  still,  when  refraction  brought  up  from  the  ice-horizon  the  forms 
of  three  ships  under  full  sail. 

It  was  not  a  mirage  of  disappointment.  A  boat  from  the  Pioneer, 
Captain  Morgan,  of  New  London,  in  a  few  hours  pushed  off  to  hail 
Hall  from  the  shore;  and  it  cannot  be  thought  unmanly  in  him  to 
have  recorded  that  he  answered  this  salutation  in  tears.  The  sight 
once  more  of  a  single  friend,  from  the  midst  of  his  firmest  friends,  was 
a  full  overmatch  for  all  the  roughness  that  had  been  forced  upon  his 
nature  by  the  ignorant  and  the  degraded.  To  complete  the  pleasur- 
able change,  several  other  vessels  soon  came  to  Ships'  Harbor  Islands, 
and  the  Black  Eagle  brought  to  him  letters  from  Mr.  Grinnell.  From 
Messrs.  Harpers,  his  pubhshers,  they  brought  a  copy  of  the  "Arctic 
Researches,"  the  preface  of  which  volume  had  been  dated  "  On  Board 
the  Bark  Monticello,  June  30,  1864,"  and  its  last  proof-corrections 
sent  from  the  ship  when  just  leaving  the  harbor  of  St.  John's,  with  the 
indorsement,  "All  well  and  in  good  spirits,  bound  for  the  glorious 
North." 

Mr.  Grinnell  sent  the  following  letter  from  Lady  Franklin  to  Mr 

Cornelius  Grinnell : 

Upper  Gove  Lodge,  October  18, 18Go. 
My  Dear  Cornelius:  I  return  your  father's  letter  with  many  thanks. 
Please  thank  him  from  [me]  for  his  kind  remembrance  of  the  dcci)  interest  I  feel 
in  all  these  researches  of  his  brave  and  adventurous  protege,  and  ask  liini  to  con- 


284  Letter  from  Lady  Franklin.  [August,  isee. 

tiime  sending  ino  all  the  inlbrniation  he  gets.  Xo  one,  especially  no  one  of  the 
Arctic  officers,  can  be  indifterent  to  the  news,  but  they  see  the  painful  side  of  the 
matter  as  well  as  the  other.  It  is  our  bounden  duty,  as  it  is  an  impetuous  in- 
stinct, to  rescue  them  if  possible,  even  though  we  may  feel  shocked  as  at  the 
sight  of  skeletons  rising  in  their  winding-sheets  from  the  tombs;  but  the  latter 
impression  seems  among  people  in  general  to  be  the  prevailing  one.  It  is  felt 
that  they,  or  lie,  would  return,  after  a  death  of  near  twenty  years,  to  a  world  that 
he  knows  not,  in  which  the  loved  were  gone,  the  living  changed,  and  in  which  his 
own  brain  would  turn  with  the  momentous  pressure  of  his  feelings  and  the  bewil- 
derment of  his  ideas.  Sir  Eoderick  seems  shocked  at  the  news.  He  has  no  faith 
at  present  in  the  recovery  of  any  living  man,  and  deprecates  more  harrowing 
revelations.  On  this  latter  i)oint  I  am  sure  you  will  guard,  dear  Mr.  Griiinell.  If 
the  journals  of  my  husband's  expedition  should  be  brought  to  light,  nothing  that 
reflects  on  the  character  of  another  should  be  published — nothing  that  would 
give  sharj)  i)ain  to  any  individual  living.  As  respects  my  husband,  I  feel  sure 
that  Mr,  Grinnell  will  yield  me  his  journal  if  he  should  ever  get  it  into  his  posses- 
sion. I  offered  £100  for  it,  in  McClintock's  Expedition,  to  any  man  who  brings  it 
back  to  me.  That  reward  shall  hold  good,  though  I  am  sure  Mr.  Hall  does  not 
require  any  pecuniary  stimulus  for  the  good  work  he  is  engaged  in. 

I  wish  I  might  be  allowed  to  offer  another  £100  toward  any  equipment  that 
may  be  made  in  future,  either  in  aid  of  Mr.  Hall's  work  or  for  his  own  recovery, 
should  he  unfortunately  be  missing.  I  would  gladly  have  done  this  earlier,  had 
I  received  timely  iuforjuation  of  his  second  voyage  to  Eepulse  Bay,  because  I 
should  have  felt  he  was  then  in  the  right  course,  and  doing  the  right  thing. 
When  his  first  plan  of  going  to  Northumberland  Inlet  was  brought  before  me  in 
1860,  it  was  represented  to  me  by  all  the  Arctic  people  as  the  wildest  and  most 
foolhardy  of  schemes,  which  must  necessarily  fail,  and  with  which,  for  the  poor 
man's  own  sake,  1  ought  to  have  nothing  to  do.  I  believe  Hall  is  now  doing 
exactly  what  should  have  been  done  from  the  beginning,  but  which  no  govern- 
ment could  order  to  be  done.  Therefore,  you  must  see  how  natural  it  is  that  I 
should  like,  even  in  the  humblest  and  most  subordinate  way,  to  help,  or  to  make 
Mr.  Hall  feel  that  I  sympathize,  in  his  labors.  It  is  painful  to  me  that  I  should 
ai)pear  to  have  no  heart  for  the  rescue  of  others,  because  my  own  dear  husband 
has  long  l)een  beyond  the  reach  of  all  rescue.        *         *         * 

Invited  to  a  sofa  on  tlie  Ansell  Gibbs,  Hall  again  found  the  change 
IVniii  liis  ifjloo  too  great  to  permit  sleep,  and  at  1  a.  ni.  of  the  next  day 
was  (lit  ill  tli(^  whale-boats  cruising  with  the  men. 


August,  IS66.]       Hall  Endeavors  to  Hire  Men  from  the   Whalers.        285 

On  this  first  visit,  intent  on  tlui  one  |)iu'|)oso  of  renewiiiii-  Iiis  ('X])]o- 
rations,  he  expressed  his  desire  to  secure  from  these  vessels  the  five  wliite 
men  needed  to  accompany  him  ;  but  he  met  with  httle  encourag-ement, 
for  the  ships  having  their  bare  complement,  could  hardly  be  expected 
to  spare  a  man  with  justice  to  the  objects  of  their  voyage  and  their 
obligations  to  the  owners.  This  difficult}^,  however,  Hall  at  once  pro- 
posed to  overcome  by  securing  for  the  ships  as  many  Innuits  as  the 
white  men  he  asked  for,  and  Captain  Kilmer  then  engaged  that  if  his 
ship  could  return  home  in  the  month  of  September  following,  with  a 
full  cargo  of  oil,  he  would  leave  the  men  who  might  be  engaged  by 
Hall,  and  whatever  provisions  he  would  need. 

During  the  whaling  season,  assistance  was  rendered  to  all  the 
whalers,  both  by  Hall's  personal  efforts  and  by  his  influence  with 
the  natives.  He  made  observations  for  time,  and  was  gratified  to 
learn  that  the  rates  which  he  had  given  to  the  ships  for  their  chro- 
nometers on  the  previous  year,  had  proved  correct.  He  offered  advice 
as  to  which  whaling-grounds  promised  the  best  success  ;  he  sent  out 
his  own  parties  in  the  hunts  to  supply  the  ships  with  deer-meat ;  and 
for  a  time  nursed  in  his  own  tuplk  one  of  the  sailors  who  had  the 
scurvy. 

The  captains  were  much  exercised  as  to  their  success  in  whaling, 
finding  it  necessary  to  make  several  cruises  in  different  directions,  and 
yet  without  satisfactory  results.  Morgan,  of  the  Pioneer,  before  com- 
ing into  the  bay  had  attempted  to  get  down  Frozen  Strait,  but  was 
prevented  by  the  ice.  Cruising  next  west,  and  then  to  the  southeast 
down  the  Welcome,  he  had  found  what  seemed  a  passage  there  into 
the  Duke  of  York's  Bay,  but  only  looked  into  it,  fearing  it  was  shallow, 
and  finding  the  bay  yet  filled  with  ice.     Parry's  chart  was  found  by 


286  A  Second  Whale  Captured  [Angnst,  isee. 

Hall  to  have  the  head  of  the  bay  marked  "Unexplored."  Captain  Mor- 
gan's observations  gave  gronnd  for  hope  tliat  a  new  channel  might  be 
fonnd.  Later  in  tlie  season,  by  advice  from  Hall  of  what  Parry  and 
Lvon  had  said  of  the  whales  found  in  Gore  Bay  and  Lyon's  Inlet,  and 
from  what  the  natives  also  said  of  this,  a  boat  was  sent  into  those 
waters  from  each  of  the  vessels,  but  without  success. 

The  parties  sent  out  to  hunt  for  supplies  for  the  ships  were  gen- 
erally diligent  and  successful.  One  of  these,  after  killing  six  deer,  re- 
turned without  Ebierbing;  on  their  reporting  which.  Hall  immediately 
went  back  witli  them,  and  found  his  lost  man  at  the  head  of  the  bay. 
He  had  been  too  bus}^  in  the  hunt  to  keep  sight  of  his  companions, 
and  was  well  satisfied  that  he  would  be  sent  for;  but  he  had  had  the 
pleasant  experience  of  finding  a  wolf  upon  his  track,  to  escape  from 
which  he  had  to  wade  into  a  lake  and  remain  there  until  he  tired  out 
the  animal's  watch.  Hall  and  his  party  heavily  loaded  themselves 
with  Ebierbing's  venison,  but  on  their  way  to  the  boat.  Hall  was 
nearly  choked  by  the  string  which  held  his  pack  catching  tight  under 
his  chin. 

Another  party  of  six  men  and  three  boys,  sent  out  for  the  double 
purpose  of  killing  deer,  and,  if  possible,  a  whale,  secured  a  whale, 
cached  the  blubber  and  brought  back  the  bone  from  the  head.  From 
its  length — 9  feet  6  inches  from  the  butt  to  the  end  of  the  hair — Hall 
judged  that  sixty  barrels  of  oil  could  be  made  from  the  blubber.  The 
whale's  whole  length  was  GO  feet. 

By  the  1st  of  September,  with  the  help  of  Ebierbing,  Ar-mou,  and 
two  otlier  natives,  he  finished  gumming,  washing  and  preparing  the  bone 
of  this  whale  and  what  remained  of  the  one  killed  the  year  before. 
A  ])art  (>^  the  bone  belonging  to  him   had   been   carried  off  from  the 


October,  1866.]  Auxioushj  Aivaitwg.  287 

shore  by  some  of  tlie  sailors  and  not,  entirely  restored.  Making  up 
his  remaining  property  into  eighteen  bundles,  tied  with  rope-lashings 
and  a  three-stranded  braid  woven  by  Mam-marl-^  he  placed  on  board 
the  Ansell  Gibbs  a  weight  of  about  1,500  pounds,  to  be  sold  on  the 
return  of  the  ship  to  the  United  States. 

But  the  whalers  were  not  to  return  that  season.  The  meager 
results  of  their  cruises  were  now  forcing  the  four  ships,  the  131ack 
Eagle,  Ansell  Gibbs,  Concordia,  and  Glacier,  to  remain  out  another 
year ;  and  their  captains  were  soon  to  choose  between  their  winter- 
ing in  this  bay  or  else  at  Marble  or  at  Depot  Island.  The  choice 
between  these  was  of  the  utmost  moment  to  Hall.  If  the  decision  should 
be  to  winter  at  the  places  last  named,  none  of  the  crews  could  be 
spared  to  him  until  the  ships  should  have  passed  through  another 
year.  To  go  down  with  them,  as  invited,  might  possibly  give  him 
the  opportunity  of  learning  something  of  Crozier  from  the  natives  of 
Chesterfield  Inlet,  for  there  were  rumors  of  their  having  seen  him. 
And  yet  to  remain  where  he  was,  if  the  ships  left  him,  was  of  little 
promise,  since  his  next  journey  was  dependent  entirely  on  his  getting 
the  men  he  needed,  and  he  was  unable  to  effect  the  arrangement  by 
which  he  proposed  to  substitute  for  such  as  might  be  left  with  him  an 
equal  number  of  Eskimos;  the  natives  themselves,  with  but  one  excep- 
tion, were  unwilling  to  go.  But  if  the  vessels  should  winter  in  the 
bay,  he  would  have  the  five  men  who  might  volunteer  for  the  spring 
months  at  the  wages  of  $50  per  month,  and  with  these  he  hoped  to 
make  his  journey  to  King  WilHam  Land,  return  before  the  next  whal- 
ing season  was  over,  and  be  in  the  United  States  in  the  fall  of  18G7. 
He  waited  for  the  decision  of  the  captains  with  no  little  anxiety. 

Keturning  to  Beacon  Hill  and  erecting  his  tupik  on  the  same  spot 


288  Hall  Builds  an  Igloo  Near  the  Ships.      [November,  isee. 

wliere  Rae  had  liis  tents  in  1847,  Ids  party  succeeded  within  the  next 
nine  days  in  killing  forty-one  deer,  but  complained  that  the  animals 
were  shy  and  had  kept  off  the  coast.  The  crisping  of  the  snow  under 
foot  was  heard  by  the  deer  a  long  way  off,  and  Hall  himself  had  very 
little  success,  for  when  taking  aim,  his  excitement  was  such  that  he 
invariably  failed.  He  does  not  give  his  reasons  for  finding  himself 
under  the  influence  of  this  "buck-fever";  they  may  be  almost  in- 
ferred from  what  has  been  just  written.  His  right  eye  had  suffered 
some  injury  from  his  having  neglected  to  use  the  colored  glasses  when 
taking  his  sextant  observations;  yet  he  made  daily  tramps  from  twelve 
to  fifteen  miles  in  the  hunts. 

Under  the  anxieties  which  have  been  named  and  the  rumor  that 
the  ships  were  to  winter  at  Marble  Island  in  the  middle  of  the  month, 
he  again  visited  the  Ansell  Gibbs.  The  harbor  was  already  filled  with 
heavy  ice,  and  the  ships  were  constantly  employed  in  keeping  them- 
selves free;  but  the  decision  as  to  the  place  of  wintering  had  not  yet 
been  made.  On  his  return,  before  reaching  Iwillik,  he  met  with  a 
severe  storm  which  nearly  capsized  the  Sylvia,  and  in  landing  he  was 
gale-bound  for  three  days,  soon  after  which  Ebierbing  became  danger- 
ously ill,  continuing  sick  the  whole  of  the  following  month.  Hall 
seldom  left  him. 

His  cliief  trials,  however,  seemed  now  about  to  end.  The  cap- 
tains decided  they  would  remain  in  the  bay,  and  he  had  volunteers 
for  his  next  journey.  For  carrying  out  his  plans,  therefore,  and  for 
a  closer  social  intercourse,  on  the  24tli  of  November,  he  moved  near 
the  ships,  building  for  himself  an  igloo  on  one  of  the  small  islands  of 
the  group  within  which  the  whalers  had  anchored  (No.  1  of  the  map 
of  Ship's  Harbor  Island).  Intercourse  with  the  ships  then  became  still 
more  cordial. 


I 


jTannary,  1867.]     The   Winter  in  an  Igloo  Near  the   Whalers.  289 

The  amnsements  so  necessary  to  sustain  tlie  cheerfulness  and  the 
health  of  officers  and  men  during  the  tedious  rigors  of  an  Arctic  winter, 
were  fully  maintained  on  board.  A  dress  ball  was  given  on  the  29th, 
which  was  kept  by  the  New  England  captains  as  Thanksgiving  Day. 
In  another,  on  New  Year's  eve,  when  some  of  the  crew  and  a  few  of  the 
Innuit  women  were  dressed  like  civilized  ladies,  Hall  had  to  make  his 
choice  between  dancing  and  speech-making;  preferring  the  former,  he 
led  off  with  the  first  mate  of  the  ship.  The  captains  always  held  a 
seat  in  reserve  for  him  at  their  ^'- gammings'''' — yarn-spinnings,  chatting, 
and  smoking ;  he  reciprocated  these  hospitalities  by  sharing  with  his 
friends  the  stores  lately  received  from  Mr.  Grinnell  and  by  liberal  gifts 
of  skin-clothing.  But  while  passing  through  these  enjoyments  noth- 
ing diverted  his  attention  from  his  main  purpose  of  selecting  the  volun- 
teers he  needed.  Quite  a  number  offered  themselves;  and  on  shore 
he  began  the  instruction  of  those  whom  he  accepted  by  setting  them 
at  work  to  dig  out  snow-drifts,  and  by  sending  them  at  different  times 
with  his  Eskimos  to  bring  in  meat  from  the  deposits.  He  now  thought 
that  he  had  full  reason  to  expect  that  when  the  stormy  season  had 
passed,  he  could  make  with  these  men  a  second  sledge  journey  with 
success. 

Strange  as  it  might  seem  to  any  one  but  Hall,  for  these  two  and 
a  half  months  he  still  lived  in  his  snow-hut,  in  daily  sight  and  sound 
of  the  ships,  which  were  now  comfortably  housed  for  the  winter ;  and 
this  although  his  very  frequent  invitations  to  their  warm  and  hospita- 
ble cabins  warrant  the  belief  that  he  might  have  taken  up  his  quarters 
on  board.  But  he  declares  that  he  could  not  rest  with  ease  unless  in 
his  igloo.  It  was  his  own ;  he  could  write  up  his  notes  in  it  and  study 
his  Arctic  books.  His  plans  for  the  next  season,  too,  were  again  ab- 
S.  Ex.  27 10 


290  Men  Secured,  hut  a  Team   Wanting.         [February,  iser. 

sorbing  his  thoughts.  Even  the  pack  of  wolves  which  swept  over  his 
igloo  near  the  ships,  carrying  off  one  of  the  dogs,  is  spoken  of  in  his 
journal  as  though  it  had  happened  as  an  ordinary  occurrence,  and  as 
though  it  were  in  the  lonesomeness  of  Beacon  Hill  or  among  the  In- 
nuits  at  Noowook.  He  would  not  depart  from  his  rough  Arctic  diet ; 
nor  in  an}'  other  way  unfit  himself  for  the  mission  to  whicli  he  still 
thought  himself  called.  But  this  was  again  suddenly  aiTested.  Be- 
fore the  first  month  of  the  new  year  closed,  he  found  that  he  could 
not  possibly  make  up  a  dog-team  for  a  new  journey.  He  might  lose 
a  whole  third  year,  but  this,  at  any  sacrifice,  he  must  endeavor  to  pre- 
vent :  now  that  volunteers  are  engaged,  he  must  secure  the  dogs. 


Chapter    X. 


SLEDGK  JOURNEY  TO  IG-LOO-LIK  FOR  DOOS. 

FEBRUARY  7  TO  APRIL  1,  mi 


CHAPTER    X. 


Counter-claims  on  the  IN^a!ITS  roii  theiu  dogs — Hall  determines  to  make  a  sledge  jour- 
ney TO  Ig-loo-lik  to  purchase  his  own  team— Lkavks  Ships'  Harbor  Islands  Febru- 
ary 7 — First  delays— Ou-e-la  loses  his  way — Provisions  become  scarce— The 
mouths  of  the  dogs  tied  up  to  prevent  their  eating  the  harness — Am-i-toke 

reached,  but  no  natives  found — Ou-E-LA  ACCUSES  HaLL  OF  BRINGING  HIM  TO  STARVA- 
TION—IG-LOO-LIK  REACHED  ON  THE  27TH — PURCHASE  OF  DOGS — VlSIT  TO  TeRN  ISLAND,  TO 

Parry's  flag-staff — Ou-e-la  puts  a  widow  and  her  household  goods  on  the  re- 
turn SLED — Hall  puts  her  off  on  the  ice — Starts  back  with  another  native  as 
driver — Ou-e-la's  bad  conduct  on  the  return — Hall  again  sights  the  ships  on 
THE  30th  of  March — The  captains  now  refuse  to  let  him  have  the  men  for  his 
journey. 

Dogs  enough  could  be  found  among  tlie  natives.  They  owned 
sixty-eight ;  a  number  sufficient  for  nine  or  ten  ordinary  teams.  Hall 
had  several  dogs  of  his  own,  and  asked  but  thirteen,  to  make  up  the  two 
teams  he  needed.  He  had  anticipated  no  difficulty  in  securing  these, 
for  he  had  just  claims  upon  the  natives,  as  he  had  bargained  for  such 
as  he  would  ask  for,  and  really  paid  for  the  larger  number  in  tobacco 
and  other  articles.  But  the  captains  of  the  four  vessels  unitedly  inter- 
posed. They  insisted  that  not  a  single  dog  should  be  permitted  by 
the  Innuits  to  go  on  this  journey;  claiming  that  they  "had  fed  these 
people  through  the  winter,  and  had  as  yet  no  opportunity  of  receiving 
much  in  return.  The  natives  would  soon  need  all  their  dogs  in  sled- 
ding blubber  and  bone  from  the  open  water  to  the  ships,  and  the  time 

293 


294  Hall  Begins  a  Long  Journey.  [February,  iser. 

of  Hall's  return  from  his  proposed  journey  might  be  beyond  the  open- 
ing of  the  season.  Then,  men  and  dogs  must  be  actively  employed  to 
increase,  if  possible,  the  poor  returns  of  the  past  year."  Hall  could 
not  even  get  one  of  his  own  dogs,  which  he  had  put  in  Ook-har -loo's 
trust  on  returning  from  the  last  sledge  journey.  He  was  the  more 
suq^rised  at  this  issue,  because  the  use  of  the  teams  was  as  clearly 
within  the  ideas  of  the  conversations  held  in  the  winter,  as  was  his 
selection  of  the  white  men,  which  had  met  the  approval  of  the  cap- 
tains ;  if  any  difficulty  on  this  point  had  arisen  in  these  conversations 
some  trace  of  it  would  be  found  in  his  full  notes  Helpless  to  enforce 
claims  upon  the  natives,  who  were  fully  willing  to  keep  their  promises, 
he  determined  to  make  a  sledge  trip  to  Am-i-toke,  or  perhaps  to  Ig-loo- 
lik,  even  in  the  very  depth  of  the  winter,  to  buy  his  teams.  The  jour- 
ney might  be  one  of  more  than  three  hundred  miles  ;  but  another  year 
could  not  be  lost.  The  captains  cordially  supplied  him  with  articles 
of  barter,  which,  within  the  next  few  days,  he  carefully  arranged, 
making  up  also  his  stores  for  the  trip.  Sending  his  white  men  to  one 
of  the  deposits  to  get  whale-meat  for  the  dog-food,  he  fed  the  men  on 
their  return  with  whale-skin,  remarking  in  his  notes  that  he  had  edu- 
cated them  until  they  really  liked  raw,  frozen  meat,  and  adding  that, 
j)erhaps  with  these  very  men,  on  his  next  voyage,  D.  V.,  he  would 
push  his  discoveries  to  the  North  Pole.  His  thoughts  had  been  on 
such  a  voyage  during  the  past  season.  It  had  been  discussed  with 
the  wlialers,  and  he  had  openly  avowed  his  intention  to  organize  an 
expedition  to  the  Pole  as  soon  as  he  had  completed  his  present  mis- 
sion ;  h(.'  hold  this  voyage  in  mind  when  examining  the  volunteers 
loi'  his  present  journey. 

After  wjiitiii^i-  the  iT'tiirn  of  some  of  t'le  natives  from  a  trip  made 


February,  1867.] 


The  Do(jfi  Upset  the  Sled. 


295 


to  Lyon's  Inlet  for  deer-meat,  by  the  7tli  of  the  month  lie  luid  secured 
fourteen  dogs,  and  left  Sliips  Harbor  Islands  for  Ig-hx.-lik.  Tlic  tem- 
perature was  40°  below  zero.*  Ebierbing-  and  Too-koo-U-too,  for  rea- 
sons not  named,  were  left  belihid,  and  Frank  Lailor,  one  of  the  wliite 
men,  was  placed  in  charge  of  his  'ujJoo.  Oa-c-la,  vvitli  liis  wife  and 
half-breed  child  and  the  boy  Oot-jnk,  were  his  only  companions. 

Arriving  opposite  Pitiktouyer,  Oii-e-la,  agreeably  to  Iniuiit  custom, 
went  on  shore  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  grave  of  liis  brother,  SJioo-she-ark-nook, 
and  here  the  first  trying  delay  was  met  witli;  for  after  a  night  in  an  ir/loo, 
they  already  missed  one  of 


the  dogs  and  found  two  oth- 
ers to  be  useless.  A  return  to 
the  ships  became  necessary. 
But  another  delay  was  occa- 
sioned by  the  dog-lines  be- 
coming entangled ;  on  which 
the  dogs  were  detached  from  the  j9e-^o,  but  before  being  again  fast- 
ened to  the  sled,  they  had  roughly  dragged  Hall  and  Oot-pik  along  for 
some  distance.  This,  however,  was  but  a  renewal  of  former  experiences ; 
for  Hall  had  more  than  once  known  the  dog-teams  pull  well  for  a  little 
while,  then  suddenly  wheel  around  and  overturn  him  and  his  driver. 
The  remedy  had  been,  to  jump  in  among  them  and  pound  away  ^^ith 
the  hatchet  until  they  were  made  tractable.  Tlie  pe-to^  on  wliicli  so 
much  depended,  was  the  line,  made  of  heavy  walrus  or  seal  skin  which 
fastened  the  dog-traces  to  the  forward  part   of  the  sledge-runners: 

*It  certaiuly  marks  strong  resolution  ami  courage  in  Hall  to  undertake  this  northern 
trip  in  Fehrnanj.  Captain  Nares'  (R.  N.>ju(lgnient  is,  that,  unless  for  the  purpose  of  saving  life, 
no  one  should  he  called  upon  to  undergo  the  fearful  privations  of  an  Arctic  sledge  journey 
during  March  or  even  in  the  early  part  of  April.— (Narrative  of  a  Voyage  to  tlu'  Polar  Sea,  1H7S.) 


BE^Ul-TOOTII,    USKD   AS   A   TOGliLE. 


296  Journey  to  Ig-loo-lik.  i February,  isor. 

passed  tlirougli  ivory  eyelets  at  tlie  end  of  the  traces,  its  ends  were 
bound  together  by  a  toggle. 

When  Hall  returned,  he  found  that  the  captains  were  on  a  fishing 
excursion  upon  a  lake  seven  miles  distant.  He  had  to  send  to  them 
a  request  for  their  consent  to  get  other  dogs  ;  he  slept  that  night  in 
his  old  igloo  with  Lailor,  and  the  next  day  rejoined  Ou-e-la;  his 
team  had  already  traveled  sixty-two  miles  since  their  first  leaving 
the  ships. 

On  the  10th,  they  passed  up  the  river  at  the  mouth  of  which 
they  had  built  their  first  igloo,  and  after  crossing  valleys  filled 
with  deep  snow,  and  ascending  a  very  steep  hill,  built  their  second 
hut  upon  a  little  lake.  Ou-e-ld!s  child  had  already  proved  an  an- 
noyance by  its  constant  whining  and  insatiable  clamor  for  bread. 
On  the  11  th,  Ross  Bay  was  crossed,  in  which  was  observed  a  tide- 
hole,  half  a  mile  in  length,  that  smoked  like  a  coal-pit.  Seals  were 
sporting  in  it.  The  day  following,  they  came  to  an  igloo  occupied  by 
a  ])arty  of  Innuits,  which  Ar-movJs  brother,  with  a  team  of  seven  dogs, 
was  conducting  toward  Am-i-toke  ;  one  of  the  boys  of  this  party,  Tuk- 
kee-U-ke-ta,  was  the  son  of  Ag-loo-ka,^  a  native  who  was  said  to  have 
exchanged  names  with  Parry.f  An  inlet  was  crossed  which  was  not 
f<tund  on  Parry's  chart.     [For  the  route  see  Map,  Capter  XIL] 

On  the  13th,  when  passing  an  advance-deposit  made  by  these 
natives,  Ou-e-la  liberally  helped  himself  from  it  to  whale  and  deer 
meat.  The  next  day,  he  seemed  to  have  lost  the  way,  wandering  about 
over  low  ground  until,  night  coming  on,  he  built  an  igloo  on  a  small 
pond  which  was  found  to  be  frozen  solid.     During  the  whole  of  the 

*  S]M»k<;u  of  by  Parry  as  being  ten  years  old  wl)cn  met  by  him.     (Journal,  1821-'23,  p.  367.) 

♦  The  name  Ay-ho-lca  appears  in  Hall's  notes  as  in  use  by  the  Innuits  at  one  time  for  Goss, 
al  aiioilii  T  lor  Crozier,  and  lure  for  Parry;  it  seejus  to  be  a  generic  term  for  an  oflicer  in  command. 


February,  1867.1 


Severe  Trials. 


15tli  and  IGtli,  the  party  were  gale-bound,  but  the  time  was  not  wholly 
lost;  their  bedding  and  clothing  were  dried  in  difl'erent  ways,  tlie 
clothing  by  wearing  it  in  bed ;  Hall's  boots  were  taken  in,  one  at  a 
time,  and  ke})t  under  his  jacket,  close  to  his  person.  A  heavy  coating 
of  frost  showed  itself  between  his  two  jackets,  for  the  temperature  had 
been  80°  below  zero. 

The  stock  of  provisions  was  now  getting  low,  bringing  fear  of  a 
want  of  food  before  they  could  possibly  renew  their  supplies ;  nor  was 
it  at  all  certain  that  they  would  find  natives  at  Am-i-toke.  If  they  did 
not,  they  must  hunt  walrus  out  on  the  drifting  ice,  and  thence  push  on 
to  Ig-loo-lik.  Thus  far,  they  had  lived  almost  wholly  on  dog-food, 
their  only  good  provision  having  been  four  saddles  of  venison  and 
twenty  pounds  of  sea-bread,  with  a  little  coifee,  sugar,  and  tea ;  raw 
whale  meat,  skin,  and  blubber  made  their  substantial  working  diet. 
Nothing  had  been  cooked  but  a  little  coffee  or  tea,  and  in  this  cook- 
ing, in  making  drinking  water,  and  in  drying  their  clothing,  the}'  had 
consumed  two  gallons  of  whale-oil;   Hall's  native  lam})  was  about  lialf 


hall's  lamp. 


the  usual  size.  An  entrance-way  to  their  igloo,  30  feet  in  length,  made 
of  three  united  oval  igloos,  had  been  built,  that  the  dogs  might  be 
protected  from  the  storm  ;  for  the  less  they  were  exposed,  the  less 
hungry  and  poor  would  they  become.  They  were  sometimes  fed 
freely  from  the  whale-beef,  a  chunk  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  pounds 


2yt;  The  Dogs  Poorly  Fed.  [February,  iser. 

of  which  N\a.s  gi\eii  to  the  hungry  beasts,  who  had  already  broken 
into  the  storeliouse,  and  twice  nearly  eaten  up  their  harness. 

Awaking-  at  one  o'clock  the  next  morning,  Hall  pulled  his  ther- 
mometer into  the  njloo  by  a  string,  and  found  that  the  temperature 
was  30^  bekiw  zero.  Looking  tln-ough  the  hole,  he  observed  that 
tlic  wind  liad  died  away,  the  sky  was  clear,  and  the  moon  was  shining 
brightK  .  Fining  his  coffee-pot  then  with  ice,  he  hung  it  over  the  fire- 
himj).  and,  after  resting  for  an  hour  or  more,  made  his  coffee,  packed 
up.  and  again  started.  Ou-e-laJs  child  a  second  time  proved  very  trou- 
Ijlesome,  causing  repeated  halts ;  but  by  evening  Hall  had  advanced 
aljout  twent\-two  miles,  wlien  the  party  built  an  igloo  large  enough  to 
bring  witliin  it  all  their  goods  for  safety  from  the  dogs,  which  had  be- 
came }et  more  savage,  for  even  while  feeding,  the  fierce  brutes  were 
with  ditliculty  controlled.  In  the  morning,  when  the  igloo  was  un- 
sealed, they  rushed  into  the  passage-way,  wedging  Oot-pik  in  it  so 
tight  that  lie  could  not  move,  and  was  released  only  after  Ou-e-la  and 
Hall  had  linished  iK>unding  them  out  of  the  hut. 

Hn  tli(^  isth  and  liith,  he  was  again  gale-bound;  his  notes  express 
hiri  feelings  in  the  words  "  Too  bad  ;  but  God  overrules  all."  The 
l.M.d  ".n  this  day  was  of  stinking  ook-gook  and  whale-meat  of  a  greenish 
tint,  buttered  with  strong  whale-blubber.  Ou-e-la  thought  it  would 
take  at  lea^st  five  days  yet  to  reach  Am-i-toke — discouraging  enough, 
for  the  plan  was  to  be  l)a(k  at  the  ships  in  time  to  start  for  King 
Willliaiirrt  L;in<l  March  I.'),  l)ut  this  it  now  seemed  impossible  to  effect. 

'  '  the;  20th,  the  temperature  was  —10°  at  noon,  but  the  wind 
was  ,,,,ii..  strong,  and  the  drifting  snow  beat  fiercely  in  their  faces; 
y«-t  a  hteaming  cloud  .,1'  Napor  rose  from  the  dogs  as  they  ran  along. 
Hall  thought   that   if  tin-  w.-atli.T  mod. -rated  thev  would  not  irive  out 


February,  1S67.]  Provisiofis  Exliaustecl.  299 

for  a  few  days,  although  their  food  was  nearly  gone ;  but  it  was  found 
necessary  to  tie  \\\)  their  mouths  to  keep  them  from  eating  their  draught- 
lines  as  they  ran.  The  second  day  after  this,  they  were  fed  on  a  little 
ooh-gooh  blubber  found  in  a  deposit  on  the  shore  of  the  sea  which  they 
had  now  reached  by  an  advance  of  twenty -four  miles.  At  one  time 
they  had  pulled  through  a  gorge  10  feet  wide,  the  quartz  walls  of  which 
were  30  feet  high.  On  the  23d,  Am-i-toke  was  reached,  but  not  a  native 
was  to  he  seen.  A  journey  of  four  days  was  yet  to  be  made  to  Ig-loo-lik. 
A  strong  wind  now  preventing  any  advance,  their  igloo  on  the  24th  was 
built  about  six  miles  north  of  the  Ooglit  Islands. 

The  next  day  twenty-three  miles  were  made ;  but  at  night  their 
food  was  on  some  walrus-hide,  two  years  old,  which  Oii-e-la  had  found 
with  the  blubber  at  the  deposit.  On  the  26tli,  their  breakfast  was  on 
the  very  last  of  the  meat.  Hall  says  they  satisfied  their  hunger  by 
sharpening  up  their  knives  in  anticipation  of  the  walrus  feast  they 
might  have  that  night  at  Ping-it-ka-lik.  One  of  the  dogs  had  been 
furiously  set  upon  by  the  rest,  and  before  being  rescued  was  nearly 
eaten  up;  she  was  lashed  in  furs  on  the  sledge.  Through  the  whole 
day  Ou-e-la  was  anxiously  on  the  look-out  for  natives,  climbing  every 
high  piece  of  ice,  and  looking  sharply  to  discover  some  sledge-track, 
but  finding  none,  he  began  to  look  the  very  picture  of  despair.  From 
the  slower  progress  now  making,  it  seemed  to  him  that  Ping-it-ka-lik 
could  not  be  reached  before  night,  and  if  it  were,  they  would  find  no 
Innuits  there.  Before  long,  therefore,  he  burst  out  in  anger,  charging 
Hall  with  having  brought  him  and  his  family  into  a  starving  and  hope- 
less condition,  and  his  wife  and  Oot-piJc,  catching  his  spirit,  looked  as 
savage,  and  cried  out  that  they  would  die  from  starvation.  Hall 
quieted  their  fears  as  best  he  could,  and  at  night   in  tlio  igloo  gave  to 


;300  Arrival  at  Ig-ho-lik.  February,  iser. 

t-acli  a  siipjter  of  hot  tea,  witli  .some  of  his  remaining  eight  pounds  of 
sea-breail,  i)leasing  Oa-c-Ia  by  giving  to  his  Httle  idol  child  as  much 
ai!  to  am-  one  of  the  grown  jjeople.  He  reminded  them  that  they  might 
lintl  walrus  deposits  at  Ping-it-ka-lik,  but,  if  not,  could  push  on  to 
l<r-Kio-lik :  that  until  tlien,  the  rest  of  his  bread  w^ould  be  for  their 
free  use  :  and  that,  even  if  no  Innuits  or  deposits  should  be  found  at 
liT-loo-lik.  thev  need  not  think  of  starvation,  for  with  their  instruments 
and  gear  tliey  could  get  walrus  on  the  drifting  ice  in  the  places  with 
whicli  Ou-e-Ia  was  familiar.  He  then  gave  them  some  account  of  the 
sufl'erings  of  white  men  from  want  of  food  in  like  circumstances  with 
tjjeir  nwii:  relating  those  of  Franklin  and  his  companions,  Richardson 
and  Back,  on  their  return  from  the  Polar  Sea.  Before  sleep  came, 
(Jn-c-hi's  good  humor  had  returned. 

The  next  iiioniiiig,  sledge-tracks  were  seen,  and  the  part}",  light- 
ening their  Ictad  ])y  leaving  most  of  their  stores  in  a  snow-house, 
pressed  forward  toward  Ig-loo-lik.  At  2  p.  m.  the  voice  of  a  driver  and 
tlie  cry  of  his  dogs  were  heard,  and  an  hour  later  Hall  was  in  the  vil- 
lage, where  he  was  (piickly  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and 
cliildren,  wix.  had  heard  that  a  koh-lu-na  had  come.  An  igloo  was  soon 
built,  and  a  log  of  walrus  meat  and  blubber,  weighing  full  500  pounds, 
wa>;  drawn  in  and  set  before  his  party.  Their  breakfast  on  the  next 
day  was  »Mu-e  nwjre  on  cooked  meat,  after  which  meal  the  Ig-loo-lik 
an-(j€-ho  ma<le  his  appearance,  and  spent  some  time  in  an  '^an-koot-ing"- 
welcoim-  service,  th.-  .letails  of  which  Hall  has  not  noted. 

During  tlie  first  five  days  of  ihc  month  of  March,  he  lived  in  his 
Kiiow-li(,UHe  at  Ig-lon-lik  ain<.iio-  the  natives  of  this  large  tribe,  and 
enjoyed  U\h  intercourse,      lb-  w;,s  well  treated,  his  wants  entirely  sup- 


iTiarch,  1867.)  Ig-loo-Ulx  Ntttwes.  301 

plied,  and  his  igloo  often  crowded.  Interested  in  watching  the  man- 
ners and  customs  of  the  place,  and  in  listening  to  its  traditions,  he 
seems  to  have  been  so  much  occupied  in  observing  the  new  things 
about  him  that  he  took  but  rough  notes,  intending  at  some  future 
time  to  write  them  out  more  fully.     This  time  never  came. 

The  following  are  a  few  of  the  names  of  the  Innuits  here  met  with, 
some  of  which  found  within  Hall's  full  list  will  appear  again  on  his 
second  visit  to  this  place,  as  well  as  on  their  visits  to  the  whalers  in 
the  bay :  Ook-pik  (the  Esliemuttd)  and  his  wife,  Kok-goot;  Nuk-er-top- 
hig  and  his  wife,  Shuk-too-in ;  Ar-tung-un  and  his  wife,  Muk-e-iing; 
Kia  and  his  wife,  Pou-de-lung-e-ute ;  Ag-loo-ka;  Man-ii-mit:  and  the  four 
boys,  Now-yook,  Ard-er-rook,  Pow-der,  and  Amer-wer-rik.  Hall  counted 
at  one  time  forty-two  women.  While  he  was  writing  down  his  long 
list,  the  natives  looked  on  with  wonder,  and  showed  yet  more  surprise 
.  when  he  was  able  to  read  their  names  out  of  his  book.  Among  those 
around  him  he  found  some  connections  of  Too-koo-li-too. 

The  Ig-loo-lik  people  appeared  to  have  frequent  intercourse  with 
Too-noo-nee  (Pond's  Bay),  from  which  place  they  obtained  their 
knives  and  other  weapons.  The  journey  to  the  bay,  they  said,  could 
be  made,  by  rapid  traveling,  in  four  days.  Ar-tung-un,  who  had 
come  over  from  Tern  Island,  remembered  Parry  and  Lyon,  both  of 
whom  he  said  were  very  fond  of  little  children.  Lyon,  he  recollected, 
had  danced  the  little  ones,  and  sung  nursery  rhymes  to  them.  Ar- 
tung-un  himself  could  sing  several  songs  learned  from  the  sailors,  and 
could  count  in  English.  He  said  that  he  was  once  dead  on  board 
Parry's  ship,  and  was  brought  to  life  by  Parry's  an-ge-ko  bleeding  him, 
and  he  showed  Hall  the  scar  on  his  arm  made  by  the  lancet. 

Wishing  to  be  well  posted  in  the  ways  of  Ig-loo-lik  an-ge-kos.  Hall 


302  nail  Buys  his  Dogs.  [Warch,  iser. 

requested  a  professional  visit,  when  two  an-ge-kos  came  to  his  hut,  and 
after  receiving  a  file  as  compensation  in  advance,  went  through  a  per- 
forniancc  ''f  rw<»  Innirs  for  the  relief  of  his  face  which  was  terribly 
sore  from  late  frost-bites.  He  thought  the  performances  really  won- 
derful and  that  these  men  are  not  impostors,  but  exercise  their  work 

in  earnest. 

Having  now  secured  the  full  good-will  of  Ig-loo-lik  by  presenting 
t<»  the  women  full  supplies  of  needles  and  beads, — going  around  himself 
among  the  igloos  to  deliver  these, — he  built  a  high,  circular  wall  of  snow 
close  to  his  own  hut  for  a  trading  mart.  In  the  center  of  this  he 
placed  liis  sea-chest,  and  on  it  the  different  articles  which  he  had 
linuight  for  the  purchase  of  the  dogs.  His  hst  embraced  files,  hatch- 
ets, butcher  and  clas})  knives,  and  women's  or  chopping  knives,  seal 
and  Nvahus  harpoons,  pieces  of  old  hoop-iron,  old  whale-irons  to  make 
into   seal-spears,   pieces  of  wood  for  arrows,  bows  and  spear-handles, 


iNNiiT  .\i:i:ows 


tin  Clips  and  pans,  old  meat-cans,  needles,  fish-hooks,  fish-lines,  pieces 
of  tin  for  sltnh-hoon  (skin-dressing),  old  wrought  nails  and  other  bits  of 
iron,  beads,  sheet-brass  for  kar-oons,  and  iron  spoons.  There  was  a 
crowd  of  men  and  women,  some  of  whom  had  come  from  Tern  Island 
to  receive  presents.  He  traded  for  fourteen  dogs  in  as  many  minutes, 
setting:  liis  own  j)ric(^  on  each. 

<  )n  the  rith,  he  accom])anied  several  families  to  a  settlement  out  on 
the  ice,  near  ili.-  walnis-^nninds,  mid  Iniuid  rliere  twenty-three  igloos; 
an  umi>ii;d  n<-;itness  showing  ilself  in  tlieir  lloors  of  snow,  "iced  and 
nlmoht   uiiHtaiiied:"'    most    ol    them    l)ein<r   lined  with   seal  and  walrus 


March,  1867.1  VisU  to  Tcm  Islatid.  303 

skins,  making"  them  quite  warm.  Their  beds  were  of  the  most  com- 
fortable kind,  great  pains  being  taken  when  making  them  to  lay 
down,  first  a  netting  of  short  sticks  or  whalebone;  then  walrus  or  ook- 
<jroo/<;  skins ;  dried  grass;  then  skins  of  some  kind;  then  deer-skins. 
Few  walruses  were  taken,  but  Hall  bought  two  rolls  of  /cow,  weighing 
in  all  about  four  thousand  pounds,  for  which  he  gave  some  small  pieces 
of  hoop-iron,  an  old  meat-can,  and  a  stick  of  wood.* 

A  few  days  after,  a  visit  was  made  with  Ou-e-la  to  Tern  Island,  to 
get  the  services  of  a  native  and  more  walrus  meat  and  blubber.  Nine 
sledges,  each  drawn  by  from  twelve  to  twenty  dogs,  accompanied 
them,  all  bound  for  the  sealing-grounds.  They  made  a  lively  scene, 
cracking  their  whips  and  racing.  The  sealers  soon  left  the  sledges, 
and,  with  their  seal-dogs,  went  off  to  find  seal-holes.  On  the  arrival 
of  Hall's  party  at  the  island,  most  of  the  men  were  found  to  be  absent, 
but  in  a  few  iqloos  were  wives  and  several  widows.  Some  of  these 
were  very  dark  colored.  Every  one  of  them  wanted  needles  and 
beads ;  the  wife  of  Ark-shank-u  asking  a  needle  for  every  child  she  had 
and  one  more  for  a  child  she  was  expecting.  In  the  evening,  this 
woman  and  the  mother  of  the  an-ge-ko  entertained  Hall  with  another 
performance,  the  woman  adding  to  her  share  in  it  the  small  matter  of 
finding  in  the  head  of  her  boy  of  fourteen  years,  a  plentiful  supply  of 
creepers  which  she  promptly  transferred  to  her  mouth.  While  Hall 
was  witnessing  this  performance,  the  dogs  ate  up  most  of  their  harness 
which  Ow-e-Zahad  carelessly  left  on  them. 

Getting  ready  to  return  from  the  island  \\\q  next  day,  he  found 
that  Ou-e-la,  without  asking  leave,  had  here  made  arrangements  to 

*  Commander  (now  Admiral)  McClintock,  on  bis  final  scarcli  for  Franklin,  1859,  readily 
bought  reindeer  outer  coats  for  a  knife  eacb,  and  bired  four  Eskimos  to  buikl  a  snow-house  for  his 
party  at  the  rate  of  a  needle  apiece.     (Voyage  of  the  Fox,  p.  204.) 


ou4 


Presents  Made  io   llaU. 


uTIaicli,  I  Mi?. 


takr  I'ack  with  tli.iii  tn  Kcpulse  l^ay  a  wliole  i'amily,  witli  tlicir  <roocls. 
llair.s  slecl<i-e  was  now  (liixiii  by  Oong-er-loolx,  who  had  a  light  load, 
hut  was  a  VL-rv  }>oor  driver,  making  but  three  and  a  half  miles  per 
htair.  At  one  time  he  made  a  mistake,  whipping  the  lash  of  his  whi]) 
neross  Hall's  poor  fare,  making  it  sting  woefully;   but  he  quickly  cut 


•^f 


r'  = 


ir  =■ 


ixxiiT  noxE  ciiAim,   k;  loo-uk. 


I N  Ml  T    N  I .  I ;  1 1  l.r.-(  ASK, 

i(;-i.<»i)-i.iK. 


INXl'IT    KXIFE    AXD    SAW. 


IXXriT    KXIFK. 


oil'  tin*  end  nf  the  lasli,  and  sf^emed  very  sorry  for  the  liann  done. 
Soon  after  this  aecichiit,  a  waim  fur  eap  was  made  up  for  Hall  by  one 
(»f  the  'I'l-ni  Island  women.  Among  other  presents  to  him,  which  were 
n..t  a  few,  were  "  bnnc  clinrnis/'  lidd  in  liigli  esteem,  and  a  bone- 
handh-d  knih-.  wliidi  \\;is  connectecl  witli  the  sad  story  of  some  Cum- 
])erland    Inhi   n;iti\<-s.  whose  Ix.nts  had  been  crushed  in  the  ice,  when 


March,  J 867.]  VisU  to  Pamjs  FJciff-Stoff.  305 

nearly  all  of  them  were  starved  to  death,  'llie  knife  had  Ijeen  nsed 
to  scoop  the  brains  out  of  the  skulls  of  those  who  had  been  murdered 
to  preserve  the  lives  of  the  rest.  Finding  that  Ou-e-la  seemed  deter- 
mined to  take  back  with  him  to  Repulse  Bay  the  family  with  whom 
he  had  been  bargaining,  Hall  at  first  resolved  to  make  his  own  quick 
return  without  him,  by  taking  E-nu-men,  a  native  whom  he  had 
engaged  on  Tern  Island,  as  the  driver  of  a  full  team  for  a  sledge  made 
of  liOiD,  with  just  enough  food  for  six  days.  He  could  thus  hope  to 
get  back  in  time  to  leave  Repulse  Bay  for  King  William's  Land  by  the 
1st  of  April.  JE-nu-men  agreed  to  go  on  as  fast  as  he  could  drive,  leav- 
ing Ou-e-la  to  come  as  he  pleased.  But  as  the  dogs  got  at  tliis  how  sled 
and  nearly  ate  it  up.  Hall  concluded  that  the  journey  could  not  be 
safely  made  on  a  sled  which  might  at  any  moment  be  devoured  by 
the  hungry  beasts;  nor  could  Ou-e-la  be  trusted  to  bring  down  the 
other  dogs  in  season.  A  tremendous  gale,  with  falling  and  driving 
snow,  was  a  further  discouragement,  the  snow  being  very  soft. 

On  the  14th,  a  visit  was  made  to  Ar-lang-nuk,  the  spot  where  Parry 
erected  his  flag-staff,  and  then  to  Turton  Bay.  He  found  a  pile  or 
collection  of  stones  where  the  flag-staff  was  deposited,  and  says:  "On 
removing  the  snow,  which  only  partially  covered  the  stones,  I  found 
an  excavated  place  in  the  center  of  the  circular  pile.  I  then  lifted  out 
several  large  stones,  which  had  probably  been  thrown  in  when  the  flag- 
staff had  been  taken  down.  Then  I  came  to  disintegrated  limestone 
of  such  small  size  that  one  could  hold  fifty  or  sixty  pieces  in  one  hand. 
On  removing  a  mass  of  this,  I  came  to  chips  and  fragmentary  pieces 
of  the  flag-staff.  After  digging  down  two  feet,  I  came  to  where  the 
limestones  were    frozen   solid,  thus    preventing  any  further  research 

downward.         *         *         *         Could    I    have    dug    down    into    the 
S.  Ex.  27 20 


306  Tlie  Team  Made   Up.  iiuarch,  isor. 

frozen  mass  of  limestones,  I  doul)t  not  I  could  have  found  the  bottle 
containinir  the  ^vl•itten  doeumeut  which  Parry  executed  and  deposited 
there.  *  *  *  Xhe  piles,  or  collections,  of  stones  about 
the  flag--staff  spot  are  placed  in  such  order  as  to  represent  the  four 
cardinal  points  of  the  true  compass.  *  *  *  There  is 
tlie  furmw  or  trench,  now  evidently  just  as  distinct  as  when  first  made 
from  the  sea-coast  to  the  flag-staff  spot ; — made  in  dragging  the  flag- 
staff from  the  sea  to  where  it  was  raised.  This  furrow,  made  in  the 
disintegrated  limestone,  is  of  rounded  form,  and  from  two  to  four 
inches  in  d( -ptli.  I  was  greatly  surprised  to  find  this  trench  so  perfect 
and  unmistakable  as  to  its  cause."  The  name  of  the  land  at  and 
around  this  spot  is  Koo-pra-look-too. 

While  Hall  was  visiting  a  place  of  such  historic  interest,  he  was 
awaitiiiL!'  the  i-eturn  of  Oii-e-Ja  who  had  been  sent  off  a  few  miles  to 
get  some  of  the  dogs,  but  after  his  return,  a  heavy  gale  still  prevented 
the  setting  out  for  Repulse  Bay.  He  now  gathered  his  teams,  and 
rising  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  next  day,  he  distrib- 
uted the  remainder  of  his  pi-esents  and  cut  up  his  large  sea-chest  to 
give  to  the  men  to  make  their  arrows,  speArs,  and  harpoons.  A  stake 
was  then  driven  ddwii,  and  the  natives  were  called  upon  to  tie  to  it  all 
the  dogs  he  had  purchased,  but  he  had  now  one  cause  of  complaint — 
the  (tidy  one  named  as  to  this  people,  of  whom  he  speaks  as  among 
the  kindest  and  ni(»st  honest  of  their  race.  It  was  this:  One  dog  was 
Ijrought,  small,  earless,  and  poor;  and  on  its  being  refused  as  not  the 
on<-  purchased,  further  compensation  was  asked  for  the  one  which  was 
theu  ).rou;.rlii   lni\v;ird.     Th(^  additional  pay  was  given,  and   this  dog 

J»ro\((l  the  l)c>t   of   tlie  team. 

Iiaviii;_r  now  succeeded  in  tlui  objcct  for  whicli  this  severe  journey 


mareii,  1867.]  Betum  to  tJw  Bay.  o()7 

Imd  been  made,  lie  was  eager  to  begin  liis  return  to  the  bay.  But, 
when  entirely  ready  to  leave  his  encampment  a  few  miles  from  Ig-loo- 
lik,  he  found  that  Oii-e-la  had  put  on  the  sled  a  widow  and  her  child, 
with  all  her  traps;  and  he  was  proof  against  all  expostulation  as  to  the 
delay  on  the  journey  which  this  must  cause.  Hall  then  started  with 
Ook-jnk  and  JE-nu-men  and  his  family  on  a  kow  sled,  and,  quickly 
overtaking  Ou-e-la,  again  remonstrated  with  him,  ordering  him  to  leave 
the  widow  behind.  Succeeding  by  bribes  in  inducing  the  woman  to 
stay,  he  finally  put  her  oif  on  the  ice,  getting  the  promise  of  several 
natives  to  take  care  of  her  return  to  her  friends.  But  the  loss  of 
Ou-e-la^s  new  wife  proved  a  trouble  greater  to  Hall  than  to  the  disap- 
pointed chief 

The  travel  was  heavy,  the  pe-to  more  than  once  broke,  and  some 
of  the  dogs  were  continually  straying  off;  by  night  an  advance  of 
only  live  miles  had  been  made.  The  teams  were  then  found  to  be 
made  up  of  forty-eight  dogs,  eighteen  of  which  had  been  purchased. 
But  as  all  were  not  at  hand,  the  whole  of  the  next  day  was  spent  in 
going  to  find  the  lost  ones.  Then,  four  more  of  them  escaping  in  the 
night,  Oot-pik  went  back  for  them,  while  the  rest  of  the  party  pressed 
on  to  Ping-it-ka-lik.  Here  E-nu-men  conducted  the  party  to  a  ridge 
of  limestone,  on  digging  down  a  foot  into  which,  they  found  two  logs  of 
old  walrus,  which  they  lashed  on  their  koiv  sledge.  From  this  point 
he  chose  a  route  almost  always  inshore  from  that  by  which  Hall  and 
Ou-e-la  had  gone  up  to  Ig-loo-lik,  and  on  this  line  he  crossed  a  bay  on 
the  west  side  of  Fox  Channel,  extending  fifteen  miles  to  the  south- 
west. Hall  had  not  found  this  bay  on  Parry's  chart,  but  did  not  con- 
sider this  strange,  as  Parry's  was  a  ^'marine  survey  only."  From  this 
bay  he  passed  into  a  lake  twenty-five  miles  in  length,  lat.  68°  45',  long. 
82°  W.,  on  which  lake  they  made  their  hjlov  by  the  side  of  a  ridge  of 


3(jy  Oa-v-las  Cu)i(b(ct.  i March,  iser. 

ice  exteiuling-  as  far  as  tlie  eye  could  reacli.  Near  it,  beneath  the 
siiow,  watt-r  was  i-asilv  ol)taiiie(l,  and  the  frozen  Jmw,  phiced  in  this, 
was  thaweil  in  tlnx'e  hours. 

He  now  exjierienced  a  renewal  of  the  trials  which  Ou-e-la  had 
u-ivcn  him  on  his  route  to  Igloo-lik.  Repeatedly  on  that  journey  he 
liad  sh»»wn  a  selfish  disposition,  especially  in  helping  himself  most 
freely  to  the  best  of  the  provision,  of  which  his  wife  also  secretly 
t«>««];  a  large  share  At  Ig-loo-lik,  to  Hall's  disadvantage,  Ou-e-Ia 
had  purchased  for  himself  several  dogs,  and  now,  on  the  homeward 
route,  he  proved  exceedingly  careless  of  Hall's  team,  while  liberally 
feeding  his  own.  To  this  he  added  an  increased  exhibition  of  evil 
temper,  the  soin-ce  of  which  was  probably  to  be  found  in  his  disap- 
l)oiutnient  in  not  obtaining  the  widow.  He  had  cordially  agreed  to 
go  en  this  i()unle^'  for  the  very  purpose  of  adding  to  the  number  of 
liis  wives,  lint  Hall,  when  consenting  to  this,  had  not  anticipated  that  he 
Would  bring  down  a  family  with  all  their  goods.  His  evil  conduct 
reached  its  w^orst  on  the  2  2d,  when  he  took  advantage  of  Hall's  sick- 
ness from  continual  living  on  walrus-meat,  to  feast  himself  and  wdfe 
mure  than  once,  refused  a  fair  supply  of  food  to  either  Hall  or 
(i<,t-j)'tl:.  and  subjected  the  white  man,  in  his  feeble  state,  to  the  most 
menial  ser\ices.  He  ordered  him  to  brinof  in  the  snow-water  for 
drinking,  and,  with  other  services,  to  put  the  how  sledge  on  top  of  the 
igloo  wlien  it  was  necessary  to  keep  it  from  the  dogs.  The  weak  state 
oi  the  invalid,  with  the  renewed  feeling  that  he  w^as  in  the  hands  of  a 
savage,  indiicc-d  hini  to  submit  to  these  orders.  He  says  in  his  notes 
r»f  tlie  da\.  •  I  1i;h1  Mrcat  i-easoii  at  times  to  shoot  the  savagre  down  on 
the  Kpot.  and  know  in.t  Ik.w  h.iig  it  may  be  before  I  shall  have  to  do 
wi  terrible  an  act  to  save  my  own  dear  life."  But  he  more  wisely 
rcrturved  his  puni>!mient  until  they  should  ivach  the  ships. 


iTinrcii,  1S67.J  Thf  NcH'  Disappointment  .'*>09 

E-nii-men  and  Oot-piJi  cjinglit  the  same  spirit,  so  far  as  to  iiiako 
inexcusable  delays  ;  and  these  were  increased  by  the  usual  experi- 
ences of  gales  which  bound  Hall  a  day  or  more  at  a  time,  and  to- 
ward the  last  of  the  journey,  by  the  complete  giving-out  of  the  Low 
sledge,  on  the  temperature  rising  to  1G°.  All  the  dogs  were  then 
attached  to  the  large  sledge  in  the  midst  of  a  furious  snow-drift. 
They  were  showing  their  faintness  for  want  of  food  by  their  tails 
standing  straight  out,  instead  of  curling  over  their  backs.  As  the 
result  of  all  these  causes  of  delay,  the  speed  was  never  more  than 
three  miles  per  hour,  and  generally  less.  On  the  24th,  however,  they 
had  struck  the  land,  from  which  their  course  was  nearly  direct  to  the 
head  of  the  bay  ;  on  the  31st,  they  again  sighted  the  ships. 

This  journey  for  dogs  had  cost  Hall  fifty-two  more  days  of  pre- 
cious time,  during  which  his  sufferings  appear  to  have  been  borne 
with  his  usual  fortitude.  He  now  found  that  his  proposed  journey  to 
King  William's  Land  was  again  utterly  arrested.  Two  months  before, 
when  he  had  his  men  seemingly  secured,  the  captains'  plea  had  been 
that  they  could  not  spare  the  dogs.  He  had  now  returned  from 
Ig-loo-lik  with  his  own  full  team;  but  the  whaling  season  is  open,  and 
he  is  behind  time ;  they  cannot  spare  a  man.  Hall  could  })unish 
Ou-e-Ia,  as  he  now  did,  by  seizing  all  his  dogs  and  holding  them  until 
he  had  given  penitent  pledges  for  future  good  conduct.  But  it  is  not 
surprising  that  for  a  number  of  days  he  lay  sick  and  almost  hopeless 
in  his  igloo.  His  feelings,  however,  and  his  relations  to  the  masters  of 
the  vessels  will  be  best  learned  from  the  following  letter,  addressed  to 

one  of  them  at  this  time  : 

My  Snow-House  ]^]ncamp3ient, 

Eepidse  Bay,  April  12,  18C7. 
My  Dear  Sir  :  Your  note  of  tliis  date,  solicitiuj;-  my  company  on  board 
your  vessel  to  tea  this  evening,  lias  been  received.     I  thank  you  for  tliis  kindly 


310  HalVs  Letter  Ahout  the  Men.  [Aprii,  iser. 

iT(iuest.  lor  lt\  it  I  jiulj;e,  if  my  heart  is  not  aniis.s,  that  you  did  not  really  intend 
to  wound  my  feeliniis.  and  do  me  and  the  cause  I  represent  the  injustice  you  did 
on  board  the  Glacier  last  Friday  evening'.  Allo^y  me  to  state  that  I  am  not 
aware  of  e\  er  ha\  ing  entertained  for  a  moment  any  thought  to  injure  your  feel- 
ings in  any  way.  The  very  nature  of  the  mission  to  which  I  have  devoted  the 
last  seven  years  of  my  life  has  led  me  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  get  to  King  Will- 
iam's Land  and  its  neighhoring  lands  as  soon  as  possible,  and,  therefore,  I  have 
never  sw erved  fiom  this  prineii)le,  w hich  has  been  to  do  all  in  my  power  to  live 
on  good  terms  with  every  man,  that  I  might  have  his  co-operation  in  accomi)lish- 
ing  the  end  1  have  in  view,  to  wit.  the  rescue  of  some  survivor  or  sur\ivors  of  Sir 
.lohn  Franklin's  Fxpedition,  whom  I  have  believed  might  still  be  living,  and  that 
I  might  recover  some  of  the  journals  of  that  expedition,  and  otherwise  gain  most 
imitortant  information  relating  to  the  fate  of  all  the  missing  ones. 

Obstacle  after  obstacle  has  been  before  me,  but  perseverance  has  overcome 
them  all  except  the  last.  I  have  done  all,  as  now  seemeth  to  me,  that  I  could  do 
to  remove  it.  How  sorrowfully  disappointed  ^ill  the  noble-hearted  Mr.  Grinuell 
be,  and  the  thousands  of  good  hearts  of  our  countrymen,  and  of  other  portions  of 
the  civilized  world,  when  they  find  that  I  have  been  obliged  to  turnback  just 
when  I  should,  and  might  well,  push  on,  and  quickly  finish  up  the  work  before 
me  I  Believe  me,  captain,  when  I  tell  you  that  I  feel  in  my  own  heart  that  with 
the  renewal  of  yoiu-  warm  ci)-operation  at  once,  or  in  a  very  few  days,  I  and  the 
l»ivviously-organized  sledge  party  can  this  spring  perform  my  purposed  sledge 
journey  in  season  to  be  back  here  the  latter  i)art  of  June ;  and  that  by  your  thus 
<l«ting  tlieie  will  be  no  occasion  for  organizing  another  party  of  like  kind  here- 
after. If  .\<m  knew  liow  deeply  I  regret  the  wdthdraw-al  of  your  helping  hand, 
ju.st  at  tlje  moment  when,  as  I  feel,  it  is  most  needed,  I  am  sure  you  would  ex- 
tend it  again  without  a  moment's  delay.  I  ])ray  you  consider  this  whole  matter, 
not  as  mine  alone,  but  as  Mr.  Grinnell's,  and  the  thousands  who  have  their  eyes 
npoii  me.  and  f.el  ;i  d..),  im.-icst  in  all  that  pertains  to  Sir  John  Franklin's  lost 
I'XjH'ilition. 

Kxi-u-.  ,,„•, .  .j.i.iiM;  ji  i  am  not  there  to  tea,  for  really  I  feel  so  overwhelmed 
in  p-ief  at  my  «lisapiiointment  in  not  making  the  sledge  journey  for  which  I  have 
m  long  b<-.  II  |,ie|,aiiii;,r,  n,;,!  j  ;,,„  j^m^,  j  (.qhU  not  contribute  one  jot  to  anyone's 
Hoeial  enjoynii  nt. 

^lost  lespect fully, 

C.  F.  HALL. 


HAPTER 


JOURNEY  TO  CAPE  WEYNTON  AND  WINTER  OF  1868. 


CHAPTER   XI. 


AnXIKTY  FOn  THE   SAFETY  OF   THE   CACHE   MADE   IX   1866 — HaLL'S   PARTY  SETS  OUT  TO  VISIT  IT, 

May  1 — Route  by  Gibson's  Cove,  Walrus  Island,  and  Iwillik  to  Christie  Lake — 
Sails  raised  on  the  sled — Snow-blindness— Miles  Lake  reached — Strange  Innuits 
SEEN— The  Sea  of  Ak-koo-lee  and  Point  Hargrave  reached — Expedients  to  hurry 
UP  the  dogs— Cape  Weynton  reached — The  cache  changed — Return  to  Beacon 
Hill — A  week's  musk-ox  hunt — Survey  of  Ships  Harbor  Islands — Native  supersti- 
tion— Hall's  purchase  of  supplies — Capture  of  a  walrus — The  hiring  of  five 
WHITE  MEN — Winter  quarters. 

No  new  journey  now  to  King  William's  Land!  In  addition  to  this 
extreme  disappointment,  there  came  upon  Hall  the  uncomfortable 
remembrance  of  the  deposit  of  provisions  made  at  Cape  Weynton,  a 
twelvemonth  before,  which  he  had  so  fondly  hoped  would  serve  him 
on  going  out  again  at  this  very  time.  The  safety  of  the  cache,  which 
had  never  been  a  certainty,  now  became  a  matter  of  deep  concern  from 
the  accounts  received  from  the  whalers  of  the  conduct  of  the  Pelly  Bay 
natives,  who  had  been  laying  their  hands  on  many  small  articles 
belonging  to  the  ships,  and  even  on  the  tents  left  on  shore.  There 
was  reason,  therefore,  to  apprehend  that  on  their  return  home,  on 
which  the  tribe  had  now  set  out,  they  would  destroy  this  advance 
deposit,  which  otherwise  would  be  so  nuich  gain  whenever  Hall  could 
renew  his  journey.     He  must  go  now  to  the  Cape. 

Expecting  to  be  absent  not  longer  than  twelve  days,  he  gained 

313 


314  Sledge  Trip  to  Cape  Weynton.  [May,  iser. 

the  consent  of  the  captains  to  take  Frank  Leonard  and  Peter  Bayne, 
of  the  Ansell  Gibbs ;  and  Silas  Norton,  of  the  Concordia;  and  with 
these  and  his  own  two  Eskimos,  left  Ships  Harbor  Islands  May  1.  He 
had  a  team  of  nineteen  dogs  for  a  large  sled,  the  full  load  on  which 
weighed  1,700  pounds;  several  Innuit  friends  assisted  in  loading  up 
and  starting  it.  Over  the  smooth  sea-ice  their  first  advance  averaged 
t\v(t  and  a  half  miles  per  hour.  Passing  next  over  two  miles  of  rough 
ice  before  entering  Gibson's  Cove,  at  noon  they  arrived  at  Walrus 
Island:  at  2  p.  m.  they  were  opposite  Iwillik ;  and  at  10  p.  m.  com- 
pleted their  first  igloo.  The  keen  appetite  of  travel  was  satisfied  by  a 
heart}'  meal  of  raw  deer-meat,  coffee,  and  bread,  with  rank  whale- 
blubber  for  butter;  and  the  dogs  had  a  small  meal  to  prevent  their 
runnin"-  back  to  the  islands. 

The  travel  through  the  early  part  of  the  next  day  was  under  sail 
hoisted  on  the  sled  to  assist  the  dogs,  until  the  wind  died  away  and 
the  sun  came  out.  The  sails  were  then  furled  and  the  sled  re-shod. 
Night  found  them  under  a  high  bluff  hill  on  the  east  side  of  Christie 
J.akc,  the  choice  of  which  spot  was  made  in  the  expectation  that  water 
couhl  be  <t]jtained  bv  removing-  some  of  the  snow  from  the  huije  bank. 
111  tills  \\[v  }nirty  were  not  disappointed. 

The  next  day  they  were  housed  by  a  gale  from  the  north-north- 
west, wlii.li  liad  set  in  on  the  night  previous,  accompanied  by  flying 
hnow  X.  thick  that  one  could  not  see  an  arm's  length,  nor  visit  the 
uat«'r-supply;  on  digging  througli  the  snow,  however,  Ebierbing  found 
water  witliin  tlie  encampment.  All  hands  then  turned  out  and  built 
a  loohioo  (outer  igloo)  to  protect  tlic^  dogs,  and  "preserve  their  fat  for 
working  service."  \\\uu  tin-  u-aj,.  l.rokc,  tlie  carcass  of  an  old  Polar 
bfjir,  wliK-h   jiad   been   brought   along  for  them,  was   chopped  up  and 


May,  iser.]  Sledge  Trip  to  Cape   Weynton.  315 

distributed.  In  the  evening  the  dome  of  tlie  igloo  was  built  up  higher, 
as  it  was  beginning  to  come  down. 

On  the  4th,  Ebierbing  and  Norton  were  painfully  affected  with 
snow-blindness,  and  again  a  strong  breeze  with  flying  drift  prevailed; 
but  at  1.40  p.  m.  the  extreme  end  of  Christie  Lake  was  reached,  and  here, 
at  the  "  Lower  Narrows,"  a  band  of  sixteen  deer  was  seen;  this  excited 
the  dogs  to  increased  speed.  At  2.55,  the  party  crossed  the  very  short 
portage  between  Dr.  Rae's  One-mile  Lake  and  his  Six-mile  Lake,  from 
the  northwest  end  of  which  last  they  passed  on  to  a  pond,  and  at  the 
end  of  the  next  half  hour  descended  the  100-foot  bank  spoken  of  by 
Rae,  and  made  their  third  igloo  on  Miles  Lake.  On  the  portage 
between  the  lakes,  a  long  line  of  stones  was  found,  set  up  on  a  sharp 
ridge  of  rocks,  to  frighten  the  deer  and  force  them  into  a  particular 
route.  During  the  day,  Norton,  who  was  leading  the  part}',  had  sud- 
denly halted  his  team  on  discovering  what  seemed  to  him  the  foot- 
prints of  a  man;  they  were  only  some  of  nature's  freaks  with  the 
snow.  The  travel  had  averaged  two  and  a  half  miles  per  hour, 
although  the  snow  was  quite  deep,  and  not  hardened  bv  the  northward 
or  westerly  gales.  The  snow-blindness  of  Ebierbing  and  of  Frank 
and  Norton  increased ;  yet  the  journey  was  resumed  after  having 
made,  for  use  on  the  return  trip,  a  deposit  of  one-third  of  the  provis- 
ions under  the  snow  bed-platform  of  the  hut  which  they  now  left. 

Strange  Innuits  were  here  discovered  crossing  Miles  Lake,  and 
coming  at  first  directly  toward  Hall  while  loading  up  his  sledge.  They 
proved  to  be  ^'- Koong-ou-e-lih''^  ("Mind-your-own-business")  and  the  big 
son  of  Too-sJwo-art-tJiar-i-n,  who,  with  three  dogs,  were  drawing  a 
musk-ox  skin  filled  with  the  beef  The  hours  from  midnight  to  3  a.  m. 
were  spent  in  endeavoring  to  get  again  upon  the  tracks  of  these  natives, 


:;i(i 


Snow-hlind.  '  i^^ay,  is6r. 


in  consiMiiu-iicf  of  tlic  loss  of  lour  dogs  wliicli  had  strayed  off,  scouting 
tlifir  uuisk-ox  uieat  Much  hindered  by  the  thicivly-faUing  snow,  Hall 
and  Peter  BaNiie  succeeded  in  recovering  the  dogs  at  the  igloos  where 
the  Pclh'  P)av  mcni  were  sleeping.  No  one  of  these  showed  his  head, 
])ut  various  stiden  articles  were  observed  lying  outside  of  the  hut. 
Half  an  hour  later,  an  advance  was  again  made  toward  the  sea  of 
Ak-koo-lce  on  the  same  route  which  had  been  followed  in  1866. 
l)uring  the  dav  Frank  and  Norton,  blindfolded,  sometimes  rode  upon 
tlie  sledge,  at  others  walked  behind,  resting  upon  it;  at  6.35  p.  m.,  the 
partv  halted  on  the  bed  of  a  river.  Tliier  next  igloo,  on  the  6th,  was 
made  at  10. If)  a.  m.,  the  travel  having  been  made  during  the  night  to 
prevent  sH<tw-l)lindness.  At  10  p.  m.  of  the  same  day,  again  starting 
out,  thcv  had  the  misfortune  to  run  off  a  steep  bank  50  feet  high,  which 
threw  all  into  consternation,  and  nearly  broke  their  necks.  The  acci- 
dent, however,  delayed  them  but  ten  minutes. 

<  )u  the  7th,  they  arrived  on  the  ice  of  Ak-koo-lee,  and  at  4.25  a.  m. 
point  llargrave  was  reached.  Ascending  the  heights  of  this  point, 
Hall  endeavored  with  his  telescope  to  ascertain  the  possibility  of  push- 
ing out  from  the  land,  but  found  the  appearance  of  the  ice  to  be 
entirely  too  rough  for  sledging;  he  was  restricted  to  his  old  route  on 
tiie  ice-foot.  The  water  carried  in  the  fur-covered  keg  for  re-icing 
the  sled-nniiiers  failed,  and  the  keg  itself  was  soon  afterward  unfortu- 
nately lo>t  iiv.iii  the  sled.  No  one  had  ridden  on  the  march  of  this 
day  exce]it  ihc  faithlid  cook,  Too-koo-li-too,  whose  occupation  allowed 
li.r  little  sleep  ;it  iiiuht.  At  8.:')0  a.  m.,  the  fifth  igloo  was  made  at  the 
west  jM.iiit  of  (  'ape  ka(|\    Pclj\-. 

At     I    I'    III..  May  :t,   ilall    was  (Icljolited   1o   see   by  the   aid   of  his 
glaiM*,  ill'  l.oiih-   which   were  deposited  the  greater  part  of  the 


May,  1867.]  Enticements  for  Hungry  Dogs.  317 

stores  placed  there  in  18GG.  At  noon  he  had  witli  great  difBculty 
taken  an  ''indifferent  observation"  of  the  sun,  wliich  gave  for  liis  lati- 
tude 67°  50'  N, ;  a  gale  with  snow  had  prevailed  during  the  preced- 
ing twent3^-four  hours.  His  anxiety  to  complete  this  journey  and  set 
at  rest  the  question  of  the  safety  of  the  cache  will  be  inferred  from 
such  incidents  as  the  following:  His  "medicine"  (treatment?)  for 
the  snow-blind — i.  e.,  tying  up  their  eyes — had  proved  a  charming 
success.  He  polished  the  icing  of  his  sled-runners  by  rubbing  it  on 
with  his  bare  hands,  and  found  that  after  the  first  trial  he  could  by 
himself  easily  draw  Too-koo-li-too,  Frank,  Silas,  and  Peter ;  all  tliree 
seated  upon  a  full  load.  To  hurry  up  the  tired  and  hungry  dogs  he 
had  adopted  several  expedients ;  among  these,  sending  some  of  the 
men  ahead,  who,  with  a  deer-bone  and  knife,  at  one  time  made  strokes 
as  though  cutting  off  meat,  and  at  another  cut  up  small  pieces 
of  his  Ig-loo-lik  sledge  and  threw  them  into  the  air  now  and  then 
ahead,  letting  the  dogs  see  that  the  pieces  were  how.  This  experiment 
succeeded  even  in  the  case  of  a  fagged-out  animal  in  the  rear  when 
he  was  transferred  to  the  front ;  the  poor  creature's  efforts  to  get  at 
the  much-desired  meat  were  a  great  incentive  to  his  followers.  These 
devices  were  practiced  at  a  time  when  the  weather  was  very  thick. 
At  11.10  p.  m.,  he  found  himself  by  the  side  of  the  rock  near  which,, 
in  the  previous  spring,  he  had  erected  a  little  pile  of  stones  represent- 
ing Faith,  Hope,  and  Charity,  and,  to  his  great  satisfaction,  on  ham- 
mering loose  the  stones  from  his  cache,  he  discovered  that  all  had 
been  unmolested  except  that  a  fox  had  eaten  a  portion  of  the  oolc- 
gooh  skin  which  covered  the  trunk,  and  that  Arctic  mice  had  been 
busily  nibbling  at  his  tent.  At  midnight,  having  loaded  the  sledge 
with  all  the  stores  of  the  cache,  he  returned   to  his   igloo,  when    the 


318  The  Deposit  Changed.  tMay,i86r. 

wli.»l./  i)artv  rested  until  5  p.  m  of  the  next  clay.  Tlie  icing  on  the 
sled-runners  had  proved  so  solid  on  the  night  previous,  as  to  be  unin- 
jured even  when  the  dogs  were  flying  over  the  rocks  of  the  Cape — or 
blufl',  as  he  tliinks  this  point  should  rather  be  named,  as  "it  is  no  cape 
at  all  but  siniplv  a  little  hill  rising  above  the  low  snow-clad  coast." 

Hall  could  not  forget  the  necessity  of  having  a  cache  certainly 
awaiting  him  on  the  first  renewed  advance  which  he  could  make  to- 
ward Kinir  William's  Land.  It  marks  an  indomitable  will  and  faith  in 
his  final  success  that,  although  disappointed  in  the  three  preceding 
years,  he  should  again  deposit  at  a  distance  from  him,  such  valuable 
stores  to  await  the  issues  of  a  fourth  twelve  month.  His  purpose  at 
this  date  ^^'as  to  leave  the  greater  part  of  the  stores  at  the  first  place 
on  the  coast  where  he  could  find  loose  stones  to  cover  them ;  he  felt 
satisfied  they  would  be  safer  at  such  a  place  than  at  the  Cape, 
for  he  had  learned  that  his  apprehensions  of  the  Pelly  Bay  men  were 
well  grounded. 

Happily  he  found  a  spot  seemingly  every  way  suited  for  the 
j>urpose.  His  notes,  with  their  usual  precision,  record  this  location  of 
the  deposit:  "Cape  Weynton,  N.  62^  E.  (by  compass) :  Range  of  hills 
in  which  deposit  was  made  running  S.  45°  E.  and  N.  45°  W. :  Deposit 
made  near  the  face  ot  hill,  thirty-three  of  my  paces  from  a  little  pile 
of  stones  <>n  top  of  a  rock." 

The  I{<turii  J(Mniiey  occupied,  in  all,  the  days  from  11  ]).  m..  May 
10,  to  11  p.  in.,  .M;i\  17.  Ihill  arrived  at  Beacon  Hill  at  6.30  a.  m.  of 
the  17th.  and  at  Ships  IImiImh-  MjukIs  at  tlie  date  last  named.  The 
noUjs  of  this  j.iiini.y,  ;i1i1,.,um|,  tlicy  record  the  usual  details,  present 
no  very  specnil    u.-ms   d    inicrest,  except  the   appearance  of  a  much 


May,  1867.1  Retum  to  Beacoii  Hill.  319 

swifter  and  more  comfortable  advance  than  on  the  outward  trip.  The 
state  of  the  weather,  the  condition  of  the  ice,  and  the  lightened  sled 
were  all  in  favor  of  the  return.  At  the  igloo  where,  on  his  journey- 
out.  Hall  had  recovered  his  straying  dogs  and  found  the  scattered 
articles  and  the  Pelly  Bay  men,  he  had  again  a  sight  of  these  natives, 
and  purchased  from  them  some  musk-ox  meat.  Game  had  been 
scarce,  and  the  dogs  more  than  once  unusually  hungry.  The  deposit 
made  at  their  third  igloo  in  going  up,  they  now  found  ripped  up  by 
the  wolves,  and  the  musk-ox  meat  was  all  gone.  At  Beacon  Hill, 
Frank,  (whom  Hall  the  least  excuses  as  his  "lieutenant  and  the  re- 
sponsible party"),  together  with  Norton  and  Peter,  left  him  and  his 
two  Eskimos  to  get  forward  to  Ships  Harbor  Island  as  best  they 
could.  Captains  Potter  and  White,  with  their  usual  courtesy,  sent  out 
to  Beacon  Hill  an  invitation  to  breakfast  with  them  on  board  ship, 
where  he  found  himself  again  comfortably  at  home. 

After  a  week's  rest  from  this  trip,  he  started  off  on  a  musk-ox 
hunt.  His  party  was  made  up  of  Captains  Kilmer  and  Baker,  with 
seven  native  men  and  l^oo-koo-li-too.  The  hunting-grounds  were 
above  Miles  Lake  ;  the  outward  journey  and  return  made  220  miles  of 
travel.  Forty  musk-cattle  were  seen  and  a  large  number  of  deer,  as 
well  as  of  marmots.  Twentj^-seven  musk-oxen,  seven  deer,  and  five 
marmots  were  killed,  and  the  party  drove  home  well  satisfied  with 
their  three  fully-laden  sledges,  drawn  by  forty  dogs.  They  had  been 
absent  from  the  ships  eight  days,  during  part  of  which  Captain  Kil- 
mer had  been  affected  with  snow-blindness,  making  his  journey  by 
walking  at  times  behind  the  sledge,  and  at  others,  riding  on  it,  but 
still  doing  good  work  on  the  hunt. 

No  notes  are  to  be  found  of  Hall's  occupations  during  the  first 


320  Fragmentary  Notes.  [June,  is67. 

nineteen  davs  of  June;  and  the  same  remark  is,  unfortunately,  true 
in  rc'iianl  to  a  larut'  part  of  the  remainder  of  the  year.  The  record, 
therefore,  which  closrs  tliis  cliapter,  beinj,^  made  up  m  part  from  frag- 
nuntarx-  nicnioranchi,  will  necessarily  be  brief  It  has  not  been 
found  possible  to  determine  wdiether  he  intermitted  writing  his  jour- 
nals, or  whether  they  were  written  and  afterward  lost.  The  precis- 
ion with  which  he  had  up  to  this  time  jotted  down  the  minutest  details 
vi'  his  work  and  its  surroundings,  induces  the  belief  that  he  must  have 
written  out  his  notes  of  the  occurrences  of  the  long  period  from  June 
to  February  of  the  next  year.  On  the  other  hand,  it  were  not  a  forced 
inference  which  might  be  drawn  from  his  fearful  disappointments  in 
the  preceding  spring,  that  he  did  not  renew  the  journalizing  which  had 
so  often  heavily  tasked  his  energies  and  health.  But,  again,  it  is  to  be 
remarkc-il  that  thus  far  the  utmost  care  appears  to  have  been  taken  by 
him  of  every  paper  and  book;  deposits  of  these  being  made  when 
moving  from  place  to  place,  the  bearings  of  which  deposits  were  noted 
and  j)Ut  into  the  hands  of  faithful  persons  wdio  might  find  and  take  to 
the  United  States  an  account  of  what  work  he  had  done,  should  his  own 
life  tail  :  and,  still  t'urthcr,  that,  wlien  on  a  subsequent  sledge  journey, 
a  few  ot"  his  notes  were  scattered  l)y  the  wind,  he  carefully  recorded 
the  fact.  The  toljowin"-  are  the  chief  incidents  occurring  within  the 
isunnner  months,  which  have  been  found  within  the  occasional  jour- 
nalizing seeniin<rlv  ])racticed. 

li<tur;iin;_'-  iVom  the  nnisk-ox  hunt,  he  took  up  his  residence  on 
one  of  the  islands  near  tlic  ships,  which  were  eagerly  looking  for  their 
release  iVom  the  ice;  and  durinu"  the  latter  part  of  the  month  he  was 
again  busy  in  sui-\ cyiic^-.  makiiiu"  oltscrvations,  and  studying  his  Arctic 
bo«»ks.      In. HI  ]MMiiiiiHiit    jKiiiits   he   daily   took  sextant  angles,  meas- 


Latitude  ol"  Encampment  1-,  Hlalion  A   66"'^fD*  2()"N. 

l.oiigltude^ -....,  „_ ,  86'H.'.'0b'W. 

,.     - „-- „.(i.T,tt,n.'-)  .  S^  4W  -Jn;-: 


SHIPS  HARBOR    ISLANDS 


July,  1867.]  Visits  Betwcefi  Ship  and  Shore  321 

ured  his  base-lines,  again  sketched  the  coast-line,  and  collected  much 
material  for  its  further  delineation.  For  the  benefit  of  his  friends 
the  whalers,  he  made  a  special  survey  of  the  group  known  as  Ships 
Harbor  Islands,  to  which  reference  has  been  more  than  once  already- 
made.  Finding  that  when  his  compass  was  carefully  placed  in  posi- 
tion and  was  undisturbed,  the  needle  still  shifted  in  a  very  short  time 
from  four  to  five  degrees,  he  made  for  himself  a  rough  instrument, 
which,  he  says,  answered  the  purpose  of  a  theodolite.  The  draughts- 
man who  made  the  accompanying  map  has  found  that  the  observations 
made  by  this  instrument  agree  well.  His  work  was  uncomfortably 
interrupted  by  the  frequent  occurrence  of  rain-storms,  one  of  which 
continued  throughout  five  days.  It  cleared  off  the  snow  from  the 
land  and  formed  pools  of  water  upon  the  ice  of  the  bay. 

The  natives  for  the  most  of  the  time  were  scattered :  some  were 
at  Oo-gla-ri-your  Island  hunting  deer;  others  on  the  land  fishing  for 
salmon.  Mam-mark,  who  had  often  made  one  of  his  party,  died  be- 
fore the  month  closed,  among  her  friends  who  were  sealing  on  the 
ice.  Hall's  cordial  intercourse  with  the  whalers  had  been  promptly 
renewed,  frequent  visits  being  exchanged  between  ship  and  shore. 
Several  of  their  boats'  crews  had  been  encamped  on  Beach  Point  for 
some  weeks,  having  been  prevented  by  the  ice  from  getting  down  the 
Welcome  to  Whale  Point.  When  some  of  these  crews  had  come  up  to 
their  ships  for  supplies,  and  found,  after  a  weary  tramp  over  the  ice,  that 
their  captains  and  nearly  all  the  natives  were  absent  sealing.  Hall 
cheerfully  assisted  them  by  loaning  his  own  sledge  and  dogs  to  take 
back  provisions  to  the  needy. 

On  the  3d  of  July,  a  party  of  Ig-loo-lik  natives,  numbering 
ten  men,   twelve  women,   and  twenty-seven  children,  came  down  to 

S.  Ex.  27 21 


322  Juhj  the  Fourth:  [Jniy,  iser. 

visit  the  ships ;  among  them  Hall  recognized  many  of  the  friends  made 
on  his  risit  in  the  spring.  His  former  impressions  of  the  dangers 
througli  whieli  he  was  passing  from  the  superstitions  of  the  Iwilhk 
natives  was  strengthened  now  again  by  Too-koo-H-too,  who  said  that 
the  wife  of  Oot-pik  attributed  the  death  of  Queen  Emma  to  the  fact 
that  his  own  Eskimo,  Ebierbing,  had  caught  a  certain  kind  of  seaL 
Ou-e-la  himself  had  said  the  same  thing.  Hall  writes  of  this:  "No  won- 
der our  lives  have  been  in  danger  much  of  the  time  while  living  with 
these  Iwillik  people  I  knew  long  ago  that  they  thought  me  the 
cause  of  the  death  of  Shoo-sJie-ark-nook  and  Ar-too-a,  but  not  until  now 
did  I  know  that  the  death  of  one  of  Ou-e-ldJs  wives  was  thought  by 
them  to  be  caused  by  Ebierbing.  It  seems  that  the  wife  cleaned  the 
skin  of  Ebierbing's  seal  of  its  hair  and  blubber.  Oot-pik^s  wife  de- 
clines to  eat  any  of  our  seal-meat,  abundance  of  which  we  have  in 
our  tent,  because  he  was  the  one  who  killed  the  seals.  She  had  been 
told  by  the  Iwillik  Innuits  not  to  eat  any  of  any  seal  of  Ebierbing's 
killing,  for  if  she  did  she  would  die." 

On  the  4th,  Hall  dined  on  the  Black  Eagle  with  the  masters  of 
the  shi})s  in  the  harbor,  and  the  national  flag  was  displayed  from  the 
mast-head  of  each  vessel  and  from  his  own  tupik  By  the  7th  of  the 
month  open  water  could  be  seen  to  the  southward ;  it  extended  itself 
by  the  '.>tli  above  Oo-gla-ri-your  Island,  now  named  by  the  whale- 
men, Ilall  Island.  On  the  night  of  the  10th,  ice  of  the  thickness 
of  coii»iii(»ii  window-glass  formed  on  the  pools  of  water  of  the  open 
spaces  amid  tli(^  sea-ice  near  the  shore,  although  Hall's  thermom- 
eter stoo<l  at  40^.  Mosquitoes  had  made  their  appearance  as  early 
as  tli<'  4tli. 

On  the  24ili,  the  steamer  Nimrod,  from  St.  John's  (Capt.  E.  Chapel), 


AuguKt,  i86r.]  Purchases  Made  from  the  Ships.  323 

came  into  the  harbor,  having  on  board  his  brother,  Capt  Christopher 
Chapel,  and  thirty  others,  who  had  been  picked  up  on  the  ice  of  Hud- 
son's Strait,  near  North  Bluff,  where  their  ship,  the  Pioneer,  was 
crushed.  From  the  Nimrod,  Hall  obtained  a  heavy  cotton  sail  and 
500  pounds  of  sea-bread,  in  payment  for  which  he  gave  an  order  on 
his  steadfast  friend  in  New  York,  Mr.  Grinnell ;  for  a  number  of  use- 
ful small  articles  he  gave  in  return  deer  skins  and  meat.  From  an 
English  vessel,  which  came  in,  August  2,  he  procured  a  number  of 
hatchets,  knives,  saws,  powder-horns,  daggers,  and  smaller  articles,  for 
his  future  trading,  paying  for  these  with  248  pounds  of  his  bone, 
valued  at  $1  per  pound.  He  received  a  present  of  a  Nautical  Almanac 
for  the  year  1868. 

From  the  whalers  already  named  and  from  others  coming  in,  he 
completed  his  purchases  of  provisions  and  stores  for  the  coming  year 
and  for  a  new  journey;  among  his  latest  supplies  were  those  from  the 
schooner  Era,  commanded  by  Capt.  G.  E.  Tyson,  afterward  one  of  the 
officers  of  the  United  States  steamer  Polaris.  His  indebtedness  on 
these  last  accounts  amounted  to  $455.06,  the  value,  ns  he  estimated  it, 
of  the  remainder  of  his  whalebone  on  the  Ansell  Gibbs.  It  must  be 
said  in  justice  to  him  that  his  purchases  and  his  orders  for  payment 
were  made  in  good  faith,  proof  of  which  is  found  in  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Grinnell,  dating  after  the  return  of  the  whaler,  which  letter  acknowl- 
edges the  receipt  of  monies  on  Hall's  account  from  Captain  Kilmer, 
of  this  ship.  Each  of  the  captains,  while  they  remained  in  Repulse 
Bay,  made  him  valuable  presents,  including  some  useful  books. 

On  the  1 3th  of  August,  he  went  over  to  Pi-iik-tou-yer,  to  remain 
there  for  the  purpose  of  catching  whales.  He  found  the  natives  living 
in  some  twenty  tupiks;  but  a  few  days  after,  most  of  the  men  moved 


324 


The  Starving  Natives  Assisted. 


[September,  1S67. 


off  to  Lyon's  Inlet  to  hunt  for  deer,  some  going  by  land  from  the  head 
of  Haviland  Bay  and  others  by  boats  through  Hurd's  Channel.  Hall 
sent  one  crew  in  the  Sylvia  and  another  in  the  Lady  PVanklin  to  the 
east  side  of  the  bay  to  hunt  deer,  but  they  soon  returned  completely 
drenched  with  the  rains.  A  second  crew  sent  out  for  a  whale  were 
equally  unsuccessful,  and  the  women  and  children  on  shore,  number- 
ing twenty-eight,  who  had  been  de- 
pending on  him  for  food,  could  receive 
nothing  except  some  bread  and  the 
w^alrus-hide  given  him  by  Captain 
Tyson  for  dog-food.  He  then  sent 
some  of  the  white  men  who  were 
with  him  on  another  deer-hunt,  and, 
while  waiting  their  return,  distributed 
to  the  hungry  people  all  the  provis- 
ions he  had,  and  then  returned  to  his 
old  place  on  the  island,  taking  with  him  Ar-moii  and  his  family,  one  of 
whom  was  sick.  Two  days  afterward,  his  party  returned  with  two 
deer,  and  one  of  the  Whalers  having  caught  a  whale,  the  necessities  of 
the  Innuits  were  relieved.  Two  of  their  well-filled  boats  had  sighted 
the  capture  from  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  hastened  down  to  feed  on 
the  skin.  Hall  towed  the  carcass  on  shore  for  dog-food.  He  found 
th.at  tlie  dogs  had  been  eating  the  bodies  of  some  of  the  Innuits, 
wlio  ]i;i(l  been  insecurely  buried. 

On  tlie  1st  of  September  he  again  took  up  his  residence  at  Iwillik, 
from  wlii(  h  place  he  made  vigorous  efforts  to  secure  whales  or  walrus, 
but  the  stormy  weather  forbade  success ;  the  southeast  wind  at  times 
dri\  iiig   ili<-   ice  in   upon   the   shore,  and  a  northeaster  at  other  times 


HALLS   BOAT-LOG. 


September,  1867. J  A    Wttlrus  Securcd.  325 

clearing  out  tlie  harbor.  '^Fbe  snow  was  beginning-  to  fall  and  the  ice 
rapidly  formed  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch. 

On  the  first  favorable  day  for  walrusing,  he  went  out  with  some 
of  his  men,  and  after  a  long  fight  secured  one  walrus.  Four  had  been 
sighted  lying  asleep  on  the  ice;  but  at  the  first  attack  the  iron  thrown 
by  Ar-mou  struck  only  the  folds  of  the  hide  of  one  animal  and  gave 
the  alarm  b}^  which  all  escaped.  Later  in  the  day,  Antoine,  a  Portu- 
guese man  of  Hall's  party,  threw  an  iron  into  another  walrus;  but  his 
line  fouling,  he  was  compelled  to  cut  it,  and  on  Ebierbing's  getting  into 
the  bow  to  throw  another  weapon,  he  was  caught  by  the  line  and 
knocked  overboard,  escaping  by  a  long  jump  to  the  ice.  Coming  up 
to  two  other  walruses,  the  crew  fastened  the  harpoon  in  one  which 
turned  fiercely  to  attack  the  boat  with  his  tusks,  when  a  well-directed 
rifle-shot  put  an  end  to  the  fight.  The  carcass  was  towed  to  the  head 
of  Gibson's  Cove,  and  there  cut  up  and  cached. 

On  the  17th,  he  went  into  winter  quarters  two  miles  east  of  Beacon 
Hill.  It  seems  certain  that  he  had  at  this  time  with  him  five  men, 
whom  he  had  hired  from  the  ships,  whose  names,  so  far  as  can  be 
learned,  were:    Frank  Lailor,  of  the  Glacier;    Peter  Bayne,  of  the 

Ansell  Gibbs;  and  Pat  Coleman,  Antoine ,  and  John  S.  Spear- 

min,  from  some  of  the  other  vessels  the  names  of  which  are  not  given. 
These  men  had  been  already  in  his  service  during  the  month  previous, 
as  will  be  inferred  from  their  having  taken  part  in  the  deer,  walrus, 
and  whale-hunts.  No  executed  contract  has  been  found,  but  from  a 
blank  rough  draft  appearing  to  have  been  drawn  up  in  August, 
the  following  terms  of  service  and  compensation  are  gathered :  The 
men  were  to  be  hired  for  one  year,  or  for  a  longer  period  if  no  oppor- 
tunity should   ofi'er  within   the  year  for   their  return  to  the  United 


326  The  Contract  with  Five   White  Men.  [October,  iser. 

States.  Tlieir  services  were  to  be  of  any  kind  that  Hall  might 
require  and  deem  most  essential,  and  they  were  well  informed  that 
their  labors  would  not  be  light  or  their  dangers  small,  and  that  the 
preservation  of  their  lives  would  oftentimes  depend  upon  their  own 
exertions,  as  their  food  and  clothing  must  be  acquired  from  the  icy 
seas  and  the  wild  hunting-grounds  of  the  north.  The  party  of  the 
second  part  (for  the  contract  was  evidently  with  each  man  under  the 
approval  of  the  captain  of  his  ship)  agreed  that  in  consideration  of 
$500  per  year,  he  would  render  the  services  required  of  him  with 
strict  obedience  to  each  and  every  order  of  his  commander,  and 
would  receive  such  a  recompense  as  he  would  fairly  deserve  for  faith- 
fulness, energy,  and  honest  devotion  to  his  work.  But  neither  service 
nor  pay  were  to  be  continued  longer  at  the  furthest  than  to  the  date 
from  which  a  passage  could  be  taken  on  a  good  ship  from  Repulse 
Bay  in  the  Fall  of  1868. 

From  the  time  of  his  going  into  winter  quarters,  and  throughout 
the  following  months  of  October,  November,  and  December,  and  the 
first  month  of  the  year  1868,  Hall  seems  to  have  kept  no  continuous 
journal.  His  provision-lists  during  these  months  are  made  out  for 
eight  persons  at  the  encampment,  showing  that  the  five  white  men  and 
Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too,  with  himself,  made  up  the  party.  The 
lists  contain  in  detail  the  items  of  Arctic  sustenance — of  deer  necks, 
heads,  ribs,  and  belly  meat,  backbone  and  legs,  with  tood-noo,  walrus- 
meat  and  blubber  muk-tuk^  and  a  small  quantity  of  salmon.  This 
provision,  in  addition  to  what  he  drew  from  the  stores  received  from 
the  whalers  fwliicli  included  a  few  cans  of  preserved  meat,  beef  and 
mutton,  with  a  little  dried  fruit),  would  seem  to  have  been  ample  for 
the  necessities  of  life ;  the  footing  up  of  his  lists  for  seventy-three  days 


nrovember,  1867.J         Winter  QuaHers  foY  a  Third  Year.  327 

being-  1,637  pounds,  or  an  average  per  day  of  about  22  pounds  for 
the  party.  Up  to  the  first  week  in  November,  his  fragmentary  notes 
show  that  fifty-one  deer  had  been  killed.  He  trained  his  men  to  hard- 
ships and  busied  himself  with  new  plans.  He  had  with  him  packages 
of  the  New  York  papers,  and  particularly  the  Journal  of  Commerce, 
in  which  his  own  letters  to  the  United  States  had  been  more  than  once 
published.  His  friend  Mr.  Grinnell,  who  had  sent  out  these  with  his 
renewed  supplies,  had  expected  him  home  in  September.  The  letters 
of  friendship  from  Mr  Grinnell  and  from  his  daughter  Sylvia  had 
informed  him  that  a  special  ship  would  have  been  sent  for  him,  had  it 
not  been  known  that  at  least  two  whalers  were  near  him  in  the  bay. 
But  these  letters  also  advised  him  that,  from  what  he  had  already 
written  home,  much  anxiety  was  felt  among  his  friends  not  only  in 
the  United  States  but  in  England  to  hear  more  of  Franklin's  men. 
Hall  determined  to  endure  another  Arctic  winter,  and  then,  if  possi- 
ble, strike  once  more  for  King  William's  Land. 


HAPTER       X 


JOURNEYS  TO  THE  STRAIT  OF  FURY  AND  HECLA  AND 
TO  LYON'S  INLET,  AND  FOURTH  WINTER. 

FEBRUAHY,  1868,  TO  MARCH,  1869. 


CHAPTER    XII. 


Hai.l  purposes  to  visit  the  northern  part  of  Melville  Peninsula — Reasons  for  this 

JOURNEY  IN  place  OF  ONE  TO  KiNG  WILLIAM'S  LaND — THE  INFORMATION  FROM  THE  NA- 
TIVES OF  A  MONUMENT  AND  TRACES  OF  WHITE  MEN  SEEN  THERE  SINCE  18G3 — PURCHASES  THE 
FEW  DOGS  STILL  ALIVE  AMONG  THE  NATIVES — UlS  PROVISION-LIST  FOR  THE  JOURNEY  AND 
ARTICLES  OF  BARTER — LOSES  SOME  OF  HIS  NOTES  BY  THE  GALE — ENCAMPS  OX  THE  ICE 
NEAR   THE    OOGLIT   ISLANDS — CONVERSES    WITH    THE    NATIVES — VISITS  PaRRY    BaY  WITH 

Koo-Loo-A — Finds  a  monument— Digs  in  vain  for  the  cache— Finds  the  remains  of 

A  TENTING-PLACE  ONCE  OCCUPIED  BY  WHITE   MEN — DISCOVERS   GRINNELL  LaKE  AND   BrE- 

vooRT  EivER — Visits  Amherst  Island — Returns  to  Tern  Island — Holds  further 
conversations  with  the  natives — receives  several  maps  drawn  by  the  eskimos — 
Visits  Gifford  River  to  find  another  tenting-place — Returns  to  Repulse  Bay — 
Salmon-fishing  and  deer-hunts — Mutiny  of  one  of  the  five  white  men — Loss  of 
LIFE — Capture  of  a  second  whale — Journey  to  Lyon's  Inlet — Survey — Discharge 
OF  the  four  white  men — Hall  dries  venison  and  prepares  pemmican  in  his  own 
IGLOO — Plans  for  a  new  sledge  journey  to  King  William's  Land. 

Before  the  winter  of  1867-68  closed,  every  preparation  had  been 
made  for  renewing  the  advance  of  the  preceding-  year.  But  Hall  now 
felt  himself  suddenly  and  unexpectedly  called  to  that  part  of  Melville 
Peninsula  which  borders  on  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait.  His  reasons  for 
making  this  journey  in  place  of  going  to  King  William's  Land,  were  in 
his  own  mind  sufficient  to  induce  the  change  ;  they  are  here  given  in 
nearly  the  language  of  his  own  notes,  unimportant  details  only  being 
omitted. 

In  the  latter  part  of  October,  1867,  Papa-te-wa,  a  brother  of  ^r- 
mou,  had  told  him  that  a  few  years  before,  an  Innuit  had  seen,  some- 

331 


332  The  Monument  on  Melville  Peninsula.        fjanuary,  ises. 

where  in  the  neighborhood  of  Ig-loo-lik,  two  stone  buildings,  "not 
such  as  Innuits  ever  made,  but  quite  large,  long,  wide,  and  high."  To 
this  story,  which  appeared  quite  improbable,  Hall  at  first  paid  but  lit- 
tle attention  ;  but  a  few  days  after  this,  Ebierbing  showed  Paim,  on 
Parry's  chart,  the  country  around  Tg-loo-lik  ;  and  as  soon  as  the  na- 
tive understood  the  chart,  he  pointed  out  the  place  where  these  build- 
ings had  been  found,  and  gave  the  name  of  the  Innuit  who  had  seen 
them  when  on  his  deer-hunt.  It  was  on  the  south  side  of  the  strait, 
about  half  way  between  Cape  Englefield  and  Amherst  Island,  and  the 
buildings,  he  said,  were  on  a  low  shelving  shore  near  some  bold  high- 
land. Papa  said  of  the  Innuit,  Kia^  who  had  seen  them,  that  he  w^as 
a  man  who  would  never  lie.  He  gave  as  a  reason  for  Kia^s  close 
observation  of  every  object  in  that  country,  his  consciousness  that  his 
own  life  had  long  been  in  perpetual  danger  from  the  relatives  of  one 
who  had  been  slain  by  one  of  his  kinsmen  ;  for,  according  to  Innuit 
belief,  the  soul  of  the  slain  can  never  rest  until  some  near  relative  of 
the  slayer  shall  pay  the  debt  with  his  blood.  Of  Papa  himself,  Hall 
says  that  he  was  a  good-natured,  intelligent,  and  truthful  native,  who 
had  lived  five  years  near  Ponds  Bay  and  many  more  at  Ig-loo-lik. 

Frequent  conversations  were,  therefore,  held  with  Papa,  and  with 
his  friend  Ik-ku-mer,  to  learn  everything  on  this  new  and  interesting 
subject ;  and  in  tlie  early  part  of  February  following,  Hall  sent  Ebier- 
bing and  Frank  Lailor  to  a  native  village,  twenty  miles  distant  on  the 
ice,  to  ask  that  some  of  the  natives  of  Ig-loo-lik  who  were  there  would 
visit  liini.  1  hey  returned  with  Quasha,  his  wife,  and  JEek-choo-ar-cJioo, 
whom  Hall  notes  also  as  "  Jerry  " — a  name  probably  received  from 
the  whalemen.  From  these  natives  he  learned  with  further  interest 
that  within  the  past  three  years  they  had   seen   near  Ig-loo-lik  two 


jnnuaiy,  IS68.]      Tlic  WMte  Meu  Sceu  Since  Rae\s  Visit.  333 

white  men,  "one  a  tall  man,  the  other  considerably  shorter."  On  fur- 
ther close  questioning-  them,  his  belief  in  their  story  was  confirmed  by 
the  seeming  consistency  of  their  statements.  They  had  seen  Dr.  Rae 
at  Pelly  Bay  seven  years  after  his  first  visit  to  their  country,  and  had 
remained  near  Iwillik  seven  winters  and  a  half,  after  Rae  went  home 
from  his  second  visit ;  after  which  they  went  to  Ig-loo-lik,  and  two 
years  later,  saw  the  koh-lu-nas.  Some  additional  particulars  which  they 
gave  strengthened  their  story  ;  among  these  was  an  account  of  a  time 
of  suffering  by  starvation  which  they  had  experienced.  Hall  says 
that  their  statements,  with  other  news  gained  from  the  Innuits,  gave 
him  inexpressible  joy,  "  for  it  brought  the  story  down  as  late  as  1864, 
at  which  time  some  of  Franklin's  companions  were  alive  near  Fury 
and  Hecla  Strait."     This  was  his  strong  hope. 

A  short  time  afterward,  he  sent  a  large  load  of  walrus-meat  to 
relieve  the  suffering  people  of  this  village,  numbering  fifty-five  per- 
sons, and  heard  further  from  them  that  four  years  after  Rae's  last  visit  a 
ship's  beam,  painted  black  on  one  side,  and  a  long  and  large  mast,  had 
been  seen  on  the  east  shore  near  the  southern  terminus  of  Committee 
Bay.  The  Pelly  Bay  men  also  were  reported  as  having  seen  since  Dr. 
Rae's  departure,  on  the  shores  of  Simpson's  Peninsula,  a  stone  monument 
having  on  its  top  a  thin  stone  pointing  toward  Ig-loo-lik.  Not  satisfied 
without  making  every  effort  to  learn  the  reputation  in  which  Quaslia 
and  his  wife  were  held  for  truthfulness.  Hall  now  made  close  inquiries 
for  this  of  Ar-goo-nioo-too-lik  whom  he  had  long  trusted,  and  sent  to  the 
village  to  question  the  natives  on  the  same  point.  The  replies  were 
every  way  satisfactory,  except  that  QuasJio,  in  his  younger  days,  had 
been  known  as  fond  of  telling  yarns  ;  his  wife  was  considered  entirely 
truthful.     Still  later  in  the  month,  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too  visited 


334        Did  all  of  Franldin's  Party  go  to  Back's  River f     [January,  ises. 

Quasha's  wife  to  obtain  further  news  and  the  minute  particulars  of  the 
accounts  ah'eady  received.  On  their  return  Hall  wrote  :  "  The  news 
relative  to  there  having  been  seen  white  men  near  Ig-loo-lik  between 
1849  and  1865,  proves  to  be  true  beyond  all  question  in  my  mind 
Certainly  I  am  bound  at  once  for  Ig-loo-lik  and  Fury  and  Hecla 
Strait.  There  is  not  a  shadow  of  doubt  about  my  duty,  which  is  to 
fly  to  the  rescue  of  the  probable  survivors  of  Frankhn's  Expedition." 

It  will  not  be  forgotten  that  this  rescue  was  the  chief  one  of  the 
two  objects  named  in  all  his  appeals  and  lectures  from  the  date  of 
1860,  when  he  had  begun  his  training  for  these  expeditions  by  tenting 
out  on  tlie  hills  of  Cincinnati.  He  now  yearned  to  be  off  to  the  strait, 
which  he  calls  "  a  hallowed  spot."  Papa  told  him  that  he  and  all  the 
Ig-loo-lik  natives  believed  the  accounts  which  have  been  now  given, 
and  that  some  of  the  survivors  might  he  still  found  alive;  he  was  will- 
ing to  assist  in  the  search.  Hall  appears  to  have  been  impressed  with 
the  great  probability  that  all  of  Franklin's  party  had  not  continued  on 
the  hopeless  route  to  Back's  River.  His  hopes  of  this  resulted  from 
reflections  like  those  lately  expressed  by  Dr.  Rae,  as  found  in  ''Smith's 
Arctic  Expeditions,  1878."     Rae  says : 

What  struck  me  at  the  time,  as  it  does  still,  was  the  great  mistake  made  by 
Franklin's  party  in  attempting  to  save  themselves  by  retreating  to  the  Hudson's 
Bay  territories.  We  should  have  thought  that  the  fearful  suflerings  undergone 
by  Franklin  and  his  coiiii)nni(»ns,  Tfiolinrdson  and  Back,  on  a  former  short  Jour- 
m-y  through  tlicsc  burrtMi  grounds,  would  jiavt'  deterred  inexperienced  men  trom 
attempting  such  a  thing,  when  the  well -knoAvn  r<»ntc  to  Fury  Beach — certainly 
niiM  h  more  accessible  than  any  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  settlements,  and 
h\  wliich  the  T^osses  escaped  in  1832-'.3.3 — was  open  to  them.  The  distance  from 
their  shijjs  to  !•  iny  Beach  was  very  little  greater  than  that  from  where  Ross's 
vessel  was  al»and(iiie<l  to  the  same  jdace,  and  Franklin  and  liis  officers  must  have 
known  that  an  immense  stock  of  provisions  still  remained  at  the  place  where 
the  Fury  was  wrecked,  anH  where,  even  so  late  as  1850,  an  immense  stock  of  pre- 


jTinrch,  is6fs.]  Preparations  for  Visiting  the  Strait.  335 

served  vegetables,  soups,  tobacco,  sugar,  flom-,  &c.,  still  remained  (a  mucli  larger 
supply  than  could  be  Ibuud  at  many  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  trading-posts) ;  besides, 
the  people  would  have  been  in  the  direct  road  of  searching  parties  or  whalers. 
The  distance  to  Fury  Beach  from  where  the  ships  were  abandoned,  roughly 
measured,  is,  as  nearly  as  possible,  the  same  as  that  between  the  ships  and  the 
true  mouth  of  the  Great  Fish  Eiver,  or  about  two  hundred  and  ten  geographical 
miles  in  a  straight  line.  Had  the  retreat  upon  Fury  Beach  been  resolved  upon, 
the  necessity  for  hauling  heavy  boats  would  have  been  avoided,  for  during  the 
previous  season  (that  of  1847)  a  small  sledge  party  might  have  been  dispatched 
thither  to  ascertain  whether  the  provisions  and  boats  at  the  depot  were  safe  and 
available.  The  successful  performance  of  such  a  journey  should  not  have  been 
difficult  for  an  expedition  consisting  of  130  men,  who,  in  the  record  found  in  1859 
by  McClintock,  were  reported  all  well  in  the  spring  of  1847. 

[In  connection  with  these  views  of  Rae,  and  in  recording  Hall's 
enthusiastic  expectations,  with  the  repeated  and  uniform  accounts 
given  to  him  of  some  white  men  having  been  seen  on  the  peninsula 
later  than  1854  (together  with  their  monument  and  tenting-place, 
which  he  did  discover),  the  questions  at  this  point  of  the  Narra- 
tive seem  irrepressible ; — "  Is  it  possible  that  some  of  Franklin's 
men  did  make  their  way  eastward  to  Melville  Peninsula!"  Will  the 
expedition  of  1878  from  New  York,  under  Schwatka,  or  some  future 
explorer  lighting  on  a  cairn,  ever  give  the  world  some  answer  to  this 
inquiry?  for  it  seems  by  no  means  certain  that  all  of  the  105  remained 
under  Crozier's  leadership  toward  Back's  River.  Will  the  Franklin 
Records  ever  be  recovered  for  England  and  for  the  world  ?] 

During  the  first  three  weeks  of  March,  Hall  busied  himself  in 
making  his  preparations.  After  providing  for  the  four  white  men 
whom  he  would  leave  at  the  encampment  at  Talloon,  he  made  his 
usual  deposit  of  records  and  stores.  An  epidemic  had  again  visited 
the  dogs,  and  his  own  team  had  been  reduced  from  twenty-three  to 
eight.     Some  having  died  from  the  disease,  he  had   killed  others  \o 


336  The  Dog  Disease.  [March,  1868. 

prevent  its  spread.  He  succeeded,  however,  in  securing  five  from  the 
Innuits,  the  only  dogs  except  two  or  three  that  remained  alive  about  the  hay* 
In  return  for  the  information  he  had  just  received  and  for  other  past 
services,  he  added  useful  articles  to  the  compensation  which  he  gave 
for  these  dogs. 

On  the  23d,  he  left  his  encampment,  ha\4ng  for  his  companions 
Frank  Lailor,  Papa  and  his  wife  and  little  child,  Ebierbing,  and  Too- 
koo-li-too.  His  provision-list  was  made  up  of — bread,  308  pounds ; 
pemmican,  252  pounds;  raw  venison,  100  pounds;  pork,  17  pounds; 
sugar,  25  pounds  ;  coftee  and  tea,  10  pounds;  molasses,  39  pounds; 
tobacco,  13^  pounds;  seal-blubber,  40  pounds,  Ook-gooh  oil,  50 
pounds,  partly  for  fuel ; — walrus-hide,  463  pounds,  and  whale-tongue, 
266  pounds,  for  dog-food.  Expecting  to  meet  his  old  friends  at  Ig- 
loo-lik  he  counted  on  renewing  his  supplies  at  that  place. 

His  list  of  articles  for  barter  and  for  presents  included  50  knives; 


*  The  peculiar  nature  of  the  Eskimo  dog  disease  was  closely  noted  in  the  experience  of  the 
English  Expedition  of  1875.  The  following  is  taken  from  the  report  of  Fleet-Surgeon  B.  Ninnis. 
(Parliamentary  Paper,  C.  2176,  1S78): 

"  Tvrenty-live  apparently  healthy  dogs  were  embarked  on  board  ship  in  the  middle  of 
July,  1875.  The  number  subsequently  increased  to  twenty-seven  by  the  addition  of  two  young 
ones.  We  were  given  to  understand  that  feeding  twice  a  week  was  amply  suflScient ;  that  the 
worst  possible  personal  treatment  was  too  good  for  them,  and  meat  in  any  stage  of  decomposition 
a  perfect  luxury  to  their  fastidious  palates. 

"  Seven  and  twenty  animals,  confined  to  a  space  which  the  utmost  attention  was  scarcely 
sufficient  to  keep  habitable,  constantly  quarreling  and  fighting  for  dear  life,  exposed  to  sun, 
dew,  snow,  and  wet  generally,  and  without  a  chance  of  a  run  ashore — it  was  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  that  they  began  to  show  signs  of  disease.  The  first  attacked  was  a  young  female 
twenty-five  days  on  board,  and  she  had  a  fit  and  died  in  thirteen  days.  Others  became  attacked. 
One  was  summarily  shot ;  one  ran  away,  and  was  seen  no  more ;  two  were  accidentally  drowned  ; 
seven  died  from  the  disease  ;  six  recovered;  one  died  mad. 

"Of  the  whole  number,  twelve  only  were  under  medical  treatment;  one  had  rabies  and 
died ;  one  so  far  recovered  as  to  have  two  litters  of  pups,  and  then  died  ten  months  after  her 
first  fit  and  two  or  three  days  after  her  last  litter ;  two  fell  into  the  water  when  in  fits  and  were 
drowned;  two  died  notwithstanding  everything  that  was  done  to  cure  them,  and  six  recovered 
and  were  landed  at  Disco.  •  »  »  xhe  treatment  found  most  beneficial  was  calomel,  fol- 
lowed in  some  cases  by  croton-oil  and  solution  of  morphia,  the  best  of  water,  and  good  food. 
They  were  not  kicked  or  cuffed,  and  they  behaved  as  sociably  and  decorously  as  if  brought  up 
in  a  cottage."' 


April,  1S0S.1  l^aiKi  Loses  IlaWs  Notes.  .'i37 

5U0  percussion-caps;  a  liberal  supply  of  ball,  powder,  and  shot;  1,500 
needles,  and  80  thimbles,  besides  combs,  looking-glasses,  buttons,  beads, 
brass  rings,  fish-hooks,  and  files,  &c.  The  experience  of  his  visit  of 
the  previous  year  to  Ig-loo-lik  had  taught  him  something  of  the  value 
set  upon  the  smallest  of  these  articles,  even  upon  scraps  of  iron  and 
wood. 

On  arriving  at  the  head  of  Haviland  Bay,  he  crossed  the  land, 
taking  nearly  the  same  route  with  that  followed  the  year  before,  and 
on  the  oOtli  made  his  seventh  igloo  of  the  journey  on  a  lakelet  just 
above  Lyon's  Inlet.  While  here  engaged  chiseling  a  hole  through 
the  ice,  he  had  the  lamentable  misfortune  to  see  Papa  flying  in  full 
chase  after  some  of  his  freshly- written  notes,  which,  on  unloading  the 
sledge,  had  been  suddenly  swept  out  of  their  fur-cover  by  a  furious 
blast  of  the  gale.  Papa  returned  in  three-quarters  of  an  hour ;  but, 
after  chasing  the  books  over  the  lake  and  beyond  the  rising  ground, 
he  had  lost  sight  of  the  jottings  made  since  leaving  Talloon.  The 
flying  drift  buried  them  forever. 

When  starting  on  the  second  day  following,  bridle-drags  were 

prepared  for  the  sledges,  as  they  had  now  to  descend  a  steep  hill  into 

a  river-bed ;  a  moment  after.  Papa  ran  the  sled  Erebus  upon  the  point 

of  a  sharp  rock  which  knocked  off  some  of  the  mossing,  whereupon 

he    angrily  got  a  large    stone    and    pounded   the    point   to    powder. 

There  was,  however,  a  delay  of  but  five  minutes.       On  the  2d,  they 

reached  Fox  Channel,  and   made  their   tenth  igloo  at  Oo-soo-ark-u; 

and  here  Hall  remained  one  day  to  please  his  companions.     He  took 

observations  for  position,  and  left  a  deposit  of  103  pounds  of  bread  and 

64  pounds   of  pemmican  for  his  return  journey.     In  consequence  of 

heavy  and  rough  ice   met  with  on  the  4th  they  struck  offshore,  and, 
S.  Ex.  37 22 


338  Reception  at  the  Oo-fjlit  Islands.  laphi,  ises. 

when  reaching  the  latitude  of  the  north  end  of  Am-i-toke,  turned  to  the 
westward  and  encamped  near  it.  They  met  fresh  foot-prints  seem- 
ingly of  two  men  and  a  dog,  and  supposed  that  the  men  had  been  Aval- 
rusing  at  the  north  on  the  drift-ice,  which,  being  carried  away  had 
brought  them  to  this  point  before  they  had  a  chance  of  gaining  the 
firm  ice.  On  the  6th  of  April,  the  thirteenth  igloo  was  built  at  a  point 
called  by  the  Innuits  King-me-toke-big,  not  far  from  the  Oo-glit 
Islands,  and  the  day  following,  when  within  a  short  drive  from  these 
islands,  an  Innuit  who  had  been  out  all  night  on  liis  watch,  came  up  to 
them  with  his  full  sealing-gear.  He  proved  to  be  an  old  man  whom 
Hall  had  never  before  seen,  but  he  gave  some  information  as  to  the 
number  of  natives  on  the  islands,  and  at  Ping-it-ka-lik  and  Ig-loo-lik. 
Coming  to  the  islands.  Hall's  party  saw  standing  on  the  hill-top  a  row 
of  Innuits  watching  them;  Papa  fired  off  his  gun,  and  the  old  man, 
Too-loo-arch-oo,  cried  out  to  them  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  ''  Mitter  Hall, 
Mitter  Hall !"  The  natives  of  the  village,  when  they  caught  the  words, 
answered  with  loud  cries,  set  to  dancing,  and  ofiered  as  warm  a  recep- 
tion as  on  the  previous  year.  When  they  crowded  into  the  quickly- 
built  igloo,  they  were  at  once  met  with  inquiries  as  to  the  accounts  of 
the  white  men  said  to  have  been  seen  on  the  Strait. 

Hall  remained  at  these  islands  from  the  7th  to  the  16th  of  the 
month,  partly  to  obtain  supplies  of  walrus-meat  for  the  continuance  of 
his  journey,  but  chiefly  to  get  from  the  natives  all  further  information 
he  possibly  could,  for  or  against  the  statements  he  had  received.  On 
the  journey  lie  had  sprained  his  left  leg  while  climbing  over  the  rough 
ice,  and  this  confined  him  to  his  bed  for  several  days.  While  Ebier- 
bing  went  to  Ig-loo-lik  for  dog-food,  the  natives  employed  Hall's  dogs 
in  their  own  service,  their  stock  having  nearly  all  been  swept  away  by 


April,  IS6S.J  Conversations  about  the   White  Men.  339 

disease.  A  large  number  of  visitors  came  around  him,  the  village 
since  his  arrival  having  swelled  its  population  to  the  number  of  one 
hundred.  After  questioning  many  of  the  people,  at  first  separately 
and  then  at  a  time  when  quite  a  party  were  gathered  in  his  igloo,  he 
was  further  strengthened  in  his  belief  of  what  he  had  heard  about  the 
white  men  seen  on  the  southern  shores  of  the  Strait.  He  seems  to 
have  really  expected  that  he  would  soon  find  some  of  Franklin's  men 
still  alive. 

The  details  of  his  conversations  were  written  out  with  great  care 
in  a  full  journal,  which  was  irrecoverably  lost  in  some  unaccountable 
way  just  before  his  setting  out  on  the  Polaris  Expedition  of  1871. 
From  a  partial  copy  of  this  journal,  made  at  his  request  by  his  friend 
Mr.  J.  J.  Copp,  of  Groton,  Conn.,  the  notes  have  been  taken  which  are 
to  be  found  in  Paper  "B"  of  Appendix IV.  This  copy,  made  by  Mr. 
Copp  in  books  "A"  and  *'  B"  especially  for  the  use  of  Lady  Franklin, 
was  sent  over  to  that  estimable  lady  just  before  Hall  left  the  United 
States  on  his  last  ill-fated  voyage.  Indorsed  by  him  "to  be  retained 
by  her  in  trust  for  a  time,"  it  has  been  courteously  returned  by  her 
niece.  Miss  Sophia  Cracroft,  for  use  in  the  preparation  of  this 
Narrative. 

Some  of  the  striking  points  in  these  conversations,  which  increased 
Hall's  enthusiasm,  and  in  his  judgment  justified  him  in  prosecuting 
this  journey,  will  be  found  in  Appendix  named  The  story  may 
be  summed  up  in  brief  as  follows :  Although  he  could  not  meet  with 
Kia,  for  he  had  been  killed  by  a  walrus,  he  learned  from  Koo-loo-a,  a 
native  whom  he  found  to  be  trustworthy,  that  when  he  had  been  hunt- 
ing all  around  the  country  between  Grarry  Bay  and  the  northwest 
cape  of  Melville  Peninsula,  he  had  seen  an  In-nook-shoo  (a  monument) 


340  The  Clothing  and   Walk  of  the  Men  Seen.         lAprii,  jssy. 

oil  the  south  side  of  a  river  emptying-  into  a  bay  near  tlie  Cape  Ellice 
of  Dr.  Rae,  and  a  little  west  of  this  a  cache  of  stones,  -which  had  been 
opened  and  its  stones  tlirown  aside.  It  showed  freshness,  and  was 
without  a  sign  of  meat  having  been  deposited  there.  Koo-loo-a  did  not 
think  an  Innuit  had  built  it,  or  tliat  any  native  before  his  visit  had 
ever  gone  up  so  far  from  Garry  Bay.  He  had  been  with  Kia  when 
the  latter  saw  the  strange  man.  The  man  had  a  cap  on  his  head, 
separate  from  his  overcoat,  which  had  a  hood.  Kla  had  kept  the 
stranger  in  sight  for  some  time,  often  hiding-  himself  behind  the  rocks : 
he  had  also  then  heard  the  discharge  of  a  gun. 

From  the  time  that  Kia  first  gave  this  account  to  Koo-loo-a,  it 
had  been  believed  b}'  all  the  Innuits  in  the  region  of  the  Oo-glit 
Ishinds,  and  they  all  now  expressed  to  Hall  their  confidence  in  it. 
Besides  such  reports,  others  also  of  as  strange  a  character  were 
offered — of  strangers  having  been  seen  in  places  nearer  to  Ig-loo-lik, 
and  of  sounds  having  been  repeatedly  heard  like  those  from  the  dis- 
charge of  a  gun,  and  at  places  too  far  from  the  ice  to  have  been  the 
result  of  the  ice  cracking.  The  strangers  had  at  first  been  taken  for 
JEt-her-Un  (Indians),  the  apprehension  alwa}s  entertained  by  Innuits 
in  regard  to  whom  had,  at  the  times  when  the  white  men  were  seen,  so 
frightened  them,  that,  at  every  appearance,  their  families  had  been 
removed  immediately  from  the  place.  This  was  the  invariable  testi- 
moii}',  as  was  also  the  description  of  the  clothing  worn  and  of  the  foot- 
prints examined  after  the  strangers  passed  by.  They  were  long  and 
very  narro\v  in  the  middle,  with  deep  places  at  the  heel.  The  tread 
of  the  footste|)s  Avas  outward 

Ibill  could  not  liclj)  connecting  in  mind  tlie  storv  of  the  ship's 
mast  and  beam  on  the  shores  of  Pelly  Bay,  the  monument  spoken  of 


April,  1868.)         From  the  Oo-glit  Islands  to  CroMer  River.  341 

by  Sce-pitng-er,  and  the  one  now  seeming-  to  exist  on  the  north  shores 
of  the  Strait,  as  hnks  in  connection  with  the  strange  appearances  of  the 
men,  their  dress,  and  footsteps.  Some  of  Franklin's  men  must,  lie 
thought,  have  crossed  over  eastward  to  Parry's  old  region  in  the  for- 
lorn hope  of  reaching,  perhaps,  Cumberland  Inlet  and  being  rescued 
by  some  vessel  from  Old  England ;  and  they  might  be  still  alive,  for 
the  last  date  of  these  stories  was  1^64. 

Leaving-  the  islands  early  on  the  1  6th,  with  Koo-loo-a  as  a  trust- 
worthy guide,  he  passed  by  Ping-it-ka-lik,  crossed  from  that  place, 
over  land  so  level  and  smooth,  that  it  was  difficult  to  tell  it  was  not  a 
lake,  and  made  his  first  new  igloo  on  Hooper  Inlet,  about  half  a  mile 
from  shore.  The  day  following,  making  a  fair  progress  across  the 
inlet,  he  came  to  an  old  deserted  igloo,  in  which  a  dead  fox  was  found. 
Koo-loo-a  built  up  a  pillar  of  snow,  on  the  top  of  which  he  left  the 
animal  erect,  its  tail  standing  straight  out  and  two  of  its  legs  in  the 
position  for  walking,  in  which  they  had  been  found.  Tracks  of  the 
wolf,  the  deer,  the  fox,  and  of  partridges  were  seen.  Near  the  islands, 
at  the  head  of  the  inlet,  tidal  action  was  seen  to  have  made  the  ice 
very  rough. 

Their  next  igloo  was  built  on  Quilliam  Creek,  at  the  early  hour 
of  2  a.  m.  of  the  17th.  From  the  head  of  this  creek,  they  en- 
deavored to  shorten  their  route  to  the  west  branch  of  Crozier  River, 
but  the  roughness  of  the  land,  compelling  them  to  make  zigzag 
courses,  prevented  any  gain  of  time.  Koo-loo-a  pointed  out  on  the 
southern  side  of  the  river  a  place  where  e-ker-lu  (salmon)  abound,  and 
said  that  Parry  had  caught  many  there  at  his  tenting-place. 

Upon  Crozier  River  they  passed  through  a  magnificent  gorge 
from  50  to  75  feet  in  width,  to  avoid  some  impassable   snow-drifts  in 


342  Grinnell  Lake  and  Brevoort  River.  [Apm,  isos. 

which  they  put  on  their  rue-raddies,  (harness),  helping  the  dogs  up  a  very 
steep  hill,  and  then  descending  swiftly  into  the  river-bed ;  and  after  fur- 
ther delays  among  the  rough  rocks  which  pushed  up  through  the  ice, 
at  6.30  p.  m.  they  built  an  igJoo  on  the  river.  Hall  immediately 
climbed  a  high  peak  in  the  range  of  mountains  before  him,  from  which 
he  had  a  fine  view  of  the  suiTOunding  country.  On  the  east  was  an 
extensive  plain ;  on  the  north,  the  high  land  about  Hooper  Inlet ;  and 
southward  and  westward,  mountains  after  mountains  rose  in  confused 
masses :  a  pass  seemed  to  open  itself  about  ten  miles  to  the  south. 

On  the  19th,  the  travel  u})  the  river  was  continued  as  far  as  the 
lake  from  which  it  flows,  after  riding  on  the  smooth  surface  of  which 
more  than  five  hours  they  built  their  fourth  igloo  Hall  named  the 
lakelet  Grinnell  Lake ;  during  the  night  the  cracking  of  the  ice  on  it 
sounded  like  continuous  artillery.  Not  a  sign  of  life  had  been  seen 
since  leaving  Quilliam  Creek ;  and  Koo-loo-a  told  Plall  that  no  other 
Innuit  knew  this  route,  which  he  had  discovered  when  hunting. 

At  noon  of  the  next  day,  on  the  western  end  of  Grinnell  Lake, 
they  found  a  large  open  pool  with  no  anchor-ice  on  its  bottom  rock. 
Salmon  were  swimming  in  it.  To  the  little  stream  which  ran  from 
this  lake  Hall  gave  the  name  of  Brevoort  River.  A  lakelet  into 
wliifli  it  expanded  being  found  to  be  covered  with  water  with  nnu  Ii 
tliiii  ice  over  it,  a  passage  was  made  over  the  land  until  the  river  was 
again  entered,  when  the  traveling  became  very  fatiguing  through  the 
soft  snow,  wliicli  wns  melting  under  the  southerly  winds.  PLall's  limb 
was  now  so  painful  as  to  compel  him  to  ride  nearly  all  tlio  time,  and 
he  could  make  but  few  observations ;  but  his  next  igloo  was  made 
near  the  spot  where  Koo-loo-a  "  saw  the  tracks  of  white  men  and  heard 
the  report  of  a  gun  more  than  thirteen  years  before."    The  day  follow- 


SXOW-GOGGLES. 


April,  1S6S.]  Discovery  of  ^^ New  IslamV  343 

ing"  they  came  to  a  frozen  cascade,  15  feet  in  lieiglit,  where  the  river 
seemed  to  have  cut  its  way  through  soHd  granite  GO  feet  wide  and  25 
feet  high,  and  a  few  hours  afterward  they  passed  out  upon  the  bay,  and 
built  their  sixth  igloo  on  the  ice  of  the  sea  of  Ak-koo-lee,  lat.  69°  47'.5. 
The  next  day  was  one  of  rest  for  the  Innuits,  who  were  suffering  from 
snow-blindness.  Hall  made  for  them  a  wash  of  sugar  of  lead  and 
laudanum.  From  a  piece  of  driftwood  J^oo- 
loo-a  made  eye-shades.  In  company  with 
Frank  Lailor,  Hall  looked  carefully  from  the 
top  of  Cape  Englefield  for  any  signs  of  white 
men,  but  could  see  none ;  he  made  his  own 
monument  on  the  Cape — a  pile  of  three  large 
stones,  the  lowest  resting  on  his  clay  pipe.  A  hawk  was  seen,  and 
tracks  of  deer,  of  bears,  and  ermine  were  numerous  ;  on  the  ice  were 
many  regular  paths  worn  in  the  snow  by  the  bears,  but  no  animal 
showed  himself  to  the  travelers  The  jumps  of  the  little  ermine  in  the 
snow  showed  that  they  had  been  full  six  feet  each. 

Early  on  the  23d,  most  of  the  stores  were  deposited  in  an  igloo^ 
over  which  "a  flag  was  left  swinging  in  the  wind  to  keep  off  the  bears," 
when  the  whole  company  started  down  the  coast  to  visit  the  monu- 
ment described  by  Koo-loo-a;  but,  on  his  being  taken  sick,  the  visit  was 
arrested  for  that  day.  Out  on  the  sea  was  a  long  line  of  fog,  showing 
itself  to  the  south  as  far  as  the  eye  could  follow  it  Koo-loo-a  said 
there  was  open  water  there  all  winter,  and  that  many  walrus  were 
caught  there.  Land  now  discovered  by  Hall  west-northwest  from 
Cape  Englefield  proved  to  be  a  long  low  island.  Koo-loo-a  said  that 
bears  were  often  killed  on  it  while  wintering  under  the  snow. 

Of  this  discovery  his  little  note-book  of  the  evening  says:  ''On 


\u 


The  Monument  Found. 


[April,  1S6S. 


getting  to-day  to  the  heights  of  land  overlooking  New  Bay,  Parry 
Bay,  Cape  Crozier,  and  Fury  and  Hecla  Straits,  the  sight  of  a  New 
Long  Island  to  the  westward,  so  carried  me  away  that  I  Avas  sweeping 
to  the  right  and  left  with  my  glass  before  I  again  had  a  thought  of 
monuments  or  other  traces  of  the  lost  ones." 

On  the  24th,  the  search  was  made  for  the  monument  and  cache. 
The  monument  was  found  and  the  place  of  the  cache  pointed  out,  but 

the  latter  ivas  covered  hy  a  huge  hank  of 
snow.  Hall  thus  describes  the  location 
of  the  monument :  "  On  either  side  of 
the  plain  on  which  it  stands  is  a  river, 
and  hills  of  delta  are  northeast  of  it. 
It  is  100  feet  above  the  sea,  and  near  a 
hill  upon  the  south  side  of  the  plain. 
The  hill  looks  not  unlike  an  inverted 
whale-boat  when  seen  at  a  little  dis- 
tance from  the  northwest."  While  he 
made  a  sketch  of  the  monument, 
Frank  Lailor,  with  an  iron  snow-knife,  tried  to  cut  down  thi'ough  the 
bank  to  t!ie  (-ache,  but  found  the  snow  as  hard  as  ice. 

To  leave  nothing  undone  to  find  the  buried  cache-stones.  Hall 
nriw  moved  down  and  built  his  igloo  near  it,  and  on  the  25th  renewed 
witli  Fiank  Lailor,  with  some  assistance  from  Ebierbing  who  was 
suffering  with  rheumatism,  the  severe  work  of  cutting  down  into  the 
snow-bank.  They  all  labored  hard  for  many  hours,  cutting  down  to 
the  depth  of  If)  feet  with  their  iron  snow-knives,  until,  as  Ebierbing 
has  lately  said,  "  they  sweated  in  the  cold  from  licad  to  foot."  ]5ut  it 
was  impossiljlc  to  find  tlie  cache. 


MOXL'.Ml'NT  FOUND   BY  HAIX. 


April,  1SG8. 


A   Tenting- Place  of  White  Men. 


345 


Too-koo-li-too  and  Ebierbing,  about  the  same  time,  found  two 
tenting-places  which  presented  strong  contrasts.  Tlie  first  tent,  the 
traces  of  which  Too-koo-li-too  called  to  them  to  observe,  had  been  ob- 
long, as  shown  by  four  stones,  weighing  each  from  25  to  35  pounds, 
used  to  hold  down  its  corners ;  rows  of  smaller  stones  were  in  the  po- 
sitions where  they  had  served  to  secure  the  sides.     The  dimensions  of 


hall's  sketch  op  the  coast-line  neak  the  monument. 
the  tent  had  been  9  feet  by  6.     Hall's  Innuit  companions  assured  him 
that  white  men    must   have    built  it.     An  Innuit  tenting-place  close 
by,  showed  the  unquestionable  marks  of  its  builders   by  its  stones 
being  found  arranged  in  their  invariabl}^  circular  form. 


o46  HalTs  Position  Higher  than  liae's  Highest.  [April,  ises. 

The  rough  notes  of  the  two  days  of  this  visit  are  worth  a  Hteral 
transcribing,  and  are  here  given,  omitting  only  Hall's  astronomical 
observations,  and  some  sketches  of  less  importance  than  those  shown 
by  the  cuts.  The  spot  visited  had  not  been  reached  by  any  previous 
Arctic  explorer.  Parry's  officers  were  not  on  this  western  side  of  the 
peninsula,  and  Dr.  Rae's  highest  point  was  69°  5'  35"  N.  (Rae's  Narra- 
tive, p.  128).  And  it  may  be  justly  remarked  here  that  it  is  to  be 
regretted  that  Hall's  visit  should  have  been  recently  discredited,  and 
this  before  his  full  statements  could  be  published.  The  latitude  of  his 
encampment  here  was  69°  47'  5"  N.,  long.  85°  15'  W. 

Literal  Copy  of  HalVs  Notes. 

Apeil  24. — Koo-loo-a  requested  to-day  that  I  would  take  a  look  with  my 
spy-glass  in  a  certain  direction,  after  we  had  tramped  four  hours  over  hill,  lake, 
ravine,  and  through  deep  snows.  I  looked,  and  sighted  a  monument  above  the 
snow.  Koo-loo-a  and  Frank  took  a  look  through  the  spy- glass,  the  former 
declaring  that  the  monument  he  saw  was  at  the  head  of  a  bay  not  then  in  sight. 
Dr.  Eae  could  not  possibly  have  made  this  monument  and  cache,  for  they  both 
belong  together ;  the  latter  covered  with  a  deep  drift  every  winter,  and  when 
Eae  was  at  Cape  Crozier  in  May,  1847,  the  bank  of  snow  must  have  been  as  dee]) 
and  hard  as  the  one  now  there.  Besides,  Dr.  Eae's  track-chart  does  not  show 
that  he  visited  the  southeast  angle  of  Parry  Bay.  To-morrow  morning,  I  remove 
with  my  party  to  the  monument. 

Koo-loo-a  told  Hannah  that  when  he  first  saw  this  monument  thirteen  years 
before,  it  was  then  fresh,  and  now  looks  old.  When  he  found  it  and  the  cache- 
stones  under  the  bank,  he  told  all  the  Innuits  of  his  strange  discovery.  No  In- 
nuit  could  have  made  it.  A  hole  was  dug  out  of  the  rocks  and  something  de- 
j)Osited  in  it.  Afterward,  the  stones  covering  the  cache  were  thrown  all  in  a  pile 
on  one  side,  and  the  dej^osit,  whatever  it  was,  taken  out. 

Apeil  25.-- This  morning  we  leave  our  seventh  igloo  here  and  move  down 
to  tljc  iiioimnient,  to  make  all  investigations  possible  relating  to  it,  and  try  our 
best  to  liud  I  he  ca<;lj('-.stones  buried  in  a  huge  snow-bank  tluit  lies  over  tlie  steep 
bank  of  ground  running  alongside  of  the  i)laiu  on  the  margin  of  which  is  the 
ijKMiuiiieut. 


April,  1868.J  Bough  Notcs  of  the  24:th-26th.  347 

8  a.  ra. — Passing  aloug  from  seventh  encampment  toward  Cape  Crozier,  the 
monument  is  distinctly  visible  with  the  glass.  I  and  Frank  commenced  at  once 
with  our  snow-shovels  to  cut  out  snow-blocks  from  the  heavy  bank  just  west  of 
the  monument  in  search  of  the  cache-stones.  Koo-loo-a,  from  his  remembrance  of 
the  situation  of  the  monument  and  cache-stones,  has  shown  us  where  to  dig. 

10.5  a.  m. — Hannah  has  found  the  tenting-place  of  white  men — an  oblong 
tent  and  four  fresh  upturned  stones,  one  at  each  corner,  to  make  fast  the  lines  of 
the  tent ;  the  stones  show  an  age  since  turned  up  out  of  their  bed  the  same  as 
monument  stones. 

10.30. — Joe,  in  searching  around,  has  found  another  tenting-ijlace.  Frank 
and  myself  were  busy  raising  blocks  when  Joe  called,  and  then  we  all  ran  where 
he  was,  and  have  just  made  our  investigations.  Theae  stones  are  in  a  circular 
form,  and  evidently  the  tenting-place  of  Innuits  within  ten  to  fifteen  years. 
Hannah  said  if  a  fire-place  could  be  found  within  the  tent-circle  then  they  were 
Innuit  tenting  places,  and  at  last  a  fire-place  was  found  within  one  of  the  circles — 
black  on  the  back  of  the  fire-place ;  a  stone  that  had  formed  one  side  was  loos- 
ened and  turned  up  by  Hannah  and  found  black  with  smoke.  Koo-loo-a  found  a 
large  stone  in  j)roiier  position  for  holding  the  line  keeping  up  the  entrance  to 
the  tent;  as  Ig-loo-lik  people  make  their  tents.  Joe,  Hannah,  and  Koo-loo-a  are 
sure  the  oblong-shaped  tenting-place  and  the  stones  at  the  corners  and  outside 
row  of  small  stones  tell  the  truth,  that  Innuits  never  did  thatw^ork.  The  contrast 
particularly  striking  between  the  tenting-place  of  the  whites  and  that  of  the 
natives.  A  small  stump  of  a  tree  found  in  the  circle  of  an  Innuit  tenting-place, 
and  not  decayed,  but  white  with  age,  showed  hard  life  among  the  ice  of  the  sea 
of  Ak-koo-lee. 

Evening  notes. — All  day  we  have  been  hard  at  work  cutting  out  snow- 
blocks  in  search  of  the  cache-stones,  but  in  vain.  One  would  Ije  greatly  de- 
lighted to  see  the  excavations  and  upturned  blocks  all  around  made  in"  searching 
for  lost  cache  stones.        *         *         * 

20^/t. — Joe  and  Hannah,  being  well  acquainted  with  white  men's  ways,  are 
as  certain  as  is  Koo-loo-a  that  white  men  had  an  encampment  here. 

Having  with  them  provisions  for  two  days  only.  Hall's  party 
were  forced  to  return  to  their  sixth  igloo  First,  however,  he  took 
down  the  monument  stone  by  stone,  yet  without  finding  any  record 
or  sign  to  tell  with  more  certainty  who  had  built  it.     Koo-loo-a  "was 


348  Survey  of  the  Northwest  Coast.  lAprii,  ises. 

the  most  disappointed  one  of  the  party,  for  he  expressed  honest  fears 
that  lie  would  be  thought  to  have  told  a  falsehood."  Yet  his  charac- 
ter for  entire  truthfulness  had  been  and  still  remained  unquestioned ; 
Hall  saA's  he  had  previously  ''sharply-tested  this  man."  He  left  the 
spot  with  the  assurance  that  his  search  for  the  evidence  of  white 
men's  having-  lived  a  struggling  life  in  those  regions  had  not  been  in 
vain,  for  they   had  found  a  monument  and  tenting-place   made   by 

WHITE  MEN. 

From  astronomical  observations  and  compass-bearings  he  now 
determined  the  coast-line  between  Cape  Englefield  the  most  western 
point  of  the  Strait  sighted  by  Parry,  and  Cape  Crozier  the  most 
northern  reached  by  Rae  in  1847;  by  which  survey  he  may  be  justly 
said  to  have  filled  up  this  broken  line  of  the  Admiralty  chart  for  the 
northwestern  part  of  Melville  Peninsula  at  and  below  the  western  outlets 
of  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait.  This  was,  at  least,  a  liberal  compensation 
for  the  disappointment  keenly  felt  on  leaving  the  spot  without  rec- 
ords or  closer  traces  of  white  men. 

Just  before  again  reaching  their  igloo,  Koo-loo-d's  sharp  eyes  spied 
a  hole  in  it,  and  as  the  tracks  of  a  wolverine  had  been  already  seen, 
alarm  was  taken  for  the  safety  of  their  provisions  On  coming  nearer, 
walrus-hide,  meat,  and  blubber  w^ere  seen  scattered  here  and  there  on 
tlie  ice ;  but  on  Hall's  breaking  open  the  door,  he  found  that  the  ani- 
mal had  but  scratched  two  or  three  little  holes  through  the  snow-plat- 
form and  dragged  out  the  articles  without  carrj^ing  them  into  its  hole. 
A  delay  of  one  day  more  would  probably  have  cost  the  party  the  loss 
of  all  their  food. 

Not  satisfied  to  give  up  the  search  for  Franklin's  men  whom  he 


May,  KSGs.j  VisU  to  AmJiefst  Island.  349 

still  buliovcd  that  lie  might  iind  yet  living,  he  next  examined  the 
southern  shores  of  the  Strait,  and  endeavored  to  cross  to  the  northern 
coast,  hoping  also  to  make  some  geographical  determinations  there. 
The  exceeding  roughness  of  the  ice  permitted  him  to  advance  on 
foot  only,  with  one  companion  and  one  dog.  From  the  main  island 
of  a  group  in  the  mouth  of  the  Strait  he  took  additional  observations, 
bearings,  and  sextant  angles,  to  fix  the  position  of  the  new  island  to 
the  northwest  of  Cape  Englefield  On  the  south  side  of  the  islet  on 
which  he  stood,  the  rock  appeared  to  have  been  polished  to  the  height 
of  50  feet  above  the  sea  by  the  moving  ice-masses.  The  whole  strait 
was  filled  with  rugged  ice,  pack  and  old  floe,  some  of  the  old  floe 
pieces  a  mile  square;  one  small  unbroken  floe  was  plainly  of  the 
formation  of  the  year  previous.  Old  floes  abounded,  full  of  hills,  val- 
leys, and  lakes,  nearly  all  denuded  of  snow,  and  covered  by  huge 
bergy  pieces  thrown  up  by  pressure  in  the  open  season.  The  Innuits 
said  that  occasionally  there  is  a  year  in  which  the  straits  are  entirely 
clear  of  ice.     "  Parry  and  Lyon  would  have  hailed  such  a  season." 

On  the  30th,  with  the  same  companion,  Frank  Lailor,  Hall  visited 
some  islets  off  Cape  Englefield,  searching  again  thoroughly  for  monu- 
ments or  other  signs  of  human  beings.  His  next  exploration  was  along 
the  southern  coast  as  far  as  East  Cape,  and  from  that  point  to  Parry's 
Amherst  Island,  0)i  which,  however,  he  found  nothing  really  indicat- 
ing that  any  one  had  been  there  of  late  years.  Three  flat  slate  stones 
were  seen  placed  on  each  other,  with  their  moss  side  down 

For  a  return  to  the  Oo-glit  Islands,  a  choice  was  to  be  made 
between  continuing  down  the  strait  and  their  outward  route  by  Quill- 
iam  Creek,  the  latter  ■  of  which  routes  was  taken  to  avoid  delay, 
which  the  roughness  of  tlie  ice  might  cause.     A  prompt  return  was 


350  Return  to  the  Oo-(jlU  Isles.  [inny,  iscs. 

necessary,  as  their  supplies,  made  up  at  first  for  fifteen  days  only,  had 
no\v  been  drawn  upon  nearly  three  weeks.  Finding-  an  easy  passage 
over  the  land  to  the  creek,  by  the  6tli  of  May  they  had  rapidly  fol- 
lowed it  down,  and,  passing  through  Hooper  Inlet,  after  some  delays 
occasioned  b}^  the  softness  of  the  snow,  arrived  at  the  Oo-glit  Islands 
earh'  on  the  8th,  having  in  fifteen  hours  accomplished  a  journey  of  fifty- 
seven  statute  miles  from  their  last  lialting-place  on  the  ice  of  the  iidet. 
On  this  journey  the  ordy  living  thing  seen  was  a  crow.  They  had 
found  that  the  fox  which  had  been  set  up  on  the  snow  pillar  by  Koo- 
loo-a  had  been  carried  off  by  some  Innuit,  who  had  substituted  for  it 
the  shoulder-blade  of  a  walrus ;  tliis  dried  meat  was  relished  by  the 
hungry  return  party.  When  coming  near  the  Oo-glit  Isles,  Hall 
"looked  out  upon  a  long  impenetrable  cloud  of  blackness  overhang- 
ing the  iceless  waters  of  Fox  Channel.  The  wind  blowing  fresh  from 
the  south  and  tlie  aurora  actually  working  on  the  face  of  the  black- 
ness, made  it  seem,  as  we  approached  this  world  of  blackness,  as  though 
we  were  going  right  straight  into  the  lower  regions  in  the  literal  signifi- 
cant sense  of  the  word." 

The  population  of  the  village  was  now  again  increased  by  the 
cominsr  in  of  several  new  families  from  the  northeast  to  see  the 
stranger.  The  first  news  which  he  heard  was  the  loss  of  Ag-loo-ka 
and  liis  friend  E-nu-men,  who  were  irrecoverably  swept  away  while 
walrusing  on  the  ice;  the  next  was  that  another  native  had  further 
accounts  to  give  him  of  Kia!s  strange  white  man.  Hall  determined 
to  defer  a  proposed  geographical  exploration  of  the  strait  and  go 
over  to  Tern  Island  to  see  this  man.  Whatever  judgments  may 
now  be  ])assed  upon  his  persistence  in  this  search  foi-  Franklin's  sur- 
vivnrs,  liis  own  words  at  the  time  were,  "No  man,  knowing  what  I  do, 


May,  1S68.1  VisU  fo  Tcm  Islund.  351 

can  possibly  believe  otherwise  tluiii  that  part  of  the  lost  coni})aiiions 
of  Franklin  and  Crozier  have  been  living  for  several  years  on  Melville 
Peninsula."  But  while  preparing  to  visit  Tern  Island  he  made  a  survey 
of  the  Oo-glit  group.  Its  open  sea  was  rolling  its  high  waves  upon  the 
shore,  and  its  waters  were  ahve  with  walrus,  ducks,  and  sea-gulls — 
now-yers.  Thousands  of  ducks  filled  the  air  with  such  music  as  made 
the  place  anything  but  solitary. 

On  the  12th,  his  party,  w^ith  Papa  and  his  family  who  had  now 
rejoined  them,  set  off  for  Ig-loo-hk  and  Tern  Island,  but  when  near 
the  former  place  they  met  with  a  sister  of  Kia,  a  long  conversation 
with  whom  brought  out  facts  substantiating  the  same  old  story ;  at  Tern 
Island  the  new  friend,  Kud-loon,  gave  him  essentially  the  same  particu- 
lars. The  people  of  this  island  being  found  destitute.  Hall  shared  with 
them  some  of  his  supplies,  and  made  them  presents.  Confined  to  his 
hut  by  snow-blindness  (an-Tcoot-ed  for  it),  the  an-ge-ko  gave  as  a  reason 
for  his  sufferings  that  he  had  eaten  out  of  an  unsuitable  pan,  and  had 
visited  the  igloo  of  one  of  Koo-loo-a^s  wives  on  the  Oo-glit  Islands  at  a 
time  when  he  should  not  have  done  so.  Before  leaving  Tern  Island,  he 
bartered  needles,  thimbles,  fish-hooks,  &c.,  for  dogs,  intending  to  make 
an  exploring  journey  down  the  east  side  of  Fox  Channel,  but  again 
relinquished  such  an  object,  saying  he  had  at  last  been  able  to  conquer 
his  almost  uncontrollable  desire  to  discover  new  lands,  and  had  brought 
back  his  feelings  of  duty,  to  stick  to  the  mission  of  finding  out  about 
the  lost  white  men.  Nood-loo,  a  native  of  Ig-loo-Hk,  drew  for  him  the 
accompanying  sketch  of  Murray  Maxwell  Inlet.  This  inlet,  near  the 
east  end  of  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  he  learned,  is  in  reality  a  Sound, 
sweeping  round  to  the  eastward  and  forming  a  large  island. 

To  prosecute  yet  one  more  search,  on  the  18th  of  the  month,  in 


352 


TentiHjj-riace  on  Gifford  River. 


[May,  1S68. 


company'  with  Frank,  Fapa,  Tou-tee-che-uk,  liis  wife,  and  two  children; 
he  ])egan  a  journey  to  Parry's  "GifFord  E-iver,"  liaving  heard  in  con- 
versations subsequent  to  those  wdiich  have  been  referred  to  that  a 
tenting-place  and  otlier  signs  of  white  men  would  be  found  there. 
On  the  19th,  he  entered  tliis  river,  which  proved  to  be  really  an  arm 
of  tlie  sea,  receiving  several  rivulets  which  his  guide  said  are  filled 
with  salmon  in  the  autumn.  Its  Imuiit  name,  Kun-nuk-chi,  means  a  bay. 
On  the  northeast  shore  a  tenting-place  was  found,  of  which  Hall 
made  the  accompanying  sketch;  but,  with  the  exception  of  two  shot 

and  a  peculiar  arrangement 
of  the  stones,  there  was  no 
special  indication  of  its  hav- 
ing been  occupied  by  civil- 
ized men.  It  will  be  re- 
membered that  Parry's  men 
visited  it.  On  this  journey 
several  seal  agloos  were  seen, 
from  which  the  young  seals 
escaped,  but  a  skillful  Innuit  captured  a  full-grown  animal  while  he 
was  sleeping  and  sunning  himself  on  the  ice.     The  usual  strategy  had 


SCKAl'KK,    10   ATTKACT  THK   SEAL. 


been  exercised  of  hitching  the  body,  feet  foremost,  step  by  step,  to- 
w;u-<l  the  seal,  ;iiid  occasional!}-  laising  tlio  h(;ad   and   looking  around, 


iTiay,  is«8.]  Morc  Tollcs  with  the  Tnnuits.  353 

as  tlie  animal  constantly  does  when  on  the  watch,  the  man  then  drop- 
pmg  his  head  into  a  cat-nap,  and  finally  scratching  on  the  snow  with 
the  scraper,  which  is  made  for  this  purpose.  By  thus  imitating  the 
noise  which  the  seal  makes  with  his  flipper,  he  enticed  it  to  come 
near  him.     The  harpoon  was  then  swiftly  driven  in. 

By  noon  of  the  21st,  Hall  had  passed  through  some  severe  storms, 
but  was  again  near  Ig-loo-lik,  and,  after  holding  more  talks  through 
the  next  five  days,  prepared  to  return  to  Repulse  Bay.  For  his  sup- 
plies to  reach  that  place  he  found  it  necessary  to  take  great  care  of 
what  he  had  collected;  for,  with  a  new  experience  of  his  Iiniuit  friends, 
he  now  found  that  no  sooner  did  he  barter  for  walrus-meat  than  a 
crowd  rushed  into  his  igloo  and  devoured  it.  They  seem  to  have 
looked  upon  his  stores  as  inexhaustible,  and  felt  they  had  claims  upon 
him  for  the  information  given  in  the  long  talks  into  which  he  had  led 
them.  The  details  of  these  talks  fill  a  number  of  pages  in  the  books 
A  and  B,  heretofore  named.  They  were  essentially  repetitions  of  the 
conversations  in  April. 

An  intelligent  Innuit  named  Oong-er-luk  drew  for  him  just  before 
his  leaving  Ig-loo-lik  the  accompanying  sketches  of  the  coast  of  Fox 
Channel  and  of  Admiralty  Inlet.  They  have  been  reproduced  liter- 
ally from  Hall's  note-books.  The  Innuit  names  are  those  given  by 
Oong-er-luk  for  the  numbers  which  he  placed  on  his  maps.  His 
sketches,  with  those  drawn  by  Ar-mou,  Ou-e-la,  Papa^  and  In-nook-poo- 
zhe-jook  in  1869,  are  presented  as  specimens  of  Innuit  ideas  of  native 
localities ; — ideas  generally  found  to  be  very  correct,  as  it  will  be 
remembered  were  those  shown  by  the  map  drawn  by  the  woman  I-lig- 
liuk  for  Parry.  [See  also  Chapell's  letter  to  Hall,  page  ."^5  of  this 
Narrative.] 

S.  Ex.  27 23 


354 


Oong-er-luT^s  Maps  of  Fox  Channel. 


[May,  1868. 


SKETCH  OF  THE  NORTHEAST  COAST  OF  FOX  CHA^^NEL  BY  THE 

INNUIT  OONG-ER  LUK. 


1.  Ou-ker-Dar-chu.   {Never  frozen  chan- 

nel.) 

2.  Es-se-tu-e-.ju-a. 
3-3.  Too-ki-an. 

4.  Tej-see-u-ark. 

5.  Koo-be-nar-chu. 
6.'Ki  ki-tar-chti. 

7.  Kiid-gu-yer.     {Name  of  isle.) 

8.  Ar-kim-e-nun. 

9.  Ig-luk-ju-in. 

10.  Ken-niik-luk-ju-a. 

11.  Xoo-wier.     {Long  point.) 

12.  Is-shook-too. 

13.  Tik-ik-kun. 

14.  Ee-iik-ju-ar-cliu.    {A  mountain,  ateep 

on  all  sides  hut  one.) 
1.5.  Arng-u-yaru. 
IC.  Ing-nier-ing. 

17.  Noon-ee-tar. 

18.  Ear-kee. 

19.  Wear  chin. 

20.  Tee-ke-ra-chu. 

21.  Eak-pin. 

22.  Ki-erk-chu-ken. 

23.  Oo-glit. 

24.  E-pe-ii-tiu.  ( The  isthmus,  where  many 

of  the  Innuits  from  Northumber- 
land Inlet  died,  some  of  starvation, 
some  by  murder.  Tooloo-li-too^s 
sister  was  of  the  ones  Icillcd.) 


25. 
26, 
27. 
28. 
29. 
30. 
31. 
32. 
33. 
34. 
35. 
36. 
37. 
38. 
39. 
40. 
41. 
42. 
43. 


44. 


45- 


47. 
48. 
49. 
50. 


Shar-tuk-ju-a. 

King-ark-ju-a. 

Sliok-bur.     {Water  and  land). 

Tar-ri-o-ar-chii     {Bay.) 

Pce-lig.     ( Where  river  enters  bay.) 

Ee-soo-e-too.     {Small  lake.) 

Teg-suk-ju-a.    {Large  lake.) 

Ar-ten-ni-eii. 

Oii-le-chee- wa-chu . 

In-iiook-she-lik.     {Lake  and  land.) 

Kung-ook-too. 

Mi-iik-too-le-ai-chu.     {Bay.) 

Ned-lu-ark-ju-a. 

Ki-ki-tar-loo.     {Name  of  the  two  isles. 

Man-uk-toe. 

Am  g- m  ark -j  u  -  a. 

Kig-gur-wig. 

Nug-lee-we-too. 

Shartoo. 

{Between  43  and  44  f 9  Skeoch  Bay  of 

Parry'' s  chart.) 
Kop-e-e-we.    ( Cape  Elwyn  of  Parryh 

chart.) 
40.  Sed-ler.    {The  land  southeast  and 

east   of  Cape   Konig  of  Parry'' s 

chart.) 
See-er-wark  jii. 
Im-me-yay-too. 
Ki-nk-tar-bin. 
Wall-ing-yer. 


NOTES   WRITTEN   DOWN   BY   HALL   FROM   DICTATION   IJY    OONG-ER-LUK. 

From  Shartoo  (43)  to  the  "  higli  land"  of  sketch,  it  would  take  six  days  with 
dogs  and  an  unloaded  sledge,  the  dogs  going  fast.     As  Innuits  generally  travel, 


SKETCH  OF 

4        (  N.E.COAST  or  TOX  CHANNEL 

B^-  riic  Inmiil    Ooiig-  er  -luk 
JJrawn  May  Z:^'--^  ISrtN 


May,  J  868.] 


Oong-er-liik^s  Map  of  Admiralty  Inlet. 


355 


with  fiiinilies  and  lioiiseliold  goods,  it  would  take  fifteen  days ;  so  say  Innuits  that 
have  lived  for  many  summers  all  along  the  coast  sketched.  I  think  the  distance 
from  Shartoo  (43)  to  said  high  land  to  be  from  250  to  300  miles.  From  Ned-lu- 
ark-ju-a  (37),  old  man  Non-le  ar-ju  says  one  can  see  the  mountain  which  is  near  to 
the  very  large  lake  which  is  on  the  route  Innuits  take  in  traveling  and  voyaging 
from  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too's  country  (Too-nuk-jok-ping,  Northumberland 
Inlet)  to  Ig-loo-lik.  The  large  river  which  runs  from  said  lake,  called  Kook-ju  a, 
is  more  than  half  way  from  Too-nuk-jok-ping  to  Ned-lu-ark-ju-a  (37).  A  woman, 
very  smart  and  intelligent,  by  the  name  of  A-mcr-goo  (wife  of  Binnn-Jiinf/),  tcho 
came  from  Northumberland  Inlet,  says  that  when  the  party  she  accompanied  from 
her  country  to  Ig-loo-lik  left  the  mouth  of  the  great  river  that  runs  from  Kook- 
Ju-a  (the  Great  Lake),  it  took  eight  days  to  get  to  E-pe-u-tin  (the  peninsula  of  24) 
in  their  oo-mi-en  (great  family  boat).  Much  of  the  land  was  verj^  low,  and  when 
the  tide  ebbed  they  used  to  let  their  boat  take  the  ground  instead  of  trying  to 
get  to  the  shore,  for  they  had  to  stand  far  out  from  it  to  keep  in  water  that  only 
at  flood-tide  was  deep  enough  to  float  their  craft.  On  getting  to  24,  the  Innuits 
always  make  portage,  instead  of  going  so  far  as  to  round  the  long  land  (25). 


SKETCH  or  TOO-NOO-NEE  NOO  SHUK,   OK   ADMIKALTY   INLET,  BY 

OONG-ER-LUK. 


1.  Too-joo. 

2.  See-goo-ar. 

3.  Ok-ke-oge-nim. 

4.  Koud-loo-too. 

5.  Sing-i-ze-oke-big. 
G.  Kun-idi-luar-chii. 

7.  Kok-oo-lii-in. 

8.  Kun-uk-lu-ar-chu. 

9.  Shoo-uk-te-lik. 

10.  Ouk-bar-too. 

11.  Tel-ler-ar-chu. 

12.  Eke-pe-ar-chii. 
13-13.  Ki-uk-tar-zhu. 
14-14.  Noo-win. 

15.  Oo-look-shun.      {Naiivcs    live    here 

mncli  when  ice  is  (/one.) 

16.  Eke-pe-ar-chii. 


17-17.  Piit-tar-te-lik. 

18-18.  Kun-nuk-too.     {A  hay.) 

19-19.  Ki-ki-tou-kin. 

20.  Ki-ik-tun-ten  al-loo. 

21.  Ki-ik-tun.    {The island.) 

22.  Se-er-wok-te-n. 

23.  Eve-ju-ar-chin. 

24.  Ang-no-quo-zham. 

25.  Now-yarn. 

20.  Eke-ink-ju-ar-chin. 

27.  Ok-big-seer-ping. 

28.  In-niik-too-big, 

29.  E-ter-be-in, 

30.  Sed-no-wa-ling. 

31.  Sed-no-way-silk. 

32.  Ed-ird<-ju-in. 

33.  Tee-kee  ra-chii. 


356  Map  of  Admiralty  Inlet.  [May,  ises. 


34.  Ki-ki-tar-zhu. 

35.  Kub-lo-e-tit. 

36.  Too-ler-kiit. 

37.  She-mina;. 


38.  Tin-nee-je-va-loo. 

39.  Oo-pung-ne-vring. 

40.  Kun-ne-i-rung.     {Natives  live  much 

of  the  time  here.) 


NOTES  WRITTEN  DOWN  BY   HALL   FROM  DICTATION  BY   OONG-ER-LUK. 

The  width  of  the  bay  not  so  great  at  and  near  the  entrance  as  farther  in. 
One  medium  day's  good  drive  with  dog-sledge  from  one  side  of  the  bay  to  the 
other  in  its  general  width.  The  trend  of  bay  not  exactly  north  and  south,  but 
little  to  the  northeastward  and  south  westward. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  inlet  early  spring  whaling  might  be  prosecuted,  for  a 
great  many  whales  are  always  seen  close  to  the  bay-floe  by  the  natives  as  early 
as  April  and  May.  Ice  out  of  the  whole  bay  every  year,  and  then  there  are  a 
great  many  black  whales,  white  whales,  and  narwhals  all  over  the  bay.  Very 
good  anchorage  for  ships  at  16  and  other  places  in  the  bay  (18-18).  Good  for 
ships  in  6,  8,  10,  and  12.  High  land  and  deep  water  about  and  in  18-18.  Innuits 
in  the  summer  kill  whales  in  18-18.  ^o  rough  ice  in  the  bay  Too-noo-nee-roo- 
shuk ;  all  smooth  floe.  Xo  icebergs  or  other  heavy  ice  finds  its  way  into  this 
great  bay,  for  it  all  sweeps  onward  with  the  current  in  Barrow  Strait  to  the  east- 
ward. When  the  wind  is  from  the  east,  and  the  ice  is  driven  westward,  for  some 
reason  it  does  not  drive  down  into  the  bay.  Coast  on  the  west  side  nearly 
straight,  and  without  any  indentations.     High  land  on  west  side. 

After  the  ships  have  all  left  Too-noo-nee  (Pond's  Bay),  having  finished 
whaling  by  the  floe  there,  then  is  the  good  time  to  see  a  great  many  whales  in 
the  great  bay  of  Too-noo-nee-roo-shuk.  Once  a  whale  was  found  in  the  bay  of 
T.  K.  by  the  natives  which  was  dead,  with  lines  and  harpoons  in  it.  A  great 
many  narwhals  killed  by  Innuits  at  T.  K.  and  their  horns  taken  by  them  to 
Pond's  Bay  and  bartered  off  to  the  whalers. 

The  RETURN  to  Repulse  Bay  was  now  begun.  Leaving  the  Oo- 
glit  Islands  on  the  31st  of  May,  Hall  further  examined  a  new  bay  which 
he  had  discovered  and  a  lake  on  the  southwest,  into  which  he  crossed 
by  a  short  portage.  Whenever  the  weather  permitted,  and  so  far  as 
his  very  defective  instruments  enabled  liim  on  this  part  of  his  jour- 
ney and  until  he  reached  Haviland  Ba}-,  he  made  a  rough  survey  of 
the  whole  route.     But  the  injured  condition  of  his  compass  and  sex- 


Oi 


BAIUiOW       STRAIT 


SKETCH  OF 


ADMIRALTY  INLET 

By  Oong-er-luk 
DrawnMaj  23''-''l868. 


June,  1868. J  The  Ttccs  Near  Ilojjpner^s  Creek  357 

taiit  and  tlie  interruptions  by  rain  and  storm  and  by  his  own  suffer- 
ings, prevented  his  observations  from  being-  more  than  approximate. 

Arriving  on  the  east  side  of  the  head  of  Iloppner  Inlet,  he  found 
three  small  streams,  in  one  of  which  was  an  abundant  growth  of  wood 
in  a  cluster  of  undergrowth  showing  some  creeping  trees  which  spread 
themselves  out.  One  of  these  was  1 1  feet  in  length  and  2  inches  in 
diameter  at  the  base.  It  was  seen  that  ''  where  a  portion  of  the  tree 
in  its  creeping  position  pressed  hard  upon  the  earth,  it  had  sent  down 
numerous  branches  of  roots."* 

The  river  where  this  wood  is  in  such  abundance,  empties  itself 
into  the  one  by  which  he  was  encamped  just  before  it  enters  the  head  of 
Hoppner's  Creek.  "  It  comes  down  a  wild  ravine,  having  steep  mount- 
ain-high sand-banks  on  either  side."  Hall  wrote  with  these  words : 
''When  the  lakes  have  their  ice  loosened,  all  the  three  rivers  will  pom- 
down  their  living,  dancing  waters,  when  salmon  will  greatly  abound 
where  fresh  and  salt  water  mingle."  He  was  at  the  time  heartily  tired 
of  walrus,  deer-meat,  and  tood-noo.  "His  mouth  watered  in  vain  for 
salmon,"  which  Papa  and  Hannah  had  failed  to  secure. 

He  explored  the  region  between  the  head  of  this  inlet  and  Lyon's 
Inlet,  and,  striking  across  the  land  to  Haviland  Bay,  arrived  on  its 
banks  on  the  24  th,  crossed  on  its  thin  ice  on  the  day  following,  at 
times  through  water  a  foot  deep,  and  at  4  a.  m.  of  the  26tli,  regained 
his  encampment  at  Tal-loon ;  the  sledge  journey  had  been  one  of 
ninety-six  days.  It  was  a  satisfaction  to  find  the  white  men  whom  he 
had  hired  in  full  health.  His  dogs,  too,  were  in  as  good  condition  as 
when  they  had  started  out.     His  Innuit  friends  gave  him  a  present  of 

*  For  a  most  interesting  account  of  trees  growing  still  further  north,  some  of  them  3  feet 
in  diameter,  found  iu  a  ravine,  see  Osborn's  account  of  McClure's  Northwest  Passage ;  also, 
Meacham's  report  of  the  trees  found  on  Prince  Patrick  Island,  in  lat.  76°  15',  long.  121°  40/ 


358  Successful  Salmon-Fishing.  [jmy,  ises. 

salmon,  some  of  which  measured  32  to  37  inches  in  length,  weigh- 
ing from  9  to  13  pounds  eacli. 

The  record  of  the  two  remaining  summer  months  presents  as  inci- 
dents of  special  interest  a  successful  season  for  salmon-fishing  and 
deer-hunting;  the  very  unfortunate,  though  justified,  shooting  of 
one  of  the  five  hired  men ;  and  the  capture  of  another  whale,  the  pos- 
session of  which,  together  with  renewed  supplies  from  friends  in  the 
United  States,  encouraged  Hall  to  hope  that  he  could  remain  over 
still  another  year  and  yet  reach  King  William's  Land.  In  this  it  will 
be  found  he  succeeded  in  the  following  spring. 

A  supply  of  salmon  had  always  been  an  object,  as  well  for  the 
change  which  it  offered  from  the  unvarying  rough  Arctic  food,  as  for 
the  value  of  the  fish  when  dried  and  stored  for  the  winter;  but  up  to 
this  time  little  success  had  rewarded  the  best  efi'orts  made  by  Hall  and 
his  hired  men  either  with  their  nets  or  spears.  The  Innuits,  through 
long  practice,  were  experts  in  spearing,  and  they  seemed  to  have  gen- 
erally considered  the  fishing-grounds  as  their  exclusive  property. 

The  notes  of  July  20  record  a  determination  not  to  be  outdone 
in  the  work.  Hearing  that  they  were  securing  very  many  fish  and 
Ills  men  very  few.  Hall,  though  quite  ill,  jumped  from  his  bed,  and 
quickly  dressing,  ordered  eacli  of  his  company  to  repair  promptly 
their  sadly  broken  spears,  for  he  would  see  whether  white  men  could 
be  so  easily  beaten  ;   "  one  need  not  starve  while  such  food  abounds." 

As  the  tide  was  about  fo  flood,  it  became  necessary  to  make  great  haste  or 
our  ehauce  would  be  lost  till  next  ebb  ;  so  every  one  worked  with  a  will.  When 
the  spears  were  in  order,  [  organized  my  men  into  a  regular  fish-fighting  com- 
I»any,  and  then  into  the  deep  pools  all  in  line  we  plunged,  or  in  fact  waded  thigh 
deep.  The  Innuits  had  all  left,  each  having  caught  as  many  as  he  could  well 
attend  to,  except  Ar-goo-moo-too-IiJc,  whom  I  requested  to  desist  while  I  made  a 


jniy,  1868.]  TJiB  Mutiviy.  359 

trial  with  my  men  alone.  In  one  Lour  from  the  time  we  entered  the  ice-cold 
water  we  had  e\'ery  spear  broken,  so  that  not  one  in  a  dozen  salmon  struck  could 
be  saved.  Then,  all  in  a  hne,  behind  and  by  the  side  of  onr  net,  waist-deep  in 
the  pool,  we  marched,  dragging  the  net  and  driving  the  salmon  like  sheep  before 
us.  When  well  advanced  to  the  upper  end  of  the  pool,  the  water  was  found  to 
be  black  with  floundering  fish.  Having  reached  a  narrow  place  where  the  net 
stretched  from  shore  to  shore,  and  penned  in  the  salmon  completely,  myself,  Joe, 
Frank,  and  all  the  rest  except  Antoine,  who  played  sick,  went  to  work  scooping 
out  salmon,  and  in  a  few  minutes  caught  one  hundred  and  seventy-five,  the  total 
weight  of  which  exceeded  1,000  pounds,  for  the  greater  number  were  quite  large. 

The  Innuits  acknowledged  themselves  beaten.  Hall  attributed 
his  success  to  the  use  of  his  excellent  Brevoort  net,  with  which  he 
thought  he  would  have  even  doubled  the  number  taken  if  he  had 
been  allowed  the  first  chance  at  the  pool. 

A  most  unhappy  record  is  now  to  be  made.  From  the  date  of  his 
return  from  Fur}^  and  Hecla  Strait  some  dissatisfaction  seems  to  have 
been  growing  among  the  hired  men  whom  he  had  left  at  the  encamp- 
ment when  setting  out  on  that  journey.  They  had  been  lacking  in 
their  care  of  the  stores,  backward  on  going  out  on  the  hunts,  and  tardy 
when  absent  on  these,  as  well  as  hurtfully  careless  in  feeding  the  dogs. 
The  ill-feeling  manifested,  by  several  of  them  toward  Hall,  arising  pos- 
sibly from  the  uncertainty  as  to  the  time  when  any  ships  would  appear 
in  the  bay  to  take  them  to  their  homes,  culminated  in  the  unfortunate 
affair  which  is  best  presented  in  his  own  words : 

July  31. — Gave  Peter  his  order  to  take  my  rifle  and  go  on  a  deer-hunt,  and 
to  take  along  Antoine  and  Pat,  and  show  them  where  a  certain  deer  he  had  killed 
and  deposited  was,  and  have  them  bring  it  in.  The  party  started  off  at  10  a.  m. 
A  short  time  after,  sent  Sam  out  to  get  a  deer- skin  and  the  buck-meat  my  Joe  had 
left  on  his  way  home  yesterday.  At  7  p.  m.,  Sam  returned,  having  been  unsuc- 
cessful in  finding  my  Joe's  bundle,  and  at  8  p.  m.  Antoine  and  Pat  returned,  and 
a  few  minutes  later  Peter  came  in,  having  seen  no  deer.     Asked  Antoine  how  far 


360  IlalVs  Account  of  the  Mutiny.  [jniy,  ises. 

lie  should  think  it  was  to  where  he  and  Pat  got  the  deer  they  brought  iu  ?  An- 
swer, ten  or  twelve  miles.  When  Peter  came  in,  I  asked  him  how  for  it  was  to 
the  deer-deposit  Antoine  and  Pat  brought  in,  and  he  said  about  the  same  as  the 
musk-ox  deposit,  six  and  a  half  miles,  to  where  we  went  directly  on  the  23d.  I 
asked  him  if  he  did  not  think  that  Pat  and  Antoine  could  have  performed  the 
service  I  sent  them  on  in  a  little  more  than  half  the  time  of  ten  hours  ?  Answer, 
that  he  thought  they  could.  I  proceeded  to  the  men's  tent,  and  asked  Antoine 
and  Pat  if  they  could  not  have  made  better  time  in  the  work  they  performed 
today ?  They,  with  much  temper,  replied  they  could  not.  I  told  them  what 
Peter  had  told  me,  and  said  that  it  became  them  to  be  as  expeditious  as  possible 
whenever  I  had  work  for  them  to  do,  reminding  them  of  their  spending  a  whole 
day  a  short  time  since  in  going  out  only  some  two  miles  after  a  couple  of  deer, 
when  they  might  have  done  the  same  in  one-fourth  of  the  time.  This  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  burst  of  real  mutinous  conduct  on  the  part  of  Pat  and  Antoine,  to 
which  demonstration  Sam  and  Peter  seemed  to  be  a  x>arty.  Pat  icas  the  leader, 
and  I  felt  for  my  own  safety  that  something  must  be  done  to  meet  so  terrible  a 
blow  as  seemed  ready  to  fall.  I  appealed  to  Pat  especiallj^  to  stop  his  mutinous 
talk  and  conduct.  I  was  alone,  though  a  small  distance  off  were  all  the  Innuits 
of  the  tent-village  looking  upon  the  scene.  Pat  was  standing  in  the  door  of  the 
tent  (he  and  Antoine,  when  I  first  went  into  the  tent,  were  seated  in  it,  but  as 
their  rage  increased  they  worked  themselves  out  to  be  in  a  circle  of  the  other  two), 
where  he  was  delivering  himself  of  the  most  rebellious  language  possible.  I  made 
an  approach  to  him,  putting  my  hand  up  before  him,  motioning  for  him  to  stop. 
Ik'  at  once  squared  himself,  doubling  up  his  fists  and  drawing  back  in  position, 
as  it  were,  to  jump  upon  and  fight  me.  Failhig  to  make  liim  desist  without  forci- 
ble means,  I  thought  at  first  to  give  him  a  good  drubbing,  but  knowing  Pat  to 
be  of  a  powerful  frame  and  muscle,  and  that  if  I  did  make  an  attempt  I  should  at 
once  have  a  party  of  four  upon  nje,  I  demanded  of  Peter  my  rifle,  which  he  gave 
me.  I  hastened  to  my  tent,  laid  down  the  rifle,  and  seized  my  Baylie  revolver, 
and  went  back  and  faced  the  leader  of  the  mutinous  crowd,  and  demanded  of  Pat 
to  know  if  he  would  desist  in  his  mutinous  conduct  ?  His  reply  being  still  more 
threatening,  I  pulled  trigger,  and  in  a  few  minutes  he  staggered  and  fell.  I 
walked  dbectly,  but  more  as  a  man  then  suddenly  dreaming,  to  the  front  of  Papa's 
tent,  where  was  a  crowd  of  frightened  natives,  passed  the  pistol  to  the  hand  of 
Ar-mou,  which  still  had  four  undischarged  loads  in  it,  and  then  ran  back  and  as- 
Histed  in  getting  Pat  to  my  tent.  I  supposed  he  could  not  live  five  minutes,  but 
a  Mightier  liainl  tliaii  mine  liad  stayed  the  ball  from  a  vital  part. 


July,  I86S.]  Dcaih  of  Colemau.  361 

The  unhappy  man,  Patrick  Coleman,  lingered  from  the  31st  of 
July  until  the  14tli  of  the  following"  month,  during  the  whole  of  which 
time  every  effort  Avas  made  by  Hall  to  save  his  life  by  the  use  of  all 
remedies  at  his  command  and  by  the  most  careful  nursing,  in  which 
his  other  men  took  their  full  share.  Antoine  made  a  full  confession  of 
his  having  done  wrong.  The  Innuits  told  Hall  they  had  expected 
that  the  four  mutinous  men,  whom  he  had  encountered  at  the  time  of 
shooting  one  of  them,  would  attack  and  endeavor  to  kill  him,  and  that 
it  had  been  their  purpose  to  run  to  his  rescue. 

He  now  participated  in  the  anxious  uncertainties  felt  by  his  men 
as  to  whether  any  whaling-vessel  would  visit  the  bay  this  year;  and, 
if  not,  by  what  possible  means  he  could  reach  York  Factory  should 
his  hopes  of  making  a  final  journey  to  King  William's  Land  entirely 
fail  him.  As  far  back  as  the  29th  of  July  (before  the  mutiny)  he  had 
written  in  his  journal : 

I  know  not  whether  I  and  my  company  are  to  leave  these  regions  this  fall  or 
not.  Most  assuredly  I  have  had  no  doubts  but  we  should.  All  my  expectations 
and  calculations  have  been  to  this  point;  but  now  as  I  look  out  upon  Repulse  Bay 
and  see  it  still  fast  in  its  ten  months'  icy  chains,  I  must  confess  I  begin  to  have 
doubts.  Many  times  a  day  I  ascend  our  lookout  hill  to  take  long  and  prolonged 
looks  through  my  "spy"  down  to  the  southeastward,  in  the  direction  of  the  per- 
petual open  water  that  sweeps  through  Hurd's  Channel  and  Frozen  Strait  across 
to  Beach  Point,  and  thence  rushes  down  Eowe's  Welcome.  No  ship  there  afar  off 
to  gladden  my  sight.  It  has  been  my  plan  that  if  none  should  enter  Repulse 
Bay  by  the  5th  of  August,  I  would  embark  in  our  boat  Sylvia  for  York  Factory. 
But  will  it  be  prudent  to  attempt  the  voyage  in  this  boat?  I  know  that  Dr.  Eae 
made  a  successful  voyage  here  from  that  place,  and  the  next  year  returned  to  it. 
But  his  boats  were  large,  heavy,  and  strong,  and  the  Sylvia  is  of  the  lightest  con- 
struction possible ;  her  planks  of  cedar  one-half  inch  thick  only. 

During  the  illness  of  Colemnn,  it  was  found  out  that  at  least  one 
of  the  other  four  men  had  said  if  he  could  not  otherwise  get  a  boat 


3G2  Release  of  the  Siirvhnng   White  Men.  [August,  ises. 

he  would  steal  one,  and  go  to  York  Factory  with  his  fellows.  Hall  him- 
self, under  the  force  of  circumstances,  had  gained  Ar-mou^s  consent  to 
have  the  Lady  Franklin  for  their  use,  promising  that  the  Sylvia  should 
be  at  Ar-moit^s  service  so  long  as  he  should  still  remain  in  the  country. 
But  on  the  IGth  he  was  relieved  from  these  anxieties  by  the  sight  at 
anchor  of  the  Ansell  Gibbs  and  the  Concordia.  The  four  men  were 
notified  that  they  could  make  what  arrangements  they  pleased  for 
their  return,  and  they  all  promptly  shipped  on  these  vessels,  Lailor, 
-whom  Hall  always  commends,  and  on  whom  he  had  somewhat  counted 
on  to  remain  another  year,  shipping  last  of  the  party.  Hall  gave  to 
each  a  certificate  of  his  having  served  through  the  year  and  his  note 
for  the  payment  due.  As  for  himself,  although  he  found  that  he  coidd 
make  very  few  purchases  from  these  vessels  for  his  still  expected  jour- 
ney to  King  William's  Land,  he  determined  to  stay.  Mr.  Grinnell  had 
sent  liim  some  further  supplies,  and  he  would  once  more  depend  on  his 
own  labors  and  on  the  friendly  Innuits. 

The  first  encouragement  which  followed  this  determination  was 
the  capture  of  another  whale  on  the  31st  of  August.  For  this  the 
natives  were  as  anxious  as  himself  The  blubber  was  needed  for  fuel, 
the  skin  for  food,  and  the  meat  chieily  for  the  dogs.  When  a  fine  rising 
of  a  coveted  prize  was  now  seen  in  the  harbor,  the  native  crews  of  the 
Sylvia  and  the  Lady  Franklin  were  quick  to  give  chase  under  Hall's 
orders,  and  on  tlie  Lady  Franklin's  nearing  the  whale,  Ar-mou  splen- 
di(ll\'  tlirew  two  irons  into  its  flank,  but  unhappily  not  until  the  bow 
of  the  boat  liad  struck  the  animal  a  few  feet  abaft  the  fins.  From  the 
swiftness  witli  wliicli  tlie  line  ran  out,  it  was  clear  that  the  whale  had 
struck  for  soundings.  But  suddenly  the  line  ceased  to  run  and  the  boat 
began   to   iii(»v(^    uloiig  with   great   rapidit}',  the   line   still  slack;  she 


Augiisil,  ISUN. 


A  Second   Whale   Caj/fund. 


careened,  and  was,  at  last,  tlirown  completely  on  her  beam  ends,  the 
explanation  of  which  was  that  the  whale  had  rnshed  along'  with  the 
boat  on  its  back.  It  was  no  wonder  that  at  the  time  every  man  thought 
himself  lost.  But  before  long  the  boat  righted,  the  oars  on  one  side 
being  cracked;   one  of  them,  destroyed. 


It  was  an  hour  from  the  first  blow  until  the  whale  spouted  blood 
and  ended  the  struggle  'Svitli  thunder-claps  from  its  broad  tail  upon 
the  waters."  The  natives  on  shore,  while  watching  the  fight,  went 
through  an  cm-koot-wg  performance  for  its  successful  issue.  They 
aided  in  hauling  the  whale  up  on  land,  and  began  their  feast  from  it 
that  night  at  supper.  Two  days  later,  the  whole  company  of  men, 
women,  and  children,  numbering  more  than  fifty,  went  hard  to  work 
making  deposits,  when  the  women  cut  up  and  carried  in  their  hands 
masses  of  the  meat;  the  men  dragged  or  carried  on  their  shoulders 


364  Deer-Hunting  at  Tdlloon.  [September,  ises. 

blubber  and  meat;  the  children  "bolted"  pieces  of  the  black  skin; 
and  trains  of  dogs  pulled  "horse-pieces"  up  the  steep  rocks.  For 
cooking-  some  of  the  meat,  iires  of  bone  and  oil  were  made,  the  Innuit 
customs  forbidding  the  gathering  of  wood  at  such  times  for  fuel. 
Dried  bones  found  scattered  around  were  collected  in  a  fire-place, 
which  was  only  a  few  stones  supporting  a  kettle,  the  bones  answering 
the  purpose  also  of  a  wick,  and  a  very  hot  and  sooty  fire  being  thus  kept 
up.  The  longest  blades  of  bone  of  this  whale  measured  seven  feet; 
all  were  willingly  and  unanimously  given  by  the  natives  to  Hall. 
The  cache  was  made  at  Iwillik. 

On  the  1 2tli  of  September,  a  removal  was  made,  with  few  of  the 
natives,  to  the  west  side  of  Talloon  Bay,  where  they  spent  the  rest  of 
the  month  and  the  month  following  chiefly  in  deer-hunting.  Hall 
himself  on  one  day  shot  five  deer  in  five  minutes,  and  Too-koo-li-too 
became  quite  a  marksman. 

November  4  a  journey  was  undertaken  to  Lyon's  Inlet  to  de- 
termine the  location  of  some  places  in  regard  to  which  Hall  had  not 
been  satisfied  with  Parry's  chart.  His  companions  were  his  old 
friend  Papa-teiv-a,  with  one  of  his  wives  and  a  child ;  his  team  was 
made  up  of  ten  dogs.  On  the  12th,  the  part}-  were  at  the  head  of 
Haviland  Bay;  on  the  14th,  Ross  Bay  was  crossed,  and  on  the  17th 
an  encampment  made  on  the  south  shore  of  a  peninsula  to  which  the 
natives  gave  the  same  name  with  their  northern  settlement — Ig-loo-lik. 
Here  Hall  busied  himself  with  the  surve}'  of  the  coasts  and  an  exami- 
nation of  the  channel  called  by  Parry  the  Rush  of  Waters.  Visiting 
the  site  of  a  stone  pile  spoken  of  by  Captain  Parry  as  put  up  for  de- 
])0sitiiiga  memorandum  in  tlie  absence  of  Mr.  Sherer,  one  of  the  ofiicers 
of  liis  Second  expcflitiuii  (1821),  Hall  fi)nnd  it  still  undisturbed.     Re- 


ivoTcnibcr,  1868.]  Joumcy  to  LijoyCs  Inlet.  365 

maining  for  some  days  in  this  locality,  he  discovered  and  surve}'ed  a 
creek  called  by  the  Innuits  Nee-bar-bic.  He  then  learned  that  there 
was  another  bay  on  the  east  side  of  Lyon's  Inlet  corresponding  in  lati- 
tude to  Parry's  Norman  Creek,  and  was  thus  able  to  understand  some 
difficulties.  Parry  had  erroneously  given  the  Innuit  name  of  his  Nor- 
man Creek  as  Neeb-wa-wik,  the  y)ronunciation  of  which  is  close  to 
that  of  Nee-bar-bic.  When  Hall  had  heard  of  this  last  creek  from  the 
Innuits  he  had  taken  it  to  be  Parry's  Norman  Creek,  and  could  not 
understand  that  the  distinguished  navigator  had  placed  this  ien  miles 
out  of  position ;  it  was  the  application  of  the  Innuit  name  only  which 
was  wrong.  He  was  gratified  by  the  discovery  of  a  new  creek  in  an 
inlet  which  Lyon  had  so  thoroughly  examined  that  he  thought  no  arm 
or  branch  had  been  overlooked ;  but  believed  that  the  approach  had 
been  hidden  from  these  officers  by  a  high  island. 

When  the  party  wished  to  encamp  at  night  on  the  14th  of  the 
month,  they  took  possession  of  a  newly-deserted  igloo.  It  was  dark 
at  4  p.  m.,  when  they  entered,  but  soon  afterward  an  Innuit  known 
as  Tom  came  in  with  his  child  from  one  of  his  deer-meat  caches.  He 
brought  the  news  that  Ar-tung-iin — the  man  who  at  Ig-loo-lik  had 
once  exchanged  names  with  Hall — was  at  the  point  of  death  in  a  vil- 
lage a  little  northward.  Hall  visited  him  the  next  day,  but  found 
that  the  poor  consumptive  was  past  saving,  and  was  insisting  that  his 
son  should  end  his  sufferings  by  stabbing  him  or  by  shooting  him  with 
an  arrow,  against  which  Hall's  earnest  interposition  was  ineffectual. 
The  igloo  which  he  had  been  occupying  had  been  built  by  Ar-tung- 
un^s  son,  that  he  might  remove  to  it  instantly  on  his  father's  death, 
and  so  avoid  the  loss  of  several  days  of  mourning.  The  day  follow- 
ing he  hung  his  father. 


366  Injured  Instruments.  [Norember,  ises. 

The  note-books  of  this  journey  are  filled  up  with  the  minutest 
details  of  the  visits,  of  the  observations  attempted,  of  their  computa- 
tions, and  of  the  perplexities  into  which  Hall  found  himself  driven  by 
the  severity  of  the  cold,  the  changing  season,  and  the  injuries  renewed 
to  his  instruments,  preventing  the  accuracy  he  so  much  desired  for 
his  work. 

The  notes  of  the  night  of  the  15th  of  the  month  say: 

Tried  my  best  to  make  observations  for  latitude  (►f  Jupiter,  but  though  not 
a  cloud  in  the  heavens,  yet  the  stars  shine  dimly  and  fine  snow  is  falling.  Usu- 
ally the  sky  is  called  hazy  when  it  is  really  diffused  aurora. 

Again,  on  the  20th : 

Nothing  causes  me  greater  regret  than  the  poor  instruments  I  have  in  the 
way  of  sextants.  At  nine  this  evening  the  heavens  became  clear,  and  I  tried 
my  best  to  get  some  good  observations  of  Jupiter,  though  he  had  passed  the 
meridian.  By  several  observations  I  could  determine  the  latitude,  but  that  only 
could  I  make.  The  silvering  on  the  glasses  is  all  cracked  by  the  frost  of  several 
winters  of  the  North. 

On  the  28th,  the  moon  at  8  p.  m.  was  covered  with  a  hazy 
atmosphere,  but  was  gloriously  surrounded  by  several  circles:  the 
outer  one  of  rose  color,  then  a  lesser  one  of  pea-green,  then  lilac,  and 
then  a  knob  of  radiant  light  like  the  sun's.  The  outer  circle  was 
about  S*^  in  diameter. 

His  pocket-chronometer  having  provokingh^  stopped,  he  devised 
a  plan  for  detecting  a  repetition  of  the  fault;  this  was  to  place  the  chro- 
nometer in  his  hood  and  next  his  right  ear.  The  fob  was  made  by  one 
of  the  Innuit  women  out  of  rabbit  and  deer  skin.  From  the  time  he 
rose  till  he  retired,  the  instrument  lay  next  his  ear  as  in  the  safest  and 
most  convenient  place  considering  the  calls  upon  it.  When  keeping 
it  next  his  heart,  it  was  warm  and  safe  from  any  sudden  jar. 


^ 


November,  1S68.]  DiscoveHes  Mcide  in  1868,  3G7 

The  exposures  to  which  lie  had  been  agam  subjected  on  his  jour- 
ney held  him  close  for  a  day  or  more  in  his  igloo,  where  he  wrote  on 
the  25th :  "  Snatches  only  of  sleep  have  I  had  for  several  nights.  In 
noting  down  my  work  as  well  as  in  taking  observations,  I  have  had 
my  right  thumb  frost-bitten,  and  that,  when  I  did  not  know  it."  The 
aurora  of  that  date,  the  finest  of  all  he  had  witnessed,  he  could  not 
attempt  to  describe. 

The  29th  of  the  month  saw  him  back  in  his  old  quarters  on  the 
bay.  In  a  letter  to  the  President  of  the  American  Geographical 
Society,  written  after  his  return  to  the  United  States,  reviewing  the 
geographical  explorations  he  had  made  on  the  two  journeys  of  this 
year,  he  claims  the  discoveries  of  a  new  inlet,  lat.  G7°  N.,  long.  84^ 
30'  W.,  a  few  miles  north  of  Norman  Creek;  a  bay  on  the  west  side  of 
Fox  Channel,  lat.  69°  N.,  long.  81^  30'  W.;  a  lake  twenty-five  miles 
in  length,  lat.  68°  45'  N.,  long.  82°  W. ;  and  a  second  lake,  in  lat.  69° 
35',  fift}^  miles  in  length,  with  its  two  outlets,  the  lake  running  par- 
allel with  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait.  Also,  two  islands  :  one  northwest 
of  the  west  end  of  that  strait  and  the  other  at  its  east  end.  What  he 
considered  accomplished  of  the  most  importance  geographically,  was 
the  completion  of  the  coast-line  around  the  northwest  side  of  Melville 
Peninsula  to  Cape  Crozier.  The  bay  now  discovered  was  said  to  have 
an  entrance  from  Barrow  S  ,  lat.  73°  43'  N.,  long.  83°  W.,  and  to 
extend  very  nearly  in  a  southerly  direction  to  about  the  71st  degree 
north  latitude.  The  natives  had  assured  him  that  at  times  they  killed 
in  it  five  whales  in  a  day,  and  that  it  abounded  in  the  smooth-back 
{Balcena  mysticetus)  and  in  narwhals  and  seals.  It  was  free  from  ice 
every  summer,  and  promised  to  be  of  as  much  value  to  whalers  as 
Cumberland  Sound. 


SGS 


Winter  Quarters  at  TaJloo)/. 


[December,  1S6S. 


Eeturning  from  the  last  of  these  surveys,  made  as  has  been  seen 
after  the  full  setting  in  of  the  cold  of  November,  Hall  had  before  him 
a  period  of  four  months  to  be  passed  through  before  a  sledge  trip  for 


the  Franklin  Records  could  be  renewed.  The  first  half  of  this  period 
was  spent  in  rest  and  amid  the  winter  festivities  of  the  natives ;  the 
second  iialf  was  a  time  of  the  severest  labor  and  fatigue  in  preparing 
provisions  for  his  next  and  last  journey  before  returning  to  the  United 
States. 


January,  i>s«9.i  Tile  NoowooJc  Nativcs  at  Iwillik.  369 

The  villag-e  near  wliicli  he  quartered  himself  now  contained  one 
hundred  and  twenty  inhabitants,  a  number  to  wliich  it  had  suddenly 
risen  by  the  coming  in  of  some  from  Lyon's  Inlet,  who  had  heard  of 
the  whale  captures. 

December  and  January  were  spent  by  this  people  in  a  round  of 
amusements,  feastings,  and  gynmastics.  A  low  kind  of  gambling, 
spoken  of  as  "  whirling  a  trigger,"  was  supplemented  by  renew^ed 
an-'koo-ting  jjerformances,  all  of  which  were  broken  in  upon  at  times 
by  long  and  weary  journeys  through  snow  and  ice  to  renew  from 
their  deposits  exhausted,  supplies  of  food.  The  natives,  as  was  to  be 
expected,  were  often  very  improvident,  voraciously  consuming  a  load 
of  as  many  as  five  deer  in  an  hour  after  bringing  them  in,  and  then 
suffering  from  absolute  want.  On  the  first  day  of  the  new  }'ear,  the 
fifth  which  Hall  had  now  spent  in  the  North,  he  entertained  at  din- 
ner all  those  who  had  been  with  him  through  his  first  winter  at 
Noo-wook.  Ten  of  the  forty-two  had  died,  and  but  two  children  had 
been  born. 

He  was  aided  by  the  natives  during  the  w^inter  more  fully  than 
ever  before,  no  alienations  such  as  have  been  sometimes  referred  to 
again  occurring;  but  his  chief  difficulty  seems  to  have  been  an  excess  of 
cordiality  on  their  part,  which  broke  in  upon  him  while  working  up 
the  observations  made  on  his  trip  to  Lyon's  Inlet.  His  igho  was 
sometimes  filled  with  men,  women,  and  children,  keeping  up  a  constant 
jabbering,  humming,  crying,  and  begging ;  noises  which  made  him 
say  that  if  he  could  have  some  retirement,  it  would  be  the  blessing  of 
an  earthly  heaven.  They  often  gave  him  further  disquiet  by  unscru- 
pulously laying  hands  on  his  own  stores — never  asking  leave. 

Fapa  Tew-a,  on  one  of  the  bleak  days  of  January,  drew  for  him, 
S.  Ex.  27 24 


370 


Pa-pa^s  Sketch  of  Pond's  Bay. 


[January,  ISGO. 


in  his  igloo^  the  accompan3'ing    sketch    of    Pond's  Bay,  Hall  writing 
down  fi-om  dictation  the  names  corresponding  to  Pa-pa's  numbers. 

SKETCH  OF  POND'S  BAY,  DRAWN  BY  THE  INNUIT  PAPA. 


1.  Too-e-joo. 

L'.  Oo-gla. 

'^.  Discharging  glacier. 

4.  4.  Too-loo-yer. 

5.  Grounded  icebergs. 
G.  Sliar  too. 

7.  Ing-nnt-ta-lik. 

8.  Large  and  high  grounded  iceberg. 

9.  Ou-kee-lee-ark-tung.      {The    penin- 

sula.) 

10.  Ou-u-ee-too.     {Glacier.) 

11.  A  bay  abounding  in  whales. 

12.  A  roof-like  hill,  on    an    extensive 

plain. 

13.  Koo-ook-ju-a.     {A  very  high  water- 

fall; tenting -place  there.) 

14.  E-te-u-yer. 

15.  Two  remarkable  rocks. 

16.  Too-noo-nee. 

17.  Kung-e-er-a. 

18.  Neer-ker-oon. 


19.  See-er-wok-too-u. 

20.  Too-arn. 

21.  Ung-raa. 

22.  Kik-kik-te-ting-nim. 

23.  Kik-kik-tuk-jua. 

24.  Im-me-le.     {LalxC  on  this  isle.) 

25.  E-e-la.     {Something  Mice  a  windoio  in 

mountainside.) 
20.  A  head  of  whalebone  just  below 
low  tide. 

27.  Kim-e-big. 

28.  Too-loo-karn.     {Four  isles.) 

29.  Kook-win-ar-loo. 

30.  Toong-win. 

31.  Kin-e-loo-kun. 

32.  Ee-we-shar. 

32.  Ee-ark-ju-a.    {The  point;  a  very  high 

mountain  and  the  wind  heard  con- 
stantly roaring  at  its  top. 

33.  Small  island. 


From  natives  of  the  inlet  he  received  some  singular  accounts  of 

minerals  found  there. 

Native  iron  in  great  abundance.  Stones  that  are  of  very  fine  grain,  look 
pretty,  and  stand  upright;  the  same  being  long,  slender,  and  like  round  sticks  of 
wood ;  some  elastic,  that  is,  will  bend.  Also  a  great  many  pretty  stones  that  are 
transparent,  just  as  clear  as  crystal,  like  the  sun-glass  given  to  Ar-lca-too.  From 
the  desciiption  of  some  of  these  stones,  or  I  should  say  of  some  other  kinds  which 
are  also  like  glass  in  appearance,  I  cannot  well  comi)reliend  what  they  be,  for  JLr- 
Ica-too  says,  as  the  sun  is  shining  on  them,  if  the  hand  shadows  them,  away  they 
go  down  in  the  ground,  appearing  to  act  as  though  alive.  By  great  carefulness 
Innuitshave  succeeded  in  catching  now  and  then  some  of  these  wonderful  stones, 


sk?;t(h  of 
PONDS   BAY 

l)yth(^  IiniTiii  Vixi^a 
l)i*awii  ill  Jan.  1869 


[■<cbruaiy,  J869.  Minerals  JfoM  Admiralty  Inlet.  371 

and  wbenever  tUcy  do  thus  succeed,  the  stones  are  hard  and  glass-like.  This 
seems  to  l)e  myth-like  to  me,  but  some  one  in  the  States  may  find  this  matter 
explainable.        *         *         * 

Since  \vritin.i>  the  above,  I  have  looked  into  the  Admiralty  Manual  of  Sci- 
entific Inquiry  and  Ibund  the  following :  "  With  regard  to  dimorphism,  or  the 
crystallization  of  the  same  chemically  composed  substances  in  diiferent  forms 
*  *  *  ,  right  rhomboidal  crystals  of  sulphate  of  nickel  exposed  in  a  vase 
to  the  sun  were  found  changed  in  the  interior  without  passing  through  the  liquid 
state  into  octahedrons  with  a  square  base,  the  exterior  crust  of  the  original  crys- 
tal retaining  its  first  form."    (Pp.  251  and  252,  edition  of  1851.) 

That  there  is  something  peculiar  in  these  crystals  of  Admiralty  Inlet  that 
makes  all  the  Innuits  there,  and  all  distant  lunuits  who  have  heard  about  them, 
think  they  are  sometimes  as  though  alive,  I  do  not  doubt  from  the  deeply -inter- 
esting account  given  by  Ar-Tta-too. 

Early  in  the  month  of  January  the  natives  renewed  their  seaHng 
on  the  ice  of  the  baj^,  and  Hall's  party  again  fixed  their  headquarters 
at  Talloon,  in  a  commo^lious  igloo  built  on  a  lakelet,  where  a  well  of 
pure  water  was  easily  made  near  the  bed-platform  of  the  hut.  The 
igloo  was  made  comfortable  for  eleven  inhabitants.  It  was  carefully- 
lined  with  skins  hung  within  five  or  six  inches  of  the  snow- walls,  mak- 
ing inside  of  it  a  tupik.  This  main  building  was  an  oval  22  feet  long, 
13  wide,  and  8  feet  high,  and  was  connected  by  a  tooh-soo  (passage-way). 
It  had  six  store-liouse  huts.  The  floor  of  the  passage-way,  as  usual, 
was  lower  in  the  middle  than  either  at  the  doorway  or  at  the  entrance 
of  the  main  building.  A  door  of  hard  snow  for  each  store-house  was 
fitted  into  a  casemate  of  the  same  "  pure  white  marble." 

In  these  quarters  the  chief  business  of  February  and  of  March  was 
the  drying  of  venison  over  the  native  lamps — a  slow  and  very  laborious 
process.  While  this  was  going  on,  the  door-ways  were  closed,  and 
five  lamps  whose  united  length  of  wick  was  fifty-six  inches,  were 
kept  blazing  day  and  night,  consuming  78  pounds  of  blubber  a  week. 


3 7 'J  Preparation  of  Pemmican.  marvu,  isao. 

Bv  coiitiiiuino"  tlie  work  nearly  every  day,  170  pounds  of  thoroughly 
(h-icd  meat,  l'(\u'.\\  to  (J-SO  pounds  of  the  fresh,  were  obtained.  This, 
mixed  witli  (ood-xoo  was  good  pemmican.*  For  a  sufficient  sup})ly  of 
food  for  the  dogs  on  the  journe}^  Hall  was  soon  to  undertake,  he  was 
dependent  on  the  natives,  who  with  great  difficulty  caught  for  him  a 
^\  ah-us  far  out  on  the  ice.  His  liealth  was  better  than  at  any  previous 
time  of  his  residence  in  the  North;  he  Jirirr  had  a  touch  of  scurvy. 
His  thorougli  adoption  of  the  Innuit  dress  fully  protected  his  person, 
so  that,  with  the  exception  of  slight  frost-bites  on  his  face,  he  sustained 
no  bodily  injury  from  severe  exposures.  He  took  exercise  only  when 
necessary  to  procure  supplies  or  when  inclination  prompted; — never  for 
the  sake  of  exercise  purely:  but  he  found  his  strength  and  power  of 
endurance  to  increase,  as  is  shown  by  his  readily  walking  off  for  some 

*  Wlu'ii  Hall  left  tlio  United  States  in  18o4  he  contracted  for  r,00  pounds  desiccated  beef 
incorporated  with  500  pounds  of  beef-suet  tallow  and  put  up  in  tin  cans  of  25  pounds  each.  He  liad 
now  learned  tlie  value  of  this  iieunnican  in  days  bonleriug  on  starvation,  on  which  he  had  sonie- 
tiuu's  fallen.  Hence  his  great  labor  at  the  date  of  setting  out  linally  on  so  long  a  journey-  In 
this  connection  it  may  be  of  interest  to  refer  to  the  provision  made  by  the  distinguished  Arctic 
explorer  Richardson  when  setting  out  on  his  boat  voyage  through  Rupert's  Land  in  1H51.  The 
most  amjile  means  for  the  preparation  of  full  supplies  was  in  his  hands.  He  describes  it  follows: 
"A  rouiKl  or  bullock  of  beef  of  the  l)est  ([uality  having  be«'n  cut  into  thin  steaks,  from  which 
the  fat  and  the  meml)ranous  i)arts  were  pared  away,  was  dried  in  a  malt-kiln  over  an  oak-fire, 
until  its  moisture  was  entirely  dissipated  and  the  libre  of  the  meat  became  frial)le.  It  was  then 
ground  in  a  mall -mil!,  when  it  resendjled  tinely-grated  meat.  IJeing  next  mixed  with  nearly  an 
i-ipial  weight  (if  mclttMl  hcrf  suet,  or  lard,  the  preparation  of  i)lain  ]>emmican  was  complete;  but 
to  icndci-  it  muic  agrci-ahle  to  the  unaccustomed  palate  a  jiroportiou  of  the  best  Zante  eniiants 
was  aihlfd  to  pari  of  it,  ami  i)art  was  sweetened  with  sugar.  15oth  these  kinds  were  much 
approved  of  in  the  sequti  liy  the  con.sumers.  but  morr  rspctinlly  that  to  which  the  sugar  h;id  liem 
ailih'd.  After  the  ingredients  were  well  incorporated  by  stirring,  they  were  transferred  to  tin 
canisters,  capable  of  containing  85  ]»ounds  each;  and  having  been  firndy  rammed  down  and 
allowed  to  contract  further  by  cooling,  the  air  was  completely  expelled  ami  excluded  by  filling 
the  canister  to  the  ))rim  with  melted  lard  through  a  small  hole  left  in  the  end,  wliich  was  then 
covered  with  a  piece  of  tin  and  soldered  ui>. 

"The  meat  in  drying  loses  nutre  than  iluee-fourtiis  of  its  original  v.eight;  :?5,(!51  jiounds 
were  reduced  to  about  8,0(10.  *  The  natives  of  the  Northwest  dry  their  venison 

by  exposing  thin  slices  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  on  a  stage  inider  which  a  small  lire  is  ke])t,  more 
for  the  iiiir]>ose  of  driving  away  the  llics  hy  t  lu- smoke  ilmn  for  ]ironioliiig  exsiccal  iou,  and  then 
they  ])ound  it  iM^tween  two  stones  on  a  bison-hide.  In  tjijs  inocess  the  pounded  meat  is  contami- 
nated by  a  greater  or  smaller  admixt  ure  of  liair  or  ol  Ik  r  inii)urities." 


iTiai-ch,  I^s«!>.|  Readiness  for  Another  Sledge  Journey.  373 

distance  in  a  rue-rad-dy  (liarness)  with  a  sled-load  of  429  pounds,  the 
sled-shoeing-  of  which  was  iced  moss.  Healthful  occupation  of  the 
mind,  devotion  to  the  work  still  before  him,  and  a  continued  friendly 
intercourse  with  the  natives  and  participation  in  their  amusements 
and  hunts  were,  doubtless,  the  additional  causes  of  his  freedom  from 
sickness  and  casualty  during-  this  season,  as  they  had  been  through 
the  preceding  four  winters. 

By  the  21st  of  March  he  had  nearly  completed  his  preparations 
for  a  start.  To  secure  dogs  and  their  food,  three  trips  were  made  inland 
and  two  to  a  settlement  on  the  ice;  requiring  in  all  a  journey  of  170 
miles.  Nearly  six  hundred  balls  were  molded  over  a  coal-fire  in  a 
small  stove  belonging  to  Ar-moii.  The  stores  which  he  was  to  leave 
behind  were  placed  in  charge  of  his  Innuit  friends  to  whom  presents 
were  made,  the  packages  of  which  were  each  labeled  with  a  tag  having 
on  it  the  picture  of  an  animal,  as  a  help  to  Ar-moii's  memory  in  deliver- 
ing them  to  each  friend.  All  appear  to  have  been  at  this  time  cor- 
dial well-wishers  of  his  success,  a  goodly  number  of  them  being  pro- 
fessedly ready  to  go  with  him.* 

*They  were  probably  again  ready  ior  a  change.  The  two  })recc(liiig  months  had  been  to 
them  a  season  of  unusual  suffering  from  cold,  and  at  times  from  Avant.  But  few  seals  had  been 
caught.  The  severity  of  the  cold  had  been  experienced  throughout  a  fearful  gale  in  January, 
lasting  through  ten  consecutive  days;  and  in  February  there  was  the  unprecedented  occurrence 
of  a  burying  up  of  their  snovv'  village,  closely  endangering  the  lives  of  all  the  Innuits.  In  one  of 
the  huts,  a  child,  which  had  rolled  a  little  way  out  from  its  mother's  sleeping-robe,  froze  into  ice. 
The  Journal  of  January  25  had  read :  "Still  another  day  (the  seventh)  of  the  severest  storm  I  have 
ever  witnessed.  All  day  yesterday,  the  wind  was  but  one  degree  less  than  a  hurricane  force ;  and 
it  was  with  great  danger  that  I  ventured  out  from  the  tooJcsoo,  to  visit  my  Wind  Indicator,  though 
the  distance  is  not  more  than  20  yards.  The  storm  is  right  abeam,  and  the  only  way  to  keep 
myself  erect  is  by  strong  bracing  against  and  reclining  on  the  v,-ind;  yet  with  all  this  precaution, 
now  and  then  the  wind  will  lift  and  drive  me  tumbling  and  rolling  like  a  drunken  man.  It  has 
been  so  charged  too  with  <lrift,  that  it  has  been  impo.ssible  to  designate  whether  the  sky  was 
clouded  or  fair:  I  suspect  that  the  latter  is  the  case,  for  I  could  sec  the  moon  to-night  dimly 
through  the  drift,  which  appeared  to  be  the  only  obstruction.  This  p.  m.  the  drift  changed  from 
the  soft,  pliant,  im])aetable  kind  to  that  of  dry  sand  (so  to  speak);  and  then  hi/ attrition  the  snow- 
walls  of  oar  ediiices  began  to  be  destroyed.     An  alarming  fact  was  then  ])ali)abl( — that  we  shoula 


374  Readiness  for  Another  Sledge  Journey.  (March.  i8«9. 

Hall  was  in  high  spirits  when,  on  the  22d  of  the  month,  he  ad- 
vanced a  load  of  provisions  to  North  Pole  Lake,  and  he  would  have 
started  out  on  that  day  with  his  full  stores  and  his  ammunition  and 
weapons  to  meet  even  the  Neitchille  tribes,  had  not  a  severe  gale  set 
in.     The  delay  of  one  day  was  a  trial. 

Boon  be  shelterless  in  this  most  pitiless  storm  unless  we  could  devise  some  way  to  stay  the  swift 
destruction.  Papa  Tetva  and  I,  in  our  full  winter  rig,  ventured  out  with  a  desperate  detormina- 
tion,  sought  our  Avay  here  and  there  ahout  the  building,  and  threw  np  banks  of  snow  against  snch 
walls  as  had  been  entirely  worn  tlirough,  or  were  nearly  so;  at  one  exposed  place  of  onr  castle  Ave 
fastened  a  large  deer  skin  across  the  hole  by  pegs  driven  into  the  walls.  But  for  the  moonlight, 
though  dim,  it  would  have  been  a  doubtful  case  as  to  our  staying  the  ravages  of  the  sand-like 
drift.  The  whole  dome  was  destroyed  at  night,  but  it  was  not  of  Uie  hardest  compact  snow. 
When  it  was  rebuilt  it  was  again  lined  with  seal  and  walrns  skins,  which  when  first  brought 
into  the  hut  were  stiiF  with  ice,  but  after  hanging  within  for  an  hour  coramonced  dripping. 
The  ice  Avas  then  pounded  from  them. 

Ebierbing,  with  some  of  his  friends,  came  in  on  the  next  evening  after  traveling  all  day 
under  the  continuance  of  this  storm;  the  drift  so  thick  that  at  times,  the  dogs  Avcre  completely 
hidden  from  the  driver's  sight.  On  asking  Avhat  made  him  Acnture  out,  he  answered,  "Because 
we  are  so  hungry."  The  Innuits  out  on  the  ice  of  the  bay  for  sealing  (numbering  one  Imndred 
and  ten  persons)  are  allsuflering;  Joe  brought  to  our  ^gloo  a  drug  of  Ook-gook  oil  &  blubber, 
(m  getting  Avhich  from  a  cache,  they  found  that  the  Polar  Bears  had  eaten  up  the  meat. 

Under  rencAved  necessities  forced  upon  us,  Joe  Ansited  a  Fox-trap  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
lAvillik  and  found  two  prize  swithiu.  The  stone  trap  was  of  a  peculiar  kind.  Built  up  of  a 
semi-globular  shape,  about  four  feet  in  diameter  &  four  feet  in  height,  it  had  a  hole  near  the  toj) 
large  enough  only  for  a  fox  to  squeeze  himself  in.  The  animal  on  scenting  the  meat  jumps  doAvn 
to  the  bottom,  as,  at  times,  ten  or  more  of  them  are  found  to  have  done.  Once  in,  there  is  no 
getting  out. 


Chaptei^ 


JOURNEY  TO  KING  WILLIAM'S  LAND  AND  RETURN  TO 

THE  UNITED  STATES. 

MARCH  23  TO  SEPTEMBER  26,  liiGO. 


CHAPTER   XTII. 


Hall  degins  ins  final  journey  to  King  William's  Land — Eoutk  toward  Peli  y  Bay  tiik. 

SAME    with    that   FOLLOWED    IN    1CG6  AND    18G7 — TlIK    CACHE    MADE    IN    1HG7  REACHED— 

Safety  of  the  stores— Deposit  made  for  the  return  journey — Encamps  on  Lake 
Tep-suk-ju-a,  April  P — On  Attgusta  Island,  April  11 — Meets  Pelly  Bay  natives — 
Peculiarities  of  the  ice  formation — Flying  sledge  trip  to  the  igloos— Fr.vnklin 
relics — Hall's  natives  alarmed — Their  fears  quieted — Musk-ox  hunt  near  Simp- 
son's Lake— Neitciiille  natives  met— Conversations  with  In-nook-poo-ziie-jook— 
More  Franklin  iselics — Encamps  on  Todd's  Island— Graves  of  Franklin's  men  vi;;- 

ITED  near  PeFFER  En'ER— GRAVES  ON  TODD'S  ISLAND— DeEP  SNOW  PREVENTS  FURTHER 

SEARCH— Unwillingness  of  the  natives  to  remain— Eeturn  to  Repulse  Bay — Infor 

MATION   from   IN-NOOK-POO  ZHE-JOOK  ON  THE   ROUTE — ABUNDANCE   OF   GAME  FROM  KiNG 

William's  Land  to  Repulse  Bay — Musk-ox  hunts — Hall's  letter  giving  the  results 
OF  this  journey — Arrives  at  Repulse  Bay — Plans  of  return  to  the  United  States- 
Occupations  during  June  and  July— Places  the  bone  of  ius  second  whale  and 
his  musk-ox  skins  on  the  Ansell  Gibbs— Hunts  the  bear  and  the  deep,  at  Whale 
Point— Sails  for  the  United  States— Arrives  at  New  Bedford,  September  2o,  186;). 

The  first  page  of  Hall's  note-book  for  March  23,  186^>,  has  on  its 
face  the  same  cheerful  words  with  those  recorded  in  setting  out  on  his 
hopeful  journey  of  1866 — 

"  Now  FOR  King  William's  Land  !" 

Neither  the  long  and  discouraging  period  of  four  and  a  half  years 
through  which  he  had  passed,  nor  the  repeated  inducements  offered 
to  return  to  the  United  States,  were  permitted  to  stand  in  the  way 
of  renewing  this  inscription. 

His  party  now  consisted  not  of  white  men  on  tlie  plan  proi)Osed 


^7S 


Final  Journey  to  King   William^ s  Land.  inarch,  jsho. 


in  1866,  but  of  five  Eskimo  men,  three  women,  and  two  children. 
These  were  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-H-too,  with  their  adopted  daughter, 
Pun-ny ;  Ou-e-Ia,  Fa-pa,  Nu-Jicr-^hoo,  his  wife  {Pim-ny's  mother),  Eeli- 
cJwo-ar-choo  (Jerry),  and  liis  wife,  with  infant  in  lier  hood:  in  all, 
eleven  souls. 


SEITIXG  OIT   KOi:    KlXfi   WILLIAM'S   LAND.    >L\1{C11  'S.i,   18G9. 

Proposing  to  follow  his  old  route  from  Gibson's  Cove  to  Pelly 
Bay,  and  remembering  that  nearly  the  same  route  had  been  well 
charted  by  Dr.  Kae,  he  thought  it  unnecessary  to  occupy  his  time  and 
attrition  witli  astronomical  observations  on  this  ])art  of  tlie  journey; 
and  ior  like  reasons  would  dispense  with  compass  bearings,  taking 
care,  however,  to  record  the  actual  distances  traveled.  Ex2)erience 
strengthened  his  puq)ose  of  conforming  to  the  natural  custom  of  the 
Eskimos  in  iniiking  at  the  outs<*t  but  sliort  dailv  advances  with  heavily- 


inarch,  1869.1  The  SUdgcs  Heavily  Laden.  379 

loaded  sledges ;  this  was  additionally  necessary  to  inure  himself  and 
party  for  a  journey  involving"  all  the  hardships  and  the  length  of  time 
now  required.  A  gale  blowing  with  the  force  of  8  prevailed  at  the 
time  of  starting  out ;  it  had  the  peculiarity  of  many  Arctic  storms  in 
its  being  filled  with  drift  for  a  few  feet  upward  only,  while  "  above  all 
was  clear  as  a  bell."  At  10  p.  m.,  they  completed  the  first  ifjloo  on  the 
east  side  of  North  Pole  Lake,  and  retired  to  sleep  on  a  full  Arctic 
meal.  The  quantity  of  food  consumed  by  the  party  of  eleven  for 
their  supper  and  for  breakfast  the  next  morning,  was  forty -four  pounds, 
exclusive  of  coffee  and  molasses ;  Hall  says  he  allowed  every  one  to 
eat  as  much  as  he  would,  and  he  himself  ate  as  much  as  any  one.  In 
the  morning,  a  heavy  di'ift,  with  a  cutting  wind  from  the  northwest, 
discouraged  the  Innuits ;  yet  the}^  went  forward  to  please  their  leader. 
At  this  time  he  had  loaded  the  sledges  more  heavily  than  on  any  of  his 
])revious  journeys,  for  on  weighing  them  accurately,  he  found  that  the 
gross  weight  of  the  sledge  Grinnell  was  2,724  pounds,  and  that  of  Bre- 
voorf,  2,.'')21,  making  an  aggregate  of  5,24')  pounds,  exclusive  of  the 
weight  of  any  of  the  party  who  might  ride.  This  was  an  average  of 
292  *  pounds  for  each  of  his  eighteen  dogs  when  all  tlie  travelers 
walked.  But  the  lame  dog-  Svlvia  was  not  at  the  first  attached  to 
either  sledge,  and  for  several  days  six  of  the  others  were  missing; 
the  rest  were,  at  times,  busy  with  their  usual  fights.  The  runners  of 
sledge  Brevoort — 16  feet  in  length,  with  a  depth  of  10  inches — were 
shod  with  slabs  from  the  jaw-bone  of  a  whale.  Its  seventeen  cross- 
bars were  each  2  feet  1 1  inches. 


*  Lyon,  in  liis  Journal  of  the  Hecla,  under  Parry,  says  that  his  nine  dogs  dreAv  l,Gll  jiounds 
on  a  sledge  of  wooden  runners,  neither  shod  nor  ieed,  a  mile  in  nine  nuuutes;  and  that,  had  liis 
sled  been  iced,  40  pounds  more  could  have  been  put  upon  it  for  every  dog.  Hall's  loads  exceeded 
Lyon's,  and  were  for  a  long  pull. 


380 


The  Chronometers. 


lITIai-t-li,  ISCH. 


The  second  igloo  was  made  on  North  Pole  Lake  where  it  narrows 
by  a  projecting  point  of  land  on  the  east  side ;  and  their  third  was  on 
Christie  Lake,  close  by  the  one  made  on  the  5th 
of  April,   18G6.     Hall  was  ag-ain  much  troubled 

^^  .,^^#»i#»^N^  \yj  |],g  repeated  stoppiiio-  of  his  cln-onometers,* 


PEKI!-8KIX    BOOTS. 


sKAL-.sM.N   1  ()(>t-(;i:ai;. 


SKAL-SKIX   KOOT-GKA}! 


which  led  him  into  errors  in  recording  his  dates ;  he  w^as  unable  to  cor- 
rect these  until  the  middle  of  the  month  following.  To  relieve  his 
own  weakened  team,  he  and  Pa-^M  walked  for  some  time  in  the  rue- 


*His  method  of  correcting  liis  clironouieters  may  be  learned  from  the  following  notes 
(literally  copied)  made  at  the  earlier  dates  of  November  19  and  2:5  of  a  previous  year  : 

"NoVKMBKR  19. — On  arising  this  morning,  I  found  to  my  dismay  that  my  Eggert's  cluo- 
nometer,  which  I  now  use  as  my  standard,  had  stopped.  My  rule  is:  the  1st  thing  before  rising 
in  tli«!  morning  to  wind  up  Ward's  chronom.,  which  I  keep  on  my  person  day  &  night,  and  then 
wind  Eggert's,  which  I  keep  in  a  little  tin  trunk  that  sits  on  the  bed-platforiu  between  my  bed  &. 
the  wall  of  the  igloo.  Fortunately  I  conipared  the  chronometers  on  the  l(Jth  ;  therefore  this  gives 
the  basis  for  resetting  my  standard. 

Ward  slow  on  M.  T.  Ft.  Hope  (present  encami)ment ) 5'"  17^ 

Ward  losing  ](er  day  lE^.S.'i  X  3  days  to  date  ( 19th ) =  4T\55 

Subi  ract  :}  seconds  as  I  compare  chrouonioters  at  xi  a.  ni.  (api)rox. ) 2/^  ^  -f-  45 


I'.lTii— Ward  slow  on  M.  T.  Ft.  Hope,  xi  a.  m C"    .02 

L<ing.  Ft.  Hope  W.  Greenwich v''     47      .44 


Ward  slow  on  M.  T.  GreenAvich v       53 

Comitarc  chronometers : 

1st  comparison  :  2d  comparison  : 


.4G 


Eggert V 

Waril      xi 


3  54 
3     0 


5     0 
4     (5 


(•>     (t  .54    f)     0  54 

Eggert's  fast  on  Ward (J         0 


54 


0^« 


Eggert's  fast  on  Greenwich  M.  T 0'' 

"No  <l(jubt  there  will  now  be  a  msw  rate  for  Eggert's,  and  this  I  must  determine  by  some 
star  oi-  ]>laiiet,  as  (he  sun  is  now  too  low  for  tim»!  ])ur])oseH.  T\w,  rate  of  Eggtat's,  previous  t<)  its 
nnining  down,  was  —  losing  2H'<.r)  \»y  day." 


iTiarch,  isoiM  Tlie  Chronomders.  381 

raddjj  (harness)  along-side  of  sledge  Grinnell.  Oii-r-hi  here  struck  off 
to  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  to  visit  the  spot  where  his  brotiier  Ar- 
too-a  was  drowned  from  his  Jd-a.  NH-l-er-.zlio(j's  wife  confirmed  the 
account  of  the  Franklin  party  as  given  by  her  in  the  previous  >'ear  by 
pointing-  out  the  spot  where  she  with  others  had  here  seen  the  strange 
white  men  going-  south. 

His  work  was  coDtiuuccl  on  the  first  favorable  day  which  followed  (the  2:5(1),  thus: 
"At  ix''  19"',  by  "Ward's  ehrouonieter,  the  rising  snii  was  shining  on  the  n^jicr  part  of  I5ea- 
eon  Hill,  from  the  crest  doMn  some  seventy-live  feet.  At  ix''  :i.5"',  by  same  chro.,  the  sini's  semi- 
diameter  was  above  the  crown  of  a  hill  about  one  mile  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  100  feet  or 
so  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  My  place  of  observation  was  on  the  top  of  the  abrupt  hill  next  to 
N.  Pole  River,  directly  opposite  or  northeast  of  Beacon  Hill,  and  elevated,  say,  75  feet  above  tho 
sea. 

Compare  chronometers,  li''  6'"  0'*  p.  m.,  by  ^Vard's  of  this  day  ("J^d,  civil  time) : 

(23d)  Eggert's,  viii^  Gm  o^  (G.  M.  T.  on  deducting  5'"  10«). 
(23d)  Ward's,        2''  iS™  (J**  (Fort  Hope  M.  T.  on  adding  7"'  G«). 

Ward  slow  on  E GOO 

Now  to  determine  (in  the  absence  of  any  late  astronomical  obs.  for  time)  whether  or  not 
Eggert's  has  llie  same  rate  since  restarting  it  on  the  19th  inst.  that  it  had  before  it  jan  down,  I 
l)r()ceed  thus : 

1st  conqiarison  of  chros.  on  the  19th  was  at  xi''  T,"'  a.  m.  by  Ward  or  astronomical  T.  IS"!  23''  3"' 
2d  "  "       •'       to-day  (23d)  was  at  2'' f)>"  p.  m.  by  Ward  or  astronomical  T.       23     2  6 


4     3    3 

.(or  4<'.  1271) 
Interval  betw.  1st  and  2d  comparison,  using  the  former  rate,  Eggert's  losing  per  day.      28.G  X 


[( 


Lossin4'i.l-471 r    IIH.0.35  OG 


L      1  — 5f 


-58 
Eggert's  fast  on  G.  T. ,  1st  comparison 7'"     8« 

Eggert's  fast  on  G.  T.,  2d  comparison 5  10 

Time  by  Eggert's  on  2d =8''     G"'     O^* 

Time  G.  M.  T.  on  2d S      0  .50 

Time  by  W^ard's  on  2d 2      (>  00 

Therefore  Ward's  slow  on  G.  M.  T. 5    54  50 

Long.  Fort  Hope  west  of  G.  in  time 5    47  44 

Ward  slow  on  M.  T.  Fort  Hope 0      7  G 

Vi'ard  slow  on  M.  T.  Fort  Hope  ( I9th),  1st  comparison G"'    2^ 

W^ard   rate    15.85  (losing  per  d.)  nniltiplied  by  the  interval  1st  and  2d 

conip'n 4d.l271  =  G5«.414.535=l"'     5«.4=         7  7.4 

0  1.4 

Computing  W' ard's  gives  the  same  result. 

The  2  chionoms.  luivc  i)robably  maintainc^d  th<Mr  cdd  rates. 


382  The  Chronometers.  [March,  iseo. 

The  day  following,  Hall  succeeded  in  discoverino-  the  tracks  of 
the  missing  dogs,  brought  them  all  in,  and  made  up  an  equal  team 
for  each  sledge.     He  was  tempted  to  follow  the  Innuit  preventative  of 

Anothei-  way  of  gaining  the  same  result. 

The  difterence  of  the  2  clirouom.  ou  1st  comp'ii(19th) C'     0™    54' 

The  difference  of  the  2  chronom.  present  date (5      0         0 


0      0        54 

Eggert's  loss  in  the  interval  4'i.l271  (X  28.6  losing  per  d.) 118<^.0;5' 

Ward's  loss  in  the  interval  4  .1871  (X  15.85  losing  per  d.) 65  .41 


52.62 


1.38 
Thus  the  difference  in  the  results  between  computing  the  rate  of  Eggert's  alone  and  apply- 
ing it  to  Eggert's  as  the  standard,  and  that  of  computing  the  rate  of  both  and  applying  them  to 
each  respectively,  is  only  about  one  second  and  a  half,  or,  as  above,  1».38. 

Without  noticing  the  few  seconds  in  the  rates  of  the  chronometers  in  the  interval  from 
ix*"  25™  a.  m.  to  2"^  6™  p.  m.  (both  by  Ward),  I  will  proceed  to  compute  for  the  apparent  time  of 
sunrise  this  morning  to  this  latitude,  which  is  N.  66°  32'. 
Let  the  basis  be  ix""  25™  a.  m.  by  Ward,  the  time  when  the  sun  had  ^  its  disk  above 

the  hill  to  the  southward  Sc  eastward  or  astronom.  time 22''  21'^  25'"  0" 

Ward  slow  on  M.  T.  Ft.  Hope 7    6 


Astronomical  time  Fort  Hope 22   21    32    6 

Add  long,  of  Fort  Hope  W.  of  G v    47  44 


GreenwichM.T 23      3    19  50 

Equation 13  18 


Greenwich  ajjparent  time 23     3   33  08 

Without  going  through  the  whole  process,  I  will  simply  state  that  the  result  is  the  approxi- 
mate hour  angle  of  the  sun's  rising,  which  is  2''  3""  12«  or  ix''  56™  48'  a.  m.  apparent  time.  Now 
for  precision  take  this  latter  time  and  work  out  the  time  the  sun'.s  centre  would  be  on  the  sea 
horizon  if  there  were  no  atmos^jhere,  or,  in  other  words,  if  there  were  no  refraction: 

ix''56™48»a.  m.  of  23d,  civil  time,  or 22'' 21'>  56™  48* 

Fort  Hope,  diff.  of  long.  W.  of  G v    47    44 

G.  app.  time 23     3   44    32 

(23-3.74) 
«.  Dec.  (23d.)     20°  25'  2;;.5"     31". 01  per  h. 


1  r;5.97 


S.  20°  27'  22.6" 


3'  .74 


11.5.977.4 


1.55.97 

Lat.  66^32',  tang  ..   10.362.384 
S.Dec.  20O27i,  tang.-     9..571.774 

Cosine 9.934.158 

2h    3ra    2»  hour  angle. 


ix   56    58   a.  m. 
Time  .ai)f)arciit  hiiu's  centre  on  the  horizon  not  allowing  any  refniclion." 


iTiarch,  1S69.1  Tlw  SUds  Re-icecl.  383 

their  running  off,  i.  c,  by  tying  up  one  of"  the  forelegs  to  the  neck. 
At  5  p.  m.,  doubhng  up  his  teams,  he  ascended  Im-nuk-too,  the  narrow 
neck  of  land  at  the  end  of  the  mile-long  lake  which  forms  the  water- 
shed between  Committee  Bay  and  Repulse  Bay,  and  at  G.50  encamped 
on  the  south  side  of  Eae's  Six  Mile  Lake.  The  travel  was  excel- 
lent, although  the  snow  was  soft  and  deep. 

Halting  the  next  day  near  running  water  from  Miles  Lake,  the 
opportunity  was  embraced  of  thawing  out  the  whale-meat  and  tongue, 
146  pounds  of  which,  placed  in  the  liver,  had  the  frost  taken  out  in  one 
hour;  this  was  fed  to  the  hungry  dogs,  and  they  were  permitted  a  day's 
rest,  as  the  snow  in  advance  of  them  was  discovered  to  be  still  very 
soft.  From  the  top  of  a  hill  near  by,  the  sea  of  Ak-koo-lee,  with  its 
vast  extent  of  jumbled  ice,  was  seen  by  Joe  and  Nuk-er-^hoo  (Jack) — 
a  sea,  according  to  Ou-e-la,  to  which  in  olden  times  Innuits  resorted  in 
the  fall  to  kill  deer,  on  the  meat  of  which  they  lived  during  the  winter, 
brino^injj  whale-blubber  from  Iwillik  for  their  fuel. 

At  10.13  a.  m.,  March  31,  the  party  reached  Cape  Lady  Pelly,  the 
journey  from  the  point  last  named  having  few  items  of  interest. 
Musk-ox  tracks,  which  once  before  had  threatened  to  entice  the 
natives  off  their  route,  were  now  plentiful  on  the  banks  of  the  sand- 
hills near  the  sea.  "Jack"  carelessly  ran  Brevoort  sledge  across  a  spit 
of  gravel ;  Grrinnell  followed  suit,  and  both  sleds  were  halted  for 
re-icing,  when  the  successful  experiment  was  tried  of  re-mossing  Grin- 
nell  sledge  with  a  mixture  of  snow-water  and  urine,  the  latter  mak- 
ing the  compound  less  liable  to  break  up.  At  Point  Hargrave  a  huge 
drift  had  been  encountered,  into  which  both  sleds  were  compelled  to 
plunge  by  the  roughness  of  the  ice  close  up  to  shore.  These  incidents 
held  back  the  advance.     In  the  evening,  as  soon  as  the  igloos  were  up, 


384  The  Stores  of  186G  Still  Safe.  [Aprii,  iseo. 

one  of  tlie  women  set  the  lamps  agoing  and  melted  the  sea-ice  for 
water;  the  others  covered  in  the  huts,  while  Hall  pounded  up  the  whale- 
blubber. 

When  he  arrived  at  the  cache  which  he  had  made  on  May  10, 
1867,  by  transfer  of  his  stores  from  their  deposit  of  18C6,  he  found 
them  still  in  good  condition;  his  notes,  which  give  the  time  of  this 
arrival  to  the  exact  second  of  the  hour  on  the  2d  of  the  month,  record 
the  expression,  "Thanks  be  to  God!"  The  bags  of  bread,  sugar, 
coffee,  flour,  and  "  Borden-meal  biscuit"  were  frozen  fast  in  a  mass, 
and  in  endeavoring  to  separate  these,  a  large  rent  was  made  in  a  coffee- 
bag,  sacrificing  a  small  part ;  another  portion  had  become  sodden 
by  water  finding  its  way  from  a  sloping  surface  of  rock  near  by  into 
the  rubber  bag;  these  bags,  however,  had  preserved  the  virtue  of 
the  larger  part.  The  coffee  had  been  presented  by  Mr.  J.  Carson 
Brevoort,  of  New  York;  it  was  browned  and  ground  by  Hall  in  the 
spring  of  186G.  The  pemmican  in  the  hermetically-sealed  cans,  the 
sugar  and  the  brandy,  frost-proof,  were  found  in  perfect  condition;  the 
tea  was  mouldy.  The  wdiole  of  these  stores  were  at  once  removed  to 
camp,  and  an  excellent  supper  was  set  for  all.  Of  the  brandy,  one 
tablespoon,  sugar-sweetened,  and  with  hot  water,  was  served  out  to 
each,  the  dose  being  repeated  in  fifteen  minutes.  The  remembrance 
of  tliis  article  being  in  the  deposit  which  lie  helped  to  make  in  1867 
had  already  inspired  "Jack"  when  approaching  the  cache  and  in  his 
w(nk  of  uneartliing  it.  For  use  on  his  return  journey,  Hall  again 
made  a  deposit  of  part  of  the  stores  just  named  under  the  same  rock 
at  Cape  Weynton  which  had  covered  them  when  left  there  in  1866. 

P^'roMi  the  Cape  he  was  now  to  turn  liis  fiice  westward  to  the  long- 
dcsiicd    Kin;.'-  W'illiiiin's  Land;   Ijut  he  at  once  experienced  a  renewal 


April,  1869.]  Delays  hy  the  Innuits  385 

of  the  iinwilHng-ness  of  his  Inniiit  party  to  go  forward,  'i'hey  were 
tardy  in  making  any  preparations  for  advance;  they  made  their  ohl 
pleas  of  the  necessity  for  their  dogs  being  rested,  and  contended  about 
the  proper  route  to  be  pursued  He  says :  "  If  I  ever  get  to  the  end 
of  my  journey  with  such  an  untamable  party  it  will  be  a  great  feat 
indeed ;  they  look  to  Joe  also  for  an  example,  and  he  is  taking  life 
cosily  and  lazily."  Under  some  uncertainties  as  to  the  best  course  on 
this  first  part  of  the  westward  route,  Ou-e-la,  on  whom  the  main 
dependence  was  to  be  placed,  preferred  the  one  which  he  said  had 
been  formerly  taken  by  himself  and  his  father  across  the  land  from 
Colvile  Bay;  and  "Jerry,"  the  Pelly  Bay  native,  concurring  in  this. 
Hall  submitted  to  their  direction.  Starting  again  on  the  4th  of  April, 
at  6.46  a.  m.,  on  a  northwest  course,  he  found  the  land  very  low  and 
covered  with  snow,  except  where  patches  here  and  there  had  been  laid 
bare  by  the  winds.  The  weather  became  stormy  and  the  travel  heavy. 
The  Innuits  expressed  their  surprise  at  the  ease  with  which  he  could 
direct  their  new  course  by  the  compass,  and  Ou-e-la  again  showed  his 
native  intelligence  and  his  habit  of  observing  time  correctly  by  halt- 
ing of  his  own  accord  at  nearly  the  very  moment  at  which  Hall  had 
told  him  he  might  halt  when  the  chronometer-hand  should  indicate  it; 
but  the  next  day  he  was  mistaken  in  his  supposition  that  he  could 
himself  find  the  route,  and  was  willingly  guided  by  Hall's  compass. 

On  the  7th,  the  chronometers  gave  more  satisfaction,  ruiming  well 
by  careful  nursing.  The  course  for  the  next  two  days  was  still  to  the 
northward  and  westward ;  the  land  was  still  very  low  and  gradually 
sloping.  Descending  the  steepest  of  a  few  hills  which  they  crossed, 
the  party  came  upon  their  first  small  lake,  and  a  little  farther  on  upon 

a  second,  which  Hall  at  first  supposed  to  be  Dr.  Rae's  Cameron  Lake, 
S.  Ex.  27 25 


386  Near  Cameron   Lake.  [Aphi,  isea. 

but  found  his  error  before  the  close  of  another  day.  He  had  passed 
several  deserted  igloos  and  several  Innuit  stone  monuments  on  the 
ridges  of  little  hills,  on  one  of  which  was  found  a  knoll  of  solid  rock, 
with  Innuit  stones  set  up  in  lines. 

The  discouragements  did  not  diminish.  Some  of  the  Innuits  rode 
very  freely  upon  the  sledges,  and  "Jerry"  suffered  himself  to  be  even 
caught  on  one  of  them  fast  asleep.  Hall,  who  throughout  all  his  expe- 
ditions seems  to  have  expected  that  every  one  would  in  some  degree 
share  his  enthusiasm,  singularly  enough  records  here  that  the  natives 
had  no  appreciation  of  his  mission,  but  must  continually  lose  time  by 
stopping  to  smoke  and  talk;  yet  he  adds  that  it  was  surprising  that  the 
dogs  could  make  any  headway  at  all,  as  the  sledges  sank  down  full 
six  inches  all  the  way,  and  at  one  time  stuck  fast  in  a  huge  drift  on 
the  hill-side.  Dr.  Rae's  chart  was  a  guide  to  be  fully  relied  upon,  even 
without  the  aid  of  the  compass.  Hall  accounts  for  a  mistake  which 
he  thinks  Rae  made  in  regard  to  putting  Colvile  Bay  on  his  map,  by 
attributing  it  to  the  low  and  level  character  of  the  land  where  he 
expected  to  strike  it.  By  Ou-e-la^s  advice  he  made  his  fourteenth 
encampment  on  the  8th  on  the  new  lake  which  they  had  -reached. 
Its  Innuit  name  is  Tep-suk-ju-a;  Hall  notes  its  trending  to  the  north- 
west. Here  Ou-e-la  very  significantly  said  that  this  was  the  place 
where  his  father  and  the  Repulse  Ba}-  Innuits  made  their  halt  before 
their  meeting  with  the  Pelly  Bay  nativ^es. 

The  next  daj'-,  to  make  a  more  rapid  advance,  the  dogs  were  fed 
at  an  early  hour ;  the  whole  amount  supplied  to  them  being,  however, 
but  GO  jxMuids — a  half  feed.  The  men  of  the  party  were  ready  for  a 
vigorous  start,  foi-  iheir  strength  had  been  renewed  by  a  pemmican 
supper  tlui   night   before.     The  butter  at  the  morning  meal  was  the 


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April,  1869.]  Off  the  Old  Route.  387 

best  ooh-gooh  oil,  supplied  to  Hall  by  Pa-pa  the  winter  before  for  his 
night  lamp.  Expecting"  to  meet  Pelly  Bay  men  before  the  close  of  the 
day,  all  the  party  busied  themselves  in  getting  their  spears,  knives, 
guns,  and  pistols  in  order,  and  at  10  a.  m.  moved  off  toward  the 
northwest  end  of  the  lake  to  descend  the  little  river  leading  from  that 
point  to  Pelly  Bay.  The  snow  was  still  deep  and  soft,  the  thermome- 
ter indicating  23°,  a  temperature  uncomfortably  warm  for  traveling. 
At  noon,  drawing  near  the  end  of  the  lake,  highlands  were  found  on 
each  side,  closely  confining  the  banks  of  a  river ;  and  here  the  first 
spots  of  bare  ice  were  crossed,  swept  clean  by  the  high  winds  through 
the  gorge. 

Beginning  now,  as  he  supposed,  to  descend  Kellett  River,  in  two 
minutes  he  was  surprised  to  find  himself  ascending  frozen  rapids  where 
the  compass-bearings  had  pointed  out  the  true  place  of  entrance. 
Continuing  up  this  river,  he  passed  a  magnificent  pile  of  rock  stnicture 
200  feet  high,  looking  like  the  side  of  a  fortress,  and  having  a  kind  of 
reddish  moss  far  up  on  its  cliffs ;  the  land  on  the  other  side  also  was 
high  and  bold,  presenting  a  very  different  scene  from  the  flats  over 
which  the  party  had  been  for  several  days  passing.  The  dogs  still 
drew  their  heavy  loads  through  the  deep  snow  which  covered  the  ice 
of  this  river,  and  when  halts  were  made  to  discover  from  neighboring 
hill  tops  a  route  to  the  bay,  the  ruggedness  of  the  mountainous  land 
presented  a  discouraging  prospect ;  yet  Hall  consented  to  follow  the 
advice  of  Ou-e-la  by  going  forward  rather  than  returning  to  the  route 
of  Rae's  chart.  Late  in  the  day,  detaching  the  dogs  and  putting 
bridles  on  the  sledges,  he  made  a  dangerous  descent  to  another  lake 
at  the  foot  of  a  steep  and  high  hill,  estimating  this  descent  to  be  nearly 
400  feet  in  the  quarter  of  a  mile  passed  over.     He  was  a  good  way  off 


388  Augusta  Island.  lAprii,  iseo. 

from  the  route  followed  by  Rae  in  1854  tliroagli  Kellett  River.  On 
the  day  following,  however,  shaping  his  course  to  the  westward,  he 
gladly  saw  the  sea-ice  directly  ahead.  Far  as  the  eye  could  reach 
with  the  aid  of  a  good  glass  the  bay  and  every  inlet  were  filled  with 
very  old  and  rough  ice.  At  1 1  a.  m.  he  found  this  bay-ice  very  hum- 
mocky  ;  rounded  hillocks  in  some  places  rising  to  the  height  of  ten 
feet,  while  in  others  the  ice  was  like  waves  of  a  heavy  sea  suddenly 
frozen  in.  At  1  p.  m.  he  struck  on  Century  ice  The  Innuits  had 
anticipated  this  when  they  had  found  the  ice  of  the  sea  of  Ak-koo-lee 
in  the  same  condition,  and  Ott-e-Ia,  remembering  that  on  his  previous 
visit  here  with  his  father  the  ice  had  been  smooth  and  fit  for  sealing, 
now  expressed  his  belief  that  the  Pelly  Bay  natives  would  not  soon  be 
met  with,  for  they  must  have  gone  inland  and  southward  to  obtain 
subsistence  ;  the  bay  being  probably  full  of  old  century  ice,  there  could 
be  no  sealmg.  Having  made  some  further  advance  across  the  ice, 
Hall  fixed  his  sixteenth  encampment  on  the  11th  in  the  midst  of  the 
century  ice  near  the  east  end  of  Augusta  Island,  Ou-e-Ia  and  Jeny 
having  on  the  way  pointed  out  this  island  and  the  mouth  of  Arrow- 
smith  River.  Their  bearings  were  taken.  In  recording  the  location 
of  his  encampment.  Hall  says  : 

It  is  no  wonder  that  my  dead -reckoning  may  be  faulty,  with  but  tlic  aid  of 
»  small  compass  across  a  plain  unknown  country;  snow-clad;  thick  weather; 
snowing  niucli  ofllic  time;  no  object  whatever  in  siglit  to  aid  in  making  straight 
courses;  large  variation  of  the  comi)ass;  no  sight  of  the  sun,  moon,  or  stars  by 
wliich  to  determine  ]atitud<^  or  the  extent  of  variation  of  the  compass, — I  can  de- 
termine l)y  astronomical  ol)servations  only  the  errors  which  are  possible  but  not 
probable. 

At  7  p.  m.,  an  hour  after  his  encamping,  the  sun  burst  forth  in  all 
its  brightness,  giving  him  the  first  sight  of  it  since  leaving  his  encamp- 
ment below  Cape  We}'nton. 


April,  18G9.]  New  Igloos  Discovered.  389 

The  dogs  had  now  again  a  whole  day's  rest  and  a  full  feed  of  126 
pounds  of  Ixow ;  then  with  full  paunches  they  filled  out  the  twenty- 
four  hours  with  sleep.  Not  one  of  the  eighteen  had  as  yet  given  in, 
although  their  loads  on  the  two  sledges,  including  their  food  and  the 
oil  for  fuel  and  eating,  had  been  kept  up  to  2,100  pounds.  The  party 
made  another  excellent  breakfast,  chiefly  on  the  canned  beef  sent  out 
by  Mr.  Grinnell  on  the  Ansell  Gibbs  in  186G ;  it  was  better  than  what 
had  been  previously  used,  as  the  whole  of  the  meat  was  fat,  with  no 
bones  to  be  picked  out,  and  more  than  satisfied  their  hunger,  leaving 
a  portion  for  use  on  the  way.  Hall  now  hoped  that  he  would  make 
good  progress,  and  within  ten  days  would  put  his  foot  on  King  Will- 
iam's Land. 

On  resuming  their  journey,  an  igloo  was  seen  which,  it  was  at 
once  determined,  had  been  newly  built,  the  quick  perceptions  of  t^he 
Innuits  crediting  also  its  building  to  a  left-handed  man,  for  they  saw 
that  the  spiral  of  the  hut  ran  from  the  left  to  the  right  inside,  contrary 
to  the  usual  direction.  The  discovery  of  this  igloo  with  its  well-made 
took-soo  suggesting  the  near  presence  of  Pelly  Bay  natives,  Hall  sent 
out  some  of  his  company  to  find,  if  possible,  their  sledge-tracks ;  but 
although  three  additional  old  igloos  were  seen,  the  natives  were  not  yet 
overtaken.  The  huts  last  discovered  had  evidentl}^  been  occupied  in 
midwinter,  and  the  occupants  had  had  plenty  of  fire.  Within  one  of 
these  Hannah  found  a  piece  of  ash  wood,  appearing  to  be  the  remains 
of  an  oar. 

When  he  left  his  last  encampment.  Hall  had  intended  to  make 
directly  for  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  and  thence  cross  the  land  to 
the  west,  in  order  to  look  for  the  records  and  relics  at  some  southern 
point  on  the  sea  estuary  of  Great  Fish  or  Back  River ;  but  now,  seek- 


390  Century  Ice.  [Ai>rii,  1809. 

ing  to  come  up  with  the  Pelly  Bay  men,  in  the  hopes  of  getting  iVom 
them  yet  further  information  and  even  some  papers  of  the  FrankHii 
Expedition,  he  changed  his  course  to  the  northward  This  led  him 
over  a  narrow  ice-flow  of  the  previous  winter's  formation  He  camped 
on  this  floe,  which  was  found  to  be  good  sealing  ice — new,  but  some- 
what hummocky ;  and  from  the  top  of  a  round  hillock  of  century  ice 
12  feet  above  the  general  level  he  cut  the  ice  to  melt  for  making  his 
coffee.  It  was  full  of  little  cells,  in  which  the  salt  of  the  sea- water  once 
was,  the  cells  being  occasionall}^  as  large  as  the  thumb,  though  gener- 
ally not  larger  than  a  pin-head.  The  surface  had  mud  or  clay  im- 
bedded in  it,  while  at  a  considerable  depth,  the  crystals  were  pellucid, 
solid,  and  like  fresh-water  ice.     On  the  floes  of  this  Polar  ice  here  and 

there  were  masses  in  the  fomi  of  a  berg. 
The  century  ice  was  "a  puzzle  as  to 
how  and  where  it  was  formed,"  and  an 
equal  difficulty  presented  itself  in  tlie 
question  "how the  bergy masses  of  bare 
blue  old  ice  got  to  the  top  from  the  mar- 
gin of  the  old  floes." 

On  the  10th,  a  flying  sledge  ti-ip 
was  decided  upon  to  find  the  Pelly  Ba)^ 
Innuits.  At  an  early  hour  new  spears 
were  made  by  fixing   bayonets    to   the 

BABRES      CARRIED     BY     HALL     TO     KING 

WILLIAM'S  LAND.  cuds  of  loug  polcs.     Thcrc  seemed  reason 

(Presented  to   Mr.    J.   J.    Copp   on  his  i       r-  ^        c     j.      £  iX. 

return.)  to  fear  an  attack    trom    the  tact  or  trie 

well-known  dissensions  long  existing  between  the  men  of  his  party 
and  these  strangers ;  aware  of  which.  Hall  had  i)rovided  each  sledge 
with  rifles,  guns,  bayonets,  revolvers,  a  nuisk-ox  and  a  seal  spear,  and 


April,  J8U9.  New  Acquaintances.  391 

some  ammunition.  Still  the  heart  of  Pa-pa  now  failed  him,  and  he 
wished  to  stop  with  the  women  in  the  camp,  which  proposition  was 
declined. 

At  7.53  a.  m.,  when  the  party  again  started,  the  sun  was  out, 
but  the  drift  still  filled  the  air,  confining  the  view  to  a  radius  of 
a  quarter  of  a  mile.  Following  a  north-northeast  course,  in  a  half 
hour  they  found  Innuit  foot-prints,  which  the  gale  of  the  night  previous 
had  laid  bare ;  they  seemed  to  have  been  made  the  day  before.  After 
following  for  two  hours  the  tracks  on  this  course,  the  party  retraced 
their  steps  to  the  point  at  which  they  had  first  seen  the  foot-prints,  and 
on  advancing  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  dogs  soon  scented  the  igloos 
and  flew  ahead  with  so  rapid  and  keen  a  jump  as  to  trip  up  Hall  and 
Pa-pa,  entangling  one  of  Hall's  feet  and  dragging  him  along  till  the 
company  with  their  whole  force  stopped  the  coursers.  Ten  minutes 
later  they  arrived  near  the  igloos,  and  "Jerry"  was  cautiously  sent  for- 
ward, but  soon  reappeared  with  the  signal  to  come  on.  After  a  halt  of 
twenty  minutes  in  the  gale  and  drift  outside,  old  Tung-nuk  and  wife 
and  old  Kob-hig  appeared  armed  with  long  knives,  but  greeting  the 
new-comers  with  a  welcome.  These  men  had  remained  at  these 
igloos,  while  three  families  had  located  themselves  a  short  distance 
northward,  the  men  belonging  to  them  being  absent  at  this  time  on  a 
musk-ox  hunt  to  the  westward. 

On  Hall's  entering  the  huts,  with  "Jerry''  and  Pa-pa  for  interpre- 
ters, he  began  at  once  his  usual  inquiries  about  the  Franklin  Expedition. 
Kob-hig,  like  his  brother,  old  Kolc-lee-arng-nun  the  chief  met  by  Hall 
in  1866,  was  sociable,  jolly,  and  apparently  kind-hearted.  He  was  a 
dwarfish  creature.  In  Tung-nuk^s  igloo  was  found  a  gallon  stone  jug  of 
a  light  pinkish  hue  weighing  about  S'pounds,  the  handle  broken.    Tt  was 


392 


More  Franklin  Relics. 


[April,  1S69. 


without  mark  or  stamp,  but  was  said  to  have  come  from  King  WilUam's 
Land.  Hall  also  found  a  copper  A;oo^-/w  (lamp),  2  feet  6  inches  long  and  1 
foot  wide,  and  about  5  pounds  in  weight;  the  end  of  a  sword  4  inches  in 

length;  a  snow-shovel  3 
feet  long,  made  of  pine  or 
spruce,  evidently  painted 
at  first  lead  color,  and 
over  this  a  coat  of  white 
except  that  the  lower  face 
was  of  fresh  wood  color, 
and  a  piece  on  the  left 
sidewas  light  green  This 
last  article  the  Innuits  said 
they  got  out  of  a  ship's 
beam  or  plank  at  Ki- 
ki-tuk — King  William's 
Land.  On  asking  Tung- 
nuk  about  this  snow- 
shovel,  he  said  it  came 
from  a  large  ou-mi-en  (ship).  Was  it  there  now?  No;  it  had  sunk. 
Did  the  ice  break  if?  No;  the  Innuits,  in  getting  wood  (timber  or 
beams)  out  of  it,  made  a  hole  in  the  ship,  and  soon  after,  it  sunk.  The 
snow-shovel  was  made  of  material  very  much  thicker  than  it  is  now. 
Tmig-nuk  had  never  been  to  Ki-ki-tuk  (King  William's  Island),  but 
knew  a  great  deal  about  what  had  taken  place  there  from  his  acquaint- 
ances who  had  been  all  over  the  island.  The  sword-point  mentioned 
above  was  immediately  bartered  for. 

Tung-nul-  tr»ld  Hall  that  when  the  remains  of  the  white  men  were 


ixxriT  sxow-snovEL. 


April,  1869.]  Sufferings  of  the  King  William  Natives.  393 

discovered  by  Innuits  on  King  William's  Land,  arms,  legs,  &c.,  were 
found  cut  off  to  be  eaten,  and  the  cut  of  the  bone  had  always  showed 
this  to  have  been  done  by  a  saw.  Kdb-hig  said  that  all  of  the  white 
men  except  two  who  were  a  long  time  ago  at  Ki-ki-tuk  had  perished. 
One  of  the  two  was  Ag-loo-ka  (Crozier),  and  both  of  these  had  certainly 
been  seen  by  some  of  his  (Koh-hig^s)  friends.  This  last  information 
made  Hall  greatly  regret  the  absence  of  two  of  these,  Too-shoo-art- 
thar-iu  and  In-nooJc-poo-zhee-jook  The  former  of  these,  who  was  said 
to  have  taken  some  care  of  Crozier  and  his  men  when  nearly  starving, 
was  now  in  King  William's  Land.  The  latter,  who  had  been  all  over 
Ki-ki-tuk,  and  knew  a  great  deal  about  the  lost  expedition,  was,  when 
last  heard  from,  at  the  estuary  of  the  Great  Fish  River,  and  was 
very  ill. 

The  natives  of  this  bay  and  of  Neitchille  had  lost  nearly  all  their 
dogs  the  previous  winter  by  the  same  Arctic  disease  which  had  swept 
off  those  of  Repulse  Bay  and  Ig-loo-lik.  The  people  were  in  an 
almost  starving  condition,  evident  signs  of  suffering  appearing  within 
and  without  the  igloos.  Nothing  like  food  was  found  but  a  few  seal- 
bones  with  a  trifle  of  rotten  meat  on  them.  There  was  no  fire  in  the 
huts,  and  Hall's  own  company  barely  made  out  to  gather  a  little  of 
the  fire-shrub  from  under  the  snow  to  aid  in  making  their  drinking- 
water. 

Old  Koh-hig  told  Hall,  on  taking  leave  of  him,  that  it  would  take 
from  six  to  eight  days  to  cross  the  land  to  the  western  sea;  that  King 
William's  Land  could  be  seen  from  the  land  on  the  east  side  of  the 
strait ;  and  that  the  island  was  low,  and,  there  were  many  Innuits  on 
its  eastern  side.     He  said  it  was  well  that  there  was  a  white  man  with 


394  Simpson's  Lake.  [April,  iseo. 

these  Repulse  Bay  natives,  for  it  would  save  their  lives  before  and 
after  reaching  the  island. 

Hall's  men  were  now  plainly  alarmed.  Some  unpleasant  demon- 
strations, shown  by  Tung-nuk  himself,  had  much  to  do  with  this,  as  it  was 
known  that  he  had  lost  a  relative  and  "  must  kill  somebody  to  make 
matters  all  right  between  him  and  his  Grod."  It  had  been  said,  too, 
that  many  Pelly  Bay  and  King  William  natives  had  recently  died ; — 
Superstition  might  put  the  cause  of  this  on  any  one  of  Hall's  party. 
His  men  were  afraid  either  to  go  on  or  remain.  But  their  fears  were 
quieted  and  they  continued  their  journey,  though  the  provisions  they 
thought  would  now  run  short,  and  a  hunt  for  musk-ox  cattle  again 
wearied  them  without  success.  It  was  well  that  the  sledges  had  been 
so  heavily  loaded  on  starting  out  on  this  journey,  for  Hall  could  still 
feed  his  party  and  give  some  food  to  these  suffering  natives,  among 
whom  was  his  old  friend  See-pung-er  of  1867. 

On  the  18th  of  the  month  he  determined  by  astronomical  observa- 
tions that  his  encampment  (the  twentieth)  was  on  Simpson's  Lake,  lat. 
68°  30'  22"  N.,  long.  91°  31'  W.  Ou-e-la,  who  had  been  out  on  a 
two  days'  hunt  for  musk-cattle,  came  in  at  4  a.  m.  quite  weary,  but 
successful.  On  discovering  a  bull  browsing  on  Ellice  Mountain,  he 
had  succeeded  in  getting  within  range,  shattered  the  bones  of  one  of 
the  animal's  fore  legs,  and,  after  filing  into  him  all  the  balls  which 
he  had,  shot  his  extra  new  rammer  into  the  paunch:  all  these  shots 
having  only  wounded  the  bull,  so  that  Ou-e-la  could  but  drive  him 
several  miles  to  the  sledge-tracks  and  leave  him  there.  "Jack"  and 
Joe  started  off  with  sledge  and  dogs  for  the  prize,  returning  in  two  hours 
with  the  whole  ox,  and  also  a  small  part  of  a  deer,  which  Pa-pa  had 
shot.     The  bull  had  tried  to  hobble  off,  but  the  dogs  soon  brought  him 


April,  1869.J  A  Hunt  for  Musk-Cattle.  3U5 

to  bay,  nearly  tearing  off  his  skin;  a  hunter's  knife  then  ended  the 
fray.  At  night  he  was  dragged  within  a  large  circular  wall  and  skiinied 
and  dissected,  when  a  goodly  proportion  of  the  meat,  fat,  brains,  nose, 
and  paunch  were  quickly  devoured.  Only  the  women  failed  in  shar- 
ing the  feast;  forbidden  because  the  meat  was  not  cooked.  There  being 
no  spare  oil  for  fuel  for  cooking,  they  were  fed  on  pemmican,  which 
Too-koo-li-too  told  Hall  she  disliked  as  much  as  he  had  disrelished 
wolves'  meat  on  his  journey  to  Ig-loo-lik. 

The  Innuits  now  asked  a  rest  from  the  journey  to  hunt  more 
musk-cattle,  as  the  animals  would  soon  scatter.  To  keep  the  men  in 
good  humor,  Ou-e-la  and  Pa-pa  were  allowed  to  go  off  on  the  hunt, 
while  Hall  pushed  forward  to  Grinnell  Lake,  on  which  he  encamped 
on  the  22d.  The  two  men  met  with  some  success,  but  Hall  remarks 
that,  as  usual,  ''the  greater  part  of  what  is  killed  goes  down  the 
paunches  of  these  Innuits,  although,  before  getting  leave  to  hunt,  the 
story  always  is  that  they  want  to  get  meat  for  the  dogs.  As  for  ''Jack," 
he  is  a  regular  hog ;  he  eats  far  more  than  any  two  others,  and  feeds 
his  own  dog  on  the  choicest  pieces,  without  a  shadow  of  feeling  for 
others."  Hall  gave  him  full  swing,  so  long  as  he  kept  his  hands  off 
the  sledge  provisions;  these  he  rigidly  rationed  out,  although  he  was 
thus  prevented  at  times  even  from  leaving  the  sleds,  lest  some  of  the 
party  would  stuff'  themselves  from  the  stores. 

On  the  27th,  he  crossed  a  branch  of  Murchison  River,  and  from 
this  point  made  rapid  progress  over  a  level  and  hard  field  of  snow,  yet 
his  company  were  again  disheartened,  thinking  that  if  he  went  on  fur- 
ther, they  and  the  dogs  would  all  starve  before  they  could  get  back. 
But  Ou-e-la  soon  found  the  tracks  of  a  sledge  which  had  evidently 
crossed  Richards'  Bay  and  returned.     Despair  was  then  exchanged  for 


3"96  New  Igloos.  [Aprii,  iseo. 

bright  and  joyful  faces.  The  last  part  of  the  day's  journey  being  over 
an  unbroken  old  floe  with  many  hillocks,  and  the  dogs  being  very 
weary,  the  twenty-fifth  encampment  was  made  among  the  hummocks. 

The  next  morning,  to  Hall's  great  grief,  all  at  once  his  pocket  chro- 
nometer utterly  refused  to  go.  Of  this  he  said :  '*  Few  can  imagine  how 
strange  i  feel  at  the  loss  of  my  chronometer ;  its  constant  '  tick-tick ' 
at  my  right  ear  I  thought  anything  but  music,  but  now  I  feel  lost." 
His  compass  was  very  sluggish  as  they  approached  the  Magnetic  Pole : 
he  allowed  80°  for  variation.  During  the  day  Shepherd  Bay  and 
Point  Dry  den  came  in  sight  across  an  extensive  sea  of  hummocky 
ice.  His  highest  expectations  now  were  to  find  the  natives  whose 
sledge  tracks  from  King  William's  Land  had  been  seen.  It  was  nec- 
essary, however,  to  tell  his  party  that  if  he  did  not  promptly  succeed, 
he  would  let  them  stop  all  work  and  go  to  sealing,  on  which  they  went 
right  to  work  making  seal-harpoons.  They  were  troubled  about  the 
dogs,  which  had  become  so  ravenous  as  to  gnaw  the  sledge-bars  and 
destroy  tlie  moss-icing  immediately  on  its  being  put  on  the  run- 
ners, this  kind  of  sled  having  been  now  fully  proven  to  be  superior 
to  all  others. 

On  the  30th,  an  igloo  was  seen  to  the  southward  with  its  wall-shel- 
ter built  to  protect  the  sealers ;  on  visiting  this,  it  was  plain  that  it 
had  been  lately  occupied,  for  fresh  tracks  of  men  and  dogs  were  all 
around.  Ou-e-la  and  "Jerry  "  were  then  quickly  sent  southward  to  find 
Innuits ;  and  at  the  end  of  a  couple  of  hours,  to  Hall's  great  delight, 
signs  were  recognized  from  the  two  men  that  many  inhabited  igloos 
were  seen.  Pa-pa  now  became  more  frightened  than  ever,  and,  on 
conferring  with  the  others.  Hall  agreed  to  stop  behind  the  line  of 
pressed-up  ice,  which  they  thought  would  be  an  admirable  breastwork 


!Tlay,  1S«9. 


Intervictv  with  In-nook-])oo-zhce-jook. 


if  figliting  were  to  be  done,  for  now  a  village  was  seen   and  a  number 
of  men  with  dogs  sealing  out  on  the  iee. 

The  next  morning  the  party  started  out,  fully  prepared  to  meet 
friends  or  enemies.  Each  of  the  men  had  at  first  something  to  say  like 
a  prayer  that  those  whom  he  met  would  be  friends;  in  which  Hall  joined, 
praying  also,  as  he  says,  that  the  interview  might  lead  to  much  news 
of  Franklin's  lost  companions,  and  perhaps  "  to  the  recovery  of  some 
souls  and  of  the  records."  AVithin  150  fathoms  of  the  igloos  a  halt  was 
made,  Hall,  Pa-pa,  and  Joe  staying  by  the  sledges,  while  Ou-c-la,  Jack 
{Nu-ker-zhoo),  and  ''Jeny  "  advanced  a  little  way,  with  their  long,  sharp 
knives  in  hand.  But  the  Innuits  came  out  of  their  igloos  and  inter- 
mingled with  the  new-comers,  on  which  Hall  hastened  forward  and  met 
the  man  whom  he  most  desired  to  see — In-nook-poo-zhee-jook. 

The  first  question  asked  of 
this  man  was,  ^'■Nou-tima  Ag- 
loo-ha  r  (Where  is  Crozier  I) 
And  the  first  thing  shown  to 
Hall  was  a  large  silver  spoon, 
with  an  eel's  head  crest  (Frank- 
lin's; see  Preliminary  Chap- 
ter), that  came  from  a  large 
island  where  many  white  men 
died.  An  encampment  was  im-  i^'oi^"^'  knives,  fokk,  axl>  spooxs  of  innuit  make. 
mediately  made  with  the  chief's  people,  who  helped  to  put  up  igloos, 
in  which  they  used  knives  which  had  belonged  to  Franklin's  Expedi- 
tion ;  they  had  one  from  McClintock's.  The  names  of  the  men  were 
taken  down  in  a  book,  which  act  pleased  every  one  of  them  at  the 
outset,  and  the  day  was  spent  in   talks  with  them  ;    the  interpreters. 


398 


The  Native  Map  of  Kwg   William^s  Land. 


[iTIay,  1869. 


Too-koo-li-too  and  Ebierbing,  soon  getting  used  to  their  idiom.  In- 
nook-poo-^hee-jooJiS  hut  was  full  of  articles  from  the  ships,  for  a  num- 
ber of  which  Hall  at  once  bartered.  This  native  gave  him  a  sketch 
of  King  William's  Land  and  its  vicinity.  The  names  given  by  him 
for  the  numbers  on  his  sketch  were  as  follows : 


SKETCH  OF  KING  WILLIAM'S   LAND  AND  THE  ADJACENT   COUN- 
TRY, BY  THE  INNUIT  IN-NOOK-POO-ZHEE  JOOK. 


1.  Kee-wee-woo.     {Where    one   of  the 

ships,  Erehus  and  Terror,  sunh  at 
Oolc-joo-lik.) 

2.  Ootkoo-isli-e-lik. 

3.  Great  Fish  or  Back  Kiver. 

4.  See-er-ark  tu. 

5.  Noo-oo-tee-roo. 

6.  Ok-kee-jeer. 

7.  Ok-kee-jik-too. 

8.  Shoog-ee-look-too. 

9.  Too-iioo-nee.      {Where   In-nooTi-poo- 

zhe-jooh  found  the  two  boats.) 
10.  Kee-ti-na.  {A  small  island  where 
In-nooTc-poo-zhe-jooli,  has  seen  the 
remains  of  five  ichite  men.  The 
Innuits  all  believe  that  Too-loo-a 
{Sir  John  Boss)  died  and  wa^s  buried 
liere.  (!)  A  meat-can  unopened — that 
is,  full  of  meat— found  in  Too-looah 
grave.  His  remains  lorapped  in 
blankets,  and  his  body  unmutilated, 
while  the  four  remainder  were — 


10.  Keen  na — Continued. 

that  i^,  limbs  had  been  severed  and 
fiesh  taken  off  the  bones  of  the  four. 
This  island,  one  of  Todd''s  Islets, 
off  the  south  shore  of  King  Will- 
iam's Land.  N^o  boat  found  or  white 
men  died  on  Ki-Jd-tHJc-jUa  {Montreal 
Island).  Boat  and  tJie  remains  of  a 
great  many  whites  found  on  a  very 
small  island  by  the  west  coast  of 
the  inlet  of  which  Point  Riclmrdson 
is  the  East  Gape;  this  small  island 
halfway  down  the  inlet,  ichere  it 
turns  sharply  to  the  westward. 
This  islet  rcithout  a  name.) 

11.  Og-bnk.     {Matheson's  Isle  of  Rae.) 

12.  Shar-too. 

13.  Koo-kar. 

14.  Ook-sook-too. 

15.  Igloo-le-ar-choo. 

16.  Point  Dryden. 


After  remaining  at  this  village  until  the  8th  of  May,  Hall  set 
out  for  King  William's  Land,  to  visit  a  spot  where,  as  he  had  heard, 
five  of  Franklin's  men  were  buried.  He  could  expect  to  make  but  a 
flying  trip,  as  his  party  were  determined  to  return  to  Repulse  Bay 


I-* 

t— 1 

pi 

p 

r 

c 

^-^ 

^ 

^ 

> 

^ 

'-a 

S 

- 

0 

CA 

►t; 

N 

^ 

r 

■  ' 

> 

X 

Z 

nay,  J  869. 


Hall  Arrives  at  King   William'' s  Land. 


399 


within  the  two  weeks  following-.  Leaving  strict  charge  witli  On-e-la 
as  to  rationing  out  provisions  in  case  no  seals  were  cauglit,  he  took 
with  him  only  In-nook-poo-zhee-jook  and  Nu-ker-zhoo  and  wife ;  the  first 
named  provingagood  guide  "A  plug 
of  tobacco  was  given  to  Jack  to  oil  his 
mouth,  as  he  had  much  talking  to  do  75- 

LOWKK    HALF    OK    DESK. 

to  the  dogs."      The  travel  averaged  two  (Deposited  at  the  Sinitlisonian  institution.) 

and  a  half  miles  per  hour,  and  as  night  approached,  the  long-desired 
sight  of  the  land  and  the  Table-Top  Hill  on  what  was  called  Matheson 
Isle  came  in  sight.  Hall  gave  three  cheers, 
jotting  down  on  his  note-book  as  he  rode, 
"  It  is  a  glorious  feeling  I  have,  for  I  have 

,  ,  -1.  r  i^  '        c  1  11  (Dei>osite(l  at  the  Smithsonian  In- 

been   strugghng    lor    this    lor    ten    years.  stitntion.) 

Coming  to  a  group  of  four  occupied  igloos,  he  made  his  twenty-eighth 
encampment  with  them  near  Booth  Point.     In  these  igloos  also  there 


PART   OF    DESK. 


NEEDLE-CASE,    KING    WILLIAM'S   LAND. 

was  quite  a  collection  of  Franklin  relics,  among  which  was  a  mahog- 
any writing-desk,  18  inches  long  and  10  wide,  on  which  a  bottom 
board  had  been  put  by  the  natives.     It  had  been  recently  in  use  as 


400  The  Five  Graves  on  Todd's  Island.  [i^ay,  iseo. 

a  blubber-tray.  Koo-nik,  one  of  this  party,  gave  Hall  a  silver  spoon 
like  the  one  of  which  a  drawing  is  found  in  the  Preliminar}^  Chapter 
of  this  Narrative,  and  a  second  smaller  mahogany  box,  with  another 
spoon  and  many  other  articles,  including  pieces  of  copper  with  two 
stamps  of  a  broad  arrow,  and  a  steel  spear-head  on  which  was 
stamped  "  THE  SHIP."  All  these  had  been  brought  from  one  of 
Franklin's  ships  and  from  the  shore  on  the  south  side  of  Ook-joo-lik 
(O'Reilly  Island).  Knives,  needles,  thimbles,  beads,  and  rings  were 
given  in  return 

Going  on  from  tliese  igloos  on  the  9th,  In-nooh-poo-zliee-jook  still 
proved  to  be  an  admirable  guide,  leading  Hall  on  a  direct  course  to 
the  eastern  islet  of  Todd's  Islands.  The  compass  at  first  showed  that 
the  travel  was  south,  but  before  long  it  showed  it  as  northeast  when 
headed  in  the  same  direction.  The  weather  was  very  thick  when  the 
next  to  the  last  encampment  was  made  about  10  a.  m.,  and  supper  was 
served  on  delicious  fresh  salmon  of  Neitchille,  cooked  and  hot. 

On  the  1 1  th,  Hall  encamped  on  one  of  these  islets — Todd's  Island — 
and  immediately  searched  for  the  graves  of  the  five  men  of  whom  the 
natives  had  spoken  as  buried  on  it.  Its  northwest  end  was  very  low 
and  flat,  and  almost  everywhere  deeply  covered  with  snow.  He  found 
part  of  a  human  thigh-bone,  which  appeared  to  have  been  fractured 
not  long  before;  In-nook-poo-zhee-jook  told  him  this  was  part  of  one  of 
the  five  men  But  the  prospect  of  finding  the  other  remains  was  aban- 
doned on  account  of  the  snow.  Poo-yet-ta,  a  native  who  had  gone  on 
with  Hall  from  his  last  encampment  to  this  island,  now  said  that  the 
remains  were  not  buried  when  he  first  saw  them,  but  were  found  lying 
down  all  close  together,  each   fiillv  dressed  and  unmutilated      In  the 


May,  1869.1      The  Remains  of  one  of  Franklin's  Men  Found  hy  Hall.      40 1 

pockets  of  one  of  the  men  a  jack-knife  had  been  found,  and  alongside 
of  the  remains,  cans  with  meat  in  them  which  was  eaten  by  the 
Innuits. 

The  next  day  Hall  crossed  over  to  the  mainland  to  find,  if  possi- 
ble, the  place  where  two  more  of  Franklin's  men  were  said  to  have 
been  buried.  Arriving  near  the  mouth  of  Peffer  River,  the  natives 
built  for  him  a  snow-wall  to  keep  off  the  wind  and  driving  snow,  that 
he  might  take  some  sextant  angles.  But  the  sun  appeared  for  a  mo- 
ment only,  and  but  once. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  two  of  his  attendants,  after  much  labor,  gave 
him  signs  of  success  in  digging  through  the  snow  for  bodies,  and  on 
hastening  up  to  them  he  found  one  unburied  skeleton.  Over  these 
remains  an  American  flag  was  raised  half-mast,  and  a  monument  of 
stones  built  up  near  by  to  the  height  of  five  feet.  A  salute  was  also 
fired  in  honor  of  these  remains  as  to  those  which  Hall  believed  were 
the  form  of  one  "of  the  heroes  who  had  solved  the  problem  of  the 
Northwest  Passage."  The  gale  above  and  the  hardness  and  depth  of  the 
snow  under  foot  debarred  further  search.    (See  the  close  of  this  chapter.) 

Returning  from  this  examination  of  the  coast  of  King  William's 
Land,  Hall  made  a  second  search  on  a  point  of  the  same  southern 
shore,  but  farther  eastward;  for,  after  close  questioning  the  natives 
Poo-yet'ta,  In-nook-poo-^hee-jook,  and  Tilk-pee-too  a  third  native  met  with 
at  his  last  encampment,  he  believed  he  might  find  the  remains  of  still 
another  of  Franklin's  men.  After  traveling  about  a  half  hour,  the 
party  halted  on  a  long  low  spit,  called  by  the  natives  Kung-e-ark-le- 
ar-u,  on  which  the  men  last  named  "knew  that  a  white  man  had  been 
buried "     This,   however,  was  chiefly  from  the  accounts  which  they 

had  had  from  their  people ;  only  one  of  these  had  ever  seen  the  grave. 
S.  Ex.  2? 2fi 


402  A  Monument  Erected  to  the  Dead.  [May,  isoo. 

The  spot  was  pointed  out,  but  the  snow  covered  all  from  view.  A 
monument  was  erected,  and  its  bearings  from  Kee-u-na  carefully 
noted. 

Going  back  to  the  thirtieth  encampment,  and  renewing  his  inqui- 
ries of  Tuk-pee-too  and  his  wife,  E-vee-sJmk,  he  was  led  by  these  two  to 
a  place  on  the  southeastern  end  of  the  island,  some  twenty  fathoms 
from  the  shore,  where  the  wife  had  seen  some  of  the  skeleton  bones  of 
the  five  men  who  had  died  there.  Of  the  identity  of  the  place  and  of 
her  having  seen  skeletons  upon  it  she  was  very  certain.  Hall,  there- 
fore, erected  a  third  monument  and  fired  a  salute  in  memory  of  the 
dead  there. 

The  remains  which  have  now  been  spoken  of  as  found  by  Hall, 
or  ns  honored  by  his  "humble  tributes"  at  the  places  of  their  burial, 
were  all  which  his  opportunity  possibly  afforded  him  time  to  search 
for  and  honor.  He  felt  confident,  during  his  stay  with  these  natives, 
that,  from  a  number  of  conversations  and  close  inquiries  (using  in 
these  McClintock's,  the  Admiralty's,  and  Dr.  Rae's  charts  for  the 
identifications  of  the  places  named),  he  could  now  account  for  proba- 
bly 79  of  the  105  men  of  Crozier's  party  from  the  abandoned  sliips. 
Their  remains  had  whitened  at  or  near  King  William's  Land,  and  had, 
in  some  cases  at  least,  been  grossly  mutilated  by  dogs.  The  sub- 
stance of  some  conversations  with  the  natives  of  this  region  which  led 
liliii  to  make  this  estimate  of  the  number  of  the  perished  who  can  bo 
accounted  for  is  as  follows  : 

The  journal  of  May  5  says  :  "This  evening  quite  late  (for  it  w;is 
(jiiit(;  dark  in  our  if/loo  before  tlu!  fire-lamps  were  coaxed  ablaze),  ///- 
nook-poo-zhee-jook,  Tee-ka-fa,  Oiv-werk,  and  some  other  Innuits  of  tlic 
])lac(*  arc  iJicscnf.      I  will   ii(»w  try  and  sec   if  I  can  approximate  the 


May,  1S09.]      The  Numhcr  of  Men  Found  in  the  Second  Boat.  403 

number  of  men  in  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition  that  we  now  know 
from  Innuit  and  other  sources  to  have  died  shortly  after  Crozier  {Ag- 
ho-hi)  was  seen  by  the  four  Innuits  before  referred  to.  In-nook-poo- 
zhee-jooh  and  the  others  agreed  to  make  trial  in  giving  the  number, 
though  they  say  it  is  impossible  to  be  precise ;  they  were  '  very  many.' 
He  now  gets  his  five  men  to  hold  out  their  fingers  and  thumbs  to  rep- 
resent the  number  of  men  found  in  that  boat." 

These  represent 50 

There  were  two  skulls  in  the  boat  the  white  man  (McClintook)  had  found 

before  In-nooJi-poo-shec-jooJc  found  it 2 

And  five  he  found  outside , 5 

Not  far  from  that  boat  he  found  another  with  three  skulls  in  it  and  four  out- 
side    7 

On  Todd's  Island,  buried 5 

On  south  shore  King  William's  Land 2 

If  the  number  within  and  without  the  big  tent  be  called ;^0 

And  we  take  into  the  account  the  large  man  with  long  teeth  found  aboard 

the  shii^ 1 

And  the  four  men  whose  tracks  were  seen  on  the  mainland  near  Wiliuot  ami 

Crampton  Bay 4 

We  have lOG 

Deduct  two  in  the  boat  first  found  by  McCliutock 2 

Deduct  half  the  number  probably  overstated  in  the  boat,  west  of  Point 
Richardson 25 

27 

Reasonably  accounted  for 70 

The  Innuits  were  quite  sure  that  the  boat  found  at  i\\o  west  of 
Point  Richardson  was  the  same  one  that  Ag-gloo-lca'' s  party  had  when 
they  met  the  four  Innuit  families  just  above  Point  Ilerschel. 
The  notes  of  the  day  previous  are: 

Evening  interview  with  Ehl-cc-pcc-rc-a,  a  ISTeitchille  Innuit,  who,  witli  liis 
family,  removed  to  this  village  to-day.  After  the  newly  arrived  \rdvty  had  oom- 
]»letod  their  ifjloos  and  got  them  to  rights,  I  proceeded  to  make  a  call,  taking  Jack 


404  The  Natives  who   Visited  Franklin^s  Ship  [May,  ises. 

along  with  me.  J\ly  particular  object  was  to  see  a  glass  bottle  or  jar,  which 
In-nooJc-poo-zhee-jooJc  had  told  me  once  belonged  to  J.^-?oo-A;a's(Crozier's)  company, 
and  now  possessed  by  one  of  the  families  that  arrived  to-day.  Our  first  call  was 
on  the  old  man  and  his  family.  They  had  part  of  a  file  1^  inch  wide  and  2i  or  3 
inches  long,  round  on  one  side  and  flat  on  the  other;  this  was  sharpened  on  one 
end  for  use  as  a  cold  chisel  or  an  adae.  Elc-l:ee-peere-a  had  lived  at  OoJc-joo-UJc 
(O'Reilly  Island),  and  had  heard  the  natives  there  tell  about  the  ship  that  came 
to  their  country.  The  ship  had  four  boats  hanging  at  the  sides  and  another  was 
above  the  <iuarter-deck.  The  ice  about  the  ship  one  winter's  make;  all  a  smooth 
floe.     A  i)lank  was  found  extended  from  the  ship's  side  down  to  the  ice. 

Gathering  into  an  igloo  my  interpreters  Joe  and  Jack  with  In-nook-poo-zhee- 
jook,  and  putting  before  the  last-named  native  McClintock's  chart,  he  readily 
pointed  out  the  place  where  the  Franklin  ship  sank.  It  was  very  near  O'Reilly 
Island,  a  little  eastward  of  the  north  end  of  said  island,  between  it  and  Wilmot 
and  Crampton  Bay.  A  native  of  the  island  first  saw  the  ship  when  sealing;  it 
was  far  oli"  seaward,  beset  in  the  ice.  lie  concluded  to  make  his  way  to  it,  though 
at  first  he  felt  afraid;  got  aboard,  but  saw  no  one,  although  from  every  appear- 
ance somebody  had  been  living  there.  At  last  he  ventured  to  steal  a  knife,  and 
made  off  as  fast  as  he  could  to  his  home;  but  on  showing  the  Innuits  what  he 
had  stolen  the  men  of  the  place  all  started  off  to  the  ship.  The  party  on  getting 
aboard  tried  to  find  out  if  any  one  was  there,  and  not  seeing  or  hearing  any  one, 
began  ransacking  the  ship.  To  get  into  the  igloo  (cabin),  they  knocked  a  hole 
through  because  it  was  locked.  They  found  there  a  dead  man,  whose  body  was 
very  large  and  heavy,  his  teeth  verj^  long.  It  took  five  men  to  lift  this  giant 
koh-lu-na.  He  was  left  where  they  found  him.  One  place  in  the  ship,  where  a 
great  many  things  were  found,  was  very  dark ;  they  had  to  find  things  there  by 
feeling  around.  Guns  were  there  and  a  great  many  very  good  buckets  and  boxes. 
On  my  asking  if  they  saw  anything  to  eat  on  board,  the  reply  was  there  was 
meat  and  tood-iioo  in  cans,  the  meat  fat  and  like  pemmican.  The  sails,  rigging, 
and  boats — everything  about  the  ship — was  in  complete  order. 

From  time  to  time  the  Neitchilles  went  to  get  out  of  her  whatever  they  could; 
they  made  their  plunder  into  y)iles  on  board,  intending  to  sledge  it  to  their  igloos 
some  time  after;  but  on  going  again  they  found  her  sunk,  except  the  top  of  the 
masts.  They  said  they  had  made  a  hole  in  her  bottom  by  getting  out  one  of  her 
timl>ers  or  planks.  The  ship  was  afterward  much  broken  up  by  the  ice,  and  then 
masts,  timbers,  boxes,  casks,  &c.,  drifted  on  shore.  A  bttle  while  after  this  fresh 
tracks  were  seen  of  four  men  and  a  dog  on  the  land  where  the  ship  was.     Innoolc- 


May.  1809.]      The  Tent  and  Boat  Found  hy  In-noolc-poo-zhee-jook.       405 

poo-zhee-joolc,  who  had  seeu  lloss  and  his  party  on  tlw  Victory  and  Eae  in  1854, 
knew  these  tracks  to  be  koh-lu-nas')  the  foot-marks  were  lonj?,  narrow  in  the  mid- 
dle, and  the  prints  like  as  if  of  the  boots  found  in  the  two  boats  found  on  King 
William's  Land.  One  man,  from  his  running-  steps,  was  a  very  gieat runner — very 
long  steps.  The  natives  tracked  the  men  a  long  distance,  and  found  where  they 
had  killed  and  eaten  a  young  deer. 

Another  native  at  this  interview  told  nearly  the  same  story  of  the  ship  and 
of  the  man  found  on  board,  adding  that  he  was  found  dijad  on  the  floor,  his 
clothes  all  on ;  that  the  ship  was  covered  all  over  with  sails  or  tent  stufl".  The 
cabin  was  down  below  and  not  on  deck.  The  time  was  about  the  middle  of  May 
or  first  of  June. 

In-nooli-poo-zhee-joolc  said  that  he  had  found  a  boat  (a.  little  Avay  westward  of 
the  one  found  by  Hobson),  the  planks,  ribs,  and  all  com])lete,  and  copper  fastened. 
In  the  boat  were  a  great  many  skeletons,  the  skulls  with  them.  He  gave  mc  a 
double-bladed  knife,  with  a  white  bone  handle,  very  rusty.  It  came  from  this 
boat.  The  boat  had  not  been  touched,  and  a  great  many  papers  and  books  and 
written  stutf  were  in  it.  [These  are  all  trash  to  the  Innuits;  the  winds  and  the 
weather  had  made  destructive  work  with  them.  The  Innuits  would  trample 
them  under  feet  as  if  grass.] 

A  tent  was  near  this  boat;  it  was  on  the  top  of  some  rising  ground  on  a 
small  sandy  hill.  The  place,  as  pointed  out  on  the  chart,  was  near  the  bottom  of 
Terror  Bay,  a  little  way  northerly  of  the  point  adjacent  to  Fitz  James  Inlet.  The 
tent  was  large,  and  made  with  a  ridge-pole  resting  on  a  perpendicular  pole  at 
either  end;  small  ropes  extended  from  top  of  the  tent  at  each  end  to  the  ground, 
where  the  rope-ends  were  fast  to  sticks  driven  into  the  ground. 

Three  men,  one  of  whom  was  Tee-l-ee-ta,  first  saw  the  tent.  It  had  in  it 
blankets  and  bedding,  a  great  many  skeleton  bones  and  skulls,  the  flesh  all  oft'; 
nothing  except  sinews  attached  to  them;  the  appearance  as  though  foxes  and 
wolves  had  gnawed  the  flesh;  some  bones  had  been  sawed  with  a  saw;  some 
skulls  had  holes  in  them.  Besides  the  blankets,  were  tin  cups,  spoons,  forks, 
knives,  two  double-barrel  guns,  pistols,  lead  balls,  a  great  many  powder-flasks, 
and  both  books  and  papers  written  upon.  As  these  last  were  good  for  nothing 
for  Innuits,  the  men  threw  them  away,  except  one  book,  which  Tee-ka-ta  brought 
home  and  gave  to  the  children ;  after  a  while  it  got  torn  to  pieces. 

On  asking  Tee-kee-ta  whether  Ag-loo-ka  (Crozier)  had  a  telescope 
about  him  when  he  visited  one  of  the  tents  of  the  Innuits,  he  repHed : 


406  Ag-loo-ka's  {Crozier)    Visit  to  the  Innuits — 1848.      [May, iseo. 

"  The  first  time  A(j-Joo-ka  came  lie  did  not  come  inside ;  next  morning 
he  entered  one  of"  tlie  tents  of  the  four  families  wlio  were  there  en- 
camped b}'  tlie  west  shore  of  King  William's  Land,  a  little  way  above 
Cape  Herschel  (as  pointed  out  on  the  chart).  His  telescope  was 
hung  about  his  neck.  Ag-loo-ka  and  his  men  had  come  along,  the  men 
drao-o-inji-  a  lar<re  sledg-e  laden  with  a  boat  and  a  smaller  sledj^e  with 
camp  material  and  provision.  Close  by  the  Innuits  they  erected  a 
tent ;  some  of  the  men  slept  in  the  boat,  which  was  left  on  the  sea-ice 
all  the  snow  being  off  the  land.  On  Ag-loo-Jca's  first  meeting  with  the 
Innuits  he  had  a  gun  in  his  hand ;  on  seeing  him  lay  it  down,  the  In- 
nuits laid  down  their  spears.  Then  Crozier  walked  up  and  said,  "  Tij- 
mof''  ^'^ Man-ik-too-meeV  at  the  same  time  brushing  his  hand  down 
their  breasts  and  shaking  hands,  Koh-Iu-na-way.  The  time  was  late 
in  the  spring — July,  Joe  and  Hannah  said  it  must  have  been,  for  the 
sea-ice  was  nearly  ready  to  break  up;  the  sun  was  in  sight  all  the  time ; 
ducks,  now-yers,  &c.,  all  in  abundance  in  the  pools  and  lakes.  Tee- 
kee-ta  saw  Ag-loo-ka  kill  two  geese,  and  his  men  were  busy  shooting. 
Ag-loo-ka  tried  very  hard  to  talk  to  the  Innuits,  but  did  not  say  much 
to  them.  He  had  a  little  book  as  he  sat  in  Oiv-er''s  tent  and  wrote  notes. 
The  full  meaning  of  what  he  said  about  the  ice  destro^'ing  the  ship 
and  his  men  dying  was  afterward  understood.  He  ate  a  piece  of  seal 
raw,  aljout  as  big  as  the  fore  and  next  fingers  to  the  first  joint.  He 
wore  no  sword.  He  tlien  said  he  was  going  to  Iwillik  (Repulse  Bay), 
making  motions  witli  liis  hands  in  that  direction.  One  of  his  men  was 
very  fat,  the  others  all  poor  ;  one  man  witli  one  of  his  upper  teeth 
gone,  and  one  witli  marks  on  the  saddle  of  his  nose,  and  one  man 
squinted,  or  cross-eyed.  'Hie  Innuits  left  them  although  supposing 
lli;it  i1m'\'  W(;i*<'  al);iii<loiiiiii>-  stai'vcd  men. 


May,  J  869.]  IIoll  Compelled  to  Return.  407 

Hall  reproved  these  men  sharply  for  leaving  Crozier.  Does  it 
not,  however,  seem  probable  that  these  few  natives  feared  that  Crozier's 
large  party  would  starve  them  out. 

The  final  Return  Journey  was  now  begun.  The  natives  who  had 
gone  over  with  him  to  the  islands  were  as  anxious  to  get  back  imme- 
diately to  their  people  as  had  been  Ou-e-la,  and  even  his  own  two 
fi-iends,  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too,  to  be  safe  at  Repulse  Bay. 
Hall,  therefore,  was  forced  to  give  up  a  journey  which  he  had  con- 
templated at  least  as  far  as  Terror  Bay,  on  the  west  side  of  King 
William's  Land.  It  was  the  place  where  "the  tent  was  once  found, 
the  floor  of  which  was  completely  covered  with  the  remains  of  white 
men."  But  it  was  now  urged  upon  him  that  it  would  be  time  spent  in 
vain  even  t@  cross  over  to  Point  Richardson  to  seek  the  place  of  the 
boat  found  by  the  Innuits  soon  after  Ag-loo-ka's  party  were  seen  just 
above  Cape  Herschel,  for  the  land  there  was  so  low  and  so  deeply 
covered  with  snow  it  would  be  impossible  to  tell  sea  from  land ; 
Nu-her-zlioo  (Jack)  said  that  unless  they  started  back  to  Repulse 
Bay  within  four  days,  the  snow  and  ice  would  be  off  the  sea  of 
Ak-koo-lee  and  they  would  have  very  great  trouble. 

On  the  16th,  Hall  had  returned  to  his  twenty-seventh  encamj^ment 
of  the  outward  journey,  where  he  had  left  nearly  all  the  party  who  had 
come  out  with  him  from  Repulse  Bay.  All  the  way  back  he  was  regret- 
ting that  he  could  not  search  for  a  cairn  of  which  his  guide  had  been 
talking  at  his  side  on  the  sledge.  He  was  sorry  on  his  arrival  to  find 
that  the  natives  with  whom  he  had  first  met  at  this  encampment  were 
absent  sealing ;  Too-koo-li-too,  however,  had  rejoiced  at  their  going,  as 
they  had  become  on  Hall's  departure  bold  and  threatening.     A  family  of 


OO-KOO-SUK — INNUIT  STONE    POT. 


408  Belies  at  Inglis  Bmj.  [mot,  i869. 

four,  which  was  to  include  In-)iook-poo-zhee-jook,  had  settled  a  bargain 
with  Eek-elwo-ar-clioo  (Jerry)  for  a  return  to  Repulse  Bay.  Hall's 
provision  stores  liad  l)een  used,  as  onl}'  four  seals  were  caught;  but 
enough  remained  for  a  liopeful  supply  until  on  the  homeward  jour- 
ney the    luiuTs   would  be  resumed.     The  loads   on  tlie  sleds  would 

be  increased  by  the 
family  which  would 
go,  and  additionally 
by  the  relics  Hall 
would  take,  to  which 
he  found  would  be 
added  such  articles  as  a  stone  lamp  and  stone  pots  and  kettles,  bar- 
gained for  by  each  of  the  women  to  take  home.  He  wonders  whether 
some  one  would  not  liave  purchased  a  dead  elephant  to  take  along  if 
it  had  been  the  country  of  elephants. 

One  of  the  native  women  of  the  igloo  village  had  given  birth  to  a 
large,  healthy  babe,  which  the  mother,  on  finding  that  it  was  not  a 
male,  had  destroyed  by  throwing  it  away. 

Still  holding  back  his  men,  Hall  now  went  off  with  the  same  two 
companions  that  had  gone  over  to  Todd's  Island,  determined  to  learn 
more  of  the  dead  men,  and  especially  to  find  the  natives  who  last  saw 
Crozier  and  his  party.  Arriving  at  the  place  on  Inglis  Bay  where, 
on  his  journey  out,  he  had  made  a  deposit,  he  again  found  relics  in 
abundance,  among  which  were  a  piece  of  a  mast  14  feet  in  lengtli,  and 
oak  and  jjine  blocks,  besides  a  part  of  a  boat;  these  he  placed  upon 
the  sledge.  In  long  talks  with  the  natives  he  learned  interesting  news 
of  their  last  meeting  with  Ag-loo-ka,  the  substance  of  which,  further 
noted  in  lull  in  his  little  journals,  will  be  found  at  the  close  of  this 


Mar,  1869. 


Writing  on  the  Sled. 


409 


chapter,  where  his  own  summing  up  of  the  results  of  this  journey  is 
quoted.  The  flying  trips  made  for  these  last-named  talks  cost  him  more 
than  fifty  miles  of  travel.  When  the  sun  on  the  18th  was  14°  30' 
high  he  wrote  once  more  in  his  igloo:  ''I  find  on  my  return  all  the 
rest  still  in  bed ;  we  now  have  coffee,  pemmican,  and  bread ;  come, 
balmy  sleep !  " 

On  the  2 0th,  the  Return  from  this  point  to  Repulse  Bay  began.  The 
party  now  consisted  of  fifteen  persons  and  the  team  of  eighteen  dogs, 
Ou-e-la^s  having  come  back  to  them  after  a  stray,  on  which  it  had  eaten 
the  murdered  babe ;  for  this  act  it  was  not  permitted  by  the  natives  for 
some  days  to  do  any  work.     In-nook-poo-z}iee-jook!s  tested  ability  as 


A  PAGB  FROM  OKE  OF  THE  FIFTY-EIGHT  NOTE-BOOKS  OF  THIS  JOURNEY ; — WRITTEN  ON  THE  SLED. 


410 


IlaU  Af/a'm  Sick. 


[June,  1S69. 


guide  determiiiud  Hall  to  keej)  no  s})(H'ial  account  of  courses,  but  to 
use  carefully  the  opportunity  of  getting  from  him  and  his  driver,  Nu- 
Jcer-zlioo  all  further  information  possible  as  they  rode  along.  The  page 
here  reproduced  from  the  note-book  of  the  da}'  shows  how  Hall  set 
down,  even  when  on  the  rough  sleds,  what  he  thus  industriousl}' 
elicited  from  his  Innuit  acquaintances.  The  last  two  lines  of  the  page 
are  an  indication  of  frequent  experiences. 


The  sled,  though  heavily  laden,  was  so  well  iced  by  In-noo-poo- 
zhee-jook  that  for  some  distance  it  ran  easily  over  the  soft  snow.  The 
thermometer  read  28°.  By  the  28tli  of  the  month,  the  nineteenth  en- 
campment of  the  outward  journey  was  again  visited,  and  its  cache, 
made  April  17,  was  opened;  Brevoort  sled,  left  at  this  point,  was  now 
also  taken  up.  The  Pelly  Bay  natives  were  found  to  be  thriving  on 
their  recent  hunts  A  day's  talk  was  again  held  with  them  on  the  sub- 
ject always  uppermost  in  Hall's  mind. 

June  3,  Hall  rested  near  Dr.  Rae's  McTavish  Hill,  the  party  hav- 
ing had  the  comfort  of  feasting  again  t>n 
fresh  deer-meat  in  place  of  their  long-used 
pemmican,  and  the  discomforts  of  sleep- 
ing in  a  roofless  hut,  and  of  seeing  when 
they  arose,  the  heavens  thick  and  gloomy, 
the  snow  falling,  and  a  wolf  prowling 
near  them.  Hall  was  beginning  to  pass 
through  a  severe  sickness  of  some  days, 
which  made  him  abandon  a  purpose  to 
direct  his  course  to  Point  Sieveright,  fur- 
tlicr  to  the  north,  on  the  sea  of  Ak-koo-lee, 


IlKI.r    AM)   TAISLKT-COVKKS    KdK    Till', 
NOIKS. 


June,  i&tfo.]  Return  to  Cape   Weynton.  411 

to  inspect  a  monument  of  which  Ou-e-la  had  more  than  once  spoken 
as  having  been  built  by  white  men  since  Dr.  Rae's  visit  of  1854.  Of 
liis  sudden  and  serious  attack,  he  afterward  wrote :  "It  seems  alias 
a  dream.  I  found  myself  on  a  deer-skin  within  the  roofless  circle 
snow-wall  of  our  kom-mong,  surrounded  by  my  attentive  men,  all  wear- 
ing an  anxious  look,  until  a  large  dose  of  the  essence  of  peppermint 
restored  me  at  a  time  when  I  had  thought  the  very  life  was  fast 
ebbing."  This,  it  may  be  added,  was  not  his  only  experience  on 
this  expedition  of  a  sudden  and  unaccountable  illness :  premonitions 
of  the  sudden  and  final  attack  of  1871. 

Just  before  reaching  Cape  Weynton,  Pa-pa  shot  a  "mother-deer," 
which  fled,  leaving  the  fawn  to  have  its  life  "  footed  out " ;  the  Innuit 
pressing  down  one  foot  heavily  over  the  young  heart.  At  the  Cape,  a 
cache  of  presents  was  left  for  See-pung-er,  in  return  for  his  help  in  lay- 
ing up  blubber  and  meat  during  the  winter  of  1867—68;  and  then 
Hall  bade  a  final  farewell  to  the  point  which  now  he  had  three  times 
visited. 

From  this  date  the  chief  remaining  items  of  interest  which  are 
noted  in  the  jottings  on  this  sledge  travel  through  the  warm  month  of 
June  are  to  be  found  in  the  repeated  and  successful  hunts  of  the 
musk-ox.  From  the  6th  until  the  13tli  of  the  month  slow  advances 
were  made,  for  it  was  but  hunt  after  hunt.  As  many  as  fifty  musk- 
cattle  were  at  one  time  seen  in  bands  on  the  hill-sides.  In  one 
battle  twenty-one  were  slain.  Hall  killing  three  with  two  balls,  which 
were  found  lodged  in  the  third,  and  Hannah  herself  killing  four  young 
ones.  Hall  wrote :  "  My  tvorJc  has  been  severe  and  protracted,  and  I 
need  relaxation  :  therefore,  I  go  in  for  the  hunt."  Nor  could  he  have 
restrained  his  Eskimo  party,  if  he  had  desired  it,  for  the  cry  of  "Oo- 


412 


Provisions  Abundant. 


[June,  1860. 


ming-mung"  always  unfitted  them  for  anything  else   than   the  chase, 

even  when  they  knew  it  would  not  be  necessary. 

Game  was  thrown  right  in  their  path. 
The  country  all  the  way  from  King  William's 
Land  was  full  of  it;  and  as  Hall  wrote 
these  words,  and  remembered  that  much 
small  game — as  geese,  partridges,  and  mar- 
mots— had  also  been  seen  before  reaching 

HORNS  OF  A  MUSK-OX  SHOT  BY  HALL,  O 

JUNE  8, 1869.  Qape  Weynton,  he  added :  "0,  that  I  could 

have  met  Crozier  and  his  party  twenty-one  years  ago  with  the  facili 
ties  I  have  had  on  this  journey.     I  am  sure  I  could  have  saved  the 

whole  company.  I  say  it  with 
no  egotistical  feeling,  but  with  a 
confidence  of  what  I  know  of 
the  country."  The  proof  of 
what  he  thus  says  of  his  own 
''  facilities  " — i.  e.,  the  friendli- 
ness* and  aid  of  the  natives  as 
interpreters,  guides,  and  hunt- 
ers— was  afterward  found  in  the 
summing  up  of  the  prizes  se- 
cured on  this  trip  ;  for  when  he 
arrived  at  his  old  encampment 
on    Repulse  Bay,   the  footings 


MlllllliiLili' 


LADLK     M AlJi;    ]  I'.OM     THE    HORN   OF   A    MUSK-OX    BY 
NEITCHILLE   NATIVES. 

(Presented  to  Hall  as  to   an  an-ge-ko  by   an  Innuit 
mother  as  pay  for  ciuing  her  sick  cliilcl.) 


*But,  as  has  been  already  noted,  he  had,  some  time  before  this  date,  discovered  from  the 
confession  of  the  Neitcbille  men  that  their  friendliness  to  Crozier  had  soon  exhausted  itself.  They 
had  let  him  and  his  parly  starve.  Hall  had  sharply  rebuked  their  selfishness,  and  his  last  hope  of 
Crozier's  living  any  length  of  time  after  his  starting  from  the  ships  had  died  out.  Bnt  it  must  be 
remembtrcd  that  the  few  Innuits  who  found  Crozier  may  have  been  alarmed  lest  the  number  of 
the  white  men  would  exhaust  their  own  scanty  supplies.  Self-preservation  may  have  caused 
their  slipping  ofl"  in  the  night. 


June,  1869.]  TJlB    Mush-Ox    Hufit.  413 

read:  "Musk-cattle  killed,  79;  deer,  18."  The  skins  of  the  musk- 
cattle  weighed  873  pounds.  The  weights  in  gross  of  the  two  sledges 
from  the  date  of  May  28,  including  the  weight  of  provisions,  heavy 
boxes  of  Franklin  relics,  the  musk-ox  meat 
and  skins,  and  the  passengers  who  rode, 
had  sometimes  exceeded  300  pounds  for 
each  dog  of  the  team. 

The  striking  points  of  the  most  suc- 
cessful of  the  musk-ox  hunts  are  illustra- 
tive of  Innuit  customs  and  of  the  habits  of 

HOKNS  OF  A  DKKR  SHOT  BY  HALL, 

the  ox  when  attacked.     The  fight  was  at  ^^'^'^ 

the  place  marked  on  the  map  of  this  chapter  as  Encampment  No. 
44,  where  two  bands  were  successively  seen.  When  the  first  of  these 
was  surrounded,  as  soon  as  they  perceived  that  the  dogs  were  slipped, 
they  formed  into  their  usual  one  circle  of  defense,  "a  musk-bull 
battery  of  nine  solid  battering  heads  and  twice  the  number  of  sharp- 
ened horns."  The  dogs  were  quickly  at  these  heads,  barking  and 
jumping  back  and  forward,  while  the  hunters  made  no  haste  to  ad- 
vance, for  they  knew  that  the  bulls  would  stand  their  ground  all  day 
if  no  other  enemies  came. 

"After  a  few  minutes'  watch  of  the  movements  of  dog  versus  bull 
and  bull  versus  dog,"  the  old  hunter,  In-nook-poo-zhee-jooh  went  forward 
to  within  twelve  feet  of  a  large  bull,  carrying  a  lance  which  had  a  fine 
attached  by  which  he  could  draw  it  back ;  but  at  liis  second  throw, 
the  wounded  and  infuriated  bull  made  a  fearful  forward  plunge,  from 
the  effects  of  which  the  hunter  and  his  companions  escaped  only  by  a 
ver}^  timely  jump  to  the  left  The  bull  was  soon  again  brought  to 
bay.     Ou-e-la  then  pulled  trigger  on  another  "noble  bull  of  the  circle 


414 


The  Musk-Ox  Hunt 


[June,  1869. 


of  defense,  and  Pa-pa  shot  the  one  whicli  had  been  kxnced,  when  at 
the  noise  of  these  guns  the  whole  circle  bolted  away  except  two,  who 
stood  their  ground  side  by  side  long  after  the  whole  fight  was  ended, 


and  even  wlieu  tlie  dogs  were  driven  away  from  them  and  stones  had 
been  tln-own.  Instead  of  moving,  each  of  these  two  kept  throwing 
Ills  massive  liead  down   between  his  fore  feet,  rub])ing  tlie  tip  of  each 


June,  1869.]  Letter  to  3Ir.   Grinnell.  415 

horn  against  the  fore  leg  as  one  would  rub  a  razor  on  a  strop.  This 
is  the  animal's  habit  unless  he  finds  himself,  when  attacked,  near  some 
large  stone  which  he  may  use  for  the  same  purpose  of  sharpening  In's 
horns.  The  work  of  death  upon  the  others  of  this  band  and  upon  the 
second  band,  was  completed  by  the  rest  of  Hall's  men  with  guns, 
spears,  and  the  bow. 

On  the  20th  of  June,  1869,  this  three  months' journey  was  ended 
by  Hall's  arrival  at  his  old  quarters.  After  a  friendly  talk  with  the 
natives  of  the  bay  on  whose  shores  he  and  his  party  were  again 
safely  quartered,  he  promptly  wrote  out  for  his  friend  Mr.  Grinnell  a 
letter  which  might  reach  the  United  States  before  he  himself  could 
return.  It  so  fully  states  the  fixcts  of  this  weary  but  most  important 
of  his  journeys,  that  its  proper  place  seems  to  be  at  this  point  of  the 

history. 

Letter  from  Ca/pt.  C.  F.  Rail  to  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell. 

Eepulse  Bay,  Jtme  20,  1809. 

Dear  Sir:  This  day  I  have  returned  from  a  sledge  joiu-ney  of  ninety  days 
to  and  from  King  William's  Land.  It  was  my  purpose  (and  every  preparation  was 
made)  to  make  this  journey  last  season;  but  my  attention  then  having  been  called 
to  Mellville  Peninsula,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fury  and  Hecla  Straits,  where  native 
report  had  it  that  white  men  had  been  seen,  I  directed  my  expedition  there  by 
way  Am-i-toke,  the  Oo-glit  Isles,  and  Ig-loo-lik,  with  the  ardent  hope  and  expecta- 
tion of  rescuing  alive  some  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  last  companions. 

The  result  of  my  sledge  journey  to  King  William's  Laud  may  be  summed  up 
thus:  None  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  companions  ever  reached  or  died  on  Montreal 
Island.  It  was  late  in  July,  1848,  that  Crozier  and  his  party  of  about  forty  or 
forty-five  passed  down  the  west  coast  of  King  William's  Land  in  the  vicinity  of 
Cape  Herschel.  The  party  was  dragging  two  sledges  on  the  sea-ice,  which  was 
nearly  in  its  last  stage  of  dissolution :  one  a  large  sledge  laden  with  an  awniug- 
covered  boat,  and  the  other  a  small  one  laden  with  provisions  and  camp  mate- 
rial. Just  before  Crozier  and  party  arrived  at  Cape  Ilerscliel,  they  were  met 
by  four  families  of  natives,  and  both  parties  went  into  camp  near  each  otlier. 


416  Besults  of  this  Journey  tJ"***.  i869. 

Two  Eskimo  men,  who  were  of  the  native  party,  gave  me  much  sad  but  deeply 
interesting,  information.  Some  of  it  stiiTed  my  heart  with  sadness,  intermin- 
gled with  rage,  for  it  was  a  confession  that  they,  with  their  companions,  did 
secret!}"  and  hastily  abandon  Crozier  and  his  party  to  suffer  and  die  for  need 
of  fresh  proAisions,  when  in  truth  it  was  in  the  power  of  the  natives  to  save 
every  man  alive. 

The  next  trace  of  Crozier  and  his  party  is  to  be  found  in  the  skeleton  which 
]\[cClintock  discovered  a  little  below,  to  the  southward  and  eastward  of  Cape 
Herschel;  this  was  never  found  by  the  natives.  The  next  trace  is  a  cami^ing- 
place  on  the  sea-shore  of  King  William's  Land,  about  three  miles  eastward  of 
Pfeffer  Eiver,  where  two  men  died  and  received  Christian  (?)  burial.  At  this 
place  fish-bones  were  found  by  the  natives,  which  showed  them  that  Crozier  and 
his  party  had  caught  while  there  a  species  of  fish  excellent  for  food,  with  which 
the  sea  there  abounds.  The  next  trace  of  this  party  occurs  about  five  or  six 
miles  eastward,  on  a  long,  low  point  of  King  William's  Land,  where  one  man 
died  and  was  buried.  Then,  about  south-southeast  two  and  a  half  miles  further, 
the  next  trace  occurs  on  Todd's  Islet,  where  the  remains  of  five  men  lie.  The 
next  certain  trace  of  this  party  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  islet,  west  of  Point 
Richardson,  on  some  low  land  that  is  an  island  or  part  of  the  main  land,  as  the 
tide  may  be.  Here  the  awning-covered  boat  and  the  remains  of  about  thirty  or 
thirty-five  of  Crozier's  party  were  found  by  the  native  Poo-yet-ta,  of  whom  Sir 
John  Ross  has  given  a  description  in  the  account  of  his  voyage  in  the  Victory  in 
1829-'34. 

In  the  spring  of  1849,  a  large  tent  was  found  by  the  natives  whom  I 
saw,  the  floor  of  which  was  completely  covered  with  the  remains  of  white  men. 
Close  by  were  two  graves.  This  tent  was  a  little  way  inland  from  the  head  of 
Terror  Bay.  In  the  spring  of  1861,  when  the  snow  was  nearly  all  gone,  an  Eskimo 
party,  conducted  by  a  native  well  known  throughout  the  northern  regions,  found 
two  boats,  with  many  skeletons  in  and  about  them.  One  of  these  boats  had  been 
previously  found  by  McClintock ;  the  other  was  found  lying  from  a  quarter  to  a 
half  mile  distant,  and  must  have  been  completely  entombed  in  snow  at  the  time 
McClintock's  parties  were  there,  or  they  most  assuredly  would  have  seen  it.  In 
and  about  this  boat,  beside  the  skeletons  alluded  to,  were  found  many  relics,  most 
of  them  similar  in  character  to  those  McClintock  has  enumerated  as  having  been 
found  in  the  boat  he  discovered. 

I  tried  hard  to  accomplish  far  more  than  I  did,  but  not  one  of  the  company 
would  on  any  account  whatever  consent  to  remain  with  me  in  that  country  and 


June,  1S69.]  The   Unhuried  Dead.  41 7 

make  a  summer  search  over  that  island,  wliicli,  from  information  I  had  {>ained 
from  tlie  natives,  I  had  reason  to  suppose  would  be  rewarded  by  tlie  discov(.'ry  of 
the  whole  of  the  manuscript  records  that  had  been  accumulated  in  that  great 
expedition,  and  had  been  deposited  in  a  vault  a  little  way  inland  or  eastward  of 
Cape  Victory.  Knowing'  as  I  now  do  the  character  of  the  Eskimos  in  that  part  of 
the  country  in  which  King  William's  Land  is  situated,  I  cannot  wonder  at  nor 
blame  the  Kepulse  Bay  natives  for  their  refusal  to  remain  there,  as  1  desired.  It 
is  quite  i)robable  that,  had  we  remained  there  as  I  wished,  no  one  of  us  would 
ever  have  got  out  of  the  country  alive.  How  could  we  expect,  if  we  got  into 
straitened  circumstances,  that  we  would  receive  better  trealment  from  the 
Eskimos  of  that  country  than  the  305  souls  who  were  under  the  command  of  the 
heroic  Crozier  some  time  after  landing  on  King  William's  Land"?  Could  I  and 
my  party  with  reasonable  safety  have  remained  to  make  a  summer  search  on  King 
William's  Land,  it  is  not  only  probable  that  we  should  have  recovered  the  logs 
and  journals  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition,  but  have  gathered  up  and  en- 
tombed the  remains  of  nearly  100  of  his  companions ;  for  they  lie  about  the  places 
where  the  three  boats  have  even  found  and  at  the  large  camping-place  at  the 
head  of  Terror  Bay  and  the  three  other  jilaces  that  I  have  already  mentioned. 
In  the  cove,  west  side  of  Point  Eichardson,  however,  nature  herself  has  opened 
her  bosom  and  given  sej)ulture  to  the  bones  of  the  immortal  heroes  who  died 
there.  Wherever  the  Eskimos  have  found  the  graves  of  Franklin's  comj)anious, 
they  have  dug  them  open  and  robbed  the  dead,  leaving  them  exj^osed  to  the  rav- 
ages of  wild  beasts.  On  Todd's  Island,  the  remains  of  five  men  were  not  buried; 
but,  after  the  savages  had  robbed  them  of  every  article  that  could  be  turned  to 
account  for  their  use,  their  dogs  were  allowed  to  finish  the  disgusting  work. 
The  native  who  conducted  my  native  party  in  its  search  over  King  William's 
Land  is  the  same  individual  who  gave  Dr.  Eae  the  first  information  about  white 
men  having  died  to  the  westward  of  where  he  (Dr.  Eae)  then  was  (Pelly  Bay)  in 
the  spring  of  1854.  His  name  is  In-nooTi-poo-zhe-jooli.,  and  he  is  a  native  of  ISTeit- 
chille,  a  very  great  traveler  and  very  intelligent.  He  is,  in  fact,  a  walking  his- 
tory of  the  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition,  Tliis  native  I  met  when 
within  one  day's  sledge  journey  of  King  William's  Land — off  Point  Dryden ;  and, 
after  stopping  a  few  days  among  his  people,  he  accompanied  me  to  the  places 
I  visited  on  and  about  King  William's  Land. 

T  could  have  readily  gathered  great  quantities — a  very  gTcat  variety — of 
Eelics  of  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition,  for  they  are  now  possessed  by  natives 
all  over  the  Ar(;tic  Eegious  that  I  visited  or  heard  of— from  Pond's  Bay  to  Mackeu- 

S.  Ex.  27 27 


418         Franklin  Relics  Brought  from  King  William^ s  Land.     iJuue,  issg. 

zie  Eiver.  As  it  was,  I  had  to  be  satisfied  with  taking'  upon  our  sledges  about 
125  pounds  total  weight  of  relics  froui  natives  about  King  William's  Land.  Some 
of  these  I  will  enumerate : 

1.  A  portion  of  one  side  (several  planks  and  ribs  fast  together)  of  a  boat, 
clinker-built  and  copper-fastened.  This  part  of  a  boat  is  of  the  one  found  near 
the  boat  found  by  McClintock's  party.  2.  A  small  oak  sledge-runner,  reduced 
from  the  sledge  on  which  the  boat  rested.  3.  Part  of  the  mast  of  the  Northwest 
Passage  ship.  4.  Chronometer-box,  with  its  number,  name  of  the  maker,  and  the 
Queen's  broad  arrow  engraved  upon  it.  5.  Two  long  heavy  sheets  of  copper, 
three  and  four  inches  wide,  with  countersunk  holes  for  screw-nails.  On  these 
sheets,  as  well  as  on  most  everything  else  that  came  from  the  !Rorthwest  Pas- 
sage ship,  are  numerous  stamps  of  the  Queen's  broad  arrow.  0.  Mahogany  writ- 
ing-desk, elaborately  finished  and  bound  in  brass.  7.  Many  pieces  of  silver-plate, 
forks,  and  spoons,  bearing  crests  and  initials  of  the  owners.  8.  Parts  of  watches. 
9.  Knives  and  very  many  other  things  which  you,  Mr.  Grinnell,  and  others  in- 
terested in  the  fate  of  the  Franklin  Expedition  will  t-ake  a  sad  interest  in  inspect- 
ing on  their  arrival  in  the  States.  One  entire  skeleton  I  have  brought  to  the 
United  States.* 

The  same  year  that  the  Erehns  and  Terror  icere  abandoned  one  of  them  consum- 
mated the  Great  ISforthwest  Passage,  having  five  men  aboard.  The  evidence  of  the 
exact  number  is  circumstantial.  Everything  about  this  Korthwest  Passage  ship 
was  in  complete  order.  It  Avas  found  by  the  Ook-joo-lik  natives  near  O'Reilly 
Island,  lat.  08°  30'  N.,  long.  99°  W.,  early  in  the  spring  of  1849,  frozen  in  the  midst 
of  a  floe  of  only  one  winter's  formation. 

Unwilling  to  leave  any  means  untried  which  mig-ht  add  to  what 

information  he  had  gained  on  King  William's  Land,  at  Todd's  Isles, 

and  on  the  return  journey,  Hall  kept  up  numerous  inquiries  of  In- 

nook-poo-zhee-jook,  even  after  the  date  of  this  letter  to  Mr.  Grinnell. 

An  example  of  his  conversations  now  held,  will  show  his  manner  of 

questioning,  in  order  to  elicit  hopefully  the  truth  from  this  native  of 

whose  accuracy  he  sometimes  speaks  distrustfully.     In  Book  B,  for- 

*  After  much  hesitancy  as  though  he  might  have  done  wrong  in  this,  some  time  after  his 
return,  Hall  jjlaccd  the  carefully-prcstTvcd  remains  in  the  charge  of  Mr.  Brevoort,  of  Brooklyn, 
who  transferred  them  to  Admiral  Inglefield,  R.  N.,  to  be  forwarded  to  England.  Subsequently 
(by  the  i>lug  of  a  tooth)  the  skeleton  was  identified  as  the  remains  of  Lieutenant  Vescoute,  of 
the  Erebus.     (See  Geographical  Magazine,  London,  for  April,  1878.) 


July,  1869.]  Conversation  with  In-nooh-poo-zhee-jook.  419 

warded  after  his  return  (as  has  been  noted  on  page  339),  for  Lady 

Franklin's  perusal,  he  had  written: 

Friday,  July  2,  1869. 

Interview  with  In-nooli-jpoozliee-jooli ;  Hannah  my  interpreter.  Time,  about 
noon. — My  first  words  are  that  I  am  about  to  leave  this  country  for  the  United 
States  of  America;  I  wish  him  to  tell  me  the  particulars  he  can  think  of  relative 
to  the  white  men  who  died,  many  years  ago,  at  Ki-ki-tuk,  and  of  the  boats  he 
found  on  that  island ;  of  the  ship  he  has  also  told  me  about  before,  that  came 
down  to  Ook-joo-lik,  &c.  I  also  add  that  I  wish  him  to  be  very  particular  to  tell 
me  just  what  he  remembers;  to  tell  the  truth  and  the  truth  only. 

Question.  Who  were  with  you  when  you  found  those  two  boats  ? 

Answer.  His  brother's  son  Oo-ar-zhoo,  now  dead;  Oolc-pil;  Eli-l^e-pe-re-a,  and 
his  own  son,  Neer-liood-loo.  The  party  of  men  numbered  five,  and  their  ftimilies 
were  with  them.  They  were  making  a  tour  on  purpose  to  search  after  such 
things  as  they  could  find  that  belonged  to  the  white  men  that  had  died  on  King 
William's  Land. 

Question.  What  particular  time  of  the  year  was  it? 

Answer.  Thinks  the  time  of  the  year  about  when  we  returned  to  this  bay 
encampment, — June  20.  Water  had  begun  to  make  on  the  ice,  and  water  is  a 
little  later  making  there  than  here.  Snow  and  ice  were  inside  the  boats,  and  all 
around.* 

Question.  Did  the  boats  look  as  if  anybody  had  visited  them  within  two  or 
three  years  f 

Answer.  Somebody  had  been  to  one  of  them,  for  everything  was  gone  out 
of  it. 

Question.  What  did  you  find  in  the  other  boat — the  one  that  the  white  men 
(McClintock's  party)  from  Ik-ke-hi-suk  (Bellot  Strait)  did  not  find  ? 

Answer.  Six  paddles ;  many  table-knives,  white  handles ;  one  watch ;  a  spy- 
glass that  his  son  has,  a  little  longer  than  Joe's — something  like  my  compass,  but 
no  glass  about  it ;  tobacco  that  had  been  wet  and  was  in  flakes  or  thin  pieces ; 
very  many  tin  dishes;  one  whole  skeleton  with  clothes  on, — the  flesh  all  on,  but 
dried;  many  skeleton  bones;  three  skulls.    Alongside  of  the  boat  a  big  pile  of 

*In  a  i)revioiis  conversation  the  native  had  said  that  ho  had  found  the  boats  in  1861. 
"After  seeing  Dr.  Rac  on  his  outward  journey  (1H54),  he  came  down  to  Iwillik  and  staid  there 
three  winters;  then  he  spent  at  Pelly  Bay  two  winters;  then  he  spent  on  Neitchille  one  winter; 
and,  the  following  spring,  went  to  King  William's  Laud."  Which  Hall  rechoned  up  thus :  Repulse 
Bay,  three  winters,  or  1854-'55,  1855-'56,  and  185(3-'rj7 ;  Pelly  Bay,  two  winters,  or  1857-'58  and 
1858-'59 ;  Neitchille,  one  wiuter,  1859-'G0  ;  King  William's  Land,  one  winter,  1860-'61.  Then  in 
the  spriug  of  18 j1  found  the  boats. 


420  The  Second  Tent  and  the  Boat.  [jniy,  iseo. 

skeleton  bones  that  bad  been  broken  np  for  the  marrow  m  them;  they  were  near 
a  fire-phice;  skulls  among  these.  The  number  of  them  ama-su-ad-loo  (a  great 
many) — cannot  tell  how  many.  It  is  certain  that  some  of  the  men  lived  on  human 
flesh,  for  alongside  of  the  boat  were  some  large  boots  with  cooked  human  flesh 
in  them. 

[Hannah  here  told  Hall  that  from  all  which  had  been  said  by  In- nook  poo - 
zliee-jool:  and  the  other  Innuits  met  with  at  the  twenty-seventh  encampment  of 
their  late  journey,  she  was  satisfied  that  after  Crozier's  party  left  the  place  where 
the  two  boats  were  found  and  the  large  tent  at  or  near  the  head  of  Terror  Bay, 
the  starving  seamen  who  remained  at  or  about  the  boats  no  longer  restrained 
themselves  from  satisfying  their  hunger.  The  Innuits  do  not  believe  that  human 
flesh  was  used  by  Crozier  or  by  any  one  about  him.] 

Hall  adds  in  regard  to  the  boat:  The  sledge-runner  I  have  (deposited  after 
his  return  at  the  Smithsonian)  is  part  of  the  sledge  on  which  was  this  boat  which 
the  white  man  did  not  find. 

Question.  Did  you  see  any  papers  with  marks  on,  the  same  as  I  am  now 
making  ? 

Answer.  ]^o;  but  saw  a  great  many  like  the  paper  of  the  book  by  my 
(Hall's)  side  (McCliutock's  Voyage  of  the  Fox). 

Question.  What  was  the  size  of  the  tent '? 

Answer.  Xever  saw  the  tent  itself,  but  only  the  tenting-place;  judging  from 
the  appearances,  the  tent  must  have  been  as  long  as  to  the  fiu'ther  end  of 
Ar-moii'H  tent  from  where  he  was  sitting.  (Hall  measured  this  distance  to  be  22 
feet.)  The  tent  was  on  some  rising  ground,  trow-pulc  (sandy),  overlooking  the  sea, 
about  as  far  off  as  an  islet  pointed  out — half  a  mile.  Three  graves  were  near  the 
tenting-place. 

On  showing  In-nool-poo-zhce-jook  the  large  Admiralty  chart,  he  pointed  out 
the  place  of  the  tent  on  Terror  Bay,  and  said  that  when  his  party  "\isited  the 
tenting-])lace  they  followed  the  coast  around  to  the  northward  and  westward 
until  they  arrived  at  the  extreme  west  i^oint,  and  then  turned  to  the  eastward, 
where  they  found  at  last  the  boat  which  the  white  man  from  Ik-ke-hi-suk  (Bellot 
Strait)  had  foilnd  before  them.  Further  on,  about  half  a  mile  (as  he  now  shows 
by  the  islet  before  referred  to)  they  found  the  other  boat.  The  distance  from  the 
boats  to  the  tenting-plafe  could  be  made  by  a  smart  walk  throughout  a  long  day, 
following  the  coastline.  When  he  first  found  the  boats  (in  18GI,  as  made  out  by 
Hall),  the  ice  between  Cape  Crozier  and  Admiralty  Inlet  was  very  rugged  and 
heavy,  but  the  next  year  it  was  all  smooth.     He  thinks  from  the  kind  of  ice  seen 


July,  1869.]  McClintoch^s  Revolver.  421 

on  this  second  visit,  that  there  is  occasionally  a  season  when  a  shij)  can  sail 
through  that  strait  (Victoria  Strait).  In-noolc-poo-zhee-joolc  furtlier  said  that  before 
he  visited  Ki-ki-tuk  (King  William's  Land)  a  Neitchille  Innuit  found  a  large  knife 
under  some  stones;  and  he  pointed  out  the  place  as  Livingston  Point,  south  side 
of  Latrobe  Bay. 

Question.  Was  not  this  knife  placed  there  b^' some  Innuit?  No.  Did  the 
white  men  from  Ik-ke-hi-shuk  place  it  there?  No;  but  those  white  men  did  i)ut 
some  things  on  the  land  in  another  place  far  off  from  there:  among  them  a  small 
gun  (like  Hall's — a  revolver).  These  things  the  Innuits  found  and  took.  Koonf/- 
ou-c-lool;  at  Pelly  Bay,  has  the  revolver. 

"  Had  I  known  this,"  adds  Hall,  "when  1  met  Kooiigou-e-loolc  at  our  thirty- 
seventh  encampment  on  Becher  River,  I  would  have  got  sight  of  this  stolen 
revolver  which  Lieutenant  McClintock  so  unfortunately  deposited  in  the  land  of 
thieves.  The  Neitchille  Innuits  will  steal  whenever  they  can  get  a  chance — even 
one  Innuit  from  another.  When  I  escaped  from  this  latter  evil  on  my  late  sledge 
journey  to  King;  William's  Land  it  was  because  '  Jerry '  told  Julc-lcee-ta  (Jerry's 
own  cousin)  to  tell  all  the  Innuits  about  us  when  at  that  twenty-seventh  encamp- 
ment, near  Cape  Dryden,  that  they  must  not  steal  from  the  white  man  (that 
is  from  me)  or  from  any  of  his  (my)  men;  because  if  they  did  they  would  get 
terribly  i)unished  if  they  ever  came  to  I  wil  lik,  and  saw  any  ship  here.  This 
Avas  a  sharp,  commendable  trick,  of  '  Jerry's'  own  invention,  and  it  had  a  most 
desirable  result." 

Fuller  details  of  like  conversations  held  about  this  time,  and  of 
some  of  those  held  on  King  William's  Land  and  on  Todd's  Island,  will 
be  found  in  paper  C  of  Appendix  IV.  The  inquiries  and  the  test 
questions  appear  to  have  been  generally  close.  Instances  in  which 
Hall  expresses  a  doubt  as  to  the  consistency  of  the  statements  made 
by  the  natives  have  been  omitted  from  the  extracts,  and  Arctic 
travelers  will  best  judge  of  the  value  of  those  which  are  given;  they 
will  remember  that  natives,  when  compensated  for  their  talks,  may 
have  willingly  extended  them.  Hall  certainly  liberally  paid  his 
friends  for  their  services.  He  gave  Nulcerzlioo,  in  1869,  even  his  boat 
Sylvia  for  accompanying  him  to  Ki-ki-tuk,  and  found  that  he  must 


422         Tlie   Voyage  to  the  North  Pole  again  Contemplated.      [Juiy,  iseo. 

now  buy  it  back  if  the  whalers  did  not  come  to  take  him  home.     He 

writes,  however,  fairly  in  all  cases  for  or  against  himself — ^for  or  against 

the  character  of  his  information  from  the  natives. 

With    the   unwilling   consciousness    that   he    could    accomplish 

nothing  of  further  research  in  the  Frozen  Regions,  he  had  now  to 

think  of  a  Return  to   the  United  States ;  purposing  there  to   collate 

and  publish  the  results  of  his  protracted  Arctic  experience ;  then  to 

make  his  long-meditated  voyage  to  the  Pole;  and,  if  possible,  afterward 

revisit  King  William's  Land.     In  regard  this  last,  he  writes : 

Day  after  day  I  have  been  reading  and  re-reading  the  books  I  have  with  me 
on  Ai'ctic  voyages.  How  my  soul  longs  for  the  time  to  come  when  I  can  be  on  my 
^orth  Pole  Expedition !  I  cannot,  if  I  would,  restrain  my  zeal  for  making  Arctic 
discoveries.  My  purpose  is  to  make  as  quick  a  voyage  as  possible  to  the  States, 
and  then,  at  once,  make  preparations  for  my  Polar  Expedition.  I  hope  to  start 
next  spring  with  a  vessel  for  Jones'  Sound,  and  thence  toward  the  North  Pole  as 
far  as  navigation  will  permit.  The  following  spring,  by  sledge  journey,  I  will 
make  for  the  goal  of  my  ambition,  the  Xorth  Pole.  I  do  hope  to  be  able  to 
resume  snow-hut  and  tent  encampment  very  near  the  Pole  by  the  latter  part  of 

1870,  and  much  nearer,  indeed  at  the  very  Pole,  in  the  spring  following,  to  wit,  in 

1871.  There  is  no  use  in  man's  saying,  it  cannot  be  done — that  the  North  Pole 
is  beyond  our  reach.  By  judicious  plans,  and  by  having  a  carefully  selected  com- 
pany, I  trust  with  a  Heaven-protecting  care  to  reach  it  in  less  time,  and  with  far 
less  mental  anxieties,  than  I  have  experienced  to  get  to  King  William's  Land.  I 
have  always  held  to  the  opinion  that  whoever  would  lead  the  way  there  should 
first  have  years  of  experience  among  the  wild  natives  of  the  North :  and  this  is 
one  of  my  reasons  for  submitting  to  searching  so  long  for  the  lost  ones  of  Frank- 
lin's Expedition. 

The  expression  of  such  purposes,  including  that  of  a  subsequent 
return  to  King  William's  Land,  is  certainly  remarkable,  as  coming 
from  one  whose  sledge  journeys  only,  during  the  five  years  which  now 
closed  upon  him,  exceeded  the  aggregate  of  four  thousand  miles.  A 
willlingness  "to  resume  snow  hut  and  tent"  would  seem  explicable 


July,  1809.]       The  Coast-Line  of  Repulse  Bay  Completed.  423 

only  by  supposing  that  next  to  the  lofty  ideas  with  which  his  mind 
enthusiastically  invested  every  thing  Arctic,  was  the  extreme  of  a 
strange  fascination  with  the  uncouth  life  he  had  been  leading.  He 
sa3^s  himself,  at  about  this  same  date,  that  there  was  nothing  in  the 
way  of  food  in  which  the  natives  delighted  that  he  did  not  delight  in, 
and  that  this  may  appear  strange  to  some,  but  was  true.  He  had  that 
day  "a  grand  good  feast  on  the  kind  of  meat  he  had  been  longing  for — 
the  deer  killed  last  fall ;  rotten,  strong,  and  stinking,  and  for  these 
qualities,  excellent  for  Innuits  and  for  the  writer." 

The  six  weeks  which  immediately  followed  his  return  to  the  bay 
were  occupied  in  completing  a  sketch  of  Talloon  Bay ;  in  hunting 
with  the  natives  and  in  sharing  for  a  time  a  double  tiipik  with  eleven 
of  them;  in  Arctic  study  and  meditations  on  his  next  Polar  journey ; 
and  in  preparing  for  shipment  the  bone  from  the  whale  cached  the 
year  previous.  He  spent  several  days  in  surveying,  and  completed 
the  coast-line  by  a  survey  of  Talloon  Bay,  but  under  trying  disad- 
vantages. 

No  whaling- vessels  could  be  reasonably  expected  to  arrive  before 
the  first  week  of  August,  nor  was  it  at  all  certain  that  any  would 
come  in  during  the  season.  He  had,  therefore,  again  to  think  of 
the  boat  journey  which  might  become  necessary  to  York  Factory,  the 
difficulty  of  making  which  journey  in  the  frail  Sylvia  had  been  con- 
sidered the  year  before.  No  lack  of  provisions  would  now  be  a  bar 
to  this  voyage,  for  he  had  well  husbanded  his  old  stores,  and  the  addi- 
tions made  on  his  recent  sledge  journey  were  themselves  in  excess  of 
all  present  need.  "Really  we  have  been  blessed,  greatly  blessed,  in 
the  way  of  provisions.     The  amount  prepared  for  and  acquired  on  our 


424  Provisions  Abundant.  [Jniy,  iseg. 

late  sledge  journey  was  overwhelming ;  now  there  is  a  considerable 
sufficiency  to  take  a  party  from  this  place  to  York  Factor}^"  These 
stores  were  still,  however,  closely  husbanded,  and  all  reliance  for 
the  supply  of  immediate  wants  was  safely  placed  on  new  hunts  for 
the  deer,  the  seal,  and  the  walrus.  Salmon  fishing  was  also  hope- 
fully looked  for.  Nor  were  any  of  these  expectations  disappointed. 
The  natives  from  Iwillik,  including  also  some  from  Pelly  Bay  and 
Ig-loo-lik,  repeatedly  divided  themselves  into  parties  for  hunting 
and  sealing,  and  brought  in  abundant  returns.  Even  In-nook-poo- 
zhee-jook  surprised  Hall  b}'  his  quickness  in  learning  the  use  of  the 
rifle ;  and  Nu-Jcer-zlioo  one  morning  slipped  quietly  from  his  bed  and 
killed  two  large  ook-gooks.  Hall  bartered  with  him  for  the  meat  of 
one  of  the  four  which  he  had  killed  during  the  season,  in  noting 
which  he  says,  "the  skins,  blubber,  blood,  and  meat  of  these  animals 
(especially  the  first)  are  very  valuable ;  lashing-lines,  draught-lines, 
seal  and  walrus  lines,  and  the  soles  for  kummins  (boots)  being  made 
from  them."  The  total  weight  of  one  animal  was  1,500  pounds.  A 
large  number  of  salmon  also  were  at  difiierent  times  secured  near 
Beacon  Hill,  the  fish  measuring  from  27  to  32  inches  in  length,  and 
weighing  each  as  much  as  13  pounds  In  the  beginning  of  the  season 
they  were  caught  by  hook  and  line  from  the  margin  of  lake-ice  near 
the  shore,  where  a  space  had  been  melted  away  by  the  radiation  of 
heat  from  the  adjacent  land 

What  gave  him  the  utmost  annoyance  was  the  almost  entire 
demoralization  which  this  very  abundance  brought  upon  the  natives. 
They  stuffed  and  stuffed  till  all  their  provision  was  gone,  and  when 
they  could  get  no  more  they  were  ready  to  starve.  Three-fourths  of 
their  food  was  eaten  for  the  mere  gratification  of  eating;  nothing  but 


July,  1S69.]  Arctic  Temperatures.  425 

feasting  and  feasting-,  when  possible,  was  the  rule.  The  worst  of  the 
matter  was  not,  however,  theii-  sleeping  at  midday,  and  devoting  the 
rest  to  mirth,  games,  and  this  feasting;  but  their  making  the  hunts 
the  occasions  for  promiscuous  concubinage,  one  example  of  which 
will  suffice.  On  the  13th  of  the  month,  "Jerry,"  going  off  on  a  hunt 
in  one  direction,  took  with  him  Ar-mou's  wife  and  three  children, 
M'hile  Ai'-mou,  in  exchange,  took  "Jerry's"  number  one  wife  with 
her  infant  as  companions  on  his  hunt  on  a  different  course ;  both 
parties,  as  was  frequently  the  case,  extending  their  absence,  and 
leaving  Hall  to  support  wives  number  two,  as  well  as  the  families  of 
Others  who  had  gone  off,  providing  them  literally  nothing  to  eat.  It 
must  be  added  also,  with  regret,  that  like  exchanges  became  habitual 
while  all  parties  were  in  their  snow  huts ;  and  that  Hall  found  it 
impossible  to  restrain  entirely  even  his  own  Eskimo  man.  Hannah 
said  she  "  would  rather  die  right  away  than  stay  at  the  bay,"  and  Hall 
then  promised  her  that  she  and  Joe  should  return  to  the  United 
States  with  him. 

The  Arctic  Temperature  during  the  month  of  July  was  high,  and 
rains  and  storms  were  frequent.  The  first  day  was  gloomy,  with  thick 
dark  rain  clouds  and  a  light  wind  from  the  southeast ;  the  thermometer 
reading  at  noon  48°.  Through  the  night  of  the  second  and  most  of 
the  third,  fourth,  fifth,  and  sixth  the  rains  were  heavy ;  the  storms 
coming  generally  from  the  south,  southeast,  and  northeast.  The 
tenth,  eleventh,  and  twelfth  were  hot  days,  although  the  wind  was  from 
the  north-northwest;  the  lowest  readings  of  the  thermometer  were  at 
night  40°,  43°,  and  46°;  and  the  highest  at  noon  (at  3  p.  m.  on  the 
twelfth)  were  60°,   65°,  and  71°; — temperatures  spoken  of  as  very 


426  Mosquitoes  as  Torments.  [Juiy,  iseo. 

uncomfortable   for  Arctic  denizens      A  storai  on  the  19th  was  accom- 
panied by  sharp  hghtning. 

The  plains  were  now  purple  with  the  wild  saxifrage  (Saxifraga 
oppositifolia) ;  its  beautiful  flowers  followed  by  those  of  other  floral 
tribes,  clothed  the  earth  with  carpets  of  gold,  crimson,  blue,  white, 
pink,  and  straw  color.  The  Andromeda  tetragona,  so  often  named  as 
the  shrub-fuel,  itself  bore  pretty  flowers.  Hall's  collection  of  wild 
flowers  embraced  a  dozen  varieties. 

Mosquitoes  first  appeared  on  the  7th  of  July,  and  afterwards  on 
his  trips  to  Talloon  they  were  exceedingly  troublesome. 
'  He  records  an  experience  of  one  walk : 

The  sun  was  about  5  degrees  higli.  Not  a  breath  of  air  stirring,  the  sun 
shining  hot,  and  the  mosquitoes  desperately  intent  on  getting  all  the  blood  of  the 
only  white  man  of  the  country.  I  kept  up  a  constant  battling  with  my  seal-skin 
mittens  directly  before  my  face,  now  and  then  letting  them  slap  first  on  one  and 
then  on  the  other  of  my  hands,  which  operations  crushed  many  a  foe.  It  seemed 
to  me  at  times  as  if  I  never  would  get  back.  Minutes  were  like  hours,  and  the 
distance  of  about  two  miles  seemed  more  like  half  a  score.  At  length  I  got  back 
to  my  home,  both  temperature  and  temper  high.  I  made  quick  work  in  throwing 
open  the  canvas  roof  of  our  stores,  and,  getting  to  our  medicine-chest,  snatched 
a  half-pint  bottle  of  mosquito-proof  oil,  and  with  a  little  of  this  besmeared  every 
exposable  part  of  my  person.  How  glorious  and  sudden  was  the  change.  A 
thousand  devils,  each  armed  with  lancet  and  blood-pump,  courageously  battling 
my  very  face,  departed  at  once  in  supreme  disgust  at  the  confounded  stink  the 
coal-oil  had  diffused  about  me. 

The  questions  of  the  way  of  return  to  America  remained  an  unceas- 
ing anxiety.  In  case  no  vessel  should  come  into  the  bay,  it  was  quite 
uncertain  whether  he  could  get  any  of  the  Innuits  to  accompany  him 
on  a  boat  voyage  down  the  Welcome  from  which  to  proceed  to  York 
Factory  on  Hudson's  Bay,  or  even  to  seek  in  the  Welcome  for  a  ship 
wliicli  might  be  l)ouiid  for  the  United  States.     "Other  matters  also, 


July,  1869.]  Tlw  Bonc  of  the  Third  Wliale  Gummed.  427 

in  this  connection,  weighed  lieavily  on  his  mind : — to  attempt  to  reach 
the  Factory  in  such  a  frail  boat  as  the  Sylvia  along  a  well-known 
most  treacherous  coast  and  without  even  a  chart  of  it: — Could  he 
even  with  a  trust-worthy  crew  commit  his  notes  and  journals  of 
what  he  had  acquired  relative  to  the  Franklin  Expedition  by  five 
years'  adventurous  life  among  a  savage  people  to  the  fortune  of  so 
desperate  a  boat  voyage."  As  for  the  whalebone  and  musk-cattle 
skins,  his  Arctic  library  and  other  things  of  personal  value,  he 
thought  it  his  duty  to  abandon  them  if  compelled  to  make  such  a 
voyage;  the  relics,  manuscripts,  and  documents  being  the  only  things 
of  which  he  earnestly  desired  the  absolute  safety. 

An  almost  equal  anxiety  was  found  in  the  attempted  recovery  of 
the  whalebone  cached  the  previous  year.  Several  searches  were  early 
made  with  probings  and  much  labor  down  into  the  ice  and  snow,  but 
these  were  premature.  On  the  15th  of  the  month  a  successful  opening 
was  secured.  The  huge  snow-bank  over  the  long-covered  bone  had 
yet  melted  only  enough  to  expose  the  tips  which  still  stood  upriglit ; 
but  when  recovered  from  its  icy  bed  the  bone  was  sledded  overland  to 
a  point  opposite  the  usual  anchorage  of  the  whalers ;  and,  after  many 
days'  work,  Hall  found  that  he  had  gummed  with  assistance  from  the 
natives  534  slabs,  weighing  nearly  800  pounds.  On  the  sale  of  this  and 
of  some  of  his  musk-ox  skins  he  depended  for  the  payment  of  such 
costs  of  the  expedition  as  were  not  yet  provided  for,  especially  for  the 
payment  of  the  sums  due  to  the  four  white  men  of  his  party  of  1868. 

And  now  the  final  relief  for  all  anxieties  appeared  even  earlier  than 
he  had  looked  for  its  coming.  On  sighting  the  Ansell  Gibbs,  of  New 
Bedford,  August  5th,  he  entered  in  his  journal,  "It  is  now  certain 
I  shall  not  be  obliged  to  make  the  dangerous  boat  journey  to  York 


428  IlalJ,  Ilanuah,  and  Joe  on  Board  Ship.        [August,  ism. 

Factory;  God  be  j)raised,  for  he  doth  continually  bless  me."  A  few 
days  after  this,  such  stores  and  provisions  as  would  not  be  needed 
were  liberally  distributed  among  his  Innuit  friends,  with  whom  he 
spent  a  whole  night  in  feasting  and  in  a  last  talk  about  the  lost  ones 
of  Franklin's  Expedition.  In  the  morning,  four  boats,  manned  by  the 
natives,  carried  out  to  the  Ansell  Gibbs  all  the  bone,  and  with  it  sixty- 
eight  musk-ox  skins,  and  all  the  journals  and  note-books  of  this  five- 
year  Arctic  residence.  At  midnight.  Hall,  with  Eskimo  Joe,  Hannah, 
and  her  adopted  child  Pun-na,  were  safe  on  board  Captain  Fisher's 
vessel,  bound  for  a  short  cruise  down  the  Welcome,  and  thence  to  the 
United  States.  In  noting  his  leave-taking  of  the  Innuits,  he  records 
some  strong  expressions  of  a  regret  at  parting  from  those  with  whom 
he  had  companied  so  long ;  adding  that  they  had  learned  to  call  him 
"father,"  and  that  for  their  sakes  he  would  try  to  persuade  the  Hud- 
son Bay  Company  to  establish  a  factory  on  Repulse  Bay,  as  an 
enterprise  hopeful  of  good  to  both  parties.  He  was  now  certainly 
well  prepared  to  judge  of  this,  for  his  acquaintance  had  extended 
itself  to  a  number  of  tribes  inhabiting  the  middle  region  of  the  Conti- 
nent, and  to  this  acquaintance  was  added  his  previous  two  years'  expe- 
rience with  those  on  the  east  side — on  Cumberland  Gulf — as  well  as 
his  visit  to  Greenland. 

The  Ansell  Gibbs  left  Repulse  Bay  on  the  13th,  but  remained  at 
and  near  AVhale  Point,  (the  spot  on  which  Hall  had  hoped  first  to  land 
in  1864,)  until  the  28th,  Captain  Fisher  here  employing  his  crew  in 
further  boat  expeditions  in  search  of  whales.  Hall  and  Ebierbing  fre- 
quently engaged  in  hunting  on  shore,  securing  a  large  number  of  deer. 
Including  the  net  })i(»(hicts  of  a  Polar  bear,  also  killed  by  the  two 


AiiguHt,  IS69.]  Adventure  with  a  Polar.  429 

hunters,  the  total  weight  of  meat  placed  on  board  the  ship  for  their 
crew  fell  but  little  short  of  3,000  pounds,  the  result  of  nine  days'  work. 
The  story  of  a  hazardous  adventure  with  the  Polar  on  the  2Gth  is  thus 
told : 

Having  made  some  astronomical  observations,  I  commenced  computing 
them,  and  bad  not  been  long  occupied  before  Joe  cried  out  '■'■J^i-noo!  Ni-noo '.'''' 
when  at  once  I  dropped  pen  and  journal  and  jumped  out  of  tent,  and  took  a  look 
in  the  direction  Joe  pointed,  wbich  was  to  Whale  Point;  and  surely  there  was 
the  "JVl-woo."  We  watched  it  for  a  moment,  and  saw  it  walk  about,  make  a 
plunge  into  the  sea,  and  then  return  to  the  laud,  when  it  walked  up  on  the  hill- 
side of  Whale  Point  and  then  lay  down. 

We  were  not  long  getting  ready  for  the  prospective  adventurous  bear-hunt. 
I  say  advefiturous,  for  in  truth  we  knew  it  to  be  so.  We  had  no  dog  and  no  spears 
with  which  to  defend  ourselves  in  case  onr  fire-arms  failed  to  kill  outright  on  the 
first  shot;  and  then,  to  make  matters  more  uncertain,  our  percussion-caps  could 
not  be  depended  on  ;  quite  a  proportion  of  them  fiiil  to  take  fire.  If  we  should 
happen  simply  to  wound  the  bear,  that  would  make  it  furious,  and  there  was  no 
telling  the  end  of  its  human  slaying.  It  might,  as  we  all  thought,  make  its  way 
to  the  tent  during  the  absence  of  myself  and  Joe,  and  before  we  could  come  to 
the  rescue  of  Hannah  and  little  Pun-na  they  might  be  killed  by  the  wounded  and 
enraged  monster  beast.  With  all  this  no  very  flattering  view  of  the  case  we  con- 
cluded, however,  to  go  for  the  hunt.  As  Joe  and  myself  got  about  half-way  to 
Whale  Point  we  began  to  think  that  the  large  dirty  white  mass  we  saw  on 
Whale  Point  and  took  to  be  the  recumbent  ni-noo,  was  a  large  rock;  but  we  kept 
on  our  windings  and  let  the  ridges  of  rock-land  hide  ns  from  view  as  much  as 
possible.  At  length  we  came  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  sleeping  big  lion  of 
the  North,  and  then  behind  a  gentle  sloping  hill  we  watched  him.  At  the  same 
time  we  were  busy  putting  our  fire-arms  in  complete  order  for  the  forthcoming 
fray.  I  had  buck-shot  in  the  left.of  my  double-barrel ;  so  this  charge  I  drew  fortli 
and  replaced  it  with  an  ounce  ball,  and  then  I  was  ready  for  a  double  shot  if  the 
case  needed  it.  Our  huge  rock  proved  to  be  the  bear  after  all,  as  we  readily  i)er- 
ceived  on  arriving  at  the  place  where  we  stopped  to  get  our  arms  ready.  As 
we  watched  ni-noo,  we  noticed  that  every  few  minutes  he  would  raise  his  long- 
necked  head,  turn  it  this  way  and  that,— look  all  around,  snift"  the  air,— and  then 
replace  it  flat  down  on  the  smooth  rock-bed  on  which  he  was  then  napping. 

A  fresh  breeze  was  blowing  from  the  southwest,  and  every  now  and  then 
my  Joe  kept  plucking  out  little  tufts  of  deer-hair  from  his  dress,  lifting  them  up, 


430  Hall  Lmids  at  New  Bedford,  Massachusett'^.     [Sepit-mber,  isog. 

aud  giving  them  to  the  wind,  to  be  sure  that  we  were  keeping  our  persons  aloof 
from  all  possibility  of  the  bear  scenting  us.  All  sand  on  and  about  our  boots 
was  carefully  brushed  off",  so  that  our  last  stragetic  advance  toward  the  bear 
might  be  made  without  making  any  noise,  for  all  our  precautions  and  movements 
were  needed  to  be  from  sharper  forethought  and  ready  wit  than  are  required  in 
deer-hunting;  so  we  acted  accordingly.  At  length,  at  the  end  of  half  an  hour, 
we  left  our  final  preparation  spot,  and,  under  the  shelter  of  the  rocks,  stealthily, 
sloM'h',  and,  I  must  confess,  with  hearts  thumping  pit-a-pat,  advanced  directly  to- 
ward the  still  sleeping,  but  now  and  then  awaking,  beast  of  the  icy  wilderness. 
Every  few  steps  we  would  raise  the  heads  of  our  low-bended  bodies  to  catch  a  view 
of  the  awaking  of  our  foe  until  we  finally  reached  the  spot  we  desired,  which  was 
within  easy  gunshot.  It  was  quite  certain  that  we  had  the  bear  to  kill  outright,  or 
he  would  kill  us  if  only  wounded ;  for  on  the  discharge  of  our  arms  we  should  have 
nothing  whatever  with  which  to  defend  ourselves.  The  time  came  when  signals 
passed  between  myself  and  Joe;  he  fired,  and  the  next  instant  the  charge  from 
my  right  barrel  followed.  Joe's  ball  i)onetrated  the  brain  through  the  skull  in 
front,  knocking  the  bear  stifi';  mine  ploughed  its  way  through  the  jugular  of  the 
neck.  So  ni-noo  was  twice  killed  instantly.  It  proved  to  be  a  she-bear,  very  fat, 
but  Avithout  a  particle  of  anything  in  her  paunch.  We  skinned  and  quartered  and 
placed  all  underneath  the  skin,  close  by  a  rock,  and  ready  for  the  Ansell  Gibbs. 

The  whaler  left  the  Welcome  on  the  28th,  passed  through  Hud- 
son's Bay  and  Straits  without  the  occurrence  of  any  incident  of  unusual 
interest,  and  came  into  the  harbor  of  New  Bedford,  Mass.,  Septem- 
ber 26th. 

When  nearing  the  light-house  off  Nantucket,  Mass.,  Hannah  and 
and  lier  child  doffed  their  native  dresses  for  those  of  a  civilized  land. 
At  tlic  l^arker  House,  New  Bedford,  Hall  made  his  last  journal  entry: 
"  September  26,  1869,  2  p.  m. :— How  thankful  to  High  Heaven  ought 
m}'  poor  heart  to  be  for  the  blessed  privilege  of  again  placing  my  foot 
uj)on  tlio  land  of  my  country." 

He  immediately  telegraphed  his  arrival  to  >\Ir.  Henry  Grinnell, 
expressing  liis  ]io])e  oi  seeing  liim  in  a  few  days  in  New  York.  Within 
\\\<'  next  iiK.iitli.  he  was  at  work  in  tliat  city  for  tlie  Nf>rtli  Polar  Expe- 
dition of  1 s7  1 . 


Conclusion.  431 


CONCLUSION  OF  THE  NARRATIVE. 

It  will  not  be  expected  that  Hall's  biography  will  be  found  here. 
His  three  Expeditions,  together  with  the  weary  labors  of  the  years  of 
preparation  which  preceded  each,  are  his  true  memorials.  The  Nar- 
ratives of  his  first  voyage  and  of  his  third  (the  Polaris)  sufficiently  dis- 
prove the  idea  which  has  been  sometimes  hastily  expressed  that  he 
was  an  ignorant  and  visionary  dreamer;  and  the  impress  on  the  minds 
of  any  who  may  inspect  the  precise  and  often  graj^hic  journals  of  the 
years  with  which  the  present  Narrative  has  had  to  deal,  will  be  that 
which  the  evidences  of  a  frank  truthfulness  create  :  the  manifestation 
of  an  indomitable  will,  energy,  and  perseverance  in  the  devout  pursuit 
of  a  single  object.  He  believed  it  attainable,  and  believed  himself 
called  to  it  as  to  his  life-work. 

The  testimony  of  one  who,  next  to  the  late  Mr.  Grinnell,  could 
most  justly  estimate  his  character,  is  emphatically  clear  on  the  points 
that  "Hall  was  a  single-minded  trusting  man,  who  believed  that  others 
were  like  himself  His  enthusiasm  concerning  his  favorite  objects  was 
extreme  and  abiding,  and  gave  tone  and  color  to  all  his  words  and 
acts.  His  very  want  of  general  knowledge  and  his  defiencies  in  spe- 
cial departments  of  science  made  him  more  fit  for  an  explorer  than  a 
scholar  or  scientist  could  have  been.  He  looked  upon  explorations 
and  all  which  appertained  to  the  increase  of  geographical  knowledge 
ns  far  above  all  else;  and  this  childlike  or  single  purpose  explains  the 
man's  career.     The  more  information  he  could  gather,  the  happier  he 


432  Puhlic  Tributes  to  Hall. 

felt.  It  was,  indeed,  the  disappointment  produced  by  the  obstacles 
thrown  in  his  way  on  his  third  Expedition,  which  probably  caused  his 
death  on  the  Polaris  in  Xovember,  1871."  With  this  estimate,  delib- 
erately formed  by  Mr.  Brevoort,  of  Brooklyn,  from  personal  and  close 
acquaintance,  the  judgments  of  a  number  of  other  friends  have  been 
found  to  coincide.  In  preparing-  this  Narrative  they  have  been  the 
more  willingly  received  in  the  lack  of  all  personal  acquaintance  with 
Hall. 

Official  and  public  acknowledgments  of  Hall's  worth  have  freely 
appeared — in  the  language  of  the  National  Academy  of  Sciences  before 
quoted,  in  the  appointment  conferred  on  him  by  the  Executive  of  the 
United  States  in  1871,  in  the  award  of  the  gold  medal  made  by  the 
Paris  Geographical  Society  in  187(),^  and  in  the  courteous  tributes  paid 
at  his  grave  by  the  late  English  Arctic  Expedition  under  Captain 
Nares. 

The  extreme  discomforts,  exposures,  and  labors  incident  to  a 
residence  among  the  Eskimos  were  not  unforeseen  when  he  entered 
on  even  his  first  Expedition  ;  and  his  experience  then  must  have  led 
him  to  anticipate  that  greater  trials  would  be  his  lot  on  a  second  and 
longer  banishment  from  civilized  life.  ]jut  he  avowed,  as  has  been 
seen,  a  v.illingness  to  remain  out  for  a  term  of  even  ten  years,  if  this 
should  pi'ove  a  necessity.  He  must  have  felt  that  he  could  trust  his 
two  Eskimo  friends  throughout  a  protracted  stay  in  a  country  in  which 
they  would  find  themselves  among  their  own  race,  and  yet  it  is  surpris- 
ing that,  even  with  their  unchanging  help,  he  could  control  unharmed 
so  many  of  the  Innuits,  subordinate  their  chief,  Oii-e-la,  to  his  purposes, 
and,  with  such  slender  resources,  secure  the  success  he  attained.     His 

T'or  n  facsimile  of  this  medal  and  a  translation  of  the  report  made  by  Mr.  V.  A.  Maltc 
Brim  to  the  Socidtd  de  Geograpliic  of  Paris,  avIu.  conferred  it,  sec  ('hni)ter  XXV  of  the  "Narra- 
tive of  the  North  Polar  Expedition  of  1H71." 


Honest  Records.  433 

notes  say  :  "  Nothing-  but  an  experience  of  years  could  enable  me  to 
control  such  untamable  eagles,"  Unquestionably,  the  known  presence 
of  the  whalers  in  Eepulse  Ba}'  had  much  to  do  with  his  maintenance 
of  authority,  and  next  to  this  was  his  ability  to  supply  the  wants  of 
the  natives  when  suffering ;  and  yet,  perhaps,  above  both  of  these 
must  be  placed  his  politic  concession  to  their  low  prejudices  and  his 
self-control.  Very  frequently  in  the  journals  appear  proofs  of  his  hasty 
judgments,  and  of  suspicions  of  evil  intended  against  himself  by  the 
whaling  captains  as  well  as  by  the  Innuits  ;  but  as  frequently  appear 
also  proofs  of  his  repressing  such  feelings,  and  recording  his  regrets  at 
his  having  given  place  to  them  in  his  notes  or  in  his  heart.  The  nu- 
merous delays  experienced  by  his  restless  spirit  from  the  indolence  and 
especially  from  the  superstitions  of  the  natives — delays  at-  critical 
times  too — were  trying  to  his  temper.  They  were  placed  to  the 
wrong  account  when  they  gave  room  for  his  imagination  to  credit 
them  to  purposes  of  evil  design.  But  his  feelings  were  naturally 
stirred  Avith  something  besides  pity  when  he  found  himself  unable  to 
obtain  proper  subsistence  in  the  hut  or  move  forward  on  a  journey, 
l)ecause  the  Innuits  would  neither  eat  nor  suffer  others  to  eat  a  certain 
kind  of  food  on  a  given  day,  or  work  until  a  certain  time  had  passed  : — 
To  estimate  all  of  which  aright,  Hall  must  be  thought  of  as  a  single 
white  man,  alone  among  the  degraded  and  habituating  himself  to 
such  degraded  modes  of  life  with  them  as  can  be  excused  only  in  the 
light  of  his  subordinating  everything  to  his  one  purpose,  and  the 
necessity  of  his  so  living  in  order  to  avoid  the  visits  of  scurvy.* 

*  In  confirmation  of  the  opinions  just  expressed,  as  derived  from  Hall's  journals,  the  follow- 
ing extracts  are  given,  by  permission,  from  the  journal  of  Mr.  William  Craue,  jr.,  of  Baltimore, 
Md.,  who  in  the  summer  of  1867  visited  Hall  from  the  Era,  commanded  byCapt.  George  E.  Tyson. 

"  Thuksday,  August  15,  1867. — At  12  m.,  took  in  sail  and  ran  in  under  jib  and  foresail  into  a 

S.  Ex.  27 28 


434  Jlr.  Crane^s   Visit  to  Hall  at  Repulse  Bay,  1867. 

It  will  be  a  harsh  criticism  which  pronounces  his  judgment  defect- 
ive, or  its  exercise  hast  v.  He  demonstrated  the  correctness  of  his 
belief  in  the  possibility  of  living  for  a  long  period  out  of  the  pale 
of  civilized  life  by  his  own  passing  through  such  a  term  without 
extreme  suffering  or  any  long  illness.  He  was  not,  then,  far  out  of 
the  way  in  judging  that  some  of  Franklin's  men  also  might  have  been 
found  so  living,  and  even  for  a  period  of  ten  years. 

His  abilitv,  industry,  and  perseverance,  manifest  in  the  endur- 
ance of  so  long  an  absence  from  the  endearments  of  country  and  home 
and  in  his  subjection  to  the  revolting  customs  of  the  degraded  around 
him,  are  yet  more  manifest  in  the  victories  over  what  again  and  again 

cosy  harbor  formed  by  three  small  islands  at  the  head  of  Repulse  Bay,  lat.  66°  26'  N.,  long.  86°  22' 
W.     Mr.  Hall's  (the  Arctic  explorer)  tent  and  quarters  are  on  headland  to  the  westward  of  us. 

"  Friday,  .ilw^M^^  16,  1867. — *  ^  #  *  Coming  aboard  at  4  j).  ni.,  found  the  ship  crowded 
with  natives ;  the  tirst  I  have  seen.  Mr.  Hall  and  party,  sent  out  by  Mr.  H.  Grinnell,  of  New  York, 
came  aboard  and  were  hospitably  received.  Accepted  an  invitation  to  visit  Hall  ashore  ;  shall 
])robably  do  so  to-morrow.  Conversed  for  fully  an  hour  with  the  explorer.  Found  that  he  had 
read  almost  everything  that  had  ever  been  written  on  the  sul)ject  of  Arctic  exploration.  Judging 
from  his  conversation,  1  should  not  call  him  an  educated,  but  certainly  an  intelligent  man. 

"Saturday,  AikjuhI  17,  1867. — Called  upon  Hall  as  I  was  returning  from  an  expedition  to 
the  mainland.  His  tupik,  or  seal-skin  tent,  was  jiitched  not  very  far  from  our  anchorage,  on  the 
side  of  a  rocky  headland  called  by  the  natives  Tita-totv-yak-loo-Iik  (Bloodless  Laud),  and  which 
I  subsequently  discovered  was  the  sonthornmost  point  of  Melville  Peninsula.  When  I  visited 
Hall  ashore,  I  found  him  "at  home"  amid  the  usual  repugnant  accessories  of  Arctic  life,  clothed 
in  Innuit  costume,  seated  a  la  Tare  on  a  deer-skin  rng ;  an  lunuit  squaw  on  one  side  and  her 
husband  on  the  other.  An  intelligent  looking  native  dog  crouched  lazily  at  his  feet.  These 
three  companions,  the  Escjuimaux  man,  woman,  and  dog,  I  was  afterward  informed,  had  been  the 
explorer's  constant  and  faithful  adherents  in  all  his  perilous  wanderings.  Hall's  quarters  in 
no  wise  differed  from  the  InuTiit  habitations  generally.  Their  interior  i)resented  fully  as  repul- 
sive a  spectacle  as  I  had  evc^r  witnessed  in  any  African  hut  or  Indian  wigwam.  I  was  told  by 
him  that  this  mode  of  life  was  entirely  from  choice,  and  that  in  accommodating  himself  to  it  he 
was  only  preparing  for  future  struggles  against  the  rigors  and  perils  of  this  frightful  climate. 
He  said  that  he  felt  capable  of  enduring  severer  hardshijis  than  ever  he  had  yet  undergone,  and 
was  satisfied  that  in  accustoming  himself  to  native  habits  and  native  diet  he  was  adopting  the 
only  sure  method  of  escaping  the  great  Arctic  curse — scurvy.  During  our  short  sojourn  in  Re- 
l)ulse  Bay  I  had  re])eated  long  and  interesting  conversations  with  him.  He  had  then  just  re- 
turned from  a  long  sledge  journey  to  the  westward,  and  was  contemi>lating  .another,  which 
would  be  still  further  westward,  to  King  William's  Land  in  February.  If  this  expedition  realized 
liis  expectatious,  he  proposed  to  return  as  soon  as  jtracticable  to  the  United  States,  when  ho 
would  endeavor  to  enlist  the  aid  of  the  Goverinncnt.  and  extend  the  scope  of  his  explorations  so 
as  to  embrace  the  dincoverv  of  the  NorthwcHt  Passaiie." 


Serious  Obstacles  Overcome.  435 

seemed  to  be  insurmountable  obstacles.  Through  the  years  of  strug- 
gle for  an  outfit,  hope  was  more  than  once  instantly  crushed  at  the 
moment  when  success  seemed  sure;  at  the  time  of  his  first  landing 
in  the  Arctic  Regions  the  mistake  of  his  captain  cost  him  a  whole 
year's  advance;  on  his  first  practicable  forward  movement  his  fright- 
ened party  turned  back  his  steps ;  when  provisions  and  stores  were 
again  ready  he  could  secure  no  team ;  and  after  a  severe  journey  in 
mid-winter,  on  his  return  could  obtain  no  men  ; — and  when  at  last,  in 
the  fifth  year  he  stood  on  King  William's  Land,  it  was  to  be  hurried 
away  before  the  summer's  sun  could  lift  the  snow-pall  from  the  treas- 
ures he  was  seeking. 

Would  it  not  have  been  the  record  of  many  others  that,  after 
gi-appling"  with  some  only  of  such  difficulties,  they  would  have  found 
themselves  at  the  close  of  any  one  year  of  disappointment  safe  on 
board  a  hospitable  whaler  f  Would  not  many  have  justified  them- 
selves when  returning  to  their  country  and  reporting  insuperable 
obstacles  ?  Expeditions  largely  equipped,  and  led  by  men  of  Arctic 
experience  and  of  brave  heart,  have  more  than  once  so  returned  to 
be  justified  and  honored  by  their  countrymen.  Hall  had  an  uncon- 
querable determination  to  accomplish  something,  and  if  this  be  called 
a  mere  enthusiasm,  it  was  an  enthusiasm  which  led  him  to  endure  and 
fight  his  way  and  patiently  await  new  issues,  and  again  endure  and 
fight  and  conquer.  Without  such  an  iron  will  he  would  never  have 
remained  within  these  desolate  reg-ions  throuo:h  fiive  Arctic  winters 
enduring  the  squalid  wretchedness  of  the  snow-huts ;  nor  have  made 
his  sledge  journeys  to  Pelly  Bay,  to  Cape  Weynton,  to  Ig-loo-lik,  to 
Fury  and    Hecla  Straits,   to    Lyon's    Inlet,   and    to    King  William's 


436  The   Weak  Part  of  HalTs  Record. 

Land,  ao'greg-atino"  more  tlian  3,000  miles.  His  vovag-e  out  and  return, 
his  surveying  work  around  Repulse  Bay,  and  the  sledge  jou)-neys  just 
referred  to,  foot  up  in  miles  a  considerable  excess  over  the  figures 
10,000. 

It  has  not  been  out  of  place  to  say  that,  besides  the  extreme  of  enthu- 
siasm, a  fascination  for  Arctic  life  seems  to  have  laid  hold  upon  him — 
the  fascination  which  in  one  or  another  form  makes  the  traveler  restless 
while  off  from  his  journey,  as  it  does  the  sailor  when  off  the  sea.  If 
it  seem  strange  to  the  landsman  that  the  shipwrecked  mariner  is  ready 
for  a  new  cruise,  and,  in  his  own  feelings,  safer  in  a  storm  on  the  sea 
than  on  the  land,  it  is  as  strange  to  contemplate  the  eager  return  to 
Arctic  adventure  and  dangers  b}^  such  sufferers  as  Franklin,  Back, 
Kichardson,  Hall,  and  their  comrades.  Faith  in  an  overruling  Provi- 
dence and  in  the  cardinal  doctrines  of  the  Christian  religion  was 
evidently  inwrought  in  them ;  in  Hall,  probably  from  the  date  of 
his  earliest  home  training.  Full  expression  of  this  is  found  in  his 
journals. 

The  weakest  part  of  the  record  for  the  years  of  which  this 
KaiTative  speaks  is,  perhaps,  his  permitting  himself  to  tuni  aside  from 
his  long-proposed  journey  to  King  William's  Land  and  lose  a  year  by 
his  visit  to  the  straits  of  Fury  and  Hecla.  His  motive,  however,  for 
this  was  sincerely  in  keeping  with  the  purposes  of  the  expedition.  The 
possibility  of  yet  finding  a  survivor  of  Franklin's  party  again  loomed* 
up  before  his  enthusiastic  view,  and  he  thought  himself  fully  justified 
ill  iiinking  search  for  traces  of  those  of  whom  the  Innuits  so  confi- 
<l('iitly  nnd  unitedly  spoke  as  existing  in  the  Peninsula.  If  his  judg- 
ment wfLS  tlien  at  fault,  his  motives  were  as  commendable  as  tliev  had 


International  Tributes  437 

been  when  expressed  in  the  draughting  of  the  plans  for  liis  first  outtit, 
or  when  he  wrote  in  answer  to  Lady  Franklin's  proposal  that  lie 
should  go  out  a  third  time  for  the  record:  "As  for  pay,  I  should 
ask  nothing," 

Sir  George  Nares,  commanding  the  late  English  Arctic  Expe- 
dition of  1875,  has  recorded  in  his  official  report  to  Parliament  his 
testimonials  to  Hall's  fidelity  as  an  Arctic  explorer: — 

"  The  coast-line  was  observed  to  be  continuous  for  about  thirty 
miles,  forming  a  bay,  bounded  toward  the  west  by  the  U.  S.  range 
of  mountains,  with  Mounts  Mary  and  Julia  and  Cape  Joseph  Henry, 
agreeing  so  well  with  HalVs  description,  that  it  was  impossible  to  mis- 
take their  identity.  Their  bearings  also,  although  differing  upwards 
of  30°  from  those  of  the  published  chart,  agreed  precisely  with  his 
published  report" 

On  the  13th  of  May  (1876),  in  the  presence  of  twenty-four  offi- 
cers and  men,  Captain  Stephenson,  of  the  English  Expedition,  hoisted 
the  American  flag  over  the  grave  of  Captain  Hall,  and  at  the  foot 
erected  a  brass  tablet,  prepared  in  England,  bearing  the  following 
inscription: 

SACRED  TO   THE   MEMORY   OF 

CAPTAIN  C.  V.  HALL, 

Of  the  U.  S.  S. ''Polaris 

Who  Sacrificed  his  Life  iu  the  advancement  of  Science,  November  8th,  187L 

This  Tablet  has  been  erected  by  the  British  Polar  Expedition  of  1875, 

Who,  following  in  his  footsteps,  have  profited  by  his  Experience. 

He  also  reported  to  Captain  Nares  that  the  grave  was  found  in  an 
excellent  state  of  preservation.     The  willow  planted  by  Tyson  was 


438  The   Grave   Vis'ittd  hij  Captain  Stephenson,  Jl.  X. 

still  alive.     The  iii.seriptioii  put  upon  it  in  July,  1871,  by  Hall's  com- 
rades, still  read: 

TO    THE    MKMOltY    OK 

CHARLES  FRANCIS  HALL, 

Late  Coiiiiiiaiider  V.  S.  Steamer  Polaris,  N.  Pole  ExjHHlition, 

Died  Nov.  f^,  1871. — Aged  50  years. 

"I  am  the  Resurrection  and  the  life:  lie  that  helieveth  on  Me  though  he  were  dead 

vet  shall  he  live." 


HAPTER       X 


ADDITIONAL  NOTES— HALL'S  TWO  ESKIMO  FRIENDS- 
THEIR  RELA^ITVES— THE  GRAVES  IN  THE  CEME- 
TERY  AT   GROTON,    CONNECTICUT. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 


Hall's  Eskimo  Friends  : — Ebierbing  (Joe)  and  Too-koo-li-too  (Hannah) — Their  Children- 
Joe's  Cousins — The  Inscriptions  in  the  Cemetery  at  Groton,  Connecticut. 

At  the  close  of  this  Narrative,  it  may  be  conceded  as  something  due 
in  simple  justice  to  the  two  Eskimos  who  have  been  so  frequently  named 
within  the  previous  pages,  that  a  few  items  of  their  personal  history  be 
recorded.  Through  all  the  trials  of  Hall's  three  expeditions — a  period 
of  more  than  ten  years — they  were  not  only  his  steadfast  friends,  but 
indispensable  supporters  without  whom  he  could  never  have  carried 
forward  his  investigations,  or  have  kept,  in  some  emergencies,  even  his 
life  among  the  Innuits.  Joe  Ebierbing  was,  as  has  frequently  appeared 
ill  the  Narrative,  Hall's  dependence  as  hunter.  On  repeated  occasions, 
by  his  native  skill  in  the  use  of  the  lance  and  line  and  by  his  readily 
learned  use  of  the  rifle,  he  procured  food  in  the  darkest  days  of  want, 
not  for  Hall  alone,  but  often  for  the  less  skillful  and  suffering  Innuits 
around  him : — materially  aiding  Hall  by  this  beyond  the  bare  support 
of  the  lives  saved,  and  gaining  for  the  expedition  lasting  good-will  and 
help.  Hannah  was  perhaps  the  more  intelligent  and,  as  a  woman, 
naturally  of  quicker  perception  in  the  things  of  every-day  life  which 
would  serve  the  necessities  of  the  white  man  among  strangers.  She 
proved  an  interpreter  without  whom  every  effort  to  understand  the 
natives  of  Cumberland  Gulf,  of  Repulse  Bay,  of  Ig-loo-lik,  of  Pelly 
Bay,  or  of  the  country  on  the  route  to  King  William's  Land,  w^ould 
have  been  hopeless — every  one  of  Hall's  journeys  and  talks  with  the 
Innuits  nearly  useless. 

441 


442  Joe  and  Hannah   Driftinf/  !>//  their  Home. 

But  beyond  all  this,  the  heroic  conduct  of  these  two  on  the  last  of 
Hall's  voyages  claims  a  tribute.  It  must  be  very  plain  to  every  reader 
of  the  Narrative  of  that  Polaris  voyage  that  these  Eskimos  saved  the 
lives  of  Tyson's  party  on  the  fearful  ice-floe  drift  of  more  than  1,200 
miles. 

In  the  early  days  of  that  suffering,  when  the  floe  was  drifting 
j)ast  Cumberland  Sound  and  was  nearl}'  opposite  their  native  ])lace, 
the  temptation  presented  itself  to  this  couple  to  escape  to  the  main- 
land. "Father  Hall"  was  gone  from  them,  and,  at  that  time,  there 
were  just  grounds  of  fear  within  their  breasts  that,  in  the  almost 
famishing  condition  of  the  white  men,  some  of  them  might  make  the 
Eskimos  the  first  victims,  if  the  direst  necessity  should  come. 

Hannah  listened  to  no  words  of  such  persuasion,  but  strengthened 
Joe's  purpose  to  remain ;  a  hunter  for  the  seal  and  the  bear  was  thus 
still  to  be  at  hand  for  the  saving  of  men  whose  skill  in  such  hunts  was 
])lainly  as  unequal  to  their  need  as  was  their  diminished  strength.  Of 
his  true  worth  in  this  respect  the  most  convincing  proof  came  toward 
the  last  days  of  those  dark  months  The  story  of  this  is  told  on  the 
568tli  page  of  Admiral  Davis's  Narrative,  where  it  will  be  found 
recorded  that  on  the  22d  of  April,  1<S73,  when  Tyson's  })arty  on 
the  floe,  weakened  by  their  six  months'  exposures,  were  on  that 
day  half-drowned,  cold,  and  almost  literally  without  a  morsel  of 
food,  Joe,  on  going  out  for  the  fourth  time  to  watch,  saw  a  bear 
coming  toward  the  party,  hurried  back  for  his  gun,  and,  requesting 
all  hands  to  lie  perfectly  still,  returned  with  his  companion  Hans* 

*  Ham?  own  story  of  his  experience  with  Hall's  party,  and  with  the  expeditions  of  Dr. 
Kane,  Dr.  Hayes,  and  C.iptaiu  Nares,  has  been  lately  published  in  a  translation  from  the  Greenland 
tonf^ue  by  Doctor  Henry  Rink,  author  of  "Tales  and  Traditions  of  the  Eskimos,"  and  of  other 
works.  Hans'  story  of  his  share  in  the  cxj)editions  will  be  read  with  interest; — and  his  odd  ac- 
count of  his  visit  to  W.-isiliington.  wln-n  hrf)ii;j;lit  to  the  eity  nitli  others  of  th«^  rescued  Moe  ]>arty. 


g,fM^.-(J^ 


From  a  photograph  by  C.  W.  Pach,  New  York. 


Hcliolj/pt  Printing  Co.,  S^tUn. 


Joe  and  Hannah  Taken  to  Uitfjland.  443 

and  with  his  aid  instantly  killed  the  ferocious  animal.  At  this  point 
in  his  Narrative  Admiral  Davis  says:  ''But  for  the  rifles  in  this  extreme 
emergency,  this  story  would  not  have  been  written." 

Joe  and  Hannah  were  natives  of  Cumberland  Inlet,  where  Capt. 
S.  O.  Budington,  of  Groton,  first  met  them  in  the  fall  of  1851,  on  the 
island  of  Kim-ick-su-ic, — an  island  that  gets  its  name  from  its  flat 
center,  which,  covered  with  grass,  gives  it  the  look  of  a  dog-skin. 
Captain  Budington  wintered  there  (in  about  lat.  65°  30',  long.  62°) 
when  in  command  of  the  McLellan,  of  New  London.  Hannah,  who 
was  born  at  Cape  Serrel,  on  the  west  side  of  Davis  Strait,  was  at  the 
time  of  Captain  Budington's  visit  only  about  twelve  years  of  age,  and 
Joe,  who  was  then  married  to  another  woman,  seemed  to  Budington  at 
that  time  "as  old  as  he  does  to-daj."  Cape  Serrel  was  a  whaling 
station,  much  visited  by  English  and  American  sailors,  and  frequented 
by  the  Eskimos  of  Cumberland  Gulf  for  trade.  A  few  years  after- 
ward, Mr.  Bolby,  a  merchant  of  Hull,  became  much  interested  in  these 
two  persons,  and  took  them  with  him  in  his  own  vessel  on  his  return 
voyage  from  the  Gulf  In  England  he  treated  them  as  his  guests  with 
great  liberality.  They  were  married  in  his  house  in  the  presence  of  a 
large  company,  and,  with  Mr.  Bolby,  visited,  in  their  native  costume, 
many  places  in  England  and  Scotland,  and  were  presented  to  Queen 
Victoria,  and  dined  with  her  and  the  Prince  Consort.  Hannah  always 
spoke  of  the  Queen  as  "very  kind,  very  much  lady." 

Two  years  afterward  they  returned  to  Cumberland  Inlet,  and 
there  Hall  first  met  them  in  1860.  Joe  had  just  piloted  two  English 
vessels  into  Cornelius  Grinnell  Bay  through  a  narrow  channel  more 
than  one  hundred  miles  in  length.  Both  Joe  and  Hannah  next  accom- 
panied Hall  through  all  those  investigations  which  led  to  the  discovery 


444  Their  First   Visit  to  the   United  States. 

of  Frobisher's  Bay  and  the  Frobislier  relics  ;  in  1862  they  came  with 
him  to  the  United  States. 

Hannah's  willingness  to  leave  her  country  seems  to  have  been 
produced  by  her  desire  to  keep  with  her,  her  husband,  who  was  at  the 
time  being  persuaded  to  leave  her  for  another  wife.  His  uncle  U-gack 
was  reported  as  having  had  twenty  wives,  three  of  them  living  with 
him  at  one  time.  At  the  time  of  Hall's  return  to  the  United  States, 
Joe,  who  had  been  sick,  was  ordered  by  the  an-ge-Jco  to  take  another 
wife  as  the  only  way  to  get  well;  but  to  his  own  best  future  success, 
as  is  well  known,  he  came  over  with  Hannah  to  the  United  States. 
His  father  had  died  when  quite  young ;  his  half-brother  Ita-loo,  left 
on  the  island,  was  met  with  in  the  year  1873  by  Captain  Greer, 
U.  S.  N  ,  of  the  relief  ship  Tigress,  came  with  him  to  New  York,  spent 
the  winter  in  Groton,  and  died  shortly  after  getting  back  to  his 
native  land. 

Joe  and  Hannah,  after,  as  has  been  shown,  assisting  Hall  in  his 
preparations  for  the  Second  Expedition,  and  closely  attending  him 
through  the  years  1864—1869,  again  accompanied  him  on  his  last 
voyage  in  the  Polaris,  1871,  and  returned  to  the  United  States  with 
the  Floe  Party.  They  were  as  much  attached  to  "  Father  Hall,"  as 
he  was  to  them. 

In  a  home  purchased  for  them  by  him,  in  Groton,  Connecticut, 
they  again  commenced  housekeeping  in  1873,  readily  adapting  them- 
selves to  the  customs  of  civilized  life.  Joe  became  a  good  carpenter 
and  farm-hand,  retaining  his  old  love  for  fishing.  Hannah  was  soon 
skillful  in  making  up,  with  the  help  of  her  sewing-machine,  furs  and 
other  salable  articles  for  the  people  of  New  London  and  Groton. 

Their  first  child,  Tu-ke-li-ke-ta,  had  died  in  New  York  in  the  winter 


Ilannah^s  Death.  445 

of  1803;  the  second  had  been  buried  on  the  first  sledge  journey  to 
King  William's  Land  in  18G6;  a  third,  which  Joe  adopted  in  1868,  with 
tlie  consent  of  its  parents  and  by  the  gii't  of  a  sled  to  them  from  Hall, 
came  with  him  to  the  United  States  in  18G9,  Hannah  named  this 
child  Sylvia,  after  her  friend  Miss  Grinnell.  The  girl  was  an  intelli- 
gent scholar  at  the  Groton  school  until  her  death  in  1875. 

The  health  of  this  couple  had  been  repeatedly  broken  daring  the 
long  period  of  suffering  of  the  years  1864  to  1869;  and  they  do  not 
seem  to  have  been  readily  acclimated  in  the  United  States.  The  terri- 
ble experience  of  the  ice-floe  especially  had  left  severe  traces  on  them. 
During  the  year  1876,  Hannah  suffered  much  with  that  fatal  disease 
consumption ;  a  disease  which  carries  off  the  larger  number  of  her 
race.  It  had  been  long  gaining  upon  her.  She  bitterly  felt  the  loss 
of  her  last  child  and  the  absence  of  her  husband,  who,  after  having 
been  again  out  in  the  Arctic  Regions  with  Capt.  Allen  Young,  of  the 
Pandora,  was  then  doing  good  service  on  board  a  vessel  belonging  to 
the  United  States  Fish  Commission.  Hannah  had  become  a  true 
Christian:  read  her  Bible,  and  showed  a  quiet,  good  life.  After  a 
season  of  protracted  suffering,  throughout  which  she  was  tenderly 
cared  for  by  Mrs.  Captain  Budington  and  other  friends  in  Groton,  she 
breathed  her  last,  as  the  old  year  went  out,  December  31,  1876,  at  the 
early  age  of  38.  Her  death  was  tranquil.  Among  her  last  words  was 
the  petition,  "Come,  Lord  Jesus,  and  take  thy  poor  creature  home!" 

In  June,  1878,  Joe  again  sailed  for  the  Arctic  zone  with  the  party 
spoken  of  in  the  Preliminary  Chapter  as  sent  out  by  Morison  & 
Brown,  of  New  York,  and  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Schwatka,  to 
prosecute  a  renewed  search  for  the  records  of  Sir  John  Franklin's 
Expedition.     Mr.  J.  Carson  Brevoort,  of  New  York,   Mr.  J.  J.  Copp, 


446 


The  Eskimo   Tomhstones  at  Grolon. 


Captain  Biidington,  and  others,  had  unhesitatingly  renewed  their 
indorsement  of  the  industry,  honesty,  and  truthfulness  of  this  simple- 
minded  Eskimo  man,  who  has  received  from  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment much  less  compensation  for  noble  services  than  perhaps  any 
other  one  of  the  Polaris  Expedition. 

MEMORIALS. 

Tn  the  quiet  cemetery  on  the  hillside  of  Groton  may  be  found 
a  few  tombstones  set  up  by  its  citizens  in  memory  of  nearly  all 
the  Eskimos  who  have  visited  the  United  States,  One  of  these 
stones  bears  the  name  of  him  who,  going  out  with  Hall,  died  on  board 
the  George  Henry  while  eagerly  inquiring  as  he  again  neared  his 
native  land,  "Do  a'ou  see  ice,  iref^ 

CrD-LAR-GO. 
Died  July  1.  IriW. 

On  another  tombstone  will  be  read  : 

O r-SE-GOXG  (JEANNIE. ) 
Died  .July  1st,  1p'()7.     Aged  2H  years. 


h3 
O 
in 

H 
O 

•z 
o 
c 
jz; 

n 
c 
5: 

2: 

n 

H 

n 
c; 
H 


O 

o 

H 
O 
2; 

c 
•z 

H 

a 
H 


i 


The  Eslxlmo   TotitkstoHes  at  Grotori. 


447 


Ou-se-gong  was   a  cousin   of  Joe  and  wife  of  Kud-lup-pa-mune, 
known  by  the  whalers  as  "Abbott." 


Captain  Budington  brought  these  two  Eskimos  from  Cumberland 
Inlet  to  New  London  in  1866;  on  their  return  with  him  the  next 
year,  Jeannie  died  on  the  voya(>'e. 

Two  smaher  headstones  put  up  for  Hannah's  children  have  on 
them  the  inscriptions : 


And 


TUKE-LI-KE-TA: 
Died  Feb  28,  1863.     Aged  18  months. 

SYLVIA  GRIXXELL  EBIERBIXG. 

(Punua.) 

Born  at  Igloolik  July,  1866. 

Died  March  18,  1875. 

"0/  such  in  the  Khif/dom  of  Heaven." 

She  was  a  survivor  of  the  Pohiris  Expedition  nnder  Commander  Charles  Francis  Hall, 
and  was  picked  ni>  with  19  others  from  an  ice  tloe  April  30,  1873,  after  a  drift  on  the  ice  for  a 
period  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  days  and  a  distance  of  over  twelve  hundred  miles. 

On  a  visit  to  these  graves,  when  making  inquiries  of  Eskimo  Joe 
in  ]-egard  to  some  facts  for  use  in  tliis  Narrative,  lie  was  observed  to 


448  Joe^s  Love  for  Hannah. 

kneel  at  Hannah's  grave  and  carefully  weed  out  the  long*  grass.  Then 
turning  to  his  visitors,  he  said,  ''Hannah  gone!  Punna  gone!  Me  go 
now  again  to  King  William's  Land  ;  if  have  to  fight,  me  no  care." 

Over  the  grave  of  the  faithful  Hannah,  the  interpreter  of  each 
expedition,  and  the  friend  who  wept  at  Hall's  burial,  has  recently  been 
placed  an  elegant  granite  headstone,  with  the  monogram  J.  &  H.  and 
an  Inscription,  designed  for  her  by  Mr.  J.  J.  Copp  and  other  true 
friends. 

Note. — The  usual  tippellatiou,  Eskimo,  has  been  retained  for  Joe  and  Hannah  throughout 
this  Narrative  because  they  were  found  to  bo  so  named  in  Hall's  journals  and  by  those  who  knew 
them  while  they  were  in  the  United  States.  It  has  been  learned  only  while  printing  this  last 
page  that  Cai^tain  Hall  said  these  two  and  their  people  so  disliked  the  name  Eskimo  as  to  be 
oft'ended  when  they  heard  themselves  so  called,  instead  of  Innuits.  It  is  perhaps  an  interesting 
question  whether  this  preference  for  the  name  Inniiit  is  to  be  attributed  to  any  tribal  antipathy 
to  the  natives  residing  further  east  iu  Greenland.  It  would  seem  to  confirm  the  judgment  of 
Mr.  Dall,  quoted  on  page  62  of  the  Narrative. 

For  further  instructive  comparisons  of  the  races  occupying  the  Northern  Section  of  the 
Continent  see  "Tales  and  Traditions  of  the  Eskimos,"  by  Dr.  Henry  Eink.  Director  for  the  Danish 
Government  in  Greenland.    London,  1875. 


n/  6nr^  A    o-^ 


From  a  photograph  by  T.  W.  SmilHe,  Washington,  D.  C. 


APPENDIX    I. 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS   MADE   BY  C.   F.   HALL  ON   HIS 
SECOND  ARCTIC  EXPEDITION,  1864-18G9. 


449 


.^ppEisrDTx:  T. 


ASTRONOMICAL  OBSERVATIONS,  1864-18G9. 


NOTES  ON  THE  OBSERVATIONS. 

Hjill  took  with  liiiii  in  1SG4  two  sextants,  a  box  and  a  pocket  chronometer, 
several  compasses,  and  a  dip-circle;  the  last  instrument  and  one  of  the  sextants 
being  loaned  to  him  from  the  United  States  Coast  Survey. 

From  the  experience  of  his  first  exiiedition,  and  from  some  farther  practice 
in  the  use  of  instruments  after  his  return  to  New  York,  he  hoped  that  he  woidd 
succeed  in  making  some  observations  of  scientific  value,  as  well  as  extend  the 
knowledge  of  Arctic  geography. 

In  considering  the  observations  here  given,  due  allowance  will  be  generously 
accorded  for  errors  for  which  he  was  not  fully  responsible.  His  own  frank  state- 
ments of  the  extremely  defective  condition  of  his  instruments  have  been  more 
than  once  noted  in  the  preceding  pages.  His  sextants  were  soon  out  of  order. 
The  silvering  of  their  mirrors  in  the  Arctic  winter  cracked  off,  and  their  screws 
and  joints  loosened  by  the  inequality  of  expansion.  He  did  not  consider  the 
work  done,  with  even  the  Coast  Survey  pocket  sextant,  good  work ;  and  often 
ex])ressed  the  regret  that  no  labor  or  ingenuity  of  his  could  remedy  the  defects 
caused  by  the  iniiuences  of  the  Arctic  exposures  to  whi^h  all  of  his  ai)pliances 
were  subjected.     The  dij)-circle  was  broken  in  18G4. 

The  chronometers  showed  themselves,  at  first,  to  be  good  time-keepers,  but 
the  roughness  unavoidable  in  handling  and  trans])orting  them  across  the  ice-floes 
soon  disturbed  their  rates ;  and  in  the  last  year  of  the  expedition  they  more  than 
once  ceased  to  run. 

The  compasses  were  doubtless  good ;  his  perplexity  in  regard  to  their  work 
arose,  perhaps,  chiefly  from  changes  in  the  direction  and  force  of  the  magnetic 
influences  in  regions  subject  to  sudden  and  powerful  fluctuations.  After  making 
due  allowance  for  the  error  of  taking  some  of  his  observations  in  the  vicinity  of 

451 


452 


HaWs  Astronomical  Observations. 


iron,  it  may  be  safely  admitted  that,  for  the  most  part,  the  discrepancies  which 
will  be  fonud  noted  in  the  folio R-iug  i)ages  are  to  be  credited  to  the  irregularities 
in  terrestrial  magnetism. 

Notwithstanding  many  and  frequently  recurring  difficulties,  Hall  evidently- 
lost  no  opportunities  of  securing  observations  for  determining  position  as  accu- 
rately as  i)ossible.  The  observations  which  follow  have  been  computed  from  his 
journal  entries,  principally  for  use  in  constructing  the  maps  which,  with  his  notes 
and  other  data,  supplement  his  surveying  work.  The  computations  have  not  been 
made  with  the  precision  demanded  for  observations  unafl'ected  by  such  large  con- 
stant errors;  yet  the  reduced  observations  furnish  data  for  determining  the  lati- 
tudes of  places  in  the  Arctic  Zone  but  little  known,  and,  in  some  cases,  entirely 
unknown  previously  to  Hall's  visits. 


ASTRONOMICAL   OBSERVATIONS   MADE   DURING  THE   YEARS   l«G4-'69. 
[Reduced  under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  K.  W.  D.  Bryan,  late  of  the  Polaris  Expedition  ] 


July  29,  1864. — Entrance  to  Hidson'b  Straits. 


ni.  s. 
51 

05  30 
10  30 

14 
19 
21 


47 


7 

17  30 
20 

20 
39 

18  30 


4   3 

119 

30 

16 

30 

118 

15 

20 

117 

50 

23 

117 

20 

6  17 

42 

21 

18 

30 

15 

20 

20 

5 

24  45 

25  35 

26  30 

31  30 

32  40 

33  40 


22 

10 

23 

10 

27 

40 

28 

50 

29 

40 

100  30 

20 

99  50 

40 

30 


0- 

Elevation  20  feet. 


Lat.  6P  5'. 9  X. 


O  to   right   to  Cape  Resolu- 
tion. 


Vessel     on     course    WNW. 
true,  3  knots  per  hour. 


Chrou.  slow  4''  57" 


Lat.  61°  8'  N. 
LoDK.  64°  7'  W. 


0  U)  right  to  Cape  Resolution. 


July  31,  1864.-=-HuusoN'6  Straits— Continued. 


ni.    8. 
23    30 
28 
34 
40 


43  3 

47  35 

48  50 

49  .5 


92  35 
37 
37 
34 


69    15 

68    20 

68      5 

67    5'J 

65    45 

30 

15 

04    30 

15 

0 


2Q. 

Small  sextant. 

Lat.  01°  32'.9  N. 


2Q. 

At  9"  chron.   glow    on  ship's 
chron.  S""  25°'. 


Lon;;.  66°  51'.  7  W. 


August  3, 1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


m.    s. 

21 

29 

31 

33    30 

37 


42    16 
42    39 


July  31, 1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


o 

, 

„ 

45 

37 

38 

30 

37 

35 

30 

35 

28 

3 

27 

56 

14  feet  elevation. 


Lat.  01°  31'.3  N. 


12  feet  elevation. 

Chron.  slow  on  (i.  M.  T.  l"  31' 

Long.  67°  6'.9  W. 


m. 

B. 

17 

20 

25 

30 

31 

37 

41 

30 

43 

37 
38 
39 
40 
38 
32 
30 


30 


2Q. 

Artilicial  horizon.  Large  sex- 
tant. 

Chron.  slow  on  ship's  chron. 
5''21'°;  sliip's  chruu.  fast  on 
G.  M.  T.  2'.0. 


August  5, 1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


3J 


20  feet  elevation. 


Lat.  61°  42'.C  N. 


HaWs  Astronomical  Oh'ser  vat  ions,  1864. 

Astronomical  obaervationa  made  during  the  years  1864-'69 — Continued. 


453 


August  5,  1864.— Hudson's  Straits— Continued. 


11. 

m. 

8. 

7 

7 

20 

9 

20 

10 

25 

8 

16 

12 

17 

50 

19 

10 

•JO 

20 

21 

20 

36  55 
42 
39 


29  54 
44 
34 
26 
20 


14  feet  elevation. 


Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  6">  1'.6. 


Lens.  67°  13'  "W. 


August  6.  1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


h.  m.  8. 
3  7  10 
3    10    30 


42    16 
21 


44    36 
36 


a- 

20  feet  elevation. 
Long.  67°  59'.  3  W. 

Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  6">  9». 

Lat.  61°  45'  N. 

Ship  on  course  NW.  by  W. 

3  knots  per  hour. 
3-45  changed  course  to  NE. 


August  8,  1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


h.  m.    s. 
2    37    30 


2    37    30 


38    57 


14 

30 

43  20 

24 

7 

27 

7 

25 

12 

8 

15 

5 

93    47 


20  feet  elevation. 

Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  6"  35'. 
Ship's  course  N.  10  W.,  true. 

3  knots  ]ier  hour. 
Lat.  62°  14'.3  N. 
Lena;.  69°  46'.9  W. 


0  to  left  to  iceherg;.  Iceberg 
to  left  to  Xorth  BluirC4°34'. 
North  Bhiflf  by  C.  N.  40'  E. 

Var.  57°.  9  W. 


August  9,  1864. — Hudson's  Straits. 


h.  ni.    s. 

4      7    30 

11    20 


9    10 
15 

25    40 
33 


42    17 
23 


20  feet  elevation. 
Chapel,  observer. 

Hall,  observer. 


Lat.  62°  43'.8  N. 


August  11,  1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


h.  m.  s. 

2    43  25 

44  35 

46 

51  10 

52  30 

53  30 


33  58 
36  4 
10 
32 
38 
43 


El- 

18  feet  elevation. 

Ships  steering  NW.  by  N. 


August  11. 1864.— Hudson's  Straits— Continued. 


49  45 
57  40 

4  10 

6 
12 


4  54  20 

5  0  20 
10  10 
14 


31  25 

32  25 

33  23 

40  27 

41  30 

42  35 

43  30 


41  43 
46 
47 
48 
47 


41  49 
50 
50 
49 


35  30 
25 
20 

34  45 
40 
35 
30 


20  feet  elevation.    Small  sex 
tant. 


Largo  sextant. 
Lat.  63°  6'.9  N. 


Q- 


August  14,  1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


h.  m. 

s. 

5  35 

36 

45 

38 

0 

, 

„ 

43 

43 

42 

58 

45 

17  feet  elevation. 
Lat.  60°  58'.2  N. 


August  15,  1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


h.  m.  s. 
5  34 
37 


42   7 

7  30 


£2- 

20  feet  elevation. 

Lat.  61°  32'.3  N. 


August  16,  1864.— Hudson's  Straits. 


h.  m. 

5  33 
35 
37 
43 
46 
48 


30 


£2- 

20  feet  elevation. 


Lat.  62°  14'.1  N. 


August  17,  1864.— Hudson's  Bay. 


h.  m. 
6    29 


53    25 
55  -30 


40    23 


30    55 
30    43 


12  feet  elevation. 

Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  S-"  36*. 
Lat.  62°  3'. IN. 
Long.  88°  19'  W. 


August  18, 1864.— Hudson's  Bay. 


in.  s. 

18  30 

29  20 

33  20 

34  35 


37  32 

38  18 
30 
35 


20  feet  elevation. 

Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  S"  45". 

Long.  89°  59'  W. 


454  IlalVs  Astronomical  Observations,  1864. 

Astronomical  observations  made  during  the  years  1864-'69 — Continued. 


August  18,  1864. — Hudson's  Bay— Continupd. 


m. 

8. 

47 

54 

30 

56 

40 

58 

25 

3 

4 

30 

5 

30 

6 

15 

40  30 
33 
32 
31 
30 
30 
29 
28 


Q- 


Lat.  620  8'.8N. 


August  21, 1864.— Depot  Island. 


44 
50 
54  30 

6 
10 
13 


75  38 
38  30 
42  30 
41 
35 
32 
28 


75  42 
42  30 
38 
34 
30 


30 


40  25 
42 

43  25 

48  24 

49  45 

50  50 
59  40 

1  30 

2  45 
6  50 

10  20 


60  15 
0 

59  45 

58  54 
40 
29 

56  55 
35 
23 

43  45 

43 


2  0. 

Small  sextant;  on  31',  off  32'. 


2Q. 

Large  sextant;  on  32',  off  30' 
30". 


Lat.  63°  46'.9  N. 


2Q. 


Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  9"  16'. 


Long.  89°  45'  N. 
N.  67°  W.  by  C. 
N.  66°  30'  W.  by  C. 
Var.  41°.5  W. 


August  25,  1864.— Depot  Island. 


h.  m.    8. 

5  53 

58    30 

6  0    45 
5 

9 
11     50 


6  20 

8  22 

9  45 
38  5 


40    45 
43    20 


56 

57 

55    30 

51 

46    30 

42    30 


52  49 
27 
12 

46    45 


13 
45    41 


2(2. 


Lat.  63°47'.5N. 


Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T. 


'Helen  F.' 
Monticello  . . 

Hall's 

Mean 

Long.  89°  :')8'. 
X.  82°  W.  by  C. 
N.81°'W. 
Var.  33°.9  W. 


10"  38'.5 
11  40  .2 
10  10.9 
10    49  .9 


August  26,  1864.— Depot  Island. 


h.  m. 

s. 

3  13 

25 

14 

5 

14 

23 

2Q. 


August  26,  1864.— Depot  Island — Continued. 


h.  m.    8. 
3    25 
26    30 


3    42    20 

43  19 

44  55 


61    40 
61    39 


3  38 
47 

5 
35 

81  11 
79  44 

3  41 
45 

55 

63 
63  38 

61    33    30 
33 
31    30 


O  and  ]) . 

2  0. 

O  and  5 . 

Long.  89°  19'.8  "W. 


August  27,  1864.— Depot  Island. 


h.  m.    8. 
8    39 


7  feet  elevation. 


August  30,  1864.— Kowe's  Welcome. 


h.  m.  s. 

3  10  26 

14  15 

16  45 

39  53 

42  10 

43  20 

4  14 

16  18 
IS 


35  15 

41  30 
51 
53 

58  30 

5  20 


27  32 
49 

28 

29  40 
51 
54 

31  45 
49 
54 


11 
14 

14    30 
13    30 
12 
9    30 


7  feet  elevation. 

Vessel's  course  N.,  2J  knots 

per  hour. 
Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  45*. 


Long.  87°  57'.  5  "W. 


Q- 


Lat.  64°  18'. IN. 


August  31,  1864.— Fikst  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

8.  \ 

5 

36 
39 

30 

44 

13 

47 

49 

30 

57 

30 

59 

33    31 
33 


35 
34 
33 

32    30 
31    30 


4  feet  elevation. 

LC.  +4.-)". 

Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  56".5. 


Lat.  64°  34'.  9  N. 


September  1, 1864.— First  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

8. 

3  47 

15 

50 

51 

28 

53 

5 

58  34 
51 

59  4 
10 


i^ 


I-  V  30". 
Chron.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  1""  3«.5. 


HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1864.  455 

Astronomical  observations  made  during  the  years  18G4-'69 — Continued. 


September  1,  1864.— First  Encampment— Continued. 


ni.  8. 

42  30 

46  45 

51  33 

54  20 

4 

8  40 


1 

2  57 

3  56 

4  57 

6  40 

7  37 

8  35 

9  36 
12  48 
15  18 
17  53 


66    18 
19    30 
18    30 
18    30 
14 
5 


46    30 

20 

10 

0 

45    30 

20 

10 

0 

44    22 

43  56 
26 


2Q. 


Lat.  64°  3C'.3  N. 


2(2. 

I.  c.  +  r  30". 

Chr.  slowou  G.  M.  T.  5i'8>»19=, 


Long.  87°  32'  W. 


September  3,  1864.— Second  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

o 

' 

4 

55 

55 

34 

12 

57 

25 

33 

53 

58 

35 

38 

5 

6 

27 

32 

5 

2(2. 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  Sh  8"  35'. 

O  N.  61°  "W.  l>y  C. 
Long.  87°  13'. 5  "W. 
Var.  47°.2  W. 


September  4,  1864.— Second  Encampment. 


m. 

a. 

16 

17 

18 

9 

20 

2 

21 

20 

41      3 
44 

40  18 

41  8 


2Q. 

2T3. 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  5i>  8"  43», 

Long.  87°  13'.5  W. 


September  5,  1864.— Second  Encampment. 


h.  m.    8. 
3    49      5 


2(3. 

L  C.  +  V  39". 

Long.  87°  16'.2  "W. 


September  6, 1864. — Second  Encampment. 


h.  m.  8. 

0    31  45 

36  47 

41  20 

48 

56  45 


44    48 
50    47 


o 

, 

„ 

62 

9 
10 
10 

30 

8 

30 

61 

58 

62 

17 
03 

2£2- 


2Q- 

L  C.  -  3'  30". 

Lat.  64°  50'  N. 


September  8, 1864.— Second  Encampment. 


2Q- 

L  C.  +  1'  30'. 

Chion.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  5'>9""  15' 

2e- 

2  0. 

Long.  87°  17'.5  W. 


September  9, 1864. — Third  Encampment. 


h.  m.    8. 


32 
35 

36    27 
38 


44  49 
20 

45  9 
44    55 


I.  C'.  +  1'  30". 
Lat.  64°  46'  N. 

2  Q.    N.  88°  "W.  by  C. 

m. 

2  0.    N.  87°  W.  by  C. 
Long.  87°  14'. 5  W. 
Var.  43°.2  W. 


September  10,  1864.— Third  Encampment. 


h.  m.  8. 

9    58  34 

10      0  22 

2  08 


10   9 

18 

48  31 

0  37 
41 
44 

24 
2 

7 

59  17 
16 
15 

0  36  19 
40  29 
43    34 


3    29      5 

29  35 

30  13 


3    33 
34    37 
36    37 


47 


59  18 
17 
16 


44  30 
25 
20 


43  52 
35 
17 


2Q- 

L  C.  -  22". 5. 

Chr.  alow  on  G.  M.  T.  S''  g-  29' 


2Q. 

2i2- 


2i2. 

I.  C.  -  22".5. 

Lat.  64°  46'.  6  N. 


2Q. 

I.  C.  -  22".5. 

Chr.  slowou  G.  M.  T.  b^  9-31' 


2  Q.    K".  88°.5  ^y.  by  C. 
2  (2.     N.  88°  W.  bv  C. 
2  Q_.     N.  87°.5  W.'by  C. 
Long.  87°  13'.7  W.  " 
Var.  42°.9  W. 


September  14,  1864.— Third  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

8. 

0  37 

39 

25 

42 

15 

44 

25 

45 

43 

O    ' 

„ 

56  14 

45 

14 

12 

15 

11 

45 

11 

30 

2(2. 

I.  C.  -  53". 


Lat.  64°  46'.4  N. 


456  HalVs  Astronomical  Observations,  1864. 

Astronomical  ohscrvations  viade  during  the  years  1864-69 — Continued. 


SEPTEsruEu  17,  18G4.— Third  Excami'mext. 


h.   m. 

a. 

2  38 

39 

50 

41 

50 

48 

45    45 
45    30 


2Q- 

Chr.  slo-svon  G.  M.  T.  S^  10"  27' 

Long.  87°  13'.9  W. 


September  20,  1864.— Fourth  Encampment. 


h.  ni.    8. 
3    40    27 


33    30 


Long,  assumed  87'=  16'.9  W. 
Chron.  fast  on  L  M.  T.  37"  52». 


September  28, 1864.— Fourth  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

8. 

11 

26 

43 

28 

11 

29 

53 

0   / 

„ 

43  37 

30 

43 

49 

15 

2£). 

L  C.  -  1'. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  36" 


September  29,  1864.— Fourth  Encampment. 


h.   ni.  8. 

0    22  10 

25  50 

28  42 

31  15 
34 
37 

39  37 


2  38  57 
48  12 
52    10 


0 

, 

„ 

44 

35 

15 

35 

30 

35 

»0 

35 

30 

33 

45 

32 

15 

29 

45 

35 

59 

45 

34 

49 

18 

15 

212. 
I.  C. 


Lat.  64°  46'.3  N. 


2  Q.      S.  81°  W.  by  C. 

S.  83°  "W.  by  C. 

S.  84°  W.  by  C. 
Var.  40°.4  W. 


October  1,  1864. — Fourth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

a. 

0 

' 

10  37 

32 

37 

30 

40 

45 

42 

37 

38 

44  48 
46  38 
48   5 


38 


18 
26  30 


43   1  30 


2  35  45 
37  43 
39  52 


34  45 
30 
15 


■B- 


2£). 

Sextant  out  of  order. 


2  ID. 

Lat.  64°  46'.0  N. 


2Q. 


October  3,  1864.— Fourth  Encampment. 


m. 

8. 

59 

50 

1 

38 

3 

23 

6 

55 

10 

24 

12 

5 

13 

48 

17 

10 

30 

29    45 

30 

0 

28    30 

15 

0 

27    30 


2Q. 


S.  89°  W.  by  C. 

S.  90°  W.  by  C. 
N.  89°  W.  by  C. 
Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  35" 
Var.  40°.l  W. 


October  8, 1864.— Fourth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

a. 

2  30 

23 

31 

50 

32 

35 

33 

12 

33 

54 

29  45 
35 
30 
25 
20 


2Q. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  SM^l?". 


October  9, 1864.— Fifth  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

8. 

0 

28 

10 

32 

50 

0 

, 

„ 

36 

51 

30 

48 

45 

2Q. 

Lat.  64°  46'.7  N. 


October  16,  1864.— Fifth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

8. 

2  28 

55 

30 

55 

33 

23  45 
30 
15 


2  £:}.     S.  78°  W.  by  C. 

S.  79°  W.  by  C. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  32 

Var.  44°.9  W. 


October  17, 1864.— Fifth  Encampment. 


h.  m.  8. 

0    19  15 

24 

28  45 


30    57 
56    30 
54 


2Q. 

Lat.  64°  46'  N. 


3    12    48       17    12    30     Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  32"  28». 


October  18, 1864. — Fifth  Encampment. 


h. 

ni. 

a. 

11 

40 

11 

3 

51 

21 

59 

1 

4 

4 

1 

87    52    30 
.55 
55 


2JJ. 


Chron.  fist  on  L.  U.  T.  32"  11« ; 
th.  n  louff.  83°  5'.5  W.  (not 
reliable). 


HaWs  Astronomical  Observations^  1865. 

Astronomical  observations  made  during  the  years  1864-'69 — Continued. 


457 


October  27,  1S64. — Firrn  Encampment. 


h.  m.    s. 

0         /         II 

7    37 

0 

S.  15°  E.  by  C. 

Chron.  shows  L.  M.  T.  Snn 
about  6'  high,  to  allow  for 
elevation  of  place  of  obser- 
vation. 

Var.  43°.2  W. 

November  3, 18C4. — Eifth  Encampment. 


h.    m.    s. 
11    43 


19    31 
30 


2  a. 


December  25, 1864. — Sixth  Encampment. 


h.  m.    8. 


Elevation  30  feet. 
Lat.  64°  4J'.8  N. 


April  11,  1865.— Seventh  Encampment. 


h.  m.  8. 

11    51  35 

55  23 

59 

0      3 

5  10 


2  55 

59    30 

3  1    33 


0 

, 

„ 

67 

1 
0 

30 

66 

52 
45 
43 

30 

47 

21 

46 

44 
22 

30 

2Q.     On  30',  oft' 25'. 
Refraction  great. 


Lat.  64°  43'.2  W.  (?) 


2(2-     On  39',  oft' 25'. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  26™  12', 


April  16,  1865.— Eighth  Encampment. 


h.    m.  8. 

11    25  30 

30  10 

36  10 

41  5 

45  10 


2    33    10 

35  4 

36  35 


o 

, 

„ 

70 

15 

16 

30 

17 

15 

30 

15 

53 

54 
34 
19 

2(2.     On  31' 30",  off  33'. 


Lat.  64°  55'  N. 


2  0.    On  32'  off  30'. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  27"  6'. 


April  25,  1865.— Ninth  Encampment. 


h.   m.  s. 

11    41 

46  40 

57  5 

0      6  30 


11    51 

0    12    25 


o        / 

„ 

76      3 

8 

11 

30 

5 

76    12 

45 

5 

2  Q.     On  30',  off  33'. 
Lat.  65°  1'.2  N, 

2  0- 


April  25,  1865.— Ninth  Encampment— Continued. 


m. 

H. 

8 

10 

12 

25 

16 

57 


50    19 
55    42 


20.     On  30',  off 33'.    S.  83°"W. 

byC. 
S.840W.byC. 
S.850W.  byC. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  4"°  37'. 
Var.  20°  4  W. 


May  3, 1865. — Thirteenth  Encajipment. 


h.  m.  8. 

10  16  50 

20  40 

29  40 

32  15 


11  29  45 

35  45 

44  35 

47  10 

48  50 
54  20 
57  20 

3  40 

6  45 

9  35 

12  10 

14  30 
16 


0 


2  49  47 
52  40 
57  50 


75  4 
28 

76  20 

33  30 


1 

10 

22 

22 

22 

22 

22 

20  30 

19 

15 

14 

11 

08 


64  32 

5 

64  14 


2Q. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  2"  5'. 


2Q. 


Lat.  65°  23'.3  N. 


2Ql.    N.  87°  l.V  W.  by  C. 

N.  86°  W.  bv  C. 

N.  84°  30'  W.  bv  C. 
Var.  40°.  9  W. 


May  5, 1865.— Thirteenth  Encampment. 


h.  m.    8. 
8    40 


0  diameter  above  sea  horizon. 
N.  1°  E.  by  C. 


May  6,  1865.— Thirteenth  Encampment. 


h.  m.    8. 

8    44 


O  diameter  above  sea  horizon. 
N.  3°  E.  by  C. 


May  7,  1865.— Thirteenth  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

8. 

11 

48 

34 

53 

55 

56 

30 

59 

40 

0 

2 

30 

5 

05 

3 

5 

6 

8 

26 

10 

48 

38  30 

39  30 
40 

40 
38 
35  30 


63  50 

17 

62  52 


2(2- 


2  £2-  N.  76JO  W.  bv  C. 
N.  7oio  W.  by  C. 
N.  75°  W.  by  C. 


458  HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1865. 

Astronomical  observations  made  durinri  the  years  18G4-'69 — Continued. 


Mav  8, 1865. — Thirteenth  Encampment. 


T3  on  the  horizon. 


May  12,  1865.— Thirteenth  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

o   / 

" 

8 

55 

25 

68  48 

no 

2 

49 

18 

^» 

52 

25 

48 

55 

30 

48 

2  Q.    S.  5J°  E.  by  C. 
2  Q.     N.  7'8°  30'  W.  by  C. 
20-    N-  77=  15'  W.  by  C. 
2  0.     N.  70°  15'  W.  by  C. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  4""  i 
Lat.  65°  S-i'  N. 
Var.  47°.  9  W. 


May  20,  1865. — Thirteenth  Encampment. 


m. 

8. 

56 

58 

37 

1 

20 

4 

20 

7 

15 

11 

12 

14 

14 

17 

15 

19 

30 

22 

22 

25 

17 

70  48 
21 

69  53 
53 
53 

68  4 
4 
4 

66  35 
35 
35 


2  £2-    On  32'  30",  off  30'. 

2i2- 

2Q. 

2e- 

2  0. 
2Q. 

se. 

2  0. 
2ID- 

2e- 

2  0. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  5"42M 


May  21,  1865.— Thirteenth  Encampment. 


h.    m. 
11    37 


0 

41  30 

45  30 
48 
51 

53  30 

55  30 
.77 

58  40 

0  30 

2  10 


89    15 
17 


17  30 
18 

18  30 
20 

18 

17    30 
17 
16 
15 


2  Q.    On  33',  off  ?1'. 


Lat.  65°  23'.  5  N. 


May  25,  1865.— Thirteenth  Encampment. 


h.  m.  8.  °      '  " 

5    35  30  40    47  00  '  2  Q     On  32'.  5,  off  30'. 

38  47          i  2-©-. 

40  30  47          12  0. 


5    40 

50  15 

51  22 

52  40 

53  55 


37    45 

30 

15 

0 


2  £J.   On  32',  off  31'. 


Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  6"  34» 


May  27,  1865.— Fourteenth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

8. 

° 

' 

4  23 

48 

56 

26 

20 

55 

30 

31 

5 

54 

30 

2  £2.    On  32',  off  314'. 
N.  59°  W.  by  C. 
N.  58°.5  W.'by  C. 
N.  57'\5  W.  bV  C. 
Var.  41°.  1  W."^ 


May  28,  1865.— Fourteenth  Encampment. 


h.    m.    s. 
11    48 

54    20 

59 
0      3    15 


91     53 


11    51 

55    30 
0 

4    30 


50 

49  30 
48  30 
45 


13    58 
30    30 


72 
71    45 

30 
70    30 

15 

0 

66    53 


2  £J.    On  31'  30",  off  31'. 

2  £2.    On  33',  off  30'. 
Lat.  65°  23'  X. 


2  0.    On  31' 30",  off  31'. 

The  compass  often  varies  1°, 
2°,  antl  sometimes  6°  or  8° 
in  a  few  minutes,  although 
located  in  one  spot  and  un- 
touched. 

N.  55°  W.  by  C. 

Chron.  .slow  bu  L.  M  T.  7">  53». 

Var.  58°.  3  "W. 


May  30,  1865. — Fourteenth  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

8. 

11 

38 

40 

43 

48 

30 

51 

53 

56 

58 

40 

O    ' 

„ 

92  25 

28 

29 

30 

29 

30 

26 

30 

25 

30 

2  0.    On  34',  off  30'. 


Lat.  6o°  22'. 7  K". 


May  31,  1865. — Fifteenth  Encampment. 


h.  m.  8.  '     °      ' 
4      1  61    30 

2  10  15 

3  25  0 

4  r/7       60    45 

5  57  30 

7  13  ,  15 

8  20  I  0 


2Q. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  9""  22'. 


June  1,  186."). — Fikteentii  Excampmf.nt. 


May  26,  1865.— Fourteenth  Encampment. 


h.  m.    8. 
4    57 


48    51    30 


l.t 


Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  7"'  38'. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

11 

42 

25 

47 

50 

40 

20 

52 

53 

40 

55 

30 

0 

, 

„ 

93 

6 
10 
10 

9 

8 

30 

6 

30 

I  0.    On  34',  off  30'. 


Lat.  65°  19'.3  N. 


HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  ISO 5 


459 


Anfroiiomical  ob'frrratioiis  made  durltxj  the  yca:-s  18(J4-'G9 — Continued. 


June  1,  1865.— Fifteenth  Encampment— Continued. 


m. 

a. 

15 

4U 

17 

18 

23 

26 

17 

27 

37 

28 

56 

U 

35 

20 

36 

47 

70    30 

15 

0 

68    30 

15 

0 

67      0 

66    45 


2  i3.    On  31'  30",  ofif  30'  r'O". 
Chiou.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  lO"- 1». 


June  5,  1865. — Sixteenth  Encampment. 


b.  m.  s. 

11  37  35 

41  30 

47  50 

4U  10 
52 

55  05 


94  12 
11 

10 
9 


11  44 

47 


4  55  10 

56  20 

57  23 


0  27 

1  40 
4  25 


94   6 
6 


50  26 

12 

49  58 


49  15 
0 

48  26 


2  Q.  On  33'  30",  off  30'. 


Lat.  65°  16'.2  N. 


June  10,  1865.— Between  Nineteenth  and  Twentieth 
Encampments. 


h.    m.    8. 

11    34 
37    30 
1  41    40 

I  45 


2Q. 


2  (2.    On  33',  ofif  30'. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  15"  17', 


2  £2.    On  31'  30",  off  31'. 


June  6,  1865.— Seventeenth  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

8. 

D 

14 

17 

15 

56 

17 

43 

11 

59 

15 

0 

2 

30 

3 

55 

5 

10 

94      1 

93    57 

56 

53 


2Q-    On  34',  off  30'. 
Long,  assumed  .5''  48"'. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  17"  30» 


2  Q_.    On  34',  off  30'. 


Lat.  65°  22'. 8  N. 


i  June  7, 1865 


-Between  Seventeenth  and  Eighteenth 
Encampments. 


h.  in. 

9    55 

57 
58 


20 


43  58    30 

44  5 

9    15 


11  34 
38 
45 
50 


8    30 
7     30 


Elevation  5  feet. 
L  C.  -7".5. 


ID- 
Elevation  5  feet. 
I.  C.  -7".5. 

Made    on    land,    which    was 
T-eaehcd  at  lOii  55"". 


11    36    10 
40 


ID- 
Elevation  5  feet. 
I.  C.  -  3'. 

Near  a  .sujall  island,  from  1.^  to 
2  miles  from  mainland. 

ID- 
Elevation  5  feet. 
Lat.  65°  50'.5  N. 


June  13, 1865. — Between  Twentieth  and  Twenty-first 
Encampments. 


h.    ni. 
11     32 


35 

36    30 
39 
41 
43    50 


o   / 

„ 

46  50 

30 

49 

15 

49 

48 

55 

48 

30 

40 

30 

ID- 
Elevation  5  feet. 


Lat.  66=  11'.7  ]Sr. 


June  14,  1865.— Twenty-fikst  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

s. 

11  24 

26 

26 

29 

30 

23 

31 

30 

33 

30 

35 

10 

37 

12 

38 

30 

41 

15 

42 

30 

44 

30 

45 

45 

4  46 

50 

48 

8 

49 

23 

50 

26 

53 

10 

55 

50 

93  38  30? 
36 
37 
38 
39 
39 
37 
36 

35  30 

36  ? 
33 

31 
30 


50  45 
30 
15 


2  £2.    On  33'  30",  off  30'. 
Small  sextant. 


Sextant  out  of  order. 


Lat.  66°  14'.7  N. 


2  ID- 
Large  sextant. 


2Q.  On  34',  off  30'.  Small  ^ext't, 
2e■ 
20. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  29™  25». 


June  21, 1865. — Hurd's  Channel. 


10 


h.  m.  s. 

9  58  40 

1  45 

3  40 
12 

13  30 

15  15 


11  39 

41  25 

43  50 

46  15 
50 

51  50 


89  46 

90  2 
12 
58 

91  5 


93  57 
56 
52 
45 
43 


2Q.  On  34',  off  30'. 


2ID. 


Lat.  66°  10'  N. 


460 


HalVs  Astronomical  Ohserratioiis,  1865. 


Astronomical  observaliotis  made  during  ilic  ijcars  1864-'69 — Coutinued. 


June  25,  1865.— Twenty-first  Excajipment. 


h. 

ni. 

8. 

2 

46 

20 

47 

42 

49 

8 

50 

22 

57 

2 

58 

27 

3 

1 

0 

2 

25 

70 

69  45 
30 
15 

68 

67  45 
15 
0 


;  Q.    On  32',  off  30'  30" 
N.69°W.byC. 

K.  68°  W.  by  C. 
N.  06°  TV.  by  C. 


>,^.  65°  W.  bv  C. 
Chr.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  54°>  50».5. 


Var.  44°.  5  W. 


June  29,  1865. — Tvventy-fihst  Excajipment. 


m. 

s. 

1 

25 

4 

40 

6 

30 

8 

9 

30 

11 

12 

30 

13 

30 

lb 

18 

41 

20 

42 

57 

44 

7 

50 

32 

52 

15 

53 

20 

o 

, 

„ 

93 

28 
28 

28 

30 

30 

2.') 

26 

26 

25 

23 

30 

70 

21 
0 

69 

47 

68 

35 

16 

5 

30 

2  £2.     On  34',  off  29'. 
Observation  indifferent;   sex- 
tant out  of  order. 


Lat.  60°  1.V.5  N. 


2  12.     On  34' 30",  off  29'. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  57"'  28». 


July  3,  1865. — Twexty-skcoxd  Encampment. 


8  15 

11  10 

13  30 

15  30 
18 


92    45 
46 


46  30 

47  30 
47  30 
47  30 
46  30 
45 


45  45  '  69  30 
48  30  i  69  30 
51    22       69    30 


2(2-     On  34' 30",  off  28'. 
A  different  chronometer  from 
that  pieviously  used. 


July  13, 1865.— Twenty-second  Encasipment- Cont'd. 


h. 

m. 

s. 

11 

52 

30 

59 

10 

0 

2 

45 

6 

30 

8 

50 

3 

23 

12 

24 

40 

26 

10 

O    " 

, 

90  21 

30 

23 

45 

26 

25 

24 

70  30 

15 

0 

2r2.     On  32'. 30,  off  30' 30" 


2(2.    On32'.30,  off30'. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  l""  14". 


July  18,  1865.— Twenty-second  Encampment. 


h.  m.  s. 

10    34  30 

36  40 

I  38  50 


Lat.  66°  19'  N. 


2Q.     On  34' 30",  off  28'. 

2e- 

2  0. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  .54"'  51'. 

These  lime  observations  made 
J  of  a  mile  S.  75°  E.  from 
where  noon  observations 
were  made. 


July  13,  1865. — Twenty-second  Encamp.ment. 


m. 

fl. 

57 

30 

0 

20 

4 

30 

( 

23 

10 

10 

50 

11 

43 

12 

35 

14 

o 

, 

„ 

90 

24 

24 

30 

25 

25 

24 

30 

24 

24 

23 

30 

22 

2i2.    On  33',  off  30' 


Lat.«6°19'.6N. 


10    42    25 

43  55 

44  47 


10  48 
50  50 
53  50 
56 
57  40 


2  20 
4 


7  35 

9   5 

10  10 


13  30 

16  50 

19  25 

22  15 
24 


30 

35    20 
40    25 


37  52 

39  15 

40  38 
42 


73  43 
28 
11 


85  7 
15 
19 


50    53    30 
52 

51  15 
49  15 
49 


2D.    On  32' 30",  off  30' 30" 


2Q. 


Clearest  limbs  0  and  5  . 


Long.  85°  29'  W. 


70    10 
3 
69    49    45 


1    45 

6    30 

10    30 


2:^. 


2Q. 


50    42 
40 


Xearest  limbs  0  and  5 . 


39  45 
37  15 
36    15 


33    30  '  Nearest  limbs  0  and  5  . 
31     15 
29    30  1 


66  15 
0 

65  45 
30 
15 


2  Q  meridian  altitude. 
Lat.  66°  19'.9]Sr. 


2Q. 


July  23,  1865. — Twenty-second  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

s. 

3  50 

47 

52 

10 

53 

28 

62 

61     45 
61     30 


2  n.     On  32'  30",  off  30'  30". 
Cliion.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  3-"  10 


HalVs  Astronomical  Observations,  1865. 


461 


Astronomical  observations  made  during  the  years  l864-'69 — Continued. 


July  28,  1865.— Twexty-secokd  Encampment. 


h.  m.  s. 
3  20 

21  27 

22  o5 


3  28  45 
32  8 
34  55 


3  39  48 

41  25 

42  34 


3  45  53 

48  40 
51  35 


3  54  51 

57  30 

58  54 

4  0  10 


4  51  40 
5G  36 

5  1  40 


6  45 

9  15 

11  35 


14   5 
17 
19  55 


65  15 

0 

64  45 


7  30 

8  15 


61  45 
30 
15 


69  13  30 

13  45 

14  45 


59 

58  30 

15 

0 


2Q.  On  32' 30",  off30':0". 
Chion.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  4'"  21» 


Nearest  limbs  0  and  D  . 


69 

36 

39 

45 

40 

45 

69 

42 

30 

43 

45 

44 

15 

69 

45 

46 

15 

46 

45 

2Q. 


Nearest  limbs  0  and  D  . 


2  0. 


Nearest  limbs  0  and  J) . 


Nearest  limbs  ©  and  I) . 


Nearest  limbs  0  and  5  . 


August  2,  1865. — Twenty-second  Encampme.nt. 


m. 

8. 

8 

9 

30 

11 

12 

30 

14 

18 

30 

20 

21 

30 

23 

24 

30 

64    45 

30 

15 

0 

63    45 


63 

62    45 

30 

15 

0 


2  Q.    On  32'  30",  off' 30'  30". 
Cbron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  5"-  28'. 


2(2.    On  32' 30",  off"  31' 30". 
Cbron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  5-"  12». 
Bad  sextant. 


August  3,  1865.— Twenty-second  Encampment. 


m.  s. 

12  17 

13  40 
15  12 

19  35 

21  5 

22  33 

20  55 


28  32 


63  30 
15 

0 
62  15 

0 
61  45 

0 


2  Q.    On  .32'  30",  off"  30'  30". 
Cliron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  5"  42 


2  0. 


August  5, 1865.— Twenty-second  Encampment. 


11     51    35 

56    30 

0      0     10 


68 
68 
68 


80     39  (?) 
37 
37 


2  0.    Ind.  cor.  1'. 

2e- 

2Q. 

Chron.  slow  on  I>.  M.  T.  5"'  50*. 


2Q. 

No  ind.  cor.  Riven.  IT.  S.  C.  S. 
sextant  very  miicb  out  of 
order  ;  had  index  cor.  of  30" 
on  Auji.  2. 

Lat.  60°  18'.3.  N. 


August  8, 1865.— Twenty-third  Encampment. 


h.  m 
11  4-: 


30 
46  30 
50 

53  35 
57  35 


0   2 


35 
5  50 
10  43 
14  40 
17  30 
20   8 


39  12  30 

14  45 

15  45 
16 

10  30 

17  15 

10  45 

15 

14 

13 

11 


£2- 

Sea  horizon.  Eye,  SJ  feet. 

Long.  5'>  43'°  20'  W.  by  D.  R. 
Lat.  66°  31'.3  N. 


August  15,  1865.— Twenty-third  Encampment. 


h.  m.  s. 

3  .59  10 

4  1  20 
3  8 


24      6 
23    53 

44 


Sea  horizon. 

Dip  — 2'. 

Cbron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  6" 


August  20,  18G5.— Twenty-third  Encajipment. 


h. 

m. 

8. 

3 

38 

45 

39 

55 

40 

45 

41 

47 

42 

40 

44 

25 

45 

20 

3 

52 

30 

53 

30 

54 

25 

24    10 

5 

0 

23    55 

50 

40 

35 


23 

22    55 
50 


(2- 

Sea  horizon. 

Height  of  eye,  9  feet. 

Cbion.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  S"'  10', 


Height  of  eye,  5  feet. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  7" 


August  24,  1865.- Twenty-third  Encampment. 


h.  m.  s. 

3    53  10 

54  15 

55  10 


21  30 
25 
20 


20  30 
20 
15 


ID- 

Horizon  3  miles  off. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  8'" 


Horizon  3  miles  off. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  8" 


462  HalPs  AstronomkaJ  Observations,  1866. 

Astronomical  ohscrrafiovs  made  ditr'uu/  the  yearn  18G4-'69 — Continued. 


1 

AUOUST  25,  1865.— TWENTY-THIKD  ENCAMPMENT.             | 

February  7, 

1866 

— Twenty-eighth  Encampm't— Cont'd. 

h.  m.    s.        °      '      " 
11    52          I     33    55 
54    53              55    30 
57      7              55 
0      0    30              54    30 

1                       i 

Sea  honzon. 

Heifcht  of  eye,  10  feet. 

Lat.  66°  28'.9  N. 

h.  m.    8. 

0      8 
16 
21 

24    50 
28    50 

0 

16 

16 
13 

8 
4 
0 

30 

30 
30 

1 

0  S.  67°  W.  by  C. 
O  S.  71°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  72°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  73°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  73?,°  W.  by  C. 
Var.  65°  W. 
Ther. —35°. 
Lat.  66°  30'.  5  N. 

August 27, 1865.— Twextyfouuth  Encampment. 

h.  m.    8.        °      '      " 
0    10    20       33      5    30 

12    45                        3    45 

Sea  borizou. 
Hei{:htof  eye,  5  feet. 
Lat  6(P  29' .3  ^^. 

Sea  horizon. 

Land  behind  it,  and  distant  ^ 

mile. 
Height  of  eve,  5  fef^t. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  8"  24». 

March  28,  1866.- 

-Twenty-ninth  Encampment. 

h.    m.    s. 
11     32 

39 

44 

50 

o 
52 

41 
43 
42 
40 

30 
30 
30 
30 

2  0.     On  32',  off  32'. 
Large  sextant. 

Lat.  66°  30'.2  N. 

2  0.     On  37',  off  26'. 

0  S.  581°  y^.  by  C. 

0  S.  60i°  W.  by  C. 

0  S.  63°  TV.  by  C. 
Lat.  66°  30'.7  N. 

2  0.     On  39',  off  26'. 

0  X.  70°  W.  bv  C. 

0  3s^.  69°  W.  bv  C. 

0  N.  68°  W.  by  C. 
Var.  62°.  8  "VY. 
Cliron.  slow  26""  45». 
Eggert  chronometer  slow  on 

G.  M.  T.  1''  10-"  46». 

3    13    15 
22    20 

24 
23     15 

11    35    45 

42 
48    30 

52 

48 

48 
46 

30 
30 

1 

August  28,  1805.- Twenty-fouuth  Encampment. 

2    33    10 

37    10 
41    10 

39 

38 

11 

36 
0 

h.    m.    8. 
11    20 
24    40 

O          1           II 

32    51 

50    15 

Sea  horizon. 
Elevation  of  eye,  5  feet. 
Chron.  bavins  .stojiped  is  taken 

as  47°>  44*  slow  on  L.  M.  T. 
Lat.  0G°  28'.  G  X. 

Aprh 

.  3,  1866.- 

-Twenty-ninth  Encampment. 

October  13, 1865. — Twenty'-sixth  Encampment. 

h.  m.    8. 

2    51    48 

53    20 

i^         54    50 

0 

40 
39 

45 
30 

i.  C'.  -  15". 
"Ward's  chron.  slow 

onL.  M.T    29"' 

Long,  assumed  —  S""  47™  44' 
W..slowonG.  M.  T.  6    16    44 
Eggert's  chron.  fast 

on  W 5     2     35 

h.    m.    s. 
11    52 
56 
0      1 

30    35    30 
34    30 
31    30 

2  0.     On  33',  off  31'. 
Lat.  66°  31'.4  X. 

Octobeu  14,  180."..— Twenty-sixth  Encampment. 

E.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  1    14      9 

March28 1    10    46 

May  24 1    42    32 

Loss  per  day 33».44 

h.  III.    8. 

1    41      7 
43    35 
46    15 

o       /       // 
24    15 
0 
23    45 

2  0.     On  32' l.V',  off  31' 45". 
Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  1™  53». 

2  0.     On  32'  1.-)".  off  31'  4.".". 
Chron.  fast  on  L.  :M.  T.  2"'  14'. 

Ap 

tIL4, 

i86e 

.—Thirtieth  Enca.mp.ment. 

i  h.    m.    8. 
11    27     53 
31    23 
34     10 
39    10 
42    15 

o 
58 

1 

2 
3 
2 
0 

30 
45 

I.T'.  -  15". 
Lat.  66°  32'.9  N. 

!.%-,... 

Chron.  slow  on  O.  il.T.  6''  H"-  5'. 
Long.  86°  50'  AV. 
0's  true  az.,  X.  126°  3'.5  W. 
r.)'s  az.  bv  C,  N.  51°  30'  AV. 
Var.  74°  33'.5.                                 j 
Evidently  local  attraction. 

1    50    17 
.52 
55    13 

23    20 

10 

22    50 

February  7, 1866.— Twenty-eighth  Encampment. 

2    47    45 
50    45 

52  20 

53  55 
55    25 

41 
40 

15 
45 
30 

15 

0 

h.   m.    8. 

11    36    30 
41     13 
45    40 
50    30 
56    30 

o         /          /' 

16 

5 
10 

13    30 
16 

2  0.     On  32'  30'-,  off  31'  30." 
0S.OU°  \V.  bvC. 
0  S.  04°  W.  Ijy  C. 
0S.65°  AY.  bVC. 
0  S.  65°  (?)  W.  by  C. 

HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1866. 


463 


Astronomical  ohxervations  made  Ouring  the  yearn  18()4-T)9 — Continued. 


Al'HH,  6,  1803.— Thiuty-fhist  Encamfmext. 

April  12,  1866.— Twexty-third  Encampment— Cont'd. 

h.    m.    B. 
11    54 

57    20 
0      1 
5 

O          /           " 

50    22 
22    30 
23 

2  £;.    On  36',  off  28'. 
Lat.  66°  40'  N. 

h. 
3 

m.    8. 
37    35 
39 
40    27 

O        '         // 

42 

41    45 
30 

2  0. 

Long.  87°  30'  W. 

0'.s  true  az.  N.  119°  16'  20"  W. 

C-)«  az.  by  C.  N.  50°  30'  W. 

Var.  68°  46'.3  W. 

AruiL  7,  1866.— Thikty-fikst  Encampment. 

April  16, 1866.— Thirty-fourth  Encampment. 

2Q. 

I.  C.  -  30". 

Chr.  .slow  on  G.  M.  T.  S^  52°- 10^ 

Long.  87°  4'. 7  AV. 

0's  true  az.  K  129°  13'  W. 

0'a  az.  by  C.  71°  W. 

Var.  58°  13'  W. 

h.  m.    8. 
3      1 

2    38 
4     17 

0         /           (/ 

45 

44    45 
30 

h. 
11 

0 

m.    8. 
56    30 
59    30 
3 

6    30 
9    30 

65    54    30 
53 

51     30 
50 
49 

1 

i.^;-4'. 

Lat.  67°  4'.2  N. 

i.%.  - 15".                1 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  5''  55"  28". 
Long.  87°  41'.5  TV. 
0  by  C.  N.  51°  W. 
Var.  73°  34'  W. 

1 

3 

12  10 

13  45 
15    15 

48    30 
15 
0 

-  ■      —I 
Apkil  8,  1866.— Thirty-second  Encampjiext. 

h.    m.    8. 
11    53 
56 

58    30 
0      1    30 
4    12 
8 
9 

10  30 

11  45 
14    10 

O          /            (' 

60    40 
41 
42 
43 
43 

43    30 
43 
41 
40 
38 

2Q. 

I.  C.  -  4'. 

Lat.  66°  44'.9  N. 

0  S.  86°  W.  by  C. 

The  last  six  o'bservationa  not 
good,  the  lioiizon-glasa  be- 
coming loose. 

Lat.  place  of  obs.,  66°  45'  N. 

Difl.  of  lat.  of  Enc't,  1'.8. 

Lat.  Enc't,  66°  46'.8. 

2Q- 

I.  0.  -  22". 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  S^  52""  33'. 
Long.  87°  1G'.7  ^Y . 
0's  true  az.  N.  130°  24'  W. 
0's  az.  by  C.  N.  76°  30'  W. 
Var.  56°  54'  W. 

April  20,  1866. — Thirty-fifth  Encampment. 

h. 
11 

0 

m.    8. 
43 

46    20 
51     50 
57    40 

2 

5 

8      8 
11    45 
15    20 

o      /       // 
68    13 

16 

20 

21 

21 

19 

18 

15 

11    30 

l%-4'. 

Lat.  67°  13'.9  N. 

2  0. 

I.  C.  -  1,5". 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  o>'  51™  50". 

0  by  C.  N.  46°  W. 

Long.  87°  31'  W. 

Var.  76°  38'  W. 

2    44    30 
46    17 
48 

48 

47    45 
30 

3 

12  10 

13  45 
15    30 
20 

21    35 
23    10 

51    15 

0 

50    45 

0 

49    45 

30 

April  10,  1866.— Thirty-second  Encampment. 

h.   in.    8. 

0          '           II 

62      4 

2  0. 

Lat.  66°  47'  N. 

1 

Apeil  22,  1866.— Thirty-sixth  Encampment. 

h. 

11 

0 

m.    8. 
48 

52     10 

54    50 

57    10 

59    10 

1    45 

4    45 

7    50 

10 

o       /       // 
69    14    30 

16 

16    30 

17 

17 

16 

15 

14     30 

12 

2  0. 

Lat.  67°  24'.  5  X. 

1 

20.                                                  j 
Chr.  .slow on  G.  M.  T.  5''  52'"37'.l 
Long.  87°  40'.7  W.                        1 
0  by  C.  N.  39°  W. 
Var!  84°  20'  W. 

1 

April  12,  1866.— Thirty-thikd  Encampment. 

h.    m.    8. 
11    4!)    40 
53    30 
56 

.58    30 
0      1 
4 
7 

O          /           II 

63    11    30 
12 

12    30 
12    90 
12 

11    30 
10 

2  0. 

Lat.  66°  56'.5  N. 

2  0. 

Chron.  slowonG.  M.T.  5'' 54°' 8'. 

Long.  87°  30'.  5  W. 

i 

1     3 

I 

1 
1 

15  20 

16  55 
18    25 
20 

51     45 

30 

15 

0 

3    27    10 
28    40 
30    10 

43    45 
30 
15 

464  HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1866. 

Astronomical  observations  made  dariug  the  years  18G4-'G9 — Continued. 


Apkil  2G,  isec— Thirty-sevexth  Excampjiest. 

May  10,  1866.- 

-Forty-sixth  Encampment. 

h.   m. 

R. 

o 

/       /, 

h. 

m.    s. 

o       / 

„ 

11     51 

70 

50 

2Q     On  30',  off  34'. 

11 

55      8 

83    31 

-'0- 

55 

50    30 

Very  cloudy. 

57    35 

31 

20 

I.e.  +2'. 

58 

30 

51 

0 

31 

Lat.  67°  8'.6  N. 

0      3 

40 

47    30 

1    40 

30 

7 

30 

48    30 

Lat.  67°  36'.4  iS'. 

4 

29 

12 

42 

May  20,  1866.— 

Forty-seventh  Encampment. 

1 

April  20,  1860.— Thirty-seventh  Encaiipmext. 

h. 

m.    s. 

o       / 

/, 

1 

h.   m. 

s. 

0 

'       " 

11 

49    35 

85    30 

2  0. 

11    53 

20 

VI 

27 

2£)_. 

53     17 

31 

LC.  h2'. 

59 

10 

27    30 

I.  C.  +1'45". 

58    35 

32 

30 

0      3 

26 

Lat.  07°  36'.9  X. 

0 

2 

33 

8 

24    30 

5    10 

33 

Lat.  06°  59'.  9  >f. 

12 

20 

21 

i.  C'.  -  30". 

9    15 

30 

3. 

11    55 
0      2 

40 

71 

30 
30 

May  24,  1866 

.—Fiftieth  Encampment. 

27 

Lat  67°  36'  8  K 

h. 

m.    s. 

0          ' 

4    17 

50 

43 

15 

IQ. 

4 

15    45 
19 

57    16 
56    30 

30 

2  0. 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  5''  49" 

!.">' 

20 
22 
23 

3o 
20 

42 

45 
30 
15 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  5''  54-"  10». 

Long.  87°  7'.7  \V. 

0  bv  C.  N.  27°  45'  W. 

Var".  79°  15'  W. 

21     30 

24 

26    30 

11 

55    41 

11 

30 
30 

Long.  80°  50'  W. 
0  bv  C.  N.  41°  W. 
Var!  62°  W. 

May  30,  1866. 

— FiiTrY-FiRST  Encampment. 

Mat  4, 

1866. — ^Fortieth  Encampment. 

h. 

ni.    s. 

O          ' 

„ 

h.  ni. 

s. 

0 

/      // 

11 

40    20 

90 

2  0. 

0    48 

73 

28    15 

2  0. 

46    20 

3 

LC.+2'. 

50 

?0 

18 

I.  0.  -  52". 

50    15 

5 

Lat.  66°  30'.3  N. 

SI 

35 

14    15 

Lat.  67°  59'.  9  2f. 

0 

54 

57    45 
3    20 

6 
5 

30 

4    18 

40 

44 

45 

2  0. 

6    40 

89    59 

20 
21 

20 

30 
15 

I.  C.  -  45". 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  G"  8°>  25». 

Long.  88°  18'.7  W. 

11 

52 

91    10 

2  0. 

1 

U 

0    20 

10 

30 

L  C.  +  2'. 

Mat  15,  1866.— FoETY-BLXTH  Encampment. 

May  31,  1866. 

— Fiftt-fiest  Encampment. 

h.    ni. 

s. 

o 

/       II 

h. 

ni.    8. 

o      / 

„ 

11    45 

10 

82 

56 

2  0. 

4 

20    15 

58     57 

L^.  25". 

51 

10 

83 

2 

L  C.  +  2'. 

23    10 

25 

.54 

35 

3 

Cloudy. 

25      7 

2 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  oi^  48" 

10". 

.57 

3 

27     13 

57    38 

Long.  86°  34'.  5  W. 

59 

40 

3 

30    25 

0 

0  by  C.  N.  40°  W. 

0      4 

3 

Var.  01°  42'  "\V. 

7 

30 

2 

Lat.  67°  8'.  3  N. 

10 
14 

45 
20 

82 

0 
56    30 

2  0. 

June  3, 1866.— 

Mouth  of  Gedtnell  Eiver. 

4    40 

49 

20 

42 

30 

48 

50 

I.  C.  +  2'. 

h. 

HI.     s. 

O           ' 

" 

45 

30 

17 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  :M.  T.  :,'>'  49"'  37'. 
QbvC.  N.  29°  AV. 
Long.  87°41'.7  Vs  . 
Var.  70°  38'  W. 

11 
0 

43    30 
48    20 
52    25 
58    30 
1    40 

91     14 
15 

18 
21 
22 

2  0.    On  27',  off  30'  30". 
Lat.  60°  22'. 8  X. 

HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1866. 

Astronomical  observations  made  during  the  year's  1864-'69 — Continued. 


465 


June  3 

,  1866.— Mouth  of  Gkinnell  Eivkr— Continued. 

June  10, 1866— Eifti: 

-SECOND  Encampment— Continued. 

h.  m. 

s. 

O          /          II 

h. 

m. 

8. 

0 

, 

„ 

0     4 

91    22 

4 

34 

57 

61 

15 

2rrj.    ©N.37°W.bvC. 

8 

30 

20    30 

86 

15 

0 

0  N.  36°  W.  bv  e. 

n 

30 

20 

37 

35 

60 

45 

©  N.  35°  W.  by  C. 

14 
16 

20 
50 

17 
16 

4 

43 
44 

8 
40 

59 

38 
20 

2  ©.    Small  sextant. 
©  N.  34  W.  bv  e. 

JtJNE 

9,  1866.— PiFTT-SECOND  ENCAMrMENT. 

45 

38 

10 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.,  the 

mcanof  3observat'ns,  14"  56". 

h.   m. 

s. 

o       /       /; 

a    54 
57 

57 
35 

68    16 
67    46 

I.e. +  30". 

59 

13 

28 

Lat.  used  66°  29'  N. 

Juke  13.  1866.- 

-Fifty-second  Encampment. 

Cbr.  slow  oil  G.  M.  T.  5''  32"»  31». 

Loiiii'.  86°  21'."  W. 

Hall  thinks  long,  too  great, 

and  ascribes  it  to  Eggert's 

h. 

m. 

s. 

o 

' 

" 

chron.  not  keeping  its  rate. 

11 

57 

93 

2 

45 

2  0. 

O's  true  az.  N.  112°  10'  W. 

0 

3 

50 

5 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  A.  T.  4""  57». 

0byC.  N.  45°30'W. 

8 

4 

Long,  used  5''  44'"  4"  W. 

Var.  66°  40'  W. 

14 

15 

2 

30 

2Q. 

19 

92 

59 

Lat.  66°  26'.7  N. 

4      6 

20 

66      9 

0 

0 

93 

8 

8 

14 

65    51 

LU.  +  30". 

10 

8 

LC.-5'. 

10 

10 

24 

Chr.  slow  on  G.  M.  T.  .O'-  32™  3K 
Long.  86°  22'  15"  W. 

13 

20 

20 

92 

4 

57 

Lat.  66°  28'.  1  N. 

2©. 

4 

19 

50 

62 

45 

Junk 

10,  1866. — 'FiFTY-SECOXi)  Encampment. 

21 

10 

30 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  5'-  12". 

22 

30 

15 

li.    111. 
11    29 

31 
34 

o          /         // 

35 
10 

91     28 

35    30 
43 

2£).    I.e. +30". 
0  S.  51i°W.  byC. 
0  S.  52°  W.  by  e. 
0  S.  5210  W.  bv  C. 

4 

23 
24 
25 

12 

10 

5 

62 
61 

11 
0 

48 

30 

2Q. 

LC.-5'. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  5™  10". 

48 

43 

92    14    30 

0  S.  58°  W.  by  e. 
O  S.  60°  W.  by  e. 

54 

53 

24 

0      1 

40 

33 

O  S.  6U°  W.  by  e. 

JU?CKl.5.  18( 

!6._Fim 

-THirtD  =  FlFTY-FIEST  ENCAMPMENT.  1 

6 

40 

35 

O  S.  63l°  W.  bv  C. 

11 
16 

10 

40 

36 
36    30 

O  S.  65°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  67°  W.  b'v  C. 

20 

47 

35 

©  S.  68°  W.  by  C. 

h. 

m. 

s. 

o 

' 

" 

26 

17 

31    30 

0  s.  69°  w.  bv  e. 

11 

54 

45 

93 

10 

2  0.     L  C.-4'45". 

Z*l 

7 

25    30 

0S.  70i°  w.iiye. 

©  S.  59°  W.  bv  C. 

36 

47 

18 

0  S.  73i°  W.  bv  e. 

59 

12 

30 

0  S.  61°  W.  by  C. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  A.  T.  W^  ij'. 

0 

3 

30 

14 

0  S.  62°  W  bV  C. 

Long,  used  5''  44"  4»  AV. 

5 

55 

93 

15 

©  S.  62°  W.  by  C. 

Lat.  66°  28'. 9  N. 

8 
10 

15 

50 

15 
15 

©  S.  63°  W.  by  C. 

12 

10 

14 

©  S.  64°  W.  bv  C. 

11    45 

40 

92    12    30 

2(3.    OS.  57°W.  bvC. 
0  S.  59°  W.  by  C. 

13 

50 

13 

30 

0  S.  65°  W.  by  C. 

52 

20 

24 

18 

30 

11 

30 

0  S.  67°  W.  by  C. 

58 

0      4 

9 

14 

17 
10 

20 

30    30 
37 
40 
40    30 

0  S.  60°  W.  by  C. 
©  S.  62°  W.  bv  C. 
O  S.  64°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  66°  W.  by  C. 

20 
21 

50 
45 

9 

7 

30 

'0  S.  68°  W.  bv  C. 

Chron.  fast  on'  L.  A.  T.  7»  13". 

Lat.  66°  29'.S  N. 

18 
23 

40 
15 

40    30 
37    30 

©  S.  67.^°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  68°  W.  by  C. 

29 

55 

31 

0  S.  69|°  "W.  by  C. 

7 

37 

20 

68 

37 

2  0- 

35 

35 

24 

0  S.  71°  W.  by  C. 

42 

22 

67 

40 

I.O._4'45".  ©N.50°W.byC. 

54 

8  . 

0  S.  76°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  66°  27'.  3  N. 

2  Q.     0  N.  40°  W.  by  C. 

43 
45 

50 

24 
10 

30 

i 
2  0. 

4    27 

15 

62    45 

7 

51 

66 

40 

28 

oO 

30 

52 

3 

65 

52 

30 

1.0. -4' 45". 

29 

47 

15 

0N.39°"W".byC. 
Var.  65°.4  W. 

53 

14 

38 

30 

0  N.  46°  W.  by  C. 
Var.  62°.3  W. 

S.  Ex,  27- 


-.30 


466  HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1866. 

Astronomical  observations  viade  during  the  years  1864-'69 — Continued . 


June  16,  18G6.— Xeae  Beacon  Hill. 


June  19,  1866. — Teekeeea. 


h.  m. 

3    25 

38 

41 

45 

46 

48 

50 

52 

53 

54 

56 

58 

59 

4 

1 

2 

3 

5 


93 


9    30 
13 
13 

14    30 
16    30 
14    30? 
16    30 
16    30 
16    30 
16 
18 
15 
14 
14 
15 
15 

14    30 
13    30 

9 


2  0. 

I.  0.  -  4'  45". 

Clir.  fast  ou  L.  A.  T.  3''  51"  42» 

Effjrert's  chron. 


Lat.  66°  30'.8  N. 


0.    On  36' 30",  off  27 


June  16,  1866.— Top  of  Beacon  Hill. 


L.  ni.  s. 

3  35  20 

36  40 

37  50 


3  43  50 

45  3 

46  7 


4  35  23 

36  32 

37  45 


4  42 
44 
45 


4  54  30 


.57  20 
59  53 


3  45 


C  35 
9 


73  10 

72  58 

44 


71  40 
28 
16 


C2   3 
61  48 
35  30 


60  35 
21 
10 


56  30 


2£D. 

I.  C.  -  3'  30". 
"Wai-d'-s  chron. 

E"u('it  3''  38""  12«  fast  on 
Ward's  chron. 


2Q. 

I.  C.  -  3'  30". 


2Q- 

I.  C.  -  3'  30" 


2Q- 
l.C. 


2  Q.  I.  C.  -  3'  30". 

0  X.  34°  W.  by  C. 
2-©-  •  0  N-  33J°  W.  by  O. 
2  0.  0  N.  33°  W.  by  C. 


2e. 

2e- 

2  0. 


I.  C.  -  3'  30". 
0  N.  32*=  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  32°  W.  by  C. 
0  K.  31°  W.  by  C. 
Var.  64°.6  W. 


h.  m.  s. 

11  49  20 

52  10 

53  40 

55  30 

56  45 
58  30 

0  30 

3 

4  15 

6  30 

7  40 
10 

11  10 

12  45 


0 


4  45  20 

47  20 

48  35 


33 
35 
34 

34  30 
35 

35  30 
35 

35 

35 

34  30 

34 

C»3 

31 

30 


4  53  40 

54  33 

55  35 


6  40 
9  18 


57   3 

56  38 

22 


55  21 
10 
54  59 


5  17  35 

18  47 

19  42 


50  35  30 
10 


212. 

I.  C.  3'  30". 

Chron.  slow  on  L. 


Lat.  66°  25'.4  N. 


A.  T.  1"  4» 


2Q- 
I.  C. 


2  0. 

I.  C.  -  3'  l.'^ 


2  0.  I.e. -3']. v. 

O  N.  24 J°  W.  by  C. 
20-  O  ^I^-  234°  Vr.  bv  C. 
2  0.  0  N.  23  W.  by  C. 

Var.  68°.3  W. 


2  0. 

I.e. 


23  50 

49  20 

24  40 

10 

25  34 

48 

2  0. 
1.0. 


JUNTS  29,  I860.— FlFTY-SEVEXTII  ENCAMPMENT. 


h.   ni. 
0     11 


13 
15 
16    25 


93      1 
92    59 

58 

56    30 

55 


41  45 

44  25 
48 

49  35 


45  37 
5 

44  21 
2 


2  0. 

I.  C.  +  V  30". 

Lat.  66°  25'.2  N. 


2  0. 

I.  u.  +  vw. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  A.  T.  3". 


July  2,  1866.— T'iftyseventii  Encamiwent. 


h. 

ni. 

s. 

11 

54 

30 

55 

35 

57 

58 

20 

59 

30 

o   / 

„ 

92  40 

40 

30 

41 

30 

40 

40 

30 

2  0. 

I.  C.  +  1'  30". 


HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1867. 

Astronomical  observations  made  during  the  years  186!-'G9 — Coutiuued. 


4G7 


July  2,  18G6.— Fifty-seventh  Encampment— Cout'd. 


b.  ni.    s. 
0      0    30 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

7 

8 


92    39 
40 


9    45 
10    40 


11     16  3 

17  43 

18  39 
21  16 
23  50 


39    30 
41    30 
40 
38 
40 

36  30 
36  30 
35 


47  55 
35 
24 
24 
24 


Lat.  60°  25'.2  N. 


2Q. 

I.  C.  +  1'  30". 

2e- 

2  0. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  A.  T.  2* 


July  6, 186C. — Piftt-eighth  Encampment. 


h. 

in. 

8. 

11 

55 

45 

57 

47 

59 

17 

0 

0 
2 
3 

20 

4 

10 

o   / 

„ 

91  46 

30 

46 

30 

46 

30 

48 

46 

30 

46 

46 

2Q. 

I.  O.  +  2'  30". 


Lat.  06°  31'.5  N. 


July  7, 1866. — Fifty-ninth  Encampment. 


7    30 

9 
10 
11 
12 
13 

13    50 
15 
16 
18 


91     35 
33 


35    30 

35 

33 

33 

31 

30 

30 

28 


2  m. 

I.  O.  -f  2'  30". 


Lat.  66°  30'.9  N. 


July  9, 1866. — Fifty-ninth  Encampment. 


h.  m.  s. 

8  13  20 

14  50 

16  20 


22  10 

23  10 
24 


11  54  25 

56  30 

59  20 

0  40 

1  50 
3 

4  37 

G  25 


0 


66  3G  30 

51 
C7   9 


68  10 
20 
31 


2(2. 

I.  C.  -  30". 

Chron.  .slow  on  L.  A.  T. 


2<2. 

I.  C.  -  30" 


15  30 
15  30 
15  30 
15 
10 
15 
14  30 


2(2. 

I.  U.  -  30". 

Lat.  06°  28'.2  N. 


Kefraction  great. 


July  10, 1866. — Fifty-ninth  Encampment. 


b.  m. 

s. 

o    /    // 

11  54 

10 

01  14  30  2  £2.  On  49',  off  14'  30". 

0   7 

20 

14    1 

8 

45 

12    1  Lat.  66°  29'.3  N. 

10 

50 

10 

13 

30 

«    I 

4  47 

50 

54  17     2Q. 

48 

£5 

4  30  L  C.  -  30". 

50 

53  52  Cbron.  slow  on  L.  A.  T.  41'. 

July  20, 1866.— Sixtieth  Encampment. 


ni. 

s. 

56 

5 

57 

45 

59 

12 

0 

41 

2 

50 

9 

10 

45 

12 

37 

87    47 
47 


47 

46    30 

46 

44 

41 

38 


I.  C.  +  1'. 


Lat.  60°  29'.  1  N. 


August  31, 1806.— About  three  ihles  north  of  Ship's 
Harbor  Islands. 


b.  m. 

s. 

8  48 

28 

49 

54 

51 

20 

44 

43    45 
30 


2  Q.    On  31',  off  32'  30". 

Long.  5^  44"  20'  W. 

Chr.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  5i'  20-"  15» 


September  1, 1800.— About  three  miles  north  of  Ship's 
Harbor  Islands. 


b. 

m. 

s. 

5 

3 

55 

16 

15 

18 

13 

22 

26 

10 

37 

35 

62  46 
53 
53 
54 
52 
43 


2  (2.    On  30',  off  33'  30". 


Lat.  66°  29'.9  N. 


April  27, 1807.— Sixty-fifth  Encampment. 


h. 

m. 

8. 

11 

35 

38 

39 

40 

41 

0 

23 

25 

30 

3 

17 

45 

18 

55 

20 

20 

74  21 
18 
17 
10 

74  7 
3 


55    32 

21 

8 


2  0.    On  39',  off  25'. 

Long.  5I'  44"'  20». 

Here  moved,  chron.  forward  36" 

Lat.  66°  26'  N. 


2Q.    On  38',  off  26'. 
Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  17' 


4(i8  JTalVs  Adronfjmmd  ObHervatwna,  1868, 

Ajsltotumii/Mt  ohhereatiom  vm4^.  darltuf  Hut  ym-ns  l*S6*-'<f5Q — C^vutimuail, 


-Ji  sv»-.  1'.  \fffl ^-^iwv'i'invtM  E*.7.AM»'Me»r, 


hiainnu^itt  Ul>,  IMJ^—lwthLai^-CeutimmA. 


;i    i«   iii 
44 


ai',.  «ytt  31', 


,1..  m-  as'j  ST, 


.'*. 

«- 

£> 

/ 

« 

I 

53 

4«l 

7 

4 

:^ 

4* 

5 

1^ 

aa 

aM 

7 

25 

ii» 

» 

15 

4 

«    15 
«    25 

>4       ^'J 

W    4« 

■w 

6    37 


^;:^      O«jo)     wtt'32'. 


t*  l«ft  to  fUiWiutein, 


iJu  W,  «tt  ;i4-    Sf.  J&o  W.  l>y  C, 
S.',  24'  W,  W  C, 
•/a;,  W'  W. 

t«  l<sft  to  m'ftitittiin. 
HjafkM,75r'  V.'    '     ' 
•»  ai,  W-  W, 


AMBa,  3, 


-TE»1«  I«CtO0«— OftHSOO-jOS'KC- 


•  /  1  SB  21, 1«e7— SjXtT-ntTH  ESCAMtUBST, 


h. 

«»- 

«. 

s 

, 

. 

11 

21 
2« 
29 

3(U 

42 
3i) 

54 

45 
51 

.05 

2  3   On  ZK--  ««  ae-. 

41 

^ 

55 

I 

'dli 

44 

40 

2 

4« 

a5 

2 

att 

2 

. 

52 

w 

1 

55 

1« 

54 

.% 

50 

2« 

5« 

« 

g 

15 

52 

!«<;.  67'=  SdK  3f. 

2 

32 

3« 

43 

2  S-    Ob  2%'.  off  37', 

33 

53 

42 

4H 

AMsiiuiMl  ivuf:,  -V'  25>*  w. 

35 

3» 

Clirtrti,  «low  wu  L.  ML  'I'.  18"  ]  V 

36 

m 

27 

37 

hO 

1J4 

AllSIX/ 14,  11868,— rOUBTEBKTH  I«LOO— OOGUT  ISLAXI>^. 


2')     5", 


u. 

HI, 

», 

n 

3» 

45 
4H 

40 

fin 

40 

0 

ti 

Wi  1 

H 

,'>«  i 

10 

20 

m  45 

3'J 


03    23    30 
2« 

27    30 
27    30 
27 
21 
20 


<:iimiL  al'rfr  i-u  L.  V.  T.  J?"-  55«, 


I'JJ'Ill   >■-»■  A»))-*lfc»», 


2  a, 

I,X,  4  3'  30". 


Ldt.m'^w.iS. 


',  i  i'lnvm  JSxcAMFMKxr. 


ll.Mt, 
7  12 
4  27 
7  17 
4  22 


iflU.UI.' 

32j*.Mi. 


•  fiH    20    'M  '  2  H, 

Cbrou,  Kl/iW  oii  L.  M.  X  14"  JO*. 


KKI'iKMIiKM  15,  li(«7, — IWILLIJC 


it,     UL  «, 

11    38  4ti 

42  40 

4«  10 


3      5    30 


8 
11    23 


0 

, 

„ 

m 

20 
21 

11 

30 

38 

30 

r, 

37 

32 

2  3-    On  32',  off  32'  30" 
Lsit.  68=  5»',5  X. 

2£)'  f>D32',«tfa3'. 

XTI5--  W.  h\  C. 

\.  ](P  W.  li'v  C. 

X.  17'-  W.  b'v  C, 

(;Uroit,  bIhjw'ou  L,  M,  X  55"  i 

Var.  98^  W. 


i  ii  Ixun. 


li,  ni. 

7    18 

40 

21 

23 

10 

'2  2j-  (>u  30'.  off  34'. 
^v"S.  29^'  W.  l,y  C. 
.,  ki.  :W'  \V.  J,v  C. 

vK.  :i)'-  w.  l.'vC. 

ry  K.  .JO'  VV.  by  C. 
CIjiou,  kIow  oil'  I>.  M.  T. 
A'rii.  «r'.l  W. 


A  Pirn.  1^,  1W5>- 


ll.   til. 

N, 

11     14 

30 

10 

35 

1J< 

22 

21 

l^i 

23 

4-1 

2.'. 

fiO 

C/        / 

„ 

52    25 

25 

26 

24 

23 

30 

n 

On  :;)',  <>H  4J' 


Uit.  m-  30',«  N, 


1.,  I„ 

'.»     47 

.;') 

,i'.i 

■Yl 

;;„ 

50 

20  ' 

m 

5;j 

1 

11 

50 

20  1 

24 

30  1 

M 

43  1 

32 

30 

10      2 

35  1 

1 

47 

l/Xl — QL'ILLUM  CllEEK. 


J.    -J.   On  28'  30".  off3.V 
.- /S,  M'  \V.  livO. 
v  .S.  8.J'  CO  W.  Jjy  C. 
r.j  S,  8<i--  W,  by  C'. 
^v  S.  H7i'-'  W.  f.y  C. 
r.j  H,  HO"  W.  bv  ('. 
r.j  K,  KM'-  W.  b'v  C. 
Chroii,  mIow  on  L.  M.  X  SO"  22" 
Var,  107^0  W. 


lldlFs   Aslioifon/ica/  Ohscrrdfioits,  ISdS. 


4G9 


.lnlroiKiiiiifdl  olisirriiliiiiis  iikkIc  (hiniiij   llif  ijatrH    |H()|-'(i',l — ( 'oii(  iniiril. 


Allill.  lit,   ISCiK.— 'rilllili  Icil.OO — CllOZIItn  KlVKR. 


III. 

1^ 

II 

Hi 

ir, 

;i(i 

IK 

•JH 

•JO 

r.(( 

22 

:;(( 

•>i.).  On ->H',  oir;w'. 
i-)S.  ;ii '  w.  i.v  (1. 
(.1  s.  -iw  W.  l.'v<!. 
(•)S.  ;)(i"  w.  i.'v  (!. 
(0  s.  ;i()i"  w.  (iv  0. 
(•)  s.  ;ti"  w.  l.yd. 

('IlI'DII.  HJtlW  nil    I,.  M. 

Viir.  OlC^.d  \V. 


Between  Tiiiud  and  rouiiTH  Igloob. 


III. 

H. 

f),"! 

Id 

ri7 

:»:( 

(1 

r.;i 

■J 

;)() 

r. 

7 

fiO 

II 

1.^ 

11 

:i() 

IH 

•21 

!ir. 

•i() 

n 

28 

4U 

2  Q-  Oi>  28', 
(.)S.  K7"  W.  1 
(.)  S.  K7"  W.  I 

(.)S.  m'  \v.  1 

(.)  S.  HH,V^  W. 

0)  S.  Kliji'^  vv. 

O  N.  Hflo  W. 
(0  N.  HH°  W. 
0)  N.  W  W. 
(•)  K.  Kfii"  VV, 
(•)  N.  K^Li"  W, 

Liii,.  m"  ;)i'.ii 

Viir.  Hi)". 4  W, 


od'  ;)(i'. 

i>,v<;. 
I..V  <;. 

l.y  <!. 
(.V(!. 
l.y  (J. 

byC. 
by  0. 
byC. 
.  byC. 
.  byC. 


Ai'iiiL  20,  1808.— Eoumri  ToLOO— GbinnkIvL  Lake, 


2Q.  OiiiiO',  o(r:i-i'. 
f.fs.  'i;)''  w.  bv  <:. 
(•)S.  -i;!.',"  w.  bv<;. 

I.,  s.  ll"  w.  l.y'C. 
i.)S.  'IT"  W.  by  C. 
(:|ii..ii.h1.)w  (.11  I,.  M.'l',  1H(I'" 
Var.  100O.3  W. 


Ai'iiir-  20, 1808.— Between  Fouutii  and  Fifth  Tglooh. 


ll.  Ill 


•2!» 

If. 

;t2 

U) 

r.r. 

:i7 

r, 

(CI 

1 

11 

18 

:io 

■17 

:\:> 

27 

.'">.'> 

\u 

:irii 

!) 

4(t 

-lo 
4;i 

;io 

17 

»() 

411 

2  r-).  On  :i(i',  (iiriif. 
(•j'N.H7"  vv.  i.v<-:. 

C-j  N.  H(W"  W.  byC 
(oN,  Hd'i  \V.  l.v'C, 
r.jN.  8H'>  (?)  vv'.  byC. 
(■)  N.HO"  VV.  l.y  (f, 
r.)  N.  «•!"  VV.  I.'v  (!, 
(•)  N.8i!A'>  VV,  (tyf!. 
^)N.  «•/'  W.  bv'<!. 
r-)N.  7!!'^'  VV,  by<;, 
Lai.  0!)'^  4(l'.4  N. 
Var.  lOK^  W. 


APHii.  22, 1868,— Sixth  Igloo— Encami-ment  Hay. 


b.    III. 

H. 

<.)   r.!) 

20 

Id       0 

H 

40 

r,o     0    ;io 

17 


'>(jj.    On  'M,  oir.'I'W. 
r.j  8,(10"  VV.  l.v«!. 
C:jK,  70i"  VV.  by  f!. 
rVjH.  71. V'  VV.  I.'v  <;. 
niin.ii.  fiiMt,  on  r,.  M.'r,  :i" 
Viir.  I(H''.2  VV. 


Ai'iiii,  22, 1808.— Sixth  Ioixjo— ICnua»ii''t  Bay— Coul'tl. 


2  Q.    G)  S.  84^'  "VV,  by  0, 
('•)S,  H71''  W.  I.v(!. 
{■)S.  HH"  \V.  bv'i;. 
(OS.  WU"  VV.  (.v(!. 
(•)S.  H»S"  W.  l.y  (!. 
(■)K.  87''  VV.  l.y'O. 
(•)  H.  h;i»  \V,  by  (J, 
(■)  S.  8!!"  W.  I.'v  <). 
CO  S,  HI"  \V.  I.'v  (!, 
(oS,  8()i''  VV.  l.y  (1. 
COS.  HO''  VV.  bv'(!, 
(oS.  7(1''  VV.  I.'v  (1. 
COS.  7H'^  \V.  l.'vC. 
0S.  771"  VV.  l.y  (!. 
CJH.  77'^  VV.  by  (J. 

C^  S.  T.^i"  VV.  by  0. 
COS.  7f.o  VV.bv<J. 
Q)  8.  740  w.  l.y  (J. 

U)  H.  724°  W.  by  f". 
(■)  S.  72'"'  VV.  l.y  <J. 
(■)H.  71"  VV.  I.'v  (J, 
J,al,.  {\W  ATM  U. 
Mm:  ]02".f.  VV. 


2Q-\    On 'Jll',  oil  il.V. 

CO  N,  lOi"  VV.  I.v(!. 

(■)  N,  111'  VV.  l.y'C. 

(•)  N.  ID'  VV.  by  C, 

(Hiroii.  Cimloii  L  M,  'I'.  2'"  fi.V. 

Viir.  l)0".f.  VV. 


Ai'nii.!  27, 1808.— Ninth  Igi/x),  bamk  ab  bixtii. 


b.    in. 

N. 

11    :ifl 

ao 

41 

;)0 

4(i 

50 

r.i 

10 

57 

il2 

0      4 

7 

15 

10 

511 

l."i 

18 

.<! 

21 

50 

25 

5(1 

o 

, 

„ 

07 

45 
51 

5(1 

;io 

(18 

1 

2 

!t0 

2 

:io 

07 

57 

55 

no 

52 

47 

2G).  On  28',  offnO'. 
(■rU.  H7"  W.  bvC 
(•)  N,  HI"  (/»  VV.  I.v<! 
t.iN.7IU"  VV.  bvt^. 
CoN.  7I»J"  VV.  l.yO. 
(.1  N.  IW  VV.  l.y'(!. 
CoM,7H<'  VV,  b'v<l. 
fO.N.7(l"  W,  l.'vO. 
(;  N,  75^'  VV.  l.'y  (!. 
(OX.7!!'^  VV.  by  (J. 

(.)  N.  70°  W,  by  C. 
Lai.  0I»°47'.8N, 
Var.  10!1°  W. 


APIUL  28,  1808,- TSLANII,  WEHT  ltNTUAN(JE  TO  FultV  AND 
UE(JI.A  H'lHAITh. 


in, 

H, 

40 

44 

47 

50 

51 

20 

54 

:io 

58 

:i 

45 

(1 

40 

10 

:i5 

15 

27 

18 

no 

21 

20 

0 

/ 

// 

(18 

15 
17 

LMI 

:io 

24 

20 

:io 

27 

27 

27 

2(1 

!l(l 

2fi 

!I0 

24 

ao 

22 

18 

2G!,    Oil 

c-)U.  w  vv. 


10',  oir ; 
by  ( 

0)  N.74'  vv,  l.v< 
Co  N.  7:i"  vv,  b'v( 

Co  N,  724'^'  VV.  I.v 
r,;N.  72'"^  VV.  bv'< 
Gj^.lV  W.  bv< 
0)  N.  704°  VV.  I.v 
0)  N.  70'^  VV,  bv( 
(.J  N.(IH°  VV,  I.'v* 
C)  N.  07°  VV.  by  ( 
G)  N,  0(1°  VV,  by  ( 
f.iil,.  011°  54'.  5  N. 
Vai'.  10H°.8  VV, 


470 


IlaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1868. 


Astronomical  ohscrvafions  made  during  the  years  18G4-'69 — Continued. 


Apeil  28, 1868.— Island,  west  entrance,  &c.--Cont'd. 

Ma 

y2,  1868.— Eleventh  Igloo,  near  Cape  East— Cont'd. 

h.  m.    8. 
4    27 

35  15 

36  30 

37  50 

o       /      // 
42    37 
41    16 
4 
40    51 

2Q. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M  T.  1"  3'. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  58'. 

h. 
5 

m. 
10 
12 
13 

s. 
58 
40 
35 

a       /       // 
36    39 

20 

11 

2  0. 

O  to  right  to  mark. 

0  N.  6°  E.  by  C. 
0  K.  7°  E.  by  C. 

2  0.    0N.  7J°E. 
0  N.  8°  E. 
0  N.  8°  E. 

0  to  rijrht  to  mark. 
Bear'g6f0 marks.  80° E.  bvC. 
Alt.  of  (^  mark  25'. 
Var.  98°  W. 

5 

16 

15 

89    37 

4    45    43 
47    40 
49    17 

39    31 

12 

38    56 

5 

18 
20 

22 
27 

April  29, 1 

868. — Tenth  Igloo,  near  Cape  Englefield. 

5 

23 
26 
27 

28 
38 

34    30 

3 

33    47 

h.    m.    8. 
11    53 

57    27 
0      1 
4 

5    30 
7     10 
11    45 
13    30 

O          1           II 

69    11    30 

11    30 

12 

13 

13 

13 

11 

10 

2Q.    On  31',  off  33'. 
O  K.  72°  W.  by  C. 
O  N.  70°  W.  by  C. 

O  N.  67°  W.  by  C. 

0  N.  65JO  "W.  by  C. 
Lat.  69°  51'. 
Var.  112°W. 

5 

32 
34 

32 
16 

85    57 
41 

May  10, 1868.— OoGLiT  Islands. 

h. 
11 

0 

m. 

24 

28 
31 
34 
40 
43 
13 
17 

8. 

30 

10 

15 
30 

O        '        // 

77    10 

10 

9    30 
9 
3 
0 

2  0.  On  30',  off  34'. 
0  N.  88°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  85JO  AV.  by  C. 

0  N.  82°  "W.  by  C. 
0  N.  81°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  81°  TV.  by  C. 
O  N.  75°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  7.5°  TV.  by  C. 
Lat.  68°  58'.4  2f . 
Var.  92°.  2  "W. 

2  0.    0N-.byC. 

0  N.  by  C. 

0  N.  1°  E.  by  C. 

0  N.  3i°  E.  by  C. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  Si™  ;;g-. 

Va-.-.  95°.  1  W. 

May  1, 18C8.— Tenth  Igloo. 

h.    m.    s. 
10    28    29 

30  24 

31  20 
36      6 
37 

38 
45 

o       /       // 
60    57 
67      0 

10 

30 

35 

40 

2  £2-    On  34',  off  30'. 
O  S.  84°  W.  by  C. 

O  S.  86°  "W.  by  C. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M  T.  1"  44". 

Var.  110O.9  "W. 

1 

4 

31 
33 
35 
50 

27 
45 
45 
30 

42    10 

41    44 

23 

May  2, 1 

868.— Eleventh  Igloo,  near  Cape  East. 

h.    m.    8. 
11    45 

48    40 
53 

55    45 
59 
0      0    50 

4 

0    50 
11    30 

0         /           '/ 

71 

1 

1  30 

2  30 
2    30 
2 

1 

0 

70    56 

2Q.   On  31',  off  33'. 
ON.  86°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  85°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  83P  W.  by  C. 
O  N.  83°  W.  by  C. 
O  N.  82°  W.  by  C. 
O  N.  81°  W.  by  C. 

0  N.  81i°  "W.  by  C. 
O  N.  80°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  69°  49'.  7  N. 

2  0.    On  Cape  East. 
O  to  right  to  mark. 

May  20,  1868.— Fifth  Encampment— Second  jouunkv 
FROM  Ooglit. 

h. 
9 

9 

m. 

27 

29 
31 
36 
38 

8. 

35 

0          '          II 

73      5 

18 
32 
74 
15 

2  0.    On  32',  off  32'. 

0  S.  60°  "W.  by  C. 

O  S.  GQo  "W.  b'v  C. 

O  S.  Gli°  W.  by  C. 

O  S.  03°  TV.  bv  C. 

0  S.  63A°  W.  in-  C. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  26™  4  . 

Var.  96°.6  TV. 

2  0.    ©N.  79°  TV.  by  C. 
©Tf.  78°  TV.  by  C. 
0  N.  764°  TV.  bv  C. 
0  N.  75°  TV.  by  C. 
0  N.  73i°  TV.  bv  C. 
Lat.  70o'0'.8  N.  " 
Var.  101 0.2  TV. 

After  meridian  ob.sorvations, 
chron.  sot  forward  30"". 

5      1    19 

3  27 

4  22 

5  13 

38    17 

37    54 

46 

36 

11 

28 
33 
37 
42 
49 

15 
30 
40 

79    45 
45    30 
45 
43 
37 

5      7    20 

8  20 

9  18 

91    35 
28 
10 

HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  18  8. 


471 


Aslronomical  obscrvationfi  made  during  the  years  18G4-'09 — Coiiliiuicd. 


Junk  3, 

1868.— First  Encajipment  on  return  journey 
TO  llEPULSE  Bay. 

June  13, 1868.— 

Fii-TU  Encampment. 

li.  m. 

s. 

o       /      // 

h.    m. 

s. 

0        /         " 

8    41 

30 

86    21     30 

2  Q.    On  35',  off  29'. 

11    40 

45 

90    30 

2  £J.    On  28',  off  36'. 

48 

20 

29 

49 

15 

34 

Assumed  long.  82°  52'  W. 

57 

50 

32 

53 

10 

37 

0S.  75°  W.  byC. 

9      3 

20 

32 

58 

20 

42(?) 

0  S.  70°  W.  by  C. 

8 

10 

28 

0      3 

25 

43 

Q  S.  77°  W.  by  C. 

IG 

30 

25 

7 

43 

0  S.  80°  W.  by  C.                       I 

21 

50              16 

Lat.  68°  55'.5  N. 

15 
36 

41 

0  S.  80°  (?)  W.  bv  C.                  1 
O  S.  88°  W.  bv  C. 
Lat.  07°  37'.4  N. 
Var.  79°.3  W. 

2  0.    On  28',  off  36'. 

June  4, 1868.— 

First  Encampment. 

li.    Tn. 

s. 

0          '         '/ 

4    50 

25 

56    35 

10    40 

40 

2  Q.   On  35',  off  29'. 

52 

18 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  5"'  47". 

O  S.  63°  W.  by  C. 

53 

20 

2 

43 
46 

55 
40 

83  52    30 

84  4 

0  S.  65°  ^Y.  by  C. 
O  S.  05°  W.  by  C. 

48 

47 

14 

0  S.  66°  W.  by  C. 

Chrou.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  2'"  25». 

June  15, 1868.- 

-Sixth  Encampment. 

86    41 
42 

Var.  87°.8  W. 

2Q.    0  S.  86°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  87°  W.  by  C. 

11    50 

52 

50 

h.  m. 

8    43 

s. 
27 

O          '          " 

71      2 

2  0.    On  32',  off  32'. 

58 

40 

45 

0  w. 

44 

54 

18 

0      1 
5 

7 

30 
15 
10 

44 

45(2) 
45 

0  N.  89°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  88°  "W.  by  C. 

45 
52 
54 

57 
12 
50 

29 

72    32 

59 

0  S.  7°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  19°  W.  by  C. 

g 

50 

43    30 

58 

24 

73    33 

0  S.  20°  W.  by  C. 

10 

20 

42 

0  N.  85°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  68°  55'.8  N. 
Var.  90°.4  W. 

9      0 

32 
55 

55 
74    18 

0  S.  20°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  21°  W.  by  C. 
Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  10-"  7». 
Var.  76°.3  W. 

2  0.    On  32',  off  32'. 
0  Si.  80°  W.  by  C. 

June  5, 1868.— Secon 

D  Encampment  on  return. 

25 

91    21 

11    55 

h.    m. 

11    53 

57 

0      2 

4 

6 

9 

11 

O          t           ff 

8. 

25 
10 

87     11    30 
87     12 

13 

12    30 

11    30 

11 

10 

2  Q.    On  35',  off  29'. 
Assumed  long.  82°  5'  "W. 

58 

0      1 

5 

55 
45 
15 

23    30 
25 
27    30 

(.)  S.  80i°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  8l|°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  83°  W.  by  C. 

7 
40 

7 

30 

28 

0  S.  85°  W.  by  C. 

10 
13 

30 

28 
27    30 

0  S.  86°  W.  by  C. 

3 

Lat.  68°  48'.6  N. 

18 
23 

55 

27 
23 

0  S.  86°  W.  by  C. 

27 

25 

20 

0  S.  87°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  67°  22'  N. 

June  6, 1868.— 

Second  Encampment. 

Var.  84°.4  W. 

li.  ni. 

a. 

o       /       // 

6    13 

45 

40      6 

2  0.    On  35',  off  29'. 

Jl 

JNE  19, 1868.— 

Eighth  Encampment. 

15 
16 

7 
13 

39    52 
41 

19 

O  N.  10°  E.  by  C. 

h.  m. 

s. 

o      /      // 

20 

53 

38    50 

1    46 

45 

88 

2  Q.    On  26',  off  38'. 

49 
51 

8 
45 

87    46 
32 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  16"'  6". 
Lat.  60°  .54'  N. 

6    27 

35 

89    34 

0  to  right  to  mark. 

1 

Assumed  long.  84°  21'  W. 

29 
30 

10 

17 
4 

Bear'g  of  0  mark  S.  72°  E.  by  C. 

Var.  94°.2  W. 

5    57 

40 

46      3 

2  0.    On  19',  off  4.5'. 

6    31 

47 

36    55 

2Q. 

59 

55 

45    38 

Chron.  set  back  19  minutes. 

33 

4 

43 

6      7 

44    16 

34 

25 

28 

0N  150E.  byC. 

6    37 

35 

7      8 

0  N.  17°  (?)  E.  by  C. 

6    23 

57 

41 

2  0.    On  19',  off  45'. 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  5"'  9'. 

25 

45 

40    38    30 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  16""  7'. 

Var.  95°.  2  W. 

27 

50 

15 

472 


HaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1868. 


Antronomical  oiservadons  made  durinfj  ihc  years  18(34-'69 — Continued. 


June  23, 1868.- 

-Ninth  Encampment. 

June  25,  1868.- 

■ 
-Eleventh  Encampment— Continued. 

h.   m. 

s. 

o 

/      // 

h. 

m. 

s. 

o 

/      // 

4    15 

0  S.  50°E.  brC. 

8 

56 

20 

74 

24    30 

2  0. 

21 

0S.  4GJ,oE.  ijyC. 

57 

22 

35 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  O™  31'. 

25 

0  S.  4G0  E.  by  C. 

59 

52 

26 
27 

O  S.  47°  E.  bV  C. 
0  S.  47°  E.  by  C. 

28 

0  S.  46°  E.  by  C. 

9 

1 

45 

76 

22    30 

2  0.    On  30',  off  33'  30". 

30 

0  S.  47°  E.  by  0. 

O  S.  21°  W.  bv  C. 

32 

0  S.  46°  E.  by  C. 

5 

22 

2-©.     0  S.  22°  W.  bv  C. 

35 

39 

i          43 

O  S.  45^°  E.  by  C. 
0  S.  44°  E.  bv  C. 
0  S.  44°  E.  bv  C. 

7 

50 

22 

2  0.     0  22aoW.  byC. 

44 
45 
46 
49 

O  S.  44°  E.  by  C. 
0  S.  44°  E.  by  C. 
0  S.  43i=  E.  bv  C. 
0  S.  43°  E.  by  C. 

9 

59 

0  S.  37°  W.  bv  C. 

0  mark  N.  48°  W.  by  C. 

54 

0  S.  41°  E.  by  C. 

10 

5 

0S.  38P"W.  byC. 

56 
59 

0  S.  41°  E.  by  C. 
0  S.  40J°  E.  by  C. 

5      0 

0S.  4uoE.  bvC. 

11 

14 

8 

91 

30 

2(2.    On  30',  off  34'. 

4 

0S.  39°E.  byC. 
2  0.     On  32',  off  32'. 

15 

50 

37    30 

0  to  right  to  same  mountain. 

5    52 

30 

40 

11 

25 

75 

51 

55 

8 

33    30 

Cbron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  2"°  32'. 

27 

25 

17 

57 

25 

41 

0  S.  24°  E.  by  C. 

29 

10 

2  0. 

6      5 

11 

33 

47 

92 

32 

9 

0  S.  22i°  E.  by  C. 

35 

35 

35 

10 

0  S.  23°  E.  by  C. 

45 

40 

54 

11 

30 

0  S.  22J°  E.  by  C. 

2  0.     On  32",  off  31'  30". 

47 

40 

57 

2  0.    On  30',  off  34'. 
0^.73°"W.  byC. 

10    45 

55 

89 

41 

11 

54 

53 

93 

9 

48 

17 

53 

Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  2°>  48». 

49 

17 

58 

57 

37 

11 

0S.  74°  W.byC. 

55 

55 

90 

30    30 

0  S.  5ip  W.  bv  C. 

0 

0 

30 

12 

0  S.  75°  W.  by  C. 

11      0 

10 

49 

0S.  52°  W.  byC. 

3 

55 

13 

0  S.  75P  W.  by  C. 

4 

36 

91 

8    30 

0  S.  54°  W.  by  C. 

6 

30 

13    30 

0  S.  70h°  W.  by  C. 

18 

0  S.  56JO  W.  by  C. 

10 

15 

0S.  77i°W.  byC. 

41 

20 

0  S.  70°  W.  by  C. 

13 

10 

14    30 

0  S.  79°  W.  by  C. 

49 

20 

0  S.  70°  W.  by  C. 

18 

0S.  80°  W.  byC. 

52 

93 

7 

0  S.  70°  W.  by  C. 

20 

11     30 

56 

55 

10 

0  S.  72°  W.  by  C. 

22 

5 

10 

0  S.  82°  W.  bv  C. 

0      2 

12 

0  S.  74°  W.  by  C. 

Lat.  66°  29'.5  N. 

4 

40 

12 

0  S.  75°  W.  by  C. 

Var.  77°.6  W. 

8 

12 

0  S.  76°  TV.  by  C. 

12 

10 

0  S.  77A°  W.  by  C. 

1 

16 

15 

9 

0  S.  79°  W.  by  C. 

Nov 

EMBEE  11.  1868. — ^FlKST  ENCAMPMENT.                   1 

Lat.  06°  34'.9  N^. 

Var.  75°.'2  W. 

h. 
8 

m. 

58 

8. 

0 

48 

5 

2')|.    I.e. -2' 30". 

9 

22 

30 

47 

50    30 

Ther.  -  26°. 

Ju^ 

E25, 

1868.— E 

LEVEXTH  Encampment. 

Long,  a.ssumed  5^  44""  8'  W. 
Cliron.  last  on  L.  M.  T.  l-"  3». 
Lat.  66°  30'.7  N. 

h.   m. 

8    37 

8. 

30 

o 
113 

15 

0  to  rif^ht  to  mountain. 

1 

Elevation  250  f(;et  above  sea. 
2  0.    On  30',  off  34'. 

1 

fovi 

.MBER 12, 1868.— Second  Encampment. 

8    44 

30 

72 

22 

h. 

m. 

8. 

o 

/      // 

46 

10 

38 

8 

17 

47 

52 

2  1i.     T.  C.  -  2'  30". 

47 

30 

54 

36 

48 

40 

50 
35 

11  .S.  07^  W.  by  C. 
-^i  S.  70°  W.  by  C. 
%  .S.  72°  W.  by  C. 

8    49 

50 

110 

23 

0  to  riglit  to  mountain. 

9 

10 

"21  S.  78°  W.  by  C. 

52 

10 

109 

47 

Ther.  -  28°. 

54 

17 

22 

O  mark  by  C.  N.  48°  W. 
Var.77°.0W. 

Lat.  66°  35'  N. 
Var.  67°.  1  W. 

HaWs  Astroiiotnical  Observations,  1869.  473 

Astronomical  observations  made  during  the  years  1864-69 — Continued. 


November  14,  1868.— Thuid  Encampment. 


h.  ni.    8. 
10    32 


9    10 
15    30 


2  Q.    AssVlloiifr.  51'  42"  12'  "W. 

0  S.  72°  W.  by  C. 

0  S.  75°  W.  h'v  C. 

Lat.  66°  48'.8  N. 

Ther. -10°. 

Var.  75°.l  W. 


November  17, 1868.— Fourth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

s. 

10  2 

15 

a.m. 

16 

42 

15 

52 

2  9 .    Ass'tl  lonjr.  5''  41"-  43'  W. 

9  S.  72o\V.byC. 

?  S.  76°  W.  by  C. 

?  S.  83°  W.  by  C. 

?  S.  83°  W.  bv  C. 

Lat.  66°  57'.y  N. 

Var.  85°.3  W. 


November  18,  1868.— Fifth  Encampment. 


h.  in.    .s. 

7  33  a.m. 

8  53 


2  ?.     ?  S.  58°  W.  byC. 
?  S.  80°  W.  byC. 
Lat.  66°  59'  N. 
Var.  Se°.7  W. 


November  19, 1868.— Sixth  Encampment. 


11    33 


44    51 


30 


2  1/.     I.e. -2' 30". 
71  S.  60°  W.  by  C. 
T|  S.  69°  W.  by  C. 
7/  S.  72°  W.  by  G. 
Ther.  +  18°. 
Lat.  67°  1'  N. 
Var.  &30.4  W. 


November  20,  1868.— Seventh  Encampment. 


h.   m. 
9    14 


2  11.    1/ N.  79°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  66°  56'.5  N. 
Var.  83°. 6  W. 


November  21,  1868.— Eighth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

s. 

7  22 

50 

35 

30 

0 

,   „ 

46 

43 

22  30 

i 

2  T|.     1|S.  £ 
Lat.  67°  N. 
Var.  83°  W. 


'  W.  by  C. 


November  23, 1868.— Eighth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 

a. 

6  41 

49 

20 

7   6 

25 

32 


2^.     LC. -2'30" 
D  S.  83°  W.  by  C. 
Large  .sextant. 
Lat.  67°  N. 


November  23,  1868.— Eighth  Encampment— Continued 


]i.  ni.  s. 

7      0  20 

8  25 

14  30- 


30    30 
41    45 


7    33    53 
44    20 


32    12 


3    30 


46    50 

47 


2  ^.    Small  sextant. 
L  C.  -  2'  30". 


2  7/.    Large  sextant. 
Lat.  67°  O'.l  N. 


2  %.    Small  sextant. 
li  N.  90°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  67°  0'  N. 
Var.  87°.5  W. 


November  26,  1868.— Ninth  =  Fourth  Encampment. 


30 


2  Tf.. 

1/  N.  90°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  GC°  57'.8  N. 
Var.  84°. 5  W. 


April  13, 1869.— West  side  Pelly  Bay. 


55    40 


60    55    20? 


2  Q.  On  30',  off  35', 
O  S.  £6°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  87°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  89°  W.  by  C. 
O  S.  89°  W.  by  C. 
O  S.  90°  "W.  by  C. 
Lat.  68°  30'  N. 


Eighteenth  Encampment. 


42      8 


39    41 


2Q.    On  21' 30",  off  43' aO". 

0  N.  34°  W.  by  C. 

0  N.  34°  W.  by  C. 

0  N.  33°  W.  by  C. 

Ther.  -  12°. 

Cbron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  9""  4', 

Mag.  var.  82°.8  W. 


April  21,  1869. — Twentieth  Encampment. 


h.  m. 
11    47 


52 
.56    30 

2 

7 
12    20 
18 


5    37  8 

38  35 

39  57 
44 

47 

51  15 


3ii 
3'j 
3t3 

35  15 
33  30 
29    30 


26  45 
30 
15 

25  30 
0 

24    12 


2  Q.  On  33',  off  31'. 
0  S.  65°  W.  bv  C. 
0  S.  67°  W.  by  C. 
O  S.  72°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  74°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  76°  W.  bv  C. 
0  S.  80°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  80°  W.  by  C. 
Lat.  68°  31'.  1  N. 

2£D. 

0  N.  15°  "W.  by  C. 
0  N.  13°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  12°  W.  by  C. 
0  N.  11°  W.  by  C. 
Chron.  fast  on  L.  M.  T.  3" 
Vai-.  76°.  6  W. 


41'. 


474  UalVs  Astronomical  Observations,  1869. 

Astronomical  ohscrvailons  made  during  the  years  1864-'69 — Continued. 


April  26, 1869.- 

-TWESTY-THIUD  EKCAMPMEXT. 

June  4, 1869.— EoKTr-FiEST  Encampment. 

h.  m.    s. 
11    41    43 

45    25 
49    45 
55      5 
0      0    55 
5    45 
11 

16    45 
20    45 

O          ' 

69    46 

49 
51 
55 
56 
54 
51 
44 
42 

30 
30 
15 

2  0.    On  .'52',  off  32'. 
0  S.  51°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  52°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  53°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  54°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  57°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  57°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  59°  "W.  by  C. 
0  S.  60°  W.  by  C. 
0S.  59°(?)'\V'.  by  C. 
Lat.  68°  29'.9  if.  ' 

2  0.    0N.  27°  W.  by  C. 
0N.  2G°W.  byC.       ' 
0  K.  25°  W.  b'y  C. 
Chron.  fast  on  M.  L.  T.  !■"  35». 
Var.  61°.3  W. 

h.  m. 

8. 

0         /          " 

88    21    30 

19 
18 
15 

2  0.    On  27',  off  37'. 
O  S.  75°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  7G°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  77°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  80°  W.  by  C. 
As.  long.  5''  55"'  W. 
Lat.  68°  2'.  1  N. 

July  31, 1869.— Low-tide  Encampment. 

h.  m. 

S. 

0          /          '/ 

82    50 

48 

46 

44 

38    30 

35 

31 

2  0.    On  31',  off  32' 30". 
0  S.  59°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  60°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  61°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  62°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  63°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  64°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  65J°  W.  by  C. 
As.  long.  5''  46'"  40»  W. 
Lat.  66°  29'.3  N. 

5  45    33 
48    20 
51    25 

57  25 

58  44 

6  0      2 

27    45 

15 

26    42 

25    30 

15 

0 

Apkil  28, 1869.— 

TWENTY-FOUETii  ENCAMPMENT. 

h.   m.    s. 
0    32    30 

36    35 

40 
42    40 

68    35 

18 

3 

67    51 

2  0.    On  .•!2'.  off  32'. 
0  S.  87°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  88°  W.  by  C. 

0  S.  90°  W.  by  C. 

Chron.  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  SO"-  8'. 

Lat.  68°  38'  N. 

August  3, 1869.— Same  place. 

h.  m. 

8. 

0       /       // 

81      4 

8    30 
13 

15    15 
18    15 
18    15 
17 
15 

2  0.    On  32',  off  31'. 
Lat.  66°  29'.5  N. 

May  13,  1869 

—Thirtieth  Encampment. 

h.   m.    8. 

O          ' 

79    45 

45 
45 
45 
44 
41 
89 

30 
30 
30 
45 

2  0.    On  31'  30".  off  32'  30". 
0  S.  40°  E.  by  C. 
0  S.  45°  E.  by  C. 
0  S.  45°  E.  by  C. 
0  S.  43°  E.  by  C. 
0S.  40°E  byC. 
As.  Ions:.  6"  26"'  40»  "W. 
Lat.  68°  23'.8  N. 

August  19, 1869.— Near  Whale  Point. 

h.    m. 

11    45 

48 
53 
58 
0      2 
4 
10 
13 
17 

S. 

40 
15 
15 

45 

25 
40 

O          '          /' 

75    53 

56    30 
76 

2 

2    30 
2    30 
1 
75    58 
56 

2  0.    On  33' 30',  off  30' 30". 
0  S.  29°  W.  bv  C. 
0  S.  30°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  31i°  W.  by  C. 
0S.  33°.W.  byC. 
0  S.  34°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  35°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  36°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  38°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  39i  W.  by  C. 
As.  long.  5''  51"'  40"  W. 
Lat.  64°  21'. 7  N. 

May  16, 1869.- 

-Thirty-first  Encampment. 

b.  m.    8. 

o      /      // 
40    19 

21 
23 
25 
25 

0.  Sea  horizon.  T.  C.  +  4'. 
0  S.  47°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  45°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  43°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  41°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  42°  (?)  W.  by  C. 
As.  long.  6''  Ig™  W. 
Lat.  68°  32'.2  X. 

August  20,  1869.— Same  place. 

h.  m. 

4    21 
24 
27 
37 

s. 
35 
37 

o        /         /' 

43    11 

42    32 

0 

1 
2  0.     On  33'  30".  off  30'  30". 

0N.  70°  W.  by  C. 

Watch  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  30". 

Var.  340.2  W. 

ItfAY  23,  1869.- 

-Thirty-fifth  Encampment. 

h.  m.    8. 

0         ' 

83    38 

39 
40 
41 
39 

30 

2  0.    On  26',  off  37'. 
0  S.  61°  W.  by  C. 
0  S.  62°  W.  by  C. 

0  S.  64°  W.  by  C. 
G)  S.  66°  W.  bV  C. 
As.  long.  6''  H)-"  W. 
Lat.  68°  33'.  1  N. 

August  29, 1869.— Eowe'b  Welcomb. 

h.  m. 

8. 

O        /         II 

35    35 

0.   Sea  horizon.  I.  C.  -  2'  30". 
Altitude  of  «;yo,  14  feet. 
As.  long.  5''  52'"  29'  W. 
Lat.  63°  27'.3  N. 

IlaWs  Astronomical  Observations,  1839. 

Asironomical  observations  made  during  the  years  18G4-'69 — Continuecl. 


475 


August  30, 1869.— Eowe's  "Welcome. 


h.    m. 

8. 

0       >       // 

11    40 

45 

35    30    30 

Q.     I.  C.  -  2'  30". 

44 

40 

32 

Eyo  abovR  sea,  14  feet. 

47 

30 

32 

As.  long.  5''  45"  42»  W. 

50 

30 

32 

54 

15 

31 

57 

30 

Lat.  63°  8'. 9  N. 

September  2,  1869.— Hudson's  Strait. 

h.  m.    s. 


?4    32 


Q.    Sea  horizon.    I.  C.  —  3'. 
As.  long.  5h  lO-"  40»  W. 
Dip  -  4'. 
Lat.  63°  5'  N. 


Septestbbr  5,  1869.— Hudson's  Strait. 


h.  m.    R. 
8      7    20 


11    20 
35 


35    35 
35 


Q.    I.  C.  -  3'.    Dip  -  3'  40". 
Watch  slow  on  L.  M.  T.  57'"  2", 


As.  long.  4>'  30"-  4'  W. 
Lat.  60°  54'.9  N". 


September  C,  1869.— Hudson's  Strait. 


.    m. 

s. 

1    16 

15 

25 

25 

35    46    30 

42 


Q.    rc. -3'. 
Eye  above  sea,  1 2  foot. 
A's.  long.  4''  8"'  W. 
Lat.  60°  20'.8  N. 


APPENDIX    II. 


METEOROLOGICAL  JOURNAL  KEPT  BY  MR.  C.  F.  HALL  ON  HLS  SECOND 
ARCTIC  EXPEDITION,  JULY,  1864-APRIL,  18G9. 


A^PPENDIX    II. 


HALL'S  METEOROLOGICAL  JOURNAL,  1864-'69 


Tabulated  by  Mr.  R.  W.  D.  Bryan, 
Assistant  in  tlie  preparation  of  this  Narrative,  under  the  orders  of  the.  Navy  Department. 


METEOROLOGICAL  JOURNAL.! 


Locality. 

Date. 

Ther. 

Monti- 
cello's 
mercu- 
rial 
Barom. 

"Wind.: 

Sky. 

Remarks. 

At  sea* 

1804. 
July  5,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

6,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

7,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

8,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

9,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

10,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

o 

64 

68 

65 

67 

69 

69 

71 

70 

60 

64 

68 

58 

54 

57 

60 

In. 

29.80 
.84 
.96 
.97 
.95 
.90 
.88 
.80 
.80 
.83 
.80 
.78 
.80 
.80 

29.97 

Fog;  rain. 

•" 

Lat.    42°  15'  N. 
Long.  56°  37' W. 

Lat.     42°  46'  N. 
Long.  54°  56'  W. 

Lat.    43°  18'  N. 
Long.53°l.yW. 

Lat.     52°  27'  N. 
Long.  59°  56'  W. 

Lat.    61°  36'  N. 
Long.  67°  00' W. 

Davia  Strait. 
Lat.     61°  37'  N. 
Long.  67°  17' W. 

Lat.     61°  38'  N. 
Long.  67°  34'  W. 

:::::::;::;:;:::::::::::::; 

30,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

31,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

Aug.  1,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

2,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

34 
34 

'"■35" 
36 
33 

31 
37 
31 
32 
35 
32 

29.26 
.30 
.50 
.62 
.75 

29.71 

ESE...  Fresh. 

ENE....Gale. 
E.byN.-.Gale. 

Cloudy 

Cloudy 

Calm      

Calm    

Calm 

WNW 2 

W.by  N....5 
W.  by  N....4 
SW 4 

Hazy;  clear. 
Hazy;  clear. 
Hazy;  clear 

Hazy 

Cloudy 

. .  do  ■ 

Aneroid 
Bar. 

29.75 
.74 
.73 
.68 
.66 
.64 

*  Hall  sailed  from  New  London,  on  board  the  bark  Monticello,  July  1, 1864.    Observations  were  generally 
made  tbrico  daily,  viz,  a.  m.,  noon,  and  p.  m. 

t  The  defective  condition  of  bis  instruments  is  frequently  referred  to  in  the  preceding  pages  of  tbc  Karrativc. 

J  Figures  to  denote  tbe  force  of  the  wind:  0,  calm;  1,  light  air;  2,  light  breeze;  3,  gentle  breeze;  4,  moderate 
breeze;  5,  fresh  breeze ;  6,  strong  breeze ;  7,  moderate  galo;  8,  fresh  gale;  9,  strong  gale;   10,  whole  g.ilo;   11, 
storm ;  12,  hurricane. 

479 


480 


HaJTs  Meteorological  Journal,  1864-69. 


August,  1864. 


Locality. 


Davis  Strait. 
Lat.    61°  35'  N". 
Lous.  67°  51' W. 


Lat. 
Lorn 


Lat. 
Lons 


Lat. 
Lona 


Lat. 
Long 


61°  39 

;.  68°  08' 


61°  42 
68°  26- 


61°  48' 
,  68°  43 


62°  01 
69°  00 


I  Lat.    620  16' 
iLong.  70°  40 

Lat.    62°  43 
Long.  72°  33' 

Lat.     63°  48' 
Long.  75°  00 

Lat.    63°  07 
Long.  77°  08' 

Lat.     62°  24 
Long.  79°  34' 

;Lat.    61°  43' 
(Long.  82°  00' 


Lat 

Lonj 


60°  59' 

84°  27' 


Lat.    61°  33 
Long.  85°  10' 

Lat.    620  14 
Long  . . . 


Lat.    62°  08 
Long.  88°  40 


Date. 


Ther. 


1864. 
Aug.  3,  7  a. 

7p. 

4,  7  a. 

7p.; 

5,  7  a. 

7p. : 

6,  7  a.  : 

7p.i 

7,  7  a.  : 

7p. ; 

8,  7  a.  ; 

7p.; 

9,  7  a.  ] 

7p.i 

10,  7  a. 

7  p. 

11,  7  a. 

7  p. 

12,  7  a. 

7  p. 

13,  7  a. 


Lat.    62°  09'  K. 
Long.  90°  20'  W. 


Lat.    62°  44'  N.i 
Long.  89°  40' "SV.  I 

Depot  Island. 
Lat.     63°  47'  X.' 
Long.  89°  51'  W.| 
Do 


Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 


m. 

m. 

m.  I 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 

m. 


7  p.  m. 

14,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

15,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

16,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

17,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

18,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  ra. 

19,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7p.  m. 

20,  7  a.  TO. 


7  p.  III. 
21,7  a.  111. 


(  p.  m. 

22,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

23,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  in. 

24,  7  a.  m. 


I  p.  m. 

25,  7  a.  ni. 

ni. 

7  p.  ni. 


33 
35 
31 
32 
32 
32 
34 
34 
34 
33 
36 
34 
33 
38 
36 
36 
38 
38 
36 
38 
37 
38 
38 
36 
36 
45 
41 
40 
41 
42 
41 
39 
38 

37 
40 
38 
39 
41 
40 
41 
40 
40 
39 
39 
40 
40 
45 
42 
42 
46 
43 

42 
47 
42 
40 
40 
42 
44 
47 
45 
44 
47 
43 
46 
46 
44 
43 
50 
42 


Aneroid! 
Bar.     I 


Wind. 


Sky. 


In. 
29.  62 

.59 

.57 

.25 

.31 

.32 

.42 

.56 

.68 

.77 

.79 

.84 

.91 

.88 

.85 

.75 

.67 

.64 

.55 

.45 

.38 

.37 

.43 

.49 

.53 

.71 

.68 

.62 

.53 

.44 
28.99 

.89 
29.20 

.20 
.26 
.24 
.20 
.18 
.22 
.23 
.34 
.32 
.34 
.38 
.46 
.45 
.47 
.50 
.48 
.47 
.47 

.53 

.58 
.60 
.03 
.65    ' 

.63  ; 

.66  I 
.60 

.58  ! 

.00  ' 

•51   1 

.  00      ; 

.53 

.50 

.48    I 

.50 

.57 

.65 


SW 2 

SW 1 

SW 1 

NNW 2 

N"W.byW..5 
^"W.  byW.-6 
NW.byW..3 

NKW 3 

W.  byN....4 
W.  by  N...-4 
N W.  by  W.  5 

JTNTW 3 

XAV.  bvW..5 

WA^W'. 5 

WNW 3 

S.  br  E 
S.  bV  E 
S.  by  E 
SE  '. . . . 

SE 

SE 

SE 

SE 

ESE  . . . 
Baffling 
SSE. . . . 
SSE.... 
Calm  . . 

Calm 

SE 4 

E   5 

EJfE 5 

N 6 


Hazy;  cl'dy. 

Hazy;  cl'dy. 
do 

Fog 

Thick  fog... 

Cloudy 

do 

...do  

...  do  

...  do  

...do  

....do  

Few  clouds  . 


uo 


..-.do 

Cloudy  .-.. 

do 

Overcast . . . 

..-.do 

Cloudy 

....do    

Few  clouds 
Cloudy  . .  - . 

.-..do 

Few  clouds 

...do 

.-..do  

Cloudy ' 

Eog 


Rain 

.--do  

Threatening 


2v'W 

W 

W.  by  S. 

SW 

SW.. 


SSW 3 

>:]srE 6 

N 8 

NW.bvN.-.S 

N.  bvE 8 

NW' 7 

IS'^W 5 

NW 4 

NW.  by  W..3 
Calm  ....  ;... 
NW.  byT7..4 

WNW". 3 

WNW 4 

W.byJf 3 

NW"^. 2 

NAV 2 

NW 4 

NW 3 

S 2 

SSW 3 

SSW 3 

E 6 

NE 7 

NE 7 

NE 7 

NE 4 

NE 4 

NE 0 

NE    7 

NE 6 

NE 4 


Gloomy 

Cloudy 

...do    

Few  clouds  . 

..-.do 

Threatening 

Overcast 

...do  

...  do 

--.do  

Threatening 

. . .  do 

Cloudy 

...do": 

..  do 

...  do 

...  do 

--.do 


...do  .--- 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
Overcast. 
...do  ... 
Cloudy  . . 
Overcast. 
...  do  -.-. 
Cloudy  -  - 

. . .  do 

..  do  ... 
Overcast. 
Cloudy  . . 
....do\.. 


Remarks. 


Passing  showers. 

Sea-water  34°.    Hy.  12. 
Sea- water  39°. 

Sea- water  38°.    Hy.  12. 


Rain. 
Rain. 
Rain. 

Misty. 
Misty. 


Hazj\ 

Passing  showers. 

Hazy ;  passing  showers. 

Hazy. 

Hazy. 


Fog. 
Fog. 

Aurora  in  evening. 


HalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 


481 


August — Skptember,  1864. 


Locality. 

Date. 

Ther. 
o 

Aneroid 
Bar. 

Wind. 

1 

Sky. 

Remarks. 

1864. 

In. 

Depot  Island; 

Aug.  26, 7  a.  m. 

41 

29.74 

NE 

-.5 

Few  clouds . 

On  the  Teudei 

m. 

50 

.70 

NE 

..4 

..do 

Helen  F. 

7  p.  ni. 

46 

.68 

SE 

-.1 

...do  

Do  

27,  7  a.  m. 

42 

.50 

S 

.  3 

do 

Fog. 

7      "'• 

52 

.48 

NW 

-.4 

Cloudy 

"Fog-eater"    mora,    but    disap- 
peared at  8. 

,olP-"'- 

44 

.56 

N     

-.3 

Few  clouds 

Do  

28,  7  a.  m. 

40 

.68 

NNW.  .  . 

.  5 

....do 

m. 

44 

.68 

NNW 

-.4 

....do  

7  p.m. 

42 

.70 

imw 

..2 

.  -  do 

Do 

29,  7  a.  m. 

43 

.66 

NE      ...    . 

.  1 

Cloudv 

Hazy. 

*Staited    from 

*m. 

52 

.66 

NE.  bvE. 

.1 

Few  clouds  . 

Depot  Island. 

7  p.  m. 

40 

.68 

S    ..... . 

..5 

.-.do 

Aurora  12  j).  m.,  fine. 

30,  7  a.  m. 

40 

.75 

NNW.  ... 

.   5 

Cloudv 

Hazv. 

Lat.    64°  11'  N. 

m. 

53 

.80 

NW 

-.2 

Few  clouds  . 

Long.  88°  41'  W. 

7  p.  m. 

40 

.81 

S.  byE... 

.  2 

...do 

Aurora. 

Landed  

31,  7  a.  m. 

41 

.96 

N  ....    .   . 

.  4 

Cloudv 

Hazy. 

1st  Enc't. 

m. 

48 

.94 

S 

-.2 

Few  clouds . 

Lat.    64°  35'  N. 

7  p.  m. 

38 

30.06 

s 

4 

...do  

LonK.  87°  32'  W. 

Do 

Sept.  1,  7  a.  m. 

35 

30.00 

s 

-.4 

Cloudy 

Misty. 

m. 

37 

.12 

S 

.  ••) 

...  do    

[arranged,  but  reset. 

Do  

7  p.  m. 
2,7  a.  m. 

48 
40 

.18 
.26 

S 

WSW 

..5 
-.4 

Overcast 

....do  

The  barometer  capsized  and  dis- 

m. 

47 

.22 

s 

.  5 

Cloudy 

Hazy. 

7  p.  m. 

37 

.24 

s    

-.5 

...do  

Hazy. 

2d  Enc't. 

3,  7  a.  m. 

38 

.27 

sw 

.4 

...do  

Lat.     64°  50'  N. 

m. 

45 

.25 

ssw 

..3 

- .  do 

Long.  87°  15'  W. 
Do 

7  p.  m. 

38 

.37 

s 

..3 

...do  

Hazy. 

4,  7  a.  m. 

41 

.46 

s    

S 

Few  clouds . 
...do  

m. 

48 

.40 

WSW 

-.5 

Do 

7  p.  m. 
5,  7  a.  m. 

39 
40 

.40 
.41 

sw 

do 

s 

-.4 

...do  

m. 

54 

.35 

s 

-.5 

Threatening 

7  p.  m. 

42 

.06 

s 

.-3 

Few  clouds  . 

Do  

6,  7  a.  m. 

43 

29.93 

s 

-.3 

....do 

* 

m. 

50 

.88 

s 

-.5 

Cloudy 

Threatening. 

/  p.  m. 

41 

.88 

s    

-.2 

Few  clouds  . 

Do 

7,7  a.  m. 

39 

.88 

N 

-.1 

...  do 

m. 

49 

.76 

B  

-.1 

...do  

7  p.  m. 

33 

.84 

NE 

-.1 

Cloudy 

Threatening. 

Do  

8  7  a.  m. 

34 

30  02 

N 

(i 

do 

This  morn  spit  snow. 

m. 

40 

.06 

E.  byN     . 

-  4 

Few  clouds  . 

7  p.  m. 

34 

.14 

N 

.6 

...do  

3d  Enc't. 

9,  7  a.  m. 

26 

.24 

NE 

..3 

Cloudy 

Hazy.  1  Encampinent.s  No.s.  3,  4,  5, 

Lat.  64°  46'.3  N. 

m. 

40 

.14 

NE 

-.2 

....do 

Hazv.  >     0,  and  7  were  all  in  the 

Long.  87"^  14'  W. 

7  p.  m. 

32 

.10 

W 

-  2 

....do  

Hazy.  )     locality  called  Noowook. 

Do 

10,  7  a.  m. 

25 

.02 

W 

-.2 

Few  clouds . 

m. 

47 

29.90 

N.  by  W. . 

.  .2 

Cloudy 

7  p.  in. 

38 

.93 

sw 

.  .2 

Few  clouds . 

Do 

11,  7  a.  m. 

38 

.93 

SW 

-.3 

Cloudy 

m. 

42 

.89 

ssw 

-.3 

...do 

7  p.  m. 

40 

.95 

s  w 

-.2 

Overcast 

llain  one  hour  in  the  night. 

Do 

12,  7  a.  m. 

37 

.79 

ssw 

-.2 

Fog ;  misty  . 

Thick  fog. 

m. 

40 

.73 

S.byW... 

-.4 

Misty 

Rain. 

7  p.  m. 

34 

.73 

S.  by  W... 

-.4 

Overcast 

Do 

13, 7  a.  m. 

35 

.54 

E... 

-.3 

Misty 

m. 

37 

.32 

ESE 

.  5 

....do 

Rain  and  heavv  sea. 

7  p.  m. 

35 

.20 

ESE 

.  2 

...  do  

Rain  during  night. 

Do  

14,  7  a.  m. 

37 

.01 

SSW 

.  2 

Cloudy 

Fog. 

m. 

42 

28.98 

S 

..3 

....do 

7  p.  m. 

38 

29.04 

NW  .       . . 

2 

....do  

Do  

15,  7  a.  m. 

35 

.04 

N.  by  W.. 

.5 

Overcast 

m. 

38 

.34 

N.... 

.  7 

Cloudy 

7  p.  m. 

30 

.65 

N 

.5 

Few  clouds  . 

Do 

16,  7  a.  m. 

24 

.84 

N.  by  W.. 

.3 

Cloudy 

m. 

30 

.74 

NW 

.3 

...  .do 

3  p.  m.  ring  around  sun. 

7  p.  m. 

30 

.78 

NNW 

.1 

....do  

Do 

17,  7  a.  m. 

24 

.76 

NNE    .... 

.1 

-...do 

m. 

31 

.70 

W.  bvN.- 

.1 

....do  

7  p.  m. 

28 

.62 

WSW 

1 

Few  clouds . 

4th  Enc't. 

18,  7  a.  m. 

30 

.46 

S 

.3 

Overcast 

Lat.  64°  46'.5  K. 

m. 

32 

.45 

S 

-  2 

--  do 

Long.  87°  14'  W. 

7  p.  m. 

28 

.32 

ESE 

.3 

.-do 

S.  Ex.  27- 


-31 


482 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 
September— October,  1864. 


Locality. 


Date. 


4th  Enc't. 
Lat.  64^.40'.5Is'. 
iLong.STo  14'  W. 
Do 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


Ther. 


Aneroid 
Bar. 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do 
Do. 
Do. 
Do 


Moved  to  5th 

Enc't. 
Lat.   64°4C'.3X. 
Long.  87°  14'  W.> 
Do ! 


1864. 

Sept.  19,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

L'O,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

21,  7  a.  m.  1 

m. 

7  p.m. 

22,7  a.  m.  I 

ra.j 

7  p.m. 

23,  7  a.  m.  I 
m.  I 

7  p.m.' 

24,  7  a. 

7p. 

25,  7  a. 


7  p.  m. 

26, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

27,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

28,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

29,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

30,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

1,6  a.  m. ' 

m.\ 
6  p.  m.  j 

2,  6  a.  m.  j 

m. ! 
6  p.m.; 

3,  6  a.  m.  j 

m. 
6  p.  ni. 

4,  0  a.  m. 

m. 
(j  p.  m. 

5,  0  a.  lu. 

m. 
6  p.  m.  t 

6,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
6  p.  m. 

7,  G  a.  m. 

m. 
6  p.  m. 

8,  G  a.  m. 

m. 
6  p.  m. 


Oct. 


30 
30 
30 

28 
32 

28 

2G 
29 
30 
31 
32 
32 
35 
36 
32 
33 
35 
32 
32 
32 

30  i 

29  ' 

31  I 

30  I 
27  I 
29 
28 
25 
28 
26 
26 
32 
30 
32 
32 
33 
32 
36 
34 
32 
32 
30 
22 
26 
24 
24 
30 
30 
29 
29 
40 
20 
26 
26 
15 
15 
13 
12 
10 

6 
16     ! 


Do. 


m. 

20 

6  p.  m. 

19 

10,  6  a.  m. 

17 

m. 

17 

6  p.m. 

16 

11,6  a.  m. 

10 

m. 

U 

6  p.m. 

12 

In. 

29.28 
.36 
.48 
.64 
.70 
.73 

.67 
.62 
.62 
.57 
.58 
.58 
.59 
.58 
.60 
.58 
.56 
.58 
.58 
.50 

.41 
.38 
.36 
.35 
.50 
.49 
.45 
.41 
.34 
.46 
.56 
.58 
.60 
.52 
.49 
.46 
.48 
.44 
.44 
.47 
.51 
.61 
.64 
.55 
.50 
.44 
.45 
.44 
.02 

28.76 
.56 
.90 
.90 

29.02 
.20 
.40 
.50 
.63 
.66 
.64 
.56 
.61 
.58 

.30 
.20 
.20 
.53 
.04 
.75 


Wind. 


NE   2 

NE.  byE...3 

KE.  byE...5 
NE..'. 4 

:n' 4 

N 5 

N 5 

N 6 

N 5 

KNE    6 

N".  byE 4 

N 2 

S 1 

S    1 

Calm 

S.  bv  W.  ...1 

SW. 1 

Calm 

KE 2 

Iv'IS'E 6 


X 7 

NNW 4 

NW 6 

NW 4 

N".  bvW....2 

NNW 4 

N 5 

N'NW 3 

NW.  bylSr.    3 

NW 

W 

SW 

SW 

S 

SSE 

NNE 

S.  by  E  . . . 

SE.' 

SSE 

S 

NW 

N.  by  W. 
NW      .. 

NNE  

S.  by  Vr. . 

SW 

SW 

SE 2 

E 9 

NE 9 

NNW 10 

WNW 11 

NW 9 

NW 8 

NW 9 

ITW 9 

NW 8 

NW.  5 

XW 4 

NW 1 

ENE 3 

NE 3 

K.  byE 4 


K.  byE 5 

N.  byE 7 

N 8 

NNE 7 

N 5 

N.byE 4 


Overcast . 
...do  --. 
Cloudy  . . 
...do  ... 
Overcast. 
Cloudy  . . 

Overcast. 

Misty 

...do  .... 
Gloomy . . 
Overcast. 
...do  .  .. 
...do  ... 
...  do  .... 
...do  ... 
....do  .... 
...do  .... 
Cloudv  . 
..  do":... 
Overcast. 


...do  

..do 

do 

Cloudy 

...do  

Overcast  . . 

...do  

Cloudy    

Overcast 

...do  

Cloudy 

...do 

...do 

Overcast 

...do 

..do 

Fog 

Few  clouds 
Overcast  .. 

Fog 

Kain 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 
Overcast  . . 

.  do 

.     do 

. . .  do 

Heavy  snow 

...do    

...do 

Snow-diift . . 

...do  

...do 

...do  

...do  

do    

Few  clouds 

...do  

Clear 

Overcast  . . 
Cloudy  .... 
Overcast. . . 


Snow-squaUs  in  afternoon.    Au- 
rora at  night. 
Light  snow. 


Snow  and  rain. 


Spit  snow  now  and  then. 

Spit  snow.  fnight. 

Spit  snow  i-  in.    Snow  during  the 


Snow.    Sun  out  for  one  hour  this 

a.  m. 
Snow. 


Snow  began  1p.m. 


9  a.  m.  fog  ileared. 
Beautiful  weather. 
4  p.  ni.  began  to  cloud  up. 
Earn  during  night. 
Kain  began  at"9  a.  m.,  ceased  at 
[2  p.  m. 
Hazy. 


Spitting  snow. 
Spitting  snov.'. 
Spitting  snov>'. 
Gale  with  snow  began  at  midnight. 


Gale  ceased  at  7. 

Ther.  lowest  in  the  night,  3°. 
At  7  p.  m.  fine  rain.    Ther.  16°. 


. . .  do Heavy  snow  began  at  6  ; 

...do Heavy  snow. 

...  do I  Heavy  snow. 

. . .  do !  Snow-drift. 

Very  cloudy. 
...do '.-i 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


483 


OcTOBEu— November,  1864. 


Locality. 


Date. 


I      5tli  Enc't. 
iLat.  640  46'.3]Sr. 
I  Long.  87°  14'  "W. 
Do 


Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 


Do 
Do. 

Do. 


Do 
Do 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


18C4. 
Oct.  12,  6  a. 

6  p. 
13,  6  a. : 

6p.: 
14, 6  a. 

6p.: 

15,  6  a. : 

6p.  ■ 

16,  6  a. : 

6p. ; 

17,  6  a.  1 

] 
6p.  1 

18,  6  a.  1 


6p. 

19,  6  a. 

cp.; 

20,  6  a. : 

6p.: 

21,  6  a. : 

6p.: 

22,  6  a.  ; 

24,  6  p.  : 

25,  6  a. : 

6p.  : 

26,  6  a. : 

6p. ! 

27,  6  a.  ] 

1 
6p.  ] 

28,  6  a.  ) 

] 
6p.  ] 

29,  6  a.  1 

1 
Cp.  I 

30,  G  a.  ] 

1 

6  p.  ] 

31,6  a.  1 

) 

6p.  ] 

Nov.  1,  7  a.  I 

] 

7p.i 

2,  7  a.  ] 


7p. 
3,7  a. 

7p. 
4,7  a. 

7  p. : 
5,  7  a.  : 

7p.i 


Ther. 


12 
13 
26 
30 
28 
27 
30 
28 
30 
32 
31 

9 
18 

2 

1 
12 

2 
20 
13 


16 

0 

11 

18 

■  3 
3 

■  5 

■  15 

■  6 
•  15 

20 
.  26 
16 
18 
21 
21 
10 
12 

■  7 
1 
0 
7 
2 

10 

7 

0 
10 
10 

1 

14 
3 

15 
17 
25 
28 
25 
10 
11 

1.5 
10 
15 
31 
36 
15 

2 

2 
13 

7 


Aneioid 
Bar. 


In. 
29.96 


30.00 
.00 
.02 

29.99 
.99 

30.00 
.02 
.01 
.03 
.18 
.21 
.24 
.24 
.19 
.16 
.22 
.20 


.36 
.26 

29.99 
.70 
.90 

30.00 

29.94 
.76 
.65 
.62 
.60 
.90 

30.36 
.47 
.56 
.69 
.66 
.60 
.52 
.46 
.42 
.45 
.45 
.46 
.46 
.44 
.42 
.32 
.32 
.22 
.06 
.00 

29.87 
.40 
.20 
.18 
.19 
.19 
.18 
.18 
.23 
.25 
.36 
.30 
.23 
.10 
.10 
.12 


Wind. 


N 4 

N 3 

N.byE 1 

SE  :. 1 

SE 3 

SSE 5 

SE 5 

SE 5 

SSE 6 

SE  6 

SSE 5 

S.byE 5 

NE'; 2 

TS.  byE 2 

NNW 1 

SW 2 

WSW 1 

NNW 2 

N.byE 4 

N.bvE 6 


N     6 

SW 2 

SW 7 

NNW 6 

ISTNW 8 

NNW 8 

KNW 5 

N.  byE 3 

N 3 

N 5 

N.bv  W....3 

NNW 3 

N 5 

N.  byE  ....3 

N 2 

N     2 

N.  byE 4 

ISr.byE  ...  3 

N .2 

N.  byE 2 

K     4 

NNE 2 

N.  by  W....1 
N.  by  W....3 

N..-' 2 

N 3 

NNW 2 

N 1 

Cabn 

W 1 

SW 3 

S 2 

SW 4 

S.  by  W 6 

SW 8 

WSW 5 

SW 4 

WSW 5 

SW  5 


NW 

NW 

NW    

NW 

N. by  E  . . 

NE 

N.  by  W.. 
N......    .. 

E 


Sky. 


Keinarks 


Cloudy  . 

Overcast. .. 

...do 

...do  

...do  

...do  

....do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do  

...do , 

Eew  clouds 

..  do 

...do 

...do  

...do  

--  do 

Overcast  . . 
Cloudy 


Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

Overcast  . . 

. .-  do 

Cloudy 

...do 

Eew  clouds 

...do  

Cloudy 

Few  clouds 

.  do 

Cloudy  .  .. 

—  do 

Few  clouds 

Clear 

Cloudy 

do  :.... 

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

...do 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds 
. .  do  .     . . 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Clear  

...do  

...do  

Few  clouds 

Overcast 

..  do 

..  do 

...do 

Snow 

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

...do    

Few  clouds  . 

do 

Overcast 

...do  

...do  

Snow-drift . . 
Overcast  . . 

Cloudv    

...do' 

Few  clouds  . 


Light  snow  between  9  and  10  a.  m. 

Snow  began  at  2  p.  m. 

Snow. 

Snow,  less  than  J  inch. 


Thick   '"frost -smoke"   and  "fog- 

<'ater"  (fogbow)  this  a  m. 
Aurora.    ' '  Fi'ost-sraoke  "  till  6  p.  m, 
Same  as  morning  of  16th. 

Aurora. 

Between  2  and  3  p.  m.  snow  fell. 
The  l.irge  thermometers  stand 
this  evening,  one  at  5°,  the 
other  at  6°,  while  two  small 
ones  stand  at  11°.  I  must  keep 
register  of  each  separately. 

Aurora. 

Snow  began  9  a.  m.  and  ended  5 
[p.  m. 
Snow-drift. 
Snow-drift. 
Aurora.     Gale  ended  at  4  p.  m. 


Aurora. 
[No  record.] 

Aurora  not  so  tine  as  usual. 

Aurora  not  so  fine  as  usual. 


1  p.  m.,  sun-dogs. 
Aiu'ora. 

Fog.  "Fog-eater"  (fog-bow)  at 
m.  and  for  some  time  p.  ra.  Fog 
or  frost-smoke  nearly  all  day. 


Snow-drift. 

Aurora.    Ther.  lowest  +  25°. 


Snow.    Aurora. 
Snow  and  drift. 


Sun  shining  from  11  a.  m.  to  2  p.  m. 
through  tlving  diift  and  falling 
snow  up  i'.nd  i'.ii-  out  from  land. 


484 


HalVs  Meteorological  Journal 

November,  18(54. 


Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 


!  Aneroid 
!    Bar. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


5th  Enc't. 
Lat.  640  46'.3N.' 
Lons.SToU'W. 
iDo 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


6th  Enc't  one 

mile  south  of 

5th  Enc't. 

Lat.  64°45'.82f. 

Long.  87°  20'  W. 

60 


1864. 
Nov.  6,  7  a.  m. 


Do. 


7  p.  m. 

7,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

8,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

9,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

10,  7  a.m. 


/  p.  m. 

11,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

12,7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

13,7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

14,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

15,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

16,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

17,7  a.  m. 

m. 

7p.  m. 

18,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

1 19,  7  a.  m. 


-  1.5  ! 
-12 
-24 

-  6.  5  i 
-25 
-25 
-10 
-24 
-20 
-11.5 
-18.5 
-22.5 
-19.5 
-22.5 
-29.  5 
-16 
-27 
-21.5 
-14.5 

-  8 
-15.  5 
-11 
-2.5 

14.5 

20 

20 

18.75 
14 


7 

4 

-U.5 


In. 

29.22 
.28 
.34 
.39 
.43 
.34 
.63 
.70 
.87 
.01 
.04 
.04 

30.02 

29.97 
.85 
.89 
.89 
.95 

30.09 
.13 
.18 
.19 
.19 
.19 
.20 
.14 
.12 
.11 
.12 
.10 

29.98 
.93 


.75 
.78 


.83 
.86 
.92 


]SrN"W 6 

NW 3 

S"W 3 

SSW 6 

SW 4 

"WSW 4 


NW... 
WW  ... 
NW... 

W 

WWW. 
WW  ... 

w 

Calm    

N.  bvW....3 
N.  b y  W  . .  4 

N 6 

N  5 

NNW 5 


byW. 


If, 

WNE 
N.... 

N...- 
N...- 
W  ... 
W  ... 

yrsw 1 

WSW 2 

WSW 2 

SE 6 

S.  byE 3 

SE 6 


SE  7 

SE  6 

WWE .2 

N.byE 4 

N".byE 6 

N.byE 4 

NNE 6 

NNE 8 


Cloudy 

Few  clouds . 

Clear 

...do 

...do    

...do    

Few  clouds 

Clear  

- . -do  

Few  clouds 

Clear 

...do 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

...do 

Few  clouds  . 

Clear 

...do 

Few  clouds . 

...do  

...do 

...do  

Cloudy 

...do'. 

...do  

Overca.st  . . . 

...do    

Frost-smoke 
Overcast  . . 

...  do 

..  do 

...do  

...do  


do 
.do 
.do 


...do... 
Cloudy  . 
Clear  . . . . 
Overcast. 
Snow 


Remarks. 


Frost-smoke. 


Aurora. 
Aurora. 


Snow-drift. 


Frost-smoke. 
Frost-smoke. 
Frost-smoke. 


Misty. 


Snow. 
Snow. 


Snow. 
Aurora. 


Drift. 


*  JTo  sign  prefixed  in  Hall's  MSS. 

t  i'or  the  hrst  nineteen  days  of  this  month  two  records  were  kept,  the  second  of  which  follows. 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


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504 


HaWii  Meteorological  Journal. 


Remarks. 

Light  shower  of  rain  last  night. 

Sun  out  now  and  then ;  ther.  lowest  last 

night,  ;!2° ;  shower  of  rain  last  night. 
Sun  out  now  and  llien. 
Sun  out  now  and  tlien. 
Sun  out  now  and  tlien. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  27°. 

Great  refraction. 

Drizzling  I'ain. 

Drizzling  rain ;  ther.  lowest  la.9t  night,  31°. 

Sun  out. 

Snow  and  drizzling  rain ;  ther.  lowest  last 

night,  38°. 
Snow  and  drizzling  rain. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  31°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 

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22d     Encamp- 
ment; lat.  66° 
19'  N.,  long. 

85°  29'  W. 

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HaWs  Mcteoroloyical  Journal. 


505 


00 

1 

1 

Thcr.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 

Drizzling  rain. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  35°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  33°. 
8  a.  m.,  light  rain  for  1  hour. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 

From  7  to  9  a.  m.,  light  showers  of  rain. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 
1.30  p.  m.,  ther.  in  sun,  resting  on  dark- 
colored  blanket,  90°. 
Great  refraction. 

Thcr.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 
Tide  began  to  fall  3.30. 
Great  refraction. 
9.30  p.  m.,  ther.  49°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 

Tide  began  to  fall,  4.20. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 

Fog. 

Tide  began  to  fall  5.05. 

Fog ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  37° ;  thunder,  light- 
ning, and  passing  showers. 
Fog. 

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i»       t-'       »       =>^       s       d         s       2       3       ;?       s 

Locality. 

22d     Encamp- 
ment; lat.  66° 
19'  N.,  long. 
85°  29'  W. 

i                ^ 

>              c 

^                ^ 

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c 

c 

5                   C 

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) 

506 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 
July — August,  1865. 


Locality. 


Date. 


Ther.  3.     Bar. 


I  1865. 

22d     Encamp-    July  17, 6  a. 

ment;  lat.66°  1 

ly  K.,  long.  3  p. 

85°  2^  "W.        I  7  p. 

Do j  18,6a. 

I  3  p. 

!  7  p. 

Do I  19,6a. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do 


Do. 


Do- 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


3  p. 
7  p. 

20,  6  a. 

3  p. 
7  p. 

21,  6  a. 

3  p. 
7  p. 

22,  6  a. 

3  p. 
7  p. 

23,  6  a. 

3  p. 

7  p. 
24,6  a. 


3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

25,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

26,  0  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

27,  6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.m. 

7  p.m. 

28, 6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 

29,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

30,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

31,  6  a.  ni. 


Do. 


Aug. 


Do. 


Do. 


3p 

m. 

'  P 

m. 

1 

6  a. 

m. 
m. 

3p 

m. 

Vp 

m. 

2,6  a. 

m. 

m. 

3  p. 

m. 

Vp 

m. 

•A 

6  a. 

m. 

3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 


In. 
29.91 
.96 
30.03 


"Wind. 


Sky. 


Remarks. 


ISnV 5 

N 4 

NNE 1 


Cloudy I  Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 

do ; 

Pew  clouds . 


43 

53 

64 

48 

46  I 

58 

59 

46 

44 

58 

62 

47 

43 

44 

44 

42 


.30 
.35 
.36 


.20 
.16 
.15 
.10 
.00 
29.54 


.50 
.48 
.48 
.60 
.71 
.80 
.93 

30.08 
.10 
.17 
.23 
.30 
.32 
.35 
.44 
.50 
.44 
.43 
.40 
.31 
.13 
.00 
.03 
.05 
.03 
.04 
.06 
.08 
.04 
.02 
.02 

29.94 
.92 


19  I  IsTTE 1 

nist;  3 

NE ....5 

Calm , 

Calm 

Calm 

SSW 1 

SE 4 

SE  1 

SE 1 

SE 2 

NNW 4 


.33 
.40 
.55 
.56 
.54 
.52 
.50 
.43 
.37 
,1 


.24  '  NNW 6 


NXW 6 

NW 6 

NW 7 


.22     W  .  . 
.22     NW 


...3 
N 2 

]orw 3 

W 3 

SE  

SE 

SE 4 


SE 2 

S 2 

NIS'TV 5 

NIS^W 6 

NW 6 

NW 6 

KW 6 

NW 4 

Js"W 4 

NNW 3 

XNW 5 

KE 3 

E 1 

SSW 1 

SE 1 

Calm 

SSW 1 

S.SW    1 

SE 2 

NNW 1 

NNW 4 

NW 3 

KW 2 

SW   1 

SSW 2 

SSW 2 

SSW 2 

SE 3 

SE 

1 
.2 


Few  clouds  .    Ther.  lowest  last  night,  39^. 

do 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Few  clouds  .    Ther.  lowest  last  night,  40°. 

Cloudy 

— do 

do ; 

.     do Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 

Few  clouds  . 

...do 

Cloudy Fog. 

...  do Ther.  lowest  last  night,  39°. 

— do 

...do j 

Few  clouds . 


Cloudy 

"do  ..'...'. 
..do 

...do  

...do  

Overcast 

...do 


..  do 

...do    

..  do 

...do 

..  do 

Cloudy  .... 
Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

Overcast . . . 

...do  

.-  do 

Cloudy    

!!"do  .'.'".'. 
Few  clouds 

...do 

..  do 

..do 


SSW 

I  SW.. 

I  Calm 

Calm 

Calm 

N  1 

I  NW 4 

[  WNW 3 

NNE 3 

I  NNW 5 

NNW 3 

NNW 6 

NW 6 

NW 6 


Clear 

Cloudy I 

— do 

..  do 

Few  clouds  .  | 

...do ! 

...do I 

Cloudy ! 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 


Fog;  passing  showers,  thunder, 
and  lightning ;  ther.  lowest  last 
night,  39°. 

Fog;  misty. 

Fog ;  drizzling  rain. 

Fog ;  drizzling  rain. 

Fog ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  34°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  nighty  32°. 
Drizzling  rain. 
Drizzling  rain. 
Drizzling  rain. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  34°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 


Hazy. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  33°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  36°. 


Cloudy  . . 
Overcast . 
...  do  .... 


Overcast 

..do    

Few  clouds  . 

.    do 

Cloudy ' 

Overcast 

..do I 

Cloudy    I 

— do I 


Hazy. 


Fog;    misty;    ther.    lowest   last 

Fog;  misty.  [night,  ,36°. 

Fog. 

Fog. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  85°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  39°. 
Sain. 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 
August,  1865. 


507 


Locality. 


Date. 


22(1  Enc't. 
Lat.    60°  19'  N. 
iLong.  85°  29'  W. 

Do 


Do. 


Aug, 


1805. 
4,6! 


Do. 


*Oii,iournov  to 

23d  Enc't. 

"23d  Enc't. 

Lat.    66°  30'  N. 

Long.  86°   3'\V. 

Do 


Do 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


3 

7 

5,0 


3 

7 

6,6 


3 

7 
7,6 


p.  m. 
p.  in. 
a.  m. 

in. 
p.  m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
p.  m. 
a.  111. 


*3  p.  m. 
**7  p.  m. 

8,  0  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

9,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

10,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

11,  0  a.  m. 


3  p.m. 

7  p.  m. 

12,  6  a.  ra. 


3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

13,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

14,  6  a.  m. 


3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

15,  0  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

16,  6  a.  m. 


3p 

m 

Vp 

m 

17,  6  a. 

m 

m 

3p 

m 

Vp 

m 

18,  6  a. 

m 

m 

3p 

m 

Vp 

m. 

19,  6  a. 

m 

m. 

3p 

m 

Vp 

m. 

20,  6  a. 

m 

m. 

3p 

m. 

Vp 

m. 

Thor.  3, 


Bar. 


In. 

29.82 
.78 
.80 
.84 
.92 
.84 
.84 
.85 
30.00 
29.98 
.96 
.92 
.74 

.70 
.07 
.60 
.53 
.60 
.64 
.68 
.70 
.67 
.70 
.82 
.90 
.95 
30.02 
.10 
.26 

.30 
.30 

.38 

.45 

.42 
.42 
.45 
.35 
.30 
.28 
.25 
.11 

.08 
.08 
.10 
.12 
.14 
.14 
.16 
.18 
.15 
.14 
.14 
.18 
.08 
.00 
.09 
.20 
.24 
.25 
.33 
.35 
.41 
.46 
..50 
.50 
.52 
.52 
.54 


Wind. 


NISTW 6 

NNW 5 

NNW 3 

NW 4 

NW 2 

S 2 

S    3 

S 2 

"WSW 2 

SSW 2 

SSW 2 

SE 4 

S 1 

SE  3 

SE ...3 

NE 4 

NW 3 

NW 5 

N 

SE 3 

W 5 

W 5 

W 6 

W 6 

WSW 5 

SW 4 

SW 4 

SW 2 

SSE 3 


SE... 
SE... 
ESE. 
ENE 


NE 2 

E 3 

E 2 

ENE 3 

NN^E 3 

NE 4 

NE 4 

NNE 3 

ENE ,2 

SW   1 

SSW 1 

ESE 2 

SSE 2 

SSE 2 

ESE 2 

WSW 1 

W.  byS....3 

SW 3 

SSW .3 

SE 1 

E 5 

E 6 

ENE  4 

ENE 3 

ENE 2 

NE 3 

E 5 

NE 2 

NE 1 

W 1 

WNW 1 

E    1 

SW 2 

SW 3 

SW 1 


Sky. 


Cloudy  .... 

...do. 

...do  

...do  

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

— do 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

—  do 

...do 

Overcast.  - . 


Cloudy 


Cloudy 

Eew  clouds 

Cloudy 

...do. 

...do 

...do 

...do 

..  do 

...do 

...do  

Overcast . . . 

..  do 

..  do 


.do 
.do 
.do 
.do 

.do 
.do 
do 
.do 
.do 
.do 
.do 
.do 

.do 
do 
do 


Few  clouds  . 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

—  do 

...  do 

Few  clouds  . 

...do  

Overcast 

...  do 

...do 

..  do 

..  do 

...do  

...do 

...do 

...do  

Cloudy 

Few  clouds . 

Cloud  V 

Few  clouds  . 

.  do 

Cloudy 


Bomarks. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  28°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  31°. 


8  p.  m.,  rain. 

Rain ;  fog ;  ther.  lowest  last  night, 

34°. 
Fog ;  great  refraction. 
Rain. 
Rain. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  35°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  34°. 
Sprinklmg  now  and  then. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  36°. 


Rain;    ther.    lowest  last  night, 

36°. 
Rain 


Rain 
Rain 

33° 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 
Rain 

39°, 
Rain 


Fog. 
Fog. 


fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night, 

fog. 

fog. 

ebb  tide  sets  to  the  SSE. 

ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 


ther.    lowest   last   night. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  40°. 

Ther.  h)wcst  last  night,  36°. 

Raiu. 

Rain ;  tliir.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 
Fog. 


508 


HaWs  Meteor olo(jical  Journal. 


August-^September,  1865. 


Locality. 


Date. 


Ther.  3. 


Bar. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Eemarks. 


23d  Enct. 
Lat.    C6=  30'  N. 
Long.  86°  3'W. 

Do 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


24th  Enct. 
,Lat.    66°  29'  X. 
!LonK.86°18'W. 


Do. 


Do- 


Do. 


Do 

Do 

Do  

Do 

Do 

25th  Enc't. 
Lat.    06'=  30'  N. 
Lonp.8C°44'W. 

Do 


26th  Enc't,  Fort 

Hope. 
Lat.    66031'  N. 
LonK.860  56'"W. 
Do 


Do. 


1865. 

Aug.  21,  6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

22,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

23,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

24,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  ni. 

25,  6  a.  m. 

IQ. 

3  p.  ni. 
7  p.m. 

26,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

27,  0  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

28,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

29,  6  a.  ra. 


3  p.  ni. 
7  p.  ni. 

30,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

31,  6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.  m. 

7  p.m. 

Sept.  1, 6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.m. 

7  p.m. 

2,  6  a.  m. 

ra. 

3  p.  m. 

7  p.m. 

3, 6  a.  m. 


4, 6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.  m. 

7  p.m. 

5,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

6,  6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.m. 

7  p.m. 

7, 6  a.  m. 


3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 


In. 

30.57 
.57 
.61 
.65 
.62 
.58 
.46 
.48 
.34 
.22 
.10 
.20 
.12 

29.94 
.92 

30.00 
.00 
.01 
.02 
.02 
.19 
.24 
.30 
.36 
.40 
.43 
.42 
.46 
.52 
.43 
.40 
.36 
.10 

.10 
.10 
.11 
.32 
.32 
.32 
.30 
.24 
.14 
.14 
.20 
.30 
.32 
.34 
.34 
.48 
.50 
.48 
.48 
.58 


.36 
.38 
.42 
.46 


W 1 

SW 2 

SSW  1 

SSE 1 

Calm 

S 2 

SW 2 

E 1 

E 3 

E 3 

E 3 

E 1 

WNW 1 

Cahn 

SE 2 

SE(?) 1 

Calm 

8E 1 

SE 1 

NNW 5 

XNW 2 

KW 3 

XNW 5 

XXW 3 

XXW 4 

XXW 5 

X.  by  W....5 
X.  by  W....5 

W 1 

SSE 3 

S 5 

S 6 

SE 5 

SE 4 

SE 2 

XW 6 

XXW 3 

SW 3 

SSW 3 

SSW 5 

SE 1 

SE 2 

NE 4 

XE    5 

XNE 3 

SE   2 

XW 1 

NW 1 

XXW 5 

XXW 3 

SW 1 

Calm 

XXW 3 


SE 4 

SE 3 

SE 3 

SE 1 

Calm , 

SE 2 

SE 2 

SE 1 

Calm 

E 2 

E 1 

E 1 

E 1 

ESE 2 

W 2 

W 3 


Overcast 
...do  .... 
Cloudy  . . 


Cloudy 

Few  clouds 
...do  


Cloudy 

— do 

Few  clouds 

...do 

..  do 

...do 

..  do 

...do 

Cloudy  .... 

...do    

...do 

...do    

...do 

...do 

...do , 

...do 

...do , 

...do , 

...do 

...do , 

...do , 

...do  


Overcast 

...do  

...do  

Cloudy 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

do 

...  do 

Overcast 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy  

...do    

...do 

...do 

...do 

..do 


...do 

...do 

..  do 

...do 

Few  clouds 

...do  

Clear , 

Few  clouds 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

— do 

Few  clouds 
Clear 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 


Fog;  5  p.  m.,  fog-bow. 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  36°. 

Fog. 


Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  35°. 
Fog. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  34°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  33°. 
Broke  other  largo  thermometer. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 
A  little  rain. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  27°. 


Eain ;    fog ;    ther.     lowest    last 

night,  34°. 
Kaiu;  fog. 
Eain. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  33°. 


Fog. 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  36°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°.5. 
Suow. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  33°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  26°. 
Halo  round  sun  from  8  to  10. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  25°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  25°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  28°. 


HalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 

September,  1865. 


509 


Locality. 


26th  Enc't,  Fort 

Hopo. 
Lat.     6C°  31'  N. 
Lonff.  8C°56'W. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do  

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Do. 


Do 


Do. 


Do. 


Date. 


Ther.  3. 


1865. 

Sept.  8, 6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.m. 

7  p.m. 

9,  6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.  m. 

7  p.m. 

10,  6  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

11,7  p.m. 

12,  6  a.  m. 

m. 

13,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

14,  6  a.  m. 

16,  7  a.  m. 
7  p.  nk 

17,  7  a.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

18,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

19,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 

20,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

3  p.m. 

7  p.  m. 

21, 7  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

22,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

23,  6  a.  m. 


3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

24,  6  a.  m. 


3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 

25,  6  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

26,  6  a.  m, 


3  p.  m. 

7  p.m. 

27,  6  a.  m. 


3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

28,  6  a.  m. 


3  p.  m. 
7  ]).  m. 
29,  6  a.  m. 
m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 


30 

30.00 

27 

.02 

24 

.20 

30 

28 

26 

.12 

22 

.22 

"""22 

""".'24' 

20 

.23 

22 


Bar. 


In. 

30.54 
.45 
.39 
.34 

29.90 
.87 
.85 
.86 

30.04 


"Wind. 


29.90 
.94 
.97 
.98 
.92 
.90 
.88 

30.06 
.02 

29.80 


.30 
.40 
.46 
.46 

.48 
.50 
.48 
.48 
.50 
.38 


29.82 
30.00 

.20 
.28 
.33 
.50 


.51 
.30 
.21 


.04 
29.98 


30.30 
.66 


.78 

'.'eo' 


E -  1 

SE 

9 

ESE 

4 

ESE 

6 

ESE 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

..2 
.  3 
.  4 
-.4 
(> 

NW    . 

5 

NW 

N  W 

..4 
1 

SSE 

s 

sw 

sw 

s 

..3 

..4 
4 

SE 

3 

SE 

ESE 

N     .. 

..3 

-.2 

5 

W 

5 

wsw .... 
WNW.... 
w    

..5 
-.4 

NW 

6 

NW 

NW 

.  5 

5 

NW 

5 

N 

N 

..2 
4 

N 

=> 

NNW  ... 
NW 

-.2 
3 

NW 

NW 

6 

NW 

NW 

-.6 

NW 

NW  .... 

.  7 
7 

NW 

6 

NW 

NW 

NW 

N.  by  W. 
SE   

.  5 
.  5 
.  4 
.  2 
3 

SE 

4 

SE 

5 

E 

1 

NW 

NW 

NNW  .... 
N.  by  W. 
NN"\V  .... 
N 

.10 

.10 
.  8 
..8 
.5 
3 

N 

ENE  .... 
SE 

.  3 

.1 

1 

SE 

3 

SE 

SE 

..4 
4 

N.  by  W. 
NN\V  ... 
NW 

..4 

-.7 

NW 

NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 
N.  by  W. 

NW' 

NW 

10 
..5 
..4 
..4 

2 
'.'.2 

1 

SE 

E 

..1 

1 

Sky. 


Overcast . 
...do  .... 


Overcast . . . 

...do  

...do    

Few  clouds 
Cloudy    ... 

— do , 

Clear , 

Overcast . . . 

...  do 

...do  

...do  

...do 

...do 

...do  

Cloudy  . 

Overcast. . . 

....do  

Cloudy 

Overcast.  - . 
Cloudy 


Cloudy 

...  do^ 

Overcast  .. 


Overcast... 
...do 


Cloudy 


Few  clouds 

...do 

....do    

Cloudy  - .  - . 
Overcast. .. 


Kemarks. 


Cloudy  . . 
...  do.... 
....do  .... 
...do  .... 
...  do  .... 
...do  .... 
Overcast. 
...  do  .... 
...  do  .... 
...  do  .... 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  31°. 

Rain. 
Kain. 
Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 

Mist. 
Rain. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  28°. 


Rain. 
Rain. 
Ther. 
Ther. 


lowest  last  night,  25°. 
lowest  last  night,  24°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  26°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  23°.  , 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  18°. 

Snow. 


lowest  last  night,  20°. 
lowest  last  night,  18°. 


Overcast. 
Cloudy  . . 
...do.... 
...do.... 
Overcast. 
...  do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
Cloudy  . . 

do 

...do  .... 
Overcast 


Ther. 
Snow. 
Snow. 
Snow. 
Ther. 
Snow 
Snow, 
Snow. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20° 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 

Rain  and  snow. 

Rain  and  snow. 

Rain  and  snow. 

Drizzling  rain  and    snow;    flu;r. 

lowest  last  night,  26°. 
Drizzling  rain  and  snow. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  17°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  22°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow ;  thei'.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 

Drizzling  rain. 

Drizzling  rain. 

Drizzling  rain. 

Snow. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  9°. 


510 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 

September — October,  1865. 


Locality- 


Date. 


26th  Enc't,  Fort 

Ilope. 
!Lat.     06°  31'  X. 
Long.  86°  56'  W. 
Bo 


Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do- 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 


1865. 
Sept.  30,  6  i 


Oct. 


Do. 


Do. 


3 

7 
1,6 


p.  m. 
p.m. 


7 
2,7 


7 
3,7 


7 
4,7 


7 
5,7 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 


7 

6, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

p.  m. 


7 
7,7 

7 
8,7 

7 
9,7 

7 
10,7 

7 
11,7 

7 
12,7 

7 
13,7 

7 
14,7 

7 
15,7 

7 
16,7 

7 
17,7 

7 
18,7 

7 
19,7 

7 
20,7 


Ther.  3. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. ! 
p.m.  I 
a.  m. 

m.  1 
p.  m. 
a.  m. ' 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. ; 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.m. 
a.  m. 


7  p.  m. 
21,  7  a.  m. 


7  p.  m. 
22,  7  a.  m.  1 


7  p.  m.  I 


12 
20 

"is 

7 
24 
18 
20 
28 
27 
28 
34 
34 
32 

'32' 
30 
28 
26 
26 
27 
24 
24 
28 
20 
22 
27 
28 
23 
30 
24 
21 
23 
21 
23 
25 
18 

6 
18 
10 

6 
12 

9 

9 
15 
14 
31 
34 
31 
21 
23 
20 
20 
24 

6 
30  I 
30 
29  : 
26 
29 
25  ' 

20  j 

22 

19  ' 
20 

24 

22  I 

21  I 

20  ; 
20 


Bar. 


"Wind. 


Sky. 


In. 
30.58 
.64 

"  .72 
.55 
.72 
.70 
.70 
.68 
.68 
.55 
.47 
.38 
.25 
.00 

29.80 
.90 
.97 

30.07 
.00 

29.98 
.98 

30.20 
.20 
.26 
.22 
.23 
.26 
.34 
.36 
.38 
.45 
.45 
.46 
.38 
.32 
.36 
.30 
.32 
.34 
.50 
.53 
.54 
.56 
.50 
.37 

29.90 
.85 
.82 

30.05 
.12 
.15 
.10 
.07 
.02 

29.60 
.57 
.58 
.75 
.80 
.85 
.90 

.90 
.88 
.80 


30,12 
.20 
.24 


N.  by^V....2 

N 4 

N.  bvW....5 
NNW" 5 


NW 

NE 

S.  by  W 
S..  .... 

S 

S.  by  E . 

s  ..:.... 

S.  bv  W 
SSE  .... 

SE 

SE 

NW 9 

NW 9 

KNW 8 

NW 8 

IsTW 9 

NW 9 

NW 5 

NW 3 

inv 1 

SSW 2 

SSW 1 

S.  byE 2 


S 

SSE  . . . 

NNE... 

NW.... 

NNW  .. 
NW..., 
NW  ... 
KW... 

N" , 

N 

N.  byE 

N 

N  

NW... 

N 

S 

SE 


.3 
4 
.5 
.1 
.2 
2 
.6 
.6 
.5 
.1 
.1 
.3 
SSW 5 


S.  by  W 
SSTit^  .. 
NE  . . . . 

W 

W 

NNW  . 
NW... 
N\V... 

SE 

SE 

SE 8 

E 5 

E    4 

ENE    3 

NNW 8 

Nisnv  ....  10 
NITW  ....  10 
NNW  ...     10 

lonv 10 

NNW  ....  10 

NNW 10 

NNW  ....  10 
NNW  ....  10 


Overcast . 
Cloudy  . . 
...do    ... 


Overcast. 
...do.... 
..do.... 
...do  .... 
...do.... 
...do.... 
...do.... 
...do.... 
...do.... 
...do.... 


Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast. .. 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Cloudy  .   . . 

..  do    

...do 

Overcast . . . 

...do    , 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

Overcast. . . 

Cloudy 

Overcast  .. 

...  do 

...do 

...  do 

...  do 

...do 

Cloudy 

.!!.do  .'.'.'.'.. 

...  do 

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

...do    

row  clouds 
Overcast . . . 
...do 


Remarks. 


...do 

...do 

...do 

..do 

...do 

...do  

Clear 

Overcast.. 

..  do 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy  . . 
Overcast.. 
..  do 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  9°. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  5°. 
Thor-.  lowest  last  night,  17°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  27°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 

Fog;  rain. 

Earn. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  26°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  23°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  14°. 


Fog ;  ther.  lowest  Last  night,  22°. 
Fog. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 
Snow  spitting  at  times. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  19°. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 

Fog. 

Ther.  loM-est  last  night,  5°. 

Aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  5°. 

Aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  29°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 


Snow ;  t  her.  lowest  last  night,  10°. 

Aurora. 

Snow;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  4°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  26°. 


...do 
..do 
..do 

...do 
...do 
...do 
...do 
...do 


Snow  and  drift :  ther.  lowest  last 

night,  20°. 
Snow  and  drift. 
Snow  and  drift. 
Snow  and  drift;  ther.  lowest  last 

night,  20°. 
Snow  and  diift. 
Snow  and  drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  20° 
Drift. 
Drift. 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


511 


October,  1865. 


Locality. 

Date. 

Ther.  3. 

Bar. 

Wind. 

Sky. 

Kemarks. 

26th  Enc't,  Fort 

Hope. 
Lat.     66°  31'  N. 
Long.  86°  56' W. 

Do 

Do 

1865. 
Oct.  23,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

7  p.m. 

24,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

25,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

26,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

27, 7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

o 
3 
5 
4 

10 

18 
18 
18 
23 
17 
30 
29 
26 
23 
25 
20 

In. 
30.40 
.44 

.48 
.56 
.58 
.72 
.80 
.82 
.85 
.67 
.55 
.47 
.30 
.28 
.24 

NNW 11 

NNW 11 

NNW 11 

NNW 11 

NNW 11 

NNW 11 

NW 8 

NW 9 

WNW 8 

W 1 

SE 1 

N 1 

NNW 8 

NNW 9 

NNW 8 

Overcast  .. 

..  do 

....do  

...do 

...do 

..  do 

Clear 

..  do 

..-do  

Cloudy 

do 

...do 

Few  clouds  . 

...do  

....do  

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  5". 

Drift;  perhaps  snowing. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  18°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  23°. 
Drift. 

Drift;  discovered  that  ther.  No.  3 
had  air  in  the  bulb. 

Do 

512 


HalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 


i"     ^"1  :?^  ?^  ih  ^       ii 

1                            1       1           "-^      1           CS      1           C'l      1              1                                                  1 

II  &&  i'l  §>" 

7  1  7  1  77  '*" 

II 

1             1   1     T  1     '^  1     '^  1       1    -                  1 

1  1 

,,-o       l=r       IcT       lo      -^Z                 Jr=- 

loo"    ^^-=r    ^^-cT    ^ 

1     I 

in=»" 

o              of     "§;     'li     ta      o-'T        .           "S 

§;      a^  ^7  1^  0,^  -\  1    1^ 

ii  ?;^  i^  ? 

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Hairs  Meteorological  Journal. 


521 


March,  1866. 


Locality. 


Date. 


29th  Enc't. 
(Sanicas26tli.)    Mar. 
Lat.    C60  31'  N. 
Long.  86°  50' W.I 
Do  i 


Do 


Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 
Do. 
Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Do. 

Do. 
Do. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do 

Do. 

Do 
Do. 


1860. 

1,9 

I! 

7 

2,9 
3 
7 

3,9 
3 
7 

4,9 
3 
7 

.5,9 


I  I 

Ther.  5.     Bai-.  Wind. 


Sky.         i 


Remarks. 


a.  lu. 
p.  111. 
p.  111. 
a.  m. 
]).  ui. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 
p.  m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 
p.  m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 


3  p.  lu.  1 
7  p.  m.  I 

6,  9  a.  in.  I 

3  p.  m.  I 
7  p.  m.  ' 

7,  9  a.  m.  j 
3  p.  m. ! 
7  p.  m.  '■ 

8,  9  a.  m.  I 
3  p.  m.  I 
7p.  m. ! 

9,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.  in. 

7  p.  m.  I 

10,  9  a.  m.  I 

3  p.  m.  I 
7  p.  m. 

11,  9  a.  m.  ] 
3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m.  I 

12,  9  a.  m.  '• 

3  p.  m.  ' 
7  p.  m.  ; 

13,  9  a.  m.  ; 
3  p.  m.  i 
7  p.  m.  ! 

14,  9  a.  m. : 
3  p.  m.  ' 


7  p.  m. 

15,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

16,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

17,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  111. 

18,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

19,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 
7  p.  in. 

20,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  ni. 
7  p.m. 

'il,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 


—  36 

—  24 
—  36 

—  32 

—  17 

—  31 

—  14 

—  12 

—  10 

—  19 

—  22 

—  24 

—  20 

—  24 

—  24 

—  24 

—  19 

—  19 

—  20 

—  18 

—  16 

—  10 

—  6 

—  10 

—  20 

—  21 

—  22 

—  23 

—  10 

—  29 

—  30 

—  22 

—  24 

—  20 

—  12 

—  25 

—  27 

—  10 

—  30 

—  30 

—  10 


30 
19 
25 
30 
16 
34 
34 
23 
20 
6 

16 
16 

22 

25 

20 

6 

5 

5 

■  4 

■  5 
•  12 


In. 

28.00 
.04 

27.  95 

28.13 
.08 
.00 

27.  CO 
.52 
.40 
.53 
.58 
.60 
.70 

.78 
.86 
.94 


.61 

.42 
26.98 


WNW 1 

WNW 1 

WNW 1 

NNW 1 

NW 1 

NNW 1 

SSE .4 

NW  ....        3 

WNW 5 

lOfW 4 

NNW 7 

Nisrw 9 

NNW 9 


Few  clouds  . 
Clear    

....do 

....do  

...  do  

....do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast. .. 

....do 

....do  

...do 

Few  clouds 


NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 

NNW    .. 


...7  ,  Clear 

...7  j....do 

.  -  7     Few  clouds 


NNW 8  ;  Clear  . 

NNW 7  |....do  .. 

j  NNW 1    ....do  .. 

Calm ;  Cloudy 


,98 


.98 
29.74 


30.04 
.02 

29.82 
.64 


ThiT.  lowest  last  niRht,  —36°. 
Ther.  lowest  la.st  iiiulit,  —35°. 
Tlicr.  lowest  la.st  uislit,  —37°. 


'rii(>r.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 

Drill. 

DriJt. 

Diilt;     tlu-r.    lowest    List    uight, 

—  28^. 
Drift. 

Dril't ;  aurora. 
Drift ;    ther.    lowest    last    night, 

2.5°. 

Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 


do 
.do 


NW 1 

N 2 

NNW 4  j  Overcast  . 

NW 5  I. ...do 

NW 


NNW 

NNW 
NNW 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 16°. 
Snow. 
Snow. 
.8  i  Few  clouds -i  Drift;    ther.    lowest    last    night, 
1  i      -20°. 

.8  '....do    1  Drift. 

.8  I  Cloudy Drift. 

5  ;  Few  clouds.;  Ther.    lowest   last    night,    —23°; 
I      barometer  set  at  29.74. 


NE 2     Cloudy  .... 

NNE 2  ;  Clear' 

NNW 4  :  Few  clouds 

NNW 3  I  Clear 

NNW 2  '  Few  clouds 

NNW 6    ....do 


70  i  NNW 2 

70     NNW 1 

80  NNW    ....  2 

88     NNW 1 

83     NW 1 

66     NNW 1 

44     SE 5 


....do  

....do  

Clear  

Few  clouds 

Clear 

Few  clouds 
Overcast . . . 


Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

Overcast. .. 

NNW 1  I  Clear , 

Calm '  Few  clouds 

E      2  j  Clear 

NW 4 

NNW 8 

NNW 9 

NNW 10 


Few  clouds 
Overcast . . . 


.  18  I  E      10 

.18  .  ENE 7 

.34  I  ENE 10 


.54  I  ENE 10  i   

.  52  I  ENE 6     Few  clouds 

.78  j  NNW 5  I  Cloudy  .... 

.83  i  NNW 7  |....do 

.86     NNW 7     Overcast... 

30. 14     SSE Clear 

.52     SE I do 

.52  I  NW ....do 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 35°. 


Drift;    ther.    lowest   last    night, 

—  24°. 


Ther.  lowest  la.st  night, —32°. 


Ther.  lowest  la.st  night. — 3.'5°. 

Snow ;  at  7  p.  ni.  No.  3  ther.,  — 16° ; 
No.  4  ther.,  —16°;  No.  5  ther., 
—10°;  No.  9  ther.,  —12°. 

Hazy ;  really  aurora  diffused 
throughout  the  heaveus. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,— 36°. 

Fog ;  halos  about  sun. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —36°. 

Aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 38°. 

Drift. 

Drift,  snow. 

Drift,    snow : 

night,— 20°. 
Drift,  snow. 
Drift,  .snow. 
Snow  and  drift ;  tlier.  lowest  last 

night,  — 10°. 
Snow  and  drift. 
Snow  and  dritt ;  aurora. 
Drift;  ther.  lowe.st  last  night,  4°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther.  lowest  la.st  uight,  —6°. 


•V.     lowest    last  i 


522 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


March — April,  1866. 


Locality. 


Date. 


[Ther.; 

5.     I 


Bar. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Remarka. 


29th  Enc't. 

(Same  as  26th.) 

Lat.    GC°  31'     X. 

Long.  8G°  Sff    W. 


Do. 
Do 


Do 
Do. 
Do. 
Do 
Do 


Do 

30th  Enc't. 
Lat.    6G°  33'     N. 
Long.  86=  56'    W. 


Do 
Do. 
Do 
Do 


3l8t  Enc't. 
Lat.    60°  40'     N. 
Lone.  87°  4'.7W. 


Do 


Do 

32(1  Enc't. 
Lat.    66°  47'     N. 
Long.  87°16'.7W. 


Do 


Do  

33(1  Enc't. 
Lat.    CC°  56'     N. 
Long.  87°  30'    "W". 


Do 


1866. 
Mar.  22,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 
2.3,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

24,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

25,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 

26,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

27,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

28,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

29,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

30,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

31,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

Apr.  1,  9  a.  m. 
3  p  m. 
7  p.  m. 

2,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

3,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

4,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

5,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

6,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

7,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

8,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

9,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 
10,9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

11,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

12,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

13,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 


—  6 

—  4 

—  4 
2 

—  2 

—  4 

—  2 


In. 

80.54 
.50 
.47 
.36 
.08 

29.97 
.88 
.86 
.84 

30.02 
.12 
.10 
.12 
.  22 
!22 
.22 
.22 
.20 
.10 
.00 

29.90 
.84 
.57 
.50 
.34 
.42 
.60 
.70 


Nijnv 6 

NiSrW 5 

NXW 3 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

E 1 

ira"E 1 

ITNAV 1 

Calm 

Cahn 

NNW 4 

NNW 8 

NNW 6 

NNW 5 

NNW 6 

N2fW 3 

Nir\r 2 

SE 1 

SE  1 

SSE 1 

SE 3 

ESE 4 

NNW 3 

N.  by  W...  6 

NNtlT 7 

NNW 5 

NNW 8 

NNW 8 

NNW 8 

NITW 9 

NNW 8 

Nls'W 10 

KXW  ....  10 

NNW 10 

NW 1 

WW 2 

NITW 2 

KNW 1 

NNW 1 

Calm 

E 1 

WW 6 

NNW 4 

NNAY 6 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 6 

NNW 5 

WWW 2 

IsTN^W 1 

IfXW 1 

SE  2 

SE 


V: 


SE 

SE  

NNW 2 

NNW 5 

NNW 5 

NNW 4 

NNW 5 

NNW 4 

NNW 5 

NNW 4 

NNW 

NNW 8 

NNW 9 

NNW 10 


Few  clouds 
Cloudy  .... 
Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

.  - .  do 

Overcast . . . 

-.  do 

...do  

....do 

..do    

...do    

Cloudy  .... 
Overcast . . . 

...do 

Few  clouds 

...  do 

...do 

..  do 

Clear 

Few  clouds 
Cloudy  .... 
Overcast. . . 

...  do 

...do 

...do  

Cloudy  .... 

...  do    

Few  clouds 

...  do 

...do    


Overcast 

Cloudy 

. .  do 

do 

Few  clouds . 

...do 

Clear 

...do 

...do  

Overcast  . . 

Cloudy 

..do    

Few  clouds 


..do 

.     do 

Cloudy 

..  .do 

Clear 

Few  clouds 

Hazy 

Overcast  — 
...do  


...do  

...do  

Cloudy  .... 

do  ..".... 

...do  

...do  

Few  clouds 

..  do 

...do  

Clear    

...do 

Cloudy 


Drift;    ther.    lowest   last   night, 
[—12°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  -  4°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 

Fog. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 2°. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —18°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 18°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —10°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 6°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —20°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 24°. 


Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 2°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —12°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 19°. 


Snow ;   ther.    lowest    last   night, 
—16°. 


Drift;    ther.    lowest    last   night, 

—12°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 

Drift;    ther.    lowest   la.st   night, 
[-16°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 


Snow;   ther.    lowest    last   night, 

—4°. 
Snow;  fog. 
Snow;  fog. 
Fog ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4°. 


Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 16°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  -25°. 


Drift;    ther.    lowest   last   night, 

—27°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


523 


April-May,  1866. 


3yd  Enc't. 
Lat.     60°  56'     N. 
Lonsr.SToSO'    W. 


Do 

34th  Enc't. 
Lat.    67°  4'     N". 
Long.  870  41'    W. 


Do  

Do  

Do 

35th  Enc't. 
Lat.    670  14'     N. 
Long.  870  31'    W. 

Do-. 

36th  Enc't. 
Lat.    670  24'     N. 
Long.  870  41'    W, 


Do. 


Do  

37th  Enc't. 
Lat.    670  37'     ISr. 
Long.  88°   8'    "W. 


Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

**38th  Enc't. 
Lat.     67°  49'     N". 
Long.  880  25'    W. 

39th  Enc't. 
Lat.    070  55'     N. 
Long.  880  25'    W. 

*40th  Enc't. 
Lat.    68°  00'     N. 
Long.88oi9'    W. 
Do  

Do 

Do 

Do 

4l8t  Enc't,   same 
as  39th  Enc't. 
Do 

Do  

42d  Enc't.,  same 
as  38th  Enc't. 


1866. 
Apr.  14,  9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

15,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

16,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

17,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

18,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

19,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

20,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 

21,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

22,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

23,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

24,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.m. 

25,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

26,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

27,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 

28,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

29,  9  a.  m. 

"'*3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

30,  9  a.  m. 
*3  p.  m. 

7  p.m. 


May 


1,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

3,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

4,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

5,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

6,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

7,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 


2 
-4 

-  7 
3 

-  4 

-  6 
11 

4 
4 
7 
4 
14 
16 
0 

"4 

-  3 

-  4 
-10 

7 

12 

0 

12 

20 

0 

2 

1 

0 


3     Overcast 


ESE 2 

ESE 2 

NNW 4 

N 6 

N 7 

N  2 

NW 2 

NW 5 

NW 5 

wisrw 4 

NW 6 

NW 5 

NW      2 

WNW 3 

NW 3 

NW 2 

NW 4 

NNW 3 

NW 2 

NW 2 

NW 1 

Calm 

SE 2 

SE  3 

W 3 

SW .4 

SSW  3 

SSW  3 

NNW 2 

N 2 

N  1 

N 2 

N" 3 

W 3 

W 3 

SE 4 

SW 1 

NW" 2 

NW 4 

NW 4 

NW 6 

NW 8 


NKW 


NW 6 

WNW 5 

NNW 3 

N 2 

NW 1 


w... 
w ... 

E.... 
E.... 
E... 
NW. 
W.. 

w.. 
w... 


...3 
...4 
...6 
...2 
..  1 
...1 
...3 
...2 
.  2 
...5 
...6 


W     4 

"W 5 

W 6 

W 4 

S 4 

W 7 

"W 6 


..  do 

-.  do 

Eew  clouds 

Cloudy 

-do    

Few  clouds 

. .  do 

..do 

Overcast . . . 

do 

Cloudy  - . . . 
Few  clouds 

do    

Overcast . . . 
Cloudy  .... 

..  do    

Overcast . . . 


Few  clouds 

Clear 

...do 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

...do    ..  .. 

..  do : 

...do  

. .  do 

-.  do 

...do  

..-do 

...do 

-.do 

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

. .  do 

...do  

Overcast 


Cloudy 
— do  .. 


Few  clouds 


...do    

Cloudy 

Few  clouds 

-.-do 

Cloudy    ... 


Cloudy  . . 
Overcast . 


Overcast. 
..do  .... 
...do.... 
..  do.... 
Cloudy . . 

do 

...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
Overcast. 
...do  .... 
..  do  .... 
Cloudy  . . . 

..  do 

...do.... 


Snow;   ther.    lowest   last   night, 

— 10°. 
Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —21°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 12o. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  -9°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —4°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —'fi. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 12o. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 14°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  -2°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  2o. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 12°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 22°. 


Fog;  ther.  lowest lastnight,— 12°. 

Fog;  snow. 

Fog;  .snow. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  —7°. 

Drift. 

Drift ;    ther.    lowest   last   night, 

—15°. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 12°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —10°. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 


Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  27°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  14°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  12°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  12°. 

Drift,  snow. 

Drift. 


524 


HalVs  Meteorological  Joiirnal. 


May — June,  1?366. 


Locality. 


Date. 


Ther. 

i     5. 


Bar.  Wind. 


Sky. 


42(1  Enc't,  same 

as  38tli  Enc't. 

*43(1  Enct. 

Lat.     67°  40'   X. 

Long.  88=  17'  W. 

*44th  Enc't. 
Lat.     67°  32'  X. 
Long.  87°  53'  TV. 

Do 

45tli  Enc't. 
Lat.    67°  20'  N. 
Long.  87°  52'  W. 


Do 

46th  Enc't. 

Lat.    67°  8'       X. 

Long.87°41'.7W. 


Do i 

Do : 

Do , 

Do 

47tli  Enc't. 
Lat.    67°  00'  N.  | 
Long.  87°  46'  "W.  i 

*49th.  sameas3]st' 

Enc't. 
Lat.    66°  40'  X. 
Long.  87°  4'.7  W.  j 

50th,  same  as  26th 

Enc't.  ' 

Lat.    66°  31'  X.  ' 

Long.  86°  56'  W.  | 

Do  ! 

51st  Enc't.  i 
Lat.  66°  30'  N. 
Long.8G°34'.5'W.| 

Do  

i 
Do I 

Do 

Do  

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


*52d  Enc't. 
Lat.     66°  27'.7  N. 
Loug.86°2l'.7'W. 


1866. 

May    8,  9  a.  m. 

*3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

9,  9  a.  m. 

*3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

10,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

11,  9  a.  lu. 
3  p.  ra. 
7  J),  m. 

13,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

14,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

15,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

16,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

17,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

18,  9  a.  m. 

19,  9  a.m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 


22,  9  a.  m. 

*3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

23.9  a.  m. 

m. 

26,9  a.  m. 

3  p.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

27,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.m. 
7  p.  m. 

28,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

29,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

30,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

31,9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 
June  1,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

3,  9  a.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

4,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

5,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  III. 

6,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

7,  9  a.  m, 
*'6  p.  m. 

7  p.m. 


In. 


.1  W 6 

.'  W 1 

.i  SE 1 

.i  NNW 4 

.  N 5 

.1  N 7 

-1  NW 7 

.1  jSTW 5 

-  N'W 3 

.  NN'W 3 

.1  ISW 2 

.  NW 2 

.  N"VV 5 

.  NNW 7 

.  NNW 7 

-:  WKW 6 

.  ifW 4 

.  IST'^Y 2 

.;  NNW    ....  4 

.:  WX'VV 2 

.  X\\" 3 

.j  N'W 3 

.|  NXTT 4 

.!  KNW 2 

.1  N"W 4 

-!  NW 2 

-I  'SW 2 

.i  N" 4 

1  NNE 2 

-I  NE 4 

.  NE 4 


N 

X 

NW  .. 
Calm  . . 
N'W  .. 
NW  .. 
N'W  .. 
N\V  .. 
N'W  .. 
ISTW  .. 
NW  .. 
NW  .. 
NW  .. 
N'W  .. 
NW  .. 
NW  .. 
NW  .. 
N 


X 

N 

K  .... 

N  .... 

NKE 

SW.. 

SW.. 

S'W.. 

S"W... 

s"^\^. 


...3 

...1 

..  3 

..  4 

...4 

..3 

...5 


N'W 9 

IfW    8 

NW 6 

NW 6 

KW 4 

NW 5 

NW 2 

NW 3 


Cloudy 

...do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

...do  

...do  

...do  

...do 

...do 

Cloudy  . .    . . 
Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

...do 

..  do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

...do^ 

Few  clouds 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

..  do 

..  do 

-.  do 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

...do 


Remarks. 


Overcast 

...do  

Cloudv  .... 


Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Overcast. . . 

...do 

....do 

....do 

Cloudy 

.     do" 

Overcast 

Cloudy  . . .  . . 

do 

...do , 

...  do    

...do 

...do 

...  do 

Overcast 

...  do 

Cloudy 

Overcast. . . 


Cloudy  . . . 
...do  ... 
...do  ... 
Overcast. 
Cloudy.. 

do 

....do  .... 
...  do  .... 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  11°. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 

Snow. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  10°. 


Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  11°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  22°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  13°. 


Snow;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  14°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night.  —10°. 
Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  23°. 


Snow :  ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 
Snow. 
Snow. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  22°. 
Snow. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  18° 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  22°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  23°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  22°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  23°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 

Ther.  lowest  la.st  night,  28°. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  22°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  18°. 


Hall's  Meteorological  Journal. 


525 


Junk— J  uly— September,  1866. 


Locality. 


52cl  Enc't. 
Lat.  66'=27'.7N. 
Loii.86^21'.7W. 
Do 


Do. 


Do. 


Do. 


Starts  on  sur- 
vey   of   Re- 
^lulso  Bay. 
Pkice  of  51st 

Enc't. 
54tli  Enc't,  Ft. 
Hope. 

Do 

55th  Enc't. 
Lat.     06°  25'  IST. 
Long.  86^  47'  W. 

57th  Enc't. 
Lat.     06°  25'  N. 
Long.  85°  28'  W. 

60th  Enc't. 

Lat.     06°  29'  N. 

Long.  86°  12' W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do  

Do 


Date. 


1866. 
June  8,  9  a.  ni. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 
9,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

10,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

11,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 
7  p.m. 

13,  9  a.  m. 
3  p.  m. 

14,  9  a.  m. 
*3  p.  m. 

15, 10  a.  m. 


Ther. 
5. 


Bar. 


Wind. 


5i  p.  m. 

17,  7  p.  m. 

18,  5  p.  m. 


July    5, 1  p.  m. 


18,  m. 

19,  m. 

20,  9  a.  m. 

m. 

22,  9  a.  m. 

m. 

llj  p.  m. 

24, 11  a.  m. 

25,  9  a.  m. 

m. 
3  p.  m. 

26,  9  a.  m. 

m. 
midnight. 

27,  3  p.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

28,  9  a.  m. 


63d  Enc't, 

near  Ft.  Hope. 

Lat.    66°  31'  N. 

Long.  86°  56'  W. 

Do 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


7  p.  m. 

Sept.  4,  7  a.  m. 

7  p.  m. 

5,  7  a.  m. 
7  p.m. 

6,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
9  p.  m. 

7,  7  a.  ra. 

in. 
7  p.  m. 

8,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  ni. 

9,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

11,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

12,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

13,7  a.m. 


o 

In. 

30 

34 

28 



27 

35 

28 

27 

34 

30 

35 

46 

37 

"'48' 

34 

37 

36 

40 

30 

40 

NNW  .. 

...3 

NW  .... 

...4 

NW  .... 

-.2 

NW  .... 

...1 

N 

...3 

N    

..  3 

NW  .... 

.  ..1 

NW  .... 

...1 

S'W 

1 

NW  .... 

...1 

NW  .... 

..  1 

N'W  .... 

..  1 

S ;  . 

..2 

S 

...   1 

NW  .... 

.6 

NW  .... 

.  .   6 

NW  .... 

...6 

NW  .... 

...6 

NW  .... 

...3 

SE 

4 

54 


55 


NW  . .  stroni; 


54  ; 
46  : 

51  !. 

48    . 

'52'! 
50  1. 
62  \. 
50  1 


W.  very  light. 
SW  ...light. 
NW  lightair. 
NW  lightair. 
NW.  light  air. 
NW....  light. 

S light. 

S light. 

S  light. 

W light. 

W light. 

Calm 


63  ; I 

54    . .  I  Calm 

...   i S..... 


WN  W 3 

N  5 

NNW 3 


NNW 
NW  .- 
NW  .. 

NW  .. 

SE 

SE 

SB 

S 

s 

ssw.. 


7  p.  m. 


...  NNW 
...1  SE.... 
..  t  E   ..    .. 

32  i ENE 

35      '  SE  .. 

33      ,  SE . . . . 

31  I ;  NE  ... 

1  NE  . . . 

NE    .. 


Sky. 


Remarks. 


Overcast Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  250. 

Cloudy Snow. 

. .  .do I  Snow. 

. .  do Ther.  lowest  last  night,  24°. 

...do  .... 


do    

Few  clouds 

...do 

Cloudy  .... 
Few  clouds 

..  do 

..do 


Cloudy 
...do  . 
...do  .. 


Few  clouds 
...do , 


Cloudy  . . 
Overcast. 


Cloudy  . 


Clear 
...do 
...do 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  18°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  33°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  22°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  40° 


Hazy 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  50°. 


Overcast . . . .  i  Ther.  lowest  last  night,  29°. 

do j  Snow. 

Cloudy    ...  I  Ther.  lowest  last  night,  29°. 
...do    i 

do I  Ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 

do ; 

Overcast 

Few  clouds   I  Ther.  lowest  last  night,  20°. 
Cloudy    ... 
Overcast  . . 

i  Rain ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  35°. 

I  Rain. 

Rain. 


Cloudy I  Ther.  lowest  last  niglit,  24°. 

Overcast \  Snow. 

-do    j  Snow. 

I  Snow;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 

!  Snow  and  rain. 

!  Snow  an<l  rain. 

Overcast [  Ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 

!  Snow  and  rain. 

[  Snow  and  rain. 


526 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


October— No%'^MBER — December,  1866. 


Locality. 


Date. 


Ther.  5. !    Bar. 

i  I 


"Wind. 


69th  Enc't, 
near  Fort  Hope. 
Lat.    66°  31'  JSr. 
Long.  86°  56' W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


1866. 
Oct.    7, 7 

7 

8, 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do 


22, 


25, 


Do 

64th  Enc't. 

Talloon. 
Lat.    66°  37'  N. 
Long.  86°  42' W. 

Do 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do 
Do. 


28, 
Xov.  18, 
19, 
20, 
21, 
22, 


Do 

OSfh  Enc't, 
.Sbijis'  Har- 
bor Islnndfl. 

Lat.    CGO'-C  N. 

Long.  86°  6' W. 


a.  m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 
p.  VI. 
a.  m. 

m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 


p.m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


7  p.m. 


7  p.m. 


m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
'  a.  m. 


Dec.    1,7 
7 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  ra. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.m.  I 
a.  m.  I 


p.  m. 


o 

In. 

26 



28 

29 

32 

32 

32 

32 

32 



32 

i^i:: 


W 3 

SSW  5 

S 7 

S 6 

S 6 

S 4 

SSE 6 

SSE 7 

SE 6 


NW 5 

NNW 6 

NNW 6 

N 7 

N 7 

]!f 8 

NW 5 

NW 4 

NW 4 

N 3 

NW 3 

NW 2 

N 2 

N 1 

ISTTW 1 

N 6 

N 6 

N 4 

NTV 5 

NNW 6 

KXW 5 

KKW 6 

NNW 5 

NN  W 5 

oSTW 6 

NW 6 

NW 0 

NW 7 

KW 7 

ITW 7 

NKW 3 

NW 1 

NW 1 

SW 2 

S"W 2 

N"W 1 

W 3 

NW 1 

NNW 2 

NE 4 

NE 6 

N 6 

NW 6 

NTV 6 

NNW 6 

NNTV 6 

NNW 5 

NNTV 6 

WN"W 2 

WSW 1 

NNW 2 

NW 1 

NW 1 

N"W 1 

NNW 2 

NW 2 

NW 3 

Calm 

NW 1 

NW 1 

SE 3 

SE  4 

SE 3 


Sky. 


Remarks. 


Clear  .  .. 
Overcast. 
...do  .... 
...do.... 
...do  ....• 
...do  ... 
.   ..do  .... 


Cloudy 

do  . . 

...do  .. 

...do  .. 

...do  .. 

..do    . 


Cloudy 

do    

Overcast  . . 

Cloudy 

do 

Overcast- .  - 

Cloudy 

do 

-do 

Few  clouds 

...do  

...do 

Cloudy 

do 

.  do 

Eew  clouds 

...do    

Cloudy  .     . 
Few  clouds 

...  do 

...do 

...do 

Cloar  

...do 

Overcast... 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy  •  • 
Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

Overcast  . . 

...  do 

..    do 

Cloudy .... 
do 

.do 

Ovi-rcast. . . 

. .  do 

...do    

Few  clouds 
Cloudy .... 

-do    

Clear 

..do 

Few  clouds . 
Cloudy  . . .  . . 

..do    

...do    

Clear 

..  do 

...do  

Overcast 

...do  

....do 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  14°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  28°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 

Snow. 

Snow;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  16°. 

Snow  and  drift. 

Snow  and  drift. 

Snow  and  drift ;  ther.  lowest  last 

Snow  and  drift.  [night,  5°. 

Snow  and  drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  4°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 


Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4°. 
Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  6°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  0^. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 2°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  5°. 


Snow;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 5°. 
Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  4°. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  14°. 

Snow  and  drift. 

Snow  and  drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowcstlast  night,  — 5°. 

Drift. 

Diift. 

Tlier.  lowest  last  night,  —18°. 


Ther.  lowest  laat  night,  —24°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —34°. 


HalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 

December,  1866 — Jakuajry,  1867. 


527 


Locality. 


65th  Enc't, 
Ships'  Har- 
hor  Islands. 

Lat.    GG°2G'N. 

Long.  86°   C'W, 


Do.. 
Do.. 
Do  . 
Do.. 
Do  . 
Do  . 
Do  . 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


Date. 


1866. 
Dec.   2,  7  a.  m. 


22, 


24 


27, 


28, 


Jan.    1 


(  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 


7  p.m. 

7  a.  m. 


7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 


7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 
m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 


Ther.  5. 


7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 


7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 


—  24 

—  23 

—  34 

—  34 

—  32 

—  30 

—  31 

—  30 

—  31 

—  27 

—  25 

—  24 


Bar. 


In. 


Wind. 


SE. 


Sky. 


NNW  . 

NNW  . 
NNW  . 
NW  ... 
NW  ... 
WNW. 
NW... 
NW... 
NE  ... 
NE  . . . . 
NE.... 


NNW 

NW  .. 
NW.. 
NW.. 
NW  .. 
NW.. 

N  

NNW 
NNW 
N  .... 
N  ... 
NW.. 
NW.. 
NW.. 


NW 

NW. 

NW 


E 

E 

E    

NE  . . . . 
NNE.. 
NNE  . . 
NE  . .  - . 
NNE.. 
NNE.. 
NW... 
NW... 
NW  ... 
NW... 
NW.. 
NW... 
Calm   . 

N 

NE.... 
NE... 
NE  ... 
NNE.. 
NNE.. 

N 

NNW 

N 

NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NW  .. 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 
NNW 

sw... 
sw... 
sw... 


Cloudy .... 
Overcast  . . 
re%v  clouds 

...do  

...do  

Clear    

Few  clouds 

...do 

Clear    

Few  clouds 

...do 

...do  


Cloudy   . .  . 

...do 

...do  

Few  clouds 

Clear 

Few  clouds 
Overcast  . . 
..do.     .. 

...do  

...do    

Cloudy  ..  . 
Few  clouds 
Overcast. .. 
...do 


Overcast  .. 

..do 

-do 

Cloudy  -   .  . 

...do    

Few  clouds 

...do  

Cloudy  . .  . 
Few  clouds 
Cloudy    ... 

—  do    

Few  clouds 

..  do 

..  do    

Clear    

Few  clouds 

...do 

Clear 

...do  

.-  do 

...do  

Overcast  . . 
Cloudy   . .  . 

do 

Overcast  . . 
Cloudy  . . .  . 
Few  clouds 

...do    

...do  

...do  

Cloudy  . . .  . 

do 

...do  


Clear  

Few  clouds 
..  do 


Remarks. 

Snow  and  drift. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —24°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —34°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —31°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —32°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 1.5°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —26°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 20°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —12°. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlast night,  — 11°. 
Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlast  night,  — 16°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —16°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —10°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 15°. 
Ther.  lowest  la.st  night,  — 24°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —30°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —32°. 
Fog ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —15°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther .  lowest  last  night.  -20°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —26°. 


528 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


Jan'uary — February,  1867. 


Locality. 

Date. 

Ther.  5. 

Bar. 

"Wind. 

Sky. 

Remarks. 

J867. 

°            1m. 

65th       Enc't, 

Jan.  K!,  7  a.  m. 

—  25      

SW 

..4 

Few  clouds  . 

Ther.  lowest  last  niirht,  — 3P. 

Ships'   Har- 

lU. 

—  24    

WSW  .... 

2 

....do      

bor  Islands. 

7  ]).  ni. 

—  24      

SSE 

.  .2 

-    -do 

Lat.    66°26'N. 

14,  7  a.  m. 

—  35    

sw 

..1 

Clear 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —35°. 

Long.860    6'W. 

m. 

—  30      

sw 

2 

..-.do  

7  p.  m. 

-34      

sw 

9 

Few  clouds 

Do 

15,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

-36      

—  38  1   

NW 

N>;w  .... 

..1 

Clear 

...do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —36°. 

7  p.  ni. 

—  34      

NNW  .... 

-.2 

Few  clouds  - 

Do 

16,  7  a.  m. 

—  31    

NW 

5 

..  do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —31°. 

m. 

—  30      

>fW 

-  .5 

...do  

7  p.  m. 

—  27    

NW 

..4 

...do 

Do   

17,  7  a.  ni. 

—  31 

NW 

.  .0 

...do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night.  —31°. 

m. 

—  30 

NW 

.5 

...do    

7  p.  m. 

—  27 

NW 

.-4 

...do 

Do 

18,  7  a.  m. 

—  31  ;    ..    . 

WNW... 

.   1 

Clear 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 3]°. 

TO. 

—  28  I 

EJs^E 

2 

.-  do 

7  p.  m. 

19,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

'^O 

Do 

—  15 

—  4 

NNE-  .... 
SE  

.  1 

Cloudy 

..  do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —15°. 

7  p.m. 

—    3 

N 

..2 

...  do 

Do   

20,  7  a.  m. 

—    3 

NNE 

.  3 

Overcast. . . 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —3°. 

m. 

—    3 

N     

2 

Cloudy    .... 

7  p.  m. 

—  12 

NW 

-.1 

...do  

Do 

21,  7  a.  m. 

6 

NNE 

-.2 

Overcast 

Ther.  lowest  last  nicht.  —12°. 

m. 

8 

NE 

2 

Cloudv    . .  . 

7  p.  m. 

4 

NE 

.1 

....do 

Do 

22,  7  a.  m. 

5 

NE    

-  3 

Overcast  . . 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 

m. 

8 

ENE 

.  2 

....do  

7  p.m. 

13,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

4 

NE    

9 

Hazy. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 15°. 

Do 

—  14 

—  12 

NW 

NW 

2 
.'  1 

Few  clouds  . 
...do 

7  p.  m. 

—  12 

NNW  .... 

.  1 

....do 

Do 

24,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

—  12 

NW 

Calm 

.  1 

Cloudy 

....do' 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —12°. 

7  p.  m. 

0 

Calm 

Overcast  . . 

Do 

25,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

0 

NW 

NW 

-  1 

2 

do 

do    ..  .. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —3°. 

7  p.  m. 

Do...:... 

26,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

—  20 

—  25 

NW 

NW 

6 
.  6 

Cloudy 

. .  do    

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 20°. 
Drift. 

7  p.  m. 

—  30 

NW 

.  4 

...do    

Do 

27,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

—  33 

—  30 

NW      .   .. 
NNW  .... 

.  5 
.6 

Few  clouds  . 
--..do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —34°. 

7  p.m. 

28,  7  a.  m. 

26 

NNW 

S 

Hazy. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 34°. 

Do 

—  34 

N  W 

.6 

Cloudy 

m. 

—  32 

NNW  .... 

..5 

...do' 

7  p.  m. 

—  37 

NNW  .... 

.   5 

.-.-do    

Do 

29,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

—  39 

—  33 

NW 

Calm    .... 

2 

Few  clouds 
Cloudy 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —39°. 
Foj, 

7  p.  m. 

30,  7  a.  m. 

ni. 

37 

KNE 

1 

Do 

-34 
—  30 

NNE 

NE    .     .. 

.4 
.4 

Few  clouds 
..  do 

Fog;  ther.  lowest la.st  night,  — 34°. 
Fog. 

7  p.  m. 

—  34 

KE 

.4 

-..do  

Do 

31,7  a.  m. 
ra. 

—  20 

—  20 

WSW  .... 
W 

..4 
.  3 

Cloudy 

..do    

Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 34°. 
Fog. 

7  p.m. 

—  26 

W 

.   3 

Few  clouds 

Do 

Feb.    1,  7  a.  m. 

—  30 

N 

.  3 

Cloudy 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —32°. 

m. 

—  24 

NNE 

.   2 

do    

7  p.m. 

—  28 

NNE    .... 

2 

Few  clouds 

Do 

2, 7  a.  m. 

—  28 

NE 

.  2          do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 

m. 

—  23 

NE 

.  1     Clear 

7  p.  m. 

—  28 

NE 

.  2    ...do  

Do 

3,  7  a.  m. 

—  12 

S 

.  4  1  Overcast  . . 

Snow;  ther.  lowest  last  night, —28°. 

m. 

—    8 

SSE 

.  6  |....do 

Snow. 

7  p.  m. 

—    5 

SSE    .... 

6 

-.  do    

Snow. 

!        Do 

4, 7  a.  m. 

—  22 

NNAV  .... 

7 

Cloudy 

Drift ;  thi-r.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 

m. 

—  27 

NNW  .... 

..6 

do" 

Drift. 

7  p.m. 

—  33 

NNW  .... 

.  .2 

Few  clouds 

Aurora. 

Do 

5,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

—  39 

—  29 

NNW  .... 
SW 

..1 
..1 

Clear 

..  do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —39°. 

7  p.m. 

—  39 

Calm    

do 

HalVs  Meteorolofjical  Journal. 


529 


Febuuahy,  1867. 


Locality. 

Date.     ■ 

Ther.  5. 

Bar. 

Wind. 

Sky. 

Kemarks. 

65th  Enc't, 
Ships'  Har- 
bor Lslauds. 

Lat.    6GO20'N. 

Long.8G°  6'W. 

1867. 
F(^b.   6,  7  a.  m. 
m. 
7  p.  ni. 

o 

—  40 

—  34 

—  38 

In. 

NNW  .... 
NNW.... 
NNW  . . . . 

..2 
.1 
..1 

Clear  

....do  

...do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 40°. 

Beginter  kept  during  HalVs  journey  to 

IglooUk  by  Frank  Leonard  {or  Lailorf),  a  seaman. 

1 
Locality. 

Date. 

Ther.  5. 

Bar. 

Wind. 

Weather. 

Eemarks. 

65th        Enc't, 
Ships'  Har- 
bor Islands. 

Lat.    66°2G'N. 

Long.8G°  6'W. 

Do 

1867. 

Feb.   9,     a.  m. 

m. 

p.  ni. 

K),     a.  ni. 

ni. 

p.  m. 

11,  a.  ni. 

m. 
p.m. 

12,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  111. 

13,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

14,  a.  ni. 

m. 
p.  m. 

15,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

16,  a.  m. 

ni. 
p.  m. 

17,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

18,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

19,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

20,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

21,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

22,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

23,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

24,  a.  ni. 

m. 
p.  m. 

25,  a.  ni. 

m. 
p.  m. 

26,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

27,  a.  m. 

m. 
1).  m. 

28,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

0 

"—21 

—  38 

—  30 

—  30 

—  37 

—  42 

—  36 

—  42 

—  37 

—  30 

—  32 

—  32 

—  3G 

—  30 

—  24 

—  14 

—  9 

—  7 

—  14 

—  18 

—  26 

—  30 

—  34 

—  32 

—  36 

—  35 

—  34 

—  33 

—  24 

—  22 

—  22 

—  20 

—  20 

—  23 

—  20 

—  18 

—  26 

—  26 

—  20 

—  24 

—  22 

—  12 

—  13 

—  14 
2 

—  8 

—  20 

—  14 

—  20 

—  29 

—  20 

—  28 

—  30 

—  26 

—  36 

—  32 

—  30 

—  38 

In. 




SE    ...Light.. 
NW  ..Light.. 
NW  ..Licht.. 
NW  ..Light.. 
NW  ..Light.. 
NNW  Light.. 
NW  ..Licht.. 
NW  ..Liiht.. 
NW  ..Licht.. 
NE    ..Licht.. 
NE  ...Licht.. 
EN  E..  Licht.. 
NW  ..Light 
NE  ...Light.. 
NE  ...Licht.. 

E Light.. 

E    ....Light.. 
SE....Stronc 
SE....  Strong. 
NE  ...Strong. 

N Strong. 

NW  ..Gale  .. 
NW  ..Gale  .. 
NW   ..Gale   .. 

Fine 

...do    

do 

Cloudy 

Fine 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —40°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 44°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —42°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —38°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 1G°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —20°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —36°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —37°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —34°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  22°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —2G°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —30°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 14°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  30°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  36°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —38°. 

- .  do 

..  do 

..  do 

...do  

Cloudy 

...do'. 

. .  do 

Fine 

...do 

...do 

Cloudy 

do 

Stormy 

do 

..  do 

..  do 

...do 

..do 

...  .do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do. 

Do     

Do 

NW...  Fresh 
NW...  Fresh 
NW...  Fresh 
NW  ..Sfronc 
NW...  Strong. 
NW...  Strong. 
NNW  Gale   . . 
NNW  Gale   . . 
NNW  Gale   . . 
NW  ..Strong 
NW  ..Fresh.. 
NW      Fresh 

Fine 

...do  

do 

Stormy 

. .  do 

..  do 

....do  

...do 

..  do 

...do 

...do 

...do  

Do 

Do 

Do          ... 

Do        

NE    ..Fresh.. 
NE    ..Fresh.. 
NE  . .  .Fre.sh.. 
NE    ..Light.. 
SE....  Licht.. 
SE....  Light.. 
SE.... Licht.. 
SE....  Fresh.. 
SE....  Fresh.. 
SE....  Strong 
E    ...  Fresh".. 
E.byN  Fresh.. 
NW  ..Light.. 
NW      Li"ht 

Fine 

...do 

...do 

Hazy 

....do  

Thick  

-.  do 

...do  

...do  

Stormy 

Thick  

....do 

Fine 

do    

Do 

Do        

Do 

Do          

Do 

NW     Lin-ht 

...do 

NW  ..Light.. 

....do  

Do 

NW  ..Ligiit.. 
NW  ..Licht.. 
NW     Li'"ht . . 

..  do 

...do 

....do  

Do 

NW      Linht 

....do  

NW     Light . . 

....do  

NW  ..Fresh.. 

....do  

NW     Li<Tht 

.do 

NW     Light 

... .do  

1 

S.  Ex.  27- 


-34 


530 


HaWs  Meteoroloc/ical  Journal 

March,  18G7. 


Locality. 

Date. 

rher.  5. 

Bar.             Wind. 

Weather. 

Remarks. 

65th  Enc't. 
Ships'  Harbor 

Islands. 
Lat.    66°26'N. 
Long.  86°  6' 'ST. 

Do 

Do  

1867. 
Mar.  1,    a.  m. 
m. 
p.  m. 

2,  a.  ra. 

m. 
p.m. 

3,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

4,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

5,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

6,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

7,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

8,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

9,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

10,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

11,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

12,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

13,  a.m. 

m. 
p.m. 

14,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

15,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

16,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

17,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

18,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

19,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

20,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

21,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

22,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

23,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.m. 

24,  a.  m. 

m. 
p.  m. 

o 

—  32 

—  24 

—  32 

—  22 

—  18 

—  18 

—  22 

—  22 

—  32 

—  28 

—  26 

—  26 

—  22 

—  18 

—  32 

—  32 

—  22 

—  24 

—  26 

—  16 

—  32 

—  22 

—  16 

—  16 

—  10 

—  5 

—  23 

—  22 

—  12 

—  29 

—  18 

—  14 

—  22 

—  12 

—  8 
5 
2 
0 

-t 

5 

3 

16 

28 

20 

4 

5 

—  3 
2 
2 

—  14 

—  10 

—  6 

—  16 

—  2 
2 

—  10 

—  8 
0 

—  14 

—  12 

0 

—  2 
3 
8 
8 

12 
2 

—  6 

—  2 
8 

—  18 

In, 

W    ..  Light.. 
NE  ...Liaht.. 
NE       Li'^ht 

Fine 

...  do  

...do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —42°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  32°. 
Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  —24°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —33°. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —27°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —38°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  30°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  36°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  18°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 34°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  36°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  23°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —2°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 12°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowestlast  night,  —  5°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  ^26°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —19°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —20°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —24°. 

Drift;  ther. lowest lastnight,— 12°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  8°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,— 8°. 

SE.... Light. - 
NE  ...Light.. 
NE  ...Light-. 
NE       Fresh 

Cloudv 

..  do'. 

Thick  

....do  

N   ...  Lisht.. 
NNW.Strong- 
NW  ..Fresh.. 
NW  -.Fresh.. 
NW  ..Fresh.. 
NNE    Light.. 
ENE..  Light.. 
NE  ...Light.. 
NW  ..Light-. 
NW  ..Light.. 
NW  ..Light.. 
NE    ..Light-. 
NE  . .  -Light  - . 
NE       Liffht 

Cloadv 

Thick 

...do  

...do    

...do  

Cloudy 

Fine 

...  do 

...do  

-.do 

...  do 

..do 

....do 

....do  

Do 

Do 

Do      

Do 

NE  ...Strong 
NE  ...  Strong - 
NE  ...Strong. 
NE... Light.. 
NE. --Light -- 
NW     Light 

Stormy 

do  ". 

..-.do  

Thick 

Fine 

....do    

Do 

Do 

Do      

NW. -Light -- 
NW     Light 

..  do 

...do  

NW..  Light -- 
NE  -..Fresh.. 
NE  ...Fresh.. 
NW  ..Fresh.. 
NE...Gale... 
NE       Galo 

...do  

Thick 

Cloudy 

Thick 

Stormy 

do 

Do      

Do 

NE    ..Gale 

....do  

E Fresh. . 

E Strong. 

E Strong. 

NE  .--Fresh.. 
NE       Fresh. . 

Fine 

Thick 

Stormy 

Clondv  .... 
-...do  

Ds      ....  . 

Do 

N Strong. 

NE  .--Strong. 
NE  ...Strong. 
NE  ...Strong. 
S    ....Light.. 
SW   ..Light.. 

Stormy 

do 

....do  

....do  

Fme 

....do  

Do 

Do 

NW  . -Light -- 
SW.  . -Light. - 

Cloudy  .... 
do 

Do 

SW       Fresh.. 

....do  

NW  --Light.. 
N~W  ..Light.. 

Fine 

...do  

Do 

NW  -.Light-. 

...do 

NW     Light 

..do 

N....  Light.. 

....do  

Do      

N Light.. 

N Fresh  . 

NW  ..Light.. 

....do  

....do  

....do  

Do 

NW      Lifht. 

....do 

J^rW  ..Light.. 
NE  ...Light.. 
SW       Light. 

..-.do 

....do 

....do 

Do 

W  ...Light.. 
NE  ...Fresh  . 
NE  ...Fresh  . 

E Fresh  . 

E Strong. 

SE Strong. 

SW... Fresh  . 

S Light.. 

Calm 

Cloudy 

Thick 

...do 

....do  

Stormy  ...".. 
do 

Fine 

....do  

...do  

Do 

Do 

NW  ..Light.. 

....do 

UalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 

February — March — ^Vpril,  1867. 


531 


Locality. 


Date. 


Ther.  5. 


Bar. 


"Wind. 


"Weather. 


Semarks. 


65th  Enc't. 
Ships'  Harbor 

Islands. 
Lat.    660  26'N. 
Long.  86°  6'W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


1867. 
Mar.  25,    a.  m. 


p.  in. 
26,    a.  m. 


p.  m. 
27,     a.  m. 


28,    a.  m. 


p.  m. 
29,    a.  m. 


p.  m. 
30,     a.  m. 


p.  m. 
31,     a.  m. 


p.  m. 
Apr.   1,    a.  m. 


p.  m. 
2,     a.  m. 


4,    a.  m. 


p.  m. 
5,    a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


—  4 

—  3 

—  22 

—  12 


In. 


p.  m. 


S"W.. 
Calm 
SE... 
SE... 
SB... 

S 

NE  .. 
NE  . 
SE  . . . 
SE... 
E  ... 
NE  .. 
E  .... 
E  ... 
SE... 
SE... 
SE... 
E  .... 
SE  . 
E  ... 
NE  .. 
NE  .. 
N.... 
N"W  . 
NW  . 
NE  .. 
N"W  . 
]Sr"W  . 
WW  . 
N"W  . 
NW  . 
NW  . 
N"W  . 
NW  . 


.  Light . 


.Light. 
.Light., 
-Light. 
.Light.. 
Light.. 
.Light.. 
Fresh  . 
.Fresh  . 
.  Strong 
.Fi-esh  . 
Light.. 
Strong. 
-Fresh  - 
.  Fi-esh  . 
-Strong. 
Strong 
Fresh  - 
.Light.. 
-Light.. 
-Light.. 
Light.. 
Strong. 
Gale  .- 
Light.. 
.  G-ale . .  - 
.  Gale . . . 
.Fresh  . 
-Fresh  - 
-Light.. 
-Light.. 
-Light.. 
Light.. 


Fine . . . 
..-do  .. 
. . .  .do  - . 
-..-do  .. 
- .  do  -  . 
Thick  . 
Fine  . . . 
...do  -. 
Thick  . 
. .  do  . . 
Stormy 
Thick  . 
Fine  . . . 
Stormy 

do  - . 
Thick  . 

do  ... 
Stoimy 
Thick  .. 
...do  . 
...do  ... 
...do  -.. 
-.  do  . 
Stormy 

Cloudy  . 
Stormy 
..-do    .. 

Fine 

...do  ... 
...do  .. 
...do  .. 
..do.. 
..do... 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —9°. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 6°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  2°. 

Thei'.  lowest  last  night,  10°. 
Drift. 

Snow;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  4°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  5°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 2°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 18°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —24°. 


Hall's  observations  on  sledge  journey  to  I(i-loo-lik. 


Locality. 

Date. 

Ther.  5. 

Bar. 

"Wind. 

Sky. 

Remarks. 

1867. 

0 

In. 

1st  Igloo. 

Feb.    7,  7  a.  m. 

—  41 

NN"W  .... 

..1 

Clear    

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 41°. 

Lat.    66°35'N. 

m. 

—  37 

NN"W  .... 

..1 

Few  clouds 

Long.86°(?)"W. 

7  p.m. 

—  45 

Calm 

Clear 

Do  

38 

NNW 

1 

Cloudy  ... 
Few  clouds  . 

m. 

—  34 

SE  

.-3 

7  p.  m. 

—  36 

Calm 

do 

Do  

9,  7  a.  m. 
m. 

34 

NW 

2 

Clear 

—  36 

NE 

.  2 

-..-do 

7  p.m. 

—  42 

NN"W  .... 

..1 

do 

2d  Igloo. 

10,  7  a.  m. 

—  42 

Calm 

Few  clouds 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 44°. 

m. 

—  36 

NE 

.   2 

Clear  ..... 

7  p.m. 

—  37 

NE 

.2 

..  do 

3d  Igloo. 

11,  7  «.  m. 

—  44 

S"W 

.-1 

-..  do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 44°. 

Ross  Bay. 

m. 

—  38 

N"W 

..2 

-.  do 

7  p.m. 

—  48 

E 

..] 

...  do  

4th  Igloo. 

12,  7  a.  m. 

—  47 

E 

.  1 

Cloudy    ... 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  liist night,  —50°. 

Near  Neebar- 

m. 

—  30 

E 

.   1 

...do 

Fog. 

bic  Cr. 

7  p.m. 

—  28 

E    

-.2 

.---do  

Fog. 

5th  Igloo. 

13,  7  a.  m. 

—  34 

N"W 

.-2 

Clear 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —34°. 

m. 

—  35 

NW 

.  1 

....do  

7  p.m. 

—  40 

NW 

.  1 

.--  do 

6th  Igloo. 

14,  7  a.  m. 

—  40 

NE 

-.1 

Cloudy 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 47°. 

m. 

—  30 

NE 

.-2 

...do 

Fog. 

7  p.m. 

—  27 

SE 

.  3 

- .  do 

Fog. 

Do 

15, 7  a.  m. 

—  16 

NE 

..7 

Overcast 

Snow  and  drift ;  ther.  lowest  last 
night,  —27°. 

m. 

—  15 

NE 

..8 

Cloudy 

Snow  and  drift. 

7  p.m. 

—  18 

NNE 

.  7 

....do. 

Snow  and  drift. 

532 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


Febkuauy — March,  1867. 


Locality. 

Date. 

rher.  5. 

Bar. 

"Wind. 

Sky. 

Bemarks. 

6th  Igloo. 

1867. 
Feb.  10,  7  a.  ni. 
m. 
7  p.  m. 

17,  7  a.  m. 

ni. 
7  p.  m. 

18,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  111. 

19,  7  a.  ni. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

20,7  a.  111. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

21,  7  a.  m. 

ni. 
7  p.  m. 

22,  7  a.  m. 

ni. 

7  p.  ni. 

23, 7  a.  ni. 

Ul. 

7  p.m. 

24,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

25,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

26,  m. 
*27,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

28, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

Mar.   1,7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

2,  7  a.  lu. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

3,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

4,7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

0,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

C,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

7,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

8,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

9,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

10,7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

11,  7  a.  m. 
7  p.m. 

12,  7  11.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

o 

—  23 

—  20 

—  24 

—  32 

—  32 

—  42 

—  34 

—  28 

—  23 

—  21 

—  12 

—  23 

—  14 

—  10 

—  18 

—  37 

—  13 

—  32 

—  34 

—  18 

—  36 

—  30 

—  28 

—  26 

—  6 

—  3 

—  5 
3 

10 

—  2 

—  8 

—  36 

—  34 

—  38 

—  34 

—  30 

—  33 

—  40 

—  30 

—  43 

—  20 

—  17 

—  23 

—  29 

—  24 

—  36 

—  36 

—  33 

—  37 

—  41 

—  33 

—  45 

—  45 

—  39 

—  42 

—  38 

—  31 

—  36 

—  36 

—  28 

—  20 

—  15 

—  4 

—  13 

—  20 

In. 

N 

N 

W 

N 

KNW  .... 
IS^NW  .... 
NW 

:n' w 

xw 

]S'E 

ISIE 

>;e 

NE 

..9 
.10 
.  .5 
.1 
..4 
.  2 
..7 
.6 
.  6 
.8 
..7 
.  .5 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,- 23°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —32°. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlastnight.— 46°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlastnight,— 23°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 23°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —37°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —34°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —30°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —26°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —16°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —40°. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,- 38°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  40°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  32°.          j 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlastnight,  — 36o.i 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  41°.         1 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,— 48°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  -46°. 

Ther.  lowest  List  night,  —  42°. 

Hazy. 

Hazy. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlastnight,- 21°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlastnight,- 31°. 
Snow  and  drift. 
Snow  and  drift. 

7th  Igloo. 
HfearPingriar- 
kuilt. 
Do  

Clear  

...do  

...  do  

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

. .  do 

...do 

...do 

....do 

...  do 

..  do 

....do 

Overcast. .. 

Few  clouds 

Clear  

...do  

Few  clouds 
...do    

Clear    

Few  clouds 

Cloudy  .... 

. .  do 

Overcast 

Cloudy  .... 

...do" 

...do    

...do  

..  do 

...do    

Do 

8th  Igloo. 

9th  Igloo. 
Oosooarku. 

10th  Igloo. 

N 

IvNW  ... 
KNW  ... 

NW  .... 

NW 

NW 

K  W 

KW 

.4 

..5 

"..1 
.3 
.  1 
..3 

9 

11th  Igloo. 
N'rIngnnktoo. 

12th  Igloo. 
N'rOogUtlsle. 

]3th  Igloo. 

14th  laloo. 
IJ'rPinaitkalik 
*15th  igloo. 
Ig-loo-lik. 
Do 

NW 

NW 

S 

E 

E 

E 

Calm  .... 

NW 

NW 

.1 

.4 

.  4 
.  .5 

.   7 
..8 

'.  1 

..1 

_ 

NW 

NW 

NW 

ifNW  ... 

NW 

NW 

XW 

NW 

KNW  ... 

s 

s    

s    

N  

NNW  ... 

..4 

.  3 

..6 

.-7 

.  3 

-.1 

...1 

...2 

...3 

..4 

...3 

...3 

. .   5 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

P\'W  clouds 

Cloudy  ... 

...do    

Few  clouds 

..  do 

..  do 

..  do 

Cloudy  .... 
do    

..  do 

...do  

....do  

Few  clouds 

Cloudv 

do". 

Few  clouds  . 
....do  

Clear 

Few  clouds 

...do  

...do  

....do  

..  do 

...do 

...do 

Clear 

Do 

Do 

Do    

Do 

KW 

7 

Do 

NW 

NW 

KNW  ... 
NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 

K 

NN"W  ... 

NW 

Calm.... 

NW 

NW 

NW 

E 

E 

E 

E 

E 

N 

NNW  ... 

^^T■w" . . . 

Calm 

NW 

E 

. . .  5 
...3 
...3 
...1 
2 
'.'.  2 
...3 

.'.'.2 
...1 
...1 
...3 
..  5 
...6 
...4 
2 
.'.'  1 

'.'..\ 

...2 

16th  Igloo. 
Near  Igloolik. 

Do  

Do 

Do 

Cloudy"!".'.' 

...do 

..do 

Few  clouds  . 
Cloudy  .... 
Few  clouds  . 

...do  

Cloudy 

Overcast... 

17th  Igloo. 
Tem  Isl. 

18th,  same  as 
10th  Igloo. 
Do 

"ll'so 

—  15 
0 
5 

E    

ESE 

...8 
...8 

HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 

March — April — May,  1867. 


533 


Locality. 


Date. 


I  Ther.  5. 


I8th  IrIoo  same 
I    as  IGth. 


Do 
Do 


Ist  Igloo  of  re- 
turn, nearlg- 
loolik. 
Do  


2d  Igloo  of  re- 
Turu. 

3d  Igloo  of  re- 
turn, onlfew 
Lake. 

4th  Igloo  of 
return. 

5th  Igloo  of 
return,  west 
of  Amitoke. 

6th  Igloo  of 
return,  same 
as  9th  of  out- 
wa'djoumey, 
Oosooarku. 

7th  Igloo  of 
return. 

8th  Igloo  of 
return. 

9th  Igloo  of  re- 
turn, n'r  Pin- 
euarku  Mt. 

10th  Igloo  of 
return. 

11th  Igloo  of 
return,  near 
Lyon's  Inlet. 

Ship.^'  Harbor 
Islands. 

Lat.    6«o2G'K. 

Long. 86°   6'W 


1867. 

Mar.  13,  7  a.  m.  I 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

14,  7  p.  m. 

l^,  7  a.  ra.  I 

m. 

7  p.  m.  I 

16,  7  a.  m. ! 

m.  j 

7  p.m.  I 

17, 7  a.  ra. ! 


m 


Do 


7  p.  m.  I 

18,  7  a.  m. 

m.  ] 

7  p.  m. 

19, 7  a.  m.  I 

lu. 

7  p.m. 

20,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

21,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

22,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

23,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

24,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

25,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

26,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

27,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

28,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

Apr.24,9.30a.m 

m, 

9.30p.m 

25,9.30  a.m. 

m 

26,9.30  a.m 


let  Igloo,  Fort    May   1,  7  a.  m. 
Hope. 


2d  Igloo. 
Christie  Lake. 
Do 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


3, 7  a.  m. 


3d  Isloo. 
Mile.s  Lake 


Do 


6th  Igloo. 
Near    Cape 
Weynton. 
Do 


7 
4,7 


5,7 

8,7 


7 
9,7 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 
a.  m. 


7  Pi  m. 


Bar. 


10 
8 

—  2 
10 
10 

n 

18 
16 
20 
7 
4 
19 
8 

—  10 

—  6 

—  16 

—  16 

—  10 

—  12 

—  15 

—  1 

—  10 

—  12 

4 
0 

—  20 

4 

—  4 
5 

10 

—  1 

—  7 
6 

—  10 

—  18 

—  14 

—  17 

—  28 

—  4 

—  19 

—  23 

—  5 

—  26 

—  12 

—  5 
2 

—  3 
0 

—  10 
16 

0 
0 


4 
10 

1 
16 
16 
13 
16 
17 
12 
14 
15 
15 
—  24? 
18 
18 
20 
22 
23 
22 


In. 


"Wind. 


.9 


SE... 
SE... 

Calm 

NE 5 

E 7 

E 6 

SE  5 

SE 5 

SE 5 

Calm 

NW 1 

Calm 

SW 1 

NW 5 

NW 6 

NW 1 

N"W 2 

NW 6 

NW 4 

NW 3 

NW 5 

NW 5 

NW 1 

SW 3 

SW 2 

NW .1 

S 2 

N 5 

NE 5 

NE 5 

SW 6 

SE 3 

SE 2 

SW 2 

SW 2 

W 6 

W 1 

SW 2 

WSW 1 

SSW 2 

Calm 

W 1 

SW 1 

NE 5 

NE 7 

NE 9 

NNE    4 

NNE 3 

NNE 7 

E 3 

NE 3 

NE 2 

On  journey  to  Cape  Weynton. 

SSE 6 

SSE 6 

SSE 5 

SSE 5 

SSE .5 

NW ...7 

AVNW 7 

WNW 2 

WNW 6 

WNW 6 

NW 2 

NW 1 


Sky. 


Remarks. 


Cloudy 

Overcast 

...do  

...do  

..do 

Cloudy  . 

Overcast.... 
Few  clouds  . 

...do 

Cloudy . 

Overcast  . . . 
Few  clouds 

Clear 

..  do 

..do 

...do  

...do  

...do 

Few  clouds  . 

Clear 

Few  clouds . 

.-do 

...do  

...do 

Cloudy . 

..  do 

Overcast  . . 

...do  

Cloudy .... 

Overcast 

...do 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds 

...do  

...do 

...do  

...do  

Overcast  . . 

Clear 

-.  do 

Few  clouds 
Overcast . . . 


Cloudy . 
do  .. 


SE  - 
SE.. 
SE  . 

SSE, 
SSE. 
SSE. 


Cloudy  .  . . . 

do 

. . .  .do 

Overcast. . . 

Cloudy  .  . . . 

Overcast. . . 
....do  


Cloudy  . 

Few  clouds . 

...do  

Clear  

Few  clouds 

Overcast 

Cloudy  .... 

Overcast 

..do 

Cloudy  .  — 
Overcast. . . 


Snow  and  drift ;  ther.  lowest  last 
Snow  and  drift.  [night,  5°. 


Snow  and  drift. 
Snow  and  drift. 


Tlier.  lowest  last  night,  16" 
Ther.  h)we8t  last  night,  —  ~' 


Ther.  lowest  la.st  night,  — 10°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —10='. 
Drift. 


Ther.  lowest  night,  —20°. 

Ther.  lowest  night,  —24°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night, — 4°. 

Snow. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  niglit,  — 11°, 
Snow. 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 20°. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  -30°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 


Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night, — 26°, 

Snow  and  drift. 

Snow  and  drift. 

Hazy;  ther.  lowest  last  night, — 12°, 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 12°. 
Hazy;  ther.  lowest  last  night, — 10° 


Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night, — 5°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 10°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Snow. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  12°. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last,  — 10°. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  18°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Snow  and  drift ;  ther.  lowest  last 

Snow  and  drift.  [night,  22°. 

Snow  and  drift. 


534 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 

May,  1867— April,  18G8. 


Locality. 

Date. 

Ther.  5.     Bar. 

Wind. 

Sky. 

Remarks. 

1867. 

o 

In. 

eth  Igloo. 

May  10, 7  a.  m. 

28 

SSE 

..5 

Overcast 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  2.8°. 

Near  Capo 

m. 

30 

SSE 

..4 

....do 

Wevnton. 

7  p.m. 

28 

SSE 

..o 

...do  

1st  Igloo  of  re- 

11, 7  p.  m. 

23 

sw 

-.1 

Few  clouds  . 

turn. 

Enc't  Xo.  120. 

July  15, 7  a.  m. 

42 

SE 

.  3 

Cloudy.  ..:. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 

Ships'  Harbor 

m. 

50 

E 

.2 

....do  

Islands. 

7  p.m. 

45 

E 

..2 

....do  

Fog. 

Lat.    6G°26'N. 

16,  7  a.  m. 

40 

E 

.4 

Overcast 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  38°. 

Long.8G°   6'W. 

m. 

55 

E 

.1 

Cloudy 

7  p.  m. 

43 

SE 

.3 

...do. 

Do  

17,  7  a.  m. 

42 

SE 

..4 

...  do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  41°. 

m. 

50 

SE 

.1 

...do  

7  p.m. 

42 

E 

2 

Overcast 

Do    

18,  7  a.  m. 

41 

E 

'>, 

....do 

Rain ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  40°. 
Rain. 

m. 

42 

ESE 

.3 

....do  

7  p.  ni. 

40 

SE 

.2 

...do  

Rahi. 

Do 

19,  7  a.  m. 

42 

W 

1 

...do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  41°. 

m. 

48 

N.  by  W  . . 

.1 

....do 

7  p.  lu. 

42 

N.  by  W  . . 

3 

...do  

Do 

20,  7  a.  m. 

48 

XE 

.2 

Cloudy 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  41°. 

m. 

55 

WSW  .... 

.1 

....do  

7  p.m. 

50 

wsw .... 

.1 

...do  

Do 

21, 7  a.  m. 
m. 

41 
52 

w 

ssw 

.1 

.1 

...do  

....do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  40°. 

7  p.m. 

46 

w 

.1 

...do  

Do 

22,  7  a.  m. 

51 

NW 

.2 

Few  clouds  . 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  43°. 

m. 

52 

NW    

.1 

....do 

7  p.m. 

46 

NW 

.1 

Clear 

Do 

23,  7  a.  m. 

46 

NNW 

1 

Cloudy 

Clear 

m. 

48 

NW 

.4 

7  p.m. 
24  7  a.  m 

42 

NW 

9 

do 

Do 

47 

NW 

n 

m. 

49 

NW 

.5 

Few  clouds . 

7  p.m. 

42 

NNW 

.6 

Cloudy 

Do 

25,  7  a.  m. 

45 

NW 

5 

....do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  42°. 

m. 

50 

NNW 

5 

Few  clouds  . 

7  p.m. 

47 

NNW 

.6 

....do  

Do 

26,  7  a.  m. 

47 

NNW 

.0 

Cloudy 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  44°. 

m. 

56 

NNW 

.6 

....do 

7  p.m. 

46 

NNW 

.0 

....do  

Do 

27,  7  a.  m. 

46 

Calm 

....do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  42°- 

m. 
7  p.m. 

53 
43 

Clear 

Cloudy 

NW 

2 

Do  

28,  7  a.  m. 

42 

NW 

.4 

Overcast 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  40°. 

m. 

51 

NW 

.3 

..-.do  

7  p.  m. 

45 

Calm 

Rain. 

Do  

29,  7  a.  m. 

43 

NW 

.3 

Cloudy 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  37°. 

m. 

54 

NW 

.4 

....do 

7  p.m. 

48 



NW 

.3 

....do  

Do 

30, 7  a.  m. 
m. 

43 

NW 

1 

...  do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  35°. 

50 

SW 

.1 

...  do 

7  p.m. 

50 

Calm 

....do  

Rain. 

Do 

31, 7  a.  m. 

41 

NNW 

.5 

....do 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32^. 

m. 

48 

NNW 

.6 

....do 

7  p.m. 

44 

NW 

.6 

...do  

Do 

Aug.   1,  7  a.  m. 

44    

NW 

.1 

....do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  34°. 

On  slcdge-jouniey  to  Fury 

and  Rccia  Str 

%it. 

1868. 

7th  Igloo. 
Lake  Nappoo. 

Mar.  30,  7  a.  m. 

—  14 

NW 

.1 

Few  clouds  . 

m. 

—    8 

NW 

.7 

....do 

Drift. 

7  p.m. 

—  10 

NW 

.7 

....do  

Drift. 

8th  Igloo. 

31,  7  a.  m. 

—  11 

NW 

.1 

....do  

m. 

+    4 

NW 

.2 

....do 

7  p.  m. 

—    8 

NW 

.1 

...do  

9th  Igloo. 
11th  Igloo, 

Apr.  1,  7  a.  m. 

—    8 

NW 

.5 

Cloudy 

4,  7  a.  m. 

—  10 

NW 

.1 

Clear 

N.  endofAmi- 

m. 

—  10 

NW 

.3 

...do  

toke. 

7  p.m. 

—  15 

NW 

.2 

...do  

l'2th  Igloo. 

5,  7  a.  m. 
7  p.m. 

_    7 

do 

—    8 

NNW 

.1 

...do 

HalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 

ApKII/— OCTOBEU,  186B. 


535 


Locality. 


13th  Igloo. 

Near  N.  Ooglit 

Island. 

14th  Igloo. 
Ooglit  Islands. 
Lat.  680  58'.9X. 
Long.  80°  40'  W 

5th  Igloo, 
Brevoort  River. 
Lat.     69°  42'  N. 
Long.  85°       W 

6th  Igloo, 
Encampment 

Bav. 
Lat.690  47'.5N. 
Long.  85°  15' W. 
Enc't  No.  183,' 
Low-tide  Enc't 
Lat.  66°  29'.  4  N. 
Do 


Date. 


Do. 


Do. 


Do 

Enc't  No.  186, 
Talloon  Enc't. 
Lat.  660  37'N. 
Long.  86°  42' W. 


Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 


Apr.  6,         nx. 

7,  7  a.  m. 

20,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

21,  9  a.  m. 


Aug.  27,  7  a.  m. 
28, 
29, 
30, 


7  j(.  m. 

,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

p.  m. 

,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

,  7  a.  m. 


31, 
Oct.    3, 


7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 


Ther.  5. 


Bar. 


In. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


"WNW 4     Clear 


Hemarks. 


Cabn 

SW 1 


NNW 6 

NNW 6 

N 6 

NW 2 

NW 5 

NW 3 

NW 4 

NNW 5 

NNW 3 

NW 5 

NW 4 

NW 2 

NW 1 

Calm 

NNW 1 

W 3 

NNW 4 

NNW .6 

NNW 7 

E 5 

NE 5 

N 3 

NW 2 

NW 2 

NW 2 

NNW 1 

NNW 2 

NW 3 

NNW 2 

NNW 6 

NNW 6 

NNW 2 

NNW 2 

NW 1 

N 1 

NE 3 

NNW 2 

NW 6 

NW 5 

NW 5 

E 1 

E 4 

E   4 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 6 

NNW 3 

NNW 7 

Nisrw 7 

NNW 5 


Cloudy  . 
...do    . 


Few  clouds 

...do 

Cloudy...  . 

. . .  do 

...do 

...do  

...do 

Few  clouds 

Clear  

Few  clouds 

Clear  

Cloudy  .... 


Cloudy  .. .  ., 

....do    

....do 

....do 

....do 

...do 

Few  clouds  , 
Overcast. . . 

...do , 

...  do , 

Cloudy  . . .  . , 

Overcast 

.-..do  

Cloudy 

...do'. 

..do 

Few  clouds  , 

Clear  

....do 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Clear  

Overcast — 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

-.  do 

Cloudy 

do 

...do 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

Clear 

...do 


Hazy. 
Hazy. 


Snow.  Left  tlioriuoineter  on  an 
island  near  t  hi'  western  entrance 
to  Fury  and  llccla  Straits. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  34°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  32°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  30°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  31°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  36°. 
Fog:  ther.  lowest  last  nieht,  4°. 
Fo|. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  7°. 


Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  13°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 6°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  riight,  — 6°. 

Aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  10°. 

Aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 3°. 


Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  0". 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4° . 

Drift. 

Aurora. 


"■The  numbers  for  Encampments  beyond  No.  65  are  those  given  in  the  table  which  closes  these  oljBervations. 


536 


Hairs  Meteorological  Journal. 


October — Novejiber,  1868. 


Locality. 


Enc't  No.  186. 
Talloon  Enct. 
Lat.  GG0  37'X. 
Lonii.SG^42'W. 
Enc't  Xo.  187. 
Lake  Enc't. 
Lat.  66°  33'.  5  N. 
Long.860  34' W. 


Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 
Do 


Enc't  No.  188. 
Lat.    C6°31'N. 
Long.8G2  7'.5\V. 
Enc't  No.  180. 
Lat.    66°  35'  N. 
Lon!r.85°3G'W. 
Enc't  No.  190. 
Lat.    GG°  47'  N. 
Loutr.  8.')^  25'  W. 
Enc't  No.  101. 
Lat.    GG^58'X. 
Loujr.85°19''SV. 
Enc't  No.  192. 
Lat.  GG=58'.5N. 
LonK.85^23'W. 
Do 


Date. 


Enc't  No.  193. 
Lat.    CC'59'N. ' 
Loug.  85^      W.  I 
Do 


Enc't  No.  194.  I 
Lat.  07°  1'  N. , 
LonK.84=52'W.I 

Enct  No.  19.5.  , 
Lat.  GG^5G'.r,N. 
Lon<_'.84'-'15'W. 

Enc't  No.  100. 
Lat.  07°  N. 
Long.84'^52'W.| 


1868. 

Oct.  27,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

31,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

Nov.  1,  7,  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

2,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

3,  7  a.  m. 

ra. 
7  p.  ni. 

4,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

5,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
G,  7  a.  m. 
m. 
7  p.m. 
7,  7  a.  m.  j 
m. 
7  p.  m. 
8,7  a.  m. 
m.  I 
7  p.  m. ! 
9.  7  a.  m. : 
m.  j 
7  1).  m. 
10,  7  a.  m.  I 
m.  i 
7  p.  m.  1 


7  p.  m.  I 

12,  7  a.  m. 

in. ' 
7  p.  m. 

13,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

14,  7  a.  m. 


15,  7  a.  m. 

m.  I 

7  p.  m.  I 

IC,  7  a.  m. 

m. ! 

7  p.  m.  I 

17,  7  a.  m. 

m. , 
7  p.  m.  I 

18,  7  a.  m.  I 

m.! 
7  p.  m.  I 

19,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

20,  7  a.  m. 


Ther.  5. 


7  p.  m. 

22,  7  a.  m. 
7  p.  m. 

23,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 


Bar. 


In. 


"Wind. 


Sky. 


NNW 6  i 

NNAY 3 

NNW 1 

NN'OT 8 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 6 

XNW 2 

NNW 1 

NW 2 

NW 1 


NNW 
NE  . . . 

N 

N 

NNW 
NNW 
NNW 

Calm  

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

Calm  

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

W 2 

W 1 

W 1 

NNW 3 

NNW  G 

NNW 5 

S    1 

S         1 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 

NNAV 2 

NNW 1 


Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

do 

...do  

Few  clouds  . 

....do  

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

....do 

Clear 

do 

Few  clouds  . 

Overcast 

...do 

...do    

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

..-.do  

Clear    

Few  clouds 

Clear 

Few  clouds 

...do  

Clear 

Overcast 

...do 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy    

Few  clouds 

....do  

Cloudy    . . . 

..  do    

Clear  

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  - 
Clear 


Remai'kb. 


Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 3°. 


Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  —7°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 15°, 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 13°. 


Fog;  ther.  lowest  List  night, — 12°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  —17°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  la.st  night,  —20°. 


Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night, — 2G°. 
Fog. 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 
Fog. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 18°. 


Snow;  ther.lowestlastnight,  — 12°. 
Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 17°. 


On  journey  to  Lyon''K  Inlet  to  Noi'emher  29. 


—  27 

—  24 

—  25 

—  22 

—  18 

—  22 

—  14 

—  12 

—  14 

—  12 

—  10 

0 
2 
4 
4 
12 
15 
5 
14 
12 
4 
14 
20 
24 
20 
18 
20 


j  NNW 3 

I  NNW 4 

,  NNW 3 

I  NNW 3 

I  N ,2 

N 5 

I  SW 3 

i  SW 7 

SW 7 

SW 5 

SW 2 


S... 
S  .  . 
S  ... 
SW. 
SW. 
SW. 
E... 
W.. 
W    . 


NNW 1 

NE 1 

NE 2 

E 1 

SE 1 

E 4 

SE 5 

SSW 7 

S 5 

NNW 2 

NE 1 

..NE 2 

N 2 

NNW 4 


...do  

...  do 

.    do 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

....do  

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Cloudy  .   ... 
...do' 


Overcast . . . 

...do  

...do 

...do  

...do 

..do    

Few  clouds 
Cloudy  


Few  clouds  . 
Overcast . . . . 

...do  

. . .  do 

Cloudy 

...do    

Overcast 


Cloudy 

Overcast  . . 

...do 

...do    

Few  clouds 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 27°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —25°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 14°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 19°. 

Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 


llazy;  snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  4°. 

Fog. 

log. 


Fog. 

Drift. 

Aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —6°. 

Snow. 

Fog;  ther.  lowest  List  night,  8°. 

Fog. 


RaWa  Meteorological  Journal. 

NovEMBEU — December,  1868. 


537 


Locality. 


Enc't  No.  196. 
Lat.    670       N. 
Lon<;.840  52'W. 
I)o 


Enc't  No.  197. 
Lat.  CeoyS'N. 
Loug.85°  19'  W 

Enc^t  No.  198. 
Lat.  6G°47'{W 
Lonp;.85'^25'';N 

Euc't  No.  199. 
Lat.  66°35'nv 
Lonc;.85°3G'?N 

Enc't  No.  200. 
Lat.  66°  33'.  5  N 
Lons.86°34'W 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Date. 


1868. 
Nov.  24,  7  a.  m. 


25 


29, 
30, 
Dec.  3 
4, 
5, 
6, 
7, 
8 
9, 
10. 


7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m 

III. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  in. 
7  p.  m. 


7  p.  m. 
7  a.  ni. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 


7  p.  m. 

7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  ni. 

m. 
7  p.m. 


Ther.  5. 


Bar. 


In. 


Wind. 


NNW 
NNW 
NXW 
NE... 
NE... 

E 

E 

E.  .., 
NNW 
NW  .. 
NE  .. 
NE... 
SW... 
SW... 
SW  .. 


NNW  .... 
WNW.... 

NW 

SSE  

SSE 

SE 

SE 

E 

ESE 

E 

E 

ENE 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NNW  . . . . 
NNW  .... 
NNW  .... 
NNW  . . . . 
NNW  . . . . 

N 

N 

N 

N 

NNW  .... 
NNW  .... 

NW 

N 

NNW  .... 

NW 

NE 

NE 

SE   

NNW  .... 
NNW  . . . . 
NNW  .... 

NW 

NNW  .... 
NNW  .... 

N 

N 

N 

N.  by  W.- 

NW' 

NNW  .... 
NNW  .... 

NW 

WNW.... 

ENE  

ESE 

SE... 

N 

N 

N 


Skv. 


Overcast . 
...do  .... 
..  do  .... 


Overcast . 
...do  .... 


Few  clouds 
Overcast . . . 

.     do    

Cloudy  .... 
Few  clouds 
Cloudy 


Cloudy  .... 

. .  .do  ■ 

...do 

Overcast . . . 

...do 

...do  

...do  

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do  

...do 

...do  

. .  .do 

Few  clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few  clouds 
Cloudy 


Few  clouds 

..-.do  

...do 

Clear , 

..  do 

....do 

Overcast . . . 
Few  clouds 
Cloudy 

do 

Overcast . . . 

....do  

...do 

....do  

Cloudy 

Few  clouds 

..do , 

...do , 

Cloudv  . .. . 

...do". 

...do  

....do 

Clear  

Few  clouds 
Cloudy 

!!  do  .'.'.'.'. 

..  do 

....do , 

...do  

Clear 

Few  clouds 

...do 


Bemarks. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —8°. 

Diift;  snow. 
Di-ift ;  snow. 
Drift;  snow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  nifuht,  — 10'^. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 10°. 


Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  8°. 

Snow. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest la.st night,— 20°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest lastnight,— 22°. 


Drift;  ther.  lowestlast night,— 22°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlast night,— 20°. 

Diift. 

Drift ;  aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 26°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  ni"ht,  —20°. 


Drift;  ther.  lowest  lastnight,- 10°. 
Drift. 


Ther. lowest  last  night.— 24°. 


Drift;  ther.  Ittwest  last  night,— 22°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  tlier.  lowe.stlast  night,- 23°. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —18°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 5°. 
Fog. 


538 


Hairs  3Ieteorolo(jkal  Journal. 

December,  1868— Jaxuaky,  1869. 


Locality. 

Date. 

Tlier.  5. 

Bar. 

Wind. 

! 

Sky. 

Eemarks. 

Enc't  X^o.  200. 
Lat.  66=5  33'.5N. 
Long.86°34'"\,V. 

1868. 

Dec.  25, 7  a,  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

26,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

27, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

28, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

29, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

30, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

1869. 

Jan.    1, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

2, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

3, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

4, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

5, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

6,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

7,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

8,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

9, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

10, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

11, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

12, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

13, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

14,7  a.m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

15, 2  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

IC,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

17, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

18,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

o 

—  4 

—  4 

—  3 

—  3 
o 

0 

—  23 

—  28 

—  24 

—  22 

—  22 

—  22 

—  21 

—  18 

—  22 

—  28 

—  22 

—  18 

—  4 

—  10 

—  12 

—  11 

—  12 

—  14 

—  20 

—  17 

—  17 

—  16 

—  16 

—  18 

—  15 

—  16 

—  18 

—  22 

—  25 

—  30 

—  30 

—  20 

—  20 

—  28 

—  28 

—  32 

—  34 

—  35 

—  36 

—  34 

—  34 

—  32 

—  33 

—  30 

—  28 

—  27 

—  23 

—  21 

—  28 

—  26 

—  25 

—  14 

—  12 

—  15 

—  8 

—  12 

—  14 

—  17 

—  14 

—  17 

—  16 

—  20 

—  22 

—  20 

—  20 

—  22 

In. 

SSE 

SE 

SSE 

SE 

Calm 

-.4 
..2 
.  3 
..1 

Cloudy 

do 

....do 

Overcast 

...  do  

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 4°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Drift;  ther.  lowcstlast night,— 230. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —25°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —22°. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 28°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —12°. 
Snow. 

Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —18°. 

Hazv. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,- 22°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —31°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlastnight,- 34°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,- 38°. 

Drift. 

Aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —33°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 

1 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  -28°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 27°. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,- 15°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,- 18°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  17°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —27°. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

N 

iraw .... 
NNW  .... 

NE 

N 

NW 

NNW  .... 

NW 

N 

N 

NNW  .... 

.3 
..2 
..7 
..2 
..1 
.  1 
..1 
-.2 
..2 
..7 
-.6 

....do  

Cloudy 

do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 
...  do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

Clear 



t 

ENE 

VVJSVV.... 
WN-W.... 

NE 

NNE 

N 

N 

NW 

NNW  .... 

N 

N 

N 

X 

ENE 

ElfE 

N 

:n^ 

isr 

N 

N 

E 

N 

N.  byE... 

N.... 

N 

n:nw  .... 
Nisrw .... 

NNW  .... 

KNW  .... 
NNW  .... 

NW 

NW 

NW 

WNW.... 
Calm 

..1 

..3 
..1 
..1 
..1 
.3 
..6 
.3 
..4 
..4 
..7 
..6 
..6 
-.2 
..2 
..1 
..8 
..7 
..7 
..3 
.  2 
..3 
..2 
..3 
..4 
..8 
..7 
.8 
..7 
..6 
.4 
.3 
-.3 
..3 

Overcast 

Clear 

....do  

Overcast 

....do  

...  do 

Cloudy 

...do 

Overcast 

...do  

....do  

....do  

....do  

....do 

Few  clouds  . 

...do 

....do  

Cloudy 

do 

....do  

...do 

....do 

....do  

...do  

....do  

Clear 

Cloudy 

do 

Clear 

Cloudv 

Few  clouds  . 

Clear    

Few  clouds  . 
..  ..do 

Do  

Do  

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Clear  

Few  clouds  . 
....do  

Calm 

Do  

Calm 

Calm 

Cloudy  .... 

...  do 

...do  

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy  .... 

do 

...  do  

....do  

...do 

Clear  

Cloudv 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

do 

SE 

SE 

NW 

NW 

NW 

KW 

ESE 

ESE 

ESE 

XNW  .... 
NN^V  .... 
NNW  .... 

NW 

N 

N 

..1 
.  2 
.3 
..5 
..4 
..1 
..2 
..2 
..1 
..9 
..7 
..7 
..2 
..2 
.1 

Enc't  No.  201. 
Lat.    66°37'N. 
Long.86°42'W. 

Do 

Do 

HalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 


539 


January — February,  1869. 


Locality. 

Date. 

Ther.  5. 

Bar. 

Wind. 

Sky. 

Bemarks. 

Enc't  No.  201. 
Lat.    660  37'N. 
Long.  86°  42' W. 

1869. 
Jan.  19, 7  a.  m. 
m. 
7  p.  m. 

20,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

21,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

22,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

23,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

24, 7  ».  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

25,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

26,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

27,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

28,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

29,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

30,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

31,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

Feb.    1,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

2,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

3,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

4,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

5,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

6,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

7, 7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

8,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

9,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

10,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

11,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 

o 

—  37 

—  36 

—  36 

—  35 

—  32 

—  .02 

—  30 

—  29 

—  32 

—  34 

—  34 

—  35 

—  17 

—  10 

—  7 

—  10 

—  9 

—  9 

—  16 

—  16 

—  15 

—  16 

—  16 

—  16 

—  10 

—  10 

—  9 

—  18 

—  17 

—  20 

—  20 

—  18 

—  21 

—  8 

—  6 

—  6 

—  4 

—  4 

—  10 

—  20 

—  28 

—  20 

—  24 

—  17 

—  18 

0 
1 

—  4 

—  14 

—  13 

—  16 

—  30 

—  30 

—  34 

—  38 

—  36 

—  35 

—  35 

—  33 

—  35 

—  20 

—  10 

—  24 

—  28 

—  30 

—  34 

—  37 

—  28 

—  26 

—  38 

—  30 

—  35 

In. 

NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

ilNW  ... 
NNW  ... 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NNW  . . . 
N.  by  W. 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

-.7 

-.7 

.".'8 
.7 
..8 
.  9 
..8 
..8 
.  .5 
.  8 
.  8 
.10 
10 
.11 
.11 
.11 
.11 
.11 
.11 
.11 
.10 
.9 

Few  clouds  . 

...  do 

...do  

....do 

....do  

...do 

...  do 

....do 

...  do  

Cloudy 

do 

Few  clouds  . 

...do  

....do  

—do 

Drift:  ther. lowestLastnight,— 37°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlast night,— 37°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 32°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 34^ 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 35°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowestlastnight,- 10°. 

Drilt. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,- 16°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowesthist night,— 16°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowestlastnight,- 16°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,— 19°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —20°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 21^. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 6°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  20°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  29°. 

Snow;  ther. lowestlastnight,— 18°. 
Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 14°. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  30°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —38°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  35°. 

Snow;  ther.  lowestlastnight,— 37°. 

Snow. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowestlastnight,— 28°. 

Drilt. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 37°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  38°. 

Do 

Do  

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Few  clouds  . 
...do  

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 
...do  

Clear 

Few  clouds  . 
...do  

Clear 

Cloudy 

...do  

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

Overcast  . . 

...  do 

...  do  

...do  

Few  clouds  . 

....do  

...do 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 
...  do  

Overcast 

....do 

....do  

...do  

....do  

....do 

Clear 

...do  

.-..do  

Cloudy 

do 

Clear 

....do  

....do  

Cloudy 

Overcast 

....do  

Clear 

Few  clouds  . 
....do  

Clear 

....do  

Few  clouds  . 

...do  

...do 

Cloudy 

Clear 

Do 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NW  .... 
NNW  . . . 
NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 

Calm 

Calm 

.9 

..8 
.  8 
..8 
.8 
..7 
.  7 
..5 
.  3 
..1 

Do 

Do      

Do  

Do 

SE 

SE 

SE 

NW 

ISIW 

NW 

NW  ...  . 

SE 

SE 

SE 

SE 

SE 

NW 

NW 

NW 

KW 

N 

NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 

N]srw ... 

NIs'W  ... 

NNW  ... 
NNW  ... 
InNW  ... 
NNW  ... 

SE 

SW 

NNW  ... 

NW 

NW 

NW 

NNW  ... 

iraw ... 

NNW  ... 
KNW... 

isnsrw ... 

NNW... 

..1 

.  2 

:1 

..5 
...3 
.1 
.  .2 
.  1 
.  2 
..4 
.  3 
..2 
.  3 
..5 
...6 
.  1 
..1 
..1 
.  3 
..9 
..4 
..2 
..2 
..1 
.  2 
.   1 
..6 
...9 
...8 
...7 
..1 
..2 
..2 
.3 
..3 
-.4 

Do          

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do  

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do  ... 

540 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 


February — March,  1869. 


Locality. 


Date. 


Enc't  Xo.  201. 
Lat.  66°37'N. 
LoBS.86°42'W. 


Do 

13, 

Do 

14, 

Do 

15 

Do 

16, 

Do 

17 

Do 

18, 

Do 

19, 

Do 

20, 

Do 

21 

Do 

Do 

23, 

Do 

24, 

Do 

2.") 

Do 

26, 

Do 

Do 

28, 

Do 

Mar.  1, 

Do 

2, 

Do 

3, 

Do 

4, 

Do 

5, 

Do 

6, 

Do 

7, 

1869. 
Feb.  12,  7  a.  m. 


7  p.  m. 

7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

7  a.  m. 

in. 

"  p.  m. 

a.  ni. 

111. 

p.  111. 

a.  m. 

in. 

p.  m. 

7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 


p.  m. 

7  a.  m. 


p.  lu. 
a.  m. 


p.  m. 

a.  m. 

in. 

p.  m. 

a.  m. 

ni. 

7  p.  m. 

7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.m. 

7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. ! 

7  a.  m.  I 


Ther.  5. 


7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 


—  40 

—  36 

—  42 

—  48 

—  38 

—  44 

—  37 

—  35 

—  40 

—  39 

—  36 

—  38 

—  26 

—  24 

—  20 

—  24 

—  25 

—  28 

—  21 

—  20 

—  18 

—  32 

—  30 

—  32 

—  38 

—  36 

—  38 

—  40 

—  36 

—  40 

—  44 

—  40 

—  42 

—  29 

—  26 

—  32 

—  20 

—  17 

—  18 

—  18 

—  15 

—  21 

—  32 

—  14 

—  14 

—  11 


Bar. 


In. 


"Wind. 


7p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m.  I 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m.  I 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 


7  p.m.      — 


^rarw 1 

NNW 3 

NNW 1 

Calm 

NW 1 

NNW 1 

I\^NW 6 

NNW 7 

NNW 7 

iSrNW 7 

NNW 7 

NKW 5 

NNW 8 

XXW 9 

KNW 10 

NW 6 

NW 5 

NW 1 

SE 2 

SE  5 

SE 5 

NNW 6 

NNW 7 

NISTW 6 

ITOW 7 

NNW 7 

NNW 5 

NNW    5 

KXW 6 

■SNW 5 

ISTfW 7 

NNW .6 

ITNW 7 

KNW 6 

NNW 6 

NNW 2 

SE. 1 

SE 3 

SE 2 

SE  1 

NNW 2 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 

SE 1 

SE 1 

SE 4 

SE 4 

SE 4 

KW 5 

NW 6 

NNW 5 

NNW 1 

Calm 

NW 1 

NE 1 

E 6 

E 4 

NW 2 

NW 6 

NW 2 

NW 6 

E 5 

NW 1 

SE .S 

SE 3 

SE 4 

Calm 

NNW 5 

NNW 6 

NNW 10 

NXW 10 

NNW 10 


Sky. 


Clear 

...do    

...do  

....do  

...do , 

...do  

Few  clouds 

Cleai- 

....do  

...do    

Few  clouds 
...do    


Kemarks. 


...do 

...do 

....do 

Clear 

....do 

Few  clouds 
Overcast  . . 

...  do 

....do 

....do  

....do  

...do    , 

Few  clouds 

...do 

Clear 

Few  clouds 

Clear 

...do  

. . -do 

. .  do 

...do    

Overcast 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

Cloudy 

...do' 

...do , 

Overcast 

Few  clouds 

Cloudy 

...do 

...do  

....do 

Overcast. . . 

...do 

Few  clouds  , 

....do 

...do  

Clear 

Few  clouds 
...  do 


Cloudy  .... 
Overcast . . . 
Few  clouds 

...do 

Clear , 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

Few  clouds 

...do , 

-.do 

Overcast 

Cloudy 

...do 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 41°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  niglit,  —  48°. 


Drift;  ther. lowest la.st niglit, — 44°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowest lastnight,— 40°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowest lastnight,— 36°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest lastnight,— 20°. 


Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 28°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowestlastnight,— 32°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 38°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther. lowest lastnight,— 40°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Diift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night, —  44°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther. lowestlastnight,- 42°. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —32°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 18°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  32°. 


Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 14°. 
Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 17°. 

Drift;  aurora. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —28°. 

Fog. 
Fog. 
Drift. 


Drift;  fog. 
Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  la.st  night,  — 19° 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 18<"" 

Drift. 

Drift;  hazy. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,— 20°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 


Hall's  Meteorological  Journal. 

March— Apkil,  1869. 


541 


Locality. 


Enc't  No.  201. 

Lat.    66°  37'  N. 

Long.  86°  42' W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Enc't  No.  202. 
N.  Pole  Lake. 


Enc't  No.  203. 
Same. 


Enc't  No.  204. 
Christie  Lake. 


Enc't  No.  206. 
Miles  Lake. 


Date. 


Do. 


Enc't  No.  207. 


Enc't  No.  208. 
Near  Cape 

Lady  Pelly. 
Enc't  No.  209. 


Enc't  No.  210. 

Enc't  No.  211. 

Do 


Mar.    8, 

9, 
10 

11 

12; 

13, 

14, 

15, 

16, 
17, 

18, 
19, 
20, 

*23, 
24, 
25, 
27, 
28, 
29, 
30 
31 
Apr.    1 


7  a.  m. 


7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 


7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 


Ther.  5, 


—  15 

—  2 
0 

—  10 

—  26 

—  4 

—  17 

—  26 

—  6 


—  15 

—  18 


Ear. 


In. 


"Wind. 


Sky. 


S 2  Overcast. . . 

Calm do 

E 4  ....do    

E 3  Few  clouds 

E 6  Clouds 

E 3  Fog 

N W 2  F(!W  clouds 

NW 2  Clear 

NW 5  Cloudy 

NN W 6  Few  clouds 

NNW 2  ...  do 

NNW 1  Cloudy 

NNW 3  Few  clouds 

NNW 2  Clear 

NNW 2  Few  clouds 

NNW 1  Clear 

Calm do 

NNW 3  Cloudy  -    - 

N  W 1  Few  clouds 

NW 1  ....do 

N 3  Clear 

NNW 5  Few  clouds 

NW 6 

NW      5 

NNW 5 

NNW 4 

NNW 2 

Calm 


Clear 

7  p.m.      —19    .  NNW 5     -do 

7  a.m.      —20      NNW 4     Few  clouds 

7     NNW 2     Clear 

p.m.      —  18    Calm Few  clouds 

7a.m.      —12     SE 2     Overcast... 

7      S    3    ...  do 

7p.m.  4      S 4    do 

7  a.m.      —    4      Cnlm Few  clouds 

3    NW    3     Cloudy  .... 

7p.m.      —    5     NNW 3     Overcast... 

7a.m.  0     NNW 7    ....do 

—  1?    NNW 8    ....do    

7p.m.      —15    NNW 7     Cloudy.    .. 

Observations  on  sledge-journey  to  King  William 


Eemarke. 


Ther.  lowest  lastnight, —  5°. 

Snow. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 15°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  29°. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  27°. 


Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night  —26°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  24°. 


Snow ;  thei .  lowest  lastnight, —  21° 

.Suow. 

Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —4°. 


[night,— 3°. 
1( 


7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 
7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.m. 


—  24 

—  16 

—  25 

—  22 

—  16 

—  20 

—  15 

—  5 

—  14 

—  22 

1 

—  12 

—  18 

—  4 

—  10 

—  31 

—  14 

—  30 

—  30 

—  15 

—  21 

—  22 

—  12 

—  24 

—  20 

—  14 

—  29 

—  18 

—  12 

—  28 

—  29 

—  15 

—  23 


NNW 6 

NNW 8 

NNW 7 

NNW 6 

NNW 6 

NNW 6 

NW 6 

NW 2 

NW 1 

SW 1 

SW 3 

SW 4 

SW 4 

SW 1 

SW 1 

Calm 

NNW 2 

NNW 1 

NW 1 

NW 2 

NNW 1 

NNW 1 

W 2 

W 1 

NW 1 

W 1 

W 1 

W 1 

W 1 

W 1 

W 1 

Calm 

W. 1 


Few  clouds 

Clear 

Cloudy 

Overcast . . . 

Cloudy 

...do 

Overcast. . . 
Few  clouds 

...do 

Clear 

..  do 


...do 

.     do 

..   do 

..  do 

..  do 

...do  

...do  

Cloudy 

Few  clouds 

Clear 

. .  do 

..  do 

...do  

...do  

...do  

-    do 

Cloudy  .... 

Clear 

...do , 

...do 

...do  

..do 


Drift ;    suow ;    ther.    lowest   last 

Drift;  snow. 

Drift. 

s  Land. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  lastnight, — 24°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther. lowestlastnight,— 26°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 21°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 24°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 27°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —35°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  33°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —27'^. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 27". 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  Z'tP. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —  32°. 


' Hall  discovers  that  he  has  lost  two  days;  probably  some  time  in  the  winter. 


)42 


HalVs  Meteorological  Journal. 


April,  1869. 


Locality. 


Date. 


Ther.  5. 


Enc't  No.  212. 


Enc't  No.  213. 
Lat    68=^   7'N.  ^ 
Long. 88°  48' W.I 
Enc't  No.  214. 
Lat.    68°  15'  N. 
Long.89°  17'  W. 
Enc't  Xo.  215. 
Lai.  C8°  22'. 5  X. 
Long.  89°  42' W. 

Enc't  No.  21G. 
Lat.  68°  26'  N. 
Long.89°53'Ay. 
Enc't  No.  217. 
Lat.  68°28'N. 
Long.  90°  7'W. 
Do 


Enc't  No.  218. 

Lat.  68°30'.5N. 

Lon.90"28'5W. 

Do 


Enct  No.  219. 
Lat.  68°  29'  N. 
Long.  90°  44' W. 
Enc't  No.  220. 
Lat.  68°  26'  N. 
Lon.91°07'..5W. 
Do 


Do. 


1869. 
Apr.   4,  7  a.  m. 
m. 
7  p.  m. 

5,  7  a.  ni. 

Oi. 
7  p.  m. 

6,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

7,  7  a.  m. 


7  p.m. 

8,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

9,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

10,  7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

11, 7  a.  m. 

m. 

7  p.  m. 

12,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

13,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

14,  7  a.  m. 


I  p.  m. 
15,  7  a.  ni. 


7  p.  m. 
16,  7  a.  m. 


Enc't  No.  221. 

Lat.     68=31'N. 

Long.  91°  30' W. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Enc't  No.  222. 

Lat.    68°  36'  N. 

Long.92°  -i'W. 

Do  


En<! 
I^t. 


t  No.  223. 
68°  24'  N. 


Loug.92°22' W. 
Enca  No.  224. 
Lat.  68°30'N. 
Long.  92°  4.7  W. 
Do .. 


Enc't  No.  225. 
Lat.    08°.'{6'N.  I 
Long.93°29'\V.I 


7  p.  m. 

17,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  J),  m.  ' 

18,  7  a.  m.  1 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

19,  7  a.  m. 

m.  I 
7  p.  m. 

20,  7  a.  m.  ' 

m. 
7  p.  in. 

21,  7  a.  ni. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

22,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  in. 

23,  7  a.  m. 

in.  ■ 
7  p.  ni. 

24,  7  a.  m.  ! 

in.  I 
7  p.  m. 

25,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 

26,  7  a.  in. 

in. 
7  p.  ni. 

27,  7  a.  m. 

m. 
7  p.  m. 


—  24 

5 
0 

15 
20 
10 
17 
27 
19 
10 

6 

—  6 

—  4 

4 

2 

10 
14 
0 
2 
20 
6 
8 
9 

—  15 

—  14 

—  8 

—  18 

—  22 

—  11 

—  20 

—  17 

—  10 

—  18 

—  18 

—  12 

—  16 


Bar. 


Jji. 


Wind. 


Sky. 


Eemarks. 


AVNW 2 

SE  5 

SE 9 

SE 5 

SE 4 

SE 4 

SE 1 

SE 1 

SE         3 

WNW 3 


SW.. 

sw.. 
w  . 
NW  . 
NW  . 
NW  . 
W  ... 
N... 
Calm 
Calm 
Calm 
SW.. 
W... 
NW. 
W... 
W  ... 
W... 
N.... 
N.... 
N.  .. 
NNE 

NNE 3 

NW 2 

W 8 

9 


W. 

AV. 

W. 

W  . 

W. 

W. 

W 

E.. 

W. 

NE 

NE 

NE 

NE 

NE 

NE 

NE 

NE 

NE 

E.. 

NW 

W. 

E.. 

S    . 

W 

w. 
w. 

w. 

E. 

E.. 

SW 

E.. 

W. 

W. 

AV  . 

W. 

W 

W. 

W. 


Cloudy 


,...  8 
....  8 
7 

1 

6 

3 

1 

2 

...  3 
....  1 
....  2 
...  3 
2 


Overcast. 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 
...do  .... 


...do 
...do 
...do 
...do 
...do 
...do 
...do 


Overcast . . . 

..do 

...do 

...do 

..  do 

Few  clouds 

...do  

...do  

Clear 

Few  clouds 

...do    

Clear 

Few  clouds 

...do  

...do 


Few  clouds  . 
...do 


Cloudy  .... 
Overcast  . . 

...do 

...do  

...do    

,...do 

...do  

...  do 

..  do 

..  do 


Few  clouds  . 

Clear 

...do 

Cloudy 

Overcast 

..  do 

do 

Cloudy  .  . . . 

do". 

..  do 

Overcast 

...do 

...do    

Cloudy 

Few  clouds  . 

...do  

Clear  .   . 
Few  clouds  . 
Clear 


Fog;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 33°. 

Snow. 

Snow;  drift. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  List  night,  0°. 

Snow. 

Snow. 

Snow ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 

Snow. 

Thick  weather;  ther.  lowest  last 

night,  2°. 
Snow. 
Drift. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 10°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 2°. 
Snow. 

Fog ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,  0°. 

Snow. 

Snow  ther.  lowestlastnight, — 1°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift ;  ther.  lowest  last  night,— 24°. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —33°. 
Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —23°. 


Drift ;  ther.  lowestlastnight.— 26°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 


Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —20°. 

Haze. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  — 1-6°. 

Snow. 

Snow.  [night,  4°. 

Drift ;     snow ;     ther.   lowest  last 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Drift :  tlicr.  lowest  last  night,  — 6°. 

Drift. 

Drift. 

Fog. 

Fog;  haze. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  —20°. 


Drift. 
Drift. 
Drift. 

Drift. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  8°. 
Snow. 

Ther.  lowest  last  night,  3°. 


Ther.  lowest  last  niglit,  — 15°. 
Fog. 


HaWs  Meteorological  Journal. 

April,  18H9. 


543 


Note  explanatory  of  the  break  from  April,  1867,  to  May,  1868.— By  reference  to  page  320  (Chapter  XI)  it  will  bo 
seeu  that  Hall's  journalizing  during  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1867  and  the  first  part  of  1868  -was  occasional  only. 
No  meteorological  notes  are  found  lx)r  that  period  among  his  papers. 


544 


HalPs  Encampments. 


[1864-1866. 


1 

the  barlt  Monti- 
epot  Island, 
tlclen  F.  to  take 
ideuce  on  shore. 

5  ^'-'  C5.9 

Sol 

» 

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eaves  the 
up  his  res 

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ruary  14, 
journey  t 
whoro  the 
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1866—1867.1 


HalVs  Encampments. 


545 


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-35 


546 


HalVs  Encampments. 


[1867. 


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18«» -1868.1 


HalVs  Encampments. 


547 


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548 


HaWs  Encampments. 


[1868. 


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40tli  Kuc't Juno    1 

41st  I'.nc't .Juno    4 

4-M  I'".uc't ...     June    5 

4:!(1  Kuc't      June    6 

4ltli  Knc't June    8 

4."<l h  ICnct Juno  10 

4r,ili  Enc't Juno  1] 

471  h  Enc't Juno  13 

481  h  Knc't Juno  10 

4!i[  h  Enc't .June  17 

50tli  Enc't June  18 

51st  Enc't June  19 

Aug.  10 

Aug.  17 

Aug.  26 

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238 
239 
240 
241 
242 
243 
244 
245 
240 
247 
248 
249 
250 
251 
252 
253 
254 
255 

I 


APPENDIX    III. 


ON  THE  GEOLOGY  OF  FROBISHER  BAY  AND  FIELD  BAY;  A  DESCRIP- 
TION OF  THE  GEOLOGICAL  COLLECTIONS  MADE  BY  C.  F.  HALL 
ON  HIS  FIRST  VOYAGE,  1860-'62. 


These  collections  were  presented  to  Amherst  College,  Mass.,  by  J.  J.  Copp,  Esq.,  of  Groton,  Conn., 
a  graduate  of  the  college.  They  are  discussed  in  the  following  pages  by  Prof.  B.  K.  Emer- 
son, Professor  of  Geology  in  that  Institution.  They  are  appended  to  the  Narrative  as 
exhibiting  additional  proofs  to  those  given  in  Chapters  I  and  II  of  Hall's  labors,  which 
secured  the  outfit  for  his  Second  Expedition. 


A^PPEISTDIX    ITI. 


ON  THE  GEOLOGY  OF  FROBISHER  BAY  AND  FIELD  BAY. 

DESCRIPTION  OP  THE  COLLECTIONS  MADE  BY  C.  P.  HALL 

DURING    HIS    PIRST    EXPEDITION    IN    THE 

ARCTIC    REGIONS,    lSr)0-'()2. 


By  Prof.  Ben.t.  K.  Emerson,  of  Amherst  College^  MaMachusetts. 


On  t.Le  return  of  Mr.  C.  P.  Hall  to  New  Loudon,  Conn.,  from  his  First  Ex- 
pedition to  the  Arctic  Regions,  he  turned  over  a  part  of  his  collections,  appar- 
ently the  portion  which  he  considered  of  the  greatest  geological  interest,  to  the 
New  York  Lyceum  of  Natural  History;  and  it  was  the  subject  of  brief  reports  to 
the  Lyceum  by  Mr.  R.  P.  Stevens  upon  the  fossils  and  by  Mr.  Thomas  Egleston 
upon  the  rocks  and  ores.     Mr.  Stevens  gave  a  list,  without  description,  of  seven 

species  of  fossils,  viz : 

No.  of 
speciineus. 

Maclurea  maxjua  (Les. ) "i 

"  "  casts  of  lower  siirfacr". ■{ 

Endoceras proieiformef  (Hall) 1 

Orthoceras  (badly  worn) ^ 

MelioUtes  (new  species) ~ 

Eeliopora  (new  species) 1 

Malysites  catenulata  (Fisch. ) 1 

Eeceptaciilites  (uew  species) 1 

Mr.  Stevens  accompanied  this  list  with  notes  of  the  stratigraphical  position 
of  the  species  in  New  York,  and  with  the  remark,  "  This  collection  was  made  at 
the  head  of  Probisher  Bay,  lat.  03°  44/  N.  and  long.  08°  50'  W.  from  Greenwich, 

553 


554  Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections. 

at  a  point  t\  hich  Mr.  Hall  says  is  a  mountain  of  fossils  similar  to  the  limestone 
bluff  at  Cincinnati,  with  which  he  is  familiar."* 

These  specimens  came  manifestly  from  the  ridge  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  to 
■which  Hall  gave  the  name  Silliraan's  Fossil  Mount,  and  which  in  his  Narrative  he 
compares  to  the  Cincinnati  bluff.  Another  portion  of  the  collections  was  stored 
at  I^ew  Loudon,  and,  after  the  departure  of  Hall  upon  his  second  visit  to  the  Arc- 
tic Eegions,  was  presented  to  the  cabinet  of  Amherst  College  by  Mr.  J.  J.  Copp,  of 
Groton.  Conn.,  a  graduate  of  the  college.  It  was  contained  in  three  large  boxes, 
weighing  about  two  hundred  pounds;  they  had  not  been  opened  since  they  were 
packed  by  Hall  in  Eescue  Harbor,  Field  Bay.  The  collection  i)resented,  on  its 
opening,  a  verj*  unpromising  appearance.  Having  been  packed  with  greasy  and 
sooty  papers  in  the  igloos  of  the  natives  or  upoa  the  deck  of  the  whaler,  and  hav- 
ing remained  untouched  for  so  long  a  time,  it  was  covered  with  mold,  and  many 
of  the  labels  were  illegible.  Fortunatelj^,  the  most  interesting  specimens  had  the 
locality  marked  in  ink  or  pencil  upon  the  surface  of  the  rock  itself,  and  in  other 
cases,  a  study  of  Hall's  jSTarrative  enabled  one  to  restore  with  a  good  degree  of 
certainty  the  exact  localities  from  which  they  came.  The  localities,  however, 
quoted  in  the  following  paper  are,  in  all  cases,  those  given  by  Hall  himself.t 

*Eeport  on  tlie  geological  and  miueralogical  specimens  collected  by  Mr.  C.  F.  Hall  in  Fro- 
bisher  Bay. — Am.  Jour.  Sc,  2d  series,  vol.  35,  1863,  pp.  293,  294;  also  "Hall's  Arctic  Eesearchcs," 
App.  X,  p.  594. 

tThe  boxes  contained  specimens  from  other  Arctic  Regions  besides  Baffin's  Land,  viz:  (1) 
Several  from  Holsteinborg,  Greenland,  picked  up  by  Hall  when  liis  ship  visited  that  port,  and 
(2)  several  from  Melville  and  Beechy  Islands,  manifestly  collected  by  McClintock's  Expedition  in 
18.53*,  and  a  number  from  both  shores  of  Smith's  Sound.  I  think  it  probable  that  they  were  pre- 
sented to  Captain  Hall  in  Holsteinborg  and  packed  by  him  with  his  other  things  in  Eescue  Har- 
bor. It  is  certain  that  the  boxes  were  not  opened  after  their  arrival  in  this  country  until  they 
came  into  my  possession. 

The  specimens  were  as  follows : 

HOLSTEINBORG. 

l.t  Gray  translucent  quartz. 

2.  White  granular  orthoclase. 

3.  Gabbro,  a  rock  of  medium  grain,  consisting  of  a  green  compact  feldspar  resembling 
Baussurite,  pearl-gray  to  greenish-gray  diallage,  brown  biotite  in  abundance,  quartz  sparingly, 
and  carbonates,  as  indicated  by  long-continued  effervescence  with  acids. 

The  brown  mica  is  arranged  in  one  plane,  giving  the  rock  a  complete  gneissoid  structure, 
making  the  rock  in  fact  a  middle  form  between  gneiss  and  gabbro.  Two  narrow  quartz  veins 
traverse  the  rock,  one  in  the  plane  of  lamination  and  the  other  at  right  angles  thereto. 

4.  Pale  flesh-colored  black  mica  gneiss. 

5.  Dark  gray  thin-bedded  black  mica  gneiss. 

6.  Gray-black  mica  gneiss. 

7.  Eeddish  homblendic  gneiss. 

* Joiirnal  of  the  Ro3al  Dublin  Soc.  1857,  p.  215. 

t  The  numbers  refer  to  numbers  attached  to  the  specimens  in  the  collection  of  Amherst  College. 


Professor  Emerson  on  IlalVs  Geolorjical  Collections  555 

The  common  crystalline  rocks  of  the  Ar(;tic-  regions,  j>raniti(;  and  gneissose, 
made  up  the  bulk  of  the  collection.  With  these  were  traps,  red  massive  quartz- 
ites,  sandstones,  gray  and  cream-colored  dolomites  and  limestones,  and  a  few 
pieces  of  black  cherty  and  dark  fissile  limestones,  which  furnished  so  many  fossils 
new  in  these  regions,  and  coming  from  a  horizon  which  had  not  before  been  known 
to  be  represented  so  far  north — that  of  the  Utica  slate — that  it  seemed  desirabh; 
to  publish  their  occurrence;  and  as  the  west  side  of  Baffin's  Bay  is  so  little  open 
to  exploration,  I  have  given  a  somewhat  detailed  account  of  all  the  specimens 
which  came  into  my  hands.  I  was  the  more  desirous  to  do  this  in  order  to  add 
something  to  the  already  very  considerable  scientific  results  of  this  unique 
Expedition,  as  the  single  member  thereof  was  accustomed  to  call  it.  By  the 
careful  exploration  of  Frobisher  Bay  Hall  filled  out  a  considerable  gap  in  the 
geographical  knowledge  of  the  northern  regions.  His  full  investigations  of 
the  relics  of  Frobisher  cleared  up  many  points  in  the  history  of  his  brave  prede- 
cessor,  and  recalled  very   vividly  the  famous   gold  excitement  of  the  times 

FKOM   BARROW  STRAITS. 

8.  Brown  coal.  Thin  laminated,  with  joints  at  right  angles  to  the  laminae;  color  dull 
black,  powder  deep  reddish-brown  ;  burns  with  yellow  flame,  and  the  flame  continues  after  it  is 
removed  from  the  gas-jet;  leaves  a  white  ash,  retaining  the  shape  and  nearly  the  size  of  the  piece 
employed.     Nothing  extracted  by  ether. 

Labeled,  ''Specimen  of  coal  from  the  center  of  Melville  Island.  Picked  up  1853. — Bed- 
ford PiM." 

This  is  manifestly  a  specimen  rescued  from  the  collections  abandoned  by  Captain  McClin- 
tock's  party  in  the  memorable  sledge  journey  across  Melville  Island.* 

9.  A  piece  of  fossiliferous  Upper  Silurian  limestone,  containing  the  following  forms  in  such 
poor  preservation  that  the  determination  is  in  some  cases  rather  uncertain :  Airypa  plioca,  Salter, 
sp.  (young  state) ;  Loxonema  Rossi,  Houghton;  Favosites  gothlandica,  Gold. ;  Petrcea  it«a  (?),  Lons.; 
Cladopora  seriata,  Hall ;  Halysites  catenulata,  L. 

Labeled,  "  Geological  Specimens  of  the  Parry  Islands.  Picked  up  on  Beechy  Island,  east 
of  the  group,  1856. — Bedford  Pim." 

from  smith's  sound. 

10.  A  light  gray  granulite,  quartz,  orthoclase,  and  garnet,  passing  abruptly  into  a  black 
mica  gneiss. 

Locality,  Etah  Bay,  North  Greenland. 

11.  Protogine.  Deep  flesh-red  orthoclase,  a  bright  grass-green  chloritic  mineral  (H  =  1.5) 
and  biotite  altered  torubellan,  the  latter  iu  small  quantity.  It  seems  probable  that  the  chloritic 
mineral,  which  has  exactly  the  properties  of  viridite,  is  a  product  of  the  decomposition  of  biotite,  the 
rubellau  representing  an  intermediate  stage.  The  rock  was  then  originally  a  red  biotite-granite, 
one  of  the  commonest  rocks  in  the  Arctic  region. 

Locality,  Etah  Bay. 

12.  Hornblende  Schist.  For  the  most  part  greenish-black  hornblende,  with  a  little  bronze- 
colored  mica  and  quartz. 

Locality,  Etah  Bay. 

*  Reminiscences  of  Arctic  Ice-Travel,  Journal  Roy.  Dublin  Soc.  1857,  pp.  235,  236. 


556  Professor  Emerson  on  HalFs  Geological  Collections. 

of  Elizabctli.  The  coals  and  tiuxes  brought  from  Enghmd,  the  anvils  and 
trenches,  the  blooms  made  in  testing  for  gold,  the  i)rospecting-holes,  and  the  masses 
of  the  ''black  stone  like  unto  coal,"  which  the  London  jewelers  had  declared 
to  be  gold-bearing,  and  the  full  traditions  of  the  natives,  all  seem  like  a  cliaptei- 
out  of  our  own  Western  history.  "His  long  and  intimate  association  with  the 
Innuit  makes  his  book  a  mine  ot  information  in  Ethnology,  and  the  geological 
collections  made  by  him  give  us  the  only  information  concerning  the  occurrence 
of  the  Lower  Silurian  in  the  whole  of  Ai-ctic  America  north  of  Kui)ert's  Land, 
with  the  single  exception  of  the  fossils  collected  by  Captain  McClintock  and 
described  by  Houghton.*"    These  were  : 

1.  Maclurea  arctica,  Houghton,  near  M.  magna,  in  white  Silurian  dolomite  from 

Depot  Bay,  in  Bellof  s  Straits,  72°  N.,  94°  W. 

2.  The  same  with  Chcetefes  lycoperdon,  H.,  associated  with  Upper  Silurian  fossils 

at  Fury  Point,  72o  50'  X.,  92°  W. 
r5.  ^[.  arctica,  Hough.,  Ormoceras  crebriseptum,  H.,  Huronia   vertebralis,  Stokes, 

Orthoceras  Canademe,  B.,  Receptacidetes  neptuni,  Def.,  from  the  west  coast 

of  King  William's  Land. 
4.  Orthoceras  moniliforme,  H.,  Cape  Riley,  Xorth  Devon. 

These  localities  lie  many  hundred  miles  to  the  northwest  of  Frobisher  Bay, 
and  are  characterized  over  wide  areas  by  buft'  and  cream-colored  dolomites  and 
limestones,  are  succeeded  by  the  limestones  of  the  Upper  Silurian  and  Carbon- 
ic. A  reddish-gray  quartzite  in  contorted  layers,  the  ends  of  the  laminse  coated  with  a 
curious  coraloidal  deposit  of  brick-red  limonite.     Locality,  Etah  Bay. 

14.  Beautiful  milky  quartz,  limpid,  with  pale  purple  opalescence.     Locality,  Etah  Bay. 

15.  Coarse  garnetiferous  gneiss.     From  Sontag's  grave,  at  Port  Foulke,  North  Greenland. 

16.  Many  fragments  of  same  opalescent  quartz  as  above  (5).     From  Sontag's  grave. 

17.  Coarse  granite  ;  gray  translucent  quartz  ;  flesh-colored  feldspar  in  large  crystalline 
masses,  and  no  mica.     Locality,  Esquimaux  Point,  North  Greenland. 

18.  Flesh-colored  garnetiferous  gneiss,  black  mica.     Esquimaux  Point. 

19.  A  very  even-bedded  friable  quartz  sandstone,  splitting  in  laminae  17™™  thick,  and  quite 
free  from  any  impurity.  The  specimen  is  pure  enough  for  the  manufacture  of  glass,  resembling 
<losely  the  St.  Peter's  sandstone  at  St.  Paul. 

It  is  labeled,  "From  Cape  Alexander,  L.  78°  20'  N.,  L.  7.3°  W." 

These  sandstones  are  mentioned  by  Sutherland  as  stretching  from  Wolstonholme  Sound  to 
(Jape  Alexander,  nearly  always  horizontal  (Proc.  Geo.  Soc.  ISo^,  p.  298),  and  are  compared  by 
McClintock  with  Ihe  sandstone  from  Byam  Martin's  Island  from  the  l)ase  of  the  Carboniferous. 
(Journal  Roy.  Dublin  Soc.  1857,  p.  199.) 

20.  Coarse  granitoid  gneiss  with  large  red  garnets  (12-14'"™).  Locality,  Cape  Isabella, 
Grinnell  Land. 

21.  Laminated  garnetiferous  gneiss  banded  with  Idack  mica.     Cape  Isabella, 

22.  Gray  granular  quartzite,  the  grains  separated  by  films  of  kaolin.      Cape  Isabella. 
•JoTimal  of  the  Royal  Dublin  Society,  July,  1860,  Vol.  Ill,  p.  .'')3. 


Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections.  5bl 

iferous,  and  farther  north  and  west  by  Jurassic  strata,  while  the  outcrops  in  and 
around  Frobislier  Bay  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  and  apparently  skirting 
the  crystalline  rocks,  are  dark  colored,  largely  arj^illaceous  inshore  deposits,  (con- 
taining a  very  different  assemblage  of  fossils  (though  of  about  the  same  age) 
from  the  more  western  localities,  viz :  Galymene  senaria,  Con. ;  Triarthriis  Becldi, 
Green  5  Endoceras  jjroteiforme,  H.,  tlattened  as  in  the  Utica  slate  Diplof/raptns 
dentatus,  Br.;  CUmacograpMs  quadrimucronatMs,  H.;  C.  hicornis,  H.;  Lingnla 
curta.,  H. 

The  localities  around  Frobislier  Bay  bear,  therefore,  somewhat  the  same 
relation  to  those  of  Prince  William's  Land  and  JJorth  Devon  which  the  typical 
localities  of  the  Utica  slate  and  the  Hudson  Elver  group  in  New  York  bear  to  the 
more  western  areas  of  the  Mississippi  Basin.  In  Frobisher  Bay  we  have  a 
group  of  fossils  unmixed  with  those  of  earlier  or  later  date,  which  mark  the 
exact  horizon  of  the  Utica  slate,  and  the  rocks  have  a  lithological  facies  recall- 
ing that  of  the  typical  localities  of  this  epoch  in  New  York.  In  the  north- 
western area  the  whole  Paleozoic  series  seems  to  be  represented  by  a  nearly 
unbroken  succession  of  limestones,  and  the  subdivisions  merge  into  each 
other  as  in  the  central  basin  of  the  United  States.  So  that  Houghton  says 
"  the  whole  of  North  Somerset,  Boothia  Felix,  King  William's  Land,  and  Prince 
of  Wales  Land  is  thus  proved  to  be  of  Silurian  age,  although  the  evidence  as  to 
whether  it  is  Upper  or  Lower  Silurian  is  contradictory,  as  characteristic  fossils  of 
both  epochs  are  found  throughout  the  whole  area."*  We  must,  however,  associate 
the  locality  at  the  extreme  upper  or  western  end  of  the  bay  already  alluded  to  as 
Silliman's  Fossil  Mount  with  the  calcarious  facies  of  the  Arctic  Silurian  as  described 
by  Houghton,  since  in  the  small  list  of  seven  species  published  by  Stevens  and 
quoted  above,  five  are  probably  identical  with  those  described  by  Houghton,  and 
the  two  others  are  corals,  described  as  new  species ;  so  that  this  locality  extends 
the  great  Arctic  limestone  area  greatly  to  the  southeast,  and  makes  it  compar- 
able in  size  with  the  central  basin  of  the  United  States. 

CRYSTALLINE  ROCKS. 
23.  Gkanite. 

A  large  and  a  small  mass  of  very  coarse  red  granite,  containing  deep  flesh- 
red  orthoclase  in  large  crystalline  masses,  a  much  smaller  amount  of  gray  quartz 
and  lepidomelane  in  black  and  greenish-black  scaly  corrugated  plates. 

Locality,  French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

"Loc.  cit.,  p.  53. 


558  Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections. 

24.  Granite. 

Ill  several  packages,  without  special  labels,  and  coming  probably  from 
Field  and  Grinnell  Bays,  there  were  above  a  dozen  specimens  of  the  same  coarse 
orthoclase-lepidomelane  granite  as  23,  showing  it  to  be  very  prevalent.  In  fact, 
many  of  the  descriptions  ot  rocks  given  by  Hall  wiU  apply  only  to  granite,  and, 
taken  in  connection  with  the  specimens  collected,  its  wide  distribution  is  placed 
beyond  doubt. 

Thus  in  his  first  excursion  in  Frank  Clark  Harbor,  on  the  south  side  of  Cor- 
nelius Grinnell  Bay,  after  mentioning  prominent  veins  of  white  quartz,  Hall 
says :  "  The  rocks  about  here  were  indeed  very  remarkable.  One  pile  consisted 
entirely  of  mica,  quartz,  and  feldspar,  and  the  nearest  approach  I  can  give  to  its 
appearance  is  to  let  the  imagination  conceive  that  the  feldspar  was  in  a  state 
like  puttj'^,  and  worked  up  into  various  uncouth  figures,  the  spaces  between  each 
being  filled  up  with  mica  and  quartz.  Then  would  there  be  an  appearance  to 
what  I  observed  on  these  rocks,  only  that  ages  and  ages  should  be  added  to  cut 
out  deeply  the  mica  and  quartz  [stands  thus  in  the  original],  leaving  the  i)ure 
<iuartz  veins  unafiected."    p.  112. 

At  Point  Tik-koon,  in  Countess  of  Warwick's  Sound,  he  mentions  "  granite, 
the  usual  high  old  rocks." 
2.5.  Granite. 

In  a  large  package  labeled  simply  "Azoic  Eocks,  Frobisher  Bay,"  and  con- 
taining many  fragments  of  Silurian  limestones  and  schistose  rocks,  there  were 
also  many  fragments  of  quartz  and  feldspar,  which  manifestly  came  from  a  very 
coarse  granite  of  a  much  lighter  color  than  that  last  mentioned. 

26.  Granite. 

Coarse  red  feldspar  granite  exactly  like  25. 
Locality,  Kuen-gum-mi-ooke. 

27.  Granite. 

A  typical  fine-grained  granite  of  deep  red  color,  (xray,  granular  quartz 
slightly  more  abundant  than  the  deep  tlesh-red  orthoclase.  The  latter  in  rounded 
crystalline  grains.    Dark  green  mica  in  minute  scales  and  pyrite  in  small  quantity. 

Locality,  Frobisher  Bay. 

28.  Pegmatite. 

Two  specimens  showing  deep  flesh-red  orthoclase  scattered  in  irregular 
crystalline  masses  through  gray  quartz,  the  quartz  greatly  predominating. 
Frobisher  Bay. 


Professor  Emerson  on  IlalVs  Geological  Collections.  559 

29.  Granite. 

A  pale  reddish  rock  very  fresh  in  the  interior  but  much  weathered  on  the 
exterior,  containing  a  fresh  transhicent  plagioclase  in  large  quantity,  limpid 
slightly  amethystine  quartz,  and  sparingly  black  shining  biotite. 

Locality,  Frobisher  Bay. 

30.  Gkanite. 

A  coarse-grained  granite,  containing  flesh-red  orthoclase  and  gray  plagio- 
clase in  large  masses,  dark  smoky  quartz  and  black  mica  in  small  quantity. 

From  a  package  labeled  "  From  various  places  up  Bay  of  Frobisher  and  near 
head  of  it." 

31.  Granite. 

A  peculiar  very  coarse-grained  leek-green  rock,  consisting  principally  of 
grayish  to  deep  leek-green  plagioclase,  in  large  cleavable  individuals,  showing 
very  fine  triclinic  striation,  gray  translucent  quartz,  very  little  flesh-colored  ortho- 
clase, and  large  contorted  plates  of  black  shiny  lepidomelane. 

Frobisher  Bay. 

32.  Granite. 

A  deep-red  rock,  fine-grained,  with  abundant  fresh  plagioclase,  orthoclase, 
black  biotite,  and  large  red  garnets. 
Frobisher  Bay. 

33.  Pyritiferous  &ranite. 

A  coarse-grained  very  quartzose  granite,  with  much  pyrite  in  large,  quite 
distinct,  crystals.  Biotite  and  feldsi>ar  occur  very  sparingly.  The  quartz  is 
smoky  to  slightly  amethystine.  By  the  decomposition  of  the  pyrite  the  rock  has 
upon  the  surface  and  in  the  fissures  a  very  rusty  and  glazed  appearance;  the  feld- 
spar is  changed  entirely  to  whitish  kaolin  and  the  biotite  to  rubellan. 

Locality,  French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

34.  Granite. 

A  black  mica  granite  passing  into  quartzite. 

35.  Granite. 

A  beautiful  fine-grained  granite  of  dark  color,  containing  abundantly  red 
brown  biotite  unusually  fresh  and  shining,  gray  quartz,  from  which  the  feldspar 
is  with  difficulty  distinguished. 
30.  Granite. 

A  very  granular  even-grained  rock,  containing  orthoclase,  quartz,  and  bio- 
tite in  about  equal  quantity. 

Labeled,  "  Azoic  Rocks,  Frobisher  Bay." 


56*0  Professor  Emerson  on  HalFs  Geological  Collections. 

37.  Gneiss. 

A  ftray  gTanitoid  biotite  j»;neiss. 
Xoitli  .side  of  Fiobislier  Bay. 

38.  Gneiss, 

A  lar;ic  water-woin  bowlder  of  tiesh-colored  biotite-gueiss  of  even  medium 
jLiiaiii,  and  quite  midecomposed. 

39.  Gneiss. 

A  large  fresh  piece  of  typical  gueiss,  flesh-colored  orthoclase,  and  more 
sparingly  gray  plagioclase,  fresh  black  biotite,  and  limpid  quartz.  A  single 
crystal  of  wine-yellow  titanite. 

Frobisher  Bay. 

40.  Gneiss. 

A  much  decomposed  biotite-gueiss. 
French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

41.  Magnetite  gneiss. 

A  large  unweathered  specimen  of  typical  granitoid  gneiss,  agreeing  exactly 
with  the  second  quality  of  the  rock  quarried  at  Westerly,  E.  I.;  flesh-colored 
orthoclase,  sparingly  gray  plagioclase,  fresh  black  biotite,  very  sparingly  rauscovite 
and  magnetite,  and  extremely  minute  crystals  of  pyrite. 

Frobisher  Bay. 

42.  Magnetite  gneiss. 

Same  as  41,  except  that  the  foliation  is  expressed  more  by  the  arrangement 
of  the  flesh -colored  orthoclase  in  bauds  and  less  by  the  position  of  the  biotite. 
Frobisher  Bay. 

43.  Magnetite  gisteiss. 

A  rock  of  medium  grain,  consisting  of  rounded  jiortions  of  orthoclase,  quartz, 
and  magnetite  of  about  equal  size  and  quantity,  without  trace  of  mica  or  any 
accessory.  The  rock  is  granitoid  in  texture,  yet  distinctly  foliated,  owing  to  the 
position  of  the  different  feldspar  crystals  ;  tinged  with  rust. 

Locality,  French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

44.  .Ma(jnetite  gneiss. 

A  large  freshly-broken  specimen  of  gray  gueiss.  In  a  reddish-white  mix- 
ture of  quartz  and  feldsi^ar  are  scattered  biotite  and  magnetite  in  imperfect  dodec- 
ahedrons, with  striated  faces  5-2  mm.  diameter.  The  magnetite  is  much  more 
abundant  than  the  biotite,  and  both  are  arranged  i)aralh'l  to  the  foliation  planes. 
A  \'ein  ol'  segregation  runs  through  the  specimens,  consisting  of  flesh-colored 


Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections.  5ft  1 

orthoclase,  gray  i)lagioclasG  and  quartz  much  more  coarsely  crystallized  than  in 
the  mass  of  the  rock. 
45.  Magnetite  gneiss. 

A  fine-grained  granitoid  gneiss,  having  at  first  sight  somewhat  the  appear- 
ance of  andesite.  The  pearl-gray  ground  mass  is  a  fine-grained  mixture  of  quartz 
and  a  feldspar,  mostly  triclinic,  and  scattered  in  this  abundantly  are  grains  of 
magnetite,  and  sparingly  brown  decomposed  biotite. 

French  Head,  Field  Bay. 
40.  Magnetite  gneiss. 

A  decomposed  granitoid  gneiss,  closely  resembling  43.  This  occurs  in  sev- 
eral large  pieces. 

47.  Magnetite  gneiss. 

Contains  orthoclase,  albite,  and  quartz  in  about  equal  quantities,  less  abun- 
dantly magnetite,  and  as  a  product  of  alteration  chlorite.  The  rock  is  fine- 
grained, fresh,  pale  flesh-colored,  mottled  with  spots  of  dark  green  color,  consist- 
ing of  magnetite  and  chlorite,  which  lie  in  the  x)lane  of  stratification.  The  chlorite 
fills  also  as  thin  seams  a  system  of  cleavage  cracks  passing  at  large  angle  to  the 
cleavage. 

Examined  in  thin  section,  the  feldspars  are  for  the  most  part  water  clear, 
showing  only  incipient  clouding  of  kaolin  on  fissures,  and  extremely  delicate  and 
minute  dentritic  infiltrations  of  ochre.  The  albite  is  predominant,  and  here  and 
there  grown  together  with  orthoclase.  The  quartz  contains  in  immense  numbers 
small  round  and  large  irregular  and  contorted  fluid  inclosures,  with  very  large 
bubbles,  moving  only  when  heated.  The  magnetite  grains — J  to  1  mm.  in 
diameter— are  surrounded  by  a  ring  of  bright  green  plates  of  chlorite,  and  from 
these  as  centers  the  chlorite  passes  outward  in  the  fissures,  producing  the  patches 
of  green  color. 

Locality,  Frobisher  Bay. 

48.  Magnetite  gneiss. 

A  fine-grained  granitoid  mixture  of  quartz,  orthoclase,  and  sparingly  a 
triclinic  feldspar,  to  which  granular  magnetite,  arranged  in  parallel  blotches,  gives 
a  rudely  gneissoid  structure.  This  and  the  foregoing  agree  exactly  with  the  Lau- 
rentian  gneisses  from  Grenville,  Canada. 

Labeled,  "  From  various  places  up  Bay  of  Frobisher  and  near  head  of  it." 

49.  Graphitic  gneiss. 

Two  large  and  many  small  specimens  of  a  decomposed  and  rusty  granitoid 
gneiss  of  a  grey  color  when  fresh.     It  contains  a  dark-brown  mica,  minute  crystals 
S.  Ex.  27 36 


562  Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections. 

of  magnetite,  and  much  disseminated  graphite  in  scales  up  to  1  mm.  in  size.  The 
rock  is  uniformly  much  decomposed,  and  coated  in  many  i^laces  with  a  secondary 
deposit  of  siderite  and  limonite. 

Various  places  in  Frobisher  Bay. 

50.  Epidotic  gneiss. 

Small  fragments  of  a  red  granitoid  gneiss  with  reticulated  veins  of  epidote, 
and  of  a  red  gneiss  passing  into  petrosilex  and  colored  apparently  by  epidote. 

51.  Schistose  gneiss. 

A  broad  freshly-broken  plate  of  very  thin-bedded  biotite  gneiss,  the  feldspar 
not  abundant  and  wholly  triclinic. 
Frobisher  Bay. 

52.  Geanulite. 

A  gTanitoid  gneiss,  wherein  red  garnets  (1-3  mm.)  replace  the  mica  entirely. 
Labeled,  "Azoic  Eocks,  Frobisher  Bay." 

53.  Banded  mica  schist. 

A  large  piece  of  schist,  containing  biotite  and  quartz,  arranged  in  black  hori- 
zontal bands,  1-12  mm.  wide,  of  fresh  black  biotite  and  granular  quartz,  the  inter- 
vening bands  containing  little  or  no  mica,  and  consisting  of  quartz  of  two  l^inds  : 
{a)  a  reddish  somewhat  friable  granular  quartz,  through  which  run  (&)  flat  plates 
of  a  gray  translucent  infiltrated  quartz,  placed  parallel  to  the  bedding,  and  mani- 
festly of  later  formation. 

54.  NOEMAL  mica  schist. 

A  typical  mica  schist  of  medium  grain  splitting  into  flat  thin  plates,  con- 
taining only  quartz  and  biotite  much  weathered. 

Labeled,  "  From  trench  dug  by  Martin  Frobisher,  1578.  Ni-oun-te-lilc.''''  This 
is  an  island  on  the  north  side  of  Frobisher  Bay. 

55.  Mica  schist. 

A  black  wavy  mica  schist,  consisting  of  black  to  bronze  colored  biotite,  with 
little  quartz. 

Labeled,  "  French  Head,  Field  Bay." 
5G.  Mica  schist. 

A  rock  agreeing  closely  with  i)o^  but  containing  juore  quartz  and  a  little 
feldspar. 

Labeled,  "From  various  places  up  Bay  of  Frobisher  and  near  head  of  it." 
58.  Petuosilex. 

A  band  of  blactk  compact  hornstone  IS  mm.  wide  rnns  tiirougli  a  i)icce  of 


Professor  Emerson  on  IlaWs  Geological  Collections.  563 

black  mica  granite  like  No.  35.    It  has  splintery  fracture,  and  shows  glistening 
points  of  quartz  upon  fresh  surfaces. 
51).  Petrosilex. 

A  fresh  leek-green  felsite  or  petrosilex  weathering  white,  agreeing  closely 
with  the  green  petrosilex  from  Pelham,  Mass.,  which  has  passed  under  the  name 
of  "Shay's  flint:"  and  this  rock  proves,  like  that  from  Pelham,  to  be  a  very 
fine-grained  silicious  variety  of  horublendic  gneiss.  This  conclusion  is  based  on 
a  study  of  thin  sections  of  both  varieties. 
GO.  Banded  hornblendic  gneiss. 

Greenish -black  granular  hornblende,  granular  quartz,  and  some  feldspar, 
mostly  triclinic.  The  banded  structure  is  caused  by  the  interijosition  of  more 
compact  layers  of  quartz  and  feldspar;  a  little  biotite  present  in  brown  decom- 
posed scales. 

61.  Banded  hornblendic  gneiss. 

A  large  mass  similar  to  60,  the  dark  layers  finer  grained,  and  the  quartz- 
feldspar  layers  thick  and  irregular. 

62.  Hornblendic  gneiss. 

A  thin  laminated  rock,  containing  abundantly  white  to  greenish  muscovite, 
dark  brown  hornblende,  quartz,  and  feldspar ;  the  latter  in  one  instance  triclinic. 
The  very  bright  pearly  luster  of  the  mica  gives  the  rock  a  peculiar  sheen  upon 
the  cleavage  face  which  disappears  entirely  in  other  directions. 

Labeled,  "  Azoic  Eocks,  Probisher  Bay." 

63.  Hornblendic  gneiss. 

Granitoid,  with  white  and  red  feldspar,  black  granular  hornblende,  and 
green  mica. 

Locality,  French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

64.  Foliated  hornblendic  gneiss. 

Thin  folia  of  black  to  greenish-black  hornblende,  separate  broader  bands  of 
a  mixture  of  milk-white  orthoclase  and  quartz,  forming  a  rock  of  very  attractive 
appearance. 

65.  Syenite. 

Granitoid  and  of  medium  grain.    The  rounded  spots  of  white  orthoclase 
stand  out  on  a  background  of  blackish-green  hornblende. 
Labeled,  "  Azoic  Eocks,  Frobisher  Bay." 

66.  Hornblende  schist. 

Several  pieces  of  schist,  consisting  of  black  granular  hornblende  and  quartz, 
in  one  case  containing  a  little  triclinic  feldspar  and  chalcopyrite. 


564  Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  GeolofficaJ  Collections 

Labeled,  ''  Azoic  Rocks,  Frobisher  Bay." 
C7.  Hornblende  schist. 

Several  j)ieces  resembling  GO,  but  finer  grained  and  more  scbistose. 
Labeled,  "  From  various  places  uj)  Bay  of  Frobisher  and  near  head  of  it." 

G8.   QUAKTZITE. 

Three  large  masses  of  a  compact  jaspery  quartzite  of  deep  red  color  and 
broad  conchoidal  fi'acture.  They  are  only  slightly  banded  by  a  slight  concentra- 
tion of  the  iron  in  broad  bands,  and  are  remarkably  homogeneous,  and  free  from 
any  other  impurities  except  the  red  oxyde  of  iron.  They  were  marked  (1)  in  ink, 
and  seem  to  me  to  have  been  gathered  by  Hall  during  his  first  long  excursion 
along  the  north  shore  of  Frobisher  Bay,  but  of  this  I  cannot  be  certain. 

69.  QUAETZITE. 

Several  pieces  of  a  rusty-red  quartz  sandstone,  which  seem  to  be  only 
weathered  pieces  of  the  same  kind  as  68. 

70.  Quartzite. 

A  water-worn  pebble  of  a  similar  deep  red  quartzite,  slightly  micaceous, 
from  French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

The  rocks  described  under  the  last  three  numbers  might  almost  as  well 
have  been  associated  with  the  Devonian  sandstone  of  Lupton  Sound,  described 
later  (]Slo.  108),  or  the  sandstone  from  Cape  Alexander  (vide  ante  No.  19).  It  is, 
however,  much  more  indurated,  especially  l!^o.  68,  and  has  a  much  older  look. 

MINEEALS  AND  ORES. 

71.  Quartz. 

Four  large  pieces  of  translucent  vein  quartz. 
From  French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

72.  (Quartz. 

White  translucent  vein  quartz. 

Labeled,  "  From  various  places  up  Bay  of  Frobisher  and  near  head  of  it." 
7;3.  Quartz. 

A  fine  piece  of  rose  quartz  and  another  of  smoky  quartz. 
I'rom  Frobisher  Bay. 

74.  Apatite. 

Rounded  grains  of  green  apatite  in  white  orthoclase. 

Kuen-gum-mi-ooke. 

Frobisher  Bay. 

75.  (lARNET. 

A  cleavage  piece  of  u  large  deep  red  crystal  of  albandite. 
French  Head,  Field  Bay. 


Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections.  565 

70.  Graphite. 

Several  large  pieces  of  perfectly  pure  soft  graphite;  one  also  still  inclosed 
in  quartz.  In  a  bundle  marked  "  (a)  Azoic  Kocks,"  by  Ilall,  with  fragjnents  of 
Silurian  limestones. 

77.  BlOTITE. 

A  large  crystal  75  mm.  long,  50  mm.  wide,  and  40  nun  tliick,  with  irregular 
sides.  Adhering  to  one  side  is  a  portion  of  clear  orthoclase,  variety  sunstone.  On 
another  side  another  portion  of  the  same  feldspar  contains  many  small  wine-yel- 
low Zircons.  The  crystal  is  also  penetrated  by  i)lates  5-10  mm.  broad,  of  a  leek- 
green  mineral,  brittle,  with  bronze  luster  and  eminent  cleavage.  Under  the 
microscope  it  shows  two  cleavages  at  right  angles  and  a  third,  prismatic,  between 
these,  making  an  angle  of  120°  45',  and  contains  abundant  inclosures  arranged 
l>aralled  to  the  rectangular  cleavages.  These  properties  make  it  quite  certain 
that  the  mineral  is  diallage. 

Frobisher  Bay. 

iron  ores. 

78.  Magnetite. 

Several  i)ieces  of  magnetite  in  quartz ;  one  part  of  a  large  crystal  with  a 
piece  of  iron  slag  and  two  pieces  of  limpid  quartz.  The  label  reads,  "Much 
like  to  a  sea-coal  in  color.  From  Little  Bay,  Ek-ke-lu-zhun,  on  cape  or  point 
where  I  found  coal  of  Frobisher  Expedition  of  1578,  Tues.,  Sept.  24,  'Gl.  Hall." 
The  quotation  below,  from  page  432  of  Hall's  Narrative,  explains  the  above: 
"Ek-ke-lu-zhun,  Victoria  Bay.  Embedded  in  the  rocks  I  found  some  heavy 
black  substances,  larger  and  more  numerous  than  any  I  had  before  seen.  These 
I  concluded  might  be  the  '  stone  like  to  sea-coal '  described  by  Frobisher  in  the 
account  of  his  voyages." 

79.  Magnetite. 

A  larger  piece  from  the  same  locality — part  of  a  large  crystal  in  limpid 
quartz.  Label,  "  Like  to  sea-coal  in  color."  Ek-ker-lu-zhuu.  This  label  is  written 
on  the  550th  page  of  Little  Dorrit. 

80.  Magnetite. 

Large  piece  of  pure  crystalline  magnetite. 
Kuen-gum-mi-ooke. 

81.  Magnetite. 

Three  pieces  like  80. 
French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

82.  Magnetite. 

Three  large  pieces  marked  (a). 


566  Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections. 

83.  Magnetite. 

A  large  mass,  weighiug  several  pounds,  part  of  a  large  imperfect  crystal  in 
quartz.  The  ore  and  quartz  gangue  like  that  from  Ek-ker-lu-zhun.  This  and 
the  last  may  be  from  one  of  the  localities  mentioned  by  Hall  in  the  Narrative  as 
— ,  page  328 :  "  This  p.  m.  I  visited  Cooper's  Island,  and  with  chisel  and  hammer 
dug  out  some  of  the  black  ore,  such  as  was  discovered  by  Frobisher's  Expedition 
in  1578,  with  which  many  of  his  ships  were  laden.  This  ore  attracts  and  repels 
the  magnetic  needle  about  like  iron.  It  is  very  heavy."  The  importance  of  iron 
ore  in  itself  and  its  connection  with  Frobisher's  Expedition  made  Hall  care- 
ful to  coUect  it  everywhere.  It  is  manifestly  very  abundant  both  in  the  gneisses 
of  the  region  and  in  separate  beds. 

84.  Lemonite. 

Several  fragments  of  limonite,  cementing  quartz  and  mica,  and  arising 
apparently  from  the  decomposition  of  granitic  rocks,  and  representing  a  deposit  of 
no  great  extent. 
84^.  Pyrite. 

A  number  of  fragments  in  quartz. 

Locality,  Frobisher  Bay. 

85.  Pyrite. 

A  large  mass  of  very  tough  bluish-black  quartz,  full  of  pyrite. 

86.  Pyrite. 

Three  well-worn  pieces  of  pyrite,  used  by  the  natives  for  striking  fire. 
"With  these  was  another  piece  of  magnetite,  labeled  "  Obtained  from  the  natives." 
Hall  also  mentions  iron  j^yrites  at  Gold  Cove,  Frobisher  Bay  (p.  230). 

COPPER   ORES. 

87.  BORNITE. 

Several  pieces  of  pure  bornite,  of  fine  color,  and  a  number  of  fragments  of 
quartz  with  bornite  disseminated  through  the  mass. 
French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

88.  Bornite. 

A  curious  pseudo-conglomerate  or  vein-stone  breccia  of  quartz  masses,  about 
the  size  of  peas,  cemented  by  a  paste  of  bornite  so  abundant  as  to  separate  each 
grain  of  quartz  widely  from  every  other. 

French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

89.  Chalcopyrite. 

Several  pieces  of  a  granular  aggregate  of  quartz  and  black  hornblende,  in 


Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections.  567 

whicli  clialcopyrite  occurs  disseminated.    Tlie  rock  is  tinged  green  with  malachite 
from  its  decomposition. 

French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

90.  Chalcopyrite. 

Several  pieces  exactly  the  same  as  88. 
Labeled,  "  Stones  from  Kuen-gum-mi-ooke." 

91.  Chalcopyrite. 

Galena,  siderite,  pyrite.    A  weathered  piece,  containing  amber-colored  side- 
rite,  with  the  other  minerals  mentioned  above. 
French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

92.  Steatite. 

A  greenish-white  compact  talc,  pale  slaty-blue  externally,  with  much  hair- 
brown  phlogopite. 

Labeled,  "At  the  coal  found  up  Little  Bay  ten  miles  from  Ni-un-ti-lik." 

93.  Corundum. 

A  mass  larger  than  a  hen's  egg  of  matted  crystalline  plates  of  a  light  pis- 
tachio green  margarite,  externally  weathered  to  pale  straw  color.  This  incloses 
crystalline  portions  of  a  deep  clear  cobalt-blue  sapphire,  making  about  one-third 
the  mass.  The  sapphire  is  very  brittle,  easily  cleavable,  and  shows  imperfect 
crystalline  forms  where  it  projects  into  cavities  in  the  margarite.  It  is  in  places 
separated  from  the  margarite  by  a  thin  layer  of  white  calcite.  The  margarite 
melts  under  the  blowpipe  to  a  white  botryoidal  enamel. 

CALCAEEOUS  EOCKS  AND  ASSOCIATED  MINEEALS. 

94.  Granular  limestone. 

Thin  j)ieces  of  a  fine  even-grained  statuary  marble,  pure  white  and  without 
impurities.  It  was  manifestly  iuterstratified  with  a  soft  green  hydrous  mica 
schist  which  still  remains  attached  to  one  surface.  With  it  were  pieces  of  coarse 
granular  limestone  containing  grains  of  pale-green  coccolite. 

French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

95.  Granular  limestone  with  coccolite. 

A  rock  consisting  of  white  calcite,  pale  green  to  bottle  green  and  olive  green; 
coccolite  in  rounded  grains,  with  fused  surfaces;  bronze-colored  phlogopite,  and 
rarely  grains  of  colophonite  and  spinel.  The  three  constituents  are  present  in 
about  equal  quantity,  have  about  the  same  average  size  (2-6  mm.),  and  are  so 
mixed  as  to  form  a  massive  granular  rock  which  simulates  granite  perfectly. 

Frobisher  Bay.  / 


5fi8  Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections. 

90.   GliANULAll  LIIMESTONE. 

The  contents  of  this  parcel  were  manifestly  scraped  \\\)  from  the  foot  of  a 
limestone  cliff  where  it  was  exposed  to  the  action  of  the  sea,  and  includes,  beside 
the  limestone  and  its  contents,  fragments  of  adularia  and  of  a  very  ferruginous 
quartzite.  The  limestone  is  white,  coarsely  granular,  and  very  crystalline,  and 
contains  (1)  coccolite,  disseminated  in  grains  .1  to  2  mm.  in  diameter,  and  rounded 
exteriorly  as  if  fused.  The  color  of  these  grains  is  a  deep  bottle-green.  They 
are  transparent  to  translucent;  (2)  quartz,  with  rounded  fused  faces ;  (3)  minute  red 
spinal  rubies,  octahedra,  with  rounded  edges ;  (4,)  phlogopite  in  small  prisms  wdth 
rounded  prism  faces,  and  of  pale  plum  color  to  bronze  and  dull  yellow  on  the 
cleavage  faces. 

From  White  Island  on  the  south  side  of  Frobisher  Bay,  near  the  head  of  it. 

97.  Coccolite. 

Large  mass  of  fresh  dark-green  to  blackish-green  coarse  coccolite. 
From  parcel  labeled,  "  From  various  places  up  Frobisher  Bay  and  near  the 
head  of  it." 

98.  Coccolite. 

A  finer-grained  somewhat  weathered  green  coccolite. 

French  Head,  Field  B.iy. 

The  resemblance  of  the  series  of  rocks  here  described  to  the  Laurentian  of 

Canada  and  the  Adirondacks  and  to  the  Montalban  of  New  Hampshire  and 

Massachusetts  is  very  marked.    The  typical  Labradorian  rocks  are  absent.    The 

dark-red  massive  quartzites  agree  well  with  the  Canadian  quartzites  of  Huron- 

ian  age. 

ERUPTIVE  ROCKS. 

99.  QUARTZDIORITE. 

A  grayish-black,  compact,  trap-like  rock,  seemingly  quite  fresh,  but  effer- 
vescing with  acids.  In  powder  blackish,  with  shade  of  green.  The  rock  is  almost 
aphanitic  with  glimmering  luster ;  with  a  lens  the  feldspar  crystals  can  be  seen 
as  extremely  fine  lines.  In  sections  plagioclase  in  interlaced  crystals,  mostly 
elongated,  is  seen  to  make  up  the  mass  of  the  rock,  in  the  interstices  between 
wliidi  the  other  constituents  appear.  The  feldspar  is  opaque — white  by  reflected, 
pale  brown  Ijy  transmitted,  light,  being  filled  with  a  pale  yellowish-brown  dust, 
which  is  sometimes  spread  over  the  whole  surface  of  the  section.  More  often, 
Ii(jw('\er,  there  is  upon  this  as  a  back  ground  a  system  of  darker  brown  lines, 
])arallel  to  the  greatest  length  of  the  crystal,  formed  by  an  accumulation  of  the 
same  material  along  the  lines  of  boundary  between  the  separate  laminai  of  which 
the  crystal  is  composed  (parallel  to  c/)  O  co),  and  to  this  is  superadded  in  many 


Professor  Emerson  on  IlalVs  Geological  Collections.  569 

crystals  a  second  system  of  lines  exactly  like  and  at  rijjht-angles  to  tlie  first. 
This  second  set  of  lines  is,  however,  usually  only  partly  developed,  appearing  only 
on  part  of  the  crystal  or  some  of  the  lines  running  only  part  way  across  the  same. 
The  lines  themselves  are  generally  more  evenly  spaced,  more  rigidly  straight,  and 
finer  than  the  other.  In  rare  cases  they  are  coarser  and  better  developed. 
Finally,  some  crystals  show  a  beautifully  i^erfect  and  deli(*ate  lattice-work,  all  the 
meshes  appearing  to  the  eye  exact  squares.  The  second  set  of  lines  runs  parallel 
to  0  P.  In  agreement  with  this,  the  crystals,  when  examined  with  polarized 
light,  prove  to  be  polysynthetically  twined  parallel  to  co  P  cb  and  O  P.  Some  of  the 
crystals  also  show  distinct  cleavage  planes  parallel  to  the  prism  faces,  and  an 
arrangement  of  the  same  particles  in  these  planes.  Only  with  a  Tolles  lens,  of  the 
best  definition  and  a  power  of  1,600,  was  it  possible  to  resolve  these  lines  into 
their  constituents.  They  prove  to  be  made  up  of  a  multitude  of  pale-red  trans- 
parent plates,  with  rounded  outline,  which  appear  as  black  spots  when  in  the 
slightest  degree  out  of  focus,  disappearing  almost  instantly,  their  place  being 
taken  by  others  not  in  the  same  plane.  A  few  elongated  microlites,  apparently 
hornblende  and  much  larger,  are  arranged  in  the  same  plane  with  the  smaller 
plates,  but  there  is  no  passage  from  the  one  to  the  other.  The  small  jjlates  seem 
to  be  hematite.  The  blackish-brown  hornblende  in  broad  crystals  incloses  much 
well-crystallized  magnetite,  many  hornblende  microlites,  also  cavities  with  mo- 
tionless bubbles,  and  is  overgrown  and  often  almost  entirely  changed  into  grass- 
green  scaly  viridite,  which  has  also  passed  into  all  fissures  in  and  between 
the  feldspar  crystals.  Quartz  in  small  rounded  grains  is  evenly  distributed 
through  the  whole,  and  filled  with  fine  magnetite  crystals,  pale-green  hornblende, 
and  much  smaller  and  longer  apatite  microlites,  which  sometimes  pass  with  great 
regularity  from  all  parts  of  the  surface  of  the  grain  toward  the  center.  In  one 
piece  long  fine  red  needles  of  goethite  occupy  fissures. 

A  few  crystals  of  olivine  and  masses  that  seem  to  have  arisen  from  its 
decomposition  occur;  also  minute  secondary  aggregations  mixed  with  ^i^idite 
occur. 

Magnetite  occurs  in  large  aggregations  among  as  well  as  in  the  other  con- 
stituents. 

The  minerals  present  in  the  rock  in  the  order  of  their  frequency  are  oligo- 
clase  viridite,  hornblende,  magnetite,  quartz,  hematite,  ?  calcite,  apatite. 
Tkap-granulite. 

Trap-gramilit.     Lasaulx.     Elemeute  der  Petrographie,  p.  348. 

Diallage-grauulit.    Dathe.    Die  Diallagcgranulite  der  Siiclisischcn  granulit-t'ormatioii.    Zeit. 
D.  g.  G.  xxix,  p.  274,  1877. 
A  large  block  of  a  massive  brownish-black  trap-like  rock,  breaking  with 


570  Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections. 

broad  conclioidal  fracture,  and  when  raoistened  slightly  mottled  with  green  and 
brown.  It  api)ears  quite  fresh  in  the  interior,  but  eflervesees  with  acids.  On  the 
outside  is  a  light  reddish-gray  layer  of  decomposition  2  mm.  thick.  On  the  fresh 
surface  it  has  a  glistening  luster,  and  with  the  lens  one  detects  minute  scales  of 
rubellan,  fine  needles  of  hornblende,  and  roundish  spots  of  reddish  color,  which 
prove  to  be  garnets.  A  few  small  cavities  have  been  filled  with  a  whitish  mixture 
of  calcite  and  a  zeolite,  in  which  radiating  needles  of  shining  black  secondary  horn- 
blende appear.  The  rock  aftbrds  a  reddish-gray  powder  and  fuses  at  3  to  a  whit- 
ish enamel.  The  powder  treated  with  acid  and  examined  under  the  microscope 
shows  only  slight  changes ;  a  small  quantity  of  ocher  and  calcite  is  removed. 
Examined  in  thin  section,  the  rock  is  found  to  contain  the  following  minerals: 
Garnet,  which  makes  up  more  than  half  the  mass;  biotite  next  in  abundance; 
then  hornblende  and  \iridite,  and  more  rarely  apatite,  hematite,  calcite,  magne- 
tite, and  a  zeolite.  Cyanite  occurs  in  long  flat  crystals,  transparent,  brilliant, 
cut  across  by  broad  cleavage  fissures  filled  with  viridite.  It  polarizes  with  great 
beauty;  occurs  commonly  in  mica.  The  garnets  are  scattered  through  the  whole 
mass,  gathered  in  small  groups  or  occurring  singly,  separated  from  each  other  by 
mica  and  hornblende.  Many  large  garnets  occur  also  in  the  mica.  They  occur 
mostly  in  rounded  grains  up  to  .45  mm.  in  diameter.  Imperfect  four,  six,  and  eight 
sided  cross- sections  are  not  rare,  and  the  smaller  crystals  inclosed  in  the  larger 
and  especially  in  the  mica  are  often  perfect  rhombic  dodecahedrons.  The  sec- 
tions of  the  crystals  appear  moderately  magnified  a  pale  reddish-brown  to  Isa- 
bella-yellow, being  more  or  less  clouded  with  a  brown  dust,  except  at  the  narrow 
border,  where  they  are  quite  pellucid  and  colorless  or  show  a  faint  tinge  of  violet. 
The  transparent  portions  are  stiU  isotrope,  and  the  central  portions  show  aggTe- 
gate  polarization,  but  when  highly  magnified  it  is  seen  that  the  transparent  gar- 
net substance  predominates  in  most  crystals.  In  a  few  cases  the  decomposition 
proceeds  from  the  circumference,  and  the  center  is  still  quite  transparent.  The 
dust  is  made  up  of  chlorite  plates,  blood-red  hematite  scales,  and  amorphous 
grains. 

Many  smaU  perfect  dodecahedra  inclosed  in  the  larger  garnets  are  of  bright 
lemon-yellow  color,  and  show  distinctly  cleavage  after  oo  O.  Thej'  are  of  the 
same  yellow  color  throughout,  and  show  no  tendency  to  the  accumulation  of 
granular  matter  at  the  center.  Many — apparently  hornblende — microlites,  ar- 
ranged in  an  irregular  net- work,  are  found  in  them,  sometimes  passing  out  into 
the  surrounding  mica. 

Ifext  in  abundance  is  rubellan,  in  broad,  fresh,  transparent  plates,  bright 
hyacinth  red  to  deep  blood  red,  separating  the  groups  of  garnets  from  one 


Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections.  571 

auother,  aud  inclosing  large  crystals  of  all  the  other  constituents,  especially 
garnet  and  hornblende.  Often  several  garnets  or  large  crystals  of  hornblende 
lie  wholly  or  partly  inclosed  in  a  single  mica  crystal,  or,  in  the  case  of  the  horn- 
blende, run  entirely  across  and  divide  the  crystal  into  several  parts. 

Besides  these  larger  inclosures,  there  occur  in  great  numbers  long  tlat  micro- 
lites,  irregularly  arranged,  and  which  seem  to  be  themselves  of  mi(iaceous  nature, 
long  fine  apatite  needles,  and  rarely  grains  of  magnetite  or  blood-red  scales  of 
hematite.  The  blood-red  color  occurs  where  the  cleavage  lines  are  lacking,  and 
the  0  P  face  is  parallel  to  the  section  i)lane,  while  crystals  cut  i^arallel  to  the 
principal  axis,  and  showing  strongly  the  cleavage  lines,  are  light  brownish  yel- 
low. In  the  latter  case  the  mineral  is  strongly  dichroic.  The  mineral  is  remark- 
ably fresh  and  clear  in  appearance,  but  is  bordered  by  blackish-green  fibrous 
viridite. 

The  hornblende  occurs  in  groups  of  elongated  crystals,  often  fibrous  and 
brush-like  at  their  ends.  It  is  mostly  grass  green,  sometimes  grass  green  and 
smoke  brown  at  one  end  aud  colorless  at  the  other.  It  accompanies  the  rubellan, 
but  is  less  abundant. 

A  blackish  to  grayish-green  fibrous  viridite  surrounds  many  of  the  garnets, 
and  is  accumulated  abundantly  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  rubellan  and  horn- 
blende, from  which  one  would  not  easily  distinguish  it  if  it  were  not  for  its  slight 
absorption. 

Several  small  portions  of  quartz  and  very  rarely  a  grain  of  magnetite  com- 
plete the  list  of  the  minerals  observed. 

102.  Trap-granulite. 

Not  to  be  distinguished  microscopically  from  the  preceding  rock,  except  in 
containing  finely-disseminated  pyrite. 

Thin  sections  show  the  garnets  to  be  more  decomposed,  so  that  there  is  no 
clear  rim  left ;  also  the  smaller  garnets  inclosed  in  the  larger  are  much  decom- 
posed. In  the  mica,  which  is  exactly  like  that  in  the  foregoing,  very  many  small, 
perfectly  clear,  hexagonal  cross-sections  of  apatite  occur.  Single  plates  of  diallage 
occur.  The  section  contains  aggregations  of  hornblende,  grass  green  or  smoke 
browu  at  one  end  and  colorless  at  the  other,  x)rojecting  into  calcite,  which  fills 
free  spaces  in  the  mica,  and  is  transparent,  shoAving  the  cleavage  sharply.  With 
the  hornblende  is  associated  spinel,  in  separate  octahedra,  sharply  built  out  and 
in  crystalline  groups  of  a  deep  cobalt  to  plum-blue  color. 

103.  Trap-granulite. 

This  is  a  coarser  grained  variety,  but  difiers  in  no  other  respect  microscopic- 
ally from  No.  101.     The  garnets,  which  are  the  principal  ingredient,  are  distinctly 


572  Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections. 

divisible  into  two  groups,  large  and  small,  respectively,  about  ^  and  2  times  as 
large  as  in  No.  101.  Decomposition  has  not  proceeded  so  far,  the  crystals  being 
quite  translucent,  of  a  faint  ocher-yellow  color,  and  in  large  part  isotrope.  One 
of  the  larger  and  many  of  the  smaller  show  perfect  eight-sided  cross  sections. 
Manj^  of  the  larger  crystals  are  grown  together  in  groups  of  two  and  three,  a  little 
more  than  half  of  each  being  present.  The  larger  crystals  are  affected  in  various 
ways  bj'  decomposition ;  some  have  the  center  clouded  with  ocher-yellow,  bounded 
by  a  clear  ring,  and  this  by  a  ring  of  blood -red  rubellan  in  minute  closely  aggre- 
gated crystals,  which  project  into  the  clear  ring.  Others  having  the  exterior 
ring  of  rubellan  are  in  the  interior  clouded  more  or  less  with  a  green  material. 
In  others  this  green  material  is  gathered  at  the  center,  having  a  clear  yellow 
area  between  it  and  the  outer  ring  of  rubellan.  In  others  a  pale  grass  green 
spreads  over  the  whole,  and  finally  the  whole  crystal  is  changed  into  a  bright 
grass-green  viridite,  arranged  in  wavy  masses,  which  recall  the  fluidal  structure 
of  obsidians.  Cyanite  occurs  in  smaller  crystals  than  in  Xo.  101,  with  rectangular 
cross  sections.  It  polarizes  brilliantly.  Magnetite  is  abundant.  The  contrast 
of  the  bright  green  of  the  viridite,  the  deep  blood  red  of  the  rubellan  upon  the 
pale  amber  background  of  garnet,  makes  this  a  ^'ery  beautiful  object  under  the 
microscope. 
104.  Trap-granuute. 

This  rock  is  like  No.  101  in  appeaiance,  and  came  probably  from  another 
portion  of  the  same  mass.  It  is,  however,  much  more  weathered  and  pitted  super- 
ficially by  the  eating  out  of  calcite,  which  had  filled  cavities  in  the  rock.  Eounded 
grains  of  quartz  project  from  the  surface.  Many  of  the  cavities  are  not  wholly 
emptied,  there  remaining  a  soft  pulverulent  mass,  which  efi'ervesces  freely  with 
acid  and  is  wholly  dissolved.  Black  needles  of  hornblende,  like  the  calcite  of 
secondary  origin  project  into  the  latter.  With  tlie  lens  one  sees,  especially 
when  the  rock  is  moistened,  rubellan,  hornblende  and  light  gray  spots,  which 
resemble  the  flesh-colored  ones  seen  in  No.  101,  and  which  are,  as  in  that  case, 
garnet. 

The  whole  rock  efl:ervesces  abundantly  with  acid,  irnder  the  microscope 
the  section  is  much  clearer,  the  rubellan  more  scattered  and  in  larger  crystals, 
the  rest  more  uniform  and  homogeneous  in  appearance  than  in  No.  101.  The 
ground  color  is  pale  ocher-yellow,  clouded  with  darker  shades  of  the  same  color. 
The  ground  shows  distinct  traces  of  tesseral  forms,  and  remains  dark  under 
crossed  Nicols.  In  tlie  mica  small  transparent  garnets  occur.  Tlie  rubellan 
occurs  in  large  clear  pieces  deep  blood-red  and  dark  orange,  inclosing,  (besides 
garnets,)  hornblende,  and  needles  of  apatite;  and  often  bordered  by  magnetite. 


Professor  Emerson  on  lialVs  Geological  Collections.  bl'6 

The  hornblende  is  for  the  most  part  deep  green.  Some  crystals  are  reddish  at 
one  end,  colorless  in  the  middle,  and  green  at  the  other.  They  show  cross  sections 
of  124°.  Diallage  in  pale  yellow  crystals,  with  characteristic  inclosures,  i>lagioclase 
in  one  or  two  large  crystals  and  orthoclase  grown  fibrous  from  decomposition  were 
also  present. 

105.  Trap  GrRANULlTE. 

This  is  a  fresh  fine-grained  piece  of  the  same  rock,  which  shows  a  distinct 
separation  into  plates  half  an  inch  thick  by  a  rude  cleavage,  which  is  not  accom- 
panied by  any  parallelism  in  the  arrangement  of  the  constituents.  Under  the 
microscope  it  shows  all  the  minerals  mentioned  under  the  last  rock  described,  and 
the  resemblance  is  so  close  as  to  render  a  special  description  superfluous. 

106.  TRAP-aRANTJLITE. 

This  piece  is  very  much  weathered,  of  a  light  chocolate  color,  mottled  with 
large  spots  of  a  whitish  substance,  filled  with  blackish  and  greenish  grains.  The 
colorless  spaces  prove  in  their  section  to  be  amygdaloidal  cavities,  filled  with  an 
outer  layer  of  milk-white  zeolite  and  an  inner  layer  of  quartz ;  both  are  filled  with 
scales  of  viridite.  The  rest  of  the  mass  is  much  decomposed,  but  seems  to  have 
been  originally  the  same  as  those  above  described. 

107.  TRAP-aRANULITE. 

A  small  much  weathered  i)iece. 

Labeled,  "  Found  on  the  route  between  Eescue  Harbor  and  Or-pung-ne-wing, 
an  island  in  Frobisher  Bay.     C.  F.  Hall." 

SEDIMENTARY  ROCKS. 

108.  Sandstone. 

A  slab  12  by  15  inches,  of  a  medium-grained  rusty -brown  flagstone,  the  sur- 
face covered  with  ripple-marks  25  mm.  apart.  The  crests  of  the  ripple-marks  are 
weathered  ocher  yellow. 

Labeled,  "  Sandstone,  with  ripple-marks.     Lupton  Channel.     Silurian." 

The  following  extracts  from  Hall's  Narrative  refer  to  this  rock:  "On  arriv- 
ing at  the  next  place  of  encampment,  the  last  before  reaching  the  harbor,  where 
I  had  left  the  ship,  the  Innuits  informed  me  that  it  was  called  Shar-toe-wik-toe, 
from  a  natural  breakwater  of  thin  or  plate  stone,  the  native  word  meaning  "  thin, 
flat  stone."  It  is  on  a  tongue  of  land  nearly  surrounded  by  water,  on  the  west  side 
of  Lupton  Channel."     (p.  439.) 

Hall  also  mentions  that  as  he  stopped  in  Lupton  Channel  on  his  way  home, 
an  old  Innuit  woman  brought  on  board  as  a  present  a  fish  upon  a  slab  of  red 
sandstone. 


574  Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections. 

The  rock  seems  to  be  the  same  with  those  of  Cape  Alexander,  "Wolston- 
holme  Sound,  and  Byam  Martin's  Island,  and  is  probably  from  the  base  of  the 
Carboniferous. 

109.   LOIESTONE. 

A  gray  crinoidal  limestone,  made  up  of  comminuted  fragments  of  corals  and 
crinoids,  all  indistinguishable.  Lower  Silurian?  near  head  of  Frobisher  Bay. 
The  ostracoids  mentioned  beyond  occur  in  a  similar  drab  limestone. 

110.  LraiESTONE. 

A  very  compact  red-gray  limestone,  deeply  corroded  by  sea- water.  Lower 
Silurian.    Locality,  O in-seen-o-ping ;  partly  illegible. 

111.  Lmiestone. 

A  large  flat  piece  of  a  compact  even-bedded  dark  redtlish-gray  limestone, 
breaking  with  large  conchoidal  fracture,  and  containing,  besides  minute  fragments 
of  coal,  part  of  the  last  whorl  of  a  large  longitudinally  striated  univalve.  Lower 
Silurian. 

Locality,  Frobisher  Bay. 

112.  Limestone. 

A  deep  black,  massive,  flinty,  bituminous  limestone,  effervescing  abundantly 
with  acid,  with  perfect  conchoidal  fracture,  weathering  white  externally  to  a  dis- 
tance of  .5-2  mm.  TJtica  slate.    Localities,  Frobisher  Bay,  Kun-gum-mi-ooke. 

113.  Ldiestone. 

A  dark  brown,  thin-bedded  flinty  limestone,  with  spots  of  coaly  matter  from 
graplotites,  Utica  slate. 

Localities,  Frobisher  Bay.  French  Head  in  Field  Bay.  Fragments  of  the 
limestones  Nos.  112  and  113  were  also  present  in  abundance  from  many  other 
points  in  Field  and  Frobisher  Bay  without  special  labels,  and  contain  all  the  Utica 
slate  trilobites  and  graptolites  found  in  the  collection. 

114.  Dolomite. 

A  large  mass  of  a  ragged  cavernous  dolomite,  very  harsh  to  the  feel,  dull 
gray  in  the  interior,  but  in  large  part  rusty. 
Frobisher  Bay. 

115.  Dolomite. 

A  large  mass  of  compact  buff  dolomite,  clouded  with  bands  of  smoke  gray, 
containing  crinoid  stems,  Halysites  catenulata,  Pentamerus  conchidium,  Dal. 
Ui)per  Silurian. 

Locality,  Rescue  Harbor. 


Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections.  bib 

IIG.  Dolomite. 

A  compact  buif  magnesian  limestone,  effervescing  veiy  slowly  with  acid. 
Upper  Silurian.  ?    Kiid-lu-nann. 

117.  Dolomite. 

A  yellowish  white,  very  compact  and  tough  rock,  without  fossils. 
Frobisher  Bay. 

118.  Dolomite. 

A  pale  cream-colored  magnesian  limestone,  compact,  fine-grained,  breaking 
with  very  flat,  broad  .conchoidal  fracture,  extremely  brittle  and  ringing  sharply 
under  the  hammer,  only  slightly  whitened  by  weathering.  Several  large  pieces 
were  present,  all  uniformly  and  abundantly  filled  with  the  minute  tubular  cavities 
mentioned  on  page  579. 

Locality,  "Hall's  Island  of  Frobisher." 

119.  Dolomite. 

Many  fragments  of  gray  and  buff  limestones,  all  probably  magnesian. 
French  Head,  Field  Bay. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  FOSSILS. 

The  fossils  described  below  belong  for  the  most  part  to  two  horizons.    That 
of  the  Utica  slate  in  flinty  bituminous  limestones,  and  that  of  the  Trenton,  rich 
in  entomostraca,  in  gray  argillaceous  limestone. 
BuTHOTREPHis,  conf.  gracilis,  Hall.     Fig.  1.     Natural  size.  -     ^ 

Stem  stout,  subcylindrical  surface  rough,  succulent,  ?    (k>f   z'    \  '        / 
branching.     Branches  alternate  acuminate.  •  ■  '^ 

A  unique  specimen  upon  the  surface  of  a  piece  of  com- 
pact gray  limestone  like  that  containing  entomostraca.    The  -^    ..    „  >^ 
stems  stand  out  from  the  surface  of  the  rock,  and  are  of 

lighter  color  and  rougher  than  the  rest  of  the  surface  of  the  rock.    At  one  place 
alternating  rounded  stems,  having  a  fruit-like  aspect,  are  present,  and  many  short 
separated  branches  are  scattered  over  the  surface. 
Protozoa. 

A  small  fragment  of  weathered  silicious  limestone,  black  at  center,  gray 
externally,  shows  many  curious  forms,  which  seem  to  be  sponge  spicules  and  tests 
of  silicious  protozoa.  What  appears  to  be  a  hexactinellid  spicule  is  repeated 
several  times,  four  hollow  tapering  tubes,  radiating  at  right  angles  from  a  com- 
mon center,  with  which  the  cavities  of  the  tubes  are  continuous,  and  in  which  one 
looks  down  into  the  cavity  of  a  fifth  tube,  the  sixth  having  been  removed  in 
cutting  the  section.     Also  many  fragments,  pierced  with  close-set  hexagonal  open- 


576  Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections. 

ings,  like  many  of  the  fenestrated  polycystiua.  Other  forms  imitate  the  flat  circu- 
lar diatoms,  and  one  cross  section  recalls  a  section  through  a  single  sphere  of 
Pulvinulina.  These  forms  require  to  be  magnified  30  to  50  diameters.  In  small 
pieces  of  gray  argillaceous  limestone  without  special  label  and  not  associated 
with  other  fossils. 
Eeceptaculites  (new  species). 

"  The  receptaculites  is  unlike  the  several  species  of  the  Galena  limestone  of 
the  West  or  the  B.  occidentalis  of  Canada.  Mr.  Salter  speaks  of  one  found  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  American  continent:  This  may  be  that  species  or  it  may 
be  a  new  one;  which  it  was  we  have  no  means  of  determining."  (E.  P.  Stevens, 
Hall's  Xar.  Aj).  10,  p.  594.)  We  have  made  inquiry,  but  can  find  no  trace  of  this 
or  the  other  fossils  reported  upon  in  the  article  quoted. 

DiPLOGRAPTUS  DENTATUS,  Brongn.  Sp. 

1838.  Fucoides  dentatus.     Brongn.  Hist.  Veg.  Fos.  pi.  6,  fig.  9,  12. 
1865.  DipJograptus  pristiniformis.     Hall,  Grap.  Quebec  Gr.  p.  110. 

1875.  D\plograptu8  dentatus.     Hop.  &  Lap.  Grap.  of  St.  Davids,  Q.  J.  G.  S.,  vol.  31,  p.  6.5fi,  pi. 
xxxiv,  fig.  5  a-5  A". 

Occurs  in  pieces  25-35  mm.  in  length,  tapering  slowly  to  a  blunt  point, 
Avidth  2.5  to  3  mm.  Hydrothecse  22-34  to  the  inch,  average  30.  The  many  forms 
which  I  have  referred  with  some  doubt  to  the  JD.  dentatus  in  the  very  wide  signifi- 
cation given  to  the  species  by  Hopkinson  and  Lapworth  in  the  memoir  cited 
above,  occur  i)enetrating  the  black  flinty  limestone  in  various  directions,  or  lying 
upon  the  cleavage  surfaces  of  the  thin -bedded  varieties  of  the  same  black  rock. 
In  the  former  case  they  cannot  be  exposed  for  study;  in  the  latter,  beautiful  casts 
of  the  uncompressed  polypary  are  found.  Other  si^ecimens  are  variously  com- 
pressed, and  the  series  of  figures  given  by  Hoi>kinson  &  Lapworth  would  serve 
perfectly  to  represent  the  various  forms.  In  two  cases  the  proximal  end  is  pre- 
served as  in  5  1c  [loc.  cit.).  Other  forms  have  a  more  scalariform  aspect  than  any 
there  figured.  They  are  all  a  little  more  slender  than  the  normal  1).  dentatus 
from  New  York.  The  species  occurs  in  comi)any  with  Triarthrus  BecMi,  Calymene 
senaria,  Endoceras  proteiforme^  &c. 

L  realities :    In   dark -brown   silicious   limestone  weathering    dove  colored 
from  French  Head,  Field  Bay;  and  in  black  fissile  silicious  limestone  at  the 
ni)pcr  end  of  Frobisher  Bay  and  along  the  north  shore  of  the  same. 
Climacograptus  quadrimucronatus,  Hall. 

l'^(35.   CHmacof/raptu8  qiiadnmncronatm,  Hall.     Grap.  Quebec  Grou^),  p.  144,  pi.  xiii,  iigs.  I-IO. 

Specimens  flattened  in  various  ways  represent  well  many  of  the  drawings 
cited  above,  and  especially  a  cast  in  the  limestone  of  an  uncompressed  specimen  is 
almost  \\  fue-HrmUe  of  the  restoration  of  the  species  there  figured  {Joe.  cit),  excei)t  that 


Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections.  bll 

only  in  a  few  cases  and  then  indistinctly  are  the  characteristic  spines  indicated. 
As  the  measurements  agree  exactly  with  those  of  the  C.  quadrimucronatus,  I  think 
the  specimens  may  without  doubt  be  referred  to  that  species.  Found  associated 
with  other  Ftica  slate  fossils  at  French  Head,  Field  Bay,  and  in  Countess  of 
Warwick's  Sound. 
Climacogeaptits,  sp. 

Many  specimens  of  a  form  belonging  certainly  to  this  genua  occur,  but  none 
are  well  preserved  enough  to  allow  of  a  determination  of  the  species.  Hydrothecae 
30-31  per  inch.  Greatest  width  2.5  mm.,  tapering  slowly  from  greatest  width. 
They  occur  in  the  same  association  as  the  preceding  species,  and  are  closely  allied 
to  C.  hicornis.  Hall,  but  are  much  smaller. 

SiCULA  OF  aEAPTOLITES. 

A  large  piece  of  chocolate-brown  limestone;  contains  in  immense  numbers 
the  embryonic  tubes  of  a  species  of  graptolite,  probably  of  the  D.  dentatus,  above 
described.  These  are  minute  very  elongate  hollow  cones,  often  flattened;  the 
mouth  truncated  obliquely,  and  prolonged  in  a  slender  rigid  thread  about  the 
length  of  the  calicle  itself,  which  latter  is  1.5  to  2  mm.  long. 
Gyathophtllum  ?  PiCKTHORNii,  Salter,  sp. 

Strephodes  Pickthornii,  Salter.     Sutherland's  Journal,  vol.  ii,  Ap.  p.  ccxxx,  plate  vi,  fig.  5. 
1878.  Cyathophylhim?  PicJcthornii,  "Woodward.     Geo.  Mag.  n.  s.  Dec.  II,  vol.  v.  p.  388,  pi.  x,  fig. 
5,6. 

A  single  cup,  of  the  size  and  shape  of  the  smaller  ones  figured  by  Woodward. 
The  lamellae  are  connected  at  the  bottom  by  cross  plates.    In  buff  limestone. 
Halysites  catenulata,  L. 

A  single  specimen  in  buff  limestone  with  Pentamerus. 

From  Eescue  Harbor ;   quoted  also  from  Silliman's  Fossil  Mount  of  Hall, 
lat.  63°  44"  K,  long.  68°  56"  W.,  by  E.  P.  Stevens.— Hall's  Nar.,  p.  594. 
Stictopoea  eamosa.  Hall.  ? 

Many  weathered  specimens  occur  in  the  gray  crinoidal  limestone  along  the 
north  shore  of  Frobisher  Bay.    It  may  be  the  same  as  the  Alveolites  ?  arctica. 
Wood.    Geo.  Mag.  1878,  p.  389. 
Heleolites  (new  species). 
Heliopora  (new  species). 

"The  specimens  of  corals  were  very  perfect  and  beautiful,  and  unlike  any 
figured  by  Professor  Hall  in  the  Palaeontology  of  New  York."  (R.  P.  Stevens, 
Hall's  Nar.,  Appendix  X.) 

Crinoid  stems  and  fragments  are  found  abundantly,  but  in  all  ca«es  round, 
small,  and  not  determinable. 
S.  Ex.  27 37 


578  Professor  E^nerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections. 

LiNGULA  CUUTA,  Con. 

Many  specimens,  retaining  the  black,  shining,  finely- striated  sliell,  and  agree- 
ing exactly  with  Utica  and  Fort  Plain,  N.  Y.,  specimens,  occur  in  the  black  lime- 
stone associated  in  diflerent  pieces  of  the  rock  with  all  the  other  Utica  slate  fossils 
met  with. 
Eynchonella,  sp. 

Several  minute  specimens  occur,  characterized  by  sharp  ribs,  very  high  keel, 
and  deep  sinus ;  in  gray  limestone  with  Entomostraca. 
Chonetes  conf.  steiatella,  Dal. 

A  minute  quite  convex  shell  covered  with  fine  ribs  not  visible  except  with 
the  lens.     The  ribs  anastomose  toward  the  border,  and  are  sei)arated  in  groups 
of  from  8  to  10  by  grooves  twice  the  width  of  those  between  the  separate  striai ; 
height  4-6  nun.    In  gray  limestone  with  Entomostraca. 
Pentamerus  conchidium,  Dal. 

The  large  mass  of  magnesiau  limestone  No.  109,  from  Eescue  Harbor,  con- 
tains a  single  well-i)reserved  specimen  of  this  species  and  many  cross  sections, 
showing  the  characteristic  septum. 

TELLmOMYA  LEVATA,  Hall. 

1847.  Ntimla  levata,  HaU.     Pal.  N.  Y.,  vol.  i,  p.  150,  pi.  34,  fig.  1. 
167.5.   TelUnomya  levata,  Hall.     Pal.  Ohio,  vol.  ii,  p.  82,  pi.  1,  fig.  23. 

This  species  is  represented  by  a  single  sharply  defined  cast  of  the  beak  and 

central  portions  of  the  hinge  plate.     Enough  is  preserved  to  show  that  the  shell 

was  veutricose,  w  ith  large  incurved  beaks  and  posterior  curvature 

of  the  hinge  plate.     It  agrees  in  all  points  with  the  figure  of  the 

interior  of  the  shell  in  Pal.     Ohio  above  cited.     It  occurs  in  a 

Fig.  3  magnified  Small  fragment  of  buff  limestone  from  the  north  side  of  Frobisher 

three  times.      Bay,  associated  in  the  same  piece  with  many  indistinguishable 

fragments  of  bivalves,  crinoid  stems,and  a  minute  Murchisonia  gracilis.  ? 

The  figure  is  drawn  from  a  cast  in  rubber  of  the  impression. 

CONULARIA  TRENTONEjS'SIS,  Hall. 

A  cast  of  one  side  of  the  shell,  retaining  in  part  the  substance  of  the  same 
of  deep  chestnut  brown,  shows  all  the  characteristics  of  this  species.    In  gray 
limestone  with  Entomostraca. 
Gasteropoda. 

Besides  the  Madurea  arctica  quoted  by  Stevens  in  the  Appendix  to  Hall's 
Narrative,  page  594,  the  collection  examined  by  me  contains  single  portions  of 
several  species  too  fragmen  tary  for  determination — a  small  Murchisonia  gracilis, 
Hall ;  a  Madurea^  and  a  small  tinbinoid  .shell  wliich  may  be  Cydoncma  hilix. 


Professor  Emerson  on  JfaWs  Geolorjieal  Collections.  .570 

Endoceras  proteiforme,  Hall. 

1843.  Endoceras proiciformc,  Hall.     Pal.  N.  Y.,  vol.  i,  p.  208,  pi.  xlv-1. 
1843.  ?    p.  311,  pi.  Ixxxv,  fig.  1. 

Ten  or  more  specimens  of  this  form  are  present,  which  are  all  flattened,  and 
resemble  closely  the  flattened  forms  from  Fort  Plain,  X.  Y.,  from  the  IJtica  slate, 
referred  by  Hall  with  doubt  to  this  species.  Five  of  the  specimens  are  flattened, 
showing  neither  septa  nor  distinct  surface  markings,  but  tapering  at  exactly  the 
same  angle  as  the  Fort  Plain  specimens.  Four  retain  very  distinctlj'  the  exterior 
marking,  and  agree  so  exactly  with  the  fig.  3,  pi.  lix,  loc.  cit,  of  the  surface  mark- 
ing of  E.  proteiforme^  var.  lineolatum,  that  it  might  have  been  the  original  from 
which  the  drawing  was  made.  The  surface  is  covered  with  transverse  stria;  3  to 
the  mm.  Two  other  specimens  show  the  points  of  small  shells,  flattened,  sei)ta 
distant  not  quite  ^  of  the  diameter.  The  specimens  were  found  one  in  a  gray 
li?uestone  associated  with  crinoid  stems,  the  others  in  the  black  shaly  limestone 
\vith  Triarthrus  Beckii,  Calymene  senaria,  Lingula  curta,  Diplograptus  dentatus, 
&c. 
Orthoceras  laqueatum.  Hall. "? 

Orthoceras  laqueatum,  Hall.     Pal.  N.  Y.,  i,  p.  206,  pi.  Ivi,  fig.  2  a-c. 
A  single  impression  agrees  in  the  character  of  the  stria tion  with  this 
species.    In  black  shaly  limestone. 

Tentaculites.  ? 

Length  of  largest  piece,  1.1  mm. ;   width,  .1-.2  mm.     Large  masses  of  tUe 

buff  limestone,  No.  112,  are  filled  with   minute  tubular       ^  ^_ 

tapering  cavities,  showing  traces  of  delicate  transverse    #'  ,,, 

striation,  now  covered  with  scattered  elevations,  due  to  ^— .^^v- 

subsequent  crystallization  apparently  of  hematite.    These    ^.  .^  -,  , 

Fig.  4  magiiined  tweiity- 
may  be  cast  of  a  minute  shell  or  of  the  siculae  of  grap-  seven  times. 

tohtes  from  which  the  chitine  has  been  wholly  removed.    They  are  so  numerous, 

however,  and  the  limestone  is  so  compact  and  free  from  carbonaceous  matter,  that 

it  does  not  seem  possible  that  they  can  have  been  chitinous.     Their  organic  origin 

is  not  entirely  certain. 

Leperditia  alta.  Con.  sp. 

1856.  Leperditia  alta,  Jones.  Ann.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.  2cl  ser.  xvii,  p.  89,  pl.  vii,  lig.  6, 7. 
Length,  left  valve,  4  mm. ;  breadth,  2,%  mm.  Carapace  valve  strongly  con- 
vex, minutely  papillose  under  strong  lens,  pale  chestnut  brown,  slightly  oblong. 
Hinge-line  straight,  angles  at  end  of  hinge-line  not  strongly  marked,  anterior 
end  slightly  narrower  than  posterior,  anterior  tubercle  indistinct,  central  tubercle 
not  seen. 


eh 


580  Professor  Emerson  on  HaWs  Geological  Collections. 

A  small  fragment  of  gray  argillaceous  limestone  was  filled  with  specimens 

of  this  species,  mostly  as  single  valves  and  without  admixture  of  other  forms. 

The  cleavage  face  of  the  rock  showed  many  valves  much 

weathered,  the  color  being  lost  and  the  surface  rough.  They 

agree  with  the  L.  alta  of  the  Tentaculite  limestone.    A  few 

5  ^  ^         valves  slightly  larger  occur  in  a  second  fragment  of  a  lime- 

Fig.  5  a,  left  valve  x  4;  ,.,,,»■.,      .i,    r.      -i       /. 

fi"-.5  6  cross-section  from  stone  like  the  first,  Dut  With  fossils  of  many  species,  espe- 

polislied  section.  cially  Entomostraca,  it  having  furnished  all  the  species 

of  that  class  described  below,  besides  three  species  of  Brachiopoda. 
North  shore  Frobisher  Bay. 

Leperditia  canadensis,  Jones. 

1858.  Lejierditia  canadensis,  Jones.     An.  and  Mag.  Nat.  Hist.  3d  ser.  i,  p.  244,  pi.  ix,  f.  11-15. 

Carapace  valve  minute,  mottled  brown,  uniformly  convex,  convexity  greatest 
in  the  anterior  third,  eye  tubercle  well  marked,  nuchal  de- 
pression sloping  equally  to  dorsal  and  ventral  border. 
Dorsal  margin  straight,  shorter  than  gTeatest  length, 
,,.    °"    .  1 ,     ,        ,   ^     ventral  margin  obliquelv  convex,  extremities  unequal, 

Fig.  6 «,  right  valve,  x4;  fig.  o  i       ^  j  17 

6  6,  surface,  X  80.  Length,  anterior  angular,  posterior  broadly  rounded.  Surface  of 
If  mm. ;  breadth,  If  mm.  y^ive  covcred  with  fine  irregularly  placed  pustules  in  the 
specimen  figured,  in  another  coarsely  and  irregularly  pitted.  The  small  size  and 
the  pustulose  surface  do  not  agree  with  the  published  descriptions  of  L.  cana- 
densis, but  the  fine  hair  like  ])ustules,  visible  only  with  high  magnifying  power, 
would  generally  be  wanting,  the  other  valves  in  the  same  piece  of  stone  showing 
no  trace  thereof. 

The  specimen  figured  in  a  small  piece  of  buff  limestone  from  the  north  side 
of  Frobisher  Bay  5  other  valves  in  the  gray  limestone  already  mentioned. 

Peimitia  muta,  Jones. 

1858.  Ct/theropais  concinua,  Jones.  ?    An.  and  Mag.  of  Nat.  Hist.  3d  ser„  vol.  i,  p.  252,  pi.  9,  f.  B. 
1865.  FrimUia  muta,  Jones.     Ibid.  vol.  xvi,  p.  425. 

Carapace- valve  minute,  smooth  and  shining ;  deep  chestnut  brown ;  in  weath- 
ered specimens  dead  white;  ovate  to  oblong-ovate;  generally  leper- 
,  ditia-shaped  in  outline,  hinge-line  straight,  ends  very  unequal,  ven- 

Fig.  7  left  valve  ^^'^^  edge  curved.   Occurs  in  great  abundance  in  company  with  the 
magnified  four  other  entomostraca  described,  and  alone  in  several  small  pieces  of 
buff  limestone.    One  piece  labeled  north  shore  Frobisher  Bay,  the 
others  without  special  labels.    Forms  agreeing  with  the  P.  concinua,  Jones,  from 
the  Canadian  Trenton,  as  also  with  the  elongate  P.  tenera,  Linnarsson  (Vester- 


Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections.  581 

gothlands  Cambriska  ocli  Siluriska  Aliagringar,  p.  85,  fig.  70),  from  the  Triuu- 
clid  Skifier  of  Swetleu  accouipauy  the  typical  forms. 
PrIMITIA  FROBISHEKI,  II.  s. 

Carapace-valve  smooth,  light-brown,  nearly  oval,  sti'ongly  and  regularly 
convex,  sloping  away  from  the  central  portion  to  meet  the 
road  reflected  border  at  right  angles.  This  border  is  broad- 
est on  the  ventral  side ;  is  thin  and  must  have  been  ap- 
j)lied  to  the  corresponding  margin  of  the  left  valve  like 
a  flange.  On  this  margin  are  place<l  9-10  distinct  ex-  Fig.  g  „  c^gt  of  right 
tremely  thin  elevated  ribs,  which  run  up  onto  the  valve     valvp,   x  4 ;   fig.   8   h, 

.,.,-,  .  T  T,       n  .-,       -1  11        T  more  cTilarged  to  show 

towards  a  central  point  ni  the  middle  of  the  dorsal  border;  ^.j^^^  Length  u  mm.- 
of  these  ribs  only  six  are  preserved.  From  the  ventral  breadth,  |  mm. 
furrow  they  may  be  traced  up  the  valve  so  for  as  the  shell  is  present,  retaining 
their  radial  direction,  and  not  anastomosing  as  is  the  case  in  more  recent  genera. 
Just  in  advance  of  the  middle  line  of  the  valve  a  furrow  commences,  shallow  at  the 
dorsal  border,  grows  narrower  and  much  deeper,  and  ends  abruptly  at  the  middle 
of  the  valve,  being  reijresented  in  the  interior  by  a  strong  elevation  which  rises 
nearly  to  the  center  of  the  carapace.  This  furrow  borders  at  its  deepest  portion 
a  proportionally  large  hemispherical  elevated  tubercle,  which  passes  into  the  gen- 
eral convexity  of  the  valve  without  the  intervention  of  any  depression  except  upon 
the  posterior  side  and  for  a  short  distance  round  onto  the  under  side,  where  it  is 
bounded  by  a  shallow  furrow  prolonged  from  the  central  sulcus.  The  description  is 
drawn  up  from  a  cast  of  the  interior  of  a  right  valve  having  the  shell  remaining  upon 
the  border  and  half-way  up  the  side  and  from  the  interiors  of  several  valves  in 
good  ijreservation.  It  is  allied  to  the  Byrichia  strangidata,  Jones,  An.  l^nt.  Hist. 
1855,  2d  series,  xvi,  p.  172,  =  Primitia  nana,  Jones  and  Hall,  loc.  cit,  3d  series, 
xvi,  1865,  p.  420,  from  English  Lower  Silurian ;  also  to  P.  strangulata,  Jones,  in 
Linnarsson  Vestergoth.  Camb.  o.  Sil.  Af.,  p.  85.  Difters  in  the  broad-ribbed  mar- 
gin, large  size,  lower  position  of  tubercle  and  greater  convexity.  A  form  which 
I  have  not  found  described  occurs  in  the  Tentaculite  limestone  of  Schoharie  with 
L.  alta,  which  agrees  closely  with  the  above-described  species.  The  state  of 
preservation  made  it  not  possible  to  determine  if  the  marginal  ribs  were  present. 

Found  in  the  gray  limestone  with  other  Entomostraca. 
Byrichia  symmetrica,  n.  s. 

Carapace- valve  flattened,  elongate.  Dorsal  and  ventral  margins  parallel. 
Extremities  rounded  about  equally,  meeting  the  dorsal  border  with  slight  and 
equal  angles.  Dorsal  marging  straight,  not  quite  equaling  the  longest  diameter 
of  the  valve.     Valve  ornamented  l)y  two  irreguhuly -rounded  tubercles,  the  ante- 


582  Professor  Emerson  on  Hall's  Geological  Collections. 

rior  jirominent,  projecting  slightly  over  the  hinge-line  and  running  downwards  and 
backwards ;  the  posterior  rising  abruptly  from  the  broad  sulcus  and  sloping,  with 
flat  surface  to  the  point  of  junction  of  the  dorsal  and  posterior  border.  The 
broad  sulcus  is  hollowed  between  these  two  tubercules,  j»asses  around  them 
anteriorly  and  posteriorly,  and  is  bounded  on  the  outside  by 
a  ridge  which  starts  at  the  front  side  of  the  anterior  tubercle 
^'^  and  arches  round  till  it  coincides  in  direction  with  the  ventral 

9 1  margin,  which  it  then  follows  to  the  posterior  portion  of  the 

Fig.  9  a,  right  valve,  valve,  where  it  curves  round  sharply  to  meet  the  posterior  side 

cas  o  m  enoi,     ,>,  ^^  ^^^^  posterior  tuborcle.     This  ridge  is  highest  in  the  middle, 

fig.  9   0,   end   view.  ^  &  &  ? 

Length,    2fm    m. ;  and  there  sharply  elevated  and  bent  slightly  toward  the  dorsal 

breadth,  u  mm.       margin,  while  at  both  ends  it  is  flatter  and  less  distinctly 

marked  off  from  the  rest  of  the  valve.    It  is  separated  from  the  ventral  rim  by  a 

deep,  regularly  concave  groove,  which  becomes  broader  and  ill-defined  towards 

the  ends  of  the  valve.    The  whole  valve  remotely  resembles  the  cast  of  a  bivalve 

shell  with  abnormally  deep  and  large  pallial  and  muscular  impressions. 

The  description  is  made  from  two  sharply  marked  casts,  the  shell  being 
present  only  in  the  ventral  furrow,  where  it  is  thick,  smooth,  and  light  brown. 

Found  in  the  gray  limestone  with  other  Entomostraca. 
Triaethrus  Beckii,  Green. 

The  separated  heads  of  this  species  are  very  abundant  in  the  black  lime- 
stones, and  the  separated  cheeks  and  tails  are  also  i^resent  in  great  numbers. 
They  are  all  small,  the  heads  being  4-7  mm.  in  length.  The  occurrence  of  this 
common  Utica  slate  species  so  far  north  is  interesting,  and,  taken  with  its  appear- 
ance in  the  Trinuclid  Skiffer  of  Sweden  (Liunarsson,  loc.  cit.,  p.  70,  fig.  27),  where 
it  is  also  of  the  same  small  size  as  here,  gives  it  a  wide  distribution. 

CALY3IENE   SENARIA,  Courad. 

Several  small,  flattened,  well-preserved  tails,  and  one  cheek,  which  belonged 
to  individuals  not  more  than  12-15  mm.  long,  occur  in  the  black  limestone  with 
the  other  Utica  slate  fossils  enumerated. 
Phacops,  sp. 

The  pustulose  elevated  glabella  of  a  small  individual  has  the  shape  common 
to  species  of  this  genus. 

In  black  limestone. 
ASAPHUS,  sp. 

A  stout  spine,  triangular  in  cross  section,  and  niiukcd  on  tlie  under  side 
exactly  as  in  Asaidms  gigas. 

Ill  ;;iav  liiiit'stoiM'  witli    iMitoinostraca. 


Professor  Emerson  on  HalVs  Geological  Collections.  '  583 

Trilobites  sp. 

I  liiiv(3  figured  a  small  pygidiiun,  Avliicli  is  lnoad  and  flattoned,  apparently 
acutely  terminated  behind,  witli  tliickeued  lim,  and  Itioad,  Aery  slightly  elevated 
ribs. 

In  black  limestone. 


Fio;.  10,  magnified  soveu  times. 

Cyphaspis  %  Frobtsheri,  n.  s. 

The  only  parts  certainly  belonging  to  this  species  are  the  impressions  of 
two  cheeks  upon  different  cleavage  faces  of  a  piece  of  the  black  limestone 
with  Triartlirus  BecJcii,  unless  a  pygidium  upon  the  same  piece, 
which  agrees  well  with  that  of  Cyphaspis  Burmeisteri,  Bar.,  in 
shape,  may  belong  to  the  same  individual.  The  cheek  is  thin, 
flattened,  smooth,  very  remarkable  for  its  angular  outline 
and  the  very  abnormal  curvature  of  the  spine.  The  edge  is  Fig.  ii,  magnified 
separated  from  the  rest  of  the  cheek  by  a  deep  groove,  flat  at  j  frtiiofciieck 
the  bottom,  broad  in  front,  and  narrowing  behind.  The  border  is  13  mm. 
formed  by  the  curving  upward  of  the  crust  and  not  by  its  thickening,  and  the 
spine  is  a  prolongation  of  this  border,  having  for  a  time  the  same  dimensions  and 
ending  abruptly.  The  suture  starts  from  a  point  on  one  side  of  the  central  line 
and  runs  across  the  border,  directed  towards  the  central  point  of  the  glabella, 
then  continues  in  a  sigmoid  curve  to  the  eye,  and  running  around  that  passes  in 
a  curve  outwardly  convex  to  meet  the  posterior  of  the  head  at  a  point  just  inside 
the  base  of  the  spine.  The  eye  shows  mark«s  of  six  facets  placed  in  one  curved 
line. 

In  black  limestone — Utica  slate. 


APPENDIX    IV. 


HALL'S  CONVERSATIONS  WITH  THE  INNUITS  :-1864,  1868,  AND  1869. 

PAPERS  A,  B,  AND  C. 


appendix:  IV. 


HALL'S  CONVERSATIONS  WITH  THE  INN  CITS. 


Prefatory  Note  to  the  Extracts  from  Haxl's  Conversations  with 

THE  INNUITS  IN  THE  YEARS  18G4,  18G8,  AND  18G9— PAPER  A,  CONVER- 
SATIONS HELD  DURING  THE  EARLY  PART  OF  HALL'S  ARCTIC  RESI- 
DENCE,   December,    18G4— Paper  B,  Conversations    held   on    the 

JOURNEY  TO   AND   RETURN  FROM    THE     STRAITS   OF    FURY  AND    HeCLA, 

April,  18G8 — Paper  C,  Conversations  held  with  a  native  of  King 
William's  Land  and  with  others  after  Hall's  visit  to  that  re- 
gion, 18G9. 

The  extracts  which  follow  show  Hall's  carefulness  to  come  at  the  truth  in 
regard  to  what  he  was  seeking  to  learn  from  the  Eskimos.  His  questions  and 
cross-questions  of  individuals — taking  them  separately  and,  at  times,  when  as- 
sembled in  an  igloo — evince  care  and  skill.  He  availed  himself  of  the  watchful- 
ness of  his  faithful  interpreter,  Hannah. 

The  publication  in  the  columns  of  the  New  York  Journal  of  Commerce  of 
part  of  the  extracts  from  his  journals,  to  be  found  in  Paper  A,  created  at  the 
time  some  excitement.  Papers  B  and  C  are  specimens  of  the  talks  which  are 
found  recorded  with  care  in  Books  A  and  B,  which  have  been  returned  to  the 
Observatory  by  the  courtesy  of  Lady  Franklin's  niece.  Miss  Sophia  Cracroft,  of 
London.    These  two  books  bear  the  indorsement  of  Captain  Hall : — 

"  This  tenth  day  of  January,  1871,  sent  by  Express  to  England  to  be  deliv- 
ered to  Lady  Franklin  in  Trust.  Lady  F.,  Miss  Cracroft,  and  Admiral  Sir  Leo- 
pold McClintock  may  read  them ;  no  copv  or  copies  to  be  made." 

r,R7 


588  Conversations  ivith  Innuits.  December,  ise*. 


PAPER   A. 

EXTEACT8  FROM  HALL'S  CONVERSATIONS  HELD  WITH  THE  INNUITS  OF  REPULSE 
BAY  IN  THE  MONTH  OF  DECEMBER,  18C4. 

December  6th,  1864. — This  night  I  have  had  a  deeply  interesting  interview 
with  several  of  the  natives.  On  the  return  of  the  walrus  hunters,  tliey  almost 
uniformly  call  at  our  igloo  during  the  evening  to  see  and  talk  with  me ;  this 
evening  Ar-mou  first  comes  in.  I  asked  him  when  he  was  at  Igioo-lik  a  few 
years  ago  and  what  names  of  Kob-lu-nas  he  heard  of,  that  he  remembered  ? 
The  answer  was  Parry,  Lyon  and  Crozier — the  first  two  were  Esh-e-mut-tas  (chiefs 
or  captains),  but  the  latter  one  was  not. 

Ar-too-a,  the  An-nat-ko,  next  came  in.  He  has  been  to  Pelly  Bay  (Ok-ke- 
be-gu-loo-a,  as  the  Innuits  call  it)  which  is  near  Neitch-il-le  (Boothia  Peninsula). 
While  at  my  igloo  Ar-too-a  once  told  me  that  he  had  heard  of  Orozier  when  at 
Pelly  Bay,  that  he  (C)  was  one  of  the  Koblunas  belonging  to  the  two  ships  that 
were  in  the  ice  near  Neitch-il-le  for  two  years  before  the  white  men  left  them. 

I  proceeded  to  ask  Ar-too-a  the  questions  of  the  names  of  the  white  men 
he  had  heard  of  from  Innuits,  who  had  been  to  Igloo-lik.  He  said.  Parry,  Cro- 
zier and  Lyon  ; — he  had  heard  of  others,  but  could  not  now  remember  them.  I 
asked  him  if  he  had  heard  a  great  deal  about  Crozier,  and  he  replied,  with  great 
warmth,  that  he  had ;  and  then  went  on  talking  with  Ar-mou  and  Ebierbing,  tell- 
ing them  how  much  he  knew. 

Oong-oo-too  next  came  in,  followed  by  Ou-e-la  and  Shoo-she-ark-uuk.  The 
latter  two,  I  knew,  would  be  of  great  service  in  communicating  important  facts, 
if  such  were  in  their  possession.  The  former  is  a  smart,  strong,  muscular  young 
man,  a  great  musk-ox  hunter,  but  a  very  small  talker.  I  can  never  get  much 
out  of  him  in  the  way  of  tongue  work. 

The  parties  now  named  were  all  present.  Ar-too-a  had  become  deeeply  inter- 
ested in  giving  all  the  facts  he  knew  about  Crozier.  He  drew  his  brothers  Oue-la, 
Shoo-she  ark-nuk,  and  my  man  Ebier-bing  into  a  general  conversation  with  him 
oTi  the  subject.  Too-koo-li-too  sat  at  her  usual  place  on  the  took-too  bed  before 
the  fire-lamp,  knitting  a  sack  of  zephyr  worsted  to  keep  my  nasal  organ  from 
freezing  wlien  I  go  out  on  sledge  trips  this  winter.  At  the  same  time  she  was 
attentively  listening  to  all  that  was  said,  that  she  might,  as  interpreter,  commu- 
nicate the  sooner  to  me.  I  was  seated  on  my  stool,  deeply  absorbed  in  all  that  I 
could  understand,  which  I  must  confess  was  very  little. 


December,  1864.]  Conversatiofis  ivitli  Imiuits.  589 

While  the  parties  named  were  engaged  listening  to  what  Shoo-she-ark-nuk 
was  saying,  I  commenced  to  tell  Too-koo-li-too  that  I  wished  her  to  say  that  the 
Crozier  (of  whom  they  knew  something  about  as  having  been  at  Igloo-lik  with 
Parry  twenty -two  years  after  he  was  at  Ig-loo-hk)  left  the  Koblunar  country  as 
an  Esh-e-mut-ta  of  one  of  the  two  ships  that  were  lost  at  Neitch-il-le.  When  I 
had  this  in  mind,  I  had  somehow  out  of  mind  the  fact  that  Ar-too-a  had  iweviousJy 
told  me  that  Crozier,  the  same  one  who  was  at  Igloo  lik,  was  in  one  of  the  lost  ships 
at  Neitchille.  My  usual  precaution  about  keeping  what  I  knew  about  Parry's 
ships  and  Franklin's  to  myself,  without  letting  one  word  out  on  my  part,  was  not 
now  adhered  to. 

1  had  not  got  two  words  out  before  Too-koo-li-too  signaled  to  me  by  a  motion 
of  her  hand  to  keep  silent.  She  then  said,  "  They  are  saying  something  that  I 
will  like  much  to  hear."  Of  course  I  waited  with  great  solicitude.  Too-koo-li-too's 
face  soon  glowed  with  delight  as  she  said ;  "  That  same  man,  Crozier,  who  was 
at  Igloo-lik  when  Parry  and  Lyon  were  there,  was  Esh-e-mut-ta  (meaning  captain 
in  this  case,  the  literal  chief)  uf  the  two  ships  lost  in  the  ice  at  Neitchille. 
Crozier  was  the  only  man  that  would  not  eat  any  of  the  meat  of  the  Koblunas 
as  the  others  all  did.  Crozier  and  the  three  men  with  him  were  very  hungry,  but 
Crozier,  though  nearly  starved  and  very  thin,  would  not  eat  a  bit  of  the  Koblu- 
nas,— he  waited  tiU  an  Innuit  who  was  with  him  and  the  three  men  caught  a  seal, 
and  then  Crozier  only  ate  one  mouthful, — one  little  bit  first  time.  Next  time, 
Crozier  ate  of  the  seal  he  took  a  little  Larger  piece,  though  that  was  a  little  bit 
too.  One  man  of  the  whole  number  four  died  because  he  was  sick.  The  others 
all  lived  and  grew  fat,  and  finally  Crozier  got  one  Innuit  with  his  kiak  to  accom- 
pany him  and  the  two  men  in  trying  to  get  to  the  Koblunar  country  by  traveling 
to  the  southward.  The  Innuits  here  think  these  two  men  and  Crozier  are  alive 
yet;  think  they  may  have  returned  to  Neitchille,  if  they  found  they  could  not  get 
home  to  the  Koblunar  country,  and  lived  again  with  the  Innuits. 

The  two  winters  the  two  ships  were  at  Keitch-ille  were  very  cold.  The 
Innuits  never  knew  such  very  cold  weather — there  was  no  summer  between  the 
two  winters — could  catch  no  seals  or  kill  any  rein-deer  at  most  of  the  usual  places 
where  they  were  most  accustomed  to  find  them. 

Eelative  to  the  interview  described,  I  was  thankful — delighted,  indeed,  that 
Too-koo-li-too  had  checked  me  when  I  was  about  to  request  her  to  tell  the  Innuits 
present  what  I  had  in  mind.  A  most  important  fact  came  out  in  consequence, 
showing  that  the  Innuits  far  and  near  are  conversant  with  all  events  of  this 
nature  that  take  place  in  their  country.    The  Pelly  Bay  Innuits,  from  what  had 


590  Conversations  with  Innuits.  [December,  isg4. 

been  told  them  by  Inmiits  who  had  seeu  Crozier,  knew  that  he  (C.)  was  not  an 
Esh-c  luut  ta  (eai)tai]i)  when  with  the  two  ships  that  visited  Ig-loo-lik  and  the  other 
phices.  But  they  knew  that  he  (C  )  was  Esh-e  inut-ta  when  at  Neitch-ille.  The 
fact  that  Crozier  was  not  an  Esh-e-mut-ta  when  at  Ig-loo-lik  was  well  known  to 
Ou-e-la,  Shoo-she-ark-nuk,  and  Ar-too-a  when  they  were  boys.  Erk-tu-a  knows  this 
well,  and  so  it  is  known  all  the  way  from  here  to  Ig-loo-lik  and  even  Pond's 
Baj" — I  doubt  not.  How  remarkable  it  is  that  such  matters  are  perpetuated  by  a 
people  that  have  no  knowledge  of  books  and  writings !  But  these  facts  which 
I  now  give  record  to  cannot  be  learned  in  a  moment.  Friendship  and  confidence 
nuist  be  established  first,  and  even  then  there  are  obstacles  ever  in  the  way, 
whicli  prevent  rapid  acquisition  of  knowledge  among  this  people.  I  am  blessed 
with  having  Ebierbing  and  Too-koo-li-too  for  my  company  and  interpreters. 

Deceimber  7th,  1864. — This  morning  Erk-tu-a,  the  relict  of  E-we-rat,  and 
old  mother  Ook-bar-loo,  called  on  me. 

I  began  my  inquiries  by  asking  Erk-tu-a  to  report  to  me  all  the  names  she 
could  recollect  of  the  Kob-lu-nas  she  saw  when  at  Ig-loo-lik.  She  began  and  con- 
tinued thus — Paree,  he  Esh-e-mut-ta  (captain) ;  Lyon,  he  Esh-e-mut-ta  (captain) ; 
Par  mee,  he  Esh-e-mut-ta-nar  (mate  on  Lyon's  ship) ;  Oo-liz-e  (on  Parry's  shii^) 
Cro-zhar,  Esh  e-mut-ta-nar  (mate  or  some  ofQcer  not  so  great  as  captain  on  Parry's 
ship)  5  *  *  *  Erk-tu-a  says  that  Crozier  was  called  Ag-loo-ka  by  the  Innuits.  Cro- 
zier's  name  was  given  to  old  Ook -bar-loo's  sister's  son,  whose  name  was  Ag-loo-ka, 
and  Ag-loo-ka's  name  was  given  to  Crozier.  The  Innuit  Aglooka  is  still  living, 
but  called  Oo-li-zhum. 

After  Erk-tu-a  said  this  much  I  oijened  Parry's  work,  "  Narrative  of  2ud 
voyage  for  the  discovery  of  a  North  West  Passage,"  and  turned  to  the  list  of 
ofiicers  &c,  in  the  introduction  to  said  work.  I  readily  made  out  to  whom  "  Par-me  " 
(as  Erk-tu-a  spoke  the  name)  referred.  Chas.  Palmer  was  one  of  the  lieutenants 
on  board  of  Lyon's  ship,  "Oo-liz-e"  I  could  not  make  out.       ***** 

Erk-tu-a  said  there  were  dogs  at  Igloo  lili  named  after  Crozier,  and  also  after 
Parry  and  Lyon,  and  so  the  Innuits  would  name  dogs  after  me  in  way  of  respect 
to  nje,  and  in  commemoration  of  one  who  had  treated  their  people  kindly. 
This  cojnpliment,  though  to  many  it  might  seem  funny,  is  one  that  touched  my 
heart.        *        ♦        # 

Relative  to  Sir  John  Franklin's  Expedition,  mother  Ook-barloo  says  (very 
reservedly — in  a  way  of  letting  me  know  of  a  matter  that  is  a  great  secret  among 
the  Innuits)  "that  two  annatkos  (conjurors)  of  Neitchille  ankooted  so  nuich,  that 
in)  animal,  no  game  whatsoever  would  go  near  the  locality  of  the  two  ships,  which 


December,  1864.J  Convcrsations  with  Innuits.  591 

were  in  the  ice  near  Neitcbillo  many  years  ago.  The  Innnits  wislied  to  live  near 
that  place  (where  the  ships  were)  but  conld  not  kill  anything  for  their  food. 
They  (the  Innuits)  really  believed  that  the  presence  of  the  Koblunas  (whites)  in 
that  part  of  the  country  was  the  cause  of  all  their  (the  Innuits')  trouble." 

Mother  Ook-bar-loo  continued — "  One  man  would  not  eat  the  flesh  of  his 
frozen  and  starved  companions,  and  therefore  wheu  her  nephew,  Too-shoo-ar- 
thar-i-u,  found  Aglooka  (Crozier)  and  three  other  Koblunas  with  him,  Aglooka, 
who  was  the  one  that  would  not  eat  human  flesh,  was  very  thin  and  almost 
starved.  One  of  the  three  men  with  Aglooka  died,  for  he  was  very  sick.  He  did 
not  die  from  hunger,  but  because  he  was  very  sick.        *        *        * 

The  two  an-nat-kos  at  Neitch-ille  were  very  bad,  for  they  ankooted  on  pur- 
pose to  have  the  Kob-lu-nas  that  were  in  the  two  ships  two  years  in  the  ice  all 
starved  to  death.     Sometimes  Neitchille  an-nat-kos  act  very  badly. 

December  Sth,  1864. — This  evening  I  have  had  another  talk  with  Ou-e-la, 
Shoo-she-ark-nuk  and  Ar-too-a  about  some  of  the  men  of  Franklin's  Expedition. 
The  man  who  caught  seals  for  Ag-loo-ka  (Crozier)  and  some  of  his  men — the  three 
with  him — is  their  cousin.  His  name  is  Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u.  When  he  first 
found  Crozier  and  the  three  men  with  them,  Crozier's  face  looked  bad — his  eyes  all 
sunk  in — looked  so  bad  that  their  cousin  could  not  bear  to  look  at  his  face.  Their 
cousin  gave  Crozier  a  bit  of  raw  seal  as  quick  as  he  could  when  he  first  saw  him. 
Did  not  give  any  to  the  other  three,  for  they  were  fat  and  had  been  eating  the 
flesh  of  their  companions.  It  was  near  Neitch-il-le  that  this  occurred  on  the  ice. 
This  cousin  is  now  living  at  Neitch-il-le.  When  Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u  first  saw 
Crozier  and  the  men  with  him,  he  was  moving,  having  a  loaded  sledge  drawn  by 
dogs  5  he  was  going  from  place  to  place,  making  Igloos  on  the  ice — sealing — he 
had  with  him  his  wife,  whose  name  is  E-laing-nur,  and  children.  Crozier  and  his 
men  had  guns  and  plenty  of  powder,  shot  and  ball.  The  cousin  took  Crozier  and 
his  men  along  with  him,  and  fed  them  and  took  good  care  of  them  all  winter.  Be- 
side a  high  cliff  Innuits  saw  something  like  Now-yers  (gulls)  fall  down  to  the 
ground,  dead,  and  would  not  touch  them,  for  Crozier  had  done  something  to 
them — they  (the  Innuits)  knew  not  what.  In  the  summer  Crozier  and  his  men 
killed  with  their  guns  a  great  many  birds,  ducks,  geese  and  rein-deer.  Crozier 
killed  many — very  many  of  the  latter.  The  Innuits  saw  him  do  it.  A  Neitchille 
Innuit  went  with  Crozier  and  his  remaining  two  men  when  they  started  to  go  to 
their  country.  They  had  a  kiak  with  which  to  cross  rivers  and  lakes.  They 
went  down  toward  Ook-koo-seek-ka-lik  (the  estuary  of  Great  Fish  or  Back's  Eiver). 
Then-  cousin  liked  Croiner  very  much.     Crozier  wanted  to  give  their  cousin  his 


592  Conversations  with  Innuits.  [December,  i864. 

gun,  but  he  would  not  accept  it,  for  he  was  afraid  of  it,  he  did  uot  know  any- 
thing about  how  to  use  it.  Crozier  gave  him  his  long  knife  (sword,  as  Too-koo-li-too 
and  Ebierbing  interpret  it)  and  nearly  everything  he  had.  He  (C.)  had  many 
pretty  things.  Crozier  told  Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u  all  about  what  had  happened,  but 
he  could  not  understand  all.  This  cousin  is  now  alive,  and  knows  all  what  he 
saw  and  what  Crozier  told  him. 

The  story  now  is,  that  Crozier  with  his  two  men  and  a  Neitch-il-le  Innuit 
started  from  Keiteh-il  le — started  in  the  summer  or  fall — for  the  Kob-lu-nas' coun- 
try, traveling  to  the  southward  on  the  land.  They  had  a  small  boat  that  had 
places  on  the  sides  that  would  hold  wind  (air)  (Ebierbing  said  to  me.)  From  their 
(our  informers')  description,  the  boat  must  have  been  an  India  rubber  one,  or 
something  like  it,  with  hollow  places  in  the  sides  for  wind  (air)  to  hold  it  up 
when  in  the  water.  (By  this  it  would  seem  that  Franklin  must  have  had  in  his 
vessels  a  boat  or  boats  called  Halkett's  air-boats,  or  its  equivalent.  But  I  do  not 
recollect  of  ever  reading  or  hearing  about  this  particular;  however,  I  believe 
that  he  (Franklin)  must  have  had  something  of  this  kind  aboard  his  ship.) 
There  were  sticks  or  holes  for  this  boat,  to  keep  it  open  (spread)  when  needed. 

This  small  boat  was  wrapped  or  rolled  up  in  a  bundle  or  pack,  and  carried 
on  the  shoulder  of  one  of  his  men.  The  sides  of  this  boat,  something  like  Innuits' 
"  drugs  "  that  could  be  filled  with  air.        #        *        * 

"  In-nook-poosh-ee-jook  is  the  name  of  an  Innuit  who  went  with  others  of  his 
people  aboard  of  Ag-loo-ka's  ship  after  the  Neitchille  Innuits  heard  that  the  Kob- 
lu-nas  had  all  left  it.  This  was  while  Ag-loo-ka  and  his  three  men  were  living  on 
the  ice  in  an  igloo  with  her  nephew.  In-nook-poosh-ee-jook  and  his  companions  got 
at  that  time  a  great  many  things,  out  of  the  ship.  This  Innuit  often  visited  I-wil- 
lik  (Eepulse  Bay). 

At  11  a.  m.  Old  mother  Ouk-bar-loo  came  in,  bringing  a  long,  thick  slab  of 
powdered  walrus  ook-sook  (blubber)  for  our  fire-lamp.  I  proceeded  to  ask  her 
about  the  interview  she  had  with  In-nook-poosh-ee-jook.  Ook-bar-loo  said  :  He 
told  her  how  he,  his  father,  wife,  and  children,  and  other  Innuits,  went  to  a  big  tent, 
and  there  saw  starved  and  frozen  Kob-lu-nas  all  dead,  many  with  the  flesh  all  cut 
oft'  from  the  bones— the  head  and  necks  all  whole.  Around  the  necks  of  several 
were  strings  of  beads.  These  the  Innuits  took,  besides  many  tin  canisters,  cups, 
knives,  and  other  things.  After  this,  these  same  parties  with  others,  visited  the 
ship  or  ships  (the  old  lady  could  not  recollect  whether  there  was  one  or  two),  and 
got  a  great  many  things  and  carried  them  ashore.  No  one  was  on  board  the  ship 
when  these  Innuits  went  to  it.    No  Kob-lu-na's  dead  body  was  about  the  ship. 


December,  1864. i  Conversations  with  Innuits.  593 

The  Kob-lu-nas,  or  the  luniiits,  made  a  big  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  ship, 
as  if  they  had  wanted  to  sink  it.  The  Innuits  got  two  big  long  saws  from  the 
ship  that  the  Kob-lu-nas  had  used  to  saw  ice  with  and  took  them  to  the  land. 
The  Innuits  saw  that  nearlj'  the  whole  of  one  side  of  the  vessel  had  been  crushed 
in  by  the  heavy  ice  that  was  about  it,  and  thought  that  was  why  the  Kob-lu-nas 
had  left  it  and  gone  to  the  land  and  lived  in  the  tents.  By  and  by  the  Kob-lu-nas 
froze  and  starved.  Among  the  things  the  Innuits  got  from  the  ship  were  a  great 
manyood-loos  (Innuit  women's  knives,  like  our  domestic  mincing  or  chopping 
knives  in  the  States).  These  were  all  good,  just  what  all  the  women  wanted. 
Every  woman  had  one,  and  there  were  more  than  enough  for  each  woman  and 
girl.  Besides  these,  they  got  a  great  many  knives  for  the  men,  such  as  pe-louds 
and  pan-nas  (small  or  short  bladed,  and  long-bladed  knives),  a  great  many  spoons 
and  forks,  a  good  many  bright  rings  for  the  fingers,  a  great  many  round  thin 
pieces  of  metal  (medals  and  pieces  of  money,  Too-koo-li-too  says  these  must  have 
been,  from  old  Ook-bar-loo's  description).  Some  were  red,  some  white,  and  some 
looked  like  the  metal  ka-roons  (a  brass  ornament  worn  on  the  foreheads  of  the 
Innuits  here  and  at  Neitch-il-le)  are  made  of.  (Too-koo-li-too  thinks  some  of  these 
money  and  medal  i)ieces  were  bright  gold  and  others  brass). 

Thursday,  Bec^r  15th,  1864. — 1.30  P.  M — The  astounding  news  that  Ag-loo-ka 
(Crozier)  arrived,  with  one  man,  among  the  Kin-na-pa-toos,  his  powder  and  shot 
nearly  all  gone !  I  must  give  the  particulars  of  the  above  startling  news,  as  given 
me  a  few  moments  ago.  At  the  time  I  got  the  above  information  there  were,  as 
usual  through  the  day  and  evening,  several  Innuits  in  our  igloo.    The  An-nat-koo's 

(Ar-too-a's)  wife,  and  the  wife  of ,  and  the  old  man.  See-gar,  were  aU  seated  on 

the  dais  or  bed-platform,  while  Too-koo-li-too  was  at  her  place  by  her  fire-lamp,  en 
gaged  telling  these  visitors  about  Ag-loo-ka  (Crozier).  Too-koo-li-too  had  just 
made  the  sympathetic  remark — "  What  a  pity  it  is  that  Ag-loo-ka  and  the  two 
men  who  started  together  from  Neitchille  for  the  purpose  of  getting  to  the  Kob-lu- 
nas  country  had  never  arrived."  Old  See-gar  listened,  as  did  the  other  Innuits 
present,  to  all  that  Too-koo-li-too  said,  and  when  she  made  the  last  remark.  See- 
gar  sprang  from  his  seat,  quick  as  a  flash,  and  looking  staringly  at  Too-koo-li-too, 
exclaimed  with  great  force  and  sui-prise,  "  What !  Ag-loo-ka  not  got  back !  Why," 
continued  See-gar,  "the  Kin-na-pa-toos  (Innuits  who  belong  to  Chesterfield  Inlet) 
told  me  several  years  ago  that  Ag-loo-ka  and  one  man  with  him  arrived  among 
their  (the  Kin-na-pa-toos)  people,  and  that  they  (Ag-loo-ka  and  his  men)  had  gone 
to  where  the  Kob-lu-nas  live  further  down  the  Big  Bay"  (to  Churchill  or  York 
Factory,  as  Too-koo-li-too  thinks  See-gar  tried  to  explain  it).  I  was  greatly  in- 
S.  Ex.  27 38 


594  Conversations  ivith  Innuits.  [December,  i864. 

terested  as  well  as  surprised,  in  what  See-gar  said,  as  now  recorded.  I  at  once 
had  Too-koo-li-too  ask  old  See-gar  several  questions,  which  he  answered  by  com- 
municating as  follows : 

Ag-loo-ka,  of  whom  he  (See-gar)  had  heard  Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u  tell  all  about 
at  the  same  time  that  Ou-e-la  and  his  brother  saw  him,  arrived  among  the  Kin- 
na-pa-toos,  having  one  man  with  him,  and  his  powder  and  shot  were  nearly  all 
gone.  The  Kin-na-pa-toos  told  him  (See-gar)  about  this  before,  See-pee-lar  (Cap- 
tain E.  A.  Chapel)  and  his  brother  came  the  first  time  into  this  bay  (which  was  in 
1860).  The  Kin-na-pa-too  Innuits  said  that  Ag-loo-ka  and  his  man  had  gone  on  and 
had  arrived  at  the  nearest  place  where  Kob-lu-nas  live,  which  must  mean  Fort 
Churchill.  Too-shoo-ar-thar-i-u  told  him  (See-gar)  (this  was  in  the  winter  of  1853-4 
at  Pelly  Bay)  that  Ag-loo-ka  would  probably  get  home  to  where  the  Kob-lu-nas  live, 
unless  somebody  killed  him,  for  he  (Ag-loo-ka)  knew  all  about  how  to  hunt  and  kill 
took-too  (rein  deer)  and  nearly  everything  else  that  the  Innuits  could  kiU ;  knew 
how  to  keep  himself  warm,  how  to  live,  just  as  the  Innuits  do  ;  as  he  (E.)  had  lived 
and  hunted  with  him  (Too-shoo  ar-thar-i-u)  and  with  many  others  of  the  Neitchille 
Innuits.  Ag-loo-ka  knew  all  about  everything  that  the  Innuits  knew.  The  Kin- 
na-pa-too  Innuits  told  him  (See-gar)  about  Ag-loo-ka  and  his  men ;  did  not  see 
them ;  but  said  that  they  had  their  information  from  others  of  their  people, 
who  did. 

December  22nd. — Old  mother  Ook-bar-loo  gives  me  a  call  every  morning, 
oftentimes  before  I  am  up ;  but,  nevertheless,  she  is  always  welcomed,  as  I  am 
really  glad  to  see  her,  and  have  "  talks  "  with  one  so  filled  with  the  traditions  of 
her  peoi)le.  Not  only  does  she  call  every  morning,  but  usually  repeats  her  visits 
two  or  three  times  during  the  day  and  evening.  Her  second  call  to-day  was  at 
11  a.  ra.  I  was  engaged  writing  at  the  moment  of  her  coming  in,  and,  after  my 
usual  greeting,  continued  on  with  it.  Old  mother  Ook-bar-loo  took  her  seat  on 
the  snow  platform  directly  before  me,  and  she  and  Too-koo-li-too  did  as  all  women 
will  do — went  to  talking. 

A  few  minutes  before  meridian  Too-koo-li-too  said  to  me:  "Ook-bar-loo 
has  been  telling  me  about  a  icitch^^ — as  I  understood  Too-koo-li-too  to  say.  I 
dropped  ray  jjen  and  looked  Too-koo-li-too  directly  in  the  face,  supi^osing  that  I ' 
might  catch  the  peculiar  smile  indicative  that  she  had  a  joke  on  hand  for  me ;  but 
I  saw  she  was  in  earnest,  and  that  something  of  unusual  interest  must  be  in  store 
forme.  I  therefore  earnestly  asked,  "AVhatdid  you  say,  Too-koo-li-too  F  She 
rei>lied,  "The  old  lady  has  just  been  telling  me  of  a  watch  just  like  yours  (mine) 
only  not  so  large,  that  she  saw  when  at  Pelly  Bay,  which  was  all  in  complete  order, 


December.  1S64.1  Cofiversations  with  Innuits.  595 

and  bad  a  long  cliain  to  go  around  tlie  neck  and  a  key ;  and  tlie  old  lady,  wlio  had 
it,  told  her  (Ook-bar-loo)  that  it  once  belonged  to  one  of  the  many  Kob-lu-nas 
that  had  died  near  Neitchille."  I  need  not  say  that  I  was  an  attentive  listener  to 
this.  At  once  I  left  my  "  tripod  "  (seat  of  three  legs),  and  set  myself  flat  down  on 
the  far-bed  deer-skins  beside  both  Too-koo-li-too  and  Ook-bar-loo,  and  requested 
the  old  lady  to  tell  me  all  about  this  watch. 

Through  Too-koo-li-too  she  said :  "  When  she  was  at  Ok-kee-bee-jee  (Pelly 
Bay),  which  was  in  the  winter  of  1853-4),  she  saw  a  woman  who  had  a  watch,  with 
chain  and  key,  which  she  always  kept  very  carefully  by  her.  This  mother  was 
mother-in-law  of  In-nook-poosh-ee-jook,  the  man  who  told  her  (Ook-bar-loo)  what 
she  related  to  me  the  other  day.  This  mother  of  In-nook-poosh-ee-jook  told  her  all 
about  where  and  how  she  got  the  watch.  She  and  her  husband  went  to  a  big  tent 
not  very  far  from  N^eitchille,  and  among  the  frozen  mass  of  human  bones  and 
bodies  that  were  lying  around  in  it  she  saw  one  Kob-lu-na  body  that  had  a 
bright  white  (jirobably  silver)  chain  around  the  neck.  She  knew  at  once  what 
the  chain  was  for,  as  some  of  the  other  Neitchille  Innuits  had  just  come  into  pos- 
session of  several  watches  and  chains,  which  she  saw." 

''  The  body  of  this  man  was  lying  on  one  side,  and  was  half  imbedded  in  solid 
ice  from  head  to  feet.  The  way  the  chain  was  about  the  neck  and  running  down 
one  side  of  the  body  indicated  that  the  watch  was  beneath  it;  and  therefore,  to 
get  at  the  watch,  she  found  a  difficult  and  disagreeable  task  before  her.  Neither 
she  nor  her  husband  had  any  instrument  with  them  that  they  would  use  for  any 
such  purpose  as  was  desired ;  therefore,  while  the  husband  was  seeking  around, 
in  and  about  the  tent,  collecting  such  things  as  he  fancied  would  best  suit  him, 
she  procured  a  heavy  sharp  stone,  and  with  this  chipped  away  the  ice  from  all 
round  the  body  till  it  was  released.  Continued  old  mother  Oohhar-loo,  in  a  truly 
sorrowful  tone  of  voice :  This  woman  told  her  that  she  could  never  forget  the 
dreadful,  fearful  feelings  she  had  all  the  time  while  engaged  doing  this;  for, 
besides  the  tent  being  filled  with  frozen  corpses — some  entire  and  others  muti- 
lated by  some  of  the  starving  companions,  who  had  cut  off  much  of  the  flesh 
with  their  knives  and  hatchets  and  eaten  it — this  man  who  had  the  watch  she  sought 
•  seemed  to  her  to  have  been  the  last  that  died,  and  his  face  was  just  as  though 
he  was  only  asleep.  All  the  while  she  was  at  work  breaking  the  ice  near  the  head, 
especially  the  ice  about  the  face,  she  felt  very,  very  bad,  and  for  this  reason  had 
to  stop  several  times.  She  was  very  careful  not  to  touch  any  part  of  the  body 
while  pounding  with  the  sharp  stone.  At  last,  after  having  pounded  away  the 
ice  from  around  and  under  the  body,  her  husband  helped  her  to  lift  it  out  of  its 


596  Conversations  with  Innuits.  [April,  isos. 

icy  bed.  Still  she  was  troubled  to  get  the  watch  from  the  frozen  garments  with 
which  the  body  was  completely  dressed.  Finally,  the  watch  and  key  and  chain 
were  obtained  entire;  and  the  woman  now  keeps  them  very  choice,  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  terrible  feelings  she  had  when  getting  them  from  the  dead  Kob-lu-na, 
whom  she  dug  out  of  the  ice  with  nothing  but  a  heavy,  sharp  stone.  I  asked  the 
old  lady  if  this  watch  was  like  the  one  I  carried  on  my  person,  at  the  same  time 
showing  her  Eggert  &  Son's  pocket-chronometer  (loaned  to  me  by  those  parties,  of 
New  York),  which  is  an  old-fashioned  one,  of  large  size,  in  a  heavy  double  silver  case. 
She  had  told  Too-koo-H-too  that  it  was  not  so  large  as  this,  and  she  said  the  same 
to  me.  I  then  drew  out  from  under  the  took -too  furs,  where  I  keep  it,  a  small 
pocket-chronometer  in  silver  cases  (which  I  have  in  my  i)ossession  by  the  kind- 
ness of  Augustus  H.  Ward,  of  New  York).  Old  Ook-bar-loo  said  it  was  like 
this,  of  the  same  size  and  kind ;  that  is,  it  was  of  white  (silver)  metal.  It  was 
not  of  such  metal  as  my  gold  pen,  though  she  (Ook-bar-loo)  had  seen  many  parts 
of  watches — watches  that  had  been  taken  to  pieces — that  were  of  the  same  color 
with  my  gold  pen." 


PAPEE    B. 

SOME  TALKS  WITH  INNUITS :  NORTH  OOGLIT  ISLANDS,  APRIL,  1868. 

"After  the  death  of  Kia,  Koo-loo-a  thought  he  would  go  deer-hunting  in  that 
part  of  the  country  where  Kia  had  seen  the  strange  person,  as  he  believed  he 
might  find  something  that  would  be  useful  to  him  thereabouts,  and  as  he  wanted 
some  wood  with  which  he  might  make  arrows  and  spear-handles  between  Ar-lang- 
ung-ii  and  the  N.  W.  cape  of  Melville  Peninsula.  He  hunted,  but  found  nothing 
he  sought  for.  Here  I  asked  if  he,  Koo-loo-a,  during  his  search,  found  any  piles 
of  stone,  called  In-nook-shoo  by  the  natives.  He  replied  that  he  did.  I  then  got 
Eae's  chart  and  placed  it  before  us.  Koo-loo-a  soon  comprehended  its  nature,  and 
then  said  that  the  extreme  N.  W.  part  of  Melville  Peninsula,  and  the  sea  by  it  of 
the  chart  was  not  as  the  land  and  water  really  arc.  He  said  that  quite  a  large 
river  runs  from  the  eastward  nearly  parallel  with  Adge-go  (Fury  and  Hecla  Strait), 
and  empties  its  waters  into  a  bay  very  near  to  Cape  Ellice  of  Eae's  discovery  in 
1847.  Near  the  river,  south  side  of  it,  Koo-loo-a  found  a  Monument  of  stone  on  a 
crest  of  rising  ground,  and  a  little  to  one  side,  west  of  the  Monument,  where  a 
curious  kind  of  cache  had  been  made  of  stones.  The  cache  had  been  opened  and 
the  stones  all  thrown  one  side.  The  Monument  and  the  cache  stones  all  showed 
a  great  degree  of  freshness.    He  did  not  think  they  were  the  work  of  any  luniiit. 


April,  1S6S.]  Conversations  with  Innuits.  597 

He  looked  carefully  about  where  the  cache  had  been  made  for  the  object  to  learn 
what  had  been  deposited  there.  No  signs  that  any  meat  had ,  ever  been  put 
there.  He  does  not  think  that  any  Innuit  had  ever  before  been  so  high  up 
from  Ar-lang-na-zhu  (Garry  Bay  of  Eae's  chart).  Koo-loo-a  was  with  Kia  on 
the  deer-hunt  when  the  latter  saw  the  strange  man,  though  not  present  at  the 
time  when  Kia  sighted  and  followed  the  strange  man.  A  short  time  before 
Kia  saw  the  stranger  in  black  clothes  Koo-loo-a  felt  thirsty  and  came  to  a 
lake.  He  had  laid  himself  down  to  take  a  draught  of  water,  and  at  the  very 
instant  he  was  placing  his  face  down  to  it,  he  heard  a  loud  crack,  which  he 
thought  must  be  of  a  gun,  for  when  small  and  living  at  Too-noo-nee  (Pond's  Bay) 
he  had  become  familiar  with  the  reports  of  the  guns  of  white  men  that  came 
there  to  kill  whales.  He  was  at  the  time  so  far  from  the  sea  that  it  could  not 
have  been  the  noise  of  ice  cracking.  Kia  was  very  particular  in  telling  him  all 
about  the  strange  man  he  had  seen  on  Koo-loo-a  and  Kia  meeting  each  other. 
The  strange  man  was  tall  and  carried  some  long  thing  on  his  shoulder  and  walked 
very  fast.  He  had  a  cap  on  his  head  that  was  independent  of  his  coat,  but  there 
was  a  hood  to  the  long  dark  coat  he  had  on.  Kia  kept  himself  hid  behind  the 
rocks  and  followed  the  strange  man — for  some  time.  Not  long  after  Kia  saw  the 
strange  man,  that  he  (K.)  thought  must  be  an  Indian;  Kia  heard  a  loud  crack, 
which  made  him  think  of  ice  cracking,  but  the  sea  was  too  far  off  to  hear  so  plain. 

Friday  April  10th,  1868, — This  another  gloriously  fine  day — succeeding  days 
of  cloudless  ones.  VHP  SO""  A.  M.  With  Ar-tung-un  I  am  now  to  have  a  talk. 
I  may  here  say  that  Too-loo-ar-chu  and  Ar-tung-un  are  both  old  men  who  remem- 
ber well  Parry  &  Lyon's  visit  to  Ig-loo-lik.  Parry  was  the  attata  (or  father,  so 
called  of  Too-loo-ar-chu,  &  as  he  (T.)  says),  Parry  wanted  much  to  have  his  parents 
consent  that  he  should  go  home  with  him  to  England.  Too-loo-ar-chu  first  saw 
Parry  &  Lyon  at  Nu-ee-u-new-gu-a  (Winter  island)  Too-koo-li-too  my  Interpreter. 

I  now  ask  Ar-tung-un  if  he  ever  heard  of  Et  ker  lin  (Indians)  being  in  this 
country.  Ar-tung-un  says  many  years  ago  a  little  while  before  Koo-pa  and  his 
companions  got  so  frightened  by  Et-ker-lin,  many  natives  were  there  stopping  at  a 
place  called  Ing-near-ing  up  a  large  Bay  to  the  IsT.  E.  of  Igloolik  where  one  night 
in  the  fall  of  the  year  just  before  the  time  for  snow  the  dogs  commenced  barking 
furiously  when  many  Innuits  sprang  out  of  their  beds  and  went  out  of  their  tents 
to  see  what  was  the  cause.  Some  four  or  five  Et-ker  lin  (Indians)  were  seen  pass- 
ing along  each  conveying  in  his  hand  something  like  a  stick.  It  was  not  so  dark 
but  that  their  figures  were  distinctly  seen  cutting  sharj^ly  the  back  ground,  which 
was  the  sky.     Ar-tung-un  was  not  one  of  the  natives  that  saw  those  Indians  for 


598  Conversations  with  Innuits.  [Aprii,  ises. 

he  was  too  late  getting  out  of  bed,  but  not  thinking  it  possible  there  could  be 
any  Kob-lu-uas  about  he  thought  the  strangers  must  be  Indians.  The  Innuits 
were  all  so  frightened  that  the  next  day  they  removed  from  Ing-near-ing  to  an 
island  Ki-ki-tuk-che-uk.  Following  the  removal  many  Innuits  together  went 
deer  hunting  when  two  of  their  number  Ar-tung-un  one  of  the  two  stopped  while 
the  others  went  on — stopped  to  hunt  deer  together.  The  two  men  or  natives 
Ar-tung-un  &  an  Innuit  now  dead,  Al-er-gaite,  were  walking  when  all  at  once  they 
heard  the  bang  of  a  gun  as  Ar  tung  un  thought,  for  he  had  heard  guns  fired  many 
times  when  Parry  and  Lyon's  shij)s  were  at  Igloo  lik — then  looked  around  to  see 
what  made  the  noise  and  by  and  by  heard  another  gun  rei)ort  when  they  saw  the 
smoke  as  of  a  tired  gun  not  far  off,  arise  from  behind  some  land  &  immediately 
two  took  too  (deer)  came  running  swiftly  from  that  same  place  from  whence  they 
heard  the  gun  and  saw  the  smoke.  Then  Ar-tung-un  and  his  companion  were 
terribly  frightened  and  ran  to  their  tents  and  at  once  removed  their  families  from 
the  main  land  to  South  Oo  glit  by  the  means  of  their  ki-as  ;  the  distance  to  Ing- 
near-ing,  two  sleeps  or  three  days  from  this  island,  N.  Oo  glit.  jS^ever  saw  anything 
more  of  those  Et-ker  lin. 

l!5"ow  x\r-tung-un  tells  about  his  son  Koo-pa  and  other  Innuits  that  saw  Et- 
ker-lin.  One  time  (not  a  great  whileafter  the  above)  Ar-tung-un  &  Al-er-gaite  went 
deer  hunting  at  the  same  place  where  they  went  deer  hunting  before  together 
when  they  heard  the  gun  reports  &  saw  the  smoke  at  the  last  report.  The  par- 
ticular place  Ar-tung-un  now  marks  out  on  Parry's  chart  &  he  shews  the  place 
to  be  by  one  of  two  or  three  small  lakes  that  extend  to  the  Westward  of  the  very 
large  lake  I  discovered  and  passed  over  last  year  on  my  return  to  Eepulse  Bay 
from  Igloolik.  The  place  is  near  the  line  of  mountains  Parry  has  upon  his 
chart  »&  on  a  parallel  with  Og-big  seer  ping,  or  as  Parry  calls  it  Agivijyerwicl: 
They  killed  two  deer  &  made  a  cache  of  them  &  returned  to  their  tents  wheu 
they  sent  three  boys  after  them.  The  boys  were  Koo-pa,  In-nu,  &  Kia ;  the  latter 
(Kia)  In-nu-men's  brother.  Al-er-gaite  was  the  one  who  returned  to  the  tent  first; 
that  is,  he  got  back  before  Ar-tung-un  for  the  latter  lemained  out  overnight  to 
watch  a  deer  that  he  had  shot  with  an  arrow  which  remained  sticking  in  the 
deer's  side.  Al-er-gaite  was  the  one  that  sent  the  3  boys  after  the  two  deer. 
When  Ar-tung-un  got  back  the  boys  had  returned  without  the  deer  meat — had 
left  the  meat,  dogs  and  all,  for  they  had  seen  four  Et-ker-lin  near  where  the  two 
deer  had  been  deposited.  After  the  deer  had  been  put  apart  upon  the  backs  of 
the  dogs  and  a  part  prepared  and  put  upon  their  (the  boys')  own  shoulders  they 
saw  uiK)n  a  hill  not  far  off  four  Et  ker  lin  each  with  something  like  a  stick  in  his 


April,  186S.]  Conversations  with  Innuits.  599 

hand  and  heard  a  noise  like  foxes,  then  great  hiughter.  The  fox  noise  and  laugh- 
ter the  boys  did  not  hear  until  they  had  thrown  away  every  thing  and  were  run- 
ning away.  Before  the  boys  ran  they  saw  the  largest  or  tallest  one  of  the  Et-ler- 
kiu  Avho  was  very  tall  make  motions  with  his  right  hand  which  was  raised  high 
over  his  head.  The  motions  were  swinging  motions  from  the  Korth  to  the  South. 
Soon  as  the  frightened  boys  got  back  and  repeated  what  they  had  seen,  the 
Innuits  all  were  alarmed  and  the  lifting  stone  was  resorted  to,  which  said  the  4 
strange  beings  were  not  Et-ler-hin. 

Ar  tung  un  says  that  a  few  years  ago  he  was  out  hunting  at  Kee- wee-gee  a 
place  little  back  of  the  line  of  mountains  that  run  North  or  Westward  of  Am-i-toke 
on  a  parallel  of  Am-i-toke  when  too  frightened  deer  ran  swiftly  past  him.  Soon 
large  grey  dog  came  swiftly  on  their  track  which  the  dog  followed  by  scent. 
When  the  dog  saw  him  (Ar-tung-un)  it  stopped.  As  Ar-tung-un  was  about  to  fire 
an  arrow  at  the  beast  (dog)  he  saw  that  a  short  string  was  about  its  neck — when 
he  carefully  unbent  his  bow  and  tried  to  coax  the  dog  to  him  Kod-lu-na  way. 
The  dog  appeared  i^layful  but  was  too  shy  to  allow  Ar-tung-un  to  catch  hold  of 
the  string.  The  dog  was  following  the  deer  from  the  North  &  when  Ar-tung-un 
had  tried  to  catch  the  dog  it  ran  away  to  the  N.  W.  as  Ar-tung  un  shows  on 
Parry's  chart.  The  dog  had  short  hair  &  it  did  shine  very  much  something  like 
one  of  the  dogs  Parry  &  Lyon  had,  though  larger.  It  had  short  ears.  String 
short ;  only  touched  the  ground.  His  curiosity  so  excited  about  the  strangeness 
ness  of  the  dog  he  did  not  notice  what  Icind  of  string  it  was  about  the  dogs 
neck.  The  time  that  he  saw  the  dog  was  before  Dr.  Eae  came  to  Iwilllik  the  last 
time.  The  four  or  five  Et  Tcer  Un  at  Ing-near-ing  were  seen  before  Dr.  Eae  came  here 
the  first  time.  The  time  the  four  Et-ker-lin  seen  by  Koo-pa  &  the  other  two  boys 
was  after  Dr  Eae  was  here  first  time  as  Ar-tung-un  thinks  and  remembers.  The 
dog  a  very  small  body,  long  thin  legs  &  poor,  the  tail  long  &  curving  upward 
just  like  one  Parry  had  only  much  larger;  that  is,  the  dog  was  the  same  build 
or  form.  While  Parry's  was  black,  the  dog  he  saw  with  string  around  his  neck 
was  grey — (like  in  color  one  of  mine  old  See-gar  let  me  have,  "  grey.")  Ebierbing 
says  it  surely  was  a  grey  hound"  from  Ar-tung-un's  description.  Ar-tung-un 
says  they  had  three  dogs  on  board  Parry  and  Lyons  ships.  Ar-tung-un  having 
said  this ;  I  turned  to  pages  297  &  299  of  Lyon's  Private  Journal  &  see  that 
there  was  a  large  Newfoundland  dog,  a  grey-hound  belonging  to  Parry  &  a  ter- 
rier "  Spark"  belonging  to  Eeid  on  board  of  the  "Fury  &  Hecla." 

(It  is  with  great  exertion  that  I  have  kept  about  to  day  for  I  have  been  and 
am  now  really  sick.    I  caught  a  severe  cold  on  the  day  we  laid  over  at  our  first 


600  Conversations  with  Innults.  [Aphi,  ises. 

Igloo  encampment  on  the  sea  ice  of  Fox  Channel  at  Oo-soo  arku.  Thus  with  my 
sprained  leg  I  am  forced  to  think  myself  partially  if  not  wholly  an  invalid.) 

"  Saturday,  April  11th,  1868. — The  present  notes  I  make  +  morning,  for 
not  until  this  morning,  since  Friday  night,  have  I  been  able  to  rise  from  my  couch. 
I  shall  pencil  the  notes  as  if  made  at  the  date  of  the  heading. 

This  morning,  according  to  my  previous  arrangement,  Nub-er-lik,  accom- 
panied by  Frank  Lailor,  my  servant,  started  off  with  my  sledge  and  team  of  dogs 
for  I-gloo-lik  to  get  a  load  of  walrus  meat  belonging  to  Nub-er-lik  and  Too-goo-lat, 
which  meat  is  for  me  and  party  to  use  on  my  proposed  journey  to  Fury  and  Hecla 
Strait  to  the  Western  Sea  of  Ak  koo-lee.  Very  many  calls  have  I  had  to-day 
from  the  now  numerous  natives  here,  all  sympathizing  in  my  sickness.  Almost 
every  hour  a  family  from  Ping-it-ka-lik  arrives  here,  at  once  coming  in  to  see 
me,  and  then  proceed  to  erect  an  igloo  and  place  their  household  effects  in  it. 
My  arrival  has  caused  a  small  village  to  grow  into  quite  a  city. 

The  old  woman  Ar-na-loo-a,  of  Parry  fame,  called  in  to-day,  being  her  2d 
call  since  her  arrival  here.  She  expressed  deep  sorrow  that  I  was  sick,  and  said 
she  greatly  desired  that  1  would  soon  be  about  again.  She  says  that  she  was 
with  her  husband  many  years  ago  when  he  was  hunting  deer  not  a  great  ways 
from  the  mountains  west  of  Am-i-toke.  He  was  on  one  side  of  the  pond  and  she 
walking  on  the  opijosite  side.  Her  husband  found  a  tenting-place  at  the  foot  of 
a  mountain  close  by  the  pond.  He  found  there  a  large  oot-koo-seek,  i^ainted  red, 
and  a  tin  canister  of  same  color,  and  he  saw  half  a  plate  down  in  the  water  of  the 
pond.  There  were  strong  indications  that  salmon  had  been  cooked  in  the  large 
tin  can,  for  there  were  salmon-bones  about  the  can.  Everything  looked  fresh,  as 
if  done  not  long  before,  for  there  was  no  moss  or  rust  about  the  tin  cans.  Yet  slie 
and  her  husband  thought  no  one  could  have  left  these  things  there  but  Parry  or 
some  of  his  men.  The  large  can  now  at  Too-noo-nee-roo-shuk.  The  small  one  was 
given  to  her  brother,  who  is  now  near  Ig-loo-lik.  There  was  a  fire-place  of  stone 
by  the  tent-place.  She  saw  these  things  soon  after  Ar-tung-un  found  them.  Ar- 
na-loo-a  saw  the  tenting-place  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain  by  the  lake  of  the 
party  that  must  have  left  the  cans  and  made  the  fire-place.  Tliis  mountain  is 
some  distance  to  the of  the  wall  of  mountains  that  extend  far  to  the  north- 
ward back  or  west  of  Am-i-toke.  This  evening  an  Innuit  by  the  name  of  In-nu 
came  in  to  see  me,  he  having  just  arrived  from  Ping-it-ka-lik,  where  he  and 
family  are  stopping.  I  recognized  him  at  once  as  having  seen  him  at  Ig-loo-lik  on 
my  visit  last  year.  Knowing  liim  to  be  an  Innuit  who  was  of  the  party  of  the  three 
boys  who  saw  the  reported  four  Et-ker-hn  many  years  ago,  I  raised  my  head 


April,  186S.]  Conversations  with  Innuits.  601 

from  my  couch  and  asked  Lim  if  he  had  ever  seen  any  Et-ker-lin.  He  answered 
quickly  "  Na-o "  (no).  Following  this,  he  hesitated  a  moment,  and  then  cor- 
rected himself,  and  said,  many  years  ago  he  and  Kia  and  Koo-pa  together  went 
after  some  deer-meat  where  some  deer  had  been  killed ;  saw  three  Et-ker-lin.  He 
then  most  earnestly  and  most  eloquently  described  the  incident,  the  same,  save  a 
few  minor  points,  as  Koo-pa  had  told  me  at  Eepulse  Bay  a  short  time  before  start- 
ing on  this  journey." 

April,  12th,  1868,  now  1^  P.  M. — Ar-tung-un  present  as  well  as  half  a 
dozen  other  Innuits,  large  and  small.  I  now  ask  Ar-tung-un  about  his  once  find- 
ing an  oot-koo-seek  that  once  belonged  to  white  men  (as  told  me  by  his  son 
Koo-pa,  and  secondly  by  his  wife  Ar-ua-loo-a  yesterday).  Old  Ar-tung-un  has 
been  ankooting  and  no  answer  to  my  question  above  as  yet.  Parry's  chart  before 
him  all  the  time  while  ankooting,  his  withered  hand  coming  down  now  and  then 
for  its  fate.  I  had  placed  it  in  our  laps  for  the  purjDOse  of  his  showing  the  locality 
upon  the  spread  chart  so  forcibly  that  I  felt  alarmed  where  he  found  the  oot-koo- 
seek.    He  is  now  through  ankooting,  and  proceeds  to  tell  about  the  matter. 

Ar-tung-un  was  hunting  took-too  one  summer  a  long  time  ago  one  day's 
travel  from  the  line  of  mountains  eastward,  nearly  on  a  parallel  with  the  point 
where  Lyon  turned  back  when  seeking  to  find  a  pass  through  the  mountains  to 
the  western  sea  in  1823,  when  he  came  to  where  there  had  been  a  tenting-place — 
the  shape  of  the  tent  as  shown  by  the  stones  that  had  been  used  to  fasten  it  down 
square  or  oblong,  long  and  narrow.  It  was  not  such  a  tent  as  the  Innuits  use. 
The  particular  spot,  near  base  of  a  mountain  and  alongside  of  a  small  lake. 

Alongside  of  the  lake  he  found  an  ook-koo-seek,  about  1  foot  by  15  inches 
and  18  inches  deep,  as  shown  by  Ar-tung-un's  measuring  with  his  hand  on  Parry's 
chart.  It  was  tin,  and  painted  red — comjjletely  inclosed  exceirt  a  hole  in  the  top  of 
about  3  inches  diameter.  Inside  were  some  pieces  of  salmon  bones.  Besides  this 
oot-koo-seek  he  found  a  round  can  about  the  size  of  a  tin  kettle  hanging  by  our 
flre-lami),  and  this  was  i^ainted  red  too.  No  top  to  this,  but  there  was  some  very 
white  tallow  in  it.  Never  saw  any  cans  painted  like  this  on  Captain  Parry's  or  on 
Lyon's  ships.  This  can  was  painted  all  over  on  the  outside,  while  those  on  Cap- 
tains Parry  and  Lyon's  ships  were  only  x^aiuted  on  the  tops,  with  letters  on  the 
tops.  On  the  other  side  of  the  fresh-water  pond  found  an  earthern  stone  jug,  that 
is,  as  Ebierbing  says,  a  jug  like  one  Ar-mou  gave  me  some  seal-oil  in  a  little 
while  before  we  left  Repulse  Bay,  which  was  an  earthen  stone  jug  of  light  color. 
This  jug  Ar-tung-un  found  had  its  top  broken  ofi'.  These  cans  Ar-tung-un  found 
were  not  rusty,  nor  was  there  any  moss  about  them ;  was  very  much  surprised  at 


602  Conversations  with  Innuits.  [Apru,  ises. 

the  freshness  of  everything  about  them,  for  he  certainly  thought  that  nobody 
but  Parry  or  some  of  his  ships'  companies  couhl  have  tented  there  and  left  those 
things.  Alongside  of  the  tenting  spot  was  a  fire-place  of  two  stones  and  which 
were  blackened  with  smoke.  The  fire  that  had  been  used  was  the  Est-sbu-tiu 
(Andromeda  teitragona),  for  a  Uttle  of  it  was  there  in  a  little  pile  by  the  fire-place. 
Everything  looked  as  though  it  had  been  done  only  a  little  while  before.  The 
smoke  on  the  stones  would  not  have  been  there  on  simply  burning  Est-shu-tin 
more  than  two  or  three  years,  and  the  wood  would  have  been  white  and  looked 
very  different  from  what  it  did  in  less  time,  says  Ar-tung-un. 

The  time  when  he  found  these  things  was  before  he  heard  of  Dr.  Kae  being 
at  Iwillik  the  first  time.  He  heard  of  Dr.  Eae  being  at  Iwillik  the  next  summer 
after  Dr.  E.  left,  which  was  in  1847.  Ar-tung-un  does  not  now  think  it  possible 
that  these  things  could  be  left  as  he  found  them  by  Parry  or  his  men,  for  the 
salmon  meat  that  he  found  in  the  large  red  can  would  have  gone,  and  everything 
else  would  have  looked  much  older  altogether  than  they  did.  Koo-pa  and  the 
other  two  natives  with  him  saw  the  four  Et-ker-hn  before  Ar-tung-un  found 
these  things.  The  place  where  the  Et-ker-lin  were  seen  was  not  far  from  where 
Ar-tung-un  found  the  tenting-place  and  the  things  now  described.  This  much 
has  Ar-tung-un  told  me  as  a  man  speaking  without  any  thought  of  deception.  I 
can  read  the  man  like  a  book.     He  means  to  tell  the  truth,  and  only  the  truth. 

An  hour  after  the  above  interview  I  was  present  at  a  seal-feast  at  l!food-loo, 
where  was  congregated  a  large  number  of  Innuits;  and  when  through  with  the 
feast,  with  the  aid  of  my  "Joe"  (Ebierbing),  I  had  a  talk  with  Ar-tung  un,  in 
presence  of  all  the  Innuits  there,  for  the  purpose  of  testing  the  memory  and  accu- 
racy of  the  old  man.  I  asked  him  to  tell  me  about  the  little  dog  which  Avas  on 
board  Pan-y's  and  Lyon's  ship.  He  said  the  little  dog  was  a  great  favorite  with 
everybody,  and  was  a  spotted  one;  one  time  a  wolf  came  about  the  ships,  and 
this  little  dog,  with  Parry's  dog,  which  was  a  black  one,  I'an  after  the  wolf,  when 
several  white  men  liastened  after  the  dogs  to  bring  them  back.  After  a  while  the 
men  returned,  bringing  Parry's  dog,  but  they  could  find  nothing  of  the  little  pet  dog ; 
so  all  concluded  that  the  little  dog  must  have  been  killed  and  eaten  up  by  the  wolf. 
Next  day  (continued  Ar-tung-un)  some  of  the  white  men  went  (mt  to  see  if  they 
could  find  out  what  really  had  become  of  the  little  dog.  When  they  returned 
they  brought  the  head,  it  being  all  that  they  could  find  of  the  little  dog.  He 
could  not  remember  the  name  of  this  dog,  but  on  my  telling  him  it  was  "  Spark" 
he  then  smiled  and  said  it  sounded  just  like  it.  The  old  man  has  not  only  told 
the  facts  about  this  little  dog — a  terrier — as  related  by  Lyon,  whose  work  I  have. 


April,  1868.1  Conversations  with  Innuits.  603 

witli  me,  but  has  told  this  mucli  more,  that  the  do^-  was  spotted,  and  that  its  head 
"was  found.  I  asked  Ai-tun^-un  if  Parry  or  any  of  his  (Parry's)  i)eopIe  ever  had 
a  tent  or  a  party  at  King-rae-toke-big  for  the  purpose  of  killing  ducks  in  the 
summer  or  for  any  other  purpose.  He  said  "  No";  the  reason  some  Innuits  think 
so  is  because  some  beans  and  what  was  conjectured  to  be  a  Kob-lu-na  tentnig- 
place  were  found  there.  Ar-tung-un  said  Parry  and  Lyon  used  to  have  liunting 
parties  stationed  at  Ar-lang-nuk,  but  not  farther  south. 

IS^ORTH  Oo-GLiT  ISLES,  Monday,  April  13th,  1868. — This  morning  it  was 
found  that  the  ice-floe  was  passing  in  uj^on  the  island  from  the  eastward  ;  there- 
fore the  walrus-hunters  Avere  aroused  early.  Before  VI^  A.  M.  my  igloo  had  the 
better  half  of  a  very  huge  walrus  on  its  floor,  which  Too-goo-lut,  brother  of  Ik- 
ku-men,  now  of  Repulse  Bay,  killed  as  soon  as  he  got  upon  the  drifting-ice.  Soon 
as  the  walrus  was  killed,  Ebierbing  took  our  dogs  and  drew  in  the  part  as  indi- 
cated above. 

I  am  waiting  here  at  N.  Oo-glit  Isle  for  the  natives  to  get  a  sufficient  sui)ply 
of  walrus-meat  for  me  and  party  to  make  a  journey  to  the  northern  part  of  Mel- 
ville Peninsula  adjoining  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  and  then  search  for  white  men, 
or  such  indications  as  may  exist  there  to  prove  the  truth  of  the  many  reliable 
statements  that  have  been  made  to  me  by  some  of  the  Innuits  now  of  Repulse  Bay 
but  formerly  of  Ig-loo-lik,  and  by  some  of  the  natives  of  this  place;  I  am  stop- 
ping also  for  more  kow  (walrus-hide)  for  the  dog's  food. 

Wednesday,  April  irjth,  1868.— Now,  X''-10™  A.  M.,  and  I  have  just  had  a 
most  j)romi)t  response  to  my  invitation  for  certain  Innuits  to  come  to  my  igloo 
and  have  a  good  talk  with  me.  The  following  Innuits  are  present  seated  around 
me  on  our  bed-i)latforms  in  our  capacious  igloo: 

Old  i^eoi^le  that  saw  Parry:  Ar-tung-un  and  wife  Ar-na-loo-a,  Ag-loo-ka, 
Koo-loo-a,  Too-loo-ar-choo,  Oo-shoo,  daughter  of  Tuk-kee-lik-e-ta;  Tu-mu-king, 
In-noo-zhoo,  Ek-ke-ra,  In-uii,  wife  of  Arng-na-look-shoo-shark ;  Ebierbing  and 
Too-koo-li-too ;  Papa  and  wife. 

The  talk  begins  with  In-nu  (Joe  and  Hannah,  interpreters) : 

One  time  long  ago  In-nu,  Kia,  and  Koo-pa  went  after  some  deer  meat.  When 
they  got  there,  they  saw  three  men  on  the  top  of  a  hill  close  by;  they  had  such 
clothes  on  that  they  shook  very  much  in  the  wind.  They  all  were  sure  thej'  were 
not  Innuits,  but  thought  them  to  be  Et-ker-lin  (Indians).  In-nu  was  so  frightened 
he  cannot  remember  what  these  men  had  in  their  hands.  Cannot  tell  whether 
their  clothes  were  light  or  dark.  The  place,  near  the  high  land  west  of  Am-i-toke, 
between  the  large  lake  Tess-u-e-ark  and  the  high  land  west  of  it;  the  large  lake, 


604  Conversations  with  Innuits.  [Apru,  ises. 

the  one  I  and  Oii-e-la  passed  over  from  Ig-loo-lik  last  year.  Soon  as  he,  In-nu, 
and  the  other  boys  saw  these  Indians  they  threw  away  their  deer  meat,  leav- 
ing the  dogs  with  meat  on  their  backs,  and  then  ran  with  all  their  might  for 
home.        *        #        * 

Koo-loo-a  says  that  at  the  same  time  he  was  hunting  with  Kia  he  had  killed 
a  deer  and  sat  himself  down  on  a  rock  and  eat  some  of  the  meat.  When  he  was 
through  eating,  he  went  to  a  small  pool  or  lake  to  drink.  He  had  put  his  head 
down,  and  just  before  getting  his  mouth  to  the  water  he  heard  something  crack, 
which,  he  says,  was  ti-ma-na-to  (the  same)  as  the  crack  of  guns; — ^he  had  heard 
the  crack  of  guns  when  living  at  Too-noo-nee  (Pond's  Bay).  He  could  not  tell 
from  which  direction  the  sound  came  on  account  of  his  position  in  the  act  of 
drinking;  looked  about,  but  could  see  no  one,  and  did  not  hear  the  noise  again. 
The  place  was  near  the  N.  W.  extreme  of  Melville  Peninsula,  as  he,  Koo-loo-a, 
points  out  on  Parry's  chart.  Same  day  Koo-loo-a  heard  the  crack,  as  he  thought, 
of  a  gun :  while  walking  around  he  came  to  fresh  tracks  on  some  grass  and 
the  tracks  longer  than  his  foot,  the  tracks  so  fresh  that  the  blades  of  earth, 
grass  had  not  all  regained  their  upright  position.  Some  of  the  grass  was  then 
gradually  lifting  up  as  it  had  been  trod  upon.  The  steps  long  and  foot-marks 
''turning  out." 

iSText  morning  after  hearing  the  crack  and  seeing  tracks  both  Koo-loo-a  and 
Kia  moved  their  tents  and  families  away  from  that  place.  The  next  morning 
after  moving,  Koo-loo-a  went  to  work  fixing  the  skin  of  the  deer  he  had  killed. 

As  Koo-loo-a  was  late  in  getting  ready,  Ki-a  started  oft"  deer-hunting  alone. 
By  and  by  Kia  saw  a  man  coming  up  the  hill  on  which  he  (Kia)  was,  coming 
directly  toward  him.  Kia  thought  at  first  the  man  to  be  Koo-loo-a,  but  on  look- 
ing longer  and  more  observingly  Kia  saw  his  mistake,  for  it  was  not  Koo-loo-a, 
but  a  strange  man  having  a  cap  on  his  head  that  was  distinct  from  his  coat.  He 
saw  that  he  (the  stranger)  had  strange  clothes  on  and  carried  something  strange 
in  a  strange  way  on  his  shoulder.  Kia  could  not,  from  his  position  behind  the 
rock,  see  much  of  the  stranger's  face;  the  clothes  not  black  nor  white;  coat 
on  that  came  down  to  or  almost  to  his  knees ;  the  make  of  clothes  altogether 
difi'erent  from  lunuits.  The  stranger  had  something  across  his  shoulder  running 
diagonally;  this  something  was  long  and  wide  at  one  end  and  narrow  at  the  other 
end.  He  was  walking  rather  fast  and  going  directly  toward  the  point  on  N.  W. 
extremity  of  Melville  Peninsula,  as  showed  by  Kia  on  Parry's  chart.  Kia  fol- 
lowed tlie  stranger  n\}  for  some  time  and  looked  sluirp  at  him.  Kia  kept  himself 
hid  among  the  rocks  all  the  time.    Next  morning  Kia  and  Koo-loo-a  moved  their 


April,  1868.J  Conversations  with  Innuits.  605 

tents  and  families  to  the  same  place  as  when  Kia  saw  the  strange  man,  and  then 
they  all  saw  the  stranger's  tracks,  which  showed  a  long  foot  narrow  in  the  middle. 
Same  day  Koo-loo-a,  while  hunting,  saw  the  monument  and  cache  stones  he  has 
before  described.  From  there  (the  place  where  the  tents  were,  the  place  where 
strange  man  had  been  seen)  Koo-loo-a  and  Kia  with  their  families  removed  down 
to  Ar-lang-na-zhu  (Garry  Bay),  and  thej  saw  nothing  more  of  the  kind  he  (Koo- 
loo-a)  has  been  describing.  Now  0^  SO""  P.  M.;  Koo-loo-a  and  all  the  Innuits  are 
asked  to  get  at  the  year  when  the  above  took  place.  In  15  minutes  the  answer 
comes  by  the  show  of  13  raised  fingers  =  thirteen  years  ago  last  Fall.  This  brings 
it  out  that  it  was  in  1854  that  Kia  saw  the  white  man  that  I  have  not  the  least 
doubt  was  one  of  Sir  J.  Franklin's  men.        #        *        * 

Now  I  commence  a  talk  with  Oo-shoo,  the  wife  of  Too-goo-lat,  the  latter  the 
brother  of  the  good  and  kind-hearted  In  nu-men,  now  of  Eepulse  Bay,  but  lately 
of  Ig-loo-bk ;  Oo-shoo  is  the  daughter  of  Tak-ee-lik-ee-ta,  whose  portrait  Lyon  so 
faithfully  drew  for  Parry's  Narrative  of  his  second  voyage  for  the  discovery  of  the 
N.  W.  Passage.  Oo-shoo  says  that  she  was  at  Koong-wa  (the  Narrows  uniting  the 
N.  Pole  Lake  with  Christie  Lake)  many  years  ago,  where  a  party  of  her  people  was 
stopping,  deer-hunting,  in  the  fall.  There  at  tVr-  Narrows  deer  were  killed,  and 
some  placed  on  deposit  under  stones ;  a  pile  of  Est-shoo-lin  (dwarf  of  shrub  An- 
dromeda tetragona),  for  fuel,  was  picked  by  Oo-shoo  and  the  wife  of  Qua-sher. 
By  and  by  Qua-sher  and  Too-goo-lat  took  their  ki-as  and  proceeded  on  toward 
See-jak-big.  Too-koo-lat's  steiD-father  (an  old  man),  with  the  two  women  and  Oo- 
shoot  and  Kan-wong-a  (wife  of  Qua-sher)  stopped  a  while  at  Koong-wa,  then 
moved  along  on  the  land  by  Christie  Lake  in  the  direction  Qua-sher  and  Too-koo- 
lat  had  proceeded.  Half-way  to  Nu-ker-ta  (the  place  where  Ar-too-a  was  drowned) 
the  woman  and  the  old  man  made  a  stop,  tenting  there.  While  the  old  man  re- 
mained at  the  tent,  the  woman,  Oo-shoo  and  Kan-wong-a,  went  back  to  Koong- 
wa  (the  Narrows)  after  some  meat  and  things  they  could  not  carry  the  first  time, 
and  then,  after  getting  what  they  wanted,  they  started  back.  By  and  by,  want- 
ing to  rest,  they  sat  down  on  a  stone,  and  soon  Oo-shoo  saw  what  she  thought  to 
be  two  Innuits  5  soon  came  to  the  tracks  of  two  men,  which  greatly  frightened 
the  women.  The  tracks  were  those  of  two  men — of  one  large  man ;  the  tracks  of 
the  two  narrow  in  the  middle  and  long.  Before  the  women  got  to  their  tents 
they  heard  a  noise,  a  shouting  noise,  but  they  thought  it  must  have  been  the  old 
man  they  left  at  the  tent.  When  they  got  back  to  the  tent,  Oo-shoo  asked  the 
old  man  if  he  had  been  shouting,  and  he  said  no.  They  told  the  old  man  aU 
about  what  they  had  seen  and  heard.        *        #        # 


606  Conversations  ivith  Innuits.  iway.  isbo. 


PAPEE    C. 

J  OTTINGS  ON  A  SLEDGE  JOURNEY. 

I. — INFORMATION    PICKED  UP  MAY  8,    1869. 

Crozier  had  a  little  book  as  he  sat  in  Ow-wer's  tent,  and  wrote  notes.  He 
said,  while  in  the  tent,  "Ag-loo-ka  wonger,"  flatting  his  own  breast.  Outside,  he 
said  he  was  going  to  I-wil-lik,  making-  motions  with  his  hand  in  that  direction. 
ISJ^o  dog  with  Ag-loo-ka's  company ;  now-yers,  geese,  and  dncks  hanging  to  the 
boat.  One  man  only  very  fat,  the  others  all  poor.  One  man  with  Crozier  in  Ow- 
wer's  tent  said.  Tier-kin  wonger.  One  man  with  one  of  his  upper  teeth  gone,  and 
one  with  marks  on  the  indent  or  saddle  of  his  nose.  Trouble  thought  to  be 
among  the  men ;  but  not  so.  They  were  putting  up  the  tent  and  stopped,  star- 
ing at  the  Innuits.  When  Crozier  spoke  to  them  then,  they  at  once  resumed  their 
work.  The  Innuits  left  Crozier  and  men  encamped  there,  and  moved  inland,  sus- 
picious that  they  abandoned  starving  men.  Crozier  described  to  them  the  ice 
destroying  their  vessel,  his  men  dying;  the  full  meaning  comprehended  afterward 
by  the  Innuits.  An  awning  over  the  boat,  roof-like.  No  sword  worn  by  Crozier. 
In  a  little  bay  were  Crozier's  party  when  the  Innuits  first  saw  them.  One  man 
cross-eyed  or  squinted.  Same  boat  found  on  mainland,  (or  rather  isle,  as  the  tide 
is  high  on  the  west  side  of  inlet  of  Point  Richardson.) 

Crozier,  while  in  Ow-wer's  tent,  eat  a  piece  of  seal,  raw,  about  as  big  as  fore 
and  next  fingers  to  first  joint. 

II.— MAY  11,  1869. 

Poo-yet-ta  was  the  Innuit  who  first  found  these  remains  of  the  five  whites. 
The  remains,  some  not  buried,  but  some  found  lying  down  on  the  high  parts  of 
the  island,  all  close  together,  and  each  fully  dressed ;  flesh  all  on  the  bones,  and 
unmutilated  by  any  animals.  Next  to  Too-loo-a's  body,  was  one  preserved-meat 
can.  This  can  found  by  Poo-yet-ta  beside  the  body  of  Too  loo-a  unopened.  It 
was  opened  by  the  Innuits  and  found  to  contain  meat  and  much  tood-noo  M'ith  it. 
No  bad  smell  to  it.  The  contents  eaten  by  the  Innuits.  The  meat  and  fat  very 
sweet  and  good.    A  jack-knife  found  in  the  pocket  of  one  of  the  five  men. 

The  graves  of  the  two  men  (white)  that  are  buried  on  the  point  of  King  Will- 
iam's Land  on  the  east  side  the  mouth  of  Pefifer  River  were  found  by  Nee-wik- 
tee-too,  a  Neitchille  Innuit  now  dead.  His  widow,  the  old  lady  with  shaking  head 
at  twenty-seventh  encampment,  whom  I  saw  when  there.    The  bodies  buried  by 


May,  1869.]  Convevsations  with  Innuits.  607 

j)laciiig  stones  aroiind  aiifl  over  them;  the  remains  facing  upward, and  the  hands 
had  been  folded  in  a  very  precise  manner  across  the  breasts  of  botli ;  clotlies  all 
on ;  tiesh  all  on  the  bones.  On  the  back  of  each  a  suspended  knife  found.  The 
bodies  perfect  wh«n  found,  but  the  Innuits  having  left  the  remains  unburied,  after 
unearthing  them,  the  foxes  have  eaten  meat  and  sinews  all  off  the  bones.  A  tent- 
ing-place  of  the  whites  close  by  where  these  two  men  were  buried.  Many  nee- 
dles and  one  nail  found  by  the  Innuits  at  this  tenting-place. 

These  remains  found  the  same  spring  as  those  of  this  island,  Kee-u-na. 
There  being  nothing  for  the  subsistence  of  any  living  thing  on  the  isle,  it  is  there- 
fore called  Kee-u-na. 

The  boat  on  the  west  side  of  the  inlet — ^that  is,  west  side  of  Point  Eichard- 
son — was  found  same  season  of  same  year  as  remains  at  Kee-u-na.  A  keg  of  pow- 
der found  at  the  boat,  and  much  of  contents  emptied  on  the  ground ;  a  gun  or  two 
found  there.  The  nature  and  use  of  these  things  not  known  to  Innuits  till  they 
saw  Dr.  Eae  in  1854  at  Pelly  Bay.  Poo-yet-ta  had  seen  guns  of  Ag-loo-ka  when 
at  Neitchille,  but  did  not  know  the  nature  of  the  black  sand  stuff  (powder).  An 
igloo  was  blown  to  atoms  by  a  little  son  of  Poo-yet-ta  and  another  lad,  who  were 
afterward  playing  with  the  powder  canister  having  some  of  the  black  stuff  in  it. 
They  dropped  some  fire  into  the  canister  through  the  vent  or  opening;  their  faces 
were  awfully  burned  and  blackened  with  the  explosion ;  no  one  was  kiUed,  but 
the  igloo  completely  demolished.  The  grave  and  remains  were  in  same  perfect 
methodical  state  when  found  as  those  at  the  two  at  the  mouth  of  Pefifer  River. 
This  grave  on  King  William's  Land  about  due  north  of  Kee-u-na.  The  body  dug 
up  and  left  unburied  by  the  Innuits.  This  white  man  was  very  large  and  tall, 
and  by  the  state  of  gums  and  teeth  was  terribly  sick,  (bad  state),  as  In-nook-poo- 
zhee-jook  described. 

III. — TALK  IN  AN  IGLOO   ON  TODD'S  ISLAND,   MAY  14,  1869. 

Now,  noon  and  the  wife  of  Tiik-pee-too  present  in  our  igloo  at  my  request, 
having  understood  that  she  has  seen  some  of  the  skeleton-bones  of  the  five  men  who 
died  on  this  island,  Kee-u-na  (Todd's  Isle) ;  her  name,  E-vee-shuk.  I  now,  with 
Jack's  assistance  as  interpreter,  ask  her  two  questions :  Did  you  see  anything  of 
the  men  who  died  on  this  island  ?  Answer.  She  has  seen  five  skulls  of  the  white 
men  who  died  a  long  time  ago  here.  Did  you  see  Too-loo-ark?  Answer.  Saw  the 
bodies  of  four  white  men  in  one  place  on  the  island,  and  of  Too-loo-ark  a  little 
way  from  the  four.  When  she  first  saw  them  flesh  and  clothing  on  all  the  men  ; 
the  bodies  entire ;   and  after  making  tupiks  near,  the  dogs  devoured  much  of  the 


608  Conversations  with  Innuits.  [Jniy.  i869. 

flesh  of  the  kob-lu-nas.  It  was  some  time  after  this  that  she  saw  the  five  skulls 
she  first  spoke  of  as  having  seen.  She  saw  these  bodies  entire  one  winter  after 
Poo-yet- ta  found  them,  and  the  clothes  these  men  had  on  were  blade; — their 
kum-mins  (boots)  those  men  had  on  were  of  the  same  kind  of  leather  as  the  belt 
I  have  given  to  In-nook-poo-zhe-jook  5  tanned  leather  from  the  United  States. 
Were  these  men  buried?  Answer.  No,  they  were  lying  as  they  had  died,  on 
the  top  of  the  ground.  Where  are  the  skeletons  now  ?  Answer.  On  this  island, 
some  in  one  place  and  some  in  another,  but  all  are  under  the  snow ;  have  tried  to 
find  them  since  we  arrived  here,  but  the  snow  covers  them  so  deep  cannot  find 
even  one  bone.  When  snow  is  gone  all  the  bones  can  be  seen.  Did  you  ever  hear 
of  any  white  men  dying  on  Ke-ki-tuk-ju-a  (Montreal  Island)  ?  No,  never.  Did 
you  ever  go  to  the  place  where  the  boat  with  many  dead  kob-lu-nas  were  found  by 
the  Innuits  on  the  other  side  of  the  strait?  Yes,  I  have  been  there.  Where  is  the 
place  ?  I  now  show  her  Kae's  chart,  and  have  shown  it  to  her  before,  but  not  for 
the  object  I  now  have.  On  ascertaining  the  position  of  Point  Ogle,  Miscononchie 
Isle,  and  Point  Eichardson,  she  puts  her  finger  on  the  west  side  of  the  inlet  west 
side  of  Point  Eichardson,  and  says  that  was  the  place  where  the  boat  was  found. 
Did  you  see  any  bones  of  white  men  there  ?  She  did ;  the  land  low  and  muddy 
there;  the  sea-water  close  to;  saw  pieces  of  the  boat,  after  the  Innuits  had  broken 
it  up.  Can  bones — skeleton  bones — be  seen  there  now,  when  snow  and  ice  are 
gone  ?  Answer.  She  thinks  not,  for  it  is  so  muddy  there,  and  the  mud  soft,  that 
they  have  all  sunk  down  into  it.  She  continues :  One  man's  body  when  found  by 
the  Innuits,  flesh  all  on,  not  mutilated,  except  the  hands  sawed  off  at  the  wrists; 
the  rest,  a  great  many  had  their  flesh  cut  off  as  if  some  one  or  other  had  cut  it  off 
to  eat. 

I  now  go  further  on  this  island  than  our  igloo  is,  for  this  woman  to  show  me 
where  she  saw  the  five  dead  men  before  they  were  partially  eaten  by  dogs. 

Tuk-pee-too  and  his  wife  E-vee-shuk,  with  one  of  their  little  ones,  have  just 
taken  a  walk  with  me,  the  woman  leading  me  to  the  place  where  the  five  men  died. 
It  is  the  southeastern  end  of  the  island,  within  20  fathoms  of  the  shore.  I  have 
just  marked  the  spot,  on  which  we  shall  erect  a  monument,  over  which  we  shall 
pay  our  humble  tribute  to  the  noble  dead. 

ONE  OF  HALL'S  CONVERSATIONS  WITH  IN-NOOK-POO-SHE-JOOK  AFTER  HIS  RETURN 

FROM  KING  WILLIAM'S  LAND. 

July  5, 1869. — Another  short  interview  with  In-nook-poo-she-j  00k  this  morn- 
ing about  ten  o'clock,  just  before  he  and  the  Innuits  started  oft*  on  a  sealing  ex- 
cursion.   Ar-mou  assisted  me  in  this  brief  talk^  as  Joe  and  Hannah  were  both 


July,  1S69.]  Conversations  ivith  Inmdts.  609 

busily  engaged  outside  of  the  tent.  By  the  by,  I  can  use  quite  a  number  of  the 
Repulse  Bay  natives  to  good  advantage  as  interpreters  when  I  talk  with  natives 
of  distant  places,  such  as  Neit-chille,  Pelly  Bay,  and  Ig-loo-lik.  With  the  English 
Admiralty  chart  before  us,  I  asked  In-nook-iioo-shee-jook  to  tell  me  again  where 
the  monument  had  been  erected  that  had  the  long  stone  on  top  pointing  toward 
Ki-ki-tuk  (King  William's  Land),  which  he  told  me  about  yesterday.  He  then 
pointed  to  the  same  place  as  yesterday,  to  wit,  on  the  coast  south  side  of  Inglis 
Bay,  south  of  the  long  narrow  island  which  is  but  a  little  way  east  of  the  mouth 
of  Castor  and  Pollux  Kiver,  discovered  by  Dease  and  Simpson  in  1839,  the  terminal 
point  of  their  discoveries  in  that  direction.  In-nook-poo-she-jook  then  placed  a 
board-nail  which  I  had  in  my  hand  directly  over  the  spot  of  the  monument,  the 
same  nail  pointing  to  Shar-too,  and  thence  on  to  Point  Victory,  where  another 
monument  had  been  erected  by  white  men  and  found  by  the  Innuits.  I  was  not 
only  deeply  interested  in  this  particular  description  of  his,  but  greatly  surprised, 
for  he  particularly  said  that  the  long  stone  on  the  top  of  that  monument  not  only 
pointed  in  the  direction  of  Shar-too  (Cajje  Colvile,  low  land  opposite  the  S.  E. 
extreme  of  King  William's  Land)  but  to  the  place  of  the  monument  that  had  been 
erected  north  side  of  the  inlet  at  the  northwest  extreme  of  King  William's  Land — 
that  is,  at  Point  Victory.  He  said  that  Innuits  who  saw  the  said  monument 
south  side  of  Inglis  Bay  noted  what  he  states. 

After  seeing  the  direction  in  which  this  nail  pointed  to  the  northward  and 
westward,  I  drew  a  line  in  the  opposite  direction,  to  the  southward  and  eastward, 
to  see  if  it  might  not,  if  prolonged,  come  near  to  Repulse  Bay,  and  found  such 
to  be  the  fact ;  therefore,  the  pointing  stone  may  have  been  intended  by  those 
who  placed  it  there  to  indicate  whence  they  had  come  and  to  what  i)lace  they 
were  bound.  But  this  latter  is  of  my  OAvn  conjecture,  founded  upon  what  In- 
nook-poo-shee-jook  has  told,  and  ui)on  what  information  has  been  derived  from 
some  of  the  Repulse  Bay  and  Ig-loo-lik  natives. 

Before  I  proceed  to  note  the  remainder  of  the  information  gained  in  this 
morning's  interview,  I  will  transcribe  a  few  lines  from  Dr.  Rae's  report  of  his 
journey  of  1854 — such  part  of  it  as  refers  to  a  monument  he  found  in  the  very 
locality  pointed  out  as  above  by  In  nook-poo-sheejook.  Dr.  Rae  at  the  time  was 
in  Inglis  Bay  at  the  embouchure  of  Murchison  River;  when  the  report  reads: 

"  The  weather  was  overcast  with  snow  when  Ave  resumed  our  journey  at 

8.30  p.  m.     On  the  27th  of  April  we  directed  our  course  directly  for  the  shore, 

which  we  reached  after  a  sharp  walk  of  one  and  a  half  hours,  in  doing  which  we 

crossed  a  long  stony  island  of  some  miles  in  extent.     As  by  this  time  it  was  snow- 

S.  Ex.  27 ;51) 


610  Conversations  tvith  Innuits.  rj«iy,  iseo. 

ing  heavily,  I  made  my  men  travel  on  the  ice,  the  walking  being  better  there, 
whilst  I  followed  the  windings  of  the  shore,  closely  examining  every  object 
along  the  beach. 

"After  pasfsing  several  heaps  of  stones  which  had  evidently  covered  Es- 
kimo caches,  I  came  to  a  collection  larger  than  any  I  had  seen,  and  clearly  not 
intended  for  the  protection  of  property  of  any  kind  ;  the  stones,  generalh-  speak- 
ing, were  small,  and  had  been  built  in  the  form  of  a  pillar,  but  the  top  had  fallen 
down,  as  the  Eskimo  had' previously  given  me  to  understand  was  the  case.  Call- 
ing my  men  to  land,  1  sent  one  to  trace  what  looked  like  the  bed  of  a  small  river, 
immediately  west  of  us,  whilst  the  other  men  and  myself  cleared  away  the  i)ile  of 
stones  in  search  of  a  document.  Although  no  document  was  found,  there  could 
be  no  doubt  in  my  own  mind  and  in  that  of  my  companion  that  its  construction 
was  not  that  of  the  natives.  My  belief  that  we  had  arrived  at  the  Castor  and 
Pollux  Eiver  was  confirmed  when  the  person  who  had  been  sent  to  trace  the  ap- 
parent stream-bed  returned  with  the  information  that  it  was  clearly  a  river. 

*  *  *  "  Having  spent  upwards  of  an  hour  in  fruitless  search  for  a  mem- 
orandum of  some  kind,  we  began  to  retrace  our  steps,"  &c. 

I  will  follow  the  extract  with  a  remark  or  two.  Taking  the  story  of  In-nook- 
poo-shee-jook  and  the  i)receding  extract  of  Eae's  report  into  consideration,  it  is 
quite  certain  that  the  monument  was  that  of  white  men. 

ISTow  Dease  and  Simpson  give  no  account  in  their  first  report  of  having 
erected  any  mark  there — that  is,  at  the  place  where  their  discoveries  ended — to 
wit,  at  Castor  and  Pollux  Eiver ;  but  in  the  Narrative,  Simpson  does  give  the 
account  of  raising  a  monument  at  the  extent  of  their  discovery,  viz,  Castor  and 
Pollux  Eiver!  They  also  state  that  they  erected  a  monument  at  Cape  Britannia 
and  another  at  Cape  Herschel.  To  mj^  mind,  it  appears  reasonable  that  Sir  John 
Frankliu'S  Expedition  was  not  idle  after  getting  besets  as  it  did  on  the  12th  Sep- 
tember, 1840,  near  King  William's  Land.  As  the  spring  of  1847  opened,  it  is 
altogether  likely  that  exploring  sledge  parties  were  started  off,  one  at  least  down 
the  west  side  of  King  William's  land  to  connect  the  discoveries  of  Sir  John  Eoss' 
exi)edition  with  that  of  Dease  and  Simpson's,  while  another,  quite  likely,  pro- 
ceeded down  the  east  side  to  connect  discoveries  that  had  been  made  by  the  same 
expeditions.  Of  course.  King  William's  Land  was  found  to  be  an  island,  and 
the  whole  coast  of  tlie  iniiinlnnd  (Boothia)  from  Cape  Porter  to  Castor  and  Pollux 
Eivers  was  most  undoubtedly  explored  and  a  record  of  these  facts  made  and 
cached,  in  tliat  particular  monument  referred  to  by  Eae  in  1854  and  now  by  In- 
nook-jtoo-shee-jook.     That  some  pai'ty  of  Franklin's  Ex])edition  visited  the  east 


July,  1869.]  Conversations  with  Innuits.  611 

side  of  King  William's  Land,  we  have  the  trace  in  the  knife  at  Cape  Livingston 
which  an  Innuit  found  under  some  stones,  as  related  by  In-uook-poo-shee-jook 
in  a  late  interview,  as  recorded  in  this  book.  I  now  proceed  to  note  the  re- 
mainder of  the  information  old  In-nook-poo-she-jook  communicated  in  this  morn- 
ing's interview.  I  asked  him  where  the  other  monument  was  with  a  stone  on  its 
top  pointing  in  a  certain  direction  that  he  had  told  me  about  when  1  first  met  him. 
He  said  it  was  at  Shar-too,  at  the  same  time  putting  his  finger  on  the  chart 
and  moving  it  along  down  the  east  coast  of  Simpson's  Peninsula  till  his  finger 
rested  on  Point  Anderson  and  Cape  Barclay,  which  are  at  the  entrance  north 
side  of  Keith  Bay,  and  then  he  said,  "  That  is  E-to-uki,"  meaning  the  projections 
Point  Anderson  and  Cape  Barclay.  Then  he  moved  his  finger  carefully  along  up 
the  coast  till  he  got  to  Points  J.  &  R.  Clouston,  or  Clouston  Points,  as  they  are 
called  in  the  Admiralty  chart,  when  he  said  that  is  where  that  monument  was,  and 
the  stone  on  top  was  pointing  directly  towards  a  small  island  that  is  far  out 
to  the  eastward  and  northward  of  where  the  monument  was.  He  furthermore 
said  that  at  the  time  he  was  there  he  was  on  his  way  to  Repulse  Bay  and  he  saw 
about  there,  tracks  of  strangers — not  Innuit  tracks — but  then,  no  monument  was 
there.  A  short  time  after,  the  same  season,  a  party  of  Innuits  passed  the  same 
place,  and  then  there  was  a  monument  with  the  stone  on  top  pointing  towards 
the  said  islet  in  the  of&ng. 


APPENDIX  V. 


DEMAND  FOR  WHALE  AND  SEAL  OIL  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  JUTE. 


A-PPEISTDIX   V. 


WHALE  AND  SEAL  OIL  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  JUTE. 

It  is  well  kuown  that  the  vicinity  of  Hudson's  Bay  has  of  late  years  become 
less  and  less  inviting  to  the  whaler  in  place  of  proving  the  more  and  more  prof- 
itable, as  anticipated  by  Hall  for  his  New  London  friends.  In  addition  to  the 
special  reasons  for  this,  growing  out  of  the  shortness  of  whaling  season  there, 
the  difficulty  of  access  and  of  the  navigation  of  the  straits  and  bay,  the  almost 
entire  disuse  of  whale-oil  for  lighting  and  other  purposes  will  be  readily  remem- 
bered. But  it  will  also  be  remembered  that  this  disuse  was  scarcely  foreseen 
by  Hall  in  his  sincere  and  sanguine  hopes  of  opening  up  new  fishing-grounds, 
asked  for  by  the  whalers  when  he  went  out. 

Yet  an  exhaustion  of  the  whaling-grounds  which  are  now  visited  may  turn 
the  ships  back  to  Hudson's  Bay ;  nor  can  any  one,  to-day,  foresee  that  some  new 
appliances  in  the  advance  of  the  age  may  not  awaken  such  large  and  new  demands 
for  the  oil  and  the  bone  as  will  also  justify  the  revisiting  of  Hudson's  Bay  and 
its  inlets. 

The  following  statement  of  the  whale  fishery  as  it  was  in  the  year  18G5  is 

taken  from  the  Whalemen's  Shipping  List. 

******* 

"  On  the  whole,  the  success  of  the  northern  fleet  has  not  been  very  encourag- 
ing, for  although  oil  and  bone  are  commanding  apparently  high  prices,  yet  almost 
every  article  of  merchandise  has  advanced  more  than  our  staples,  and  the  enor- 
mous expense  attending  a  whaling  voyage  in  these  times  will  require  a  much 
larger  catch  to  make  any  favorable  compensation  to  owners  of  these  vessels. 

"Although  the  weather  in  the  Arctic  and  Ochotsk  has  been  very  boisterous, 
there  have  been  only  two  vessels  lost  the  last  season — the  Henry  Kneeland,  in 
the  Arctic,  and  the  Mary,  in  the  Ochotsk. 

"  The  success  in  the  Hudson's  Bay  whaling  did  not  come  up  to  our  expecta- 

Gir> 


616 


Whalinf/ Interests,  1865. 


tious  the  past  year.  The  great  ditiiculty  appears  to  be  the  short  time  between 
the  breaking  up  of  the  ice  and  the  closing-  up  of  the  same,  rendering  the  season 
available  for  whaling  extremely  short.  Whales  seem  to  be  plenty,  but  they  arc 
very  shy  and  difficult  to  cai)ture.  There  were  four  arrivals  from  Hudson's  Bay  in 
1804 — three  into  New  Bedford  and  one  into  New  London — bringing  3,454  barrels 
ATliale-oil  and  55,000  pounds  bone.  There  are  now  wintering  in  Hudson's  Bay 
aud  Cumberland  Inlet  twelve  American  whalers — the  Antelope,  Ansel  Gibbs, 
Black  h^agle,  Glacier,  Morning  Star,  and  Orray  Taft,  Cornelia,  George  &  JNIary, 
Helen  F.,  Monticello,  Pioneer,  and  Concordia, — all  of  which  will  probably  arrive 
home  next  fall. 

"  Of  the  American  whalers  from  the  north,  twenty-three  arrived  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, forty-two  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  one  at  Monterey,  and  one  at  Panama. 
All  the  foreign  whalers  arrived  at  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

f  Of  the  eighty-one  whalers  which  sailed  from  home  ports  in  1864,  nineteen 
were  bound  to  the  North  Pacific,  fifteen  to  Cumberland  Inlet  and  Hudson's  Bay, 
five  to  Desolation  and  Hurd's  Island,  and  the  balance,  sperm-whaling  to  the  At- 
lantic, Indian,  and  Pacific  Oceans. 

"  From  i^resent  appearances,  the  import  of  sperm-oil  will  be  considerably  less 
this  year  than  in  1864.  The  fleet  on  the  Pacific  coast  is  very  small,  and  doing 
very  little,  with  one  or  two  exceptions.  The  South  Pacific  fleet  is  also  much  re- 
duced, and  has  done  poorly.  Very  few  ships  are  in  the  Indian  Ocean.  The 
fleet  in  the  Atlantic  has  done  better,  although  whaling  has  been  much  inter- 
rupted about  the  Western  Islands,  the  "Two  Forties"  and  other  grounds  by 
uncommon  rough  weather.  The  quantity  of  oil  landed  at  Fayal  in  1864  by 
whalers  is  4,862  barrels  sperm,  883  barrels  whale ;  also  1 ,395  pounds  bone.  All 
the  oil  but  about  300  barrels  has  arrived  home. 

Uxports  of  sperm-oil,  whale-oil,  and  whalebone  from  the  United  States. 


Year. 


Sperm- 
oil. 


I  Barrels. 

1864 45,000 

1803 1  18,806 

1862 27,976 

1861 37,547 

1800 32, 792 

1859 52,207 


Whale- 
oil. 


Barrels. 
12, 000 
11,297 
08, 583 
49, 909 
13, 007 
8,179 


Whale- 
bone. 


Pounds. 
530, 000 
279,  394 

1,  004, 981 

1,145,013 
911,226 

1.707,929 


Wlialmg  Interests^  1865. 


617 


Imports  from  1845  to  1864. 


Year. 


1864 
1863 
1862 
1861 
1860 
1859 
1858 
1857 
1856 
1855 
1854 
1853 
1852 
1851 
1850 
1849 
1848 
1847 
1846 
1845 


Sperm- 
oil. 


Wlialo 
oil. 


Whiilc- 
bono. 


Barrels. 

64,  372 

65, 055 

55, 641 

68, 932 

73, 708 

91,408 

81,941 

78, 440 

80,941 

72, 649 

76, 696 

103,  077 

78. 872 

99, 591 

92, 892 

100, 944 

107, 976 

120, 753 

95, 217 

157,917 


Barrels. 
71,863 
62, 974 
100, 478 
133, 717 
140, 005 
190,411 
182, 2-23 
230, 941 
197, 890 
184, 015 
319, 837 
260, 114 
84,211 
328, 483 
200, 608 
248, 492 
280, 656 
313, 150 
207,  493 
272, 730 


Pounds. 
760, 450 

488, 750 
763, 500 
1,038,4.50 
1,337,6.50 
1,923,8.50 
1,-540,800 
2, 058, 900 
2, 592, 700 
2, 707,  .500 
3,  445, 200 
5, 6.52,  300 
1,2.59,900 
3, 966, 500 
2, 869, 200 
2,281,100 

2,  003,  000 

3,  341, 680 
2, 276,  930 
3, 167, 142 


Importation  of  sperm-oil^  whale-oil,  and  whalebone  into  the  United  States 

in  1864. 

1 

Where. 

Sperm- 
oil. 

Whale- 
oil. 

Whale- 
bone. 

New  Bedford  .              ....                  .....>..         ... 

Barrels. 

48, 172 

1,278 

2,241 

500 

881 

155 

Barrels. 

35, 883 

711 

32 

525 

4 

9 

Pounds. 
224,2.50 
600 

Fairhaveu 

Westport 

Dartmouth  . 

Mattapoisett 

700 

Sippican 

District  of  New  Bedford 

53, 227 

915 

78 

1,850 

90 

153 

931 

1, 133 

3,894 

2,101 

37, 164 

8,091 

18 

1,742 

20 

1,525 

232 

505 

9, 611 

12, 955 

225, 550 
149,  600 

New  London •. 

Nantucket .. 

Provincetown 

Salem 

2,600 

Edgartown 

15,650 

1,700 

3, 700 

159, 000 

202, 650 

Falmouth 

Sag  Harbor 

Boston 

New  York 

Total 

64, 372 

71,  863 

760, 450 

Average  prices  of  oil  per  gallon  and  bone  per  pound. 

Sperm. 

1864 $1  78 

1863 1  61 

1862 1  42i 

1861 ,. 1  314 

1860 1  4U 


Whale. 

Bone. 

$1  28 

$1  80 

95i 

1  53 

59^ 

82 

44i- 

66 

49^ 

8(H 

618  Marliham  on  tJie  Use  of  Oils  in  Making  Jute. 


THE  USE  OF  WHALE  AND  SEAL  OIL  IX  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  JUTE. 

The  reports  of  Mr.  C.  R.  Markham,  one  of  the  Secretaries  of  the  Royal  Geo- 
graphical Society,  London,  on  the  new  demand  for  animal  oils  in  the  manufacture 
of  the  important  article  of  jute,  are  in  i)oint  as  regards  the  new  uses  and  new  de- 
mands of  the  day  upon  the  whaler. 

Mr.  Markham's  paper  (Parliamentary)  awakened  an  interest  in  this  direction 
which  prompted  a  request  for  statistics  on  the  whale  trade  and  its  connection 
with  the  jute  manufacture  at  Dundee.  The  full  reply  to  these  inquiries  made  by 
United  States  Consul  McDougall,  through  the  State  and  Na\^  Departments,  is 
here  appended  as  of  interest  in  this  twofold  relation. 

[Extract  from  Parliamentary  Paper  150  ou  the  Moral  antl  Material  Condition  of  India  during  the 
year  1872-7:5,  presented  to  Parliament  by  C.  R.  Markham,  Esq.,  1874.] 

"  The  most  valuable  special  article  of  export  from  Calcutta,  next  to  cotton, 
opium,  and  rice,  is  jute.  The  quantity  of  jute  exported  in  1828  was  3G4  cwt., 
worth  £G2,  and  the  extraordinary  increase  that  has  since  taken  place  is  due 
solely  to  the  energy  of  the  Eyots  of  Bengal.  They  found  it  profitable,  engaged 
in  it  with  alacrity,  and  created  the  trade.  The  large  import  of  cheap  Russian 
flax  into  this  country  at  first  kept  down  the  demand  for  jute,  but  this  source  of 
supply  was  destroyed  when  the  Russian  war  broke  out  in  1854,  and  the  demand 
for  jute  became  brisk.  The  Ryots  seized  the  opportunity  without  any  prompting 
or  assistance. 

"  From  1858  to  1863  the  average  exportation  of  jute  from  Calcutta  was 
907,724  cwt.  From  1863  to  1808  it  had  risen  to  2,628,110  cwt.  The  quantity  of 
raw  jute  exported  in  1872-'73  was  7,080,912  cwt.,  worth  £4,142,547,  an  increase  of 
nearly  a  million  hundred-weight  as  compared  with  the  i)revious  year.  Thus  the 
Ryots  have  created  and  extended  an  industry  in  forty-five  years  to  a  value  of 
more  than  four  and  a  quarter  millions,  without  uny  official  encouragement  or  aid 
whatever. 

''In  1872  there  were  3,955,455  cwt.  of  jute  imi)orted  into  the  United  Kingdom 
from  India  and  69,000  cwt.  from  other  countries.  Of  this  quantity  3,200,455  cwt. 
are  used  in  Great  Britain,  almost  entirely  in  Dundee.  The  remaining  755,000  arc 
re-exported.  France  takes  148,870  cwt.  direct  from  Calcutta  and  550,500  cwt. 
from  England;  Trieste  takes  9,000  cwt.  direct  from  India;  Holland  receives 
5,357  from  India  and  58,610  cwt.  from  England.  In  1872  Germany  took  77,831 ; 
Belgium,  31,192;  Spain,  20,708;  and  other  countries,  16,176  cwt.  by  re-exporta- 


Markham  on  the  Use  of  Oils  in  Making  Jute.  619 

tion  from  England.  Large  power-mills  have  also  been  established  for  spinning 
and  weaving  the  liber  under  European  management  in  India.  At  the  Barnag- 
pur  MiUs,  near  Calcutta,  there  were  17  Euroj)ean  overseers,  4,700  natives,  and  the 
mills  work  up  10,000  tons  of  jute  in  a  year.  There  are  also  jute-mills  at  Fort 
Gloster,  down  the  Hugli ;  at  Budge-budge,  at  Eishra,  at  Chapdani,  and  two  at 
SerampiJr.  Women  and  boys  are  employed  in  the  spinning,  winding,  and  sew- 
ing, and  men  in  weaving ;  the  rates  of  wages  being  for  men  11  annas  a  day,  for 
women  5  annas  5  pie,  and  for  boys  3  annas  5  pie.  The  work  is  practically  con- 
fined to  making  gunny  bags  and  cloths,  and  the  total  value  of  the  gunny-bags, 
cloths,  twine,  and  rope  exported  in  1872-'73  was  £835,911.  The  success  of  these 
jute-mills  has  been  very  great,  and  there  are  also  many  jute  screw-houses  and 
warehouses. 

"It  is  remarkable  how  various  industries,  carried  on  at  xast  distances,  act 
upon  each  other.  The  growth  of  jute  in  Bengal  led  to  its  manufacture  in  Dun- 
dee, and  this  caused  the  revival  of  the  whale  fishery  in  Baffin's  Bay.  In  1872 
the  quantity  of  jute  imported  direct  into  Dundee  was  1,828,614  cwt.,  and  the 
bulk  of  the  whale-oil  is  required  by  the  jute  manufacturers  of  Dundee  and  its 
neighborhood. 

"  Thus  the  i^ort  of  Dundee  has  now  become  the  center  of  the  whale-fishing 
trade,  and  cargoes  of  oil  from  the  Arctic  Eegions  may  be  seen  discharging  along- 
side cargoes  of  jute  from  Calcutta,  both  being  essential  to  the  prosperity  of  this 
industry.  The  Dundee  Chamber  of  Commerce  has  represented  that  an  Arctic 
expedition  is  desirable,  in  order  that  new  haunts  of  oil-bearing,  animals  may  be 
explored ;  and  if  an  Arctic  expedition  will  benefit  the  jute  manufacturers  of  Scot- 
land, it  is  equally  important  to  thousands  of  industrious  Bengal  Ryots,  to  whom 
jute  cultivation  gives  employment  and  the  means  of  subsistence." 


report  of  united  states  consul  matthew  mcdougall,  dundee,  scotland, 
on  the  jute  manufacture  at  dundee. 

"Department  of  State, 

"  Washington,  January  15,  1878. 
"  Sir  :   Adverting  to  former  correspondence  upon  the  subject,  I  have  the 
honor  to  inclose  herewith,  for  the  information  of  Professor  Nourse,  of  the  iN^aval 
Observatory,  a  copy  of  a  dispatch  of  the  16th  of  November  last,  from  the  Con 


620      U.  S.  Consul  McDougaWs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 

sill  at  Dundee,  in  relatiou  to  the  whale  lisheiy  and  jute  manufactory  carried  on 
at  that  place. 

"  I  have  the  honor  to  be,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

"WM.  M.  EVAKTS. 
"The  Hon.  K.  W.  Thompson, 

"  Secretary  of  the  Navy.'''' 


Mr.  McDougall  to  Mr.  Seivard,  November  10,  1877. 

fluflosure  1  in  No.  1:^7. l 

Consulate  of  the  United  States  of  America, 

Dundee,  November  16,  1877. 
Sm :  Referring  to  your  dispatch  ISTo.  72,  dated  the  2d  ultimo,  and  to  my 
acknowledgment  of  receipt  of  same  per  dispatch  Xo.  136,  dated  the  16th  of  that 
month,  I  have  now  the  honor  to  send  you  "  statistics  of  the  whale  fishery  and  of 
the  jute  manufactory  carried  on  at  the  port  of  Dundee  for  the  years  1865  to  1875," 
which  are  supplemented  by  figiu-es  relating  to  the  whale  fishery  for  the  years 
1876  and  1877  and  to  the  jute  trade  for  certain  years  previous  to  1865  and  for  the 
years  1876  and  1877.  I  also  give  you  various  other  tables  connected  with  the 
development  of  these  industries,  and  such  information  bearing  on  these  subjects 
as  I  consider  may  be  useful. 

WHALE-FISHING  INDUSTRY. 

Having  entered  very  fully  into  this  subject  in  my  annual  report  forwarded 
to  your  Department  for  this  year,  ending  30th  September,  I  beg  to  state  that  the 
quoted  matter  under  this  heading  is  taken  from  that  document. 

"  The  success  attending  the  whaling-fleet  belonging  to  this  port  was  consid- 
erably greater  in  1876  than  in  1875.  All  the  vessels,  twelve  in  number,  i)rosecuted 
both  seal  and  whale  fishing  in  1876.  The  only  change  in  the  course  usually  fol- 
lowed was  by  one  vessel,  which  went  to  Labrador  instead  of  Greenland,  with  the 
other  ships.  The  total  catch  at  the  seal-fishing  was  in  1876  57,776  seals,  yield- 
ing 625  tons  of  oil.  Seal-oil  last  year  was  valued  at  £32  per  ton,  and  the  aver- 
age price  for  skins  was  Gs.  Taking  the  625  tons  of  oil  at  £32  gives  £20,000,  and 
57,776  skins  at  C>s.  each  produces  the  sum  of  £17,332  16s.;  so  that  the  value  of 
the  seal-fishing  in  1876  was  £37,332  16.s'.  Only  one  vessel  returned  clean  from 
the  seal-fishing. 

The  total   catch  at  the  whale-lishing  was  in   1S76  64  whales,  yielding  824 


U.  S.  Consul  McDougaWs  lieport  on.  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.      62 1 

tons  oil  and  45  tons  of  bono.  The  selling-  price  of  whale-oil  in  1S7G  was  £35 
per  ton;  and  altliongli  as  high  as  £1,200  per  ton  was  got  for  bone,  £800 
was  the  average  price.  The  824  tons  of  oil  i)rodiiced  £28,840  and  the  45  tons  of 
bone  £30,000;  total  for  the  whale-fishing,  £04,840;  total  for  the  seal-fishing, 
£37,332  10s.;  total  for  both  fishings,  £102,172  lO.v.  Of  course  from  this  sum  falls 
to  be  deducted  the  expenses  of  the  fleet,  which  must  necessarily  be  very  heavy. 

In  1875  the  value  of  the  seal-fishing  was  computed  at  £27,026  7s.  GJ.  and  the 
whale-fishing  at  £50,325;  total  for  both  fishings,  £77,351  7s.  M.  This  shows  an 
increase  in  favor  of  1870  in  the  seal-fishing  of  £10,306  8s.  6^7.  and  in  the  whale- 
fishing  of  £14,515 ;  total  increase  in  both  fishings  for  187(),  £24,821  8s.  6f?." 

"This  year  two  vessels  went  to  the  seal-fishing  in  Labrador  compared  with 
one  in  1876 ;  and  they  were  so  successful,  that  the  Dundee  Seal  and  Whale  Fishing 
Company  have  resolved  to  form  a  branch  establishment  at  Newfoundland,  and 
next  spring  two  of  their  largest  and  most  powerful  screw -steamers,  instead  of 
going  to  Greenland,  will  be  dispatched  to  the  Newfoundland  seal-fishing.  The 
company  has  acquired  a  piece  of  ground,  on  which  they  are  erecting  the  neces- 
sary buildings  for  carrying  on  the  work  connected  with  the  fishing,  including 
boiling-house,  &c.  There  being  no  docks  for  the  accommodation  of  the  vessels, 
the  company  is  constructing  a  wharf  in  close  proximity  to  its  premises,  so  that 
the  steamers  will  be  enabled  to  discharge  their  catches  almost  at  the  doors  of  the 
establishment.  With  the  two  steamers  sent  out  by  another  company  here  (those 
which  went  this  year)  this  will  now  make  four  Dundee  vessels  that  will  prosecute 
the  Newfoundland  seal- fishing  next  spring.  The  effect  of  this  change  will  of 
course  be  to  give  the  remainder  of  the  Dundee  vessels  going  to  Greenland  a  bet- 
ter chance  of  success,  and  it  is  hoped  the  results  will  prove  satisfactory  to  all 
concerned. 

"  As  all  the  vessels  of  the  Dundee  whale  fleet  have  now  arrived  from  the  New- 
foundland and  Greenland  seal  and  whale  fisheries  for  the  year,  I  am  able  to  give 
you  the  number  of  seals  and  whales  caught  and  other  particulars.  The  whole  of  the 
vessels  (now  thirteen  in  number)  went  both  to  the  seal  and  whale  fishing  this  year, 
two  going  to  Newfoundland  instead  of  to  Greenland  with  the  other  ships.  The 
number  of  seals  caught  in  Newfoundland  (Labrador)  this  year  was  for  two  vessels 
46,600  seals,  yielding  750  tons  oil ;  last  year  one,  vessel,  4,000  seals,  yielding  47 
tons  oil ;  increase  in  1877,  42,600  seals,  703  tons  oil. 

"The  number  of  seals  caught  in  Greenland  this  year  was  for  eleven  vessels, 
29,400  seals,  yielding  342  tons  oil ;  last  year,  for  eleven  vessels,  53,776  seals,  yield- 
ing 578  tons  oil ;  decrease  in  1877,  24,376  seals,  236  tons  oil. 


622      U.  S.  Consul  McBougaWs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  in  Dundee. 

''  The  number  of  seals  caught  in  Newfoundland  (Labrador),  as  above,  in  1877, 
46,600  seals  yielding  750  tons  oil;  in  Greenland,  29,400  seals,  yielding  342  tons 
oil ;  total,  76,000  seals,  1,092  tons  oil.  Total  in  1876,  57,770  seals,  625  tons  oil. 
Increase  in  1877,  18,224  seals,  467  tons  oil. 

"At  present  seal-oil  is  valued  at  £32  per  ton,  while  the  skins  average  5s,  each. 
Calculating  the  1,092  tons  of  oil  got  this  year  at  £32  gives  £34,944,  and  76,000 
skins  at  5s.  each  yield  £19,000;  so  that  the  total  value  of  the  seal-fishing  this 
year  is  £53,944.  Last  year  the  total  value  of  the  catch  at  the  seal-fishing  was 
estimated  at  £37,332  Ws.    Increase  in  1877,  £16,611  4s. 

"Unfortunately  five  of  the  eleven  vessels  that  went  to  the  Greenland  seal- 
fishing  this  year  returned  clean.  But  at  the  whale-fishing  there  was  no  such 
unlucky  experience.  The  thirteen  vessels  brought  from  the  Greenland  whale-fishing 
this  year  81  black  whales,  yielding  835  tons  oil  and  42^  tons  of  bone,  and  935 
white  whales,  yielding  12b  tons  oil;  total,  1,016  whales,  yielding  955  tons  oil  and 
42^  tons  of  bone. 

"In  1876  the  catch  was  64  black  whales,  yielding  824  tons  oil  and  45  tons  of 
bone.  Increase  in  1877,  17  black  whales,  935  white  whales,  and  131  tons  oil.  De- 
crease in  bone  in  1877,  2J  tons. 

"At  present  the  selling  price  of  whale  oil  is  £35  per  ton,  and  bone  may  be 
taken  at  the  price  £1,400  per  ton.  The  value  of  955  tons  oil  at  the  price  given 
woidd  be  £33,425,  and  the  42i  tons  of  bone  would  give  £59,500.  Total  value  of 
the  whale-fishing  for  1877,  £92,925.  The  total  value  of  the  whale-fishing  for  1876 
was  £64,840,  making  an  increase  in  1877  of  £28,085. 

"Total  value  of  the  seal-fishing  in  1877,  £53,944;  total  value  of  the  whale 
fishing  in  1877,  £92,925;  total  for  both  fishings  1877,  £146,869  (of  which  sum 
the  expense  of  the  fleet  has  to  be  deducted).  Total  for  both  fishings  in  1876, 
£102,172  16s.     Increase  on  both  fishings  in  1877,  £44,696  4s. 

"This  gratifying  result,  it  will  be  seen,  is  greatly  due  to  the  remarkable  suc- 
cess of  the  two  vessels  wliich  went  to  the  Newfoundland  (Labrador)  seal  fishing 
this  year. 

"The  following  is  a  very  complete  statement,  showing  the  produce  of  British 
vessels  from  1865  to  1876,  inclusive,  at  the  Davis  Straits  and  Greenland  seal  and 
whale  fishing.  I  also  include  the  number  of  seals  and  whales  caught  this  year  at 
Greenland  and  Labrador  by  the  Dundee  vessels." 


U.  S.  Consul  McDougaWs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.      623 


Statement. 


1 

Year.                    Ports. 

Vessels. 

Seals. 

Whales. 

Seal- 
oil. 

Wli  ale- 
oil. 

Whale- 
bone. 

1865    Peterhead 

10  sailers 

3  steamers 

7  steamers   

1  sailer 

17,291 
10,248 
64, 041 

5 

6 

50 

Tom. 
195 
113 
734 

Tons. 
71 

84 
547 

Cwts. 
""'650' 

....do 

Dundee 

Kirkcaldv 

Hull 

....  do 

1  sailer 

1  steamer     

5 


" "   156' 

•  40 

(iO 

Frazerbui'sch 

2  sailers 

12,219 

Aberdeen 

1  sailer 

1866    Peterhead 

9  sailers 

3  steanifTS 

11  steamers 

1  steamer , 

16, 188 
16,  632 

48, 418 

31 

9 

30 

187 
210 
674 

299 
100 
333 

""""373" 

....do 

Dundee  — 

Hull 

....  do 

1  sailer 

2 

9" 

16 
4 
2 
2 

62' 

'"'ibo' 

287 
619 

"""124 

16 

40 

Frazerburgh 

Aberdeen 

2  sailers 

4,571 

1  sailer 

100 
151 

29 
22 
26 

120 

26' 

40 

1867    Peterhead 

13, 208 
21, 368 
53, 822 

....do 

4  steamers 

12  steamers 

1  steamer  

Dundee 

Hull 

Frazerburach 

2  sailers 

8,217 

Aberdeen 

1  sailer 

1868    Dundee 

do 

13  steamers 

1  sailer 

10,  458 

107 
1 

*16 
4 

6' 

9' 

t8 
4 

199 

"**i65 

228 
32 

3" 

458 
125 
256 

856 

7 

262 

23 

944 

5 

90 

17 

Pete  rhead 

8  sailers 

13, 774 

18, 038 
3,983 

....do 

4  steamers 

2  sailers 

Aberdeen  

Hull 

1  sailer 

80 

108 

I  steamer ., 

II  steamers 

9  sailers .. . 

230 

44, 424 

8,868 

16, 021 

1869    Dundee 

118 

118 
25 

128 

49 
25 

Peterhead 

....do 

4  steamers 

1  sailer  ...... 

Aberdeen   . 

Hull  

1  steamer 

1 
61 

18 

'""862" 
132 

487 

5 
734 
125 

98 

1,163 

105 

80 

969 

131 

293 

1,303 

5 

871 

144 

5 

91 

1,  313 

155 

76 

1,062 

132 

292 

1,344 

1870    Dundee 

10  steamers 

7  sailers 

87, 768 

8,373 

32, 087 

Peterhead 

....do 

Aberdeen 

4  steamers 

1  sailer 

1871     Dundee 

10  steamers 

6  sailers 

64, 497 
17, 047 
34, 837 
40.  .391 

1,851 

8,442 
25, 480 

4,131 
37, 827 

6,784 
44,  087 

8, 113 

615 

44, 445 

27, 198 

133 
11 

8 

105 

9 

24 

158 

2" 

12 

190 

""'79' 

t6 

13 

64 

§13 

5 

1181 

652 
194 
481 
410 

25 
129 
2G2 

46 
754 

73 
575 
196 
2 
418 
355 

'"""625' 

75 

5 

1,092 

Peterhead    . 

....do 

5  steamers 

11  steamers 

5  sailers 

1872    Dundee 

Peterhead 

....  do 

6  steamers 

11  steamers 

1  sailer 

1873    Dundee 

do     .           

Peterhead 

7  steamers 

3  sailers 

16 

110 

1,419 

95 
148 
706 
113 
156 
824 
222 

69 
955 

10 

115 

1, 436 

91 
153 
729 

77 
164 
900 
138 

94 
850 

....do 

1874    Dundee 

11  steamers 

5  steamers 

3  sailers 

Peterhead 

do 

1875    Dundee 

12  steamers 

6  steamers 

2  sailers 

Peterhead 

....do 

1876    Dundee 

Peterhead 

12  steamers 

5  steamers 

3  sailers 

13  steamers 

57, 776 

4,180 

371 

76, 000 

....do 

1877    Dundee  (Greenland   and 
Newfoundland ) . 

'  And  645  white. 


+  And  859  white.         t  And  360  white.         $  And  700  white. 


IIADd935wlJte. 


624     U.  S.  Consul  WIcDougalVs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 

"  It  will  be  observed  fiom  the  above  statement  that  the  whole  of  the  British 
vessels  engaged  ia  the  Davis  Straits  and  Greenland  seal  and  whale  fisheries  now 
belong  to  this  Consular  district,  and  of  these  the  largest  number  belong  to  Dun- 
dee, and  are  all  steamers ;  indeed,  sailing-vessels  are  quite  the  exception,  Peter- 
head being  the  only  port  that  has  two  or  three  old  sailing-shij)s  which  go  to 
Greenland,  and  it  is  predicted  that  in  the  course  of  a  year  or  two  these  will  either 
be  turned  into  screw-steamers  or  laid  aside  for  steam-vessels," 

2.   JUTE   TRADE. 

"  The  staple  industry  of  Dundee  and  neighborhood  is  the  manufacture  of  jute 
fabrics,  chiefly  of  a  coarse  kind,  such  as  double  wrap-bagging,  sacking,  burlaps, 
&c.  The  bulk  of  the  jute  used  here  is  turned  into  this  class  of  goods,  or  yarns 
suitable  to  make  the  same  (these  yarns  being  mainly  exported  to  the  European 
Continental  factories,  to  be  there  woven  into  cloth),  and  the  balance  into  a  great 
variety  of  other  stuffs  of  a  finer  description,  called  duck-i^adding,  canvas,  carpets, 
hearth-rugs,  matting,  «S:c. 

"The  introduction  of  jute  into  Dundee  with  the  view  to  its  manufacture  was 
in  1823  or  early  in  1824 ;  but  the  first  experiments  made  with  it  were  not  satis- 
factory. Some  years  elajDsed  before  any  further  attempts  were  tried  to  manijm- 
late  the  fiber.  About  the  beginning  of  1832  repeated  efforts  were  made  to  over- 
come the  difiiculties  in  spinning  jute  by  machinery,  and  by  perseverance,  skill, 
and  improved  machinery  these  obstacles  were  successfully  surmounted,  and  now 
jute  manufacturing  has  risen  to  be  the  principal  business  in  this  town,  and  has 
also  been  a  soui-ce  of  great  wealth  to  this  comnmnity. 

"  The  first  noticeable  impetus  given  to  the  jute  trade  was  caused  by  the 
Russian  war  in  1854.  The  belligerents  on  both  sides  consumed  vast  quantities 
of  coarse  linens.  This,  together  with  the  supply  of  flax  from  that  country  being 
cut  oft",  created  a  strong  demand  for  jute  material  to  take  the  place  of  that  for- 
merly made  from  flax.  The  jute  trade  still  retains  in  a  great  measure  the  ad- 
vantage it  gained  at  this  time,  jute  fabrics,  by  their  cheapness  and  strength, 
having  i)ermanently  supplanted  various  kinds  of  flax-cloth,  which  it  was  only 
considered  they  would  substitute  in  the  emergency.  The  profits  then  realized 
stimulated  enterj)rise  very  much,  and  led  to  the  erection  of  new  works  in  Dundee 
for  spinning  and  weaving  jute  exclusively  by  power,  and  to  substantial  additions 
to  those  works  already  in  existence. 

"  Tlie  following  tables  show  how  many  jute  factories  there  were  in  the  United 
Kingdom  in  1862,  with  the  number  of  spindles,  power-looms,  amount  of  moving- 


U.  S  Consul  McBouguWs  Re])ort  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.      625 


power,  and  number  of  persons  emx)loyed.     It  will  be  observed  that  most  of  these 
are  in  Dundee  and  district : 

Jiite  Factories  in  18G2  in  the  under-noted  countries. 


Country. 

County. 

Cm 
O 

125 

a; 
02 

a 

o 
u 

Amount  of  mov- 
ing power. 

■l-s 

Steam. 

W.ater. 

Euglaud . . . 
Total 

Dorset 

1 

1 
1 
1 

320 

60 

240 

12 

20 
18 
12 

33 
31 

27 
16 

Lancaster  . .   . 

Middlesex 

Surrey 

4 

620 

&Z 

107 

Scotland... 
Total 

Forfar  (Dundee  and  district) - 

Lanark 

Renfrew 

24 

2 
1 

28, 094 
1,000 
1,444 

406 

48 
100 

1,494 

153 

90 

20 

40' 

4,828 
216 
374 

27 

30, 538 

554 

1,737 

60 

5,418 

Ireland 

Total 

Antrim 

3 
2 

1,824 

194 

55 

385 

57 

Down 

5 

1,824 

249 

442 

Summary. 
England 

4 

27 
5 

620 

30,538 

1,824 

'""554" 

62 

1,737 

249 

60' 

107 

5,  418 

442 

Scotland 

Ireland 

Total 

3G 

32, 982 

554 

2,048 

60 

5,967 

The  majority  of  the  workers  in  jute  factories  are  females,  some  boys;  and  a 
few  men  to  act  as  overseers,  managers,  and  mechaidcs  are  also  employed. 

The  remarkable  progress  the  trade  made  from  1838  to  1860  is  exhibited  by 
the  following  note  of  the  imports  of  jute  in  three  years  into  Dundee.     It  will  be 
noticed  that  in  1855,  the  year  after  the  outbreak  of  the  Russian  war,  the  increase 
is  extraordinary,  and  that  the  subsequent  years  show  also  a  steady  increase. 
S.  Ex.  27 40 


626      U.  S.  Consul  3IcDongalVs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 

Jute  imported  into  Dundee. 


Years.             By  sea. 

By  rail. 

Total. 

1838 

Tons. 

1, 136 

2,  411 

2,745 

2,661 

2,740 

4,858 

5,515 

8,313 

9,230 

6, 966 

8,885 

7,946 

6,335 

7,386 

9,874 

8,165 

6,224 

12, 333 

16, 948 

8,158 

•  13,828 

21, 683 

22, 829 

Tons. 

Tows. 

1839 

1840 

1841 

1842 

1843 

1844 

1845 

1846  ...     



1847 

1848 

20 

4,196 

7,745 

9, 542 

7,109 

7,235 

10,  366 

13,561 

14, 083 

16, 184 

16, 258 

16,722 

14, 136 

8,905 
12, 142 
14, 080 
16, 928 
16,983 
15, 400 
16, 590 
25, 894 
31,031 
24,342 
30, 08(5 
38,405 
36,965 

1849 

1850 

1851 

1852 

1853 

1854 

1855 

1856 

1857 

1858 

1859 

1860 

"The  enormous  consumption  of  coarse  goods  by  botli  armies  in  the  American 
war,  1861-'65,  gave  the  next  market  stimuhis  to  the  jute  trade.  The  prices  ob- 
tained during  this  war  for  jute  goods  were  unprecedented  in  the  history  of  tlie  trade, 
and  they  have  never  since  been  so  high,  and  those  engaged  in  the  trade  during 
this  period  were  thus  enabled  to  amass  handsome  fortunes.  The  prosperity  gave 
the  trade  a  firm  footing  in  Dundee,  and  induced  spinners  and  manufacturers  to 
buikl  more  new  works  and  to  go  on  making  additions  to  the  old  ones.  I  cannot 
give  you  the  exact  mimber  of  jute  factories,  «&c.,  in  operation  at  the  end  of  tiie 
American  war,  but  the  next  statement  proves  that  there  must  have  been  a  most 
favorable  increase  of  jute  machinery  in  these  few  years,  when  it  is  understood 
that  the  greater  proportion  of  the  total  increase  here  shown  refers  to  the  jute 
trade,  and  almost  solely  in  this  locality." 


U,  S.  Consul  McDoiigalVs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.     627 
Return  ofJiax,JHte,  and  hemp  factories  in  Scotland,  September,  18G7. 


Districts. 

5tH 
O 

to 

^  o 

12;  J 

Cm 

u  3 
g  CO 

;2i 

«*H    00 

II 

a 

a;  ^ 

Forfarshire  (Dmideo  and  district) 

108 

51 

17 

5 

1 

7,715 
2, 691 

847 

74 

785 

278, 564 

74, 65H 

21,064 

2,818 

16, 814 

11, 329 

5,038 
1,348 

46, 571 
11,579 

3,740 
120 

2, 175 

Fifeshire 

Perthshire 

Kinciirdineshire 

Aberdeen 

428 

Total 

Other  })arts  of  Scotland 

182 
15 

12, 112 

2,840 

:»3, 918 
93,661 

1»,  143 
1,774 

()4, 185 
13,  010 

Grand  total 

197 
192 

14, 952 

487, 579 
312, 239 

19, 917 

8, 520 

77, 195 
39, 562 

Grand  total  in  1862 

Increase  

5 

175, 340 

11,397 

37, 633 

"After  the  American  war  terminated  the  trade  returned  more  to  its  normal 
condition,  but  still  kept  on  flourishing  to  1873  on  account  of  general  trade  through- 
out the  world  being  vigorous.  So  rapid  had  been  the  advancement  of  the  trade 
in  the  years  1862  to  1873,  that  in  this  last  year  it  was  estimated  there  were  upward 
of  100  jute  factories  in  Dundee  and  immediate  vicinity,  emijloying  from  60,000  to 
65,000  hands.  I  here  give  a  table  of  the  amount  of  the  horse-power  in  the  flax, 
hemp,  and  jute  mills  and  factories  in  Dundee  alone  in  the  years  stated.  The  jute- 
works  may  be  credited  with  a  large  share  of  the  increase  shown  from  the  years 
1860  to  1874 : 

Horse-power  of  mills  and  factories  in  Dundee. 

Horse- 
power. 

In  1808 : 63 

In  1820 Ill 

In  1832 „. 805 

In  1860 4,782 

In  1867 7,032 

In  1874 10,000 

"  Up  to  1873  most  of  the  jute  consumed  in  the  United  Kingdom  was  in  and 
around  Dundee,  but  the  manufacture  had  now  begun  to  extend  in  different  places 
in  this  country,  on  the  Continent  of  Europe,  and  more  especially  in  Calcutta  and 
other  parts  of  India.  This  competition  (particularly  that  of  Calcutta),  combined 
with  the  financial  panic  in  the  United  States  in  the  autumn  of  1873,  gave  the 
trade  a  severe  check,  and  it  has  continued  very  depressed  ever  since,  with  prices 


628      U.  S  Consul  McBougalVs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 

at  the  lowest  point,  and  in  the  principal  portion  of  the  trade  unquestionably 
umciminerative. 

"It  is  affirmed  that  had  it  not  been  for  the  large  sums  accumulated  by  the 
manufacturers  in  the  ten  years  of  good  trade  previous  to  1873,  great  commercial 
disaster  must  have  been  the  inevitable  consequence  of  the  very  unprofitable  state 
of  the  trade  here  during  the  last  three  or  four  years. 

"Among  those  manufacturers  who  entered  into  the  trade  in  1873-'74,  when 
trade  was  beginning  to  decline,  and  who  consequently  did  not  reap  any  of  the 
good  profits  yielded  in  former  years,  there  have  been  many  failures.  I  have 
again  to  quote  from  my  annual  report  for  this  year : 

"  So  bad  has  the  trade  been  considered,  that  many  manufacturers  have  found 
it  more  for  their  interests  to  close  their  works  entirely  than  to  go  on  making  goods 
at  an  absolute  loss. 

"  The  chief  local  newspaper  says  there  are  at  present  standing  idle  in  Bun- 
dee  and  district  12  mills  and  factories  employing  3,400  hands,  7  mills  employing 
1,770  hands,  4  factories  employing  G70  hands.  Total,  23  mills  and  factories  and 
5,840  hands. 

"  Seven  of  these  works  have  been  closed  through  the  suspension  of  the  firms, 
but  the  majority  have  been  stopped  voluntarily,  by  the  owners  wishing  to  with- 
draw from  losing  concerns  and  others  from  the  want  of  orders  for  the  special  class 
of  goods  manufactured  by  them.  A  number  of  these  works  ceased  working  six 
months  ago ;  some  as  far  back  as  the  end  of  1876.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the  works 
still  in  operation  are  running  with  fewer  hands  than  at  this  time  last  year ;  one 
firm  alone  having  600  less." 

"  So  that  the  number  of  mills  and  factories  in  Dundee  and  district  is  now 
approximated  at  from  70  to  80,  employing  from  50,000  to  60,000  hands  making  jute 
goods. 

"Without  doubt  the  great  production  of  jute  fabrics  in  Calcutta  for  the  last 
two  or  three  years  has  been  the  main  cause  of  the  extreme  depression  of  the  trade 
here.  At  any  rate,  Calcutta  is  now  the  most  powerful  competitor  with  Dundee,  as 
three  or  four  of  the  largest  jute- works  in  other  parts  of  the  United  Kingdom  have 
recently  stopped  working,  and  those  in  other  towns  throughout  the  country  are 
working  with  less  hands,  thus  reducing  the  competition  in  this  country  with  Dun- 
dee to  a  minimum. 

"  Calcutta  is  represented  as  having  20  mills,  4,786  looms;  80  per  cent,  of  the 
spindles  and  looms  are  on  double-warp  bagging  and  sacking  and  20  i)er  cent,  on 
Hessian  or  burlap  cloth.     These  figures  show  that  Calcutta  is  a  formidable  rival 


U.  S.  Consul  McDougaWs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.      629 

to  Dundee  in  the  manufacture  of  the  coarse  stuffs  on  the  making  of  which  this 
town  has  always  relied.  An  immense  quantity  of  this  quality  of  cloth  is  produced 
in  this  locality,  three-fil'ths  of  tlie  mills  and  factories  having  machinery  only 
adapted  for  spinning  the  yarns  for  and  weaving  this  cloth." 

The  Calcutta  manufacturers  are  in  the  mean  time  underselling  Dundee  in  the 
Australian,  Egyptian,  and  Californian  markets.  Of  the  last-named  place,  by  far 
the  most  important  of  the  three,  Dundee  once  had  the  monopoly  of  the  business. 
The  total  value  of  the  jute-bags  exported  there,  declared  to  at  this  consulate,  was, 
for  the  four  quarters  of  the  years  ending  30th  September,  1875, 1876,  and  1877,  as 
follows : 


Quarter 

ending — 

Total  for  the 
year. 

December  31. 

March  31. 

June  30. 

September  30. 

1875 

$335,440  19 
23, 053  24 

1137,  960  78 
94,610  65 

$3.  686  01 
267, 886  44 

$11,586  67 
39, 008  90 

$488,  673  65 
424,  C59  23 

1876 

lu crease. . 

264, 200  43 

27, 422  23 

Decrease 

1876 

1877 

312, 386  95 

43,350  13 

64, 114  42 

23, 053  24 
21,456  71 

94, 610  65 
6, 229  23 

267, 883  44 
2, 835  33 

39,  008  90 
1,  350  99 

424,559  23 
31, 872  26 

Increase 

Decrease 

Decrease  in  1876 

Total  decrease  in 

1,593  53 

83,381  42 

265,051  11 

37,657  91 

392, 686  97 
64, 114  42 

the  two  years 

1876  and  1877.. 

456,801  39 

"  This  demonstrates  that  at  the  moment  Dundee  has  entirely  lost  control  of 
this  splendid  outlet  for  its  goods.  Of  course  some  allowance  for  this  almost  incred- 
ible decrease  may  be  attributed  to  the  encouragement  the  San  Francisco  sack- 
sewers  have  in  the  difference  of  10  per  cent,  in  the  tariff  in  favor  of  burlaps,  which 
they  make  into  bags  on  the  spot.  But  even  in  this  way  Dundee  is  not  compen- 
sated for  the  serious  loss  (as  shown  by  this  statement)  it  has  sustained,  as  the  bag- 
makers  get  large  parcels  of  the  cloth  they  use  from  Calcutta,  which  soui-ce,  it  is 
beyond  question,  must  now  be  supplying  California,  Oregon,  and  the  Western 
States  with  millions  of  bags  and  thousands  of  pieces  of  cloth  yearly  which  for- 
merly came  from  this  quarter." 

To  give  an  idea  of  the  connection  Dundee  has  with  the  United  States  in  the 
jute  trade,  I  submit  an  "  extract  of  my  detailed  statement  of  exports  from  this 
Consular  district  to  the  United  States  for  the  four  quarters  of  the  year  ending 


G30      U.  S  Consul  3IcDougaIVs  JReport  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 

30th  September,  1877,"  which  shows  a  marked  decrease  during  that  period.  1 
liave  also  added  the  decrease  for  187G,  which  makes  an  enormous  falling-off  in 
just  two  years.  I  may  mention  that  four-fifths  of  the  total  valuation  is  for  jute 
goods  of  every  sort,  but  generally  of  a  coarse  quality. 

Abstract. 


Quarter  ending — 

Total  for  the 
year. 

December  31. 

March  31. 

June  30.       |  September  30. 

Total  at  Dundee  for 
1877 

^1,037,811  87 
49, 169  40 

|1, 175, 239  41 
30, 506  93 

81,154,560  08   $1,302,977  08 
38, 134  89           37, 182  46 

$4,670,594  44 
154,993  68 

Total  at  Aberdeen 
for  1877 

Total  from  district 
for  1877 

Total  from  district 
for  1876 

1,083,981  27 
1,101,294  35 

1,205,746  34 
1,459,987  48 

1,192,700  97 
1, 782, 689  49 

1,  340, 159  54 
1, 129, 172  38 

4,825,588  12 
5,  473, 143  70 

Increase  

210,987  16 

647,555  58 
526,769  67 

Decrease 

14, 313  08 

2.^)4.241   14 

589,988  52 

Decrease  in  187 

6 '. 

Total  decrease  in  the  two  vears  1876  and  1877 

1, 174, 325  25 

"  I  have  also,  at  this  point,  to  note  the  fact  that  a  large  proportion  of  the 
total  value  of  these  exports  is  for  goods  (burlaps  principally)  sent  to  the  United 
States  on  consignment  instead  of  on  actual  sale.  This  has  come  about  by  the 
American  firms  who  are  represented  here  by  their  own  houses  or  agents  declining 
to  pur(;hase.  ]Manufacturers  have  thereby  been  compelled  to  ship  their  merchan- 
dise themselves  to  keep  their  establishments  moving  and  from  acquiring  stock. 
Business  being  thus  forced  has  had  a  disastrous  effect  on  prices  in  the  United 
States,  and  the  account  sales  have  ad\ised  in  these  cases  a  Avide  discrepancy 
between  the  i)rices  realii:ed  and  the  actual  cost  thereof." 

By  again  turning  to  the  importation  of  jute  into  Dundee  from  18G1  to  1877 
(former  statement  left  off  at  18C0)  a  glance  at  the  undernoted  statement  will  show 
Ijow  the  trade  has  develo])ed  in  these  years. 


\ 


U.  S  Consul  McBougaWs  Beport  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.     631 


Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee. 


18G1 

1862 

1863 

1864 

1865 

1886 

1887 

1888 

1869 

1870  

1871 

1872 

1873 

1874 

1875 

1876 

1877  (from  1st  January  to  31st  October,  1877) 


Fh 


Tom. 
468 
402 

6,997 
12, 173 
11,425 

4,507 
10, 156 

5,437 
27, 844 
30, 537 
66, 872 
91,276 
102, 133 
81, 746 
92, 844 
95, 715 
72, 120 


fees 


Tons. 
17,  456 
19, 423 
25, 276 
23, 371 
43, 912 
28, 784 
36, 546 

35,  069 

36,  347 
43,  341 
27, 736 
32,  390 
37, 790 
33, 190 
20, 067 
21, 824 
15, 921 


L  i 

o  eS 

•^5 

hJZ- 

^•—^  X 

>:% 

'^    "  ^ 

''    O    ^ 

« 

r2  c  o 

■f- 

C3  Ph  tC 

M 

H 

Tons. 

Tons. 

17, 792 

35, 716 

18,  452 

38, 277 

14,710 

46, 983 

20, 860 

56, 404 

16, 365 

71, 702 

18,  888 

52, 179 

16,970 

63, 672 

17, 968 

58, 474 

18, 188 

82, 379 

7,862 

81,740 

8, 236 

102,  844 

3, 524 

127, 190 

3, 227 

143, 150 

2, 439 

117, 375 

1,019 

113,930 

1,032 

118, 571 

114 

88.  155 

This  statement  shows  that  the  jute  imported  into  Dundee  reached  the  maxi- 
mum in  1873.  It  also  shows  that  the  quantity  brought  direct  from  Calcutta  is 
considerably  under  the  amount  brought  in  1873,  in  the  years  1874, 1875,  and  187G. 

The  total  arrivals  of  vessels  from  Calcutta  at  Dundee  from  the  1st  January 
to  1st  October,  of  this  year  (1877),  were  44  ships,  bringing  G0,171  tons  jute,  equal 
to  401,802  bales.  The  arrivals  during  the  same  period  in  1876  were  57  ships,  bring- 
ing 78,921  tons  jute,  equal  to  527,040  bales,  exhibiting  a  falling  off  on  the  nine 
months'  arrivals  of  13  ships,  bringing  18,750  tons  jute,  equal  to  125,244  bales. 
Nor  is  there  any  prospect  of  the  decrease  being  made  up  during  the  three  mouths 
of  the  year  still  to  run.  From  latest  advices,  I  find  that  there  are  at  sea  bound  to 
Dundee  3  jute  vessels  of  4,311  tons,  and  loading  or  chartered  at  Calcutta  23  of 
31,324  tons.  The  whole  of  the  vessels  at  sea  are  likely  to  arrive  before  December 
31.  Of  the  ships  chartered  or  loading,  3  steamships  of  3,847  register  tons  and 
5,995  tons  gross,  will  also  in  all  probability  arrive  before  the  close  of  the  year. 
The  total  probable  arrivals  direct  from  Calcutta  for  1877  may,  therefore,  be  set 
down  at  50  ships  of  68,329  tons  register. 

Taking  the  vessels  arrived,  sailed,  and  chartered,  and  comi^aiing  them  with 
last  year,  they  stand  thus :  1876, 90  ships  of  126,139  tons ;  1877,  70  ships  of  95,806 


632      U.  S.  Consul  McDougalVs  Beport  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 


tons ;  decrease,  20  ships  of  30,333  tous.    This  not  only  speaks  of  a  bad  current 
year,  but  i)romises  very  poorly  for  1878. 

It  is  impossible  to  get  the  total  yards  of  jute  manufactures  or  the  number  of 
jute  bags  made  that  are  sent  from  Dundee,  the  returns  of  the  Harbor  Board  and 
Railway  companies  being  so  kept  that  they  only  show  the  total  of  all  manufac- 
tures, including  linen  and  jute  manufactures  of  every  kind,  and  yarns,  bags,  &c. 
But  the  extent  and  importance  of  the  trade  can  be  judged  from  the  following- 
tables,  compiled  by  me  fi'om  the  British  Board  of  Trade  returns  and  other  official 
statements.  The  year  1854  is  the  first  year  jute  is  given  as  an  article  of  import 
into  the  United  Kingdom  in  the  above-mentioned  returns.  Before  that  time  it 
was  included  among  "  Hemp  and  other  like  substances."  The  quantity  of  jute 
exported  was  not  given  till  18G1.  For  comparison,  I  give  the  quantity  of  jute 
im])orted  into  Dundee,  the  amounts  being  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  tables, 
but  only  changed  into  hundredweights  to  suit  these  Tables. 


1854. 

1855. 

1856. 

Quantity. 

S??11.  Q-°t%- 

Computed 
real  value. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
real  value. 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  tbo  jute  im- 
ported into  "the  United  Kingdom 

Total  quantity  of  j  ute  iraportedinto  Dun- 
dee, consumed  there  and  in  the  district . 

Balance  left  for  consumption  elsewhere 

Cwts. 
481, 733 
331,  800 

£553,  993 

Cwts. 
539, 297 
517,  880 

£447, 167 

Cwts. 
731,  093 
62 ',  020 

£012,  290 

149,  933 

21, 417 

110,  473 

1857. 

1858. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
real  value. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
real  value. 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  the  juto  imported  into  the  United 

Cwts. 
018,  833 
486,  840 

£046,  356 

Cwts. 
738,  085 
601,  720 

£019,  068 

Total  quantity  of  juto  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 

Balance  left  for  consumption  elsewhere  < 

131, 993 

136, 365 

1859. 

1860. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
real  value. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
real  value. 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  the  juto  imported  into  the  United 
Kingdom   

Cwts. 
1,  001,  288 
768, 100 

£790,  383 

Cwts. 

816,  787        £660,  913 

739,300  1 

Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 
and  in  the,  district 

B.aLince  left  for  consumption  elsewhere  or  export    

293, 188 

77, 487 

1 

U.  8  Consul  McDougalVs  Beport  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.     G33 


1861. 

1862. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
value. 

Quantity. 

Computed 

value. 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  impoited  into  the  United 

Kinjiilom 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 

Cwts. 
904, 092 
80,  971 

£709,  901 
68,  490 

Cwts. 
963, 774 
114,399 

£930, 034 
110,  580 

817, 121 
714,  320 

641, 471 

849, 375 
765,  540 

820,048 

Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  tboro 
and  in  the  district 

Balance  left  for  consumption  in  other  places  of  the  United 

102, 801 

83, 835 

1863. 

1864. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
value. 

Quantity. 

Computed 
value. 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  imported  into  the  United 
Kinj^dom 

Total  quantity  and  valno  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 

Cwts. 
1,223,033 
165,  634 

£1,  525, 996 
206,  352 

Cwts. 
2,  024,  537 
270,  090 

£2, 192, 498 
292,  598 

1,  057, 399 
939,  660 

1,319,644 

1,  754, 447 
1, 128,  080 

1,  899, 900 

Total  quantity  of  jute  impoited  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 

Balance  left  for  consumption  in  other  places  of  the  United 

117,  739 

626,  367 

1865. 


Quantity.     Computed 


Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  imported  into  the  United 
Kinjidom       

Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 
Kiusilom  


Leaving  in  the  United  Kingdom 

Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 
and  in  the  district 


Cwts. 
2, 108,  942 
417,  981 


1,  690, 961 
1, 434,  040 


Balance  left  for  consumption  in  other  places  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  or  for  export  next  year 


250,  921 


£1, 774,  992 
351,801 


1866. 


Quantity. 


Cwts. 
1,  625,  903 
416,  352 


Computed 
value. 


£1, 470,  244 
378, 186 


1, 423, 191 


1,  209,  551 
1,  043,  580 


1,  098,  058 


165,  971 


1867. 


1868. 


Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  imported  into  the  United 
Kingdom     . 

Total  "quantity  and  value  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 
Kingdom 


Quantity.     Comj>uted  j  Q^^^tj^y.     Computed 


Cwts. 
1,  582,  611 
36S,  793 


Leaving  in  the  United  Kingdom 

Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 
and  in  the  district 


Balance  loft  for  consumption  in  other  places  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  or  for  export  next  year 


1, 215,  818 
1, 273, 440 


£1, 414,  321 
327,  057 


Cwts. 
2, 182, 521 
415,206 


1, 087,  264 


1, 707,  255 
1, 169, 480 


*57,  622 


597,  775 


£1, 936, 230 
368, 549 


1,  5G7, 681 


*  Taken  from  previous  year's  stock  left. 


634     U.  S.  Consul  McDougaWs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 


Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  imported  into  the  United 
Eangdom 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 
Kingdom 


Leaving  in  the  United  Kingdom  

Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 
and  in  the  district  


1869. 


1870. 


Quantity. 


Cwts. 

2, 467,  817 
413,  952 


Computed 
value. 


^£2, 143, 100 
358,  758 


Quantity. 


Cwts. 
2,  370,  690 
425,  712 


2,  053,  865 
1,  647,  580 


Balance  left  for  consumption  in  other  places  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  or  for  export  next  year 


Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  imported  into  the  United 
Kingdom 

Total  quantity  and  valu(!  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 
Kingdom. . .' 


406,  285 


1,  784,  342 


1,  950,  G78 
1,  634,  800 


310,  178 


Computed 
value. 


£2,  326,  910 
416,  843 


1,  910,  067 


Quantity.     Computed 


Cwts. 
3, 454, 120 
575, 177 


Leaving  in  the  United  Kingdom 

Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 
and  in  the  district 


Balance  left  for  consumption  in  other  places  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  or  for  export  next  year 


2,  878,  943 
2,  056,  880 


822,  063 


£3,  729,  735 
050, 431 


3,  079,  304 


1872. 


Quantity.      ^^t^ 


Cwts. 
4,  041,  018 
755, 120 


3, 285,  898 
2,  543,  800 


742, 098 


£3. 954,  698 
724,  659 


3, 230,  039 


1873. 


1874. 


Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  imported  into  the  United 
Kingdom 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 
Kingdom 

Leaving  in  the  United  Kingdom 

Total  quantity  of  jute  impoiled  into  Dundee,  consumed  there 
and  in  the  district 


Balance  left  for  consumption  in  other  jdaces  of  the  United 
Kingdom,  or  for  export  next  year 


Quantity.      ^^^^^^^ 


Quantity. 


Cuts. 
4,  624,  918 
790,  344 


3,  834,  574 
2,  803,  000 


Cwts. 

£3,  019,  989  j    4,  270, 164 
649,880  i        71G,  C31 


2,  970, 109       3,  553,  533 
!     2,  347,  500 


1, 206,  C33 


Declared 
value. 


£3,  553, 179 
603,  619 


2, 949, 560 


1875. 


Qusintity. 


Declared 
value. 


Cwts. 
ToUd  quantity  and  value  of  jute  imported  into  the  United 

Kingdom I     3,416,017    £2,575,512 

Total  quantity  and  value  of  jute  exported  from  the  United 

Kingdom  1,050,389]        798,146 


Leaving  in  the  United  Kingdom  2,  306,  228       1,  777,  366 

Total  quantity  of  jute  imported  into  Dundee,  consumed  there  1 
and  in  the  district  2,278,600  j 

BaLiuw:  left  for  consumption  in  other  places  of  the  TJnited 
Kingdom,  or  for  exjiort  next  year 87, 628 


1876. 


Quantity.      ^-£-'1 


Cwts. 
3,  825, 259 
933,  667 


2,891,592 
2,  371, 420 


520, 172 


£2,  804,  597 
704,  904 


2,  099,  693 


TJ  8.  Consul  McDougalVs  Beport  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.     G35 
Quantity  and  value  of  Jute  manufactures  exported  from  the  United  Kingdom. 


Year. 


18G1 

1862 
1863 
1864 
1865 
1866 
1867 
1868 
1869 
1870 
1871 
1872 
1873 
1874 
1875 
1876 


Yarn. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

7,  047, 217 

6, 615, 882 

7,391,327 

5, 497, 603 

4, 944,  230 

7,761,391 

7,  520,  911 

8, 108, 101 

8,041,082 

12, 669, 948 

13, 710, 957 

12, 715, 989 

12,  263, 805 

15, 724,  988 

15, 942,  61S 

16,  709. 239 


Declared 
value. 


£85,126 
96, 152 
154,618 
114,  .503 
82,141 
128, 704 
117,028 
126,  045 
126, 691 
196,  465 
262,  057 
261,239 
206,  .521 
245, 784 
225, 836 
226, 813 


Manufactures. 


Quantity. 


Yards. 

6, 519, 253 

6,  959, 189 

11,034,412 

13,910,717 

15,  400,  459 

19,  394, 926 

26, 745, 187 

43,  081,  332 

50, 127, 853 

51,920,808 

62, 310,  463 

84,  452, 457 

95, 935, 108 

112,810,415 

101,105,579 

120, 813, 966 


Declared 
value. 


Bags, 


Quantity, 


£127,031 

133, 149 

243, 379 

356, 764 

311,540 

361,857 

455, 396 

706, 966 

742, 801 

789, 657 

1,  026, 759 

1, 486,  484 

1,590,850 

1,679,766 

1,404,997 

1, 5.58, 256 


Dozens. 

642, 848 

802, 095 

894. 43(i 

971,871 

1, 137, 862 

1,290,677 

1,675,321 

2, 144,  ;:93 

2,  375,  865 

2,  477,  334 
2, 897, 676 

3,  685,  092 
4, 430,  418 
4, 700, 759 
3, 680, 073 

4,  020, 211 


Declared 
value. 


£307,583 

388, 724 

555, 2S2 

749, 422 

696, 291 

681,445 

751,369 

860, 543 

946, 378 

913, 642 

1, 206, 621 

1,627,026 

1, 913, 153 

],7!'- 0,002 

1,264,308 

1,211,728 


By  far  the  largest  proportion  of  these  exports  are  manufactnred  in  Dundee 
and  district,  and  it  must  be  remembered  that  these  figures  do  not  include  the 
home-trade  consumption,  which  is  very  large  indeed. 

The  next  table  gives  an  estimate  of  the  jute  consumption  in  manufticture  in 
Dundee  alone  in  the  years  named : 

Tons. 

In  1836 300 

In  1846 • 1),  200 

In  1856 31, 000 

In  1866 50,000 

In  1873 139,  793 

The  great  expansion  of  the  jute  trade  has  benefited  the  varied  interests  of 
this  town,  the  harbor  finances  being  considerably  augmented  within  the  last  ten 
years  by  the  direct  importation  of  jute  duiing  that  period.  The  increased  rev- 
enue thus  derived  has  placed  the  Harbor-Commissioners  in  a  position  to  expend  a 
large  amount  of  money  in  making  the  docks  and  the  entrance  thereto  suitable 
for  the  entry  of  the  largest  vessels  into  this  port,  and  in  building  warehouses 
and  providing  every  facility  for  the  discharge  of  the  jute  cargoes;  in  fact,  every- 
thing has  been  done  to  encourage  this  direct  trade  with  India.  The  statement 
below  furnishes  evidence  that  the  improvements  on  the  harbor  and  the  am]>le 


()3G      TJ.  S.  Consul  McDougaWs  Iteimrt  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee. 


dock  accommodation  wliicli  has  been  opened  up  in  late  years  have  had  a  pow- 
erful influence  in  fostering  the  direct  importation  of  jute,  which  took  a  sudden 
start  in  1863,  the  effect  indubitablj^  of  the  healthy  state  of  the  trade  in  that 
year.    I  may  mention  here  that  all  the  American  vessels  that  come  into  this  port 

bring  jute  cargoes : 

Jute  vessels  arrived  in  Dundee. 


Year                                   Number  of 
^'^^^-                                  vessels. 

Registered 
tounage. 

Bales. 

I860 

1 
1 
1 

8 
15 
10 

5 
10 

5 
28 
26 
57 
77 
81 

62 
62 
63 
44 

850 

1861  

576 
576 

7,778 
12, 735 
11,489 

4,990 
11,060 

5, 960 
29. 552 
30, 317 
69, 690 
94, 450 
101,446 

77,  401 
83, 252 
87, 540 
60, 171 

1862 

1863 

1864 

1865. 

1866. 

1867 

1868 

1869 

1870 

207,208 
473, 097 
649, 677 
709, 871 

523, 197 
573, 230 
582, 249 
401, 802 

1871  

1872 

1873                            ...            

1874 

1875 

1876 

1877  (to  September  3) 

As  showing  how  much  the  harbor  revenue  has  increased  by  the  wise  policy 
referred  to  adopted  by  the  commissioners,  I  submit  this  list : 

Harbor  dues  of  Dundee,  Scotland. 

Ill  1821 £6,000 

Iul841 18,443 

Iul858 25,420 

In  1868 32,321 

In  1873. 44,000 

Iul875 45,234 

The  next  two  statements  show  the  increase  in  population  and  value  rent  of 
real  property  in  Duudee  in  the  years  given,  chiefly  the  result  of  the  great  develoj)- 
meut  of  the  jute  trade: 


Population  of  Dundee. 

Value  rent  of  real  property  in  Dundee. 

In  1801   . 
1841.. 
1661   . 
1871.. 

.     27, 396 
.     (54,629 
.     91,511 
.   118,977 

Ill  1858 £194,690 

1868 368, 734 

1873 491,151 

1875-'76 572,168 

U.  S.  Consul  McDoiKjaWs  Report  on  Oils  and  Jute  at  Dundee.     637 

The  facts  and  figures  1  liave  given  clearly  indicate  that  the  jute  trade  within 
the  last  thirty  or  forty  years  has  advanced  to  be  a  most  valuable  branch  of  in- 
dustry in  this  country,  and  also  that  this  trade  has  contributed  not  a  little  to  the 
commercial  importance  of  the  nation.  It  has  been  shown  that  the  trade  has  been 
stagnant  here  for  the  past  three  years,  but  it  is  thought  at  last  the  prospects  of 
the  trade  are  beginning  to  look  brighter  5  prices  are  better  and  firm,  inquiries 
having  been  more  active  during  the  last  month.  It  is  averred,  however,  that  this 
improvement  is  not  tangible,  but  created  by  speculation  on  the  market,  and  that 
this  fictitious  demand  will  likely  soon  pass  over  and  leave  the  business  as  lifeless 
as  before.  This  belief,  however,  is  not  universal,  as  one  small  jute  work  which 
has  been  stopped  has  been  started  again  last  week,  and  it  is  rumored  that  portions 
of  the  idle  machinery  in  the  jute  factories  that  are  working  have  been  recently 
set  agoing. 

Advices  from  America  of  the  restoration  of  mercantile  confidence  and  sound 
trade,  it  is  believed,  will  be  the  commencement  of  good  trade  for  Dundee,  seeing 
the  connection  it  has  wath  the  United  States,  and  this  is  adduced  as  a  reason  for 
setting  the  closed  works  and  idle  machinery  again  in  motion.  I  trust,  for  the 
mutual  welfare  of  both  countries,  these  hopes  may  be  fully  realized. 
I  am,  sir,  your  obedient  servant, 

MATTHEW  McDOUGALL, 

Consul. 

Hon.  F.  W.  Seward, 

Assistant  Secretary  of  State,  Washington,  D.  G. 


INDEX. 


Agloo,  seal,  137, 151, 152, 169. 

Ag-loo-ka  (Crozier),  108,  255,  257,  397,  40(5,  415, 
420, 589-594,  (50G. 

Ak-koo-lee  (Committee  Bay),  sea  of,  252,  204, 
310, 383. 

Allen,  William.  Letter  to  Thomas  Penn  for  tlie 
Philadelphia  Arctic  Exploration  of  17.52,  xli, 
xlii. 

American  Expeditions  for  the  Northwest  Pas- 
sage, xxxix-xlv ;  for  the  relief  of  Franklin, 
xiii,  xxxi,  xxxiv. 

Amherst  Island  visited,  349. 

Amitoke,  Hall's  visit  to,  299. 

Amusements,  Innnit,  95, 9G,  218. 

Angell,  B.,  invites  Hall  to  lecture,  24. 

Anikcoting  practiced,  G3, 82,  92, 101, 102, 112, 117, 
144, 188, 242-244, 248, 2(;0, 282,  303,  363, 591, 
601. 

Andromeda  Tetragona,  65,  178,  426. 

Antoinc  hired  by  Hall,  325 ;  discharged,  362. 

Anthony,  Hon.  H.  B.,  invites  Hall  to  lectiare,  24. 

Ar-cla,  a  strange  animal  reported,  105. 

Ai-ctic  authorities.     Tables  of  1818-1860,  xlvi-1. 

Argo,  the  voyages  of,  in  1753  and  1754,  xxxix- 
xliii. 

Ar-mou,  63,  64,  84,  99, 105,  142,  208,  214,  224  ;  his 
map,  225;  238. 

Ar-too-a,  63,  86,  99, 101,  105, 156,  167;  his  death, 
215. 

Ar-tung-un,  301;  hung  by  his  son,  365;  conver- 
sations with,  598-605. 

Ar-row-tars,  135. 

Augusta  Island,  388. 

Auroras,  83,  131,  107,  204,229-233,306. 

Bache,  A.  D.,  Superintendent  U.  S.  Coast  Sur- 
vey.    Letter  to  Hall  (|uoted,  35;  41. 
Baffin's,  W.,  discoveries  discredited,  xxxviii. 


Baker,  Captain,  319. 

Barrow,  Sir  John,  ou  the  value  of  Arctic  ex- 
plorations, xxxvi. 

Barrow's,  Mr.  John,  letter  to  Hall,  13. 

Bayne,  Peter,  hired  by  Hall,  314;  325. 

Bartlett,  Hon.  J.  R.,  invites  Hall  to  lecture,  24. 

Beacon  Hill,  records  deposited  at,  237,  268, 280, 
287,  318,  325,  424. 

Bears,  Polar,  captured,  50-55,  70  ;  tracks  of,  89, 
157  ;  Ou-c  la's  stories  of,  104, 142;  traditional 
story  of,  240;  shot  by  Joe  and  Hall  ou 
Whale  Point,  430. 

Becher,  A.  B.,  Commander,  R.  N.,  lettei",  11,13. 

Beekman,  J.  W.,  assists  Hall,  41. 

Biglow,  John,  assists  Hall,  38. 

Bishop,    Hon.   R.   M.,  indorses   Hall's  appeal, 

XXV. 

Bliss  &  Co.  assist  Hall,  41. 

Blunt,  Messrs.,  assist  Hall,  41. 

Bolby,  Mr.  John,  takes  Joe  and  Hannah  to 
England,  443. 

Boston,  reported  voyage  from,  for  Northwest 
Passage  in  1639,  xliv. 

Brcvoort,  J.  C,  loans  his  correspondence  with 
Hall,  xii ;  loans  Hall  his  books,  14 ;  assists 
Hall,  41 ;  estimate  of  Hall's  character,  432. 

Brevoort  River,  342. 

Bryan,  R.  W.  D.,  Assistant  in  preparation  of 
the  Narrative ;  iirepai'es  Hall's  astronomical 
observations,  63,  452  ;  prepares  Hall's  mete- 
orological journal,  479. 

Budington,  Capt.  James,  rescues  the  Resolute, 

XXX. 

Budington,  Capt.  S.  O.,  takes  charge  of  Ebier- 
bing  and  Too-koo-li-too,  4  ;  encourages  Hall, 
27 ;  brings  Kud-lup-pa-mu-nc  and  Ou-se-gang 
to  the  United  States,  447. 

Burr,  A.  W..  assists  Hall.  11. 

G39 


640 


INDEX. 


Capo  i:iijTl("ficl(l,  348,  349. 

Cape  Frigid,  2(t7. 

Capo  Fullcrton,  13o. 

Cape  Lady  Felly.  252, 2(52, 2C4,  316,  383. 

Cape  Weynton,  2.'^5, 2G1,  313, 318,  384, 411. 

Chapell,  R.  H.,  of  New  London,  receives  Hall's 

plans,  28;   letter  to  Hall  on  whaling,  34; 

gives  free  passage  on  board  tlio  Monticello, 

42. 
Chapel,  Capt.  C.  A.,  commands  th<'  Monticello, 

43;  Hall's  letter  to,  61,  76,107,  ll.J;  letter 

to  Hall,  lid. 
Chapel,  Capt.  H.    Y.,  conveys  Hall  to  "Whale 

Point,  59. 
Chase,     Hon.    S.    I'.,    indorses    Hall's    appeal, 

XXV. 

Chester,  H.  C,  mate  of  the  Monticello,  50; 
lands  Hall  at  Whale  Point,  r>9. 

Christie  Lake,  241,  267,  315, 380. 

Chronometers,  41,  142, 238,  279, 366  ;  correction 
of,  330-382 ;  3S5. 

Cliff  at  Now-yarn  Harbor,  tradition  in  regard 
to,  222. 

Coast  Survey,  U.  S.,  loans  a  sextant  and  dip- 
circle,  41. 

Colden,  Cadwalader,  letter  from  Dr.  Franklin 
for  the  Argo,  1753,  xxxix. 

Cold  intense,  108,  110,  127, 131, 140, 144,  146,  148, 
150,  157,  161,  207,  295. 

Coleman,  Pat,  hired,  325 ;  shot  by  Hall,  360. 

Collinson,  Admiral  R.,  R.  N.,  his  "Three  Voy- 
ages of  Frobisher,"  12. 

Congress  of  U.  S.  purchase  Hall's  manuscripts, 
xi. 

Cooper,  Peter,  assists  Hall,  41. 

Copp,  J.  J.,  of  Groton,  10,  445,  448;  presents 
Hall's  geological  collections  to  Amherst  Col- 
lego,  454. 

Cracroft,  Miss  Sophia,  receives  a  Franklin  relic 
from  Morison  &  Brown,  N.  Y.,  in  1878,  xxiii ; 
returns  books  loaned  by  Hall  to  Lady  Frank- 
lin, 587. 

Crane,  William,  jr.,  his  visit  to  Hall  from  the 
Era,  1867,  433. 

Crozier,  Capt.  F.  R.  M.  (Ag-loo-ka),  R.  N.,  xiv, 
xxviii,  xxxiii,  xxxiv,  108,255-257,397,406, 
415,  420,  589-.594,  606. 

Crozier  River  visited,  'Ml. 

Cud-lar-fjo'n  tombstone  at  Groton,  446. 

Dall,  W.  H..  his  apjdiratiou  of  the  terms  lu- 
niiilfi,  Eskimo.*",  and  Orarians,  62,  448. 


Daly,  Judge  C.  P.,  president  American  Geo- 
graphical Society,  states  the  results  of  ex- 
plorations for  Northwest  Passage,  xxxiii ; 
assists  Hall,  37;  letter  to,  from  Hall,  367. 

Debris  and  rocks  on  the  ice,  Hall's  observations 
of,  compared  with  Parry's,  193-198. 

De  Haven,  Lieutenant,  U.  S.  N.,  expedition,  xiii, 

XXX. 

Dennison,  Hon.  W.,  indorses  Hall's  appeal, xxv. 

Depot  Island,  56. 

Diligence,    the  voyage  of,    from    Virginia  for 

Northwest  Passage  in  1772,  xliv. 
Dillon,  Capt.  P.,   presents  La  Perouse's  relics 

to  Charles  X,  5. 
Dogs,  Eskimo,  63,  86,  115,  122, 136,  163, 173, 184, 

209,  226,  239,  247,  250,  251,  253, 254,  279,  295, 

299,  307,  336,  357,  379,  413. 
Donations,  list   of,  ackn'jwledgcd  by  Hall  be- 
fore sailing  in  1864,  44. 
Ducks,  the  Innuit  plan  to  capture,  103  ;  largo 

flocks,  133,  351. 
Dyer,  E.,  ex-governor  of  Rhode  Island,  invites 

Hall  to  lecture,  24. 

Earthquake,  supposed,  144. 

Ebierbing  (Joe)  returns  with  Hall  from  his  first 
expedition,  4 ;  sails  from  New  London,  42  ; 
shoots  two  polar  bears,  51-53;  meets  the 
Innuits,  62 ;  builds  Hall's  igloo,  72 ;  shaves 
Hall,  75;  is  aukooted,  82,  92 ;  kills  a  walrus, 
103  ;  shoots  a  seal,  129,  145  ;  makes  a  speech, 
149 ;  kills  a  walrus,  151 ;  watches  over  a 
seal-hole,  154  ;  kills  a  seal  and  walrus,  156 ; 
chases  a  bear,  157  ;  shoots  an  ook-gook,  161  ; 
snow-blind,  172;  hunts  with  Hall,  202;  goes 
with  Hall  to  Colvile  Bay,  237;  rewards  the 
angeko,  248 ;  buries  his  child,  265 ;  hunts 
the  deer,  286 ;  goes  with  Hall  to  Cape  Weyn- 
ton, 314;  to  Melville  Peninsula,  335;  digs 
for  the  cache,  344  ;  goes  toward  King  Will- 
iam's Land,  378  ;  shoots  a  bear,  42'J ;  notes 
of  his  life,  441-446. 

Eek-oo-ar-choo  (Jerry),  3:'.2,  378,  408. 

Eider-ducks,  Hocks  of,  in  the  Welcome,  133,  151. 

Eggaet  &  Son  assist  Hall,  41. 

Egleston,  T.,  report  on  Hall's  geological  collec- 
tions, 10. 

Emerson,  Prof  B.  K.,  Amherst  College,  discus- 
sion of  Hall's  geological  collection,  10;  Ap- 
pendix III,  .553-.583. 

E-uook-shoo-lik.  oncampment  at,  274,279. 

Ermine,  343. 


INDEX. 


(J41 


^•fc-to-a's  superstition,  110;  tradition  of  Oo-oo- 
took  on  Parry's  slii]),  112. 

E-vit-shuny  boats  tlic  dogs,  18;{ ;  consults  "  Sid- 
ney" for  tlu!  safety  of  her  children,  188. 

Explorations  I'or  the  North-svcst  Passage,  lables 
of  English  and  American,  xxvi-xxviii;  for 
the  relief  of  Franklin,  xxix-xxxii;  results, 
xxxiii,  xxxviii. 

Feasts,  lunnit,  80,  90,  129,  214,  216,  369,  425,  428. 

Field,  C.  W.,  Hall's  telegram  to,  4  ;  assists  Hall, 
41. 

Fisher,  Captain,  428. 

Floats  used  by  Ou-e-la  iu  capturing  a  whale,  191. 

"  Fool's  gold,"  Frobisher,  18. 

Fox,  Arctic,  caught  in  his  own  trap,  88,  374. 

Fox  Channel,  Oong-er-luk^s  sketch  of,  354. 

Fort  Hope  of  Dr.  Eae,  Hall  arrives  at,  192 ;  212, 
223,  226. 

Franklin,  Sir  John,  voj^age  in  the  Trent,  xxvi  ; 
laud  expeditions,  xxvii ;  expedition  of  1845, 
xxviii ;  death  on  the  Erebus,  (McClintock's 
record, )  xxxiii ;  relics  of,  xxiii ;  monument 
iu  Waterloo  Place,  xxxiii  ;  in  Westminster 
Abbey,  xxxiv. 

Franklin,  Lady,  desires  Hall  to  go  a  third  time 
for  the  records,  xvi ;  correspondence  with 
Hall  throiigh  Mr.  Grinnell  in  1869,  xvii-xxiii ; 
in  1865,283;  monument  erected  by  her  in 
Westminster  Abbey,  xxxiv. 

Franklin,  Dr.  Benjamin,  letter  to  Cadwallader 
Colden  on  the  expedition  of  1753  in  the 
Argo,  xxxix. 

Frobisher,  Sir  Martin,  sails  to  discover  North- 
west Passage,  7  ;  Hall's  abstract  of  his  voy- 
ages, 15-17 ;  narrative  of  his  voyages  by 
Collinsou,  12. 

Frozen  Strait  of  Middleton  thought  by  Hall  to 
be  never  frozen,  185. 

Furs,  selection  of,  by  the  women  first,  69. 

Fury  and  Hecla  Strait  visited,  331-353. 

Gales,  66,  79,  94,  127,  131,  136,  145, 150, 161, 176, 
206, 238,  314,  324, 337, 379. 

Game  abundant,  178  ;  on  the  journey  from  King 
William's  Land,  412. 

Geographical  Society,  American,  Hall's  paper 
read  before,  8;  letter  to  the  President  of, 
367. 

Geographical  Society,  Royal,  of  London,  re- 
ceives relics  from  Hall,  10 ;  paper  read  be- 
fore, 13. 

Geological  collections  from  Hall's  first  expedi- 
S.  Ex.  27 41 


Geological  collections— Continued. 

tion  donated  to  New  York  Lyceum,  reported 

•  upon  by  Stevens  and  Egleston,  10;  donated 
to  Amherst  College  and  discussed  by  Pro- 
fessor Enjcrson,  Appendix  III. 

Gift'ord  Eiver  visited,  352. 

Greenwood,  Miles,  receives  a  telegram  from 
Hall,  4. 

Grinnell,  H.,  loans  his  correspondence,  xii ;  let- 
ter from  Lady  Franklin,  xvii-xxi ;  from 
Hall,  xxi ;  his  expeditious  under  De  Haven 
and  Kane,  XXX,  xxxi ;  states  the  value  of 
Arctic  explorations,  xxxvii ;  telegram  from 
Hall,  4;  interview  with  Hall,  26-28;  sends 
supplies  to  him,  42, 283,  327. 

Grinnell  Lake,  342,  395. 

Groton,  Conn.,  burial-place  of  Eskimos,  447. 

Hall,  Charles  Francis,  his  three  expeditious,  xi ; 
purchase  of  his  manuscripts  by  the  Navy 
Department,  xi ;  resolution  of  U.  S.  Senate, 
xii;  his  expeditious  compared,  xiii;  mo- 
tives for  the  first  two  expeditions,  xvi ;  let- 
ter from  Lady  Franklin  to  Mr.  Grinnell, 
xvii-xxi;  reijfies,  xxi-xxiii;  appeal  and 
lecture,  1860,  xxiv  ;  notes  of  early  voyages, 
xxxix-xlv ;  his  Arctic  authorities,  xlvi-1. 

Eeturns  from  his  first  expedition,  4 ;  pro- 
poses to  visit  England,  5 ;  abstract  of  La 
Perouse's  voyage,  5,  6 ;  again  studies  Arctic 
authorities,  8;  reads  a  paper  before  the 
American  Geographical  Society,  New  York. 
8 ;  sends  Frobisher  relics  to  England,  8 ;  cor- 
responds with  Barrow,  Becher,  and  Mark- 
ham,  11 ;  his  paper  read  at  a  meeting  of  the 
Eoyal  Geographical  Society,  London,  13; 
abstract  of  the  Frobisher  expeditions,  15-17. 

Lectures  for  his  second  expedition,  23-25 ; 
asks  aid  from  Congress,  25 ;  interview  with 
Mr.  Hem-y  Grinutil,  26;  private  notes,  26; 
plans  submitted  to  Grinnell  and  Chapell, 
28-32;  correspondence  about  whaling,  34; 
letter  to  Professor  Bache,  35 ;  defers  his  voy- 
age, 38;  renews  his  appeal,  39;  receives  aid, 
41 ;  sails  from  New  London,  42. 

Sails  from  St.  John's,  48  ;  aids  in  captur- 
ing two  polar  bears,  50-54 ;  lands  at  Depot 
Island,  56;  hires  Riulolph,  57;  arrives  at 
Whale  Point,  59;  makes  a  cache,  60;  meets 
the  lunuits,  62 ;  second  encampment,  63 ; 
talks  with  natives  about  l"^-ankliu,  64  ;  re- 
lieves the  suft'ering,  66, 80  ;  moves  his  tupik, 
67  ;  goes  into  winter  quarters,  75. 


642 


1>'DEX. 


Hall,  Charles  Franeis — Continned. 

Proposes  his  plans  to  the  people.  61 :  ac- 
eusioms  himselt  to  Innnii  custrans  and  food. 
82 :  builds  a  magnetic  observatory.  ?4 :  finds 
hisinknozen,  so:  makes  his  nist  sledge  trips 
with  the  Innnirs,  ?6.  S9, 133 :  joins  ui  their 
feasts.  ^»,  90. 1-29. 4-JS.  432 :  htmts  a  seal,  93 : 
moves  to  the  walms  groiuids.  ICO;  is  an- 
kooted.  1G»2 :  discharges  Rudolph.  1C6 :  cor- 
rects his  dates,  114 :  lener  to  Capt.  E.  A. 
Chapel.  ItC :  receives  supplies  fiton  the 
whalers.  115,  325:  joins  in  a  walms-hnnt, 
119-123. 

Speech  on  Xew  Tear's  Day,  130;  vims 
the  MonticeHo,  132 :  experiments  with  freez- 
ing mereuxy.  146:  writes  widi  great  diffi- 
culty, 146,  150;  goes  out  sealing,  152:  suf- 
fers for  food.  155 ;  renew^s  his  supplies,  156 : 
proposes  to  survey  the  ccast.  15>5:  broken 
health.  159 :  arrives  at  the  Wager.  164. 

Harpoons  a  seal,  16S:  arrives  at  Be- 
pulse  Bay.  1T7:  visits  the  whaler  Black 
Eagle.  151;  the  Ansel  Gibbs,  169:  capt- 
ures a  whale.  I'i*' :  en  imps  at  Fon  Hope, 
192:  his  note?  round  on  the  ice, 

193-195. 

Hunts  the  deer,  202:  severe  exposures, 
2C4-2C0;  his  daily  subastence,  211;  pre- 
pares fur  clothing.  213 ;  dresses  entirely  in 
furs, 213:  builds  his  own  igk-o.^li:  life  at 
yow-yam.  216-221 :  returns  to  Fort  Hope, 
223:  his  control  of  Ar-mom  and  of  the  Iit- 
nuits,  224, 432:  meteorological  notes  during 
the  winter,  2i?7-23L 

First  advanc-e  toward  King  William's 
Land-iT:  depc^atshis  records,  241:  arrives 
at  the  Sea  of  Ak-koo-lee,  ".BS :  meets  PeDy 
Bay  m»i,  255 :  returns  to  Bepulse  Bay.  261 ; 
buries  Too-koo-li-toas  babe,  266;  journal 
entry  on  his  return,  268. 

Determines  to  hire  white  men  for  a  sec- 
ond advance,  26C»-2T4 :  meets  PeDy  Bay  men 
again .  2T5 :  further  i»ews  of  Franklin's  party, 
•iT6 :  annoyances,  2T7  ;  begins  survey  of  Be- 
pulse Bay.  279 :  visits  the  Pioneer  and  An- 
sell  Gibbs,  261 :  assists  the  whalers,  265 : 
asks  their  help  for  men  and  dogs,  25o ;  pre- 
(tares  and  shijs  his  whalebone,  2S7 :  en- 
camps near  the  ships,  269 :  is  refused  a  team 
of  dogs,  290. 

Begins  a  journey  to  Ig-loo-hk.  295:  suffer- 
ings. 297--^«' •  i."vi  -1  T.-f4ni.9>>:  arrives  at 


HalL  Charles  Francis — ContinuetL 

Repulse  Bay,  3l^:  is  refiised  leave  to  hire 
men,  3l^. 

Visits  his  cache  at  Cape  Weynton,  313; 
makes  a  new  c-ache,  316 :  goes  on  a  musk-ox 
hunt.  319 :  makes  purchases  fiom  the  whalers, 
323:  goes  into  winter  quarters,  325:  hires 
five  white  men,  326. 

Journey  to  the  Strait  of  Fury  and  Het.  . 
336 :  arrives  on  the  northwest  side  of  Mel- 
ville Peninsula,  ^2 :  discovers  a  new  isla  n  >i . 
^5 :  finds  a  monument  and  a  tenting-pl. 
of  white  men.  344-346 :  visits  Amherst  I  - 
and.  ^49 :  Gifford  Eiver.  352 :  returns  to  I. 
pulse  Bay.  356:  shoots  a  mutineer.  36^3 :  w:- 
cttre*  a  whale,  363 ;  journey  to  Lyon's  Inlet, 
364 :  winter  quarters  at  Talloon,  366 :  pre- 
pares penmucan  and  ammunition  for  a  final 
sledge  journey.  371. 

Final  journey  to  King  William's  Land, 
379 :  arrives  at  Cape  Weynton,  364 :  at  Au- 
gusta Island,  366  :  at  Simpson's  Lake,  394 ; 
at  Todd's  Island.  4».0 :  discovers  the  remains 
of  some  of  Franklin's  men.  4'I'1— 1C<3 ;  returns 
to  Repulse  Bay.  4»S:  goes  on  a  musk-ox 
hxmt.  413 :  writes  \o  Mr.  Grianell  the  results 
of  his  jotimey  to  King  William's  Land.  415; 
recovers  his  whalebone  nom  the  cache.  427 ; 
leaves  Repulse  Bay.  426 :  hunts  the  bestr  at 
Whale  Point,  -t29 ;  lands  at  Xew  Bedford, 
430 ;  tributes  to  his  work,  431—437  :  astro- 
nomical observations.  451—175 :  meterologi- 
cal  observations,  479-c5'I»:  conversations 
with  Innuits.  567-Gll. 

Harper  Brothers  assist  Hall.  44 :  send  the  -'Ar  - 
tic  Researches"  to  Repulse  Bay.  263. 

Hayes,  Hon.  R.  B.,  indorses  Hall's  appeal,  xxv. 

Haviland  Bay,  encamped  on,  187 ;  crossed.  X  " 
357,364. 

Herald,  the  New  York.  Hall  writes  to,  156. 

Hooper  Inlet  viaied,  341. 342. 

Hoppner  Inlet  viated.  3-57. 

Igloo,  e<Histmcti4»  oC  72 :  Hall's  first,  75 :  lamp, 
75 :  village,  126 :  built  on  sledge  journey, 
134:  Hall's,  at  Xow-yam,  214 :  feasting,  220. 

Ig-loo-lik,  Hall's  jotimey  to,  296-301. 

Im-moot-poo-zhee-Joot'i  account  of  Franklin's  men. 
397 :  map  of  King  William's  Land.  396 :  fiir- 
ther  account  of  Franklin's  men,  408;  fight 
with  a  mnsk-ox.  413 :  interview  with  Hall, 
419,  (J^ 


INDEX. 


643 


Innuits,  light  use  of  (lie  teiiu,G2;  first  met,  t/J; 
division  of  furs,  69 ;  feasts,  80, 90,  309  ;  prep- 
aration of  fnr  (Tresses,  91 ;  auuisemeuts,  95, 
218,  369;  superstitions,  ,110, 277,  282,  286, 
322;  conversations  with,  64,  108;  orna- 
ments, 219  ;  Hall's  control  of,  22'),  277,  432. 

Iwillik,  04, 95, 227,  324,  364,  369,  424. 

Journal  of  Commerce,  Hall's  letters  to,  156,  587. 
Jeflfries,  Captain  of  the  George  and  Mary,  115. 

Kane,  Dr.,  Aoyage  S.,  xxx,xxxi. 
Key-low-tik,  playing  on,  96, 129. 
Ki-as  or  kyaks  of  Repulse  Bay  compared  witli 

those  of  Greenland,  216. 
Kilmer,  Captain,  65,189,285,319. 
King  "William's  Land  (Ei-ki-tuk),  first  advance 

to,  237 ;  return  from,  261 ;  sledge  journey  to, 

377;  return,  409. 
Kin-ua-pa-toos,  171 ;  their  dogs,  239. 
Knight  and  Barlow,  expedition  of,  56. 
Kobbig  and  Tiing-nuk's  Franklin  relics,  391. 
Koo-loo-a  takes  Hall  to  the  cache  on  Melville 

Peninsula,   341;    his  report   of  the   white 

men,  596. 
Eok-lee-arng-nun's  relics  and  stories  of  Frank- 
lin's men,  255;  hung  by  his  son,  277. 
Kom-motig  (half  tents),  169, 171, 174. 
£ow  (walrus  hide),  136, 389 ;  sled  made  of,  305, 

307,  .309. 

Leonard  or  Lailor,  Frank,  xxii,  295,  314,  319, 

325,  336,  345,  362. 
La  Perouse,  expedition  of,  5. 
Leach,  U.  S.  Consul,  assists  Hall,  47. 
Lefferts  Marshall  assists  Hall,  41. 
Lightning  and  thunder  storm,  181 ;  Innuit  no- 
tions of,  182, 187. 
Lyon's  Inlet,  journey  to,  364. 

Mam-mark,  128,  228,  245;  death,  321. 

Man-line  (rue-raddies),  246,  373. 

Marble  Island,  55, 59, 139, 143. 

Markham,  C.  E.,  on  the  use  of  oil  in  the  manu- 
facture of  jute,  618. 

Marmots  (Sixies),  263, 412. 

McClintock,  Sir  Leopold  F.,  brings  the  Frank- 
lin Record  from  Point  Victory,  xxxiii ;  let- 
ter in  regard  to  Arctic  explorations,  xxxiv. 

McDougall,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Dundee ;  report  of 
the  whale  fishery  and  jute,  Appendix  V, 
619. 

Mercury,  experiments  with,  146. 


Meteorological  .Journal,  Appendix  II,  479-543; 

.special  observations,  94,  227-231,366. 
Mouticello  sails  from  New  London,  42  ;  from  St. 

John's,  48;  passage  throjigh  Hudson  Straits, 

r.5. 

Monument  found  by  HaU,  with  tenting-place, 

on  Melville  Peninsula,  344-347. 
Morgan,  Captain,  283,285. 
Morison  &  Brown,  expedition  for  the  FrankUn 

Records,  xxiii. 
Mosquitoes,  75,  322,  426. 
Muktuk  relished  by  Hall,  72,  81,  214, 225,  314. 
Murchison  River,  395. 
Musk  oxen,  76, 86,  319,  413. 

Nares,  Sir  George,  on  Hall's  observations. 
Navy  Department  purchase  Hall's  manuscripts, 

xi. 
Negus  &  Co.  assist  Hall,  41. 
Newton,  Prof.  R.  S.,  M.  D.,  assists  Hall,  41. 
New  London,  Hall  sails  from,  xiii,  42. 
New  Year's  Day  feast  and  speech,  128. 
Noodloo's  sketch  of  Murray  Maxwell  Inlet,  351. 
Noo-wook,  63, 142. 
Nordenskiold's  coast-line,  xxxix. 
Norton,  Silas,  314. 

Norman  and  Neebarbic  Creeks  visited,  365. 
North  Pole  River  and  Lake,  192, 279. 
Nordhotf,  C,  assists  Hall  while  preparing  hia 

''Arctic  Researches,"  44. 
Now-yarn,  214, 221. 
Nur-ker-zhoo  (Jack),  63, 105, 152, 168, 378, 394, 421. 

Oog-la-ri-your  Island,  camped  on,  179, 221, 280. 

Oo-glit  Islands,  299,  338,  350. 

Oo-oo-took  on  Parry's  ship,  112. 

Ook-gook  caught,  161, 181 ;  lines  made  from,  181. 

Ook-joo-Uk  (O'Reilly  Island),  257,  400,  418. 

Oon-ger- Ink's  sketch  of  Fox  Channel,  354 ;  of  Ad- 
miralty Iidet,  356. 

Osbom,  Admiral  Sherard,  the  value  of  Arctic 
exploration,  xxxvi. 

Ook-bar-loo,  65,  67, 590, 592, 594. 

Ook-bar-loo  (the  son),  99. 

Ok-pas,  49. 

Orarians,  use  of  the  term,  62. 

Ou-lig-buck,  66. 

Ou-e-la,  the  chief  of  the  tribe,  62, 86, 99, 103, 104, 
105,  118,  138,  142,  160,  162,  167, 170, 178, 190, 
225;  his  map,  278;  300,309,378,394,432. 

Fapa-tew-a  goes  with  Hall  to  Melville  Penin- 
sula, 336;  sketch  of  Lyon's  Inlet,  364 ;  of 
Pond's  Bav,  370. 


G44 


INDEX. 


Parlielia,208,242. 

Parry's  llag-staft",  place  of,  visited,  305. 
Pem'rEiver,4Ul. 
Peto,  the,  295. 
Petnlarks,49. 

Pelly  Bay  natives'  accounts  of  Frankliu,  255; 
frighten  Hall's  party,  260. 
Pemmican,  Hall's,  372;  Dr.  Richardson's,  372. 
Pingit-ka-lik,  307. 

Pitil-ton-yet;  heights  of,  280;  monuments,  281. 
Pike  &  Son  assist  Hall,  41. 
Poillon,  Messrs.,  assist  Hall,  37. 
Ptarmigan,  71, 76, 210,  341,  412. 
I'tnuia  (Sylvia),  378,  445,  447. 

Quilliam  Creek,  341. 

Rae,  Dr.  John,  confirms  Hall's  statements,  13. 

Rain-storms,  182, 187,  321. 

Refraction,  179, 207. 

Reindeer  (iulc-too),  63, 70, 76,.87, 172, 178, 181, 204, 

251,286,319,327,341,413. 
Repulse  Bay,  arrives  at,  171. 
Ross  Bay,  296. 

Robinson,  Captain,  assists  Hall,  37. 
Rodman,  Maj.  AV.  M.,  invites  Hall  to  lecture,  24. 
Rogers,  Captain,  assists  Hall,  115. 

Salmon,  164, 210, 342,  358, 424. 
Sargent,  Hon.  A.  A. ;  resolution  in  theU.  S.  Sen- 
ate to  prepare  a  Narrative  of  Hall's  Second 

Expedition,  xii. 
Saxifrage,  the,  178,  426. 
Sclnvatka,  Lieutenant,  U.  S.  A.,  goes  out  for  the 

Franklin  records,  xxiii. 
Seals,  49,  90,  93,  145,  149,  152,  156,  160,  161,  1G8, 

170, 171, 172, 279,  303,  3.52,  396. 
/S'ee-j;tt»</-er,  careless  Avith  his  gun,  274;  story  of 

the  mouunieut,  276. 
Sears,  President  of  Brown  University,  invites 

Hall  to  lecture,  24. 
Ships  Harbor  Islands,  survey  by  Hall,  321. 
Shoo-nhe-ark-nook,  67, 144;  death  of,  186. 
Silliman,  Professor,  invites  Hall  to  lecture,  24. 
Simpson's  Lake,  394. 
Sledge  journeys,  85, 89, 105, 132, 239, 279, 293, 314, 

336,  :W4, 378. 


Sleds,  E.skimo,  85, 220,  379. 

Smith,  Governor  J.  Y. ,  invites  Hall  to  lecture,  24. 

Snow-drifts,  apjiearance  of,  compared  with  the 

aurora,  72;  difficulty  in  determining  their 

average  depth,  227. 
Spermin.  J.  S.,  325. 
St.  John's,  N.  F.,  sailed  from,  48. 
Stackpole  &  Bro.  assist  Hall,  41. 
Stephenson,  Capt.  R.  N.,  visits  Hall's  grave, 

437. 
Storrs,  Dr.  R.,  luAites  Hall  to  lecture,  39. 
Stevens,  I.  A.,  assists  Hall,  41. 
Stevens,  R.  P.,  report  on  geological  collections, 

10, 553. 
Starvation  driven  off,  149, 1.56. 

Tagliabue  &  Co.  assist  Hall,  41. 

Talloon,  357,  364,  368, 423, 426. 

Tern  Island  \asited,  303. 

Temperatures,  79,  82,  86,  94,  103,  116,  127,  131, 

137,  140,  146,  150,  156,  161,207,267,298,322, 

410, 425. 
Tides  in  the  Welcome,  162. 
Time,  how  to  determine,  at  the  Pole,  141. 
Tu-lcee-li-Jie-ta,  10, 447. 
Too-koo-li-too.     (See  Ebierbing.) 
Todd's  Island  visited,  400. 
Tupihs  (skin  tents),  65, 69. 
Tyson,  Capt.  G.  E.,  of  the  Antelope,  115;  of  the 

Era,  1867, 323. 

Victoria  Queen,  Hall  desires  to  present  the 
Frobislier  relics  to,  7;  Hannah  and  Joe  pre- 
sented to,  443. 

Voyages,  early  American,  for  the  Northwest  Pas- 
sage, xxxix-xlv. 

Wager,  the,  encamped  on,  l64. 
Walrus,  50,  76, 103, 118, 151, 1.56,  325- 
W^ard,  Augustus,  gives  Hall  a  chronometer,  41. 
Welcome,  Rowe's,  61 ;  tides  in,  162. 
Whales,  65, 190, 286, 363, 428. 
White,  Captain,  of  the  Black  Eagle,  115. 
Wolves  attack  dogs,  247;  tradition  of  taming, 
239;  290,341. 


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